Ben Saunders: Three things to know before you ski to the North Pole

56,889 views ・ 2007-01-12

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翻译人员: Xiaochi Zhou 校对人员: Xiaoqiao Xie
00:26
This is me. My name is Ben Saunders.
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这就是我。我叫本·桑德斯。
00:27
I specialize in dragging heavy things
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我特别擅长在寒冷的地方
00:29
around cold places.
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拖行重物。
00:31
On May 11th last year,
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去年5月11日,
00:33
I stood alone at the North geographic Pole.
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我独自一人站在北极点上。
00:36
I was the only human being in an area
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在那片有一个半美国大的大地上,
00:38
one-and-a-half times the size of America,
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在那片5500平方英里的地方,
00:40
five-and-a-half thousand square miles.
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我是唯一的人类。
00:42
More than 2,000 people have climbed Everest.
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有2000多人登上过珠穆朗玛峰。
00:44
12 people have stood on the moon.
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有12个人曾站立在月球上。
00:46
Including me, only four people
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而包括我在内,只有4个人
00:48
have skied solo to the North Pole.
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曾独自一人滑雪去北极。
00:51
And I think the reason for that --
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而我认为这是因为 --
00:53
(Applause)
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(鼓掌)
00:57
-- thank you -- I think the reason for that is that it's -- it's --
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-- 谢谢 -- 我认为这是因为 --
00:59
well, it's as Chris said, bonkers.
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就像克里斯说的那样,犯傻 。(笑声)
01:01
It's a journey that is right at the limit
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这是一段考验人类极限的
01:04
of human capability.
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旅程。
01:06
I skied the equivalent of 31 marathons
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我滑的距离相当于31个马拉松来回,
01:08
back to back. 800 miles in 10 weeks.
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10周滑了800英里。
01:11
And I was dragging all the food I needed,
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我拖着所有所需的食物,
01:13
the supplies, the equipment, sleeping bag,
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日用品,装备,睡袋,
01:15
one change of underwear -- everything I needed for nearly three months.
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和一套换洗的内衣——这些是我在三个月的必需品
01:18
(Laughter)
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(笑声)
01:21
What we're going to try and do today, in the 16 and a bit minutes I've got left,
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而在剩下的16分钟多一点的时间里,我们要做的,
01:24
is to try and answer three questions. The first one is, why?
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就是尝试回答三个问题。第一个:为什么?
01:27
The second one is,
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第二个:
01:29
how do you go to the loo at minus 40?
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你怎样在零下40度的条件下上厕所。
01:31
"Ben, I've read somewhere that at minus 40,
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“本,我知道在零下四十度的时候,
01:34
exposed skin becomes frostbitten in less than a minute, so how do you answer the call of nature?"
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暴露的皮肤会在一分钟内冻伤,所以你是怎么解决内急的?”
01:37
I don't want to answer these now. I'll come on to them at the end.
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我现在先不回答这个问题,等到最后再告诉你们。
01:40
Third one: how do you top that? What's next?
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第三个:你是怎样完成的?下一项挑战是什么?
01:44
It all started back in 2001.
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这都要追溯的2001年的时候。
01:46
My first expedition was with a guy called Pen Hadow -- enormously experienced chap.
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我第一次探险是和一个叫朋·哈道的人,他极富经验。
01:49
This was like my polar apprenticeship.
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当时,我在他身边就像学徒。
01:52
We were trying to ski from this group of islands up here,
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我们想从这里——
01:55
Severnaya Zemlya, to the North Pole.
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北地群岛(俄罗斯北部群岛)滑到北极。
01:57
And the thing that fascinates me about the North Pole,
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而北极,地理上的北极点,最令我着迷的是
01:59
geographic North Pole, is that it's slap bang in the middle of the sea.
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它正好就在北冰洋的正中央。
02:02
This is about as good as maps get,
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就好像地图那样精确,
02:04
and to reach it you've got to ski literally
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而要到那,你就得真的滑过
02:06
over the frozen crust,
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那冰冻的雪壳,
02:08
the floating skin of ice on the Artic Ocean.
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北冰洋上漂浮着的冰层。
02:11
I'd spoken to all the experts.
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我咨询过许多专家,
02:13
I'd read lots of books. I studied maps and charts.
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也读过大量的书籍,研究了地图和图表。
02:15
But I realized on the morning of day one
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但在第一天早上
02:17
that I had no idea exactly
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我对我自己到底陷入了一个什么样的境地,
02:19
what I'd let myself in for.
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毫不知晓。
02:21
I was 23 years old. No one my age
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我当时23岁。我的同龄人
02:23
had attempted anything like this,
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都不曾尝试过这样的挑战,
02:25
and pretty quickly, almost everything
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而且很快,
02:27
that could have gone wrong did go wrong.
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几乎所有可能出错的事都出错了。
02:29
We were attacked by a polar bear on day two.
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我们在第二天就被一只北极熊袭击。
02:32
I had frostbite in my left big toe.
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我的左脚大拇指还长了冻疮。
02:35
We started running very low on food. We were both pretty hungry, losing lots of weight.
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我们的食物也所剩无几。饥饿让我们体重大为下降。
02:38
Some very unusual weather conditions, very difficult ice conditions.
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当时的天气状况也极为反常,
02:42
We had
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我们当时
02:44
decidedly low-tech communications.
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毫无疑问只有初级的通讯工具。
02:46
We couldn't afford a satellite phone, so we had HF radio.
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没钱买卫星电话,所以我们只有高频收音机。
02:49
You can see two ski poles sticking out of the roof of the tent.
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你可以看到两个滑雪杆从帐篷顶伸出来。
02:51
There's a wire dangling down either side.
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每边都有一根金属线拉下来。
02:53
That was our HF radio antenna.
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那是我们高频收音机的天线。
02:55
We had less than two hours
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在两个月内,我们只有少于2小时
02:57
two-way communication with the outside world in two months.
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的与外界的双向通话时间。
03:01
Ultimately, we ran out of time.
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最关键的是,我们时间不够用。
03:03
We'd skied 400 miles. We were just over 200 miles left
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我们滑了400英里,但离北极
03:06
to go to the Pole, and we'd run out of time.
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还剩200英里的时候,我们就没时间了。
03:08
We were too late into the summer; the ice was starting to melt;
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夏天已经来临,冰都开始融化了,
03:10
we spoke to the Russian helicopter pilots on the radio,
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我们通过广播同俄罗斯直升机驾驶员通话,
03:12
and they said, "Look boys, you've run out of time.
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他们说:“看看小伙子们,你们时间不够了。
03:14
We've got to pick you up."
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我们得把你们接上来。”
03:16
And I felt that I had failed, wholeheartedly.
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当时我感觉我彻头彻尾地失败了。
03:19
I was a failure.
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我就是个失败者。
03:21
The one goal, the one dream I'd had
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我就这么一个目标,
03:23
for as long as I could remember -- I hadn't even come close.
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打记事起就有的这么一个梦想,我却连影子都没摸着。
03:27
And skiing along that first trip, I had two
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在那次旅途中,每当旅途变得艰难,
03:29
imaginary video clips that I'd replay over and over again in my mind
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我便在心里来回播放两个镜头,
03:32
when the going got tough, just to keep my motivation going.
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来激励我不断前行。
03:35
The first one was reaching the Pole itself.
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第一个便是成功抵达北极这件事本身。
03:38
I could see vividly, I suppose,
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我能够绘声绘色地想象我自己,
03:40
being filmed out of the door of a helicopter, there was, kind of, rock music playing in the background,
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走出直升飞机的舱门,摇滚乐在背景声中响起,
03:43
and I had a ski pole with a Union Jack, you know, flying in the wind.
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我手握滑雪杆,上挂英国国旗,你知道,随风飘扬。
03:46
I could see myself sticking the flag in a pole, you know --
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我甚至能看见自己亲自把国旗插在北极上,你知道,
03:49
ah, glorious moment -- the music kind of reaching a crescendo.
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那是一个光荣的时刻,伴随着背景乐也即将达到高潮。
03:51
The second video clip
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第二个镜头是
03:53
that I imagined was getting back to Heathrow airport,
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我想像自己马上就要到达希思罗机场,
03:55
and I could see again, vividly,
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又是那种身临其境的想象,
03:57
the camera flashbulbs going off,
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照相机闪光不断,
03:59
the paparazzi, the autograph hunters,
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狗仔队们,索要签名的粉丝们,
04:02
the book agents coming to sign me up for a deal.
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要来找我出书的出版商们。
04:04
And of course, neither of these things happened.
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当然,这些都没有发生。
04:07
We didn't get to the Pole, and we didn't have any money
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我们没去成北极,也没有挣着钱。
04:10
to pay anyone to do the PR, so no one had heard
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没钱去找人宣传,就没人
04:12
of this expedition.
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知道这次探险。
04:14
And I got back to Heathrow. My mum was there; my brother was there;
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当我回到希思罗,我妈,我哥,
04:17
my granddad was there -- had a little Union Jack --
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我爷爷,他们都在那,我爷爷还拿着英国国旗,一小面。
04:20
(Laughter)
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(笑声)
04:22
-- and that was about it. I went back to live with my mum.
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就是这样,我回到了我母亲身边。
04:24
I was physically exhausted,
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我当时精疲力尽,
04:26
mentally an absolute wreck, considered myself a failure.
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心灵受到了极大的创伤,认为自己就是失败者。
04:29
In a huge amount of debt personally to this expedition,
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还欠了一屁股债。
04:31
and lying on my mum's sofa,
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我成天躺在母亲家的沙发上,
04:33
day in day out, watching daytime TV.
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整日看着日间电视节目。
04:37
My brother sent me a text message, an SMS --
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我哥给我发了一条短信
04:39
it was a quote from the "Simpsons." It said,
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是从《辛普森一家》上引的,说:“
04:41
"You tried your hardest and failed miserably.
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你竭尽全力,却以悲惨失败结局。
04:45
The lesson is: don't even try."
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所以,结论是:一开始就别去做。”
04:47
(Laughter)
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(笑声)
04:48
Fast forward three years. I did eventually get off the sofa,
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三年一晃而逝,我最终从沙发上爬了起来,
04:51
and start planning another expedition. This time,
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并且开始计划另一次探险。这次,
04:53
I wanted to go right across, on my own this time,
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我准备独自一人,直接穿越
04:55
from Russia, at the top of the map,
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地图顶端的俄罗斯,
04:57
to the North Pole, where the sort of kink in the middle is,
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到地图中间的那个弯的北极那,
04:59
and then on to Canada.
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然后抵达加拿大。
05:01
No one has made a complete crossing of the Arctic Ocean on their own.
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没有人独自完成横跨北冰洋的壮举。
05:04
Two Norwegians did it as a team in 2000. No one's done it solo.
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两个挪威人曾组队在2000年完成过,但没有人能独自穿越。
05:08
Very famous, very accomplished Italian mountaineer,
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而享誉盛名,富有成就的意大利登山家,
05:12
Reinhold Messner, tried it in 1995,
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雷纳德·梅斯纳尔在1995年作出了尝试,
05:13
and he was rescued after a week.
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但他却在一周后被救起。
05:15
He described this expedition as 10 times
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他形容这个旅程
05:18
as dangerous as Everest.
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比攀登珠穆朗玛峰还有危险10倍。
05:20
So for some reason, this was what I wanted to have a crack at,
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所以,这大概也是我为什么要试一试的原因,
05:25
but I knew that even to stand a chance of getting home in one piece,
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但我知道,想要安然无恙的回家就已经不容易了,
05:27
let alone make it across to Canada,
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更不用说还要穿越北冰洋,到达加拿大。
05:29
I had to take a radical approach.
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我必须得很激进。
05:32
This meant everything from perfecting the
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这意味着我得从熟练使用
05:34
sawn-off, sub-two-gram toothbrush,
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专门缩短的,不到两克的牙刷开始做起,
05:37
to working with one of the world's leading nutritionists
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还要于世界上最杰出的营养学家之一合作
05:39
in developing a completely new,
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从零开始,共同制定出一套全新的,
05:41
revolutionary nutritional strategy from scratch:
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革命性的营养策略——
05:44
6,000 calories a day.
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6000卡路里一天。
05:46
And the expedition started in February last year.
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去年2月,旅程开始了。
05:49
Big support team. We had a film crew,
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我们有一个庞大的支持团队:一个摄影队,
05:51
a couple of logistics people with us,
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几个后勤人员,
05:53
my girlfriend, a photographer.
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还有我女朋友,她是个摄影师。
05:56
At first it was pretty sensible. We flew British Airways to Moscow.
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一开始进展得挺顺利。我们乘英航飞到莫斯科。
06:00
The next bit in Siberia to Krasnoyarsk,
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接下来是从塞伯利亚到克拉斯诺雅茨克的短暂飞行,
06:02
on a Russian internal airline called KrasAir,
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乘坐的是俄罗斯国内的一家航班叫KrasAir(发音很象坠机),(笑声)
06:05
spelled K-R-A-S.
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K-R-A-S
06:07
The next bit, we'd chartered a pretty elderly Russian plane
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下一段路,我们租了一架俄国的老爷机,
06:10
to fly us up to a town called Khatanga,
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飞到一个叫Khatanga的镇,
06:12
which was the sort of last bit of civilization.
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那应该算是最后一片有人烟的地带了。
06:15
Our cameraman, who it turned out was a pretty nervous flier at the best of times,
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而我们的摄影师,一个在最好的条件下乘飞机也会犯晕的人,
06:19
actually asked the pilot, before we got on the plane, how long this flight would take,
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在上飞机前跑去问飞行员,我们得飞多久才能着陆,
06:21
and the pilot -- Russian pilot -- completely deadpan, replied,
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而那个俄国飞行员毫无表情地回答道,
06:24
"Six hours -- if we live."
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6个小时——如果我们活着到达的话。
06:27
(Laughter)
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(笑声)
06:30
We got to Khatanga.
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我们就这样到了Khatanga.
06:32
I think the joke is that Khatanga isn't the end of the world,
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开句玩笑,Khatanga并不是世界的尽头,
06:35
but you can see it from there.
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但是从那里你可以看得见世界的尽头。
06:37
(Laughter)
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(笑声)
06:38
It was supposed to be an overnight stay. We were stuck there for 10 days.
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本来我们只准备待一个晚上。结果最后被困在那里10天。
06:41
There was a kind of vodka-fueled pay dispute between
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原因是伏特加酒醉后的报酬纠纷
06:43
the helicopter pilots and the people that owned the helicopter,
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在直升飞机飞行员和机主之间,
06:45
so we were stuck. We couldn't move.
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所以我们被困住了。哪儿也去不了。
06:47
Finally, morning of day 11, we got the all-clear,
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最终,第11天早晨,我们解决了所有的问题。
06:50
loaded up the helicopters -- two helicopters flying in tandem --
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把东西装上直升机。两架直升机一起飞到
06:54
dropped me off at the edge of the pack ice.
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冻结冰层边沿,在那里将我放下。
06:56
We had a frantic sort of 45 minutes of filming,
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我们拍摄了一个美妙的45分钟短片,
06:59
photography; while the helicopter was still there,
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还有摄影。当直升机还在那里,
07:01
I did an interview on the satellite phone;
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我通过卫星电话接受了采访,
07:03
and then everyone else climbed back into the helicopter,
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然后其他的所有人登上直升机,
07:07
wham, the door closed, and I was alone.
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砰的一下,飞机舱门关上了,留下了我一个人。
07:12
And I don't know if words will ever quite do that moment justice.
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现在我不知道文字是否能够还原那一刻的真实。
07:14
All I could think about was running back up to the door,
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我当时满脑子就是走回机舱门,
07:16
banging on the door, and saying, "Look guys,
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砰砰砰打门,然后说:”好吧诸位,
07:18
I haven't quite thought this through."
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我其实还没下决心。“
07:20
(Laughter)
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(笑声)
07:25
To make things worse, you can just see the white dot
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更加糟糕的是,你可以看这个白点,
07:27
up at the top right hand side of the screen; that's a full moon.
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在屏幕的右上方;那是满月。
07:30
Because we'd been held up in Russia, of course,
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因为我们在俄罗斯被耽搁了一阵子,当然,
07:32
the full moon brings the highest and lowest tides;
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满月带来最大或最小的潮汐;
07:34
when you're standing on the frozen surface of the sea,
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当你站在结冰的海洋表面时,
07:37
high and low tides generally mean
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最高或最低的潮汐一般意味着
07:39
that interesting things are going to happen -- the ice is going to start moving around a bit.
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有趣的事情将要发生了--冰面将会小幅的移动。
07:43
I was, you can see there, pulling two sledges.
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我当时,正如你们所见,正在拖着两个雪橇。
07:45
Grand total in all, 95 days of food and fuel,
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95天食物和燃料的总重量,
07:47
180 kilos -- that's almost exactly 400 pounds.
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是180千克--大概是400磅重。
07:51
When the ice was flat or flattish,
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当冰面是水平或者几乎水平时,
07:53
I could just about pull both.
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我可以同时拖拽两个雪橇。
07:55
When the ice wasn't flat, I didn't have a hope in hell.
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当冰面不是水平时,我一点希望也没有。
07:57
I had to pull one, leave it, and go back and get the other one.
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我只能先拖一个,然后回头再拖另外一个。
07:59
Literally scrambling through what's called pressure ice --
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准确的说,我翻越的是这些所谓的起伏冰 --
08:02
the ice had been smashed up under the pressure of the currents of the ocean,
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来自风,潮汐和洋流的压力
08:05
the wind and the tides.
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把冰挤碎了。
08:08
NASA described the ice conditions last year as the worst since records began.
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NASA 形容去年冰层的情况是有记载以来最恶劣的。
08:13
And it's always drifting. The pack ice is always drifting.
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而且冰层总是在飘移。
08:16
I was skiing into headwinds for nine
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去年那整个10周我一个人滑雪时,
08:18
out of the 10 weeks I was alone last year,
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我顶风滑行了9周。
08:20
and I was drifting backwards most of the time.
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大多数时间我被冰层带着向后移动
08:23
My record was minus 2.5 miles.
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我的记录是负2.5英里。
08:26
I got up in the morning, took the tent down, skied north for seven-and-a-half hours,
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我早晨起来,收起帐篷,向北滑行了7个半小时,
08:29
put the tent up, and I was two and a half miles further back
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支起帐篷,然后发现从出发的地方开始算,
08:32
than when I'd started.
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我反而退后了2.5英里。
08:34
I literally couldn't keep up with the drift of the ice.
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真是像逆水行舟,我往前滑的速度还赶不上冰层往后漂的快。
08:38
(Video): So it's day 22.
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(录像:) 今天是第22天。
08:43
I'm lying in the tent, getting ready to go.
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我正在帐篷里,准备出发。
08:46
The weather is just appalling --
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天气很糟糕 --
08:48
oh, drifted back about five miles
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昨晚上
08:51
in the last -- last night.
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冰面往后移了5英里。
08:53
Later in the expedition, the problem was no longer the ice.
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在探险的后期,冰不再是问题。
08:56
It was a lack of ice -- open water.
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因为没有什么冰了 -- (全是)开阔的水面。
08:58
I knew this was happening. I knew the Artic was warming.
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我就料到这会发生。 我知道北极正在变暖。
09:01
I knew there was more open water. And I had a secret weapon up my sleeve.
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我料到了这里将会出现开阔水域,所以我准备了秘密武器。
09:04
This was my little bit of bio-mimicry.
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这里有一些关于仿生学的知识。
09:06
Polar bears on the Artic Ocean move in dead straight lines.
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北极熊在北冰洋只知道向前走。
09:10
If they come to water, they'll climb in, swim across it.
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如果它们遇见水面,它们会游过去。
09:12
So we had a dry suit developed -- I worked with a team in Norway --
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所以我们设计了一套潜水衣服--我们和来自挪威的科学小组合作--
09:15
based on a sort of survival suit --
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基于救生衣的原理--
09:17
I suppose, that helicopter pilots would wear --
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我想,直升机飞行员也许会用得着--
09:19
that I could climb into. It would go on over my boots, over my mittens,
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我钻进外套里,它会从我的靴子盖到手套,
09:21
it would pull up around my face, and seal pretty tightly around my face.
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还可以拉上来圈住我的脸,在脸边上一圈贴的严严实实的。
09:24
And this meant I could ski
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这意味着我可以在非常薄的冰层上面
09:26
over very thin ice,
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滑雪。
09:28
and if I fell through, it wasn't the end of the world.
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如果我掉了下去,也不会是世界末日。
09:30
It also meant, if the worst came to the worst,
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这同样意味着,即使到了最坏的情况。
09:32
I could actually jump in and swim across
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我能跳到水中然后游过去
09:34
and drag the sledge over after me.
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还能够拖着我的雪橇。
09:37
Some pretty radical technology,
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一个相当激进的技术,
09:39
a radical approach --but it worked perfectly.
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激进的方式--但很好用。
09:41
Another exciting thing we did last year
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我们去年做的另外一件令人激动的事情
09:43
was with communications technology.
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是跟通信技术有关的。
09:46
In 1912, Shackleton's Endurance expedition --
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在1912年,在沙克尔顿的耐久征途中--
09:49
there was -- one of his crew, a guy called Thomas Orde-Lees.
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有一个-- 他的一个队员,叫做托马斯 奥德-莱斯。
09:52
He said, "The explorers of 2012,
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他说,“对于2012年的探险者们,
09:54
if there is anything left to explore,
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如果还有什么地方没有人探险的话,
09:56
will no doubt carry pocket wireless telephones
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毫无疑问会装备有小型手机
09:59
fitted with wireless telescopes."
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配上无线望远镜。”
10:02
Well, Orde-Lees guessed wrong by about eight years. This is my pocket wireless telephone,
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好吧,奥德-莱斯算错了大概8年。这是我的小型无线手机,
10:05
Iridium satellite phone.
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铱星卫星电话。
10:07
The wireless telescope was a digital camera I had tucked in my pocket.
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所谓的无线望远镜是我的装在口袋里的数码相机。
10:10
And every single day of the 72 days I was alone on the ice,
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在我身处极地的72天中的每一天,
10:12
I was blogging live from my tent,
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我在帐篷里更新我的博客,
10:15
sending back a little diary piece,
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发送一些日记的片段,
10:17
sending back information on the distance I'd covered --
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发送这些我走过的路程的信息 --
10:19
the ice conditions, the temperature --
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冰层的情况,温度 --
10:21
and a daily photo.
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以及每日照片。
10:23
Remember, 2001,
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记住,在2001年,
10:25
we had less than two hours radio contact with the outside world.
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我们和外界时间交流仅有不到两小时的无线电交流。
10:29
Last year, blogging live from an expedition
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而就在去年,我可以实时更新探险博客
10:31
that's been described as 10 times as dangerous as Everest.
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在这个被称作比珠穆朗玛峰还艰险十倍的地方。
10:34
It wasn't all high-tech. This is navigating
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这不全是为了享受高科技,在所谓的雪盲环境里,
10:36
in what's called a whiteout.
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(更重要的)是导航功能。
10:38
When you get lots of mist, low cloud, the wind starts blowing the snow up.
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当雾气来临,云层压低,风把雪花吹起。
10:41
You can't see an awful lot. You can just see, there's a yellow
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能见度很低。大家可以看到(屏幕),这里有一条黄色的
10:43
ribbon tied to one of my ski poles.
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带子系在我的一个滑雪杆上。
10:45
I'd navigate using the direction of the wind.
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我全靠风向确定前进的方向。
10:47
So, kind of a weird combination of high-tech and low-tech.
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总而言之,高科技和原始方法的奇怪结合。
10:50
I got to the Pole on the 11th of May.
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5月11日,我到达极点。
10:52
It took me 68 days to get there from Russia,
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从俄罗斯出发,我花了68天走到这里,
10:54
and there is nothing there.
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结果看到白茫茫一片大地真干净。
10:57
(Laughter).
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(笑声)。
10:59
There isn't even a pole at the Pole. There's nothing there,
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在极点甚至不是一个(固定的)点。什么都没有。
11:01
purely because it's sea ice. It's drifting.
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完全因为这里都是漂浮在海洋上的冰,随时在移动。
11:04
Stick a flag there, leave it there, pretty soon it will drift off, usually towards Canada or Greenland.
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在这里插一个旗子,放在这里不久就会随着冰层漂走,通常是朝向加拿大或者格林兰的方向。
11:07
I knew this, but I was expecting something.
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我预料到了这些,但我多少还是在期待着看见一些东西。
11:12
Strange mixture of feelings: it was extremely warm by this stage,
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奇怪的情绪混杂着:在那里其实是比较暖和的,
11:16
a lot of open water around, and
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周围很多开阔水面,
11:18
of course, elated that I'd got there under my own steam,
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通过自己的力量到达极点当然是鼓舞万分的,
11:21
but starting to really realize
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但我也开始意识到
11:24
that my chances of making it all the way across to Canada,
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我要从北极走回加拿大的成功率,
11:26
which was still 400 miles away,
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差不多400英里的路程,
11:28
were slim at best.
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即使在最好的情况下,也是很小的。
11:30
The only proof I've got that I was there
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我到达那里的唯一证据
11:32
is a blurry photo of my GPS, the little satellite navigation gadget.
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是我这张不清晰的GPS的照片,这个小卫星定位仪器。
11:35
You can just see --
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你们可以从这里看到(屏幕) --
11:37
there's a nine and a string of zeros here.
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这里有个9还有一串0.
11:40
Ninety degrees north -- that is slap bang in the North Pole.
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北纬90度 -- 突然就到了是北极。
11:44
I took a photo of that. Sat down on my sledge. Did a sort of video diary piece.
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我坐在我的雪橇上,给GPS照了张相,录了一小段有声日记。
11:47
Took a few photos. I got my satellite phone out.
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照了几张相。我拿出卫星电话。
11:49
I warmed the battery up in my armpit.
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在腋下把电池捂热。
11:51
I dialed three numbers. I dialed my mum.
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我拨了三个号码。我打了一个给我母亲,
11:54
I dialed my girlfriend. I dialed the CEO of my sponsor.
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打了一个给我女朋友,还打了一个给赞助商的总裁。
11:56
And I got three voicemails.
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结果我接到了三个电话留言提示(都没人接)。
11:59
(Laughter)
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(笑声)
12:05
(Video): Ninety.
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(录像):90.
12:12
It's a special feeling.
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奇特的感觉。
12:14
The entire planet
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整个星球
12:16
is rotating
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都在旋转
12:18
beneath my feet.
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于我的脚下。
12:22
The -- the whole world underneath me.
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这个世界 -- 在我脚下。
12:24
I finally got through to my mum. She was at the queue of the supermarket.
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我终于打通了母亲的电话,她正在超市排队。
12:27
She started crying. She asked me to call her back.
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她开始哭,还让我待会儿在打给她。
12:30
(Laughter)
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(笑声)
12:32
I skied on for a week past the Pole.
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我越过了北极点滑行一周。
12:34
I wanted to get as close to Canada as I could
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我想在情况变坏到无法前进之前
12:36
before conditions just got too dangerous to continue.
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尽可能地靠近加拿大。
12:39
This was the last day I had on the ice.
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这是我在冰上的最后一天。
12:41
When I spoke to the -- my project management team,
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当我和我的管理团队通话时,
12:43
they said, "Look, Ben, conditions are getting too dangerous.
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他们说,“看,本,情况越来越糟。
12:48
There are huge areas of open water just south of your position.
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在你的南边有大片的开阔水面。
12:50
We'd like to pick you up.
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我们得把你接上飞机了。
12:52
Ben, could you please look for an airstrip?"
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本,你能不能找一块飞机着陆地?“
12:54
This was the view outside my tent
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当我接到这个关键的电话
12:57
when I had this fateful phone call.
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这是我的帐篷外面的场景 。(没有合适的着陆点)
13:01
I'd never tried to build an airstrip before. Tony, the expedition manager, he said,
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我从没尝试找过飞机着陆地。托尼,这次探险的总管,他说,
13:03
"Look Ben, you've got to find 500 meters of
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“本,你得找到500米长的
13:05
flat, thick safe ice."
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平坦,厚实,安全的冰层。“
13:07
The only bit of ice I could find --
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这是仅有的一小块冰我能找到的 --
13:09
it took me 36 hours of skiing around trying to find an airstrip --
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就这还花费了我36小时滑行找寻 --
13:13
was exactly 473 meters. I could measure it with my skis.
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整整473米长。我能用我的滑雪板测量。
13:16
I didn't tell Tony that. I didn't tell the pilots that.
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我没有告诉托尼这个,我也没有告诉飞行员这个。
13:18
I thought, it'll have to do.
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我盘算着,应该能行。
13:21
(Video): Oh, oh, oh, oh, oh, oh.
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(录像): 嗷,嗷,嗷,嗷,嗷,嗷。
13:24
It just about worked. A pretty dramatic landing --
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刚刚好,很惊险的着陆 --
13:27
the plane actually passed over four times,
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飞机实际上飞过了4次,
13:29
and I was a bit worried it wasn't going to land at all.
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我有点担心它根本就不会试着着陆。
13:31
The pilot, I knew, was called Troy. I was expecting someone called Troy
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飞行员,我知道叫做特洛伊。我想名叫特洛伊的人
13:34
that did this for a living to be a pretty tough kind of guy.
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干这种行当的,应该是个硬汉。
13:37
I was bawling my eyes out by the time the plane landed -- a pretty emotional moment.
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看着飞机着陆时我如释重负的痛哭了。 真是一个很感性的时刻。
13:41
So I thought, I've got to compose myself for Troy.
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接着我想,我至少应该平静下来,给特洛伊留个好印象。
13:44
I'm supposed to be the roughty toughty explorer type.
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我应该保持那种坚韧的探险者形象。
13:48
The plane taxied up to where I was standing.
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飞机滑行到我站的地方。
13:50
The door opened. This guy jumped out. He's about that tall. He said, "Hi, my name is Troy."
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门打开。他跳了下来,大概到我肩膀那么高。他说(孩童般的声调):”你好,我的名字是特-洛-伊。”
13:53
(Laughter).
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(笑声)
13:55
The co-pilot was a lady called Monica.
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副飞行员是一个叫莫妮卡的女生。
13:57
She sat there in a sort of hand-knitted jumper.
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她穿着手工的套衫坐在那儿。
13:59
They were the least macho people I've ever met, but they made my day.
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他们是我遇见过最没用男子气概的人,但他们让我那天特别高兴。
14:03
Troy was smoking a cigarette on the ice;
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特洛伊 -- 特洛伊在冰上抽烟,
14:05
we took a few photos. He
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我们照了一些照片。他 --
14:07
climbed up the ladder. He said, "Just -- just get in the back."
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爬上绳梯,他说,“你上后边坐。“
14:10
He threw his cigarette out as he got on the front,
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他丢掉了烟,先上了飞机前排,
14:12
and I climbed in the back.
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然后我爬上了飞机后排。
14:14
(Laughter)
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(笑声)
14:15
Taxied up and down the runway a few times,
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在跑道上缓缓地来回几次后,
14:17
just to flatten it out a bit, and he said, "Right, I'm going to --
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仅仅是为了把冰面碾平一些。然后他说:”好了,我准备 --
14:19
I'm going to give it a go." And he --
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我准备起飞了。“ 然后他 --
14:22
I've now learned that this is standard practice, but it had me worried at the time.
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我后来了解了这是很平常的一套动作,但那时我看了很是担心。
14:24
He put his hand on the throttle.
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他把手放在飞机推进器上。
14:26
You can see the control for the engines is actually on the roof of the cockpit.
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你们可以看到引擎控制器实际上是在驾驶舱的顶部。
14:29
It's that little bar there. He put his hand on the throttle.
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就是那个地方的小操纵杆。他把手放在推进器上。
14:31
Monica very gently put her hand sort of on top of his.
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莫妮卡非常温柔把手放在他的手上。
14:33
I thought, "God, here we go. We're, we're -- this is all or nothing."
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我想,“神啊,拼了。我们孤注一掷了。”
14:36
Rammed it forwards. Bounced down the runway. Just took off.
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飞机隆隆向前。冲击跑道。刚刚好能起飞。
14:38
One of the skis just clipped a pressure ridge at the end of the runway,
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在跑道最后,飞机的一个滑板刚刚好压碎由于水压隆起的冰脊。
14:41
banking. I could see into the cockpit, Troy battling the controls,
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我可以看到驾驶舱,特洛伊正在使劲操作控制杆,
14:44
and he just took one hand off, reached back,
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同时他松开一只手,探到后方,
14:47
flipped a switch on the roof of the cockpit,
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拨动了一个在驾驶舱顶的开关,(停顿)
14:49
and it was the "fasten seat belt" sign you can see on the wall.
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是提示“系紧安全带”的提示,你们可以在墙上看到。
14:53
(Laughter)
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(笑声)
14:57
And only from the air did I see the big picture.
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从空中我才最终看到整个(北极)的境况。
14:59
Of course, when you're on the ice, you only ever see one obstacle at a time,
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当然,当在冰上时,你一次只能看见一个障碍物。
15:01
whether it's a pressure ridge or there's a bit of water.
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不是一个压力冰脊就是一小片水。
15:04
This is probably why I didn't get into trouble about the length of my airstrip.
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这也许是为什么跑道长度没有给我带来上÷麻烦的原因。
15:07
I mean, it really was starting to break up.
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我的意思是,冰层真的是刚刚开始破裂。
15:09
Why? I'm not an explorer in the traditional sense.
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为什么(我要一个人滑雪探险北极)?我不是一个传统意义上的探险者。
15:12
I'm not skiing along drawing maps;
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我不是边滑行边绘制地图,
15:14
everyone knows where the North Pole is.
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人人都知道北极在那里。
15:16
At the South Pole there's a big scientific base. There's an airstrip.
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在南极有一个大的科学考察基地。那里有一个飞行跑道。
15:18
There's a cafe and there's a tourist shop.
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有一个餐厅和一个旅行者商店。
15:21
For me, this is about exploring human limits,
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对我来说,这次旅行是在探索人类极限。
15:24
about exploring the limits of physiology, of psychology
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生理的极限,心理的极限
15:27
and of technology. They're the things that excite me.
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还有科技的极限。这些才是使我感兴趣的事情。
15:30
And it's also about potential, on a personal level.
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同时对我个人而言,这也是考验个人潜能。
15:32
This, for me, is a chance to explore the limits --
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对我来说,这是个探索极限的机会 --
15:35
really push the limits of my own potential, see how far they stretch.
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把我自身的潜力推到极限,看够能坚持多久。
15:38
And on a wider scale, it amazes me how people go through life
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在更加宽广的尺度来看,让我着迷的是人们怎样
15:42
just scratching the surface of their potential,
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通过发挥他们的潜力来生活。
15:45
just doing three or four or five percent
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把自己逼到在自己能力所及的百分之九十五,百分之九十六或者百分之九十七。
15:48
of what they're truly capable of. So,
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所以
15:50
on a wider scale, I hope that this journey
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在更广阔的角度,我希望用这次旅行
15:52
was a chance to inspire other people
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去激励其他的人
15:54
to think about what they want to do
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去体会他们想利用自己的潜能做什么,
15:56
with their potential, and what they want to do with the tiny amount of time
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去体会利用我们每个人在这个星球仅有的一点点时间
15:59
we each have on this planet.
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他们想做什么。
16:03
That's as close as I can come to summing that up.
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这是我能够下的最好的总结了。
16:05
The next question is, how do you answer the call of nature at minus 40?
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下一个问题是,如何在零下四十度方便?
16:08
The answer, of course, to which is a trade secret --
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答案是,当然,是个商业秘密 --(众不满足)
16:13
and the last question,
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最后一个问题。
16:15
what's next? As quickly as possible,
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下一步做什么?我想尽快说完,
16:17
if I have a minute left at the end, I'll go into more detail.
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如果我最后剩一分钟,我会说一些细节(关于第二个问题)。
16:21
What's next:
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下一步:
16:23
Antarctica.
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南极洲。
16:25
It's the coldest, highest,
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地球上最冷的,最高的,
16:27
windiest and driest continent on Earth.
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最多风,最干燥的大陆。
16:31
Late 1911, early 1912,
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1911年底,1912年初,
16:33
there was a race to be the first
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有一个看谁第一个到达南极点的赛跑,
16:37
to the South Pole: the heart of the Antarctic continent.
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那是南极大陆的心脏。
16:39
If you include the coastal ice shelves, you can see that the Ross Ice Shelf --
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如果算上海岸冰架,你们可以看到劳斯冰架 --
16:42
it's the big one down here -- the Ross Ice Shelf is the size of France.
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在这儿,下面的大块 -- 劳斯冰架跟法国国土面积相当。
16:45
Antarctica, if you include the ice shelves,
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南极洲,如果包括冰架,
16:47
is twice the size of Australia -- it's a big place.
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是澳大利亚国土面积的两倍 -- 一个很大的地方。
16:49
And there's a race to get to the Pole between Amundsen,
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那时谁先到南极点的竞争者是阿蒙森在斯科特之间,
16:51
the Norwegian -- Amundsen had dog sleds and huskies --
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阿蒙森是挪威人 -- 他有雪橇和哈士奇狗 --
16:54
and Scott, the British guy, Captain Scott.
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斯科特是英国人,斯科特船长。
16:56
Scott had sort of ponies and some tractors
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斯科特有几匹小马和一些雪地车
16:59
and a few dogs, all of which went wrong,
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几条狗,斯科特的装备全出问题了,
17:01
and Scott and his team of four people ended up on foot.
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导致斯科特和他的四名队员最后只能徒步前进。
17:05
They got to the Pole late January 1912
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他们于1912年1月到达极点
17:07
to find a Norwegian flag already there.
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却发现早有一面挪威国旗插在那里。
17:10
There was a tent, a letter to the Norwegian king.
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那里有一个帐篷,一封给挪威国王的信。
17:12
And they turned around, headed back to the coast,
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他们掉头,往海岸走,
17:15
and all five of them died on the return journey.
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五个人在回程的路上都死去了。
17:18
Since then, no one has ever skied --
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自此,没人再尝试过滑行穿越 --
17:20
this was 93 years ago -- since then, no one has ever skied
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那是93年前的事情了 -- 从那时开始,没人再次滑雪
17:23
from the coast of Antarctica to the Pole and back.
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从南极洲海岸达到极点然后返回。
17:26
Every South Pole expedition you may have heard about
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每一支你们听说过的南极探险队
17:28
is either flown out from the Pole or has used vehicles
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从极点返回时,不是使用飞机就是汽车,
17:30
or dogs or kites to do some kind of crossing --
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狗拉雪橇,或者风筝来实现穿越 --
17:33
no one has ever made a return journey. So that's the plan.
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没人尝试过徒步返回。所以,这就是我的计划。
17:35
Two of us are doing it.
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我们会有两个人一起做这件事。
17:37
That's pretty much it.
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我说的差不多了。
17:40
One final thought before I get to the toilet bit, is --
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在我收尾之前,最后我想说的是 --
17:43
is, I have a -- and I meant to scan this and I've forgotten --
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我有个 -- 我本来想把这个扫描下来结果忘了 --
17:46
but I have a -- I have a school report. I was 13 years old,
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我有个 -- 学校操行报告。我那是13岁。
17:49
and it's framed above my desk at home. It says,
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现在这个操行报告还放在我家的桌子上,镶在镜框里。上面写着:
17:51
"Ben lacks sufficient impetus
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“本缺乏足够的动力
17:54
to achieve anything worthwhile."
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去做成任何有意义的事情。”
17:57
(Laughter)
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(笑声)
17:58
(Applause)
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(鼓掌)
18:01
I think if I've learned anything, it's this: that no one else
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我想如果我从中学到了什么,那就是:没有其他任何人
18:03
is the authority on your potential.
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能够成为你的潜力的主宰者。
18:05
You're the only person that decides how far you go and what you're capable of.
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只有你自己才能决定你能走多远,你有多大的能力。
18:08
Ladies and gentlemen, that's my story.
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女生们先生们,这就是我的故事。谢谢
18:12
Thank you very much.
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谢谢
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