Ben Saunders: Three things to know before you ski to the North Pole

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2007-01-12 ・ TED


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Ben Saunders: Three things to know before you ski to the North Pole

56,878 views ・ 2007-01-12

TED


Dvaput kliknite na engleske titlove ispod za reprodukciju videozapisa.

Prevoditelj: Suzana Baric Recezent: Katarina Smetko
00:26
This is me. My name is Ben Saunders.
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Ovo sam ja, Ben Saunders.
00:27
I specialize in dragging heavy things
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Bavim se vučom teških stvari
00:29
around cold places.
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po hladnim mjestima.
00:31
On May 11th last year,
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11. svibnja prošle godine
00:33
I stood alone at the North geographic Pole.
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stajao sam sam na Sjevernom zemljopisnom polu.
00:36
I was the only human being in an area
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Bio sam jedino ljudsko biće na području
00:38
one-and-a-half times the size of America,
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jedan i pol puta većem od Amerike,
00:40
five-and-a-half thousand square miles.
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tj. 8850 kvadratnih kilometara.
00:42
More than 2,000 people have climbed Everest.
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Više od 2000 ljudi popelo se na Everest.
00:44
12 people have stood on the moon.
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12 ljudi bilo je na Mjesecu.
00:46
Including me, only four people
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Uključujući mene, samo četvero ljudi
00:48
have skied solo to the North Pole.
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samo je skijalo do Sjevernog pola.
00:51
And I think the reason for that --
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Mislim da je razlog tome --
00:53
(Applause)
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(Pljesak)
00:57
-- thank you -- I think the reason for that is that it's -- it's --
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-- hvala -- mislim da je to zato što je to,
00:59
well, it's as Chris said, bonkers.
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kako je Chris rekao, ludost.
01:01
It's a journey that is right at the limit
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To putovanje na granici je
01:04
of human capability.
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ljudskih sposobnosti.
01:06
I skied the equivalent of 31 marathons
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Odskijao sam duljinu
01:08
back to back. 800 miles in 10 weeks.
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31 uzastopnog maratona. 1287 km u 10 tjedana.
01:11
And I was dragging all the food I needed,
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Vukao sam svu potrebnu hranu,
01:13
the supplies, the equipment, sleeping bag,
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zalihe, opremu, vreću za spavanje,
01:15
one change of underwear -- everything I needed for nearly three months.
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jedne rezervne gaće -- sve što mi je trebalo za gotovo tri mjeseca.
01:18
(Laughter)
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(Smijeh)
01:21
What we're going to try and do today, in the 16 and a bit minutes I've got left,
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U ovih 16-ak minuta koje su mi ostale
01:24
is to try and answer three questions. The first one is, why?
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pokušat ćemo odgovoriti na tri pitanja. Prvo je: Zašto?
01:27
The second one is,
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Drugo je:
01:29
how do you go to the loo at minus 40?
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Kako ići na zahod na -40?
01:31
"Ben, I've read somewhere that at minus 40,
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"Bene, negdje sam pročitao da na -40
01:34
exposed skin becomes frostbitten in less than a minute, so how do you answer the call of nature?"
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gola koža dobiva ozebline za manje od minute, pa kako odgovaraš na zov prirode?"
01:37
I don't want to answer these now. I'll come on to them at the end.
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Neću sad odgovarati. Vratit ću se na to na kraju.
01:40
Third one: how do you top that? What's next?
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Treće: Kako to nadmašiti? Što dalje?
01:44
It all started back in 2001.
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Sve je započelo 2001.
01:46
My first expedition was with a guy called Pen Hadow -- enormously experienced chap.
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Na prvu ekspediciju išao sam s Penom Hadowom, jednim veoma iskusnim tipom.
01:49
This was like my polar apprenticeship.
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To je bilo nešto poput moje polarne prakse.
01:52
We were trying to ski from this group of islands up here,
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Pokušali smo odskijati od ove skupine otoka
01:55
Severnaya Zemlya, to the North Pole.
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nazvanih Severnaja Zemlja do Sjevernog pola.
01:57
And the thing that fascinates me about the North Pole,
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Kod Sjevernog zemljopisnog pola
01:59
geographic North Pole, is that it's slap bang in the middle of the sea.
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fascinira me to što se nalazi usred mora.
02:02
This is about as good as maps get,
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Ne postoje bolje karte.
02:04
and to reach it you've got to ski literally
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Da biste došli do njega morate doslovno skijati
02:06
over the frozen crust,
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preko zaleđene kore,
02:08
the floating skin of ice on the Artic Ocean.
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plutajućeg ledenog prekrivača Arktičkog oceana.
02:11
I'd spoken to all the experts.
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Razgovarao sam s mnogo stručnjaka,
02:13
I'd read lots of books. I studied maps and charts.
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pročitao mnogo knjiga, proučio mape i karte.
02:15
But I realized on the morning of day one
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Ali ujutro prvog dana shvatio sam
02:17
that I had no idea exactly
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da nemam pojma
02:19
what I'd let myself in for.
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u što sam se upustio.
02:21
I was 23 years old. No one my age
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Imao sam 23 godine. Nitko moje dobi
02:23
had attempted anything like this,
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nikad nije pokušao ništa slično
02:25
and pretty quickly, almost everything
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i vrlo brzo gotovo sve
02:27
that could have gone wrong did go wrong.
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što je moglo poći po zlu, pošlo je po zlu.
02:29
We were attacked by a polar bear on day two.
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Drugog dana ekspedicije napao nas je polarni medvjed.
02:32
I had frostbite in my left big toe.
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Imao sam ozebline na lijevom nožnom palcu.
02:35
We started running very low on food. We were both pretty hungry, losing lots of weight.
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Počelo nam je nestajati hrane. Obojica smo bili jako gladni, gubili smo mnogo na težini.
02:38
Some very unusual weather conditions, very difficult ice conditions.
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Vremenski uvjeti bili su vrlo neobični, jako teški uvjeti na ledu.
02:42
We had
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Svojom odlukom
02:44
decidedly low-tech communications.
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imali smo jednostavne komunikacijske uređaje.
02:46
We couldn't afford a satellite phone, so we had HF radio.
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Nismo si mogli priuštiti satelitske telefone pa smo imali visokofrekventni radio.
02:49
You can see two ski poles sticking out of the roof of the tent.
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Vide se dvije skijaška štapa koja strše iz krova šatora.
02:51
There's a wire dangling down either side.
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Žica je visila s obje strane.
02:53
That was our HF radio antenna.
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To je bila naša antena za radio.
02:55
We had less than two hours
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Tijekom dva mjeseca imali smo manje od dva sata
02:57
two-way communication with the outside world in two months.
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dvosmjerne komunikacije s ostatkom svijeta.
03:01
Ultimately, we ran out of time.
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Naposljetku nam je isteklo vrijeme.
03:03
We'd skied 400 miles. We were just over 200 miles left
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Odskijali smo 643 km. Ostalo nam je preko 320 km
03:06
to go to the Pole, and we'd run out of time.
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do pola, a vrijeme nam je isteklo.
03:08
We were too late into the summer; the ice was starting to melt;
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Bilo je već poodmaklo ljeto i led se počeo topiti.
03:10
we spoke to the Russian helicopter pilots on the radio,
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Preko radija smo razgovarali s pilotima ruskog helikoptera
03:12
and they said, "Look boys, you've run out of time.
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koji su nam rekli da nam je vrijeme isteklo
03:14
We've got to pick you up."
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te da moraju doći po nas.
03:16
And I felt that I had failed, wholeheartedly.
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Osjećao sam se kao da sam podbacio.
03:19
I was a failure.
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Bio sam promašaj.
03:21
The one goal, the one dream I'd had
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Jedini cilj, jedino o čemu sam sanjao
03:23
for as long as I could remember -- I hadn't even come close.
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otkada pamtim -- nisam došao ni blizu tome.
03:27
And skiing along that first trip, I had two
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Skijajući na tom prvom putovanju,
03:29
imaginary video clips that I'd replay over and over again in my mind
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imao sam dva filmića koja sam vrtio u glavi
03:32
when the going got tough, just to keep my motivation going.
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kada je put postao težak, kako bih se motivirao.
03:35
The first one was reaching the Pole itself.
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Prvi je bio stizanje na sam pol.
03:38
I could see vividly, I suppose,
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Živopisno sam to vidio, valjda snimljeno
03:40
being filmed out of the door of a helicopter, there was, kind of, rock music playing in the background,
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s vrata helikoptera, u pozadini je svirala rock glazba,
03:43
and I had a ski pole with a Union Jack, you know, flying in the wind.
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a ja sam imao skijaški štap s britanskom zastavom koja se vijorila na vjetru.
03:46
I could see myself sticking the flag in a pole, you know --
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Vidio sam se kako zabijam zastavu u pol --
03:49
ah, glorious moment -- the music kind of reaching a crescendo.
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ah, sjajnog li trenutka -- a glazba dostiže vrhunac.
03:51
The second video clip
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Drugi filmić koji sam vrtio
03:53
that I imagined was getting back to Heathrow airport,
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bio je povratak na zračnu luku Heathrow
03:55
and I could see again, vividly,
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i opet sam živopisno vidio
03:57
the camera flashbulbs going off,
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bljeskove fotoaparata,
03:59
the paparazzi, the autograph hunters,
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novinare, lovce na autograme,
04:02
the book agents coming to sign me up for a deal.
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agente kako dolaze dogovoriti pisanje knjige.
04:04
And of course, neither of these things happened.
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Naravno, ništa od toga nije se dogodilo.
04:07
We didn't get to the Pole, and we didn't have any money
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Nismo stigli do pola, a nismo imali novca
04:10
to pay anyone to do the PR, so no one had heard
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da platimo promociju pa nitko nije ni čuo
04:12
of this expedition.
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za ovu ekspediciju.
04:14
And I got back to Heathrow. My mum was there; my brother was there;
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I tako sam se vratio na Heathrow. Moja majka je bila ondje, kao i moj brat;
04:17
my granddad was there -- had a little Union Jack --
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moj djed je bio ondje -- imao je malu zastavu --
04:20
(Laughter)
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(Smijeh)
04:22
-- and that was about it. I went back to live with my mum.
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-- i to je bilo to. Vratio sam se živjeti s mamom.
04:24
I was physically exhausted,
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Bio sam fizički izmoren,
04:26
mentally an absolute wreck, considered myself a failure.
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psihički u potpunosti slomljen, smatrao sam se promašajem.
04:29
In a huge amount of debt personally to this expedition,
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Osobno sam bio u velikom dugu zbog te ekspedicije,
04:31
and lying on my mum's sofa,
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ležao sam na maminom kauču,
04:33
day in day out, watching daytime TV.
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po cijele dane, gledao televiziju.
04:37
My brother sent me a text message, an SMS --
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Brat mi je poslao SMS --
04:39
it was a quote from the "Simpsons." It said,
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bio je to citat iz Simpsona.
04:41
"You tried your hardest and failed miserably.
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"Dao si sve od sebe i u potpunosti podbacio.
04:45
The lesson is: don't even try."
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Pouka je da ne treba ni pokušati."
04:47
(Laughter)
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(Smijeh)
04:48
Fast forward three years. I did eventually get off the sofa,
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Tri godine kasnije. Naposljetku sam ustao s kauča
04:51
and start planning another expedition. This time,
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i počeo planirati još jednu ekspediciju. Ovog puta
04:53
I wanted to go right across, on my own this time,
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htio sam sam prijeći put
04:55
from Russia, at the top of the map,
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od Rusije, na vrhu karte,
04:57
to the North Pole, where the sort of kink in the middle is,
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do Sjevernog pola, gdje je malo zeznuto,
04:59
and then on to Canada.
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i onda do Kanade.
05:01
No one has made a complete crossing of the Arctic Ocean on their own.
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Nitko nije sam prešao cijeli Arktički ocean.
05:04
Two Norwegians did it as a team in 2000. No one's done it solo.
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Dva Norvežanina učinila su to 2000. godine kao tim. Nitko to nije sam učinio.
05:08
Very famous, very accomplished Italian mountaineer,
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Veoma poznat i veoma uspješan talijanski planinar,
05:12
Reinhold Messner, tried it in 1995,
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Reinhold Messner, pokušao je 1995.,
05:13
and he was rescued after a week.
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ali morali su ga spasiti nakon tjedan dana.
05:15
He described this expedition as 10 times
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Opisao je tu ekspediciju
05:18
as dangerous as Everest.
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10 puta opasnijom od uspona na Everest.
05:20
So for some reason, this was what I wanted to have a crack at,
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Iz nekog razloga htio sam se u tome okušati,
05:25
but I knew that even to stand a chance of getting home in one piece,
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ali znao sam da riskiram povratak doma u jednom komadu,
05:27
let alone make it across to Canada,
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ako uopće uspijem doći do Kanade.
05:29
I had to take a radical approach.
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Morao sam naći radikalan pristup.
05:32
This meant everything from perfecting the
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To je uključivalo sve od usavršavanja
05:34
sawn-off, sub-two-gram toothbrush,
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prepiljene četkice za zube lakše od dva grama,
05:37
to working with one of the world's leading nutritionists
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do rada s vodećim svjetskim nutricionistima
05:39
in developing a completely new,
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na kompletnom razvoju potpuno nove,
05:41
revolutionary nutritional strategy from scratch:
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revolucionarne nutricionističke strategije:
05:44
6,000 calories a day.
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6000 kalorija na dan.
05:46
And the expedition started in February last year.
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Ekspedicija je započela u veljači prošle godine.
05:49
Big support team. We had a film crew,
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Veliki prateći tim. Imali smo filmsku ekipu,
05:51
a couple of logistics people with us,
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nekoliko ljudi za logistiku,
05:53
my girlfriend, a photographer.
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moju djevojku, fotografa.
05:56
At first it was pretty sensible. We flew British Airways to Moscow.
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Početak je razumljiv. Odletjeli smo British Airwaysom do Moskve.
06:00
The next bit in Siberia to Krasnoyarsk,
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Sljedeći dio puta u Sibiru do Krasnojarska
06:02
on a Russian internal airline called KrasAir,
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letjeli smo domaćom ruskom kompanijom KrasAir,
06:05
spelled K-R-A-S.
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piše se K-R-A-S (engl. crash - sudar).
06:07
The next bit, we'd chartered a pretty elderly Russian plane
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Zatim smo unajmili postariji ruski avion
06:10
to fly us up to a town called Khatanga,
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da nas odveze do grada Khatange,
06:12
which was the sort of last bit of civilization.
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koji je bio kraj civilizacije.
06:15
Our cameraman, who it turned out was a pretty nervous flier at the best of times,
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Naš kamerman, koji je bio poprilično živčan pri letu,
06:19
actually asked the pilot, before we got on the plane, how long this flight would take,
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pitao je pilota, prije no što smo se ukrcali, koliko će let trajati,
06:21
and the pilot -- Russian pilot -- completely deadpan, replied,
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a ruski je pilot mrtav-hladan odgovorio:
06:24
"Six hours -- if we live."
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"Šest sati -- ako preživimo."
06:27
(Laughter)
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(Smijeh)
06:30
We got to Khatanga.
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Stigli smo u Khatangu.
06:32
I think the joke is that Khatanga isn't the end of the world,
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Khatanga ipak nije kraj svijeta,
06:35
but you can see it from there.
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ali možete ga vidjeti odande.
06:37
(Laughter)
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(Smijeh)
06:38
It was supposed to be an overnight stay. We were stuck there for 10 days.
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Trebali smo samo prenoćiti, a zapeli smo ondje 10 dana.
06:41
There was a kind of vodka-fueled pay dispute between
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Bila je tu neka votkom natopljena svađa oko plaće
06:43
the helicopter pilots and the people that owned the helicopter,
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između pilota helikoptera i njegovih vlasnika
06:45
so we were stuck. We couldn't move.
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pa smo zapeli. Nismo mogli otići.
06:47
Finally, morning of day 11, we got the all-clear,
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Konačno, ujutro 11. dana, dobili smo znak za kretanje,
06:50
loaded up the helicopters -- two helicopters flying in tandem --
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nakrcali helikoptere -- dva helikoptera koji lete u tandemu --
06:54
dropped me off at the edge of the pack ice.
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ostavili su me na rubu polarne kape.
06:56
We had a frantic sort of 45 minutes of filming,
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Imali smo 45 minuta mahnitog snimanja,
06:59
photography; while the helicopter was still there,
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fotografiranja; dok je helikopter još bio ondje,
07:01
I did an interview on the satellite phone;
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obavio sam intervju preko satelitskog telefona;
07:03
and then everyone else climbed back into the helicopter,
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i tad su se svi osim mene popeli u helikopter,
07:07
wham, the door closed, and I was alone.
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vrata su se zatvorila i ostao sam sam.
07:12
And I don't know if words will ever quite do that moment justice.
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Ne znam je li moguće riječima dočarati taj trenutak.
07:14
All I could think about was running back up to the door,
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Samo sam htio otrčati natrag,
07:16
banging on the door, and saying, "Look guys,
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lupati po vratima i reći: "Čujte,
07:18
I haven't quite thought this through."
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nisam ovo baš dobro promislio."
07:20
(Laughter)
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(Smijeh)
07:25
To make things worse, you can just see the white dot
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Da bi stvar bila još gora, vidite samo bijelu točku
07:27
up at the top right hand side of the screen; that's a full moon.
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u desnom gornjem kutu ekrana; to je pun mjesec.
07:30
Because we'd been held up in Russia, of course,
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Zadržali smo se u Rusiji,
07:32
the full moon brings the highest and lowest tides;
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a pun mjesec donosi najjače plime i oseke;
07:34
when you're standing on the frozen surface of the sea,
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kada stojite na smrznutoj površini mora,
07:37
high and low tides generally mean
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plima i oseka obično znače
07:39
that interesting things are going to happen -- the ice is going to start moving around a bit.
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da će se dogoditi zanimljive stvari -- led će se pomalo početi micati uokolo.
07:43
I was, you can see there, pulling two sledges.
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Kao što vidite, vukao sam dvoje saonice.
07:45
Grand total in all, 95 days of food and fuel,
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Sveukupno 95 dana hrane i goriva,
07:47
180 kilos -- that's almost exactly 400 pounds.
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180 kilograma tereta.
07:51
When the ice was flat or flattish,
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Kada je led bio ravan ili donekle ravan,
07:53
I could just about pull both.
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jedva sam mogao vući oboje.
07:55
When the ice wasn't flat, I didn't have a hope in hell.
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Kad led nije bio ravan, nisam imao šanse.
07:57
I had to pull one, leave it, and go back and get the other one.
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Morao sam povući jedne, ostaviti ih i vratiti se po druge.
07:59
Literally scrambling through what's called pressure ice --
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Doslovno sam se penjao kroz ledene gromade --
08:02
the ice had been smashed up under the pressure of the currents of the ocean,
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led se zdrobio pod pritiskom struja u oceanu,
08:05
the wind and the tides.
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vjetra i morskih mijena.
08:08
NASA described the ice conditions last year as the worst since records began.
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NASA je rekla da su uvjeti na ledu prošle godine bili najgori otkad se bilježe.
08:13
And it's always drifting. The pack ice is always drifting.
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I led uvijek nose struje. Ledene gromade uvijek plutaju.
08:16
I was skiing into headwinds for nine
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Skijao sam uz vjetar 9 od 10 tjedana
08:18
out of the 10 weeks I was alone last year,
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kojih sam prošle godine bio sam
08:20
and I was drifting backwards most of the time.
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i većinu vremena plutao sam unatrag.
08:23
My record was minus 2.5 miles.
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Moj rekord bio je minus 4 km.
08:26
I got up in the morning, took the tent down, skied north for seven-and-a-half hours,
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Ustao sam ujutro, sklopio šator, sedam i pol sati skijao sjeverno,
08:29
put the tent up, and I was two and a half miles further back
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podigao šator i bio sam 4 km dalje unatrag
08:32
than when I'd started.
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nego kad sam krenuo.
08:34
I literally couldn't keep up with the drift of the ice.
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Nisam mogao držati korak s plutanjem leda.
08:38
(Video): So it's day 22.
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(Video): 22. dan je.
08:43
I'm lying in the tent, getting ready to go.
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Ležim u šatoru, pripremam se za pokret.
08:46
The weather is just appalling --
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Vrijeme je odvratno --
08:48
oh, drifted back about five miles
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noćas sam otplutao
08:51
in the last -- last night.
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oko 8 km unatrag.
08:53
Later in the expedition, the problem was no longer the ice.
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Kasnije u ekspediciji problem više nije bio led,
08:56
It was a lack of ice -- open water.
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već nedostatak leda -- otvorena voda.
08:58
I knew this was happening. I knew the Artic was warming.
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Znao sam da se to događa. Znao sam da se Arktik zagrijava.
09:01
I knew there was more open water. And I had a secret weapon up my sleeve.
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Znao sam da ima sve više otvorene vode. Ali imao sam tajno oružje.
09:04
This was my little bit of bio-mimicry.
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Bilo je to malo biomimikrije.
09:06
Polar bears on the Artic Ocean move in dead straight lines.
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Polarni medvjedi s Arktičkog oceana kreću se u posve ravnim linijama.
09:10
If they come to water, they'll climb in, swim across it.
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Kada dođu do vode, uđu u nju i preplivaju je.
09:12
So we had a dry suit developed -- I worked with a team in Norway --
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S jednim timom iz Norveške radio sam na razvoju ronilačkog odijela,
09:15
based on a sort of survival suit --
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sličnog odijelu za preživljavanje --
09:17
I suppose, that helicopter pilots would wear --
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kakvo bi, pretpostavljam, piloti helikoptera nosili --
09:19
that I could climb into. It would go on over my boots, over my mittens,
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koje sam mogao obući. Ide preko mojih čizama, rukavica,
09:21
it would pull up around my face, and seal pretty tightly around my face.
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prevuče se preko lica i čvrsto se zakopča.
09:24
And this meant I could ski
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To je značilo da mogu skijati
09:26
over very thin ice,
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preko vrlo tankog leda,
09:28
and if I fell through, it wasn't the end of the world.
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a ako bih propao, ne bi to bio kraj svijeta.
09:30
It also meant, if the worst came to the worst,
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To je također značilo, kada bih morao,
09:32
I could actually jump in and swim across
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da mogu uskočiti u vodu i preplivati je
09:34
and drag the sledge over after me.
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te povući saonice za sobom.
09:37
Some pretty radical technology,
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Radikalna tehnologija,
09:39
a radical approach --but it worked perfectly.
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drastičan pristup -- ali savršeno je funkcioniralo.
09:41
Another exciting thing we did last year
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Prošle godine smo učinili još jednu uzbudljivu stvar,
09:43
was with communications technology.
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s komunikacijskom tehnologijom.
09:46
In 1912, Shackleton's Endurance expedition --
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1912. godine, jedan od članova Shackletonove ekspedicije
09:49
there was -- one of his crew, a guy called Thomas Orde-Lees.
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na brodu Endurance bio je Thomas Orde-Lees.
09:52
He said, "The explorers of 2012,
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Rekao je: "Istraživači će 2012.,
09:54
if there is anything left to explore,
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ako budu imali što istraživati,
09:56
will no doubt carry pocket wireless telephones
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sigurno nositi bežične džepne telefone
09:59
fitted with wireless telescopes."
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opremljene bežičnim teleskopima."
10:02
Well, Orde-Lees guessed wrong by about eight years. This is my pocket wireless telephone,
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Pa, Orde-Lees pogriješio je za otprilike 8 godina. Ovo je moj bežični džepni telefon,
10:05
Iridium satellite phone.
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Iridiumov satelitski telefon.
10:07
The wireless telescope was a digital camera I had tucked in my pocket.
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Bežični je teleskop digitalni fotoaparat koji sam spremio u džep.
10:10
And every single day of the 72 days I was alone on the ice,
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Svaki od 72 dana koje sam proveo sam na ledu,
10:12
I was blogging live from my tent,
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pisao sam blog iz svog šatora,
10:15
sending back a little diary piece,
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slao maleni dio dnevnika,
10:17
sending back information on the distance I'd covered --
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podatke o udaljenosti koju sam prešao,
10:19
the ice conditions, the temperature --
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uvjetima na ledu, temperaturi --
10:21
and a daily photo.
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i sliku svakog dana.
10:23
Remember, 2001,
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Sjećate se, 2001. godine
10:25
we had less than two hours radio contact with the outside world.
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imali smo manje od dva sata radijske veze s ostatkom svijeta.
10:29
Last year, blogging live from an expedition
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Prošle godine uživo sam pisao blog s ekspedicije
10:31
that's been described as 10 times as dangerous as Everest.
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koja je ocijenjena deset puta opasnijom od Everesta.
10:34
It wasn't all high-tech. This is navigating
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Nije sve bila najnovija tehnologija. Ovo je navigacija
10:36
in what's called a whiteout.
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tijekom "whiteouta".
10:38
When you get lots of mist, low cloud, the wind starts blowing the snow up.
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Kad je magla jaka, a oblaci niski, vjetar počne dizati snijeg.
10:41
You can't see an awful lot. You can just see, there's a yellow
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Ne može se baš mnogo vidjeti. Možete samo vidjeti
10:43
ribbon tied to one of my ski poles.
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žutu vrpcu vezanu za moj skijaški štap.
10:45
I'd navigate using the direction of the wind.
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Navigirao sam pomoću smjera vjetra.
10:47
So, kind of a weird combination of high-tech and low-tech.
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Dakle, jedna čudna kombinacija visoke i niske tehnologije.
10:50
I got to the Pole on the 11th of May.
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Na pol sam stigao 11. svibnja.
10:52
It took me 68 days to get there from Russia,
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Trebalo mi je 68 dana od Rusije do ondje,
10:54
and there is nothing there.
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a ondje nema ničega.
10:57
(Laughter).
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(Smijeh)
10:59
There isn't even a pole at the Pole. There's nothing there,
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Na polu nema ni pola. Nema ničega,
11:01
purely because it's sea ice. It's drifting.
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zato što je to morski led koji pluta.
11:04
Stick a flag there, leave it there, pretty soon it will drift off, usually towards Canada or Greenland.
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Zabodite zastavu ondje i uskoro će otplutati dalje, obično prema Kanadi ili Grenlandu.
11:07
I knew this, but I was expecting something.
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Znao sam to, ali ipak sam očekivao nešto.
11:12
Strange mixture of feelings: it was extremely warm by this stage,
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Čudna je to mješavina osjećaja: bilo je iznimno toplo u tom razdoblju,
11:16
a lot of open water around, and
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mnogo otvorene vode.
11:18
of course, elated that I'd got there under my own steam,
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Naravno, bio sam ushićen što sam onamo dospio vlastitim snagama,
11:21
but starting to really realize
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ali počeo sam shvaćati
11:24
that my chances of making it all the way across to Canada,
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da su izgledi da stignem skroz do Kanade,
11:26
which was still 400 miles away,
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udaljene 643 km,
11:28
were slim at best.
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veoma slabi.
11:30
The only proof I've got that I was there
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Jedini dokaz da sam bio ondje
11:32
is a blurry photo of my GPS, the little satellite navigation gadget.
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bila je mutna slika mog GPS-a, malog satelitskog navigacijskog uređaja.
11:35
You can just see --
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Jedva se može vidjeti
11:37
there's a nine and a string of zeros here.
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devetka i niz nula nakon nje.
11:40
Ninety degrees north -- that is slap bang in the North Pole.
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90 stupnjeva sjeverno -- to je točno na Sjevernom polu.
11:44
I took a photo of that. Sat down on my sledge. Did a sort of video diary piece.
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Slikao sam uređaj, sjeo na saonice i napravio snimku za dnevnik.
11:47
Took a few photos. I got my satellite phone out.
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Slikao sam par slika. Izvadio sam satelitski telefon.
11:49
I warmed the battery up in my armpit.
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Zagrijao sam bateriju pod pazuhom.
11:51
I dialed three numbers. I dialed my mum.
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Nazvao sam tri broja. Nazvao sam svoju mamu,
11:54
I dialed my girlfriend. I dialed the CEO of my sponsor.
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djevojku i direktora svog sponzora.
11:56
And I got three voicemails.
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I dobio sam tri govorne pošte.
11:59
(Laughter)
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(Smijeh)
12:05
(Video): Ninety.
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(Video): Devedeset.
12:12
It's a special feeling.
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Poseban je to osjećaj.
12:14
The entire planet
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Cijeli planet
12:16
is rotating
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okreće se
12:18
beneath my feet.
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pod mojim nogama.
12:22
The -- the whole world underneath me.
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Ispod mene je cijeli svijet.
12:24
I finally got through to my mum. She was at the queue of the supermarket.
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Konačno sam dobio mamu. Čekala je u redu u trgovini.
12:27
She started crying. She asked me to call her back.
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Zaplakala je. Zamolila me da je kasnije nazovem.
12:30
(Laughter)
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(Smijeh)
12:32
I skied on for a week past the Pole.
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Tjedan dana skijao sam dalje od pola.
12:34
I wanted to get as close to Canada as I could
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Želio sam doći što bliže Kanadi
12:36
before conditions just got too dangerous to continue.
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prije nego postane preopasno za nastavak.
12:39
This was the last day I had on the ice.
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To je bio moj posljednji dan na ledu.
12:41
When I spoke to the -- my project management team,
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Moj tim za vođenje projekta
12:43
they said, "Look, Ben, conditions are getting too dangerous.
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rekao mi je: "Bene, uvjeti postaju preopasni.
12:48
There are huge areas of open water just south of your position.
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Južno od tebe ogromna su područja otvorene vode.
12:50
We'd like to pick you up.
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Želimo doći po tebe.
12:52
Ben, could you please look for an airstrip?"
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Možeš li naći mjesto za slijetanje?"
12:54
This was the view outside my tent
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Ovo je bio pogled iz šatora
12:57
when I had this fateful phone call.
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kad sam obavljao ovaj sudbonosni poziv.
13:01
I'd never tried to build an airstrip before. Tony, the expedition manager, he said,
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Nikad nisam pokušao sagraditi pistu za slijetanje. Tony, voditelj ekspedicije, rekao je:
13:03
"Look Ben, you've got to find 500 meters of
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"Bene, moraš pronaći 500 metara
13:05
flat, thick safe ice."
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ravnog, debelog sigurnog leda."
13:07
The only bit of ice I could find --
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Jedini komadić leda koji sam pronašao,
13:09
it took me 36 hours of skiing around trying to find an airstrip --
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skijajući uokolo 36 sati kako bih pronašao pistu,
13:13
was exactly 473 meters. I could measure it with my skis.
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bio je dug točno 473 m. Izmjerio sam ga svojim skijama.
13:16
I didn't tell Tony that. I didn't tell the pilots that.
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Tonyju to nisam rekao, kao ni pilotima.
13:18
I thought, it'll have to do.
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Mislio sam da će morati biti dovoljno dobro.
13:21
(Video): Oh, oh, oh, oh, oh, oh.
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(Video): Oh, oh, oh, oh, oh, oh.
13:24
It just about worked. A pretty dramatic landing --
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Taman. Dosta dramatično slijetanje --
13:27
the plane actually passed over four times,
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zrakoplov je 4 puta preletio teren
13:29
and I was a bit worried it wasn't going to land at all.
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i malo sam se zabrinuo da neće ni sletjeti.
13:31
The pilot, I knew, was called Troy. I was expecting someone called Troy
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Znao sam da se pilot zove Troy. Očekivao sam da će netko tko se zove Troy
13:34
that did this for a living to be a pretty tough kind of guy.
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i bavi se ovime biti dosta žilav tip.
13:37
I was bawling my eyes out by the time the plane landed -- a pretty emotional moment.
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Plakao sam kao kišna godina kad je zrakoplov sletio -- veoma emocionalan trenutak.
13:41
So I thought, I've got to compose myself for Troy.
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Pomislio sam da se moram smiriti za Troya.
13:44
I'm supposed to be the roughty toughty explorer type.
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Trebao bih biti macho istraživač.
13:48
The plane taxied up to where I was standing.
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Zrakoplov se dorulao do mjesta gdje sam stajao.
13:50
The door opened. This guy jumped out. He's about that tall. He said, "Hi, my name is Troy."
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Vrata su se otvorila i iskočio je taj tip. Ovoliko je visok. Rekao je: "Bok, ja sam Troy.".
13:53
(Laughter).
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(Smijeh)
13:55
The co-pilot was a lady called Monica.
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Kopilot je bila žena, Monica.
13:57
She sat there in a sort of hand-knitted jumper.
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Sjedila je obučena u ručno pleten džemper.
13:59
They were the least macho people I've ever met, but they made my day.
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Nikad nisam upoznao manje macho ljude od njih, ali uljepšali su mi dan.
14:03
Troy was smoking a cigarette on the ice;
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Troy je na ledu pušio cigaretu;
14:05
we took a few photos. He
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snimili smo par slika.
14:07
climbed up the ladder. He said, "Just -- just get in the back."
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Popeo se na ljestve i rekao: "Samo uskoči iza."
14:10
He threw his cigarette out as he got on the front,
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Bacio je cigaretu van dok je ulazio u prednji dio,
14:12
and I climbed in the back.
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a ja sam se popeo iza.
14:14
(Laughter)
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(Smijeh)
14:15
Taxied up and down the runway a few times,
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Rulao je niz pistu nekoliko puta,
14:17
just to flatten it out a bit, and he said, "Right, I'm going to --
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kako bi je malo poravnao, i rekao: "U redu,
14:19
I'm going to give it a go." And he --
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pokušat ću." I tada je --
14:22
I've now learned that this is standard practice, but it had me worried at the time.
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saznao sam da je to uobičajeno, ali tada sam bio zabrinut.
14:24
He put his hand on the throttle.
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Stavio je ruku na regulator.
14:26
You can see the control for the engines is actually on the roof of the cockpit.
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Možete vidjeti da je regulator za motore zapravo na krovu kokpita.
14:29
It's that little bar there. He put his hand on the throttle.
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To je ona mala poluga. Stavio je ruku na regulator.
14:31
Monica very gently put her hand sort of on top of his.
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Monica je nježno stavila svoju ruku na njegovu.
14:33
I thought, "God, here we go. We're, we're -- this is all or nothing."
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Pomislio sam: "Bože, krećemo. Sve ili ništa."
14:36
Rammed it forwards. Bounced down the runway. Just took off.
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Gurnuo ju je naprijed. Poskakivao je niz sletište. Samo je poletio.
14:38
One of the skis just clipped a pressure ridge at the end of the runway,
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Jedna od skija zahvatila je ledeni greben na kraju piste.
14:41
banking. I could see into the cockpit, Troy battling the controls,
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Vidio sam kako se u kokpitu Troy bori s komandama,
14:44
and he just took one hand off, reached back,
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a onda je maknuo jednu ruku, posegnuo unatrag.
14:47
flipped a switch on the roof of the cockpit,
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upalio prekidač na krovu kokpita.
14:49
and it was the "fasten seat belt" sign you can see on the wall.
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Upalio je znak za vezanje pojaseva koji možete vidjeti na zidu.
14:53
(Laughter)
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(Smijeh)
14:57
And only from the air did I see the big picture.
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I tek sam iz zraka vidio cjelokupnu situaciju.
14:59
Of course, when you're on the ice, you only ever see one obstacle at a time,
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Naravno, kad ste na ledu, vidite samo jednu po jednu prepreku,
15:01
whether it's a pressure ridge or there's a bit of water.
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bio to ledeni greben ili malo vode.
15:04
This is probably why I didn't get into trouble about the length of my airstrip.
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Zato nisam shvaćao problem oko duljine moje piste.
15:07
I mean, it really was starting to break up.
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Mislim, stvarno se počela raspadati.
15:09
Why? I'm not an explorer in the traditional sense.
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Zašto? Ja nisam istraživač u tradicionalnom smislu riječi.
15:12
I'm not skiing along drawing maps;
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Ne skijam prema kartama;
15:14
everyone knows where the North Pole is.
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svi znaju gdje se Sjeverni pol nalazi.
15:16
At the South Pole there's a big scientific base. There's an airstrip.
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Na Južnom je polu velika znanstvena baza. Ondje je pista.
15:18
There's a cafe and there's a tourist shop.
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Kao i kafić i suvenirnica.
15:21
For me, this is about exploring human limits,
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Za mene ovo predstavlja istraživanje ljudskih ograničenja,
15:24
about exploring the limits of physiology, of psychology
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ograničenja fiziologije, psihologije
15:27
and of technology. They're the things that excite me.
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i tehnologije. Te me stvari uzbuđuju.
15:30
And it's also about potential, on a personal level.
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Osobno, radi se i o potencijalu.
15:32
This, for me, is a chance to explore the limits --
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Za mene je to prilika za istraživanje ograničenja --
15:35
really push the limits of my own potential, see how far they stretch.
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za pomicanje granica vlastitog potencijala, vidjeti dokle mogu ići.
15:38
And on a wider scale, it amazes me how people go through life
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Zbilja me čudi kako ljudi žive
15:42
just scratching the surface of their potential,
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samo grebući po površini svog potencijala,
15:45
just doing three or four or five percent
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iskorištavajući samo 3, 4 ili 5 % onoga
15:48
of what they're truly capable of. So,
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za što su sposobni.
15:50
on a wider scale, I hope that this journey
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Nadam se da ću ovim putovanjem
15:52
was a chance to inspire other people
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nadahnuti druge ljude
15:54
to think about what they want to do
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da razmisle o onome što žele učiniti sa svojim potencijalom
15:56
with their potential, and what they want to do with the tiny amount of time
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i s ono malo vremena koje svatko od nas ima
15:59
we each have on this planet.
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na ovom planetu.
16:03
That's as close as I can come to summing that up.
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To je najbolje što vam mogu prepričati.
16:05
The next question is, how do you answer the call of nature at minus 40?
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Sljedeće je pitanje kako odgovoriti na zov prirode na -40.
16:08
The answer, of course, to which is a trade secret --
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Naravno, odgovor na to je tajna zanata.
16:13
and the last question,
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Posljednje pitanje:
16:15
what's next? As quickly as possible,
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Što dalje? Ukratko,
16:17
if I have a minute left at the end, I'll go into more detail.
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ako budem imao minutu viška, reći ću vam detaljnije.
16:21
What's next:
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Što dalje:
16:23
Antarctica.
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Antarktika.
16:25
It's the coldest, highest,
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To je najhladniji, najviši,
16:27
windiest and driest continent on Earth.
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najvjetrovitiji i najsuši kontinent na Zemlji.
16:31
Late 1911, early 1912,
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Krajem 1911. godine, početkom 1912.
16:33
there was a race to be the first
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održala se utrka do Južnog pola,
16:37
to the South Pole: the heart of the Antarctic continent.
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srca Antarktike.
16:39
If you include the coastal ice shelves, you can see that the Ross Ice Shelf --
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Ako pribrojite obalne ledene šelfove, ovdje vidite šelf Ross Ice,
16:42
it's the big one down here -- the Ross Ice Shelf is the size of France.
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ovaj veliki dolje, veličine Francuske.
16:45
Antarctica, if you include the ice shelves,
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Antarktika, ako pribrojite ledene šelfove,
16:47
is twice the size of Australia -- it's a big place.
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dvaput je veća od Australije -- velika je.
16:49
And there's a race to get to the Pole between Amundsen,
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U utrci do Južnog pola sudjelovao je Amundsen,
16:51
the Norwegian -- Amundsen had dog sleds and huskies --
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Norvežanin koji je imao pseće saonice i haskije,
16:54
and Scott, the British guy, Captain Scott.
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i kapetan Scott, Britanac.
16:56
Scott had sort of ponies and some tractors
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Scott je imao ponije i traktore
16:59
and a few dogs, all of which went wrong,
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i nekoliko pasa, a sve je to otkazalo
17:01
and Scott and his team of four people ended up on foot.
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pa su Scott i njegov četveročlani tim morali ići pješice.
17:05
They got to the Pole late January 1912
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Stigli su na pol krajem siječnja 1912. godine
17:07
to find a Norwegian flag already there.
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i vidjeli da je norveška zastava već ondje.
17:10
There was a tent, a letter to the Norwegian king.
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Bio je ondje i šator i pismo norveškom kralju.
17:12
And they turned around, headed back to the coast,
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Okrenuli su se i krenuli prema obali,
17:15
and all five of them died on the return journey.
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ali svih petero umrlo je na povratku.
17:18
Since then, no one has ever skied --
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Ovo je bilo prije 93 godine i
17:20
this was 93 years ago -- since then, no one has ever skied
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otada nitko nije odskijao
17:23
from the coast of Antarctica to the Pole and back.
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od obale Antarktike do pola i natrag.
17:26
Every South Pole expedition you may have heard about
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Svaka ekspedicija na Južni pol za koju ste čuli
17:28
is either flown out from the Pole or has used vehicles
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vrati se zrakoplovom s pola ili koristi vozila
17:30
or dogs or kites to do some kind of crossing --
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ili pse ili zmajeve za prijelaz --
17:33
no one has ever made a return journey. So that's the plan.
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nitko se nikad nije vratio sam. To je plan.
17:35
Two of us are doing it.
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Dvojica ćemo ga odraditi.
17:37
That's pretty much it.
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To je manje-više to.
17:40
One final thought before I get to the toilet bit, is --
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Jedna završna misao prije nego spomenem zahod --
17:43
is, I have a -- and I meant to scan this and I've forgotten --
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mislio sam ovo skenirati, ali zaboravio sam.
17:46
but I have a -- I have a school report. I was 13 years old,
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Imam školsko izvješće koje stoji uokvireno iznad mog stola.
17:49
and it's framed above my desk at home. It says,
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Imao sam 13 godina.
17:51
"Ben lacks sufficient impetus
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Piše: "Ben nema dovoljan poriv
17:54
to achieve anything worthwhile."
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za postizanje bilo čega bitnog."
17:57
(Laughter)
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(Smijeh)
17:58
(Applause)
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(Pljesak)
18:01
I think if I've learned anything, it's this: that no one else
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Ako sam išta naučio, to je onda ovo: nitko drugi
18:03
is the authority on your potential.
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nema moć nad vašim potencijalom.
18:05
You're the only person that decides how far you go and what you're capable of.
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Vi jedini odlučujete koliko ćete daleko ići i za što ste sposobni.
18:08
Ladies and gentlemen, that's my story.
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Dame i gospodo, to je moja priča.
18:12
Thank you very much.
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Puno vam hvala.
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