Ken Kamler: Medical miracle on Everest

107,633 views ・ 2010-03-18

TED


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Translator: Lubomir Pajtas Reviewer: Peter Chabada
00:15
OK. We've heard a lot of people
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Okey. Počuli sme veľa ľudí
00:18
speak at this conference
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hovoriť na tejto konferencií
00:20
about the power of the human mind.
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o sile ľudskej mysle.
00:23
And what I'd like to do today
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A ja by som dnes chcel spraviť to,
00:25
is give you a vivid example
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že vám ukážem živý príklad toho,
00:27
of how that power can be unleashed
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ako možno túto silu uvolniť v prípade
00:29
when someone is in a survival situation,
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keď sa niekto nachádza na pokraji prežitia,
00:32
how the will to survive can bring that out in people.
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ako môže vôľa prežiť, vzbudiť túto silu v človeku.
00:36
This is an incident which occurred on Mount Everest;
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Toto je udalosť, ktorá sa odohral na Mt. Evereste.
00:39
it was the worst disaster in the history of Everest.
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Bola to najhoršia katastrofa v histórií Everestu.
00:43
And when it occurred, I was the only doctor on the mountain.
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A keď sa to stalo, bol som jediný lekár na tej hore.
00:46
So I'll take you through that
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Prevediem vás teda tým príbehom
00:48
and we'll see what it's like
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a uvidíme, aké to je,
00:51
when someone really
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keď niekto naozaj
00:53
summons the will to survive.
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vzbudí v sebe vôľu prežiť.
00:55
OK, this is Mount Everest.
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Okey. Toto je Mt. Everest.
00:57
It's 29,035 feet high.
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Je 8 850 metrov vysoký.
00:59
I've been there six times: Four times I did work with National Geographic,
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Bol som tam šesťkrát, štyrikrár som pracoval s National Geographic,
01:02
making tectonic plate measurements;
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na meraní tektonických platní.
01:04
twice, I went with NASA
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Dvakrát som išiel s NASA
01:06
doing remote sensing devices.
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a pracoval s diaľkovými snímacími zariadeniami.
01:09
It was on my fourth trip to Everest
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Bolo to počas mojej štvrtej cesty na Everest
01:11
that a comet passed over the mountain. Hyakutake.
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keď ponad horou preletela kométa. Hyakutake.
01:14
And the Sherpas told us then
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Vtedy nám Sherpovia povedali,
01:16
that was a very bad omen,
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že je to veľmi zlé znamenie
01:18
and we should have listened to them.
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a mali by sme mu načúvať.
01:20
Everest is an extreme environment.
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Everest je extrémne prostredie.
01:23
There's only one-third as much oxygen at the summit as there is at sea level.
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Na vrchole je iba tretinové množstvo kyslíku v porovnaní s úrovňou hladiny mora.
01:26
Near the summit, temperatures
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Blízko vrcholu môže byť teplota
01:28
can be 40 degrees below zero.
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40 stupňov pod nulou.
01:30
You can have winds 20 to 40 miles an hour.
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Vietor môže mať rýchlosť 30 až 60 kilometrov za hodinu.
01:32
It's actually a wind-chill factor
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Pocitová teplota je v takom prípade
01:34
which is lower than a summer day on Mars.
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nižšia ako počas letného dňa na Marse.
01:38
I remember one time being up near the summit,
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Spomínam si na jeden prípad, keď som bol blízko vrchola.
01:40
I reached into my down jacket
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Načiahol som sa do mojej spodnej bundy,
01:42
for a drink from my water bottle,
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aby som sa napil z flaše na vodu,
01:44
inside my down jacket,
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vo vnútri mojej spodnej bundy,
01:46
only to discover that the water was already frozen solid.
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no zistil som len to, že voda bola už zamrznutá na kameň.
01:49
That gives you an idea of just how severe
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To vám dáva predstavu o tom, aké nemilosrdné
01:51
things are near the summit.
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podmienky sú v blízkosti vrcholu.
01:55
OK, this is the route up Everest.
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Okey. Toto je cesta hore Everestom.
01:57
It starts at base camp, at 17,500 feet.
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Začína v základnom tábore, vo výške 5334 metrov.
02:01
Camp One, 2,000 feet higher.
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Tábor jedna, o 600 metrov vyššie.
02:04
Camp Two, another 2,000 feet higher up,
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Tábor dva, ďaľších 600 výškových metrov,
02:06
what's called the Western Cwm.
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ktorý sa nazýva Západný ľadovcový kar.
02:08
CampThree is at the base of Lhotse,
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Tábor tri je na úrovni Lhotse,
02:10
which is the fourth highest mountain in the world, but it's dwarfed by Everest.
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čo je štvrtá najvyššia hora na svete, no i tak je zatienená Everestom.
02:13
And then Camp Four is the highest camp;
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A tábor štyri, ktorý je najvýšši z táborov.
02:16
that's 3,000 feet short of the summit.
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Ten je ale stále ešte vzdialený 900 metrov od vrcholu.
02:20
This is a view of base camp.
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Toto je pohľad na základný tábor.
02:22
This is pitched on a glacier at 17,500 feet.
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Je postavený na ľadovci vo výške viac ako 5000 metrov nad morom.
02:25
It's the highest point you can bring your yaks
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Je to najvyššie miesto kam môžete doviesť svojich yakov
02:27
before you have to unload.
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pred tým, ako z nich zložíte náklad.
02:29
And this is what they unloaded for me:
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A toto zložili pre mňa.
02:31
I had four yak loads of medical supplies,
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Mal som štyroch yakov naložených lekárskymi zásobami,
02:33
which are dumped in a tent,
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ktoré sú uložené v stane.
02:35
and here I am trying to arrange things.
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A tu sa snažím usporiadať si veci.
02:38
This was our expedition.
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Toto bola naša expedícia.
02:40
It was a National Geographic expedition,
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Bola to výprava National Geographic,
02:42
but it was organized by The Explorers Club.
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ale bola organizovaná Explorers klubom.
02:44
There were three other expeditions on the mountain,
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Na hore boli vtedy ďaľšie tri expedície,
02:46
an American team, a New Zealand team
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Americký tým, tým z Nového Zélandu
02:48
and an IMAX team.
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a IMAX tím.
02:52
And, after actually two months of preparation,
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Po dvoch mesiacoch príprav,
02:55
we built our camps all the way up the mountain.
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sme postavili naše tábory po celej ceste hore.
02:58
This is a view looking up the icefall,
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Toto je pohľad na ľadopád zdola.
03:00
the first 2,000 feet of the climb
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Prvých 600 metrov lezenia
03:02
up from base camp.
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zo základného tábora.
03:05
And here's a picture in the icefall;
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A tu je fotka v ľadopáde.
03:07
it's a waterfall, but it's frozen, but it moves very slowly,
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Je to vodopád, ale zamrznutý, no veľmi pomaly sa hýbe
03:10
and it actually changes every day.
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a vlastne sa mení každý deň.
03:12
When you're in it, you're like a rat in a maze;
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Keď ste v ňom, ste ako myš v labyrinte:
03:14
you can't even see over the top.
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ani len nevidíte cez vrch.
03:17
This is near the top of the icefall.
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Toto je neďaľeko vrchu ľadopádu.
03:19
You want to climb through at night when the ice is frozen.
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Chcete ním preliezť počas noci, keď je ľad zmrznutý.
03:22
That way, it's less likely to tumble down on you.
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Vtedy je menej pravdepodovné, že sa na vás zosype.
03:24
These are some climbers reaching the top of the icefall just at sun-up.
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Tu sú niektorí lezci, ktorí dosahujú vrchol ľadopádu práve pri východe slnka.
03:30
This is me crossing a crevasse.
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Toto som ja ako prechádzam trhlinu.
03:32
We cross on aluminum ladders with safety ropes attached.
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Prechádzame na hliníkových rebríkoch s pripevnenými bezpečnostnými lanami.
03:37
That's another crevasse.
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To je ďaľšia trhlina.
03:39
Some of these things are 10 stories deep or more,
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Niektoré z týchto vecí sú hlboké aj 10 poschodí alebo viac
03:41
and one of my climbing friends says that
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a jeden z mojich spolulezcov vraví,
03:43
the reason we actually climb at night
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že dôvod prečo lezieme v noci
03:45
is because if we ever saw the bottom
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je ten, že ak by sme videli spodok
03:47
of what we're climbing over,
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toho, ponad čo lezieme,
03:49
we would never do it.
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nikdy by sme to nerobili.
03:52
Okay. This is Camp One.
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Okey. Toto je tábor jedna.
03:54
It's the first flat spot you can reach
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Je to prvé rovné miesto, ktoré môžete dosiahnuť
03:56
after you get up to the top of the icefall.
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po tom, ako výjdete na vrch ľadopádu.
03:59
And from there we climb up to Camp Two,
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A odtiaľ lezieme do tábora dva,
04:02
which is sort of the foreground.
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ktorý je vlastne určitým výstupkom.
04:04
These are climbers moving up the Lhotse face,
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Toto sú horolezci zdolávajúci stenu Lhotse,
04:06
that mountain toward Camp Three.
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hory smerom k táboru tri.
04:08
They're on fixed ropes here.
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Sú na upevnených lanách.
04:10
A fall here, if you weren't roped in,
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Pád na tomto mieste, ak by ste neboli naviazaný,
04:12
would be 5,000 feet down.
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by bol dlhý 1500 metrov smerom dole.
04:16
This is a view taken from camp three.
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Toto je pohľad z tábora tri.
04:18
You can see the Lhotse face is in profile,
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Stenu Lhotse môžete vidieť z profilu.
04:20
it's about a 45 degree angle. It takes two days to climb it,
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Má sklon približne 45 stupňv. Trvá dva dni vyliezť ju.
04:23
so you put the camp halfway through.
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Takže tábor umiestnite v polovičke cesty.
04:25
If you notice, the summit of Everest is black.
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Ak ste si všimli, tak vrchol Everestu je čierny.
04:27
There's no ice over it.
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Nie je na ňom žiaden ľad.
04:29
And that's because Everest is so high,
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To je spôsobené tým, že Everest je tak vysoko,
04:31
it's in the jet stream,
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že je v tryskovom prúdení
04:33
and winds are constantly scouring the face,
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a vetry neustále obrusujú stenu,
04:35
so no snow gets to accumulate.
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takže žiaden sneh nemá šancu sa tam nahromadiť.
04:37
What looks like a cloud behind the summit ridge
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To čo vyzerá ako oblak za okrajom vrchola
04:39
is actually snow being blown off the summit.
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je v skutorčnosti sneh odfukovaný z vrchu.
04:45
This is on the way up from Camp Three to Camp Four,
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Toto je na ceste z tábora tri do tábora štyri,
04:47
moving in, up through the clouds.
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pohybujúc sa cez oblaky.
04:52
And this is at Camp Four.
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A toto je tábor štyri.
04:54
Once you get to Camp Four, you have maybe 24 hours
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V momente ako sa dostanete do táboru štyri, máte možno tak 24 hodín,
04:57
to decide if you're going to go for the summit or not.
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aby ste sa rozhodli či idete na vrchol, alebo nie.
04:59
Everybody's on oxygen, your supplies are limited,
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Každý je na kyslíku. Vaše zásoby sú obmedzené
05:02
and you either have to go up or go down,
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a buď musíte ísť hore, alebo dole,
05:04
make that decision very quickly.
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rozhodnutie treba spraviť veľmi rýchlo.
05:07
This is a picture of Rob Hall.
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Tu je na fotke Rob Hall.
05:09
He was the leader of the New Zealand team.
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Bol vodcom tímu z Nového Zélandu
05:11
This is a radio he used later to call his wife
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Toto je rádio, ktoré použil neskôr, aby zavolal svojej žene,
05:13
that I'll tell you about.
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o čom vám porozprávam.
05:17
These are some climbers waiting to go to the summit.
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Toto sú nejakí lezci, ktorí čakajú na výstup k vrcholu.
05:19
They're up at Camp Four, and you can see that there's wind blowing off the summit.
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Sú hore v tábore štyri a môžete vidieť ako vietor fučí z vrcholu.
05:22
This is not good weather to climb in,
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Toto nie je dobré počasie na výstup,
05:24
so the climbers are just waiting, hoping that the wind's going to die down.
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takže horolezci iba čakajú a dúfajú že vietor utíchne.
05:29
And, in fact, the wind does die down at night.
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A skutočne vietor tú noc ustal.
05:31
It becomes very calm, there's no wind at all.
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Veľmi sa upokojil. Úplne prestalo fúkať.
05:33
This looks like a good chance to go for the summit.
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Vyzerá to na veľmi dobrú šancu na výstup.
05:36
So here are some climbers starting out for the summit
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Takže tu sú nejakí lezci začínajúci výstup k vrcholu
05:38
on what's called the Triangular Face.
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na niečom, čo sa volá triangulárna stena.
05:40
It's the first part of climb.
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Je to prvá časť výstupu.
05:42
It's done in the dark, because it's actually less steep than what comes next,
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Zdoláva sa za tmy, nakoľko je menej strmý ako to, čo nasleduje
05:44
and you can gain daylight hours if you do this in the dark.
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a môžte získať pár hodín svetla ak túto časť zdoláte potme.
05:48
So that's what happened.
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Takže prihodilo sa toto.
05:50
The climbers got on the southeast ridge.
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Lezci sa dostali na juhovýchodný hrebeň.
05:52
This is the view looking at the southeast ridge.
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Tento obrázok je pohľad na juhovýchodný hrebeň.
05:54
The summit would be in the foreground.
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Vrchol by sa nachádzal v popredí.
05:56
From here, it's about 1,500 feet
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Z tohto miesto to je na vrchol okolo 500 metrov
05:59
up at a 30-degree angle to the summit.
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v 30 stupňovom stúpaní.
06:04
But what happened that year was
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No ten rok sa stalo to,
06:06
the wind suddenly and unexpectedly picked up.
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že sa náhle a neočakávane zdvihol vietor.
06:08
A storm blew in that no one was anticipating.
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Prihnala sa búrka ktorú nikto nepredvídal.
06:11
You can see here some ferocious winds
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Môžete tu vidieť zúrivý vietor
06:13
blowing snow way high off the summit.
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odvievajúci sneh z vrcholu.
06:16
And there were climbers on that summit ridge.
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A na hrebeni vrcholu boli lezci.
06:20
This is a picture of me in that area
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Toto je fotka mňa v tej oblasti
06:22
taken a year before,
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urobená rok predtým
06:24
and you can see I've got an oxygen mask on
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a vidíte že mám nasadenú kyslíkovú masku
06:27
with a rebreather.
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s rebreatherom.
06:29
I have an oxygen hose connected here.
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Kyslíkovú hadicu mám pripojenú tu.
06:31
You can see on this climber, we have two oxygen tanks in the backpack --
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Na tomto lezcovi môžeťe vidieť, že máme dve kyslíkové bomby v batohu,
06:34
little titanium tanks, very lightweight --
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malé titániové bomby, ktoré sú veľmi ľahké.
06:36
and we're not carrying much else.
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Nenesieme toho o moc viac.
06:38
This is all you've got. You're very exposed on the summit ridge.
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Toto je všetko čo máte. Na hrebeni ste vystavení napospas živlom.
06:41
OK, this is a view taken on the summit ridge itself.
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Okey. Toto je obrázok odfotený na samotnom vrcholovom hrebeni.
06:44
This is on the way toward the summit,
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Tento je z cesty k vrcholu,
06:46
on that 1,500-foot bridge.
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na tom 500 metrovom mostíku.
06:49
All the climbers here are climbing unroped,
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Všetci lezci lezú v tomto mieste neistení
06:51
and the reason is because
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z toho dôvodu,
06:53
the drop off is so sheer on either side
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že sklon na obe strany je tak strmý,
06:55
that if you were roped to somebody,
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že ak by ste boli k niekomu priviazaní,
06:57
you'd wind up just pulling them off with you.
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a spadli by ste, stiahli by ste ich všetkých so sebou.
06:59
So each person climbs individually.
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Takže každý lezie samostatne.
07:01
And it's not a straight path at all,
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Nie je to zdaleká rovná cesta.
07:04
it's very difficult climbing,
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Je veľmi náročná na lezenie
07:07
and there's always the risk
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a vždy je tam riziko,
07:09
of falling on either side.
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pádu na jednu, alebo druhú stranu.
07:11
If you fall to your left, you're going to fall
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Ak padnete doľava, budete padať
07:13
8,000 feet into Nepal;
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2 500 metrov do Nepálu.
07:15
if you fall to your right,
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Ak padnete doprava,
07:17
you're going to fall 12,000 feet into Tibet.
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budete padať 3 500 metrov do Tibetu.
07:20
So it's probably better to fall into Tibet
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Takže je pravdepodobne lepšie spadnúť do Tibetu
07:22
because you'll live longer.
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lebo budete žiť dlhšie.
07:24
(Laughter)
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(Smiech)
07:29
But, either way, you fall for the rest of your life.
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Tak či tak, budete padať po celý zvyšok svojho života.
07:33
OK. Those climbers were up near the summit,
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Okey. Títo lezci boli nedaľeko vcholu,
07:35
along that summit ridge that you see up there,
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pozdĺž vrcholového hrebeňa ktorý vidíte tu hore
07:39
and I was down here in Camp Three.
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a ja som bol tu dole v tábore tri.
07:41
My expedition was down in Camp Three,
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Moja expedícia bola dole v tábore tri,
07:44
while these guys were up there in the storm.
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zatiaľ čo títo chlapi boli tam hore v búrke.
07:46
The storm was so fierce that we had to lay,
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Búrka bola taká silná že sme museli ležať.
07:49
fully dressed, fully equipped,
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Kompletne oblečení, plne vybavení
07:51
laid out on the tent floor
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ležať na podlahe stanu
07:53
to stop the tent from blowing off the mountain.
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aby sme zabránili tomu že ho vietor sfúkne z hory.
07:55
It was the worst winds I've ever seen.
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Bol to najhorší vietor aký som kedy videl.
07:57
And the climbers up on the ridge
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A lezci hore na hrebeni
08:00
were that much higher, 2,000 feet higher,
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boli omnoho vyššie, o 600 metrov vyššie
08:02
and completely exposed to the elements.
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a boli úplne vystavení živlom.
08:06
We were in radio contact with some of them.
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Boli sme v rádiovom kontakte s niektorými z nich.
08:08
This is a view taken along the summit ridge.
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Toto je obrázok odfotený pozdĺž vrcholového hrebeňa.
08:11
Rob Hall, we heard by radio,
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Rob Hall, počuli sme ho cez rádio,
08:13
was up here, at this point in the storm
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bol tam hore, na tomto mieste v búrke
08:16
with Doug Hansen.
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spolu s Dougom Hansenom.
08:18
And we heard that Rob was OK,
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A počuli sme, že Rob bol okey,
08:20
but Doug was too weak to come down.
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ale Doug bol príliš slabý na to aby zišiel dole.
08:22
He was exhausted, and Rob was staying with him.
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Bol vyčerpaný a Rob zostával s ním.
08:26
We also got some bad news in the storm
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V búrke sme dostali aj ďalšie zlé správy,
08:28
that Beck Weathers, another climber,
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že Beck Weathers, ďaľší lezec,
08:31
had collapsed in the snow and was dead.
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skoboval v snehu a že je mŕtvy.
08:34
There were still 18 other climbers
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Stále zostávalo 18 lezcov,
08:36
that we weren't aware of their condition.
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o stave ktorých sme nemali správy.
08:40
They were lost. There was total confusion on the mountain;
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Boli stratení. Na hore vládol totálny zmätok.
08:44
all the stories were confusing, most of them were conflicting.
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Všetky správy boli mätúce. Väčšina z nich si protirečila.
08:47
We really had no idea what was going on during that storm.
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Skutočne sme nemali poňatia čo sa dialo počas tej búrky.
08:50
We were just hunkered down
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Len sme sa chúlili
08:52
in our tents at Camp Three.
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v našich stanoch v tábore tri.
08:54
Our two strongest climbers, Todd Burleson and Pete Athans,
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Naši dvaja najlepší lezci, Todd Burleson a Pete Athans,
08:57
decided to go up to try to rescue who they could
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sa rozhodli, že pôjdu hore a pokúsia sa zachrániť koho budú môcť
09:00
even though there was a ferocious storm going.
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napriek tomu, že vonku bola zúrivá búrka.
09:03
They tried to radio a message to Rob Hall,
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Pokúšali sa rádiom odoslať správu Robovi Hallovi,
09:06
who was a superb climber
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ktorý bol špičkový lezec
09:09
stuck, sort of, with a weak climber
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uviaznutý, viac menej, so slabým lezcom
09:11
up near the summit.
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hore nedaleko vrchola.
09:13
I expected them to say to Rob,
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Očakával som od nich, že Robovi povedia
09:15
"Hold on. We're coming."
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"Vydrž. Ideme na pomoc."
09:18
But in fact, what they said was,
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V skutočnosti však povedali:
09:21
"Leave Doug and come down yourself.
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"Nechaj tak Douga a sám zíď dole.
09:23
There's no chance of saving him,
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Nie je žiadna šanca na jeho záchranu,
09:25
and just try to save yourself at this point."
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a tak sa pokús v tomto momente zachrániť aspoň seba."
09:29
And Rob got that message,
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A Rob dostal tú správu,
09:31
but his answer was,
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ale jeho odpoveď bola
09:34
"We're both listening."
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"Obidvaja počúvame."
09:40
Todd and Pete got up to the summit ridge, up in here,
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Todd a Pete vyliezli k vrcholovému hrebeňu, tu hore
09:43
and it was a scene of complete chaos up there.
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a bol to výjav úplného chaosu tam hore.
09:47
But they did what they could to stabilize the people.
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Ale spravili čo mohli, aby stabilizovali ľudí.
09:50
I gave them radio advice from Camp Three,
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Ja som im dával rady rádiom z tábora tri
09:53
and we sent down the climbers that could make it down
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a poslali sme dole tých lezcov, ktorí to mohli zvládnuť
09:56
under their own power.
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vlastnými silami.
09:58
The ones that couldn't we just sort of decided to leave up at Camp Four.
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Tích, ktorí nemohli, sme sa rozhodli nechať hore v tábore štyri.
10:01
So the climbers were coming down along this route.
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Takže lezci schádzali dolu touto cestou.
10:03
This is taken from Camp Three, where I was.
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Toto je odfotené z tábora tri, kde som bol ja.
10:06
And they all came by me
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A všetci prešli okolo mňa,
10:08
so I could take a look at them and see what I could do for them,
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takže som sa mohol na nich pozrieť a zistiť, čo pre nich môžem urobiť.
10:12
which is really not much, because Camp Three
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V skutočnosti toho nebolo moc, lebo tábor tri
10:14
is a little notch cut in the ice
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je len malý zárez v ľade
10:16
in the middle of a 45-degree angle.
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uprostred 45 stupňového stúpania.
10:18
You can barely stand outside the tent.
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Mimo stanu sa máte ledva kde postaviť.
10:20
It's really cold; it's 24,000 feet.
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Je tam hrozná zima. Je to 7 300 metrov nad morom.
10:22
The only supplies I had at that altitude
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Jediné zásoby čo som mal v tej výške,
10:24
were two plastic bags
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boli dve plastové vrecká
10:26
with preloaded syringes
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so striekačkami predplnenými
10:28
of painkiller and steroids.
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liekmi proti bolesti a steroidmi.
10:31
So, as the climbers came by me,
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Takže, ako lezci chodili okolo mňa,
10:33
I sort of assessed whether or not they were in condition
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hodnotil som či sú, alebo nie sú v stave
10:35
to continue on further down.
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aby pokračovali ďaľej dolu.
10:37
The ones that weren't that lucid or were not that well coordinated,
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Tým, ktorí nemysleli až tak jasne alebo nemali dostatočnú koordináciu,
10:40
I would give an injection of steroids
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som dával injekcie steroidov,
10:43
to try to give them some period
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čím som sa pokúsil dopriať im chvíľku
10:45
of lucidity and coordination
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jasnej mysle a koordinácie,
10:47
where they could then work their way further down the mountain.
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počas ktorej by potom mohli pokračovať v ceste dole horou.
10:50
It's so awkward to work up there that sometimes
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Je to tak neobvyklé pracovať tak vysoko, že niekedy
10:52
I even gave the injections right through their clothes.
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som im dokonca dával injekcie priamo cez ich oblečenie.
10:54
It was just too hard to maneuver
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Bolo príliš ťažké manévrovať tam hore ihlou
10:57
any other way up there.
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akýmkoľvek spôsobom.
10:59
While I was taking care of them,
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Zatiaľ čo som sa o nich staral,
11:01
we got more news about Rob Hall.
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obdržali sme ďaľšie novinky o Robovi Hallovi.
11:03
There was no way we could get up high enough to rescue him.
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Nebola šanca vyliezť dostatočne vysoko aby sme ho zachránili.
11:07
He called in to say that he was alone now.
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Volal, aby nám oznámil, že už zostal sám.
11:10
Apparently, Doug had died higher up on the mountain.
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Doug podľa všetkého zomrel niekde vyššie na kopci.
11:13
But Rob was now too weak to come down himself,
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Ale Rob bol teraz príliš slabý na to, aby sám zišiel dole
11:16
and with the fierce winds and up at that altitude,
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a s takým zúrivým vetrom a v takej výške
11:19
he was just beyond rescue
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bol mimo dosahu záchrany
11:21
and he knew it.
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a on to vedel.
11:23
At that point, he asked
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V tom momente požiadal
11:25
to be paged into his wife.
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o rádiové spojenie so svojou ženou.
11:27
He was carrying a radio.
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Niesol rádio.
11:29
His wife was home in New Zealand,
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Jeho žena bola doma na Novom Zélande,
11:31
seven months pregnant with their first child,
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v siedmom mesiaci tehotenstva s ich prvým dieťaťom.
11:34
and Rob asked to be patched into her. That was done,
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A Rob požiadal, aby bol k nej prepojený. Stalo sa tak.
11:37
and Rob and his wife
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A Rob a jeho žena
11:39
had their last conversation.
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sa rozprávali poslednýkrát.
11:41
They picked the name for their baby.
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Vybrali meno pre ich bábo.
11:43
Rob then signed off,
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Rob potom ukončil spojenie
11:45
and that was the last we ever heard of him.
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a to bolo naposledy, čo sme ho počuli.
11:50
I was faced with treating a lot of critically ill patients
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Bol som nútený liečiť mnohých, ktiricky chorých pacientov
11:53
at 24,000 feet,
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vo výške 7 300 metrov,
11:55
which was an impossibility.
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čo bolo nemožné.
11:57
So what we did was, we got the victims
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Nakoniec sme teda spravili to, že sme obete zobrali
11:59
down to 21,000 feet, where it was easier for me to treat them.
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dole, do výšky 6 400 metrov, kde bolo pre mňa jednoduchšie ošetrovať ich.
12:02
This was my medical kit.
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Toto bola moja zdravotnícka výbava.
12:04
It's a tackle box filled with medical supplies.
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Je to krabica naplnená zdravotníckymi zásobami.
12:07
This is what I carried up the mountain.
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Toto som si zobral na horu.
12:10
I had more supplies lower down,
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Dole som mal viac zásob,
12:12
which I asked to be brought up to meet me at the lower camp.
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ktoré som si vyžiadal doniesť hore do nižšieho tábora.
12:15
And this was scene at the lower camp.
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A toto je scéna v nižšom tábore.
12:17
The survivors came in one by one.
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Tí čo prežili, prichádzali jeden za druhým.
12:20
Some of them were hypothermic,
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Niektorí z nich boli hypotermickí,
12:22
some of them were frostbitten, some were both.
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niektorí mali omrzliny, niektorí oboje.
12:25
What we did was try to warm them up as best we could,
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Robili sme to, že sme sa snažili zahriať ich najlepšie ako sme mohli,
12:28
put oxygen on them and try to revive them,
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dať im kyslík a pokúsiť sa ich vzkriesiť,
12:31
which is difficult to do at 21,000 feet,
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čo je vo výške 6 400 metrov skutočne náročné,
12:34
when the tent is freezing.
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keď stan mrzne.
12:38
This is some severe frostbite on the feet,
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Toto sú niektoré zo silných omrzlín na nohách,
12:41
severe frostbite on the nose.
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silné omrzliny na nose.
12:47
This climber was snow blind.
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Tento lezec trpel snežou slepotou.
12:49
As I was taking care of these climbers,
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Ako som sa tak staral o týchto lezcov,
12:51
we got a startling experience.
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zažili sme niečo úplne výnimočné.
12:56
Out of nowhere, Beck Weathers,
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Z ničoho nič, Beck Weathers,
12:58
who we had already been told was dead,
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o ktorom sme mali už správy že je mŕtvy,
13:01
stumbled into the tent,
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dokrivkal do stanu,
13:04
just like a mummy, he walked into the tent.
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vošiel dnu presne ako múmia.
13:07
I expected him to be incoherent,
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Očakával som, že bude pomätený,
13:09
but, in fact, he walked into the tent and said to me,
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ale v skutočnosti vošiel do stanu a povedal mi:
13:11
"Hi, Ken. Where should I sit?"
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"Ahoj Ken. Kam by som si mohol sadnúť?"
13:14
And then he said,
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A potom povedal:
13:16
"Do you accept my health insurance?"
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"Prijímaš pacientov aj z mojej zdravotnej poisťovne?"
13:18
(Laughter)
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(Smiech)
13:20
He really said that.
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Skutočne to povedal.
13:22
(Laughter)
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(Smiech)
13:24
So he was completely lucid, but he was very severely frostbitten.
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Bol teda úplne pri zmysloch, ale mal veľmi vážne omrzliny.
13:27
You can see his hand is completely white;
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Môžete vidieť, že jeho ruka je úplne biela
13:29
his face, his nose, is burned.
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a jeho tvár, jeho nos sú spálené.
13:31
First, it turns white, and then when it's completed necrosis,
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Najprv tkanivo zbledne, potom keď je kompletne znekrotizované
13:34
it turns black, and then it falls off.
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zčernie a potom odpadáva.
13:37
It's the last stage, just like a scar.
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To je posledné štádium, ako jazva.
13:39
So, as I was taking care of Beck,
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Ako som sa staral o Becka,
13:41
he related what had been going on up there.
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porozprával mi čo sa dialo hore.
13:43
He said he had gotten lost in the storm,
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Vravel, že sa stratil v búrke,
13:46
collapsed in the snow,
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skolaboval do snehu
13:48
and just laid there, unable to move.
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a iba tam ležal, neschopný sa pohnúť.
13:50
Some climbers had come by and looked at him,
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Nejakí lezci išli okolo a pozreli sa na neho
13:53
and he heard them say, "He's dead."
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a on počul ako vravia, "Je mŕtvy."
13:57
But Beck wasn't dead; he heard that,
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Ale Beck nebol mŕtvy, on to počul,
14:00
but he was completely unable to move.
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ale bol úplne neschopný pohybu.
14:02
He was in some sort of catatonic state
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Bol v akomsi katatonickom stave,
14:04
where he could be aware of his surroundings,
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keď mohol vnímať svoje okolie,
14:06
but couldn't even blink to indicate that he was alive.
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ale nemohol ani len žmurknúť, aby dal najavo že žije.
14:09
So the climbers passed him by,
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Lezci ho teda nechali tak
14:12
and Beck lay there for a day, a night
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a Beck tam ležal deň, noc
14:15
and another day,
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a ďaľší deň
14:17
in the snow.
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v snehu.
14:19
And then he said to himself,
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A potom sám sebe povedal,
14:21
"I don't want to die.
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"Nechcem umrieť,
14:23
I have a family to come back to."
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mám rodinu ku ktorej sa chcem vrátiť."
14:25
And the thoughts of his family,
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A myšlienky na jeho rodinu,
14:27
his kids and his wife,
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jeho deti a jeho ženu,
14:29
generated enough energy,
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vygenerovali v ňom dostatok energie,
14:32
enough motivation in him,
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dostatok motívacie,
14:34
so that he actually got up.
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že sa naozaj postavil.
14:36
After laying in the snow that long a time,
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Po tom, čo ležal v snehu tak dlhú dobu,
14:38
he got up and found his way back to the camp.
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sa postavil a našiel si cestu späť do tábora.
14:42
And Beck told me that story very quietly,
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A Beck mi povedal ten príbeh veľmi potichu,
14:44
but I was absolutely stunned by it.
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no bol som ním úplne ohromený.
14:47
I couldn't imagine anybody laying in the snow
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Nedokázal som si predstaviť nikoho ležať v snehu
14:49
that long a time
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tak dlhú dobu
14:51
and then getting up.
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a potom sa postaviť.
14:53
He apparently reversed
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Zjavne zvrátil
14:55
an irreversible hypothermia.
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nezvratnú hypotermiu.
14:58
And I can only try to speculate
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A ja môžem iba špekulovať,
15:01
on how he did it.
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ako sa mu to podarilo.
15:03
So, what if we had Beck
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Takže, čo by sme videli, keby by sme mali Becka
15:05
hooked up to a SPECT scan,
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pripojeného na SPECT sken,
15:07
something that could actually measure brain function?
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niečo čo by mohlo zmerať funkciu mozgu?
15:12
Just very simply, the three parts of the brain:
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Iba veľmi jednoducho, tri časti mozgu:
15:15
the frontal lobe, where you focus
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predný lalok, kde sú sústredené
15:17
your attention and concentration;
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vaša pozornosť a koncentrácia,
15:19
you have the temporal lobe,
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máte spánkový lalok,
15:21
where you form images and keep memories;
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kde sa formujú obrazy a udržiavajú spomienky
15:23
and the posterior part of your brain,
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a zadnú časť mozgu,
15:25
which contains the cerebellum, which controls motion;
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ktorá obsahuje mozoček, ktorý kontoluje pohyb
15:27
and the brain stem,
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a mozgový kmeň,
15:29
where you have your basic maintenance functions,
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kde máte základné fyziologické funkcie
15:31
like heartbeat and respiration.
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ako tep srdca a dýchanie.
15:33
So let's take a cut through the brain here,
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Zoberme si teda prierez mozgu
15:36
and imagine that Beck
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a predstavme si, že Beck
15:38
was hooked up to a SPECT scan.
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bol pripojený k SPECT skenu.
15:40
This measures dynamic blood flow
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Toto meria dynamický tok krvi
15:42
and therefore energy flow within the brain.
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a tým aj tok energie v mozgu.
15:44
So you have the prefrontal cortex here,
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Takže, tu máme prednú kôru
15:46
lighting up in red.
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žiariacu na červeno.
15:48
This is a pretty evenly distributed scan.
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Toto je vcelku rovnomerne rozložený sken.
15:50
You have the middle area,
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Máte strednú oblasť,
15:52
where the temporal lobe might be, in here,
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kde by mohol byť spánkový lalok, tuto
15:54
and the posterior portion, where the maintenance functions are in the back.
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a zadná časť, kde sú základné fyziologické funkcie je vzadu.
15:57
This is a roughly normal scan,
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Toto je približne normálny sken,
15:59
showing equal distribution of energy.
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ukazujúci rovnomerné rozloženie energie.
16:03
Now, you go to this one and you see how much more
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Teraz prejdite k tomuto a vidíte, ako veľmi
16:06
the frontal lobes are lighting up.
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sa predné časti rozsvecujú.
16:08
This might be what Beck would be experiencing
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Toto by mohlo byť to, čo Beck zažíval,
16:10
when he realizes he's in danger.
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keď si uvedomil, že je v nebezpečí.
16:12
He's focusing all his attention
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Sústredí všetku svoju pozornosť
16:14
on getting himself out of trouble.
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na to, aby sa dostal z problémov.
16:16
These parts of the brain are quieting down.
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Tieto časti mozgu utíchajú.
16:19
He's not thinking about his family or anybody else at this point,
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V tomto momente nemyslí na svoju rodinu, alebo kohokoľvek iného
16:22
and he's working pretty hard.
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a snaží sa poriadne silno.
16:24
He's trying to get his muscles going and get out of this.
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Pokúša sa prinútiť svalstvo k pohybu a dostať sa z toho.
16:30
OK, but he's losing ground here.
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Okey. Tu ale stráca silu.
16:33
He's running out of energy.
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Jeho energia sa mu míňa.
16:35
It's too cold; he can't keep his metabolic fires going,
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Je príliš veľká zima. Nemôže udržať svoj metabolický oheň v chode.
16:38
and, you see, there's no more red here;
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A, vidíte, nie je tu už žiadna červená.
16:40
his brain is quieting down.
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Jeho mozog začal utíchať.
16:42
He's collapsed in the snow here. Everything is quiet,
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Tu je skolabovaný v snehu. Všetko je tiché.
16:44
there's very little red anywhere.
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Všade je veľmi málo červenej.
16:47
Beck is powering down.
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Zadná strana sa vypína.
16:49
He's dying.
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Umiera.
16:53
You go on to the next scan,
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Presuňte sa na daľší sken,
16:55
but, in Beck's case,
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ale, v Beckovom prípade,
16:57
you can see that the middle part of his brain
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môžete vidieť, že stredná časť jeho mozgu
16:59
is beginning to light up again.
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sa začína opäť rozsvecovať.
17:02
He's beginning to think about his family.
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Začína rozmýšlať o svojej rodine.
17:04
He's beginning to have images
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Začína vidieť obrazy,
17:06
that are motivating him to get up.
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ktoré ho motivujú k tomu, aby vstal.
17:08
He's developing energy in this area
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Vytvára energiu v tejto oblasti
17:10
through thought.
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pomocou myšlienky.
17:12
And this is how he's going to turn thought
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A toto je spôsob akým ide premeniť myšlienku
17:15
back into action.
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späť na akciu.
17:18
This part of the brain is called the anterior cingulate gyrus.
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Táto časť jeho mozgu sa nazýva anterior cingulate gyrus.
17:20
It's an area in which
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Je to oblasť, v ktorej
17:22
a lot of neuroscientists believe
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podľa domnienky mnoho neurológov
17:25
the seat of will exists.
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sídli centrum vôle.
17:27
This is where people make decisions, where they develop willpower.
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Toto je miesto kde ľudia robia rozhodnutia, kde vytvárajú silu vôle.
17:30
And, you can see, there's an energy flow
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A môžete vidieť, že tam tečie energia
17:32
going from the mid portion of his brain,
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zo strednej časti mozgu,
17:34
where he's got images of his family,
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kde má obrazy svojej rodiny,
17:36
into this area, which is powering his will.
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do tejto oblasti, ktorá poháňa jeho vôľu.
17:41
Okay. This is getting stronger and stronger
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Okey. Toto stále silnie a silnie
17:43
to the point where it's actually
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až do bodu kde sa to skutočne
17:45
going to be a motivating factor.
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mení na motivačný faktor.
17:47
He's going to develop enough energy in that area --
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V tej oblasti vytvorí dostatok energie,
17:49
after a day, a night and a day --
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aby po dni, noci a dni,
17:51
to actually motivate himself to get up.
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motivoval sám seba na to aby vstal.
17:57
And you can see here,
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A tu môžete vidieť,
17:59
he's starting to get more energy into the frontal lobe.
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že začína dostávať viace energie do predného laloku.
18:01
He's beginning to focus, he can concentrate now.
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Začína zaostrovať. Dokáže sa teraz koncentrovať.
18:04
He's thinking about what he's got to do to save himself.
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Rozmýšľa nad tým, čo musí urobiť aby sa zachránil.
18:06
So this energy has been transmitted
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Takže táto energia bola prenesená
18:08
up toward the front of his brain,
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hore do prednej časti jeho mozgu
18:10
and it's getting quieter down here,
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a tu to začína utíchať,
18:12
but he's using this energy
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ale využíva túto energiu
18:14
to think about what he has to do to get himself going.
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na rozmýšľanie nad tým, čo musí robiť, aby sa rozhýbal.
18:17
And then, that energy is sort of spreading
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A potom sa táto energia šíri
18:20
throughout his thought areas.
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po jeho myšlienkovej oblasti.
18:22
He's not thinking about his family now, and he's getting himself motivated.
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Teraz nemyslí na svoju rodinu a motivuje sám seba.
18:25
This is the posterior part, where his muscles are going to be moving,
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Toto je zadná časť, kde sa pripravujú jeho svaly na pohyb,
18:28
and he's going to be pacing himself.
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a kde sa chystá pohnúť sám sebou.
18:30
His heart and lungs are going to pick up speed.
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Jeho srdce a pľúca sa chystajú zrýchliť.
18:33
So this is what I can speculate might have been going on
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Domnievam sa, že toto by sa dialo,
18:36
had we been able to do a SPECT scan on Beck
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keby sme boli schopní urobiť SPECT sken na Beckovi
18:39
during this survival epic.
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počas jeho eposu o prežití.
18:43
So here I am taking care of Beck at 21,000 feet,
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Tak tu sa starám o Becka vo výške 6400 metrov
18:46
and I felt what I was doing was completely trivial
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a cítil som, že to, čo robím je úplne triviálne
18:49
compared to what he had done for himself.
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v porovnaní s tým čo urobil on sám pre seba.
18:51
It just shows you what the power of the mind can do.
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Ukazuje vám to, čo dokáže sila mysle.
18:56
He was critically ill, there were other critically ill patients;
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Bol kriticky chorý. Boli tam ďaľší kriticky chorí pacienti.
18:58
luckily, we were able to get a helicopter
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Našťastie sa nám podarilo získať helikoptéru
19:00
in to rescue these guys.
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na záchranu týchto mužov.
19:03
A helicopter came in at 21,000 feet
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Helikoptéra priletela do výšky 6400 metrov
19:06
and carried out the highest helicopter rescue in history.
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a vykonala záchranu helikoptérou v najvyššej polohe v histórií.
19:10
It was able to land on the ice, take away Beck
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Bola schopná pristáť na ľade, zobrať Becka
19:12
and the other survivors, one by one,
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a ostatných zachránených, jedného po druhom preč
19:15
and get them off to Kathmandu in a clinic
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a dostať ich na kliniku v Kathmandu
19:18
before we even got back to base camp.
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dokonca skôr ako sme my vôbec zišli do základného tábora.
19:21
This is a scene at base camp,
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Toto je scéna v základnom tábore
19:23
at one of the camps
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v jednom z táborov,
19:25
where some of the climbers were lost.
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kde niektorí z lezcov stratili život.
19:27
And we had a memorial service there
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A mali sme tam spomienkovú bohoslužbu
19:29
a few days later.
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o pár dní neskôr.
19:31
These are Serphas lighting juniper branches.
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Toto sú šerpovia zapalujúci borievkové vetvičky.
19:34
They believe juniper smoke is holy.
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Veria že dym z borievky je posvätný.
19:37
And the climbers stood around on the high rocks
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A naokolo, na vysokých skalách, stáli horolezci
19:41
and spoke of the climbers who were lost
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a rozprávali o kolegoch ktorí prišli o život
19:44
up near the summit,
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tam hore, neďaleko vrchola,
19:46
turning to the mountain, actually, to talk to them directly.
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a aby rozprávali priamo k nim, obrátili sa k hore.
19:51
There were five climbers lost here.
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Boli tam stratení piati horolezci.
19:53
This was Scott Fischer,
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Boli to Scott Fischer,
19:58
Rob Hall,
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Rob Hall,
20:00
Andy Harris,
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Andy Harris,
20:02
Doug Hansen
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Doug Hansen,
20:04
and Yasuko Namba.
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a Yasuko Namba.
20:06
And one more climber
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A ešte jeden horolezec
20:08
should have died that day, but didn't,
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mal umrieť toho dňa, ale nestalo sa tak
20:11
and that's Beck Weathers.
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a to bol Beck Weathers.
20:14
He was able to survive
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Bol schopný prežiť
20:16
because he was able to generate that incredible willpower,
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lebo bol schopný vygenerovať tak neuveriteľnú silu vôle,
20:19
he was able to use all the power of his mind
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bol schopný použiť všetku silu svojho vedomia
20:22
to save himself.
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na to aby sa zachránil.
20:25
These are Tibetan prayer flags.
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Toto sú Tibetské modlitebné vlajočky.
20:27
These Sherpas believe that
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Títo šerpovia veria,
20:29
if you write prayers on these flags,
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že ak napíšete svoje modlitby na tieto vlajočky,
20:31
the message will be carried up to the gods,
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správa bude vynesená hore k bohom
20:34
and that year, Beck's message was answered.
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a v tom roku, bola vypočutá Beckova správa.
20:38
Thank you.
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Ďakujem.
20:40
(Applause)
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(Potlesk)
O tomto webe

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