Ken Kamler: Medical miracle on Everest

107,633 views ・ 2010-03-18

TED


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翻译人员: Zachary Lin Zhao 校对人员: Angelia King
00:15
OK. We've heard a lot of people
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在这次的会议上,
00:18
speak at this conference
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我们已经听到了很多人
00:20
about the power of the human mind.
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讲解人类意志的力量。
00:23
And what I'd like to do today
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而我今天想做的
00:25
is give you a vivid example
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就是带给你们一个鲜明的例子,
00:27
of how that power can be unleashed
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它展示人们是如何在亟需生存的环境下
00:29
when someone is in a survival situation,
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释放这种力量的,
00:32
how the will to survive can bring that out in people.
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以及这种力量是如何被生存的欲望所激发。
00:36
This is an incident which occurred on Mount Everest;
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这是发生在珠穆朗玛峰上的一个事件。
00:39
it was the worst disaster in the history of Everest.
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它是珠穆朗玛历史上最惨重的灾难。
00:43
And when it occurred, I was the only doctor on the mountain.
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灾难发生时,我是珠峰上唯一的医生。
00:46
So I'll take you through that
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所以我将带领你们重温那次灾难,
00:48
and we'll see what it's like
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身临其境地去感受一下。
00:51
when someone really
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当人们唤醒自身对生存的渴求时,
00:53
summons the will to survive.
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究竟是怎样的一种情形。
00:55
OK, this is Mount Everest.
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这就是珠穆朗玛峰。
00:57
It's 29,035 feet high.
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海拔29035英尺。
00:59
I've been there six times: Four times I did work with National Geographic,
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我总共去过那里六次。四次是跟着国家地理
01:02
making tectonic plate measurements;
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丈量构造板块。
01:04
twice, I went with NASA
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两次是跟着美国航天局
01:06
doing remote sensing devices.
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研究远程感测系统。
01:09
It was on my fourth trip to Everest
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在我第四次珠穆朗玛之行的时候,
01:11
that a comet passed over the mountain. Hyakutake.
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一个彗星,百武彗星划过峰顶。
01:14
And the Sherpas told us then
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随行的夏尔巴人告诉我们
01:16
that was a very bad omen,
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这是个凶兆,
01:18
and we should have listened to them.
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事后想想,我们真应该听从他们的意见。
01:20
Everest is an extreme environment.
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珠穆朗玛是个极端的环境。
01:23
There's only one-third as much oxygen at the summit as there is at sea level.
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峰顶的氧气只是海平面的三分之一。
01:26
Near the summit, temperatures
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靠近峰顶的地方,
01:28
can be 40 degrees below zero.
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气温可以到达零下40度。
01:30
You can have winds 20 to 40 miles an hour.
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风速有时高达每小时20到40英里。
01:32
It's actually a wind-chill factor
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这其实是“风冷因素”,
01:34
which is lower than a summer day on Mars.
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它要比火星上的夏天还要寒冷。
01:38
I remember one time being up near the summit,
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我记得有一次,在离峰顶不远的地方,
01:40
I reached into my down jacket
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我伸手到我的鸭绒衣里
01:42
for a drink from my water bottle,
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想拿出我的水壶喝口水,
01:44
inside my down jacket,
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当时我的水壶是在我的鸭绒衣里,
01:46
only to discover that the water was already frozen solid.
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但我伸手进去的时候却发现水壶里的水已经冰冻如石了。
01:49
That gives you an idea of just how severe
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你们由此可以想象峰顶的环境
01:51
things are near the summit.
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是何等的恶劣。
01:55
OK, this is the route up Everest.
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这就是登顶的线路图。
01:57
It starts at base camp, at 17,500 feet.
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从17500英尺的大本营开始。
02:01
Camp One, 2,000 feet higher.
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2000英尺之上是一号营地,
02:04
Camp Two, another 2,000 feet higher up,
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再往上2000英尺是二号营地
02:06
what's called the Western Cwm.
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昵称“西库姆冰斗”。
02:08
CampThree is at the base of Lhotse,
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三号营是在洛子峰的山脚。
02:10
which is the fourth highest mountain in the world, but it's dwarfed by Everest.
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洛子峰是世界上第四高的山峰,但和珠穆朗玛峰相比,还是小巫见大巫了。
02:13
And then Camp Four is the highest camp;
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四号营是最高的营地。
02:16
that's 3,000 feet short of the summit.
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距离峰顶只有3000英尺。
02:20
This is a view of base camp.
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这就是大本营,
02:22
This is pitched on a glacier at 17,500 feet.
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搭建在17500英尺高的冰川上。
02:25
It's the highest point you can bring your yaks
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这大本营就是你随行的牦牛所能攀爬的最高点,
02:27
before you have to unload.
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在这之后你就不得不卸下行囊。
02:29
And this is what they unloaded for me:
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而这就是我当时所卸下来的东西。
02:31
I had four yak loads of medical supplies,
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我一共带了四个牦牛才能承载的医疗用品,
02:33
which are dumped in a tent,
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全部被转放在一个帐篷里。
02:35
and here I am trying to arrange things.
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这是我在整理杂物。
02:38
This was our expedition.
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这是我们的探险队。
02:40
It was a National Geographic expedition,
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它是一个国家地理的探险队,
02:42
but it was organized by The Explorers Club.
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不过是由探险者俱乐部组织的。
02:44
There were three other expeditions on the mountain,
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当时还有其他的三个探险队在山上,
02:46
an American team, a New Zealand team
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一个美国队,一个新西兰队,
02:48
and an IMAX team.
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还有一个IMAX电影摄像队。
02:52
And, after actually two months of preparation,
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经过两个月的准备,
02:55
we built our camps all the way up the mountain.
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我们一路搭建帐篷直奔山顶。
02:58
This is a view looking up the icefall,
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这是仰望“冰布”的景象。
03:00
the first 2,000 feet of the climb
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它是从大本营算起的
03:02
up from base camp.
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首个2000英尺攀爬。
03:05
And here's a picture in the icefall;
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这是一幅冰布内部的照片。
03:07
it's a waterfall, but it's frozen, but it moves very slowly,
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它其实是一个瀑布,但已经被冻结,很缓慢地流动着,
03:10
and it actually changes every day.
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而且每天都会有变化。
03:12
When you're in it, you're like a rat in a maze;
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当你深处其中的时候,感觉就好像是一只在迷宫里的老鼠一样,
03:14
you can't even see over the top.
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甚至无法看到顶端。
03:17
This is near the top of the icefall.
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这是距离冰布顶部很近的地方。
03:19
You want to climb through at night when the ice is frozen.
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要等到夜晚降临,冰全部冻结的时候,才可以爬过去,
03:22
That way, it's less likely to tumble down on you.
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以避免冰块在你脚下分裂。
03:24
These are some climbers reaching the top of the icefall just at sun-up.
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这是些在日出时,登上冰布顶的攀爬者们。
03:30
This is me crossing a crevasse.
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这是我跨越一个裂缝。
03:32
We cross on aluminum ladders with safety ropes attached.
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我们攀爬一个有安全绳索的铝制梯子。
03:37
That's another crevasse.
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这是另一个裂缝。
03:39
Some of these things are 10 stories deep or more,
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有些裂缝有十层楼那么深,甚至更深。
03:41
and one of my climbing friends says that
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跟我同行的攀爬者说
03:43
the reason we actually climb at night
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我们之所以选择在夜晚攀爬
03:45
is because if we ever saw the bottom
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是因为如果我们可以清楚看见
03:47
of what we're climbing over,
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我们所攀爬的裂缝的底部的话,
03:49
we would never do it.
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我们是打死也不会爬过去的。
03:52
Okay. This is Camp One.
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这就是一号营。
03:54
It's the first flat spot you can reach
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是在爬过冰布顶部之后
03:56
after you get up to the top of the icefall.
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遇到的第一块平地。
03:59
And from there we climb up to Camp Two,
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从那里,我们继续爬往二号营,
04:02
which is sort of the foreground.
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看起来好像是前景。
04:04
These are climbers moving up the Lhotse face,
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这些登山者正沿着洛子峰
04:06
that mountain toward Camp Three.
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爬往第三营。
04:08
They're on fixed ropes here.
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他们捆绑着固定的绳索。
04:10
A fall here, if you weren't roped in,
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如果你在这里跌倒,身上又没有保护绳索的话,
04:12
would be 5,000 feet down.
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迎接你的将是5000英尺的坠落。
04:16
This is a view taken from camp three.
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这是三号营的照片。
04:18
You can see the Lhotse face is in profile,
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你可以看到洛子峰的侧面。
04:20
it's about a 45 degree angle. It takes two days to climb it,
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45度的仰角,要花两天的时间才能爬到顶。
04:23
so you put the camp halfway through.
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所以你得在半途中驻扎营地。
04:25
If you notice, the summit of Everest is black.
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如果你仔细看的话,会发现珠穆朗玛的峰顶是黑色的。
04:27
There's no ice over it.
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上面并没有冰的覆盖。
04:29
And that's because Everest is so high,
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这是因为珠穆朗玛是如此之高,
04:31
it's in the jet stream,
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它处于急流层,
04:33
and winds are constantly scouring the face,
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狂风不停地席卷着表面,
04:35
so no snow gets to accumulate.
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因此没有积雪的残留。
04:37
What looks like a cloud behind the summit ridge
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山脊后面那看起来像云彩的东西
04:39
is actually snow being blown off the summit.
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实际上是被风吹散的白雪。
04:45
This is on the way up from Camp Three to Camp Four,
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这是有三号营攀往四号营,
04:47
moving in, up through the clouds.
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穿过云层。
04:52
And this is at Camp Four.
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这是四号营。
04:54
Once you get to Camp Four, you have maybe 24 hours
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一旦你抵达四号营,你只有大概24个小时的时间
04:57
to decide if you're going to go for the summit or not.
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来决定你是否要登顶。
04:59
Everybody's on oxygen, your supplies are limited,
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因为每个人都需要氧气罩。而氧气存量又是有限的。
05:02
and you either have to go up or go down,
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所以你必须快速做出决定,
05:04
make that decision very quickly.
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要么登顶,要么下山。
05:07
This is a picture of Rob Hall.
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这是Rob Hall的照片。
05:09
He was the leader of the New Zealand team.
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他是新西兰队的领头人。
05:11
This is a radio he used later to call his wife
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这是他后来用来给他妻子打电话的收音机,
05:13
that I'll tell you about.
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我等一下会跟你们详细介绍。
05:17
These are some climbers waiting to go to the summit.
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这是些等着登顶的登山者们。
05:19
They're up at Camp Four, and you can see that there's wind blowing off the summit.
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他们正在四号营。你们可以看到,冷风正吹过峰顶。
05:22
This is not good weather to climb in,
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这种天气并不利于登山,
05:24
so the climbers are just waiting, hoping that the wind's going to die down.
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所以这些登山者们只是等候者,期盼寒风可以减缓。
05:29
And, in fact, the wind does die down at night.
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事实上,大风在那晚的确是减弱了。
05:31
It becomes very calm, there's no wind at all.
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变得非常平静。根本是一点风都没有。
05:33
This looks like a good chance to go for the summit.
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看上去是登顶的绝佳良机。
05:36
So here are some climbers starting out for the summit
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这里看到就是一些开始向峰顶前进的登山者们,
05:38
on what's called the Triangular Face.
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他们所攀爬的就是所谓的“三角峰面”。
05:40
It's the first part of climb.
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这只是登顶的第一步。
05:42
It's done in the dark, because it's actually less steep than what comes next,
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这是在夜间进行的,因为随后的登程要比这个陡很多,
05:44
and you can gain daylight hours if you do this in the dark.
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所以在夜间出发的话,就可以稍后获取宝贵的日光。
05:48
So that's what happened.
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这就是当时的情形。
05:50
The climbers got on the southeast ridge.
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登山者们登上东南山脊,
05:52
This is the view looking at the southeast ridge.
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这是瞭望东南山脊的景象。
05:54
The summit would be in the foreground.
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峰顶就在前景中。
05:56
From here, it's about 1,500 feet
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从这里算起,距离峰顶大概是1500英尺
05:59
up at a 30-degree angle to the summit.
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30度仰角的攀爬。
06:04
But what happened that year was
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但那年所发生的事情是
06:06
the wind suddenly and unexpectedly picked up.
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风速突然意想不到地加大。
06:08
A storm blew in that no one was anticipating.
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暴风在无人预知的情况下突袭。
06:11
You can see here some ferocious winds
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你在这里看到一些狂风暴雪
06:13
blowing snow way high off the summit.
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席卷峰顶。
06:16
And there were climbers on that summit ridge.
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而登山者们就在那个峰顶脊梁上。
06:20
This is a picture of me in that area
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这是一张我一年前
06:22
taken a year before,
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在那个区域拍摄的照片。
06:24
and you can see I've got an oxygen mask on
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你可以看到我带着氧气罩
06:27
with a rebreather.
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和呼吸器。
06:29
I have an oxygen hose connected here.
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我有一个氧气栓连在这里。
06:31
You can see on this climber, we have two oxygen tanks in the backpack --
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你可以看到在这个登山者的背包中有两个氧气罐,
06:34
little titanium tanks, very lightweight --
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小的钛金罐,非常轻便。
06:36
and we're not carrying much else.
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我们也没有携带过多的其他东西。
06:38
This is all you've got. You're very exposed on the summit ridge.
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这就是你所需的一起。在峰顶脊梁上,你的一切都暴露在外。
06:41
OK, this is a view taken on the summit ridge itself.
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这是站在峰顶脊梁上拍摄的一张照片。
06:44
This is on the way toward the summit,
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这是前往峰顶的路上
06:46
on that 1,500-foot bridge.
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经过那个1500英尺的链接路。
06:49
All the climbers here are climbing unroped,
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所有的登山者都没有捆绑绳索,
06:51
and the reason is because
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原因是因为
06:53
the drop off is so sheer on either side
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两边都极其陡峭,
06:55
that if you were roped to somebody,
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如果你和他人用绳索连在一起的话,
06:57
you'd wind up just pulling them off with you.
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一旦失足,会连同其他人一起坠下山。
06:59
So each person climbs individually.
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所以每个人都是单独攀登。
07:01
And it's not a straight path at all,
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而且攀登的线路并不是一条直线。
07:04
it's very difficult climbing,
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这是非常艰难的攀爬,
07:07
and there's always the risk
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总是有
07:09
of falling on either side.
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坠入两边的风险。
07:11
If you fall to your left, you're going to fall
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如果你坠向左边,你将下落
07:13
8,000 feet into Nepal;
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8000英尺到达尼泊尔。
07:15
if you fall to your right,
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如果你坠向右边,你将下落
07:17
you're going to fall 12,000 feet into Tibet.
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12000英尺到达西藏。
07:20
So it's probably better to fall into Tibet
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所以还是跌入西藏比较好
07:22
because you'll live longer.
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至少你能多活一段时间(多活4000英尺)。
07:24
(Laughter)
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(笑声)
07:29
But, either way, you fall for the rest of your life.
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但不管怎样,你都将坠向死亡。
07:33
OK. Those climbers were up near the summit,
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这些登山者们即将到达顶峰,
07:35
along that summit ridge that you see up there,
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沿着你们看到的那条峰顶脊梁而行进着,
07:39
and I was down here in Camp Three.
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而我当时则是身处下方的三号营。
07:41
My expedition was down in Camp Three,
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我的探险队当时在三号营,
07:44
while these guys were up there in the storm.
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而这些登山者则是陷在暴风中。
07:46
The storm was so fierce that we had to lay,
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那场暴风是如此猛烈,我们不得不全身躺下,
07:49
fully dressed, fully equipped,
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全副武装地
07:51
laid out on the tent floor
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躺在帐篷里
07:53
to stop the tent from blowing off the mountain.
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以防止帐篷被吹走。
07:55
It was the worst winds I've ever seen.
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那是我所见过的最恶劣的暴风。
07:57
And the climbers up on the ridge
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而那些峰脊上的登山者们
08:00
were that much higher, 2,000 feet higher,
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则是身处高处,比我们所在地还要高2000英尺的地方,
08:02
and completely exposed to the elements.
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并完全地暴露在暴风雪之中。
08:06
We were in radio contact with some of them.
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我们通过无线电和他们中的一些人保持着联系。
08:08
This is a view taken along the summit ridge.
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这是沿着峰脊所拍摄的一张照片。
08:11
Rob Hall, we heard by radio,
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我们从无线电中收听到说
08:13
was up here, at this point in the storm
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Rob Hall此时正在峰脊上,身处暴风中,
08:16
with Doug Hansen.
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Doug Hansen也和他在一起。
08:18
And we heard that Rob was OK,
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我们听说Rob还可以,
08:20
but Doug was too weak to come down.
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但是Doug身体过虚,无法下山来。
08:22
He was exhausted, and Rob was staying with him.
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他已经精疲力竭了。Rob就呆在他的身边。
08:26
We also got some bad news in the storm
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我们也听到了一些其他关于暴风的坏消息。
08:28
that Beck Weathers, another climber,
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另一位登山者Beck Weathers
08:31
had collapsed in the snow and was dead.
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当时已经倒在雪中,不幸逝世了。
08:34
There were still 18 other climbers
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还有另外18位登山者
08:36
that we weren't aware of their condition.
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所处情况我们当时不得而知。
08:40
They were lost. There was total confusion on the mountain;
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他们迷失了。山上一片迷茫。
08:44
all the stories were confusing, most of them were conflicting.
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各项信息都令人费解,而且很多又是相互矛盾。
08:47
We really had no idea what was going on during that storm.
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我们真的对暴风中的一切一无所知。
08:50
We were just hunkered down
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我们只是困守在
08:52
in our tents at Camp Three.
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三号营的帐篷里。
08:54
Our two strongest climbers, Todd Burleson and Pete Athans,
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我们中最强壮的两个登山者Todd Burleson和Pete Athans
08:57
decided to go up to try to rescue who they could
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决定登顶去尝试援救可能援救的人,
09:00
even though there was a ferocious storm going.
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虽然说当时的暴风依旧是格外猛烈。
09:03
They tried to radio a message to Rob Hall,
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他们试着给Rob Hall发送无线电信息。
09:06
who was a superb climber
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Rob Hall是个杰出的登山者,
09:09
stuck, sort of, with a weak climber
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不过当时却是和一个相对较弱的登山者
09:11
up near the summit.
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困在了峰顶附近。
09:13
I expected them to say to Rob,
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我当时以为他们会对Rob说
09:15
"Hold on. We're coming."
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“坚持。我们马上就来。”
09:18
But in fact, what they said was,
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但事实上,他们说的是
09:21
"Leave Doug and come down yourself.
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“丢下Doug,你自己下山来。
09:23
There's no chance of saving him,
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现在已经没有拯救他的机会了,
09:25
and just try to save yourself at this point."
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最重要的是拯救你自己。”
09:29
And Rob got that message,
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Rob收到了那条信息,
09:31
but his answer was,
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但他的回复是:
09:34
"We're both listening."
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“我们两个人都在收听这条信息。”
09:40
Todd and Pete got up to the summit ridge, up in here,
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Todd和Pete最终抵达了峰脊,
09:43
and it was a scene of complete chaos up there.
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迎接他们的是一片混乱。
09:47
But they did what they could to stabilize the people.
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但是他们还是竭尽所能稳定周边的人员。
09:50
I gave them radio advice from Camp Three,
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我从三号营通过无线电向他们传送建议,
09:53
and we sent down the climbers that could make it down
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我们让那些有能力自己下山的人员
09:56
under their own power.
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自行下山。
09:58
The ones that couldn't we just sort of decided to leave up at Camp Four.
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那些不能自己下山的人,我们决定将他们暂时搁放在四号营。
10:01
So the climbers were coming down along this route.
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所以登山者们是沿着这条线路下来的。
10:03
This is taken from Camp Three, where I was.
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这是在三号营,我当时的所在地,拍摄的照片。
10:06
And they all came by me
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他们都来到我身边,
10:08
so I could take a look at them and see what I could do for them,
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以便于我检查他们,看看有什么是我可以做的。
10:12
which is really not much, because Camp Three
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但我所能做的其实不多,因为三号营
10:14
is a little notch cut in the ice
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是在45度的冰面上
10:16
in the middle of a 45-degree angle.
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凿出来一个小洞。
10:18
You can barely stand outside the tent.
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现站在帐篷外面都难,
10:20
It's really cold; it's 24,000 feet.
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因为实在是太冷了。而且又是在24000英尺的高地上。
10:22
The only supplies I had at that altitude
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在当时那个海拔上,我唯一的医疗器材
10:24
were two plastic bags
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就是两个塑料袋中
10:26
with preloaded syringes
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事先装好了止痛药和类固醇的
10:28
of painkiller and steroids.
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针筒。
10:31
So, as the climbers came by me,
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所以这些登山者来到我身边,
10:33
I sort of assessed whether or not they were in condition
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由我来检测他们是否适合
10:35
to continue on further down.
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继续向山下行进。
10:37
The ones that weren't that lucid or were not that well coordinated,
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对于那些已经不太清醒的,手脚不太协调了的,
10:40
I would give an injection of steroids
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我就会注射一针类固醇,
10:43
to try to give them some period
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来帮助他们暂时恢复
10:45
of lucidity and coordination
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一些清醒和协调性,
10:47
where they could then work their way further down the mountain.
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这样他们可以继续向山下行进。
10:50
It's so awkward to work up there that sometimes
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在那么高的地方医治有时候是相当困难的。
10:52
I even gave the injections right through their clothes.
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我甚至不得不直接将针管插过他们的衣服来进行注射。
10:54
It was just too hard to maneuver
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在那种高度下,任何其他的办法
10:57
any other way up there.
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都很难奏效。
10:59
While I was taking care of them,
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正当我照顾这些病人的时候,
11:01
we got more news about Rob Hall.
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我们得到了关于Rob Hall的最新消息。
11:03
There was no way we could get up high enough to rescue him.
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在当时,我们是无论如何也无法及时赶到他所在的高度去援救他。
11:07
He called in to say that he was alone now.
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他打电话进来,告诉我们说他现在是独自一人。
11:10
Apparently, Doug had died higher up on the mountain.
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很显然,Doug已经在峰上的某个更高处离世了。
11:13
But Rob was now too weak to come down himself,
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但Rob现在已经变得无比虚弱,无法自己爬下山来。
11:16
and with the fierce winds and up at that altitude,
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更要命的是,风依旧是如此猛烈,他又在如此高的海拔上,
11:19
he was just beyond rescue
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他是彻底无救了,
11:21
and he knew it.
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而他自己也清楚这一点。
11:23
At that point, he asked
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在那种情况下,
11:25
to be paged into his wife.
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他请求联系他的妻子。
11:27
He was carrying a radio.
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他当时携带着一个收音机。
11:29
His wife was home in New Zealand,
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她的妻子正守在新西兰的家中,
11:31
seven months pregnant with their first child,
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怀着他们七个月大的第一个孩子。
11:34
and Rob asked to be patched into her. That was done,
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Rob请求和她连线。我们达成了他的请求。
11:37
and Rob and his wife
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之后Rob和他的妻子
11:39
had their last conversation.
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进行了最后的一次谈话,
11:41
They picked the name for their baby.
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为他们的孩子选好了名字。
11:43
Rob then signed off,
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随后Rob就挂断了,
11:45
and that was the last we ever heard of him.
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而那也是我们最后一次听到他的声音。
11:50
I was faced with treating a lot of critically ill patients
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我当时所面临的是近乎不可能完成的医疗任务──
11:53
at 24,000 feet,
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在24000英尺的海拔上
11:55
which was an impossibility.
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医治一群病重的患者。
11:57
So what we did was, we got the victims
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所以我们到头来做的是,是把这些患者
11:59
down to 21,000 feet, where it was easier for me to treat them.
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带到21000英尺的海拔。那里更方便我来医治他们。
12:02
This was my medical kit.
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这就是我当时的医疗箱,
12:04
It's a tackle box filled with medical supplies.
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是一个装满了医疗器备的钓具箱。
12:07
This is what I carried up the mountain.
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这就是我带上山的一切,
12:10
I had more supplies lower down,
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我在山下有更多的器备。
12:12
which I asked to be brought up to meet me at the lower camp.
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我已经叫人把这些器备带到低处的营地以便我随后使用。
12:15
And this was scene at the lower camp.
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而就是当时在低处营地的场景。
12:17
The survivors came in one by one.
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幸存者们一个个地走进来。
12:20
Some of them were hypothermic,
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他们有些人体温过低,
12:22
some of them were frostbitten, some were both.
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有些人生了冻疮,而有的则是两者皆具。
12:25
What we did was try to warm them up as best we could,
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我们试着尽可能地让他们身体暖和起来,
12:28
put oxygen on them and try to revive them,
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给他们氧气,帮助他们呼吸,
12:31
which is difficult to do at 21,000 feet,
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这在21000英尺的海拔上,
12:34
when the tent is freezing.
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在冰冷的帐篷中,并不是一件容易的事。
12:38
This is some severe frostbite on the feet,
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这是脚上的严重冻伤,
12:41
severe frostbite on the nose.
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还有鼻子上的严重冻伤。
12:47
This climber was snow blind.
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这个登山者患上了雪盲症。
12:49
As I was taking care of these climbers,
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正当我医治这些登山者的时候,
12:51
we got a startling experience.
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不可思议的事情发生了。
12:56
Out of nowhere, Beck Weathers,
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Beck Weather不知从哪里钻了出来,
12:58
who we had already been told was dead,
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我们之前被告知说他已经离世了,
13:01
stumbled into the tent,
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不过他现在竟然像一个木乃伊一样
13:04
just like a mummy, he walked into the tent.
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跌跌跄跄地走进了帐篷中。
13:07
I expected him to be incoherent,
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我本以为他会口齿不清,
13:09
but, in fact, he walked into the tent and said to me,
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但事实上他走进帐篷,对我说到:
13:11
"Hi, Ken. Where should I sit?"
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“嘿,Ken。我应该坐在哪里?”
13:14
And then he said,
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随后他又说到:
13:16
"Do you accept my health insurance?"
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“你接受我的医保不?”
13:18
(Laughter)
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(笑声)
13:20
He really said that.
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那真是他的原话。
13:22
(Laughter)
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(笑声)
13:24
So he was completely lucid, but he was very severely frostbitten.
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虽然他当时神智很清醒,但却被严重冻伤。
13:27
You can see his hand is completely white;
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你们可以看到,他的手已经全白了,
13:29
his face, his nose, is burned.
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他的脸和鼻子则是被灼伤了。
13:31
First, it turns white, and then when it's completed necrosis,
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它先会变白,当到达坏疽的阶段时,
13:34
it turns black, and then it falls off.
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它则会变黑,随后脱落。
13:37
It's the last stage, just like a scar.
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这是最后的阶段,就像个结疤一样。
13:39
So, as I was taking care of Beck,
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就在我照顾Beck的时候,
13:41
he related what had been going on up there.
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他向我重述了在峰上所发生的一切。
13:43
He said he had gotten lost in the storm,
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他说他迷失在暴风中,
13:46
collapsed in the snow,
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瘫在了雪中,
13:48
and just laid there, unable to move.
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然后就躺在那里,无法移动。
13:50
Some climbers had come by and looked at him,
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有些登山者经过他身旁,打量了他一番,
13:53
and he heard them say, "He's dead."
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然后他听到他们说,“他已经死了。”
13:57
But Beck wasn't dead; he heard that,
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但Beck当时并没有死,他可以听清他们的谈话,
14:00
but he was completely unable to move.
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不过他完全无法移动。
14:02
He was in some sort of catatonic state
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他处于一种强直性昏厥的状态──
14:04
where he could be aware of his surroundings,
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可以感知身边的环境,
14:06
but couldn't even blink to indicate that he was alive.
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却无法通过眨眼这样简单的事情来告诉别人他还活着。
14:09
So the climbers passed him by,
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所以登山者们离他而去,
14:12
and Beck lay there for a day, a night
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Beck躺在那里,一天,一夜,
14:15
and another day,
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又一天,
14:17
in the snow.
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在白雪中。
14:19
And then he said to himself,
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但他告诉自己说:
14:21
"I don't want to die.
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“我不想死。
14:23
I have a family to come back to."
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我的家人还在等着我。”
14:25
And the thoughts of his family,
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他对他家人、他的孩子、
14:27
his kids and his wife,
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他的妻子的思念之情
14:29
generated enough energy,
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给予了他充足的力量,
14:32
enough motivation in him,
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激发了他的动力,
14:34
so that he actually got up.
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于是他终于站了起来。
14:36
After laying in the snow that long a time,
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在雪中躺了那么长一段时间后,
14:38
he got up and found his way back to the camp.
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他站了起来,并且找到了回营地的路。
14:42
And Beck told me that story very quietly,
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Beck轻声地向我讲述着这个故事,
14:44
but I was absolutely stunned by it.
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但我却完全被其打动了。
14:47
I couldn't imagine anybody laying in the snow
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我无法想象任何人可以在雪中
14:49
that long a time
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瘫痪那么久,
14:51
and then getting up.
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却依旧可以站起来。
14:53
He apparently reversed
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很明显,他逆转了
14:55
an irreversible hypothermia.
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无法逆转的过低体温。
14:58
And I can only try to speculate
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而我现在只能猜测
15:01
on how he did it.
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他是如何做到这一点的。
15:03
So, what if we had Beck
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如果我们将Beck连到一个电脑扫描仪上,
15:05
hooked up to a SPECT scan,
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来观测他当时的脑部活动,
15:07
something that could actually measure brain function?
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我们会看到什么呢?
15:12
Just very simply, the three parts of the brain:
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这是简化了的大脑的三个部分:
15:15
the frontal lobe, where you focus
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额叶──
15:17
your attention and concentration;
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用来集中注意力的组织;
15:19
you have the temporal lobe,
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颞叶──
15:21
where you form images and keep memories;
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用来构建影像、存储记忆的组织;
15:23
and the posterior part of your brain,
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而在大脑的后部,
15:25
which contains the cerebellum, which controls motion;
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有控制行动的小脑,
15:27
and the brain stem,
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以及协调如心跳、呼吸等
15:29
where you have your basic maintenance functions,
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这些基本生命机理的
15:31
like heartbeat and respiration.
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脑干。
15:33
So let's take a cut through the brain here,
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所以让我们在这里截取这个大脑的横切片,
15:36
and imagine that Beck
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想象着Beck就连在
15:38
was hooked up to a SPECT scan.
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这个大脑扫描仪上,
15:40
This measures dynamic blood flow
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测量着动态血液流动,
15:42
and therefore energy flow within the brain.
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也就是大脑中的能量流动。
15:44
So you have the prefrontal cortex here,
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这里,前额的大量活动
15:46
lighting up in red.
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呈现红色。
15:48
This is a pretty evenly distributed scan.
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这是一个分配相对平均的脑切片。
15:50
You have the middle area,
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大脑的中部在这里,
15:52
where the temporal lobe might be, in here,
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颞叶可能就在这里,
15:54
and the posterior portion, where the maintenance functions are in the back.
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这是后脑的部分,基本机理的维护都在后面。
15:57
This is a roughly normal scan,
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这是一个比较正常的脑切片,
15:59
showing equal distribution of energy.
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能量分布地很平均。
16:03
Now, you go to this one and you see how much more
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再来看看这张切片,
16:06
the frontal lobes are lighting up.
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额叶是格外的兴奋。
16:08
This might be what Beck would be experiencing
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而这就有可能是当Beck意识到自己身处险境时,
16:10
when he realizes he's in danger.
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所经历的事情。
16:12
He's focusing all his attention
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他集中了他所有的注意力,
16:14
on getting himself out of trouble.
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一心只想脱离险境。
16:16
These parts of the brain are quieting down.
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大脑这些部分的活动都被减缓。
16:19
He's not thinking about his family or anybody else at this point,
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在这种状况下,他并没有在想着他的家人或是其他任何人,
16:22
and he's working pretty hard.
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而是在竭尽全力抗争着。
16:24
He's trying to get his muscles going and get out of this.
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他正试着重新激活他的肌肉,脱离险境。
16:30
OK, but he's losing ground here.
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不过他开始败退下来,
16:33
He's running out of energy.
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他没有足够的能量。
16:35
It's too cold; he can't keep his metabolic fires going,
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天气过于寒冷,他无法维持他的新陈代谢。
16:38
and, you see, there's no more red here;
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如你所见,这里不再是红色的了。
16:40
his brain is quieting down.
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他的大脑开始安静下来。
16:42
He's collapsed in the snow here. Everything is quiet,
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他瘫在了雪中。一切都变得鸦雀无声。
16:44
there's very little red anywhere.
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红色的部分一点点消逝。
16:47
Beck is powering down.
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Beck的能量一点点流失。
16:49
He's dying.
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他正一步步接近死亡。
16:53
You go on to the next scan,
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不过当我们来到下一张脑切片,
16:55
but, in Beck's case,
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我们会看到
16:57
you can see that the middle part of his brain
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Beck大脑的中间部分
16:59
is beginning to light up again.
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又变得兴奋起来。
17:02
He's beginning to think about his family.
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他还是回想他的家人。
17:04
He's beginning to have images
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他脑中浮现家人的各种影像
17:06
that are motivating him to get up.
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激励他站起来。
17:08
He's developing energy in this area
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仅仅通过思考,
17:10
through thought.
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他在这个区域中聚集了能量。
17:12
And this is how he's going to turn thought
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这就是他如何将思想
17:15
back into action.
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转化为行动。
17:18
This part of the brain is called the anterior cingulate gyrus.
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这部分的大脑被称为带状前回。
17:20
It's an area in which
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很多脑部专家相信
17:22
a lot of neuroscientists believe
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这个区域
17:25
the seat of will exists.
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就是人类意志的所在。
17:27
This is where people make decisions, where they develop willpower.
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这是人们做决定、培养意志的地方。
17:30
And, you can see, there's an energy flow
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而且如你们所见,一股能量
17:32
going from the mid portion of his brain,
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正从充满他家人影像的大脑中部
17:34
where he's got images of his family,
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流向
17:36
into this area, which is powering his will.
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掌管其意志的区域。
17:41
Okay. This is getting stronger and stronger
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而这股能量变得越来越强壮
17:43
to the point where it's actually
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直到它变成了
17:45
going to be a motivating factor.
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一个激励他的因素。
17:47
He's going to develop enough energy in that area --
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在一天、一夜、又一天之后
17:49
after a day, a night and a day --
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他将在那个区域积攒足够的能量
17:51
to actually motivate himself to get up.
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来激励他站起来。
17:57
And you can see here,
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如你所见,
17:59
he's starting to get more energy into the frontal lobe.
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他的额叶开始集聚更多的能量。
18:01
He's beginning to focus, he can concentrate now.
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他开始集中精力。他现在可以全神贯注了。
18:04
He's thinking about what he's got to do to save himself.
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他在考虑如何拯救自己。
18:06
So this energy has been transmitted
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所以这股能量已经被转移到
18:08
up toward the front of his brain,
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他大脑的前部,
18:10
and it's getting quieter down here,
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而这部分则变得渐渐安静下来,
18:12
but he's using this energy
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不过他正在利用这股能量
18:14
to think about what he has to do to get himself going.
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来思考一个可以让他重新动起来的办法。
18:17
And then, that energy is sort of spreading
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而之后,这股能量就好似
18:20
throughout his thought areas.
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在他的思想区域里扩散开来一样。
18:22
He's not thinking about his family now, and he's getting himself motivated.
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他现在不再挂念他的家人,而是在想着如何激励他自己。
18:25
This is the posterior part, where his muscles are going to be moving,
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这是大脑后部,帮助他的肌肉重新活动起来,
18:28
and he's going to be pacing himself.
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随后他将开始自我调整,
18:30
His heart and lungs are going to pick up speed.
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他的心脏和肺将开始提速。
18:33
So this is what I can speculate might have been going on
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如果我们可以将Beck连接在电脑扫描仪上,
18:36
had we been able to do a SPECT scan on Beck
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我猜想这就是当时在他惊人的求生过程中
18:39
during this survival epic.
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所发生的一切。
18:43
So here I am taking care of Beck at 21,000 feet,
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这是我在海拔21000英尺的地方照顾Beck,
18:46
and I felt what I was doing was completely trivial
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和他所做的一切自救相比
18:49
compared to what he had done for himself.
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我感觉我所做的是如此微不足道。
18:51
It just shows you what the power of the mind can do.
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这向你们展示了人类意志的力量。
18:56
He was critically ill, there were other critically ill patients;
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他病得很严重。还有许多其他的患者病得很严重。
18:58
luckily, we were able to get a helicopter
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幸运的是,我们得以获取一架直升飞机
19:00
in to rescue these guys.
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来援救这些人。
19:03
A helicopter came in at 21,000 feet
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一架直升飞机来到21000的海拔处
19:06
and carried out the highest helicopter rescue in history.
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完成了人类历史上海拔最高的直升机援救。
19:10
It was able to land on the ice, take away Beck
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它得以降落在冰上,将Beck
19:12
and the other survivors, one by one,
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以及其他幸存者,一个个地运走,
19:15
and get them off to Kathmandu in a clinic
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并在我们赶回大本营之前,
19:18
before we even got back to base camp.
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就已经把他们送到了加德满都(尼泊尔首都)的一家诊所。
19:21
This is a scene at base camp,
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这是在大本营的一幕,
19:23
at one of the camps
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我们遇难的登山者中就有一些
19:25
where some of the climbers were lost.
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来自其中的一个营地。
19:27
And we had a memorial service there
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几天后,我们在那里
19:29
a few days later.
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举行了一场悼念仪式。
19:31
These are Serphas lighting juniper branches.
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这是一些夏尔巴人燃烧杉树枝,
19:34
They believe juniper smoke is holy.
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因为他们相信杉树的烟是神圣的。
19:37
And the climbers stood around on the high rocks
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登山者们站在那些高处岩石的四周
19:41
and spoke of the climbers who were lost
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追忆那些
19:44
up near the summit,
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在峰顶遇难的同伴们,
19:46
turning to the mountain, actually, to talk to them directly.
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转向大山,去和他们直接对话。
19:51
There were five climbers lost here.
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一共有五名登山者不幸逝世。
19:53
This was Scott Fischer,
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这是Scott Fischer,
19:58
Rob Hall,
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Rob Hall,
20:00
Andy Harris,
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Andy Harris,
20:02
Doug Hansen
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Doug Hansen
20:04
and Yasuko Namba.
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以及Yasuko Namba。
20:06
And one more climber
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还有一名登山者
20:08
should have died that day, but didn't,
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本应在那天逝世,但是却没有,
20:11
and that's Beck Weathers.
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他就是Beck Weathers。
20:14
He was able to survive
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而他幸存的原因
20:16
because he was able to generate that incredible willpower,
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就是因为他可以召唤那股难以置信的意志力,
20:19
he was able to use all the power of his mind
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用他所用的精神力量
20:22
to save himself.
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拯救了自己。
20:25
These are Tibetan prayer flags.
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这些是藏族的祷告旗。
20:27
These Sherpas believe that
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夏尔巴人们相信
20:29
if you write prayers on these flags,
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如果你将祷告写在这些旗上面,
20:31
the message will be carried up to the gods,
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你的讯息将会被带往神那里。
20:34
and that year, Beck's message was answered.
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而那一年,Beck的祈祷得到了回应。
20:38
Thank you.
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谢谢。
20:40
(Applause)
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(掌声)
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