Ken Kamler: Medical miracle on Everest

107,633 views ・ 2010-03-18

TED


請雙擊下方英文字幕播放視頻。

譯者: WeiChe Lin 審譯者: Chih Ying (Naomi) Chuang
00:15
OK. We've heard a lot of people
0
15260
3000
好的。嗯,我們都聽了很多人
00:18
speak at this conference
1
18260
2000
在這次的會議中說了
00:20
about the power of the human mind.
2
20260
3000
很多關於人們意志力的力量
00:23
And what I'd like to do today
3
23260
2000
而我今天想做的
00:25
is give you a vivid example
4
25260
2000
是給你們一個活生生的例子
00:27
of how that power can be unleashed
5
27260
2000
關於這些力量如何被釋放出來的
00:29
when someone is in a survival situation,
6
29260
3000
當一個人在一個生死攸關的情況下
00:32
how the will to survive can bring that out in people.
7
32260
3000
那生存的意志力是如何從人們激發出來
00:36
This is an incident which occurred on Mount Everest;
8
36260
3000
這是一次發生在聖母峰上的事件
00:39
it was the worst disaster in the history of Everest.
9
39260
4000
這是一個聖母峰史上最嚴重的山難
00:43
And when it occurred, I was the only doctor on the mountain.
10
43260
3000
而且當時我是山上唯一的一個醫生
00:46
So I'll take you through that
11
46260
2000
所以呢我會帶你們一起去體會
00:48
and we'll see what it's like
12
48260
3000
然後我們會看到這就像
00:51
when someone really
13
51260
2000
當一個人確實
00:53
summons the will to survive.
14
53260
2000
召喚出意志力以求生存是甚麼樣子。
00:55
OK, this is Mount Everest.
15
55260
2000
ok 這就是聖母峰。
00:57
It's 29,035 feet high.
16
57260
2000
她高 29,035 英尺。
00:59
I've been there six times: Four times I did work with National Geographic,
17
59260
3000
我曾經去過那裡六次,其中四次是和國家地理頻道一起,
01:02
making tectonic plate measurements;
18
62260
2000
做關於板塊的測量。
01:04
twice, I went with NASA
19
64260
2000
另外兩次我是跟NASA一起去的
01:06
doing remote sensing devices.
20
66260
3000
做關於遙測系統的測試。
01:09
It was on my fourth trip to Everest
21
69260
2000
這是我的第四次聖母峰之旅
01:11
that a comet passed over the mountain. Hyakutake.
22
71260
3000
這個是百武彗星,剛好畫過山際
01:14
And the Sherpas told us then
23
74260
2000
然後這些夏爾巴人(當地住民)告訴我們
01:16
that was a very bad omen,
24
76260
2000
那個彗星是一個不好的預兆
01:18
and we should have listened to them.
25
78260
2000
而我們真的應該要聽他們的
01:20
Everest is an extreme environment.
26
80260
3000
聖母峰上面真的是一個很艱困的環境
01:23
There's only one-third as much oxygen at the summit as there is at sea level.
27
83260
3000
在頂峰的地方氧氣含量大約只有平地的三分之一
01:26
Near the summit, temperatures
28
86260
2000
頂峰的氣溫呢
01:28
can be 40 degrees below zero.
29
88260
2000
大約是華氏40度到零度
01:30
You can have winds 20 to 40 miles an hour.
30
90260
2000
風速大概是每小時20到40英里
01:32
It's actually a wind-chill factor
31
92260
2000
她的風寒指標呢
01:34
which is lower than a summer day on Mars.
32
94260
3000
大概比火星的夏天還要低
01:38
I remember one time being up near the summit,
33
98260
2000
我記得有一次在頂峰的附近
01:40
I reached into my down jacket
34
100260
2000
我伸手進我的羽毛外套
01:42
for a drink from my water bottle,
35
102260
2000
想要從我的水壺喝口水
01:44
inside my down jacket,
36
104260
2000
在我的羽毛外套裡面
01:46
only to discover that the water was already frozen solid.
37
106260
3000
卻發現裡面的水居然已經結冰凝固了!
01:49
That gives you an idea of just how severe
38
109260
2000
這樣讓你有一些概念關於
01:51
things are near the summit.
39
111260
3000
頂峰附近的情況有多麼惡劣
01:55
OK, this is the route up Everest.
40
115260
2000
好的,這是上聖母峰的路徑
01:57
It starts at base camp, at 17,500 feet.
41
117260
4000
它從位於一萬七千五百英尺的基地營開始
02:01
Camp One, 2,000 feet higher.
42
121260
3000
再往上兩千英尺是一號營
02:04
Camp Two, another 2,000 feet higher up,
43
124260
2000
一號營再往上兩千英尺是二號營
02:06
what's called the Western Cwm.
44
126260
2000
也稱為 Western Cwn (西谷)
02:08
CampThree is at the base of Lhotse,
45
128260
2000
三號營位於洛子峰的底部
02:10
which is the fourth highest mountain in the world, but it's dwarfed by Everest.
46
130260
3000
他是世界上的第四高峰,但是在聖母峰前面也變得矮小
02:13
And then Camp Four is the highest camp;
47
133260
3000
接著四號營是最高的營地
02:16
that's 3,000 feet short of the summit.
48
136260
3000
它距離峰頂不到三千英尺
02:20
This is a view of base camp.
49
140260
2000
這是我們基地營的一張照片
02:22
This is pitched on a glacier at 17,500 feet.
50
142260
3000
它紮營在一萬七千五百英尺的冰河上
02:25
It's the highest point you can bring your yaks
51
145260
2000
這是你能帶你的氂牛到的最高位置
02:27
before you have to unload.
52
147260
2000
在你必須要卸下裝備之前
02:29
And this is what they unloaded for me:
53
149260
2000
然後這是他們幫我卸貨的東西.
02:31
I had four yak loads of medical supplies,
54
151260
2000
我帶了四隻載滿醫療補給品的氂牛
02:33
which are dumped in a tent,
55
153260
2000
然後東西全部都倒在帳篷裡
02:35
and here I am trying to arrange things.
56
155260
3000
喔這個是我試著想要整理這些東西
02:38
This was our expedition.
57
158260
2000
這是我們的探勘團隊
02:40
It was a National Geographic expedition,
58
160260
2000
這是國家地理的探勘隊伍
02:42
but it was organized by The Explorers Club.
59
162260
2000
但是他是由The Explorers Club.所組成的
02:44
There were three other expeditions on the mountain,
60
164260
2000
另外還有三支探勘隊伍同時在山上
02:46
an American team, a New Zealand team
61
166260
2000
一個美國的隊伍,一個紐西蘭團隊,
02:48
and an IMAX team.
62
168260
2000
還有一個IMAX的隊伍。
02:52
And, after actually two months of preparation,
63
172260
3000
接著,在整整兩個月的準備之後,
02:55
we built our camps all the way up the mountain.
64
175260
3000
我們把我們的營地蓋在山上最高的地方。
02:58
This is a view looking up the icefall,
65
178260
2000
這是一張仰望冰瀑的景象。
03:00
the first 2,000 feet of the climb
66
180260
2000
爬了前兩千英尺之後遇到
03:02
up from base camp.
67
182260
2000
從基地營開始。
03:05
And here's a picture in the icefall;
68
185260
2000
這個是一張冰瀑的照片。
03:07
it's a waterfall, but it's frozen, but it moves very slowly,
69
187260
3000
他其實是一個瀑布,但是它結冰了,但它仍非常緩慢的移動,
03:10
and it actually changes every day.
70
190260
2000
所以它每天都還是會改變。
03:12
When you're in it, you're like a rat in a maze;
71
192260
2000
當你身在其中的時候,你就像一隻在迷宮裡頭的老鼠:
03:14
you can't even see over the top.
72
194260
2000
你甚至無法從上面看到全貌。
03:17
This is near the top of the icefall.
73
197260
2000
這是靠近冰瀑的頂端。
03:19
You want to climb through at night when the ice is frozen.
74
199260
3000
你會想要在晚上完全結冰了才爬上去。
03:22
That way, it's less likely to tumble down on you.
75
202260
2000
這樣它才比較不會垮在你身上。
03:24
These are some climbers reaching the top of the icefall just at sun-up.
76
204260
3000
這是一群登山客在太陽剛剛升起的時候爬到冰瀑頂端。
03:30
This is me crossing a crevasse.
77
210260
2000
這是我,正要越過一個冰隙。
03:32
We cross on aluminum ladders with safety ropes attached.
78
212260
3000
我們利用綁上安全繩的鋁梯來通過。
03:37
That's another crevasse.
79
217260
2000
這是另外一個冰隙。
03:39
Some of these things are 10 stories deep or more,
80
219260
2000
這些冰隙有些深達十層樓或者更高,
03:41
and one of my climbing friends says that
81
221260
2000
一個山友告訴我說
03:43
the reason we actually climb at night
82
223260
2000
我們之所以要在晚上爬過去的原因
03:45
is because if we ever saw the bottom
83
225260
2000
是因為如果我們一旦看到了冰隙的底部
03:47
of what we're climbing over,
84
227260
2000
是我們正要爬過去的,
03:49
we would never do it.
85
229260
3000
那我們永遠也不會這麼做。
03:52
Okay. This is Camp One.
86
232260
2000
好的,這是一號營。
03:54
It's the first flat spot you can reach
87
234260
2000
這是第一個你能夠到達的平坦處
03:56
after you get up to the top of the icefall.
88
236260
3000
在你爬到冰瀑的上方之後
03:59
And from there we climb up to Camp Two,
89
239260
3000
我們從這裡爬上第二營地
04:02
which is sort of the foreground.
90
242260
2000
有點像是前哨站
04:04
These are climbers moving up the Lhotse face,
91
244260
2000
這裡是登山客開始往洛子峰面攀爬的情況
04:06
that mountain toward Camp Three.
92
246260
2000
這座山也是第三營地的地方
04:08
They're on fixed ropes here.
93
248260
2000
他們都固定在繩索上攀爬
04:10
A fall here, if you weren't roped in,
94
250260
2000
如果你沒綁上繩索,就會在這跌下
04:12
would be 5,000 feet down.
95
252260
3000
差不多是五千英尺深
04:16
This is a view taken from camp three.
96
256260
2000
這是從第三營地拍的景觀
04:18
You can see the Lhotse face is in profile,
97
258260
2000
你可以看到洛子峰表面的輪廓
04:20
it's about a 45 degree angle. It takes two days to climb it,
98
260260
3000
大概呈現45度角,要花個兩天才能爬上去
04:23
so you put the camp halfway through.
99
263260
2000
所以你會紮營在半途中
04:25
If you notice, the summit of Everest is black.
100
265260
2000
如果你有注意到,聖母峰峰頂呈現黑色
04:27
There's no ice over it.
101
267260
2000
並沒有冰雪覆蓋在上面
04:29
And that's because Everest is so high,
102
269260
2000
那是因為呢,聖母峰太高
04:31
it's in the jet stream,
103
271260
2000
她在所謂的高速氣流當中
04:33
and winds are constantly scouring the face,
104
273260
2000
強風不斷的沖刷她的表面
04:35
so no snow gets to accumulate.
105
275260
2000
造成冰雪沒有辦法在上面堆積
04:37
What looks like a cloud behind the summit ridge
106
277260
2000
在頂峰邊緣看起來像是雲的東西
04:39
is actually snow being blown off the summit.
107
279260
3000
其實就是被風吹起來的冰雪
04:45
This is on the way up from Camp Three to Camp Four,
108
285260
2000
這是從三號營地攀爬到四號營地的途中
04:47
moving in, up through the clouds.
109
287260
3000
會走進並且穿越雲層
04:52
And this is at Camp Four.
110
292260
2000
然後這是在四號營地
04:54
Once you get to Camp Four, you have maybe 24 hours
111
294260
3000
一旦你到達了四號營地,你大概有二十四小時
04:57
to decide if you're going to go for the summit or not.
112
297260
2000
來決定你到底要不要攻頂
04:59
Everybody's on oxygen, your supplies are limited,
113
299260
3000
每一個人都帶著氧氣面罩。你的氧氣補給非常有限
05:02
and you either have to go up or go down,
114
302260
2000
所以你要攻頂還是下山
05:04
make that decision very quickly.
115
304260
3000
你要很快的做決定
05:07
This is a picture of Rob Hall.
116
307260
2000
這是一張Rob Hall的照片
05:09
He was the leader of the New Zealand team.
117
309260
2000
他是紐西蘭隊伍的領隊。
05:11
This is a radio he used later to call his wife
118
311260
2000
這是他晚點用來與他老婆聯繫的無線電
05:13
that I'll tell you about.
119
313260
3000
我等一下就會告訴你。
05:17
These are some climbers waiting to go to the summit.
120
317260
2000
這是一些等著攻頂的登山客。
05:19
They're up at Camp Four, and you can see that there's wind blowing off the summit.
121
319260
3000
他們正在四號營地,然後你可以看到後面頂峰上面強風不斷的吹著。
05:22
This is not good weather to climb in,
122
322260
2000
這不是一個適合攀爬的天氣,
05:24
so the climbers are just waiting, hoping that the wind's going to die down.
123
324260
3000
所以登山客們只能等著,希望強風能夠停下來。
05:29
And, in fact, the wind does die down at night.
124
329260
2000
然後,事實上風在晚上的確是停了下來。
05:31
It becomes very calm, there's no wind at all.
125
331260
2000
變得非常平靜,而且幾乎沒有風。
05:33
This looks like a good chance to go for the summit.
126
333260
3000
這看起來是個非常適合攻頂的好機會。
05:36
So here are some climbers starting out for the summit
127
336260
2000
所以有些登山客開始準備攻頂
05:38
on what's called the Triangular Face.
128
338260
2000
在所謂的三角點上。
05:40
It's the first part of climb.
129
340260
2000
這是攀登的第一個部份。
05:42
It's done in the dark, because it's actually less steep than what comes next,
130
342260
2000
這通常會在黑夜中完成,因為跟接下來比這算是比較不那麼陡峭的,
05:44
and you can gain daylight hours if you do this in the dark.
131
344260
3000
而且讓你可以賺到一點白天的時間,如果你是在黑夜中完成的。
05:48
So that's what happened.
132
348260
2000
然後這就是接下來發生的。
05:50
The climbers got on the southeast ridge.
133
350260
2000
這些登山客到了東南邊的山脊。
05:52
This is the view looking at the southeast ridge.
134
352260
2000
這是從東南脊觀看它的樣子。
05:54
The summit would be in the foreground.
135
354260
2000
這個山頂是個前台。
05:56
From here, it's about 1,500 feet
136
356260
3000
從這裡開始,它大約有一千五百英尺
05:59
up at a 30-degree angle to the summit.
137
359260
3000
以一個30度的傾角到達頂峰。
06:04
But what happened that year was
138
364260
2000
但是那年發生的事情是
06:06
the wind suddenly and unexpectedly picked up.
139
366260
2000
風突然不預期的又刮大了起來。
06:08
A storm blew in that no one was anticipating.
140
368260
3000
一個所有人預料之外的暴風。
06:11
You can see here some ferocious winds
141
371260
2000
你可以看到這裡一些非常強勁的風勢
06:13
blowing snow way high off the summit.
142
373260
3000
把雪吹得遠高過山頂。
06:16
And there were climbers on that summit ridge.
143
376260
3000
而且還有登山客還在山頂的山脊上。
06:20
This is a picture of me in that area
144
380260
2000
這張照片是我在同樣的地方
06:22
taken a year before,
145
382260
2000
在一年以前拍的,
06:24
and you can see I've got an oxygen mask on
146
384260
3000
你可以看到我戴著氧氣面罩
06:27
with a rebreather.
147
387260
2000
還有循環的呼吸器
06:29
I have an oxygen hose connected here.
148
389260
2000
我這還有個氧氣管連接在上面
06:31
You can see on this climber, we have two oxygen tanks in the backpack --
149
391260
3000
你可以看到在這位登山者身上,我們的背包都有兩罐氧氣筒
06:34
little titanium tanks, very lightweight --
150
394260
2000
小型的鈦合金筒,重量非常輕
06:36
and we're not carrying much else.
151
396260
2000
然後,我們並沒有多帶什麼
06:38
This is all you've got. You're very exposed on the summit ridge.
152
398260
3000
這是你全部所有的。你在山頂脊上是非常裸露沒有遮蔽的。
06:41
OK, this is a view taken on the summit ridge itself.
153
401260
3000
好,這是一張照片從山頂脊上拍下來的
06:44
This is on the way toward the summit,
154
404260
2000
這是在攻頂的半途中,
06:46
on that 1,500-foot bridge.
155
406260
3000
在那一千五百英尺的山脊。
06:49
All the climbers here are climbing unroped,
156
409260
2000
所有的登山人員都是沒有綁上繩子的
06:51
and the reason is because
157
411260
2000
那是由於
06:53
the drop off is so sheer on either side
158
413260
2000
兩邊下坡都是非常陡峭的,
06:55
that if you were roped to somebody,
159
415260
2000
如果你還和其他人綁著,
06:57
you'd wind up just pulling them off with you.
160
417260
2000
你最後會拉著他們跟著你掉下去。
06:59
So each person climbs individually.
161
419260
2000
所以每個人都只能靠自己獨立的爬。
07:01
And it's not a straight path at all,
162
421260
3000
而且這根本就不是什麼好走的路。
07:04
it's very difficult climbing,
163
424260
3000
它可是非常難爬的,
07:07
and there's always the risk
164
427260
2000
都必須要冒著可能會
07:09
of falling on either side.
165
429260
2000
掉下任何一邊的危險
07:11
If you fall to your left, you're going to fall
166
431260
2000
如果你從左邊掉下去,你將會墜落
07:13
8,000 feet into Nepal;
167
433260
2000
八千英尺到尼泊爾。
07:15
if you fall to your right,
168
435260
2000
如果你從右邊掉下去
07:17
you're going to fall 12,000 feet into Tibet.
169
437260
3000
你會墜落一萬兩千英尺深到西藏。
07:20
So it's probably better to fall into Tibet
170
440260
2000
所以,可能摔到西藏那邊會好一點
07:22
because you'll live longer.
171
442260
2000
因為你會活的久一點 (墜落時間比較長...)
07:24
(Laughter)
172
444260
5000
(笑聲)
07:29
But, either way, you fall for the rest of your life.
173
449260
3000
但是無論哪一邊,你都是跌下你剩下的人生。
07:33
OK. Those climbers were up near the summit,
174
453260
2000
好,這些登山者正沿著山脊,
07:35
along that summit ridge that you see up there,
175
455260
4000
你可以看到這裡爬到接近頂峰了
07:39
and I was down here in Camp Three.
176
459260
2000
當時我正在下面的三號營地這裡。
07:41
My expedition was down in Camp Three,
177
461260
3000
我的探勘隊伍駐紮在三號營,
07:44
while these guys were up there in the storm.
178
464260
2000
當這些登山客在暴風當中的時候。
07:46
The storm was so fierce that we had to lay,
179
466260
3000
因為風暴實在太強勁了,我們只能躺著
07:49
fully dressed, fully equipped,
180
469260
2000
完全備裝、全副武裝的,
07:51
laid out on the tent floor
181
471260
2000
躺在帳篷的地板上
07:53
to stop the tent from blowing off the mountain.
182
473260
2000
來防止帳篷被強風吹落山谷。
07:55
It was the worst winds I've ever seen.
183
475260
2000
那是我看過最糟糕的暴風。
07:57
And the climbers up on the ridge
184
477260
3000
然後那些登山客還在的山脊上
08:00
were that much higher, 2,000 feet higher,
185
480260
2000
還要高兩千英尺,
08:02
and completely exposed to the elements.
186
482260
3000
然後完全的暴露在外在的環境下。
08:06
We were in radio contact with some of them.
187
486260
2000
我們透過無線電連絡他們。
08:08
This is a view taken along the summit ridge.
188
488260
3000
這張照片是沿著山頂的山脊拍的一張。
08:11
Rob Hall, we heard by radio,
189
491260
2000
我們從無線電中聽到Rob Hall
08:13
was up here, at this point in the storm
190
493260
3000
就在上面,就在暴風之中
08:16
with Doug Hansen.
191
496260
2000
跟Doug Hansen在一起。
08:18
And we heard that Rob was OK,
192
498260
2000
然後我們聽到Rob沒什麼問題,
08:20
but Doug was too weak to come down.
193
500260
2000
但是Doug 實在太虛弱了而沒辦法爬下來。
08:22
He was exhausted, and Rob was staying with him.
194
502260
3000
他完全累斃了,然後Rob在那裡陪著他。
08:26
We also got some bad news in the storm
195
506260
2000
我們在暴風雪中也得到了其他壞消息
08:28
that Beck Weathers, another climber,
196
508260
3000
另一個登山客 Beck Weather,
08:31
had collapsed in the snow and was dead.
197
511260
3000
被崩下的雪壓住而且已經死了。
08:34
There were still 18 other climbers
198
514260
2000
還有其他十八個登山客
08:36
that we weren't aware of their condition.
199
516260
4000
我們是不清楚他們的狀況。
08:40
They were lost. There was total confusion on the mountain;
200
520260
4000
他們失蹤了。山上完全是一團混亂。
08:44
all the stories were confusing, most of them were conflicting.
201
524260
3000
所有傳來的消息都讓人困惑。大部份還互相衝突。
08:47
We really had no idea what was going on during that storm.
202
527260
3000
我們真的不知道到底在暴風雪時發生了甚麼事情。
08:50
We were just hunkered down
203
530260
2000
我們只能窩在
08:52
in our tents at Camp Three.
204
532260
2000
我們在第三營地的帳篷裡。
08:54
Our two strongest climbers, Todd Burleson and Pete Athans,
205
534260
3000
我們其中兩位最強壯的登山客,Todd Burleson 和 Pete Athans,
08:57
decided to go up to try to rescue who they could
206
537260
3000
決定上山去看看能不能援救到任何他們所能救到的人
09:00
even though there was a ferocious storm going.
207
540260
3000
即使暴風還在猛烈的吹著。
09:03
They tried to radio a message to Rob Hall,
208
543260
3000
他們是著透過無線電發送訊息給Rob Hall,
09:06
who was a superb climber
209
546260
3000
他是一個傑出的登山者
09:09
stuck, sort of, with a weak climber
210
549260
2000
有點像與一個虛弱的登山客卡住
09:11
up near the summit.
211
551260
2000
在接近山頂的地方。
09:13
I expected them to say to Rob,
212
553260
2000
我原本希望他們對Rob說,
09:15
"Hold on. We're coming."
213
555260
3000
『撐住,我們就來了。』
09:18
But in fact, what they said was,
214
558260
3000
但事實上他們卻說,
09:21
"Leave Doug and come down yourself.
215
561260
2000
『留下Doug!你自己下來!
09:23
There's no chance of saving him,
216
563260
2000
已經沒有機會能夠救他了,
09:25
and just try to save yourself at this point."
217
565260
4000
在這關頭只能試著救你自己!!』
09:29
And Rob got that message,
218
569260
2000
然後Rob 也收到了那個訊息,
09:31
but his answer was,
219
571260
3000
但是他的回答是,
09:34
"We're both listening."
220
574260
3000
我們都在聽...
09:40
Todd and Pete got up to the summit ridge, up in here,
221
580260
3000
Todd 和 Pete 衝上山頂脊,就在那上面,
09:43
and it was a scene of complete chaos up there.
222
583260
4000
然後發現的景象是一片混亂。
09:47
But they did what they could to stabilize the people.
223
587260
3000
但是他們做了所有他們能做的去穩定人們。
09:50
I gave them radio advice from Camp Three,
224
590260
3000
我從第三營地透過無線電給了他們一些意見,
09:53
and we sent down the climbers that could make it down
225
593260
3000
然後我們將能到達山下的登山者送下山
09:56
under their own power.
226
596260
2000
靠的是他們自己的力量。
09:58
The ones that couldn't we just sort of decided to leave up at Camp Four.
227
598260
3000
對於那些作不到的,我們就只是決定留在四號營地。
10:01
So the climbers were coming down along this route.
228
601260
2000
所以那些登山客都沿著這條路線下山。
10:03
This is taken from Camp Three, where I was.
229
603260
3000
這是我從三號營地拍的,也是我所在的地方。
10:06
And they all came by me
230
606260
2000
然後他們都是來找我的
10:08
so I could take a look at them and see what I could do for them,
231
608260
3000
所以我盡我所能的看看我能夠為他們做些什麼,
10:12
which is really not much, because Camp Three
232
612260
2000
但是我們能做的不多因為三號營地
10:14
is a little notch cut in the ice
233
614260
2000
不過是冰上面的一個小小V字型斜缺口
10:16
in the middle of a 45-degree angle.
234
616260
2000
駐紮在四十五度角的中間。
10:18
You can barely stand outside the tent.
235
618260
2000
在帳篷外面你很勉強才能站著。
10:20
It's really cold; it's 24,000 feet.
236
620260
2000
在兩萬四千英尺真的是非常的冷。
10:22
The only supplies I had at that altitude
237
622260
2000
在那個高度下我唯一有的補給品
10:24
were two plastic bags
238
624260
2000
只是兩個塑膠袋
10:26
with preloaded syringes
239
626260
2000
還有預先注好的針筒
10:28
of painkiller and steroids.
240
628260
3000
的止痛劑或是類固醇。
10:31
So, as the climbers came by me,
241
631260
2000
所以當這些登山客來找我的時候,
10:33
I sort of assessed whether or not they were in condition
242
633260
2000
我約略評估他們的狀態還適不適合
10:35
to continue on further down.
243
635260
2000
繼續走下山。
10:37
The ones that weren't that lucid or were not that well coordinated,
244
637260
3000
對於那些情況不是那麼清醒,或是身體不是太協調的,
10:40
I would give an injection of steroids
245
640260
3000
我會給他們注射一些類固醇
10:43
to try to give them some period
246
643260
2000
並且給他們一點時間
10:45
of lucidity and coordination
247
645260
2000
恢復到比較清醒和協調的狀況
10:47
where they could then work their way further down the mountain.
248
647260
3000
好讓他們能夠自己走下山。
10:50
It's so awkward to work up there that sometimes
249
650260
2000
在那上面工作其實是很棘手的像有些時候
10:52
I even gave the injections right through their clothes.
250
652260
2000
我甚至會直接穿過衣服幫他們打針。
10:54
It was just too hard to maneuver
251
654260
3000
那實在是太難去操作
10:57
any other way up there.
252
657260
2000
在那上面的時候還以其它的方式來完成。
10:59
While I was taking care of them,
253
659260
2000
當我在照料他們的時候,
11:01
we got more news about Rob Hall.
254
661260
2000
我們得到更多關於Rob Hall的消息。
11:03
There was no way we could get up high enough to rescue him.
255
663260
3000
我們沒有辦法爬到那麼高去救他回來。
11:07
He called in to say that he was alone now.
256
667260
3000
他說現在只剩下他一個人了
11:10
Apparently, Doug had died higher up on the mountain.
257
670260
3000
很明顯的Doug已經在山上死了。
11:13
But Rob was now too weak to come down himself,
258
673260
3000
但是Rob現在已經太虛弱了而沒有辦法自己走下山,
11:16
and with the fierce winds and up at that altitude,
259
676260
3000
尤其是在那樣的強風還有高海拔下,
11:19
he was just beyond rescue
260
679260
2000
他幾乎沒有被拯救的機會
11:21
and he knew it.
261
681260
2000
而且他也知道。
11:23
At that point, he asked
262
683260
2000
就在那當下,他問到
11:25
to be paged into his wife.
263
685260
2000
希望能夠連絡到他太太。
11:27
He was carrying a radio.
264
687260
2000
而他也帶著那個無線電。
11:29
His wife was home in New Zealand,
265
689260
2000
她的太太在紐西蘭的家裡,
11:31
seven months pregnant with their first child,
266
691260
3000
肚子裡懷著七個月大,他們的第一個小孩。
11:34
and Rob asked to be patched into her. That was done,
267
694260
3000
Rob要求能夠連絡到他太太。也真的聯繫上了。
11:37
and Rob and his wife
268
697260
2000
然後Rob跟他太太
11:39
had their last conversation.
269
699260
2000
說了他們人生中最後、他們最後的一次對話。
11:41
They picked the name for their baby.
270
701260
2000
他們為他們的孩子挑了一個名字。
11:43
Rob then signed off,
271
703260
2000
然後Rob就掛斷了,
11:45
and that was the last we ever heard of him.
272
705260
3000
那是我們最後一次得到他的消息。
11:50
I was faced with treating a lot of critically ill patients
273
710260
3000
我面對到必須要治療許多狀況嚴重的病人
11:53
at 24,000 feet,
274
713260
2000
在兩萬四千英尺的地方,
11:55
which was an impossibility.
275
715260
2000
這幾乎不可能的。
11:57
So what we did was, we got the victims
276
717260
2000
所以我們做的是,帶著這些山難的倖存者
11:59
down to 21,000 feet, where it was easier for me to treat them.
277
719260
3000
下降到兩萬一千英尺的地方,那裡對我來說比較好照顧他們。
12:02
This was my medical kit.
278
722260
2000
這是我的急救箱。
12:04
It's a tackle box filled with medical supplies.
279
724260
3000
這是一個裝滿醫療補給品的工具箱。
12:07
This is what I carried up the mountain.
280
727260
3000
這是我帶上山的裝備。
12:10
I had more supplies lower down,
281
730260
2000
我在低一點的地方還有更多的補給品,
12:12
which I asked to be brought up to meet me at the lower camp.
282
732260
3000
我要求帶上來到較低層的營地給我。
12:15
And this was scene at the lower camp.
283
735260
2000
這是較低層營地的景象。
12:17
The survivors came in one by one.
284
737260
3000
倖存者一個接著一個的來找我。
12:20
Some of them were hypothermic,
285
740260
2000
他們有一些失溫,
12:22
some of them were frostbitten, some were both.
286
742260
3000
有一些有凍瘡,有些人兩樣都有。
12:25
What we did was try to warm them up as best we could,
287
745260
3000
我們做的就是盡我們所能的讓他們暖起來,
12:28
put oxygen on them and try to revive them,
288
748260
3000
給他們氧氣或是試著讓他們活下來,
12:31
which is difficult to do at 21,000 feet,
289
751260
3000
這在兩萬一千英尺做起來是很困難的,
12:34
when the tent is freezing.
290
754260
3000
尤其是當你的帳篷還冷得結冰時。
12:38
This is some severe frostbite on the feet,
291
758260
3000
這是一些很嚴重在腳上的凍瘡,
12:41
severe frostbite on the nose.
292
761260
3000
在鼻子上嚴重的凍瘡。
12:47
This climber was snow blind.
293
767260
2000
這位登上客得到了雪盲。
12:49
As I was taking care of these climbers,
294
769260
2000
正當我在照顧這些登山者的時候,
12:51
we got a startling experience.
295
771260
5000
我們得到了一個令人吃驚的經驗。
12:56
Out of nowhere, Beck Weathers,
296
776260
2000
不知道從哪裡,Beck Weathers,
12:58
who we had already been told was dead,
297
778260
3000
我們早就被告知已經雪壓死的人,
13:01
stumbled into the tent,
298
781260
3000
蹣跚的走進了帳篷,
13:04
just like a mummy, he walked into the tent.
299
784260
3000
就像個木乃伊,他就這麼走了進來。
13:07
I expected him to be incoherent,
300
787260
2000
我以為他可能會有點語無倫次,
13:09
but, in fact, he walked into the tent and said to me,
301
789260
2000
但是事實上他走進帳篷後對我說
13:11
"Hi, Ken. Where should I sit?"
302
791260
3000
『嗨, Ken 我應該坐哪?』
13:14
And then he said,
303
794260
2000
然後他又接著說,
13:16
"Do you accept my health insurance?"
304
796260
2000
『你接受我的健康保險嗎?』
13:18
(Laughter)
305
798260
2000
(笑聲)
13:20
He really said that.
306
800260
2000
他真的是那麼說的。
13:22
(Laughter)
307
802260
2000
(笑聲)
13:24
So he was completely lucid, but he was very severely frostbitten.
308
804260
3000
所以他是完全的清醒,只是有非常嚴重的凍瘡。
13:27
You can see his hand is completely white;
309
807260
2000
你可以看到他的手非常白,
13:29
his face, his nose, is burned.
310
809260
2000
然後他的臉、跟鼻子都灼傷了。
13:31
First, it turns white, and then when it's completed necrosis,
311
811260
3000
一開始你會看到它先變白,然後當它完全壞死之後,
13:34
it turns black, and then it falls off.
312
814260
3000
它就會變黑,然後就掉下來。
13:37
It's the last stage, just like a scar.
313
817260
2000
這是末期,就像是個疤。
13:39
So, as I was taking care of Beck,
314
819260
2000
所以,當我正在照顧Beck的時候,
13:41
he related what had been going on up there.
315
821260
2000
他描述了上面到底發生了什麼事。
13:43
He said he had gotten lost in the storm,
316
823260
3000
他說他在暴風雪當中迷了路。
13:46
collapsed in the snow,
317
826260
2000
然後被壓倒在雪堆下,
13:48
and just laid there, unable to move.
318
828260
2000
然後他只能倒在那裡,沒辦法動。
13:50
Some climbers had come by and looked at him,
319
830260
3000
有些登山客經過看了看他,
13:53
and he heard them say, "He's dead."
320
833260
3000
然後他聽到他們說:『他已經死了。』
13:57
But Beck wasn't dead; he heard that,
321
837260
3000
但是Beck並沒有死:他聽到他們說的,
14:00
but he was completely unable to move.
322
840260
2000
但是他完全沒辦法動彈。
14:02
He was in some sort of catatonic state
323
842260
2000
他正處於一種類似僵硬緊繃完全不動的狀態,
14:04
where he could be aware of his surroundings,
324
844260
2000
但他仍能感受周遭的環境,
14:06
but couldn't even blink to indicate that he was alive.
325
846260
3000
但是沒辦法甚至眨眼來表示他還活著。
14:09
So the climbers passed him by,
326
849260
3000
因此,登山客們經過他,
14:12
and Beck lay there for a day, a night
327
852260
3000
然後Beck躺在那裡一天、一夜,
14:15
and another day,
328
855260
2000
然後又一天,
14:17
in the snow.
329
857260
2000
在雪堆中。
14:19
And then he said to himself,
330
859260
2000
然後他對自己說,
14:21
"I don't want to die.
331
861260
2000
『我不想死。
14:23
I have a family to come back to."
332
863260
2000
我還有家人等著我回去。』
14:25
And the thoughts of his family,
333
865260
2000
而想到他的家人,
14:27
his kids and his wife,
334
867260
2000
他的老婆、小孩,
14:29
generated enough energy,
335
869260
3000
產生足夠的力量,
14:32
enough motivation in him,
336
872260
2000
讓他產生足夠的動機,
14:34
so that he actually got up.
337
874260
2000
所以讓他能夠確實站起來。
14:36
After laying in the snow that long a time,
338
876260
2000
被壓在雪堆中那麼長的時間之後,
14:38
he got up and found his way back to the camp.
339
878260
4000
他站起來並找到他自己走回營地的路。
14:42
And Beck told me that story very quietly,
340
882260
2000
然後Beck平靜的告訴我這個故事。
14:44
but I was absolutely stunned by it.
341
884260
3000
而我完全的被他的故事震懾住了。
14:47
I couldn't imagine anybody laying in the snow
342
887260
2000
我無法想像有任何人躺在雪堆中
14:49
that long a time
343
889260
2000
經過那麼長的時間之後
14:51
and then getting up.
344
891260
2000
還可以再站起來的。
14:53
He apparently reversed
345
893260
2000
他確實是回來了
14:55
an irreversible hypothermia.
346
895260
3000
帶著不可逆的失溫。
14:58
And I can only try to speculate
347
898260
3000
我只能試著去猜測
15:01
on how he did it.
348
901260
2000
他到底是怎麼辦到的。
15:03
So, what if we had Beck
349
903260
2000
所以,如果我們把Beck
15:05
hooked up to a SPECT scan,
350
905260
2000
接到SPECT(單光子射出電腦斷層掃描)造影,
15:07
something that could actually measure brain function?
351
907260
3000
那是個大概可以測出大腦功能的東西?
15:12
Just very simply, the three parts of the brain:
352
912260
3000
非常簡單的說一下,大腦的三個部份:
15:15
the frontal lobe, where you focus
353
915260
2000
額葉,是你主要集中
15:17
your attention and concentration;
354
917260
2000
你的注意力跟專注力的地方,
15:19
you have the temporal lobe,
355
919260
2000
你有顳葉,
15:21
where you form images and keep memories;
356
921260
2000
主要為你形成影像還有留住你的記憶,
15:23
and the posterior part of your brain,
357
923260
2000
然後你大腦的後面,
15:25
which contains the cerebellum, which controls motion;
358
925260
2000
有著小腦用來控制你的動作,
15:27
and the brain stem,
359
927260
2000
還有腦幹,
15:29
where you have your basic maintenance functions,
360
929260
2000
用來掌控你基本的生存功能
15:31
like heartbeat and respiration.
361
931260
2000
像是心跳跟呼吸。
15:33
So let's take a cut through the brain here,
362
933260
3000
所以讓我們把大腦沿著這裡剖開,
15:36
and imagine that Beck
363
936260
2000
然後想像這是Beck
15:38
was hooked up to a SPECT scan.
364
938260
2000
在接上SPECT之後的影像。
15:40
This measures dynamic blood flow
365
940260
2000
他可以測量動態的血液流動
15:42
and therefore energy flow within the brain.
366
942260
2000
因此可以看見腦內能量的流動。
15:44
So you have the prefrontal cortex here,
367
944260
2000
所以你在這裡有前額葉的腦迴
15:46
lighting up in red.
368
946260
2000
亮著呈現紅色。
15:48
This is a pretty evenly distributed scan.
369
948260
2000
這是張幾乎分佈得很均勻的掃描圖。
15:50
You have the middle area,
370
950260
2000
你有這中間的區域,
15:52
where the temporal lobe might be, in here,
371
952260
2000
也就是顳葉大概所在的地方,在這,
15:54
and the posterior portion, where the maintenance functions are in the back.
372
954260
3000
然後維持功能的部份在後面的區域。
15:57
This is a roughly normal scan,
373
957260
2000
這是張大致上正常的掃描圖,
15:59
showing equal distribution of energy.
374
959260
3000
顯示出平均的能量分布。
16:03
Now, you go to this one and you see how much more
375
963260
3000
現在我們來到這張,然後你會看到到底有多少
16:06
the frontal lobes are lighting up.
376
966260
2000
額葉的部份亮了起來。
16:08
This might be what Beck would be experiencing
377
968260
2000
這可能就是Beck經歷過的
16:10
when he realizes he's in danger.
378
970260
2000
當他意識到他正處於危險當中。
16:12
He's focusing all his attention
379
972260
2000
他將全部的注意力
16:14
on getting himself out of trouble.
380
974260
2000
專注在如何讓他脫離這次的危險。
16:16
These parts of the brain are quieting down.
381
976260
3000
這些中間部份的腦區沈寂下來。
16:19
He's not thinking about his family or anybody else at this point,
382
979260
3000
他在此時並沒有想到他的家人或是任何人,
16:22
and he's working pretty hard.
383
982260
2000
而且他非常努力(於脫離危險這件事情上。)
16:24
He's trying to get his muscles going and get out of this.
384
984260
3000
他試著讓他的肌肉作用來脫離這個危險。
16:30
OK, but he's losing ground here.
385
990260
3000
好。但是在這他失去優勢(遭遇困難)。
16:33
He's running out of energy.
386
993260
2000
他正在耗盡所有的力氣。
16:35
It's too cold; he can't keep his metabolic fires going,
387
995260
3000
這實在太冷,他沒辦法讓他的新陳代謝動起來。
16:38
and, you see, there's no more red here;
388
998260
2000
然後,你看到,這裡沒有任何一點是紅色的。
16:40
his brain is quieting down.
389
1000260
2000
他的大腦已經完全的沈寂了下來。
16:42
He's collapsed in the snow here. Everything is quiet,
390
1002260
2000
他正被雪堆壓著。一切都是安靜的。
16:44
there's very little red anywhere.
391
1004260
2000
根本只有很少的地方是還亮著紅色的。
16:47
Beck is powering down.
392
1007260
2000
Beck正在失去一切能量。
16:49
He's dying.
393
1009260
2000
他正在邁向死亡。
16:53
You go on to the next scan,
394
1013260
2000
你繼續看到下一張影像,
16:55
but, in Beck's case,
395
1015260
2000
但是,在Beck的案例中,
16:57
you can see that the middle part of his brain
396
1017260
2000
你可以看到他腦中間的區域
16:59
is beginning to light up again.
397
1019260
3000
正開始要再亮了起來。
17:02
He's beginning to think about his family.
398
1022260
2000
他正開始想起他的家人。
17:04
He's beginning to have images
399
1024260
2000
他腦中正開始有了些圖像
17:06
that are motivating him to get up.
400
1026260
2000
驅動他要站起來。
17:08
He's developing energy in this area
401
1028260
2000
他正在這個區域產生能量
17:10
through thought.
402
1030260
2000
透過想像/意念。
17:12
And this is how he's going to turn thought
403
1032260
3000
而這就是他正如何將意念
17:15
back into action.
404
1035260
3000
轉換成行動。
17:18
This part of the brain is called the anterior cingulate gyrus.
405
1038260
2000
這個部份的大腦就是所謂的前扣帶迴。
17:20
It's an area in which
406
1040260
2000
這個區域呢
17:22
a lot of neuroscientists believe
407
1042260
3000
被許多神經科學家認為是
17:25
the seat of will exists.
408
1045260
2000
意念存在的地方。
17:27
This is where people make decisions, where they develop willpower.
409
1047260
3000
這是人們做出決定,並且產生念力/意志力的地方。
17:30
And, you can see, there's an energy flow
410
1050260
2000
然後,你能看到,這裡有能量在的流動
17:32
going from the mid portion of his brain,
411
1052260
2000
從他大腦中間的部份開始,
17:34
where he's got images of his family,
412
1054260
2000
也是他開始想起他的家人影像的地方,
17:36
into this area, which is powering his will.
413
1056260
3000
流向到這個區域,而加強了他的意念。
17:41
Okay. This is getting stronger and stronger
414
1061260
2000
好,這個意念越來越強大
17:43
to the point where it's actually
415
1063260
2000
直到它能夠真正的
17:45
going to be a motivating factor.
416
1065260
2000
變成一個激勵的因子。
17:47
He's going to develop enough energy in that area --
417
1067260
2000
他將要在那個區域產生足夠的能量,
17:49
after a day, a night and a day --
418
1069260
2000
在一個白天、一個黑夜、然後又一天之後,
17:51
to actually motivate himself to get up.
419
1071260
3000
去確實驅動他站起來。
17:57
And you can see here,
420
1077260
2000
然後你可以看到這裡,
17:59
he's starting to get more energy into the frontal lobe.
421
1079260
2000
他的額葉開始得到越來越多的能量。
18:01
He's beginning to focus, he can concentrate now.
422
1081260
3000
他漸漸開始專注。他現在可以集中注意力。
18:04
He's thinking about what he's got to do to save himself.
423
1084260
2000
他開始想他要怎麼做才能救得了他自己。
18:06
So this energy has been transmitted
424
1086260
2000
所以這股能量已經被傳送了
18:08
up toward the front of his brain,
425
1088260
2000
送達到他大腦的前方
18:10
and it's getting quieter down here,
426
1090260
2000
然後這中間的區域漸漸的安靜了下來,
18:12
but he's using this energy
427
1092260
2000
但是他正用這個能量
18:14
to think about what he has to do to get himself going.
428
1094260
3000
來想著他要如何才能夠帶他自己脫離困境。
18:17
And then, that energy is sort of spreading
429
1097260
3000
然後,這個能量有點像在散播
18:20
throughout his thought areas.
430
1100260
2000
佈滿著他控制意念的區域。
18:22
He's not thinking about his family now, and he's getting himself motivated.
431
1102260
3000
他現在沒有在想他的家人,然後他正在激勵他自己。
18:25
This is the posterior part, where his muscles are going to be moving,
432
1105260
3000
這是大腦後方的部份,是讓他的肌肉能夠活動的地方,
18:28
and he's going to be pacing himself.
433
1108260
2000
然後他正要開始調整他的速度。
18:30
His heart and lungs are going to pick up speed.
434
1110260
3000
他的心臟跟肺也會漸漸的跟上他的速度。
18:33
So this is what I can speculate might have been going on
435
1113260
3000
所以這就是我所猜想,可能在他腦中發生的情況
18:36
had we been able to do a SPECT scan on Beck
436
1116260
3000
如果我們有機會對Beck做SPECT
18:39
during this survival epic.
437
1119260
3000
在那個生死攸關的當口。
18:43
So here I am taking care of Beck at 21,000 feet,
438
1123260
3000
所以這是我在兩萬一千英呎照顧Beck的照片,
18:46
and I felt what I was doing was completely trivial
439
1126260
3000
而我覺得當時我所作的可以說是微乎其微
18:49
compared to what he had done for himself.
440
1129260
2000
跟Beck對他自己所作的比起來。
18:51
It just shows you what the power of the mind can do.
441
1131260
3000
這只是呈現了你的意志力能夠做的
18:56
He was critically ill, there were other critically ill patients;
442
1136260
2000
當時他真的是傷得很重。同時也有其他情況危急的傷者。
18:58
luckily, we were able to get a helicopter
443
1138260
2000
幸運的,我們能夠找到一架直升機
19:00
in to rescue these guys.
444
1140260
3000
來救這些人。
19:03
A helicopter came in at 21,000 feet
445
1143260
3000
直升機來到兩萬一千英呎
19:06
and carried out the highest helicopter rescue in history.
446
1146260
3000
然後造就了史上最高的直升機救援任務。
19:10
It was able to land on the ice, take away Beck
447
1150260
2000
它能夠降落在冰上,將Beck帶走
19:12
and the other survivors, one by one,
448
1152260
3000
還有其他傷患一個接著一個的帶走。
19:15
and get them off to Kathmandu in a clinic
449
1155260
3000
接著讓他們降落在加德滿都的診所
19:18
before we even got back to base camp.
450
1158260
3000
在我們回到基地營之前。
19:21
This is a scene at base camp,
451
1161260
2000
這是基地營的一景
19:23
at one of the camps
452
1163260
2000
在其中的一個營裡
19:25
where some of the climbers were lost.
453
1165260
2000
是有些登山客走丟的地方。
19:27
And we had a memorial service there
454
1167260
2000
我們在那有一個紀念儀式的服務
19:29
a few days later.
455
1169260
2000
在山難發生之後的幾天。
19:31
These are Serphas lighting juniper branches.
456
1171260
3000
這是當地人點燃杜松樹枝。
19:34
They believe juniper smoke is holy.
457
1174260
3000
他們相信杜松的煙是神聖的。
19:37
And the climbers stood around on the high rocks
458
1177260
4000
然後這些登山客站在旁邊較高的石頭上
19:41
and spoke of the climbers who were lost
459
1181260
3000
然後談論著那些失去生命的人們
19:44
up near the summit,
460
1184260
2000
在接近頂峰,
19:46
turning to the mountain, actually, to talk to them directly.
461
1186260
3000
他們面向山,真的,與他們直接對話。
19:51
There were five climbers lost here.
462
1191260
2000
這裡有五位登山客遇難。
19:53
This was Scott Fischer,
463
1193260
3000
這是Scott Fischer(史考特.費雪),
19:58
Rob Hall,
464
1198260
2000
Rob Hall(羅伯.豪)
20:00
Andy Harris,
465
1200260
2000
Andy Harris (安迪.哈里斯)
20:02
Doug Hansen
466
1202260
2000
Doug Hansen(東.漢森),
20:04
and Yasuko Namba.
467
1204260
2000
以及Yasuko Namba(難波 康子)。
20:06
And one more climber
468
1206260
2000
還有另外一個登山客
20:08
should have died that day, but didn't,
469
1208260
3000
本來在那天應該已經死了,但是他沒有,
20:11
and that's Beck Weathers.
470
1211260
3000
那就是Beck Weathers(貝克.偉特斯)。
20:14
He was able to survive
471
1214260
2000
他能夠存活下來
20:16
because he was able to generate that incredible willpower,
472
1216260
3000
是因為他能夠產生那驚人的意念,
20:19
he was able to use all the power of his mind
473
1219260
3000
他能夠使用他腦中所有的力量
20:22
to save himself.
474
1222260
3000
來拯救他自己。
20:25
These are Tibetan prayer flags.
475
1225260
2000
這些是西藏的祈禱旗。
20:27
These Sherpas believe that
476
1227260
2000
這些喇嘛相信
20:29
if you write prayers on these flags,
477
1229260
2000
如果你把禱文寫在旗子上面。
20:31
the message will be carried up to the gods,
478
1231260
3000
你的訊息就會被帶到神的那邊去,
20:34
and that year, Beck's message was answered.
479
1234260
3000
而就在那年,Beck的願望得到了答覆。
20:38
Thank you.
480
1238260
2000
謝謝。
20:40
(Applause)
481
1240260
2000
(掌聲)
關於本網站

本網站將向您介紹對學習英語有用的 YouTube 視頻。 您將看到來自世界各地的一流教師教授的英語課程。 雙擊每個視頻頁面上顯示的英文字幕,從那裡播放視頻。 字幕與視頻播放同步滾動。 如果您有任何意見或要求,請使用此聯繫表與我們聯繫。

https://forms.gle/WvT1wiN1qDtmnspy7