Dan Barber: A surprising parable of foie gras

譯者: Coco Shen 審譯者: Geoff Chen

I went to Spain a few months ago

幾個月前我去了趟西班牙

and I had the best foie gras of my life.

在那裏我吃到了今生吃過最好吃的鵝肝醬

The best culinary experience of my life.

這是我一生中最美妙的飲食經驗

Because what I saw, I'm convinced, is the future of cooking.

因為我相信我看到了飲食文化的未來

Ridiculous, right?

莫名其妙，對嗎？

Foie gras and the future of cooking.

鵝肝醬和飲食文化的未來

There's not a food today that's more maligned than foie gras, right?

在今日的飲食文化中，沒有比鵝肝醬更敏感的話題了

I mean, it's crucified.

幾乎沒人敢碰

It was outlawed in Chicago for a while.

在芝加哥甚至有一陣子是違法的

It's pending here in California, and just recently in New York.

加州還沒有決定，紐約剛公佈法令

It's like if you're a chef and you put it on your menu,

感覺像是如果一個廚師把鵝肝醬放上菜單

you risk being attacked.

就有被攻擊的危險

Really, it happened here in San Francisco to a famous chef.

真的，它才剛發生在舊金山一位知名廚師身上

I'm not saying that there's not a rationale

我不是說反對鵝肝醬

for being opposed to foie gras.

是不合理的

The reasons usually just boil down to the gavage, which is the force feeding.

人們反對的是填鴨

Basically you take a goose or a duck

你抓著鵝，或是鴨

and you force feed a ton of grain down its throat.

然後把大量的穀物往它脖子裏倒

More grain in a couple of weeks than it would ever get in a lifetime.

這兩個禮拜的穀物等於它們一生的食量

Its liver expands by eight times.

於是牠們的肝臟脹大了八倍

Suffice to say it's like -- it's not the prettiest picture of sustainable farming.

簡單來說，這不是一個美好的景象

The problem for us chefs is that it's so freakin' delicious.

問題是，對廚師來說，它實在超級無敵好吃

(Laughter)

（笑聲）

I mean, I love the stuff.

我是說，我愛死它了

It is fatty, it's sweet, it's silky, it's unctuous.

它油而不膩，帶著絲般的甜味

It makes everything else you put it with taste incredible.

它讓所有東西都變得好吃

Can we produce a menu that's delicious without foie gras?

我們可以創造一個零鵝肝的可口菜單嗎？

Yes, sure.

當然可以

You can also bike the Tour de France without steroids, right?

就像不靠類固醇也可以完成環法自行車賽啊

(Laughter)

（笑聲）

Not a lot of people are doing it.

沒什麼人這樣做

And for good reason.

這是有原因的

(Laughter)

（笑聲）

So several months ago, a friend of mine sent me this link to this guy,

幾個月前，有個朋友介紹一個人給我

Eduardo Sousa.

Eduardo Sousa。

Eduardo is doing what he calls natural foie gras.

Eduardo 做的是全天然的肥鵝肝

Natural foie gras.

全天然的肥鵝肝

What's natural about foie gras?

肥鵝肝有可能是天然的嗎？

To take advantage of when the temperature drops in the fall,

他等到秋天天氣變冷時

geese and ducks gorge on food

鵝和鴨開始大量進食

to prepare for the harsh realities of winter.

為冬天做準備

And the rest of the year they're free to roam around Eduardo's land

其他時候牠們漫遊在 Eduardo 的農場上

and eat what they want.

隨意吃自己喜歡的

So no gavage, no force feeding,

沒有任何的填鴨

no factory-like conditions, no cruelty.

沒有工廠、殘忍虐待

And it's shockingly not a new idea.

這是個驚人的新做法

His great-granddad started -- Patería de Sousa -- in 1812.

從他的曾祖父開始 － Patria de Sousa

And they've been doing it quietly ever since.

從1812年開始，他們不動聲色地這樣做

That is until last year,

直到去年

when Eduardo won the Coup de Coeur,

當 Eduardo 贏了法國廚藝界的

the coveted French gastronomic prize.

”一見鍾情“獎

It's like the Olympics of food products.

那是食材的奧林匹克獎

He placed first for his foie gras.

他得到鵝肝醬的第一名

Big, big problem.

問題大了

As he said to me, that really pissed the French off.

他告訴我，法國人非常生氣

(Laughter)

（笑聲）

He said it sort of gleefully.

他愉快地告訴我

It was all over the papers.

它占滿了報紙頭條

I read about it. It was in Le Monde.

我也讀到了。在世界報上

"Spanish chef accused ... " -- and the French accused him.

”西班牙廚師被控告……“法國人控告他

"Spanish chef accused of cheating."

“西班牙廚師被控告有作弊嫌疑”

They accused him of paying off the judges.

他們懷疑他收買了評審

They implicated actually, the Spanish government, amazingly.

他們暗示這是西班牙政府做的

Huh, amazing.

驚人吧

A huge scandal for a few weeks.

這個巨大的醜聞持續了幾個禮拜

Couldn't find a shred of evidence.

沒人能找到證據

Now, look at the guy.

看看他

He doesn't look like a guy who's paying off French judges

他怎麼也不像一個會拿錢收買法國評審的人

for his foie gras.

為了他的鵝肝醬

So that died down, and very soon afterward,

風波慢慢平息，很快地

new controversy.

新的爭議出現了

He shouldn't win because it's not foie gras.

他不能贏因為那不是鵝肝醬

It's not foie gras because it's not gavage.

因為他沒有使用填鴨法

There's no force feeding.

所以那不能算是鵝肝醬

So by definition, he's lying and should be disqualified.

因為定義不同，他說了謊而且應該取消資格

As funny as it sounds, articulating it now and reading about it --

雖然現在想想，或讀到會覺得有點好笑

actually, if we had talked about it before this controversy,

事實上，如果我們在爭議發生前談論此事

I would have said, "That's kind of true."

我會說，那不是真的

You know, foie gras by definition, force feeding, it's gavage,

鵝肝醬一定得使用填鴨法

and that's what you get when you want foie gras.

這就是你吃鵝肝醬所得到的

That is, until I went to Eduardo's farm in Extremadura,

直到我去了 Eduardo 位在艾斯馬度華的農場

50 miles north of Seville, right on the Portugal border.

在塞維爾50英里的北方，葡萄牙邊境

I saw first-hand a system that is incredibly complex

我親眼見到一個非常複雜的系統

and then at the same time, like everything beautiful in nature,

同時也非常美麗而自然

is utterly simple.

它非常簡單

And he said to me, really from the first moment,

他告訴我，從我見到他的第一刻起

my life's work is to give the geese what they want.

我只是給這些鵝牠們想要的

He repeated that about 50 times in the two days I was with him.

在我與他在一起的這兩天，他重複了50次

I'm just here to give the geese what they want.

我只是給這些鵝牠們想要的

Actually, when I showed up he was lying down with the geese with his cell phone

事實上，我到的時候他正躺在地上

taking pictures of them

用手機拍攝他的鵝

like his children in the grass.

像他在草地上的孩子

Amazing.

非常神奇。

He's really just in love with -- he's at one with --

他深愛著這些 － 他就是

he's the goose whisperer.

所謂的“從一鵝終”

(Laughter)

（笑聲）

And when I was speaking to him, you know, I thought,

當我和他談話的時候，你知道

like I'm speaking to you now, right,

就像我現在和你說話一樣

but sort of in the middle of my questions, my excited questions,

但在我興奮地向他提問的時候

because the more I got to know him and his system,

因為我越認識他和他的姐妹

the more exciting this whole idea became.

我就越對這個新知感到興奮

He kept going like this to me.

他對我做這個動作

And I thought, OK, excited Jew from New York, right?

我想，哦，一個來自紐約的興奮猶太人

I'm talking a little too aggressively, whatever,

或許我有點太激進了，但沒關係

so you know, I slowed down.

於是我慢了下來

And finally, by the end of the day I was like,

終於，在一天快結束時，我說

Ed-uar-do, you know like this?

Eduardo，這是什麼意思？

But he was still going like this.

但他仍然做著一樣的動作

I figured it out.

我終於懂了

I was speaking too loudly.

我說話太大聲了

So I hushed my voice.

於是我降低聲音

I kind of like asked these questions and chatted with him through a translator

我經過一個翻譯員，問他這些問題

in kind of a half whisper.

輕聲細語地

And he stopped doing this.

他不再做這個手勢了

And amazingly, the geese who were on the other side of the paddock when I was around --

神奇的是，那些剛剛站得離我們很遠的鵝

"Get the hell away from this kid!" --

“不要靠近那些孩子！”

when I lowered my voice, they all came right up to us.

當我降低聲音，牠們圍了上來

Right up to us, like right up to here.

圍到了這裏

Right along the fence line.

沿著柵欄線

And fence line was amazing in itself.

連柵欄線本身也很神奇

The fence -- like this conception of fence that we have

我們概念裏的柵欄

it's totally backward with him.

與他的概念正好是相反的

The electricity on this fiberglass fence

玻璃纖維柵欄上

is only on the outside.

是向外的一圈通電

He rewired it. He invented it.

於是他重新設計發明

I've never seen it. Have you?

我從來沒有看過，你有嗎？

You fence in animals. You electrify the inside.

你把動物圍住，向內通電

He doesn't.

他不是

He electrifies only the outside.

他把柵欄外面通電

Why?

為什麼？

Because he said to me that he felt like the geese --

因他說他認為這些鵝

and he proved this actually, not just a conceit, he proved this --

這不只是一個想法，他證明了

the geese felt manipulated when they were imprisoned in their little paddocks.

當這些鵝住在柵欄中，它們會感覺自己被監禁

Even though they were imprisoned in this Garden of Eden

就算是被監禁在這個伊甸園一樣美好的地方

with figs and everything else.

到處都是無花果

He felt like they felt manipulated.

他認為它們感覺自己受控

So he got rid of the electricity,

於是他把電關掉

he got rid of current on the inside

把向內的電流關上

and kept it on the outside,

只保留了向外的電流

so it would protect them against coyotes and other predators.

讓通電柵欄可以保護它們不受小野狼和其他天敵

Now, what happened?

然後呢？

They ate, and he showed me on a chart,

牠們大吃。他給我看圖表

how they ate about 20 percent more feed to feed their livers.

它們多吃了百分之二十，餵肥牠們的肝

The landscape is incredible.

這景色非常神奇

I mean, his farm is incredible.

他的牧場非常神奇

It really is the Garden of Eden.

感覺就像伊甸園一樣

There's figs and everything else there for the taking.

有無花果和其他食物供應

And the irony of ironies is because Extremadura, the area --

諷刺中的諷刺是，這個叫艾斯馬度華的地方

what does Extremadura mean?

艾斯馬度華是什麼意思？

Extra hard land, right?

艾斯馬度華是“硬地”的意思

Extra difficult. Extra hard.

非常堅硬的土地。

But over four generations, he and his family

但在他的家庭住了四代以後

have literally transformed this extra hard land into a tasting menu.

這塊“硬地”變成了可口的菜單

Upgrades the life for these geese.

鵝的生活改善了

And they are allowed to take whatever they want.

牠們可以隨心所欲的吃自己想吃的

Another irony, the double irony

還有另一個意外

is that on the figs and the olives,

那些拿來餵鵝的無花果和橄欖

Eduardo can make more money selling those

如果 Eduardo 賣掉它們

than he can on the foie gras.

會比肥鵝肝本身更值錢

He doesn't care.

但他不在乎

He lets them take what they want and he says,

他讓牠們想吃什麼就吃什麼，他說

"Usually, it's about 50 percent. They're very fair."

”大概會吃掉一半吧，牠們很公平的。“

The other 50 percent, he takes and he sells and he makes money on them.

他把另外的一半賣掉賺錢

Part of the income for his farm.

他牧場收入的一部分

A big part of his income for his farm.

很大的一部分

But he never controls it.

但他從來不控制那些鵝

They get what they want,

牠們可以吃自己想吃的

they leave the rest for me and I sell it.

我再把牠們留給我的賣掉

His biggest obstacle, really, was the marketplace,

他最大的困難在市場

which demands these days bright yellow foie gras.

市場需求是又黃又亮的鵝肝醬

That's how I've been trained.

我也是被這樣訓練的

You want to look and see what good foie gras is,

如果你要知道好的鵝肝醬是什麼樣子

it's got to be bright yellow.

一定得是亮黃色的

It's the indication that it's the best foie gras.

牠證明那是最好的鵝肝醬

Well, because he doesn't force feed,

因為他不填鴨

because he doesn't gavage tons of corn,

因為他不強餵大量的玉米

his livers were pretty grey.

他的鵝肝醬是灰色的

Or they were.

應該說，本來是

But he found this wild plant called the Lupin bush.

他後來找到了一種叫羽扁豆的野生植物

The Lupin bush, it's all around Extremadura.

艾斯馬度華上到處都是這種羽扁豆

He let it go to seed, he took the seeds,

他等它結種，他取得種子以後

he planted it on his 30 acres, all around.

把它種在附近30公頃的土地上

And the geese love the Lupin bush.

鵝非常喜歡羽扁豆

Not for the bush, but for the seeds.

不是它的葉子，而是它的種子

And when they eat the seeds, their foie gras turns yellow.

當牠們吃下這些種子，鵝肝便變黃

Radioactive yellow.

螢光黃

Bright yellow.

亮黃色

Of the highest quality foie gras yellow I've ever seen.

我見過最好的肥鵝肝黃

(Laughter)

（笑聲）

So I'm listening to all this, you know, and I'm like,

我聽著他說，心想

is this guy for real? Is he making some of this up?

他是說真的嗎？還是編出來的？

Is he like, you know -- because he seemed to have an answer for everything,

他好像有一切解答

and it was always nature.

而且永遠保持天然

It was never him.

而不是人造。

And I was like, you know, I always get a little, like,

我有點 － 你知道

weirded out by people who deflect everything away from themselves.

我總覺得那些對成果卻之不恭的人很奇怪

Because, really, they want you to look at themselves, right?

他們要的不是自我表現嗎？

But he deflected everything away from his ingenuity

但他從未提到他對他的農場

into working with his landscape.

所做的這些獨出心裁的發明

So it's like, here I am, I'm on the fence about this guy,

我就坐在那裏，有些狐疑的

but increasingly, eating up his every word.

但漸漸地被說服

And we're sitting there, and I hear [clapping] from a distance, so I look over.

我們就坐在那裏，我聽見不遠處……的聲音

And he grabs my arm and the translator's,

他抓住我和翻譯員的手臂

and ducks us under a bush and says, "Watch this."

拉著我們躲到樹叢裏，他說“你看。”

"Shush," he says again for the 500th time to me.

“噓！”他再次提醒我

"Shush, watch this."

“噓，你看。“

And this squadron of geese come over.

一隊鵝飛了過來

[Clapping]

（擊掌）

And they're getting louder, louder, louder, like really loud, right over us.

聲音越來越大，越來越大，就在我們後方

And like airport traffic control, as they start to go past us

當牠們飛躍我們，感覺就像站在飛機跑道上

they're called back -- and they're called back and back and back.

牠們被叫了回來 － 被一次次地叫了回來

And then they circle around.

牠們繞著飛

And his geese are calling up now to the wild geese.

他的鵝呼喚著野鵝

[Clapping]

（擊掌）

And the wild geese are calling down.

野鵝被叫了下來

[Clapping]

（擊掌）

And it's getting louder and louder and they circle and circle

牠們繞著繞著，越來越大聲

and they land.

然後它們降落

And I'm just saying, "No way."

我心想，”這怎麼可能。“

(Laughter)

（笑聲）

No way.

怎麼可能。

And I look at Eduardo, who's near tears looking at this,

我看著 Eduardo，他眼眶含淚

and I say, "You're telling me that your geese are calling to the wild geese

我說“你是說你的鵝在跟這些野鵝說

to say come for a visit?"

來拜訪我們一下？”

And he says, "No, no, no.

他說“不，不

They've come to stay."

"牠們是來住的。”

They've come to stay?

牠們要留在這裏？

(Laughter)

（笑聲）

It's like the DNA of a goose is to fly south in the winter, right?

野鵝的基因應該是冬天往南飛啊

I said that. I said "Isn't that what they're put on this Earth for?

我說，“這不是就是它們來到世界上的目的嗎？

To fly south in the winter and north when it gets warm?"

冬天往南，溫暖再往北飛？”

He said, "No, no, no.

他說，“不，不，不。

Their DNA is to find the conditions that are conducive to life.

牠們的基因是為自己找到一個

To happiness.

快樂生存的方法

They find it here.

牠們在這裏找到了

They don't need anything more."

牠們一無所缺了。”

They stop. They mate with his domesticated geese,

牠們留下。牠們和他的家鵝交配

and his flock continues.

他的鵝群繼續著

Think about that for a minute.

想一想

It's brilliant, right?

這不是很妙嗎？

Imagine -- I don't know, imagine a hog farm

想像在一個豬棚中

in, like, North Carolina,

在北卡羅來納州好了

and a wild pig comes upon a factory farm

野豬跑進了一個農業工廠

and decides to stay.

決定定居

(Laughter)

（笑聲）

So how did it taste?

究竟吃起來怎樣呢？

I finally got to taste it before I left.

在我離開前我終於品嘗到了

He took me to his neighborhood restaurant

他帶我去附近的一家餐廳

and he served me some of his foie gras, confit de foie gras.

他給了我一些鵝肝醬

It was incredible.

那真是太美妙了。

And the problem with saying that, of course, is that

這麼說的問題在

you know, at this point it risks hyperbole really easily.

聽上去可能有些誇張

And I'd like to make a metaphor, but I don't have one really.

我很希望有個合適的比喻，但我沒有

I was drinking this guy's Kool-Aid so much,

我喝了太多他給我灌的迷湯

he could have served me goose feathers and I would have been like,

他就算給我吃鵝毛我也會說

this guy's a genius, you know?

這傢伙是個天才，你知道

I'm really in love with him at this point.

我那時簡直愛上他了

But it truly was the best foie gras of my life.

但那的確是我吃過最好吃的鵝肝

So much so that I don't think I had ever really had foie gras until that moment.

到了一種，我認為我從來沒有真正吃過鵝肝

I'd had something that was called foie gras.

只是一些叫做鵝肝的東西

But this was transformative. Really transformative.

那改變了我，真的改變了我

And I say to you, I might not stick to this,

我對各位說，雖然有可能不會履行

but I don't think I'll ever serve foie gras on my menu again

但我想我不會再把鵝肝放到菜單上

because of that taste experience with Eduardo.

因為和 Eduardo 的那次美食經驗

It was sweet, it was unctuous.

它甜美，不油膩

It had all the qualities of foie gras,

它擁有肥鵝肝該有的一切

but its fat had a lot of integrity and a lot of honesty.

但這些脂肪裏卻充滿著誠實和尊嚴

And you could taste herbs, you could taste spices.

你可以吃到香草，你可以吃到香料

And I kept -- I said, you know, I swear to God I tasted star anise.

我發誓我吃到了八角茴香

I was sure of it.

我很確定

And I'm not like some super taster, you know?

我不是那種舌頭很靈的人，你知道

But I can taste things.

但我還是嘗得出來

There's 100 percent star anise in there.

我百分之百確定那裏有八角茴香的味道

And he says, "No."

他說“沒有。“

And I ended up like going down the spices,

我努力嘗出不同香料

and finally, it was like, OK, salt and pepper,

終於，我說，好，鹽和胡椒

thinking he's salted and peppered his liver.

想著他應該在鵝肝裏放了鹽和胡椒吧

But no.

但沒有

He takes the liver when he harvests the foie gras,

它把肥鵝肝拿出來

he sticks them in this jar

放進罐子裏

and he confits it.

做濃縮，漬料處理

No salt, no pepper, no oil, no spices.

沒有鹽，沒有胡椒，沒有油，沒有香料

What?

沒有香料？

We went back out for the final tour of the farm,

我們最後一次回到農莊

and he showed me the wild pepper plants

他給我們看那些野生的胡椒

and the plants that he made sure existed on his farm for salinity.

以及他種來保持土地鹹度的植物

He doesn't need salt and pepper.

他不需要鹽或胡椒

And he doesn't need spices, because he's got this potpourri of herbs and flavors

也不需要香料，因為他的鵝就吃他

that his geese love to gorge on.

種的這些混合香草

I turned to him at the end of the meal,

飯後我轉向他

and it's a question I asked several times,

問他一個我反復問他

and he hadn't, kind of, answered me directly,

他卻沒有正面回答的問題

but I said, "Now look, you're in Spain,

我說“你在西班牙，

some of the greatest chefs in the world are --

這裏有全世界最好的廚師

Ferran Adria, the preeminent chef of the world today, not that far from you.

Ferran Adria，當代最好的廚師，就在你附近

How come you don't give him this?

為什麼你沒有給他這個？

How come no one's really heard of you?"

為什麼你默默無名？”

And it may be because of the wine,

可能是因為酒的關係

or it may be because of my excitement,

可能是因為我的興奮

he answered me directly and he said, "Because chefs don't deserve my foie gras."

他直接回答我說：因為廚師配不上我的肥鵝肝。

(Laughter)

（笑聲）

And he was right.

他說的是對的

He was right.

是對的

Chefs take foie gras and they make it their own.

廚師們用肥鵝肝做自己想要的

They create a dish

把它變成一道菜。

where all the vectors point at us.

但我們今天所得到的這一切

With Eduardo it's about the expression of nature.

都是 Eduardo 力求天然的成果

And as he said, I think fittingly,

他說

it's a gift from God, with God saying, you've done good work.

這是來自上天的禮物，上天說：你做得好。

Simple.

就是這樣。

I flew home, I'm on the flight with my little black book

在回程飛機上，我打開我黑色的小筆記本

and I took, you know, pages and pages of notes about it.

裏面寫滿了一頁又一頁的筆記

I really was moved.

我非常感動

And in the corner of one of these -- one of my notes,

在這些筆記的其中一個角落

is this note that says, when asked,

我寫道，當他被問到對於

what do you think of conventional foie gras?

今日一般人所吃的肥鵝肝

What do you think of foie gras that

那些世界上百分之99.99999

99.99999 percent of the world eats?

的人所吃的肥鵝肝有什麼意見？

He said, "I think it's an insult to history."

他說“我認為那是污辱歷史。”

And I wrote, insult to history.

我寫著：對歷史的污辱。

I'm on the plane and I'm just tearing my hair out.

我在飛機上感覺悔恨萬分

It's like, why didn't I follow up on that?

為什麼我沒追問下去？

What the hell does that mean?

他為什麼這麼說？

Insult to history.

對歷史的污辱

So I did some research when I got back,

於是我回去著手做了一些研究

and here's what I found.

這些是我找到的資料

The history of foie gras.

肥鵝肝的歷史

Jews invented foie gras.

猶太人發明了肥鵝肝

True story.

千真萬確

True story.

千真萬確

By accident.

是意外發現的

They were looking for an alternative to schmaltz.

他們在找雞油的替代品

Gotten sick of the chicken fat.

因為吃膩了雞油

They were looking for an alternative.

他們開始找尋一些替代品

And they saw in the fall that there was this natural,

在秋天的時候他們發現了這全天然

beautiful, sweet, delicious fat from geese.

甜美，可口的鵝脂肪

And they slaughtered them, used the fat throughout the winter for cooking.

他們把鵝殺了，整個冬天就用這油來煮

The Pharaoh got wind of this --

法老聽說了

This is true, right off the Internet.

這千真萬確，我從網路上找的

The Pharaoh got -- (Laughter)

法老聽 （笑聲）

I swear to God.

我對神發誓

(Laughter)

（笑聲）

The Pharaoh got wind of this and wanted to taste it.

埃及法老聽說了，想要嘗嘗看

He tasted it and fell in love with it.

他嘗了，愛上了這個滋味

He started demanding it.

他開始要求廚房提供給他

And he didn't want it just in the fall, he wanted it all year round.

不止在秋天，他全年都要

And he demanded that the Jews supply enough for everyone.

他要求猶太人要讓每個人都能吃到

And the Jews, fearing for their life,

擔心自己生命安全的猶太人

had to come up with an ingenious idea,

想出了一個前所未有的點子

or at least try and satisfy the Pharaoh's wishes, of course.

嘗試滿足埃及法老的要求

And they invented, what? Gavage.

他們發明了 － 強餵法

They invented gavage in a great moment of fear for their lives,

他們是在生命威脅下發明強餵法的

and they provided the Pharaoh with gavage liver,

他們把餵肥了的肝獻給埃及法老

and the good stuff they kept for themselves.

然後把好的部分留下給自己

Supposedly, anyway. I believe that one.

應該是，至少我相信

That's the history of foie gras.

這就是肥鵝肝的來源

And if you think about it,

如果我們思考

it's the history of industrial agriculture.

農業產業化的歷史

It's the history of what we eat today.

就是我們今日食物的歷史

Most of what we eat today.

今天我們所吃的食物大部分都是

Mega-farms, feed lots, chemical amendments,

巨型農場、集體餵食、化學改良

long-distance travel, food processing.

長距離的運送過程，工廠處理

All of it, our food system.

全在我們的食物系統裏

That's also an insult to history.

這也是對歷史的污辱

It's an insult to the basic laws of nature

對自然法則的污辱

and of biology.

以及對生物的污辱

Whether we're talking about beef cattle

無論是肉牛

or we're talking about chickens,

雞

or we're talking about broccoli or Brussels sprouts,

花椰菜或是抱子甘藍

or in the case of this morning's New York Times, catfish --

或是今天早上紐約時報的報導 － 鯰魚

which wholesale are going out of business.

的批發商的經營失利

Whatever it is, it's a mindset that is reminiscent of General Motors.

無論如何，這就像通用汽車

It's rooted in extraction.

都是需索無度

Take more, sell more, waste more.

拿取，販賣，浪費

And for the future it won't serve us.

在未來這些都不再存在

Jonas Salk has a great quote.

Jonas Saik 說過一金句

He said, "If all the insects disappeared,

他說“如果所有昆蟲消失

life on Earth as we know it would disappear within 50 years.

我們所知道的地球萬物在50年內會全部消失，

If human beings disappeared, life on Earth as we know it would flourish."

如果人類消失，地球萬物會蓬勃生長。”

And he's right.

他是對的

We need now to adopt a new conception of agriculture.

我們需要接受一種新的農業概念

Really new.

完全嶄新

One in which we stop treating the planet

我們不能再把地球

as if it were some kind of business in liquidation.

當作一個幾乎破產的公司

And stop degrading resources under the guise of

停止利用便宜食物之名來

cheap food.

浪費資源

We can start by looking to farmers like Eduardo.

我們可以以 Eduardo 這樣的農夫為例子

Farmers that rely on nature

農夫靠天吃飯

for solutions, for answers,

靠自然提供答案

rather than imposing solutions on nature.

與其勉強自然接受人為的解答

Listening as Janine Benyus,

我最喜歡的作家和思想家

one of my favorite writers and thinkers about this topic says,

Janine Benyus 這麼說

"Listening to nature's operating instructions."

“遵照自然的使用說明”

That's what Eduardo does, and does so brilliantly.

這就是 Eduardo 所達成的

And what he showed me and what he can show all of us, I think,

他顯示給我們我們在場每個人，包括我，看的

is that the great thing for chefs, the great blessing for chefs,

對廚師和那些關係食物和廚藝的人們

and for people that care about food and cooking,

來說最好的事是

is that the most ecological choice for food

最符合自然的食物選擇

is also the most ethical choice for food.

也是最符合倫理道德的食物選擇

Whether we're talking about Brussels sprouts or foie gras.

無論我們討論的是抱子甘藍還是肥鵝肝

And it's also almost always, and I haven't found an example otherwise,

幾乎總是，我從未發現其他可能

but almost always, the most delicious choice.

這也是最美味的選擇

That's serendipitous.

渾然天成。

Thank you.

謝謝。

(Applause)

（掌聲）