5 skin health myths to stop believing now | Body Stuff with Dr. Jen Gunter

Transcriber:

We put a lot of importance into caring for our skin,

翻译人员: 新 陈 校对人员: Carol Wang

我们非常重视对皮肤的护理，

which makes sense, since it's the first thing other people see.

这并非没有道理，

毕竟人们一眼就会看到它。

Skin might also be one of the most misunderstood parts of our bodies,

皮肤可能也是受误解最深的 身体部位之一，

so today, I'd like to run through some of the most common myths

所以，今天我想简要谈谈

人们对皮肤最常见的几大误解。

we have about our skin.

(Music)

[Body Stuff with Dr. Jen Gunter]

[珍·冈特博士谈关于身体的那些事 ]

(Music)

Myth number one – healthy skin is skin that looks flawless.

误区一：健康的皮肤就是 看起来没有瑕疵的皮肤。

When we think of healthy skin,

当我们想到健康的皮肤时，

we might think of a clear,

可能会想到一个干净平坦的表面，

even surface that's radiant and devoid of blemishes.

它光彩照人、毫无瑕疵。

但像心脏或肺一样， 皮肤是一个有生命的器官，

But skin is a living organ,

just like the heart or lungs and just like any other organ,

也如其他任何一个器官一样，

it's complex, serves many functions,

它很复杂，有很多功能，

and not just about what's going on at the surface.

不能单就表面而论。

The epidermis is the outer layer we can see.

表皮是我们能看到的外面那层构造，

It's made up of different cell types,

它由不同类型的细胞组成，

including keratinocytes, which are replaced every four weeks.

其中包括角质形成细胞， 这些细胞每四周更新一次。

As new cells grow at the base, old cells are pushed up

新细胞在基底不断增殖时， 老化的细胞向上移动，

and form a harder layer that's difficult for water or microbes to cross.

形成坚韧的角质层， 防止水分丧失和微生物入侵。

Our keratinocytes also synthesize vitamin D from the sun,

角质形成细胞在阳光照射时 还能合成维生素 D，

which is vital for our health.

这对我们的健康十分重要。

Other important cells in the epidermis include melanocytes,

表皮层中的其他重要细胞 包括黑色素细胞，

which produce melanin or our skin pigment,

它产生黑色素或皮肤色素，

and Langerhans cells,

以及郎格罕细胞，

which are like little security guards on patrol for pathogens.

它们像巡逻的小小保镖， 防止抗原作祟。

The dermis, our skin's tough second layer,

真皮是皮肤结构中的 第二层，它十分坚韧，

isn't as well known.

却不像表皮那样为人们熟知。

It's a scaffold of collagen that's home to blood vessels,

它主要由胶原蛋白构成的支架，

hair follicles and glands.

内含血管、毛囊和腺体。

It's also packed with special nerve cells called sensory receptors

真皮层遍布特殊的神经细胞， 被称为感受器，

that allow us to feel pressure, vibration, even pain,

它们使我们能够感觉到 压力、振动甚至疼痛，

some of which extend into the epidermis.

其中一些会延伸到表皮层。

The dermis also helps regulate temperature.

真皮层还可以帮我们调节温度。

If we're cold, our blood vessels contract to retain heat,

如果我们感觉冷， 血管会收缩以保存热量；

and if we're hot, they expand to release it.

而如果我们感觉热， 它们就会扩张以释放热量。

We're told to exfoliate and tone and condition our skin,

别人告诉我们要用 滚轮按摩仪、精华液和激光

to use rollers and serums and lasers.

去角质、调理和保养皮肤，

Some of that does work,

其中一些方法确实有效，

especially for folks with specific skin conditions,

特别是对那些皮肤状况 比较特殊的人更是如此，

but for normal to healthy skin,

但如果我们的皮肤处于 正常到健康的状态，

we might be spending a lot of money on bunk products,

就可能花很多冤枉钱购买劣质产品，

because healthy skin is simply skin that does its jobs.

因为正常工作的皮肤 就是健康的皮肤。

Myth number two – you only need sunscreen on sunny days.

误区二：只需在晴天涂抹防晒霜。

Ultraviolet rays from the sun are so strong,

阳光中的紫外线非常强烈，

they damage our cells' DNA.

它们会损害我们细胞的基因。

There are two types that affect the skin.

有两种类型的紫外线会损伤皮肤：

UVA rays penetrate the dermis,

一是长波紫外线，它会穿透真皮层。

damaging the collagen scaffold and accelerating aging.

破坏其中的胶原蛋白成分 并加速皮肤老化；

UVB rays, meanwhile, cook the epidermis, causing sunburn.

另一个是中波紫外线， 它会灼烧表皮，导致晒伤。

While our cells can repair that damage, it accumulates over time,

虽然我们的细胞可自行修复损伤，

但是时间一长， 这种损伤会不断加深，

and for some people, it can lead to skin cancer.

一些人会因此得皮肤癌。

Our skin has a defense system.

我们的皮肤有一个防御系统，

When it's exposed to UV, our melanocytes release more melanin

当皮肤暴露在紫外线下时， 黑色素细胞会释放更多黑色素，

and we get a tan.

我们的皮肤会被晒黑。

This process is actually our skin's way of showing it's been damaged,

这一过程实际上是皮肤 在告诉我们它已经受到损伤，

and protecting itself from more.

它正在采取措施 防止受到进一步的损伤。

So by wearing sunscreen with an SPF of 30, even when it’s cloudy,

因此，即使是阴天， 你也要用 30 倍的防晒霜，

you’re protecting yourself from sunburn, early aging and skin cancer.

以预防皮肤晒伤、早衰和皮肤癌。

Just choose one that's broad spectrum.

选择广谱防晒霜就可以了，

That means it's blocking UVA and UVB rays.

广谱防晒霜可以阻挡 长波紫外线和中波紫外线。

Myth number three –

误区三：

people with darker skin don't need sunscreen.

皮肤较黑的人不需要防晒霜。

Most of us produce two types of melanin –

我们大多数人都会产生 两种类型的黑色素——

eumelanin, associated with richer, brown tones,

与深色、棕色皮肤有关的真黑素

and pheomelanin, associated with lighter skin and freckles.

以及与浅色皮肤和雀斑 有关的棕黑色素。

Our skin color depends on the ratio between those two types of melanin

我们的皮肤颜色取决于 这两种黑色素的比例，

and the density of pigment creating structures within our cells.

以及在我们的细胞内 形成自身结构的色素的密度。

It's true that having more melanin, specifically that first type,

诚然，更多黑色素 特别是第一种类型的黑色素

does offer some protection from the sun,

确实可以起到一些保护皮肤 免受太阳光线损伤的作用，

depending on how dark our skin is,

防护效果取决于我们的皮肤有多黑。

we do have some natural SPF, but it's not nearly enough.

我们的确有一些天然防晒机制， 但这还远远不够。

We all need sunscreen to ward off damage.

每个人都需要防晒霜来抵御伤害。

Black and Hispanic patients

黑人和拉美裔患者，

are also more likely to have skin cancer detected at advanced stages.

发现皮肤癌时已是晚期的几率更高。

Why? Because of the many ways that racism permeates medicine.

为什么？因为种族主义 以多种方式渗透到医学领域。

The majority of dermatologists are white,

大多数皮肤科医生是白人，

and we're trained to diagnose on white skin.

他们接受的训练只告诉他们 如何对白色皮肤的状况进行诊断。

Meanwhile, people of color have heard this myth

与此同时，有色人种经常听到的是

of darker skin not being susceptible to skin cancer repeated.

深色皮肤不容易 患皮肤癌的错误观点。

Black patients are also less likely to receive early screenings,

黑人患者也较少接受 皮肤癌早期筛查，

leading to the delayed diagnosis.

到发现时为时已晚。

One particular dangerous form of skin cancer,

一种特别危险的皮肤癌

acral melanoma,

—— 尖锐黑素瘤，

doesn't even come from ultraviolet exposure,

甚至都不是由紫外线照射引起的，

and it shows up in parts of the body that we might not think about –

它出现在我们可能 都不会想到的部位——

nail beds and the bottoms of our feet.

甲床和脚底。

It's an area we need more messaging about,

我们需要对这方面多加宣传，

especially for people of color,

特别是要向有色人种宣传，

who experience higher levels of distrust toward doctors

他们长年受到美国 医疗系统的不公正对待，

after years of mistreatment by the American Medical System.

对医生更加缺乏信任。

Myth number four – you can shrink your pores.

误区四：你可以收缩毛孔。

Pores are the tiny openings in our skin.

毛孔是我们皮肤上的微小开口，

If you go further down, you'll find a hair follicle or gland.

再往下就是毛囊或腺体。

You can think of pores as ducts.

你可以把毛孔看作是管道，

They're what let sweat cool you and oil lubricate your skin.

它们排出汗液使你感到凉爽， 分泌油脂润滑你的皮肤。

Pore size is largely determined by genetics,

毛孔的大小在很大程度上 是由基因决定的，

and they don't really shrink,

它们并不会真的收缩，

but they can expand when our skin is irritated

倒是会在皮肤受到化妆品

或刺激性产品的刺激时扩张。

by makeup or harsh products.

So save your money on pore minimizers and just wash your face

因此，省下购买毛孔缩小用品的钱，

用皮肤科医生推荐的不会引起 粉刺的产品清洁面部就可以了——

with what dermatologists recommend as noncomedogenic –

基本上就是那些 所含成分不会堵塞毛孔的产品。

basically, made from stuff that won't clog pores.

Myth number five – chocolate causes acne.

误区五：吃巧克力会生粉刺。

Acne is the inflammation that occurs

粉刺是

when our hair follicles get clogged with oil and dead skin,

油脂和死皮堵塞毛囊

allowing bacteria to overgrow.

导致细菌滋长而引起的炎症，

There are a lot of factors involved,

引发粉刺的原因多种多样，

from hormones to genetics.

激素、遗传等等都有影响。

The link between acne and chocolate has been studied extensively,

粉刺和巧克力之间的联系 已经被广泛研究，

but the results are pretty trash.

却没有一个结果 真正令人信服。

Studies that say chocolate is an acne aggravator

声称巧克力会加重粉刺的研究 本就为数不多，

tend to be small, so aren't conclusive,

所以不足为信。

and studies that absolve chocolate

而那些为巧克力辩白的研究，

are sometimes funded by chocolate makers.

有时是由巧克力制造商资助的。

Studying diet and its effect on acne is complex,

饮食及其与粉刺的关系 研究起来十分复杂，

but the research suggests

但研究表明，

that the healthiest diet for your body overall

对身体最健康的饮食

could also be the healthiest diet for your skin.

可能也是对你皮肤最健康的饮食。

Our skin is an amazing organ,

我们的皮肤是一个神奇的器官，

so let's remember to treat it right.

切记不要随意对待它。

Wear your sunscreen, keep an eye on any moles

要涂抹防晒霜，留意身上的痣，

and see a dermatologist if there are any changes.

如果出现任何异常， 要去看皮肤科医生。

And ignore those myths, OK?

不要理会那些错误的说法，好吗？