5 skin health myths to stop believing now | Body Stuff with Dr. Jen Gunter

Transcriber:

We put a lot of importance into caring for our skin,

Prevoditelj: Petra Lauš Recezent: Ivan Luka Sabolović

Veliku važnost pridajemo brizi za kožu,

which makes sense, since it's the first thing other people see.

što ima smisla jer koža je ono što ljudi prvo vide.

Skin might also be one of the most misunderstood parts of our bodies,

Koža je možda jedan od najneshvaćenijih dijelova tijela,

so today, I'd like to run through some of the most common myths

danas razotkrivam najčešće mitove

we have about our skin.

o našoj koži.

(Music)

(Glazba)

[Body Stuff with Dr. Jen Gunter]

[Body Stuff s dr. Jen Gunter]

(Music)

(Glazba)

Myth number one – healthy skin is skin that looks flawless.

Mit broj jedan - besprijekorna koža je zdrava koža.

When we think of healthy skin,

Kada pomislimo na zdravu kožu,

we might think of a clear,

možda pomislimo na čistu

even surface that's radiant and devoid of blemishes.

i jednoliku površinu koja sjaji i nema mrlja.

But skin is a living organ,

No koža je živi organ,

just like the heart or lungs and just like any other organ,

baš poput srca, pluća ili bilo kojeg drugog organa,

it's complex, serves many functions,

koža je složena i ima mnogo funkcija,

and not just about what's going on at the surface.

i to ne samo one vezane uz samu površinu kože.

The epidermis is the outer layer we can see.

Epiderma je vanjski sloj kože koji vidimo.

It's made up of different cell types,

Čine ga razne vrste stanica,

including keratinocytes, which are replaced every four weeks.

uključujući keratinocite koji se obnavljaju svaka četiri tjedna.

As new cells grow at the base, old cells are pushed up

Kako nove stanice rastu i stare guraju prema gore,

and form a harder layer that's difficult for water or microbes to cross.

stvara se tvrdi sloj kroz koji ne mogu proći mikrobi ni voda.

Our keratinocytes also synthesize vitamin D from the sun,

Keratinociti sintetiziraju vitamin D od sunčeve svjetlosti,

which is vital for our health.

koji je ključan za naše zdravlje.

Other important cells in the epidermis include melanocytes,

Ostale važne stanice u epidermi su melanociti,

which produce melanin or our skin pigment,

koji stvaraju melanin ili pigment kože

and Langerhans cells,

i Langerhansove stanice,

which are like little security guards on patrol for pathogens.

koje imaju ulogu zaštite od patogena.

The dermis, our skin's tough second layer,

Derma, drugi sloj kože,

isn't as well known.

nije tako dobro poznata.

It's a scaffold of collagen that's home to blood vessels,

Derma se sastoji od kolagena, krvnih žila,

hair follicles and glands.

folikula dlake i žlijezdi.

It's also packed with special nerve cells called sensory receptors

Tamo su i posebne živčane stanice zvane osjetilni receptori,

that allow us to feel pressure, vibration, even pain,

putem kojih osjećamo pritisak, vibraciju te čak i bol,

some of which extend into the epidermis.

neki od receptora sežu u epidermu.

The dermis also helps regulate temperature.

Derma pomaže i u regulaciji temperature.

If we're cold, our blood vessels contract to retain heat,

Ako nam je hladno, žile se skupljaju da zadrže toplinu,

and if we're hot, they expand to release it.

a ako nam je vruće, žile se šire da otpuste toplinu.

We're told to exfoliate and tone and condition our skin,

Stalno se govori eksfolijaciji i toniranju kože,

to use rollers and serums and lasers.

korištenju valjaka, seruma i lasera.

Some of that does work,

Neke od tih metoda djeluju,

especially for folks with specific skin conditions,

posebice kod osoba koje imaju kožnih problema,

but for normal to healthy skin,

ali za normalnu i zdravu kožu,

we might be spending a lot of money on bunk products,

to je trošenja novca uludo.

because healthy skin is simply skin that does its jobs.

Zdrava koža je ona koža koja obavlja svoje zadatke.

Myth number two – you only need sunscreen on sunny days.

Mit broj dva - krema za sunčanje potrebna je samo kada se sunčamo.

Ultraviolet rays from the sun are so strong,

Ultraljubičaste zrake tako su jake

they damage our cells' DNA.

da nanose štetu DNK-u stanica.

There are two types that affect the skin.

Dvije su vrste ultraljubičastog zračenja.

UVA rays penetrate the dermis,

UVA zrake prodiru kroz dermu

damaging the collagen scaffold and accelerating aging.

i oštećuju kolagen te ubrzavaju starenje.

UVB rays, meanwhile, cook the epidermis, causing sunburn.

UVB zrake kuhaju epidermu i uzrokuju opekline.

While our cells can repair that damage, it accumulates over time,

Stanice mogu popraviti štetu, no ona se nakuplja

and for some people, it can lead to skin cancer.

i kod nekih osoba može dovesti do raka kože.

Our skin has a defense system.

Koža ima obrambeni mehanizam.

When it's exposed to UV, our melanocytes release more melanin

Kada je izložena UV zrakama, melanociti stvaraju melanin

and we get a tan.

i koža tamni.

This process is actually our skin's way of showing it's been damaged,

Na taj način koža pokazuje da je oštećena

and protecting itself from more.

i štiti se od dodatnih oštećenja.

So by wearing sunscreen with an SPF of 30, even when it’s cloudy,

Ako koristite kremu zaštitnog faktora 30 čak i kada je oblačno,

you’re protecting yourself from sunburn, early aging and skin cancer.

štitite se od opeklina, ranog starenja i raka kože.

Just choose one that's broad spectrum.

Odaberite kremu širokog spektra.

That means it's blocking UVA and UVB rays.

Onu koja blokira UVA i UVB zrake.

Myth number three –

Mit broj tri.

people with darker skin don't need sunscreen.

Tamnoputi ljudi ne trebaju kremu za sunčanje.

Most of us produce two types of melanin –

Većina nas stvara dvije vrste melanina,

eumelanin, associated with richer, brown tones,

eumelanin, koji se povezuje s tamnijom kožom

and pheomelanin, associated with lighter skin and freckles.

i feomelanin koji se povezuje sa svjetlijom kožom i pjegicama.

Our skin color depends on the ratio between those two types of melanin

Boja kože ovisi o omjeru tih dviju vrsta melanina

and the density of pigment creating structures within our cells.

i gustoći pigmenta u stanicama.

It's true that having more melanin, specifically that first type,

Istina je da veća količina melanina, osobito melanina prve vrste,

does offer some protection from the sun,

pruža određenu zaštitu od sunca,

depending on how dark our skin is,

ovisno o tamnoći kože,

we do have some natural SPF, but it's not nearly enough.

imamo određenu količinu prirodnog zaštitnog faktora, ali on nije dovoljan.

We all need sunscreen to ward off damage.

Svi trebamo kremu za sunčanje da spriječimo štetu.

Black and Hispanic patients

Kod crnaca i Latinoamerikanaca

are also more likely to have skin cancer detected at advanced stages.

češće se rak kože otkriva u uznapredovalom stadiju.

Why? Because of the many ways that racism permeates medicine.

Zašto? Rasizam na mnoge načine prožima medicinu.

The majority of dermatologists are white,

Većina dermatologa su bijelci,

and we're trained to diagnose on white skin.

i obrazovani smo da dijagnozu postavljamo na bijeloj koži.

Meanwhile, people of color have heard this myth

Tamnoputi ljudi čuli su za mit

of darker skin not being susceptible to skin cancer repeated.

da rak kože ne zahvaća tamnu kožu.

Black patients are also less likely to receive early screenings,

Manja je vjerojatnost za rano otkrivanje bolesti u crnačkoj populaciji,

leading to the delayed diagnosis.

što dovodi do kasne dijagnoze.

One particular dangerous form of skin cancer,

Uzrok jedne opasne vrste raka kože,

acral melanoma,

akralnog melanoma,

doesn't even come from ultraviolet exposure,

nije izloženost ultraljubičastim zrakama

and it shows up in parts of the body that we might not think about –

te se taj rak pojavljuje na neobičnim mjestima,

nail beds and the bottoms of our feet.

kao što je ležište nokta ili taban.

It's an area we need more messaging about,

Trebamo poraditi na podizanju svijesti o tome,

posebno što se tiče osoba koje nisu bijelci,

especially for people of color,

who experience higher levels of distrust toward doctors

i koje manje vjeruju liječnicima

after years of mistreatment by the American Medical System.

nakon godina zlostavljanja od strane američkog zdravstvenog sustava.

Myth number four – you can shrink your pores.

Mit broj četiri - pore se mogu smanjiti.

Pores are the tiny openings in our skin.

Pore su mali otvori na koži.

If you go further down, you'll find a hair follicle or gland.

Ispod pore nalazi se folikul dlake ili žlijezda.

You can think of pores as ducts.

Pore su kao cijevi.

They're what let sweat cool you and oil lubricate your skin.

Kroz njih vas hladi znoj i kožu vam podmazuje ulje.

Pore size is largely determined by genetics,

Veličina pora određena je genetikom,

and they don't really shrink,

pore se ne smanjuju,

but they can expand when our skin is irritated

ali mogu se proširiti kada je koža iritirana

by makeup or harsh products.

šminkom ili grubim proizvodima.

So save your money on pore minimizers and just wash your face

Nemojte trošiti novac na smanjenje pora, već perite lice

with what dermatologists recommend as noncomedogenic –

s nekomedogenim proizvodima koje preporučaju dermatolozi,

basically, made from stuff that won't clog pores.

ti proizvodi ne začepljuju pore.

Myth number five – chocolate causes acne.

Mit broj pet - čokolada stvara akne.

Acne is the inflammation that occurs

Akne su upale do kojih dolazi

when our hair follicles get clogged with oil and dead skin,

kada se folikul dlake začepi uljem i mrtvim stanicama

allowing bacteria to overgrow.

te se razvijaju bakterije.

There are a lot of factors involved,

Mnogo je čimbenika za to,

from hormones to genetics.

od hormona do genetike,

The link between acne and chocolate has been studied extensively,

Detaljno se istražuje veza između akni i čokolade,

but the results are pretty trash.

ali rezultati nisu pouzdani.

Studies that say chocolate is an acne aggravator

Istraživanja koja kažu da čokolada povećava problem s aknama

tend to be small, so aren't conclusive,

većinom nisu opsežna i uvjerljiva,

and studies that absolve chocolate

istraživanja koja kažu da nije problem u čokoladi

are sometimes funded by chocolate makers.

ponekad financiraju proizvođači čokolade.

Studying diet and its effect on acne is complex,

Proučavanje utjecaja prehrane na akne je složeno,

but the research suggests

ali istraživanja upućuju na to

that the healthiest diet for your body overall

da je najzdravija prehrana za tijelo

could also be the healthiest diet for your skin.

vjerojatno i najzdravija za kožu.

Our skin is an amazing organ,

Koža je nevjerojatni organ,

so let's remember to treat it right.

ne zaboravimo brinuti se o njemu.

Wear your sunscreen, keep an eye on any moles

Mažite se kremom za sunčanje i vodite brigu o madežima,

and see a dermatologist if there are any changes.

posjetite dermatologa ako primijetite promjene.

And ignore those myths, OK?

Ignorirajte mitove, može?