5 skin health myths to stop believing now | Body Stuff with Dr. Jen Gunter

Transcriber:

We put a lot of importance into caring for our skin,

譯者: Lilian Chiu 審譯者: Yi-Ping Cho (Marssi)

我們非常重視照護我們的皮膚，

which makes sense, since it's the first thing other people see.

這也合理，畢竟別人第一眼 看到的就是我們的皮膚。

Skin might also be one of the most misunderstood parts of our bodies,

皮膚可能也是我們身體中 最被誤解的部位。

so today, I'd like to run through some of the most common myths

所以，今天，我想談談 跟皮膚相關最常見的迷思。

we have about our skin.

(Music)

（音樂） 〔身體的五四三，珍甘特博士主持〕

[Body Stuff with Dr. Jen Gunter]

(Music)

Myth number one – healthy skin is skin that looks flawless.

迷思一：

健康的皮膚看起來完美無瑕。

When we think of healthy skin,

說到健康的皮膚，

we might think of a clear,

我們可能會想到乾淨平滑的表面，

even surface that's radiant and devoid of blemishes.

亮到發光，沒有任何瘢點。

但皮膚是活器官，就像心臟或肺，

But skin is a living organ,

just like the heart or lungs and just like any other organ,

且就像所有其他器官一樣，

它很複雜，有許多功能，

it's complex, serves many functions,

and not just about what's going on at the surface.

不只是做做「表面功夫」而已。

The epidermis is the outer layer we can see.

表皮層是我們能看到的外層，

由不同類型的細胞組成，

It's made up of different cell types,

including keratinocytes, which are replaced every four weeks.

包括每四週更替一次的角質細胞。

As new cells grow at the base, old cells are pushed up

當新細胞在基部生長，

舊細胞就會被推上去，

and form a harder layer that's difficult for water or microbes to cross.

形成更堅硬的一層， 水或微生物都難以穿過。

Our keratinocytes also synthesize vitamin D from the sun,

日光照射也能讓角質細胞 合成維生素 D，

which is vital for our health.

對健康很重要。

Other important cells in the epidermis include melanocytes,

表皮層中還有其他重要細胞， 像是黑色素細胞，

會產生黑色素或我們的膚色。

which produce melanin or our skin pigment,

and Langerhans cells,

以及蘭格罕細胞，

which are like little security guards on patrol for pathogens.

就像巡邏的小警衛， 負責對付病原體。

The dermis, our skin's tough second layer,

真皮層是皮膚的第二層，很堅韌，

isn't as well known.

沒有那麼為人所知。

It's a scaffold of collagen that's home to blood vessels,

它是膠原蛋白做的鷹架，

是血管、毛囊，和腺體的家。

hair follicles and glands.

It's also packed with special nerve cells called sensory receptors

這一層還裝滿了特殊的神經細胞，

叫做感覺受器，

that allow us to feel pressure, vibration, even pain,

讓我們能感覺到壓力、 震動，甚至痛楚，

some of which extend into the epidermis.

有些受器會延伸至表皮層。

The dermis also helps regulate temperature.

真皮層也會協助調節溫度。

If we're cold, our blood vessels contract to retain heat,

如果我們覺得冷， 血管會收縮來保留體熱，

and if we're hot, they expand to release it.

如果我們覺得熱， 血管會擴張來散熱。

We're told to exfoliate and tone and condition our skin,

別人教我們要去角質、 管理膚色、保養皮膚，

to use rollers and serums and lasers.

要用滾棒、血清，和雷射。

Some of that does work,

其中有些確實有效，

especially for folks with specific skin conditions,

特別是對有特定皮膚病的人而言，

but for normal to healthy skin,

但若皮膚狀況屬於正常到健康之間，

we might be spending a lot of money on bunk products,

我們可能就白花很多錢買產品了，

because healthy skin is simply skin that does its jobs.

因為健康的皮膚

很單純就是稱職工作的皮膚。

Myth number two – you only need sunscreen on sunny days.

迷思二：

出太陽時才要塗防曬油。

Ultraviolet rays from the sun are so strong,

太陽的紫外線非常強，

they damage our cells' DNA.

足以破壞我們細胞的 DNA。

There are two types that affect the skin.

有兩種紫外線會影響到皮膚。

UVA rays penetrate the dermis,

UVA 射線會穿透真皮層，

damaging the collagen scaffold and accelerating aging.

破壞膠原蛋白鷹架，加速老化。

UVB rays, meanwhile, cook the epidermis, causing sunburn.

至於 UVB 射線則會 燒壞表皮層，造成曬傷。

While our cells can repair that damage, it accumulates over time,

雖然我們的細胞能修復這類損傷，

但隨著時間積累，

and for some people, it can lead to skin cancer.

有些人會因此得到皮膚癌。

Our skin has a defense system.

我們的皮膚也有防禦系統。

When it's exposed to UV, our melanocytes release more melanin

暴露在紫外線下時，

黑色素細胞會釋放更多黑色素，

and we get a tan.

我們就會曬黑。

This process is actually our skin's way of showing it's been damaged,

皮膚其實是透過這個過程 來表示它受到損傷，

and protecting itself from more.

以保護它不要再受到更多損傷。

So by wearing sunscreen with an SPF of 30, even when it’s cloudy,

所以，即使是陰天也要 塗抹防曬係數三十的防曬油，

you’re protecting yourself from sunburn, early aging and skin cancer.

這樣才能保護自己不會曬傷、 提早老化，以及得皮膚癌。

Just choose one that's broad spectrum.

選一種廣效的防曬油即可。

That means it's blocking UVA and UVB rays.

廣效表示可以阻擋 UVA 以及 UVB 射線。

Myth number three –

迷思三：

people with darker skin don't need sunscreen.

膚色較深的人不用防曬。

Most of us produce two types of melanin –

大部分的人會產生兩種黑色素：

eumelanin, associated with richer, brown tones,

真黑色素，與更多樣的 棕色膚色有關，

and pheomelanin, associated with lighter skin and freckles.

還有偽黑色素，與較淺的 膚色及雀斑有關。

Our skin color depends on the ratio between those two types of melanin

我們的膚色取決於 這兩種黑色素的比例，

and the density of pigment creating structures within our cells.

及細胞內建造結構的色素 有多高的密度。

It's true that having more melanin, specifically that first type,

的確，有更多黑色素， 明確來說是第一種黑色素，

does offer some protection from the sun,

的確有些對抗太陽的保護效果，

depending on how dark our skin is,

根據膚色的深淺，

we do have some natural SPF, but it's not nearly enough.

我們的確有些天然的防曬係數，

但離足夠還差得遠呢。

We all need sunscreen to ward off damage.

我們都需要防曬油來防止受傷害。

Black and Hispanic patients

黑人和西班牙裔患者

也比較有可能到了 皮膚癌末期才發現罹癌。

are also more likely to have skin cancer detected at advanced stages.

Why? Because of the many ways that racism permeates medicine.

為什麼？因為種族主義會 透過多種方式滲透到醫學中。

The majority of dermatologists are white,

皮膚科醫生多數是白人，

and we're trained to diagnose on white skin.

我們受到的訓練是對白皮膚做診斷，

Meanwhile, people of color have heard this myth

同時，有色人種也不斷聽到這個迷思，

of darker skin not being susceptible to skin cancer repeated.

相信膚色較深就不易得到皮膚癌。

Black patients are also less likely to receive early screenings,

黑人病人也比較少接受早期篩檢，

導致太晚才診斷出來。

leading to the delayed diagnosis.

One particular dangerous form of skin cancer,

有種特別危險的皮膚癌稱為

acral melanoma,

肢端黑色素瘤，

doesn't even come from ultraviolet exposure,

這種皮膚癌甚至不是 因為暴露在紫外線底下造成的，

and it shows up in parts of the body that we might not think about –

且它會出現在身上意想不到的部位，

nail beds and the bottoms of our feet.

指甲的甲床和腳底。

It's an area we need more messaging about,

我們需要在這個領域傳遞更多訊息，

especially for people of color,

特別是針對有色人種宣導，

who experience higher levels of distrust toward doctors

他們比較不信任醫生，

after years of mistreatment by the American Medical System.

因為他們長年都受到 美國醫療系統的不當對待。

Myth number four – you can shrink your pores.

迷思四：可以把毛孔縮小。

毛孔是皮膚上的微小開口。

Pores are the tiny openings in our skin.

If you go further down, you'll find a hair follicle or gland.

順著毛孔往下，會發現毛囊和腺體。

You can think of pores as ducts.

可以把毛孔想像成導管。

They're what let sweat cool you and oil lubricate your skin.

有毛孔，流汗才能讓你冷卻， 油脂才能潤滑皮膚。

毛孔大小主要取決於基因，

Pore size is largely determined by genetics,

and they don't really shrink,

且毛孔不會縮小，

but they can expand when our skin is irritated

但當皮膚被化妝品或粗糙產品 刺激時，毛孔會擴張。

by makeup or harsh products.

So save your money on pore minimizers and just wash your face

所以，別花錢買縮小毛孔的產品，

用皮膚科醫生推薦的 防粉刺產品洗臉就好——

with what dermatologists recommend as noncomedogenic –

基本上，這類產品的 成分不會堵塞毛孔。

basically, made from stuff that won't clog pores.

Myth number five – chocolate causes acne.

迷思五：

吃巧克力會長痘痘。

Acne is the inflammation that occurs

青春痘是種發炎，成因是

when our hair follicles get clogged with oil and dead skin,

毛囊被油脂和死皮堵塞，

allowing bacteria to overgrow.

讓細菌過度生長。

There are a lot of factors involved,

相關的因素很多，

from hormones to genetics.

從荷爾蒙到基因都有可能。

The link between acne and chocolate has been studied extensively,

有很多研究在探討 青春痘和巧克力的關係，

but the results are pretty trash.

但研究結果很沒價值。

Studies that say chocolate is an acne aggravator

說巧克力會讓青春痘更嚴重的研究

tend to be small, so aren't conclusive,

多半是無法做出結論的小型研究；

and studies that absolve chocolate

而認為巧克力無罪的研究，

are sometimes funded by chocolate makers.

有些是巧克力製造商出資做的。

Studying diet and its effect on acne is complex,

研究飲食及它對青春痘的 影響是很複雜的事，

but the research suggests

但，研究指出，對你的身體 整體而言最健康的飲食，

that the healthiest diet for your body overall

could also be the healthiest diet for your skin.

可能也是對你的皮膚最健康的飲食。

Our skin is an amazing organ,

皮膚是很神奇的器官， 別忘了要正確地對待它。

so let's remember to treat it right.

要塗防曬油，注意每一顆痣，

Wear your sunscreen, keep an eye on any moles

and see a dermatologist if there are any changes.

如果痣有發生任何變化， 要去看皮膚科醫生。

And ignore those myths, OK?

還有，別理會那些迷思，好嗎？