Virginia Postrel: The power of glamour

Prevodilac: Ivana Krivokuća Lektor: Tijana Mihajlović

You might be wondering why I'm wearing sunglasses,

Možda se pitate zašto nosim naočare za sunce,

and one answer to that is, because I'm here to talk about glamour.

a jedan od odgovora na to je da sam ovde da govorim o glamuru.

So, we all think we know what glamour is. Here it is.

Svi mislimo da znamo šta je glamur. Evo ga.

It's glamorous movie stars, like Marlene Dietrich.

To su glamurozne filmske zvezde, poput Marlen Ditrih.

And it comes in a male form, too --

Postoji i u muškom obličju; vrlo je glamurozan.

very glamorous.

Not only can he shoot, drive, drink -- you know, he drinks wine,

Ne samo da može da puca, vozi, pije - znate, on pije vino,

there actually is a little wine in there --

tu zapravo ima malo vina -

and of course, always wears a tuxedo.

i naravno, uvek nosi smoking.

But I think that glamour actually has a much broader meaning --

Međutim, ja smatram da glamur u stvari ima mnogo šire značenje,

one that is true for the movie stars and the fictional characters,

jedno koje važi za filmske zvezde i izmišljene likove,

but also comes in other forms.

ali takođe se javlja i u drugim oblicima.

A magazine?

Časopis?

Pa, sigurno nije ovaj.

Well, it's certainly not this one.

Ovo je najmanje glamurozan časopis na trafici; sve sami saveti o seksu.

This is the least glamorous magazine on the newsstand -- it's all about sex tips.

Sex tips are not glamorous.

Saveti vezani za seks nisu glamurozni.

A ni Dru Barimur, pored njenog divnog šarma,

And Drew Barrymore, for all her wonderful charm,

is not glamorous either.

nije glamurozna.

Međutim, postoji glamur industrije.

But there is a glamour of industry.

This is Margaret Bourke-White's --

Ovo je jedna od slika koju je uradila Margaret Burk-Vajt.

one of her pictures she did.

Fantastične, glamurozne slike čeličana, fabrika hartije

Fantastic, glamorous pictures

of steel mills and paper mills and all kinds of glamorous industrial places.

i raznih glamuroznih industrijskih mesta.

And there's the mythic glamour

Tu je i mitski glamur preduzetnika u garaži.

of the garage entrepreneur.

This is the Hewlett-Packard garage.

Ovo je Hjulet-Pakard garaža.

We know everyone who starts a business in a garage

Znamo da svako ko započne posao u garaži

ends up founding Hewlett-Packard.

na kraju zasnuje Hjulet-Pakard.

There's the glamour of physics.

Postoji glamur fizike.

Šta može biti glamuroznije

What could be more glamorous than understanding the entire universe,

od razumevanja čitavog univerzuma, velikog sjedinjenja?

grand unification? And, by the way, it helps if you're Brian Greene --

Uzgred, pomaže ako ste Brajan Grin; on poseduje druge vrste glamura.

he has other kinds of glamour.

Naravno, postoji i ovaj glamur.

And there is, of course, this glamour.

This is very, very glamorous: the glamour of outer space --

Ovo je vrlo, vrlo glamurozno - glamur svemira,

and not the alien-style glamour,

i to ne glamur u stilu vanzemaljaca,

but the nice, clean, early '60s version.

već fina, čista verzija iz ranih '60-ih godina.

So what do we mean by glamour?

Dakle, šta podrazumevamo pod glamurom?

Well, one thing you can do if you want to know what glamour means

Pa, jedna od stvari koju možete učiniti

ako hoćete da znate šta glamur znači je da ga potražite u rečniku.

is you can look in the dictionary.

Zapravo, mnogo više pomaže ako potražite u vrlo starom rečniku,

And it actually helps a lot more if you look in a very old dictionary,

in this case the 1913 dictionary.

u ovom slučaju rečniku iz 1913. godine,

Because for centuries, glamour had a very particular meaning,

jer je glamur vekovima imao vrlo specifično značenje

and the word was actually used differently from the way we think of it.

i ta reč je zapravo različito korišćena u odnosu na to kako je mi zamišljamo.

You had "a" glamour.

Tada ste imali određeni glamur.

Nije to bio glamur kao osobina; „glamur bacate“.

It wasn't glamour as a quality -- you "cast a glamour."

Glamour was a literal magic spell.

Glamur je bukvalno bio magija.

Not a metaphorical one, the way we use it today,

Ne u metaforičnom smislu koji koristimo danas,

but a literal magic spell associated with witches and gypsies

već doslovno čarolija vezana za veštice i Cigane,

and to some extent, Celtic magic.

a do izvesne mere i za keltsku magiju.

Tokom godina, uoči preokreta 20. veka,

And over the years, around the turn of the 20th century,

it started to take on this other kind of deception --

počeo je da poprima ovo druge obličje varke,

this definition for any artificial interest in, or association with,

tu definiciju za bilo kakvo površno interesovanje ili povezanost sa objektom

an object through which it appears delusively magnified or glorified.

kroz koje on deluje varljivo uveličano i glorifikovano.

Ipak, glamur je iluzija.

But still, glamour is an illusion.

Glamour is a magic spell.

Glamur je začaranost.

And there's something dangerous about glamour

Nešto opasno u vezi sa glamurom provlači se kroz veći deo istorije.

throughout most of history. When the witches cast a magic spell

Kada veštice bace magične čini na vas, to nije u vašem interesu,

on you, it was not in your self-interest --

već da vas nateraju da postupate protiv svojih interesa.

it was to get you to act against your interest.

Well of course, in the 20th century,

Naravno, u 20. veku,

glamour came to have this different meaning associated with Hollywood.

glamur je dobio ovo drugačije značenje koje se vezuje za Holivud.

And this is Hedy Lamarr.

Ovo je Hedi Lamar.

Hedy Lamarr said, "Anyone can look glamorous,

Hedi Lamar je rekla: „Svako može izgledati glamurozno.

all you have to do is sit there and look stupid." (Laughter)

Sve što treba da radite je da sedite i izgledate glupo.“ (Smeh)

But in fact, with all due respect to Hedy --

Međutim, zapravo, uz dužno poštovanje prema Hedi -

about whom we'll hear more later -- there's a lot more to it.

o kojoj ćemo više čuti kasnije - to uključuje mnogo više stvari.

Došlo je do ogromne količine tehničkih dostignuća

There was a tremendous amount of technical achievement

associated with creating this Hollywood glamour.

vezanih za stvaranje ovog holivudskog glamura.

There were scores of retouchers and lighting experts and make-up experts.

Pojavilo se mnoštvo retušera, stručnjaka za osvetljenje i šminku.

You can go to the museum of Hollywood history in Hollywood

Možete otići u muzej holivudske istorije u Holivudu i videti

and see Max Factor's special rooms that he painted different colors

Maks Faktorove specijalne sobe koje je farbao različitim bojama

depending on the complexion of the star he was going to make up.

u zavisnosti od tena zvezde koju je trebalo da šminka.

So you've got this highly stylized portrait of something

Dakle, imate taj izuzetno stilizovani portret nečega

that was not entirely of this earth -- it was a portrait of a star.

što nije sasvim sa ove planete - to je portret zvezde.

And actually, we see glamorized photos of stars all the time --

Zapravo, mi stalno viđamo glamurizovane fotografije zvezda.

they call them false color.

Nazivaju ih lažne boje.

Glamur je oblik falsifikovanja,

Glamour is a form of falsification,

ali falsifikovanja da bi se postigla određena svrha.

but falsification to achieve a particular purpose.

It may be to illuminate the star; it may be to sell a film.

Ona može biti da se zvezda obasja ili možda da se proda film.

To uključuje mnogo tehnike.

And it involves a great deal of technique.

It's not -- glamour is not something --

Glamur nije nešto što... ne probudite se ujutru glamurozni.

you don't wake up in the morning glamorous. I don't care who you are.

Ko god da ste. Čak ni Nikol Kidman se ne probudi ujutru glamurozna.

Even Nicole Kidman doesn't wake up in the morning glamorous.

Tu je proces „idealizacije, veličanja i dramatizacije“,

There is a process of "idealization, glorification and dramatization,"

and it's not just the case for people.

a to ne važi samo za ljude.

Glamour doesn't have to be people.

Glamur ne mora da podrazumeva ljude.

Architectural photography --

Arhitekturna fotografija -

Julius Schulman, who has talked about transfiguration,

Džulijus Šulman, koji je govorio o preobražavanju,

took this fabulous, famous picture of the Kauffman House.

uslikao je ovu fenomenalnu, čuvenu sliku Kaufmanove kuće.

Architectural photography is extremely glamorous.

Arhitekturna fotografija je izuzetno glamurozna.

It puts you into this special, special world.

Odvodi vas u neki posebni svet.

This is Alex Ross's comic book art,

Ovo je umetnost stripova Aleksa Rosa,

which appears to be extremely realistic,

koja deluje veoma realistično.

as part of his style is he gives you a kind of realism in his comic art.

Kao deo svog stila, daje vam neku vrstu realizma u svojoj umetnosti stripa,

osim što svetlo ne može biti ovakvo u stvarnom svetu.

Except that light doesn't work this way in the real world.

When you stack people in rows,

Kada poređate ljude u redove,

the ones in the background look smaller than the ones in the foreground --

oni u pozadini deluju manje od onih u prvom planu,

but not in the world of glamour.

ali ne i u svetu glamura.

What glamour is all about -- I took this from a blurb

U čemu se sastoji glamur - ovo sam preuzela iz sažetog prikaza

in the table of contents of New York magazine,

u sadržaju časopisa Njujork,

which was telling us that glamour is back --

koji nam je saopštavao da se glamur vratio -

glamour is all about transcending the everyday.

glamur se svodi na prevazilaženje svakodnevnog.

And I think that that's starting to get at what the core

Mislim da to počinje da dopire do suštine

that combines all sorts of glamour is.

koja spaja sve vrste definicija glamura.

This is Filippino Lippi's 1543 portrait of Saint Apollonia.

Ovo je potret svete Apolonije

koji je naslikao Filipino Lipi 1543. godine.

And I don't know who she is either,

Ne znam ni ko je ona,

but this is the [16th] century equivalent of a supermodel.

ali ovo je za 16. vek ekvivalentno supermodelu.

It's a very glamorous portrait.

To je vrlo glamurozni portret.

Why is it glamorous?

Zašto je glamurozan?

Glamurozan je, pre svega, zato što je ona prelepa,

It's glamorous, first, because she is beautiful --

but that does not make you glamorous,

ali to vas ne čini glamuroznim, to vas samo čini lepim.

that only makes you beautiful.

She is graceful, she is mysterious and she is transcendent,

Ona je graciozna, misteriozna i uzvišena,

and those are the central qualities of glamour.

a to su glavna svojstva glamura.

You don't see her eyes; they're looking downward.

Ne vidite joj oči; gledaju na dole.

She's not looking away from you exactly,

Pogled joj baš i ne skreće od vas,

but you have to mentally imagine her world.

ali morate u glavi da zamislite njen svet.

Podstiče vas na razmišljanje o tom višem svetu kome ona pripada,

She's encouraging you to contemplate this higher world

to which she belongs, where she can be completely tranquil

gde može biti sasvim spokojna

while holding the iron instruments of her death by torture.

dok drži gvozdeni instrument kojim su je mučili do smrti.

Mel Gibson's "Passion Of The Christ" -- not glamorous.

„Stradanje Hristovo“ Mela Gibsona - to nije glamurozno.

That's glamour:

Ovo jeste glamur - Mikelanđelova „Pjeta“

that's Michelangelo's "Pieta," where Mary is the same age as Jesus

na kojoj je Marija istih godina kao Isus

and they're both awfully happy and pleasant.

i oboje su izvanredno srećni i zadovoljni.

Glamour invites us to live in a different world.

Glamur nas poziva da živimo u drugačijem svetu.

It has to simultaneously be mysterious, a little bit distant --

Istovremeno mora biti misteriozan, pomalo udaljen -

that's why, often in these glamour shots,

zato često na ovim glamuroznim slikama osoba ne gleda u publiku,

the person is not looking at the audience,

it's why sunglasses are glamorous --

zato su naočare za sunce glamurozne -

but also not so far above us that we can't identify with the person.

ali i ne tako udaljene od nas da se ne možemo poistovetiti sa osobom.

In some sense, there has to be something like us.

Na neki način, tu mora da postoji nešto slično nama.

Stoga, kako ja kažem, u religioznoj umetnosti,

So as I say, in religious art, you know, God is not glamorous.

Bog nije glamurozan.

God cannot be glamorous because God is omnipotent,

Bog ne može biti glamurozan jer je Bog svemoćan, sveznajuć -

omniscient -- too far above us.

previše iznad nas.

And yet you will see in religious art, saints or the Virgin Mary

Ipak, u religijskoj umetnosti videćete da će sveci ili Devica Marija

will often be portrayed -- not always -- in glamorous forms.

često biti prikazani - ne uvek - u glamuroznom obličju.

As I said earlier, glamour does not have to be about people,

Kao što sam rekla ranije, glamur se ne mora odnositi na ljude,

but it has to have this transcendent quality.

ali mora da ima to transcendentno svojstvo.

What is it about Superman?

Šta je to u vezi sa Supermenom?

Pored stila Aleksa Rosa, koji je veoma glamurozan,

Aside from Alex Ross's style, which is very glamorous,

one thing about Superman is he makes you believe that a man can fly.

jedna stvar vezana za Supermena je da čini da verujete da čovek može da leti.

Glamour is all about transcending this world

Glamur podrazumeva prevazilaženje ovog sveta

and getting to an idealized, perfect place.

i dolaženje do idealizovanog, savršenog mesta.

And this is one reason that modes of transportation

To je jedan od razloga zbog kojeg oblici prevoza

tend to be extremely glamorous.

mogu biti izuzetno glamurozni.

The less experience we have with them,

Što manje iskustva imamo sa njima, utoliko su glamurozniji.

the more glamorous they are.

So you can do a glamorized picture of a car,

Tako možete napraviti glamuroznu sliku automobila,

but you can't do a glamorized picture of traffic.

ali ne možete glamuroznu sliku saobraćaja.

You can do a glamorized picture of an airplane, but not the inside.

Možete napraviti glamuroznu sliku aviona, ali ne unutrašnjosti.

The notion is that it's going to transport you,

Ideja je u tome da će vas prevoziti,

and the story is not about, you know, the guy in front of you in the airplane,

a priča nije o nekom tipu ispred vas u avionu,

who has this nasty little kid, or the big cough.

koji ima nepristojnog klinca ili jak kašalj.

Priča je o tome gde stižete

The story is about where you're arriving,

or thinking about where you're arriving.

ili o razmišljanju o tome gde stižete.

And this sense of being transported

Prevoženje u ovom smislu

is one reason that we have glamour styling.

je jedan od razloga zbog kojih imamo glamurozni stil.

This sort of streamlining styling is not just glamorous

Ova vrsta aerodinamičnog stila nije glamurozna

because we associate it with movies of that period, but because,

samo zato jer ga povezujemo sa filmovima iz tog perioda,

već zato što nas, svojom aerodinamičnošću, odvozi iz svakodnevnice.

in it's streamlining, it transports us from the everyday.

The same thing -- arches are very glamorous.

Ista stvar - svodovi su veoma glamurozni.

Arches with stained glass -- even more glamorous.

Svodovi sa obojenim staklom - još glamurozniji.

Staircases that curve away from you are glamorous.

Stepenice koje se krivudavo udaljavaju od vas su glamurozne.

I happen to find that particular staircase picture very glamorous

Nekako smatram ovu sliku stepenica naročito glamuroznom jer,

because, to me, it captures the whole promise

prema mom mišljenju, ona oslikava čitavo to obećanje

of the academic contemplative life --

akademskog života u razmišljanju,

but maybe that's because I went to Princeton.

ali možda je to zato što sam išla na Prinston.

Anyway, skylines are super glamorous,

Uglavnom, gradski pejzaži su izuzetno glamurozni,

city streets -- not so glamorous.

a gradske ulice baš i nisu glamurozne.

You know, when you get, actually to this town it has reality.

Znate, kad zaista stignete u ovaj grad, to postaje stvarnost.

The horizon, the open road, is very, very glamorous.

Horizont i otvoreni put su vrlo, vrlo glamurozni.

There are few things more glamorous than the horizon --

Malo je glamuroznijih stvari od horizonta,

except, possibly, multiple horizons.

osim, možda, više horizonata.

Of course, here you don't feel the cold, or the heat --

Naravno, ovde ne osećate hladnoću niti vrućinu;

you just see the possibilities.

vidite samo mogućnosti.

In order to pull glamour off, you need this Renaissance quality

Da bi vam glamur pošao za rukom,

potrebno vam je renesansno svojstvo sprecature,

of sprezzatura, which is a term coined by Castiglione

a to je termin kojeg je skovao Kastiljone

in his book, "The Book Of The Courtier."

u svojoj knjizi „Knjiga o dvoraninu“.

There's the not-glamorous version of what it looks like today,

Evo neglamurozne verzije onoga kako ona izgleda danas,

after a few centuries.

nekoliko vekova kasnije.

And sprezzatura is the art that conceals art.

Sprecatura je umetnost koja skriva umetnost.

Čini da stvari izgledaju kao da u njih nije uložen trud.

It makes things look effortless.

You don't think about how Nicole Kidman is maneuvering that dress --

Ne razmišljate o tome kako se Nikol Kidman snalazi u toj haljini;

she just looks completely natural.

ona izgleda sasvim prirodno.

And I remember reading, after the Lara Croft movies,

Sećam se da sam čitala, nakon filmova o Lari Kroft,

how Angelina Jolie would go home completely black and blue.

kako bi Anđelina Džoli došla kući potpuno plava od modrica.

Of course, they covered that with make-up,

Naravno, to su pokrivali šminkom,

because Lara Croft did all those same stunts --

jer je Lara Kroft izvodila iste te akrobacije,

but she doesn't get black and blue, because she has sprezzatura.

ali ona ne dobija modrice, jer ima sprecaturu.

"To conceal all art and make whatever is done or said appear to be without effort":

„Sakriti umetnost i učiniti da sve što je urađeno ili rečeno

izgleda kao da je bez napora.“

And this is one of the critical aspects of glamour.

Ovo je jedan od ključnih aspekata glamura.

Glamur je vezan za uređivanje.

Glamour is about editing.

Kako da stvorite taj utisak transcedentnosti,

How do you create the sense of transcendence,

the sense of evoking a perfect world?

utisak evociranja savršenog sveta?

The sense of, you know, life could be better, I could join this --

Utisak toga da život može biti bolji, mogu se prikloniti ovome -

mogu biti savršena osoba, mogu se priključiti tom savršenom svetu.

I could be a perfect person, I could join this perfect world.

We don't tell you all the grubby details.

Nećemo vam reći sve neugledne detalje.

Ovo mi je ljubazno pozajmio Džef Bezos, od prošle godine.

Now, this was kindly lent to me by Jeff Bezos, from last year.

This is underneath Jeff's desk.

Ovo se nalazi ispod Džefovog stola.

This is what the real world of computers,

Ovako izgleda stvarni svet kompjutera,

lamps, electrical appliances of all kinds, looks like.

lampi, raznih elektronskih uređaja.

But if you look in a catalog --

Međutim, ako pogledate katalog -

particularly a catalog of modern, beautiful objects for your home --

naročito katalog modernih, prelepih predmeta za vaš dom,

it looks like this.

to izgleda ovako.

There are no cords.

Nema kablova.

Look next time you get these catalogs in your mail --

Pogledajte sledeći put kada dobijete ove kataloge poštom -

you can usually figure out where they hid the cord.

obično možete da otkrijete gde su sakrili kabl.

Međutim, uvek postoji ta iluzija da, ako kupite ovu lampu,

But there's always this illusion that if you buy this lamp,

you will live in a world without cords. (Laughter)

živećete u svetu bez kablova. (Smeh)

And the same thing is true of, if you buy this laptop

Isto važi i u slučaju ako kupite ovaj laptop ili ovaj kompjuter,

or you buy this computer -- and even in these wireless eras,

ali čak i u ovo bežično doba, ne možete živeti u svetu bez kablova.

you don't get to live in the world without cords.

You have to have mystery and you have to have grace.

Morate imati misterioznost i gracioznost.

And there she is -- Grace.

Evo i nje - Grejs.

Ovo je najglamuroznija slika ikada, prema mom mišljenju.

This is the most glamorous picture, I think, ever.

Part of the thing is that, in "Rear Window,"

Deo toga je što, u filmu „Prozor u dvorište“, postavlja se pitanje

the question is, is she too glamorous to live in his world?

da li je ona previše glamurozna da bi živela u njegovom svetu?

And the answer is no, but of course it's really just a movie.

Odgovor je ne, ali naravno, to je samo film.

Here's Hedy Lamarr again.

Evo ponovo Hedi Lamar.

And, you know, this kind of head covering is extremely glamorous

Znate, ovaj način prekrivanja glave je izuzetno glamurozan jer,

because, like sunglasses, it conceals and reveals at the same time.

kao i naočare za sunce, istovremeno sakriva i otkriva.

Translucence is glamorous --

Prozračnost je glamurozna -

that's why all these people wear pearls.

zato svi ti ljudi nose perle.

It's why barware is glamorous. Glamour is translucent --

Zato su proizvodi od stakla glamurozni.

Glamur je prozračan - ne providan, ne taman.

not transparent, not opaque.

It invites us into the world

On nas poziva u svet,

but it doesn't give us a completely clear picture.

ali nam ne daje potpuno jasnu sliku.

And I think if Grace Kelly is the most glamorous person,

Mislim da, ako je Grejs Keli najglamuroznija osoba,

možda je spiralno stepenište sa staklenim kockama

maybe a spiral staircase with glass block may be the most glamorous interior shot,

najglamuroznija slika enterijera,

because a spiral staircase is incredibly glamorous.

jer je spiralno stepenište izuzetno glamurozno.

It has that sense of going up and away,

Daje utisak da ide gore i udaljava se,

and yet you never think about how you would really trip

a ipak nikada ne pomišljate o tome kako biste zaista pali,

if you were -- particularly going down.

naročito pri silaženju.

Naravno, staklene kocke daju taj utisak prozračnosti.

And of course glass block has that sense of translucence.

So, this session's supposed to be about pure pleasure

Dakle, ova sesija treba da bude o čistom zadovoljstvu,

ali glamur se delom odnosi na značenje.

but glamour's really partly about meaning.

Svi pojedinci i sve kulture imaju ideale

All individuals and all cultures have ideals

that cannot possibly be realized in reality.

koje je nemoguće ostvariti u realnosti.

They have contradictions,

Imaju protivrečnosti,

they uphold principles that are incommensurable with each other --

podržavaju principe koji se međusobno ne podudaraju -

šta god da je u pitanju, a ipak, ti ideali daju značenje i svrhu

whatever it is -- and yet these ideals give meaning and purpose

to our lives as cultures and as individuals.

našim životima kao kulturama i pojedincima.

And the way we deal with that is we displace them --

Sa tim izlazimo na kraj tako što ih premeštamo,

smeštamo ih u zlatni svet, izmišljeni svet,

we put them into a golden world, an imagined world,

an age of heroes, the world to come.

doba heroja, svet koji će tek uslediti.

A u životu pojedinca, često to vezujemo za neke predmete.

And in the life of an individual, we often associate that with some object.

The white picket fence, the perfect house.

Bela drvena ograda, savršena kuća, savršena kuhinja -

The perfect kitchen -- no bills on the counter in the perfect kitchen.

nema računa na radnoj površini u savršenoj kuhinji.

You know, you buy that Viking range, this is what your kitchen will look like.

Ako kupite taj aparat „Vikinškog ranga“, ovako će vam izgledati kuhinja.

The perfect love life -- symbolized by the perfect necklace,

Savršen ljubavni život, simbolizovan savršenom ogrlicom,

the perfect diamond ring.

savršenim dijamantskim prstenom.

The perfect getaway in your perfect car.

Savršeno bekstvo u vašem savršenom automobilu.

This is an interior design firm that is literally called Utopia.

Ovo je firma za unutrašnji dizajn koja se doslovno zove Utopija.

The perfect office --

Savršena kancelarija -

ponovo, nema žica, bar kako mi se čini.

again, no cords, as far as I can tell.

And certainly, no, it doesn't look a thing like my office.

Naravno, nimalo ne izgleda kao moja kancelarija.

Mislim, nema papira na stolu.

I mean, there's no paper on the desk.

Želimo ovaj zlatni svet.

We want this golden world.

Neki ljudi se dovoljno obogate, i ako imaju svoje ideale

And some people get rich enough,

and if they have their ideals -- in a sort of domestic sense,

u nekakvom domaćem smislu,

imaju mogućnost da steknu svoj savršen svet.

they get to acquire their perfect world.

Din Kunc je sagradio ovaj fantastični kućni bioskop,

Dean Koontz built this fabulous home theater, which is --

koji je, ne bih rekla slučajno, u stilu art deko.

I don't think accidentally -- in Art Deco style.

Ovo simbolizuje osećaj da ste bezbedni i da ste kod kuće.

That symbolizes this sense of being safe and at home.

This is not always good, because what is your perfect world?

To nije uvek dobro, jer koji je vaš savršeni svet?

What is your ideal, and also, what has been edited out?

Šta je vaš ideal i šta je izbačeno?

Is it something important?

Da li je to nešto važno?

"The Matrix" is a movie that is all about glamour.

„Matriks“ je film koji je u potpunosti vezan za glamur.

I could do a whole talk on "The Matrix" and glamour.

Mogla bih da održim ceo govor vezan za „Matriks“ i glamur.

It was criticized for glamorizing violence,

Kritikovali su ga zbog glamurizovanja nasilja,

because, look -- sunglasses and those long coats, and, of course,

jer, vidite, naočare za sunce i ti dugački kaputi i, naravno,

mogli su da šetaju po zidovima i rade najrazličitije stvari

they could walk up walls and do all these kinds of things

that are impossible in the real world.

koje su nemoguće u stvarnom svetu.

This is another Margaret Bourke-White photo.

Evo još jedne fotografije Margaret Burk-Vajt.

This is from Soviet Union. Attractive.

Ovo je iz Sovjetskog Saveza. Privlačno.

I mean, look how happy the people are, and good-looking too.

Mislim, vidite kako su ovi ljudi srećni, a i lepo izgledaju.

You know, we're marching toward Utopia.

Znate, koračamo ka Utopiji.

I'm not a fan of PETA, but I think this is a great ad.

Nisam obožavatelj organizacije PETA, ali mislim da je ovo sjajna reklama,

Because what they're doing is they're saying,

jer oni ovime poručuju:

your coat's not so glamorous, what's been edited out is something important.

vaša bunda nije tako glamurozna, iz toga je izbačeno nešto vrlo važno.

But actually, what's even more important

Zapravo, ono što je još važnije od podsećanja na to što je izbačeno

than remembering what's been edited out is thinking, are the ideals good?

jeste razmišljanje o tome jesu li ideali dobri,

Because glamour can be very totalitarian and deceptive.

jer glamur može biti vrlo totalitaran i obmanjujuć.

And it's not just a matter of glamorizing cleaning your floor.

Ne radi se samo o glamurizovanju čišćenja vašeg poda.

This is from "Triumph Of The Will" --

Ovo je iz „Trijumfa volje“ -

brilliant editing to cut together things.

briljantno uređeno tako da se stvari uklope.

There's a glamour shot.

Evo glamurozne fotografije.

U nacionalnom socijalizmu se sve vrti oko glamura.

National Socialism is all about glamour.

Bila je to vrlo estetska ideologia.

It was a very aesthetic ideology.

It was all about cleaning up Germany, and the West, and the world,

Odnosila se na čišćenje Nemačke, zapada i sveta

and ridding it of anything unglamorous.

i njihovo oslobađanje od svega neglamuroznog.

So glamour can be dangerous.

Dakle, glamur može biti opasan.

I think glamour has a genuine appeal, has a genuine value.

Mislim da glamur ima istinsku draž, ima istinsku vrednost.

I'm not against glamour.

Nisam protiv glamura.

Ipak, postoji neka znatiželja u stvarima koje bivaju odbačene u životnom tkanju.

But there's a kind of wonder in the stuff that gets edited away in the cords of life.

And there is both a way to avoid the dangers of glamour

Ujedno postoji način da se izbegnu opasnosti glamura

and a way to broaden your appreciation of it.

i način da se proširi vaše uvažavanje njega,

And that's to take Isaac Mizrahi's advice

a to je da prihvatite savet Ajzaka Mizrahija

and confront the manipulation of it all,

i suočite se sa manipulacijom u svemu tome

and sort of admit that manipulation is something that we enjoy,

i na neki način priznate da je manipulacija nešto u čemu uživamo,

but also enjoy how it happens.

ali takođe uživamo i u načinu na koji se dešava.

And here's Hedy Lamarr.

Evo i Hedi Lamar.

Vrlo je glamurozna, ali, znate,

She's very glamorous but, you know, she invented spread-spectrum technology.

ona je izumela tehnologiju raširenog spektra.

So she's even more glamorous if you know that she really wasn't stupid,

Čak je i glamuroznija ako znate da zaista nije bila glupa,

even though she thought she could look stupid.

iako je mislila da može izgledati glupo.

David Hockney talks about how the appreciation of this

Dejvid Hokni govori o tome kako uvažavanje

ove glamurozne slike pojačava ako pomislite na činjenicu

very glamorous painting is heightened if you think about

the fact that it takes two weeks to paint this splash,

da je potrebno dve nedelje da se naslika ovo prskanje vode,

za koje je trebalo samo delić sekunde da bi se dogodilo.

which only took a fraction of a second to happen.

There is a book out in the bookstore --

Postoji knjiga u knjižarama koja se zove „Čelična simfornija“,

it's called "Symphony In Steel,"

a bavi se stvarima koje su skrivene ispod površine Diznijevog centra,

and it's about the stuff that's hidden under the skin of the Disney Center.

a to sa sobom nosi fascinaciju.

And that has a fascination.

Nije nužno glamurozno, ali razotkrivanje glamura ima draž.

It's not necessarily glamorous, but unveiling the glamour has an appeal.

There's a wonderful book called "Crowns"

Postoji sjajna knjiga pod nazivom „Krune“.

Tu su sve ove glamurozne slike crnkinja sa njihovim šeširima za crkvu.

that's all these glamour pictures of black women in their church hats.

And there's a quote from one of these women, and she talks about,

Tu stoji citat jedne od ovih žena, a ona govori:

"As a little girl, I'd admire women at church with beautiful hats.

„Kao devojčica, divila sam se ženama u crkvi sa prelepim šeširima.

They looked like beautiful dolls, like they'd just stepped out of a magazine.

Izgledale su kao prelepe lutke, kao da su upravo izašle iz časopisa.

But I also knew how hard they worked all week.

Međutim, isto tako sam znala koliko su naporno radile cele nedelje.

Sometimes under those hats there's a lot of joy and a lot of sorrow."

Ponekad se ispod tih šešira nalazi puno radosti i puno tuge.“

And, actually, you get more appreciation for glamour

Zapravo, više cenite glamur

when you realize what went into creating it.

kada shvatite šta je sve uloženo u njegovo stvaranje.

Thank you.

Hvala vam.

(Aplauz)