Virginia Postrel: The power of glamour

31,091 views ・ 2008-10-17

TED


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翻译人员: Bo Wang 校对人员: Zhu Jie
00:18
You might be wondering why I'm wearing sunglasses,
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你可能会疑惑为什么我戴着太阳镜,
00:20
and one answer to that is, because I'm here to talk about glamour.
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其中的一个答案就是因为我今天的主题是魅力。
00:25
So, we all think we know what glamour is. Here it is.
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所以,我们都认为自知什么叫做魅力。大家请看。
00:28
It's glamorous movie stars, like Marlene Dietrich.
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是非常有魅力的影星,比如玛琳·黛德丽。
00:31
And it comes in a male form, too --
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也有男性。
00:33
very glamorous.
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非常迷人。
00:35
Not only can he shoot, drive, drink -- you know, he drinks wine,
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不仅仅因为他可以射击,开车--你知道,他是喝酒的,
00:39
there actually is a little wine in there --
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事实上他的旁边总是伴随着酒香--
00:41
and of course, always wears a tuxedo.
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当然,他总是一副绅士模样。
00:44
But I think that glamour actually has a much broader meaning --
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不过我认为魅力实际上有更为广泛的含义
00:48
one that is true for the movie stars and the fictional characters,
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其中一部分(当然)那些电影明星和小说人物所展现出来的
00:52
but also comes in other forms.
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但也有其他的表达方式。
00:54
A magazine?
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杂志?
00:56
Well, it's certainly not this one.
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不过,当然不是这本。
00:58
This is the least glamorous magazine on the newsstand -- it's all about sex tips.
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这是新标准下魅力值最低的杂志--里面充斥着性爱技巧。
01:01
Sex tips are not glamorous.
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性爱技巧并不具备魅力。
01:03
And Drew Barrymore, for all her wonderful charm,
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Drew Barrymore,她所有的迷人之处,
01:06
is not glamorous either.
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也谈不上具有魅力。
01:08
But there is a glamour of industry.
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但是却存在着一个魅力产业。
01:10
This is Margaret Bourke-White's --
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这个是 Margaret Bourke-White的
01:12
one of her pictures she did.
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其中的一幅作品。
01:14
Fantastic, glamorous pictures
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美妙的,迷人的图片
01:17
of steel mills and paper mills and all kinds of glamorous industrial places.
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展现着钢铁厂,造纸厂和各种充满魅力的工业场所。
01:21
And there's the mythic glamour
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这个是车库经理人的
01:23
of the garage entrepreneur.
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神话般的魅力
01:25
This is the Hewlett-Packard garage.
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这是惠普当初起家的车库。
01:27
We know everyone who starts a business in a garage
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我们知道任何一个从车库起家的创业者
01:30
ends up founding Hewlett-Packard.
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最终都成了惠普的融资人。
01:33
There's the glamour of physics.
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这是物理学的魅力。
01:35
What could be more glamorous than understanding the entire universe,
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还有什么能比洞察整个宇宙,伟大的统一更加
01:37
grand unification? And, by the way, it helps if you're Brian Greene --
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具有魅力呢--而且,顺便提一下,如果你是Brian Greene这很有用。
01:41
he has other kinds of glamour.
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他还有很多其他类型的魅力。
01:43
And there is, of course, this glamour.
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当然,这种,魅力。
01:45
This is very, very glamorous: the glamour of outer space --
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这是,非常非常迷人的--外太空的魅力。
01:48
and not the alien-style glamour,
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而且并不是外星人式的魅力
01:51
but the nice, clean, early '60s version.
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而是美好,干净,60年代初期的样子。
01:54
So what do we mean by glamour?
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那么到底什么叫做魅力?
01:56
Well, one thing you can do if you want to know what glamour means
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当然,如果想了解魅力的含义,你可以做的一件事情就是
02:00
is you can look in the dictionary.
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查看字典
02:02
And it actually helps a lot more if you look in a very old dictionary,
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而且事实上如果你去查阅很古老的字典会很有用,
02:05
in this case the 1913 dictionary.
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在这种情况下,这是1913版的字典。
02:07
Because for centuries, glamour had a very particular meaning,
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因为时代变迁,魅力会相应的有着其特定的含义,
02:12
and the word was actually used differently from the way we think of it.
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而且这个词汇实际上和我们设想的方式是截然不同的。
02:17
You had "a" glamour.
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你很有魅力。
02:19
It wasn't glamour as a quality -- you "cast a glamour."
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这并不是说它是一种品质--你可以将其抛开。
02:21
Glamour was a literal magic spell.
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魅力是一种字面意义上的魔力咒符。
02:24
Not a metaphorical one, the way we use it today,
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而不是今天我们所使用的,隐喻的方式。
02:26
but a literal magic spell associated with witches and gypsies
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而是一种和女巫、吉普赛人紧密联系在一起的魔力咒符
02:30
and to some extent, Celtic magic.
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而且在某种程度上,可以是凯尔特魔法。
02:33
And over the years, around the turn of the 20th century,
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而且这么多年来,在20世纪的转交之际,
02:36
it started to take on this other kind of deception --
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魅力开始呈现出一点其他类型的戏法--
02:42
this definition for any artificial interest in, or association with,
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这种解释是任何有关人的对某种实体的兴趣或者联系,
02:47
an object through which it appears delusively magnified or glorified.
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通过它可以呈现出被放大或者渲染过的迷惑。
02:52
But still, glamour is an illusion.
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但是,魅力仍是是一种幻觉。
02:54
Glamour is a magic spell.
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魅力是一种魔力咒符。
02:57
And there's something dangerous about glamour
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而且关于魅力有一些危险的地方。
02:59
throughout most of history. When the witches cast a magic spell
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人类历史的大部分情况下,当女巫对你抛出一个不符合你自身利益
03:03
on you, it was not in your self-interest --
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的魔力咒符,
03:05
it was to get you to act against your interest.
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它就会使你做出违背自己意愿的事情。
03:07
Well of course, in the 20th century,
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当然,在20世纪,
03:09
glamour came to have this different meaning associated with Hollywood.
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魅力开始和好莱坞联系在一起从而拥有了各种不同的含义。
03:13
And this is Hedy Lamarr.
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这是Hedy Lamarr。
03:15
Hedy Lamarr said, "Anyone can look glamorous,
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Hedy Lamarr说,“只要你坐在那里装出一副傻样,
03:17
all you have to do is sit there and look stupid." (Laughter)
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任何人都可以看起来充满魅力。”
03:20
But in fact, with all due respect to Hedy --
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但是事实上,并无意冒犯Hedy Lamarr--
03:25
about whom we'll hear more later -- there's a lot more to it.
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我们接下来还会讲到她--其实还有更多的含义。
03:29
There was a tremendous amount of technical achievement
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创造这种好莱坞式魅力,暗中联系着
03:32
associated with creating this Hollywood glamour.
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数量庞大的科技成就。
03:34
There were scores of retouchers and lighting experts and make-up experts.
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有大量的修图师,灯光专家和化妆专家。
03:38
You can go to the museum of Hollywood history in Hollywood
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你可以去好莱坞的博物馆去领会好莱坞的历史
03:41
and see Max Factor's special rooms that he painted different colors
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然后看看属于Max Factor的特定工作室,这是在这里
03:44
depending on the complexion of the star he was going to make up.
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根据他要组织的星星的组合他绘出了不同的颜色。
03:48
So you've got this highly stylized portrait of something
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所以你可以看到高度风格化的肖像方法
03:51
that was not entirely of this earth -- it was a portrait of a star.
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它并不是完全属于这个星球--它是一颗星星的肖像。
03:54
And actually, we see glamorized photos of stars all the time --
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而且事实上,我们经常看到美化过的各种星星的图片,
03:58
they call them false color.
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也被称作假色。
04:00
Glamour is a form of falsification,
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魅力是一种伪造的形式,
04:04
but falsification to achieve a particular purpose.
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但是通过其要达到某种目的。
04:07
It may be to illuminate the star; it may be to sell a film.
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或许是去装饰一个星星,或许是营销一部影片。
04:11
And it involves a great deal of technique.
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这都牵涉到很多的科技因素。
04:13
It's not -- glamour is not something --
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它并不是--魅力并不是一种--
04:15
you don't wake up in the morning glamorous. I don't care who you are.
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你并不会早上一起来就魅力照人,这和你是谁无关。
04:18
Even Nicole Kidman doesn't wake up in the morning glamorous.
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即使Nicole Kidman也不会一早起来就魅力十足。
04:21
There is a process of "idealization, glorification and dramatization,"
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这需要一个理想化,赞颂化,戏剧化的过程,
04:25
and it's not just the case for people.
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这并不是只适用于人。
04:27
Glamour doesn't have to be people.
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魅力并不一定要和人相关。
04:29
Architectural photography --
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建筑摄影--
04:31
Julius Schulman, who has talked about transfiguration,
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关于转换,Julius Schulman
04:34
took this fabulous, famous picture of the Kauffman House.
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拍摄了这张著名的,梦幻般的Kauffman House的照片。
04:37
Architectural photography is extremely glamorous.
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建筑摄影是十分具有魅力的。
04:40
It puts you into this special, special world.
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它是你置身于这种非常特别的世界中。
04:44
This is Alex Ross's comic book art,
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这个是Alex Ross的动漫艺术,
04:47
which appears to be extremely realistic,
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看起来非常真实,
04:49
as part of his style is he gives you a kind of realism in his comic art.
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实际上营造这种真实感这也是他的艺术风格的一部分。
04:54
Except that light doesn't work this way in the real world.
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只是在现实世界中,灯光效果却不是如此。
04:57
When you stack people in rows,
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人群按排列座的时候,
04:59
the ones in the background look smaller than the ones in the foreground --
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后排的人要比前排的人看上去小一些。
05:02
but not in the world of glamour.
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但是在魅力的概念中不是这样。
05:05
What glamour is all about -- I took this from a blurb
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还有什么和魅力相关的呢--这是我在纽约杂志
05:08
in the table of contents of New York magazine,
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的目录中的一个宣传广告中发现的,
05:11
which was telling us that glamour is back --
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这意味着魅力的回归--
05:13
glamour is all about transcending the everyday.
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魅力的宗旨就是不断进取。
05:16
And I think that that's starting to get at what the core
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而且我认为这已经开始和
05:19
that combines all sorts of glamour is.
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魅力的核心接近了,不管是什么形式的。
05:22
This is Filippino Lippi's 1543 portrait of Saint Apollonia.
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这是Filippino Lippi在1543年所作的圣女Apollonia的肖像。
05:27
And I don't know who she is either,
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我也不知道她是谁,
05:29
but this is the [16th] century equivalent of a supermodel.
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但是在15世纪,这相当于我们今日的超级名模。
05:32
It's a very glamorous portrait.
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这是一幅非常迷人的肖像画。
05:34
Why is it glamorous?
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为什么它迷人呢?
05:36
It's glamorous, first, because she is beautiful --
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它之所以迷人的第一个原因是美丽,
05:38
but that does not make you glamorous,
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但这还不够,
05:40
that only makes you beautiful.
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美丽和魅力是两码事。
05:42
She is graceful, she is mysterious and she is transcendent,
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她高雅,神秘的形象中透露着卓尔不凡,
05:47
and those are the central qualities of glamour.
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这些是魅力的核心元素。
05:49
You don't see her eyes; they're looking downward.
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你看不见她的双眼,她在向下看。
05:53
She's not looking away from you exactly,
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她也没有把目光从你的身上移开,
05:55
but you have to mentally imagine her world.
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但是你却禁不住的思考她的世界。
05:59
She's encouraging you to contemplate this higher world
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她在鼓励你去探索她存在于的这个更高一层
06:03
to which she belongs, where she can be completely tranquil
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的世界,远离喧嚣,
06:06
while holding the iron instruments of her death by torture.
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手握着把她折磨致死的铁器。
06:10
Mel Gibson's "Passion Of The Christ" -- not glamorous.
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Mel Gibson的“耶稣受难记”--不属于这类范畴。
06:13
That's glamour:
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这就是魅力。
06:15
that's Michelangelo's "Pieta," where Mary is the same age as Jesus
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这是米开朗琪罗的圣母怜子雕像,这里的圣母玛丽与耶稣同龄
06:18
and they're both awfully happy and pleasant.
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而且都十分开心,无忧无虑。
06:21
Glamour invites us to live in a different world.
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魅力使得我们能够进入另一个世界。
06:24
It has to simultaneously be mysterious, a little bit distant --
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这同时要求其不得不保持一定的神秘性,一点点的距离。
06:28
that's why, often in these glamour shots,
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所以你经常可以在这些魅力的摄影中发现,
06:30
the person is not looking at the audience,
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画面中的人并非看着观众。
06:32
it's why sunglasses are glamorous --
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这也就是太阳镜之所以迷人的原因了,
06:35
but also not so far above us that we can't identify with the person.
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但是也不能高高在上不可靠近。
06:39
In some sense, there has to be something like us.
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在某种程度上,必须存在着和我们相似的因素。
06:43
So as I say, in religious art, you know, God is not glamorous.
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因此正如我说过,宗教艺术中,你知道,上帝是不富有魅力的。
06:46
God cannot be glamorous because God is omnipotent,
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上帝不能带有这种特质因为他无所不能,
06:49
omniscient -- too far above us.
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无所不知--这一切都使得我们只能敬畏之。
06:51
And yet you will see in religious art, saints or the Virgin Mary
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然而你可以在宗教艺术中经常发现描绘圣人,或者圣母玛利亚
06:54
will often be portrayed -- not always -- in glamorous forms.
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的作品--竭力展现出其迷人的一面--虽然并不经常。
06:57
As I said earlier, glamour does not have to be about people,
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就像我之前说的,魅力并非和人沾上关系
07:01
but it has to have this transcendent quality.
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但是卓越的品质这一点是不可或缺的。
07:04
What is it about Superman?
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试想一下超人
07:06
Aside from Alex Ross's style, which is very glamorous,
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除了Alex Ross非常迷人的造型,
07:08
one thing about Superman is he makes you believe that a man can fly.
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超人能深入人心的一个原因就是他使得你相信人是可以飞的。
07:12
Glamour is all about transcending this world
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魅力的宗旨就是提升这个世界的可能性
07:15
and getting to an idealized, perfect place.
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达到一种理想化,完美的境界。
07:19
And this is one reason that modes of transportation
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这也就是为什么当代的交通运输方式
07:23
tend to be extremely glamorous.
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如此的吸引人。
07:25
The less experience we have with them,
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而且对于我们来说,它们越是陌生,
07:27
the more glamorous they are.
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其迷人的色彩就越浓厚。
07:29
So you can do a glamorized picture of a car,
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因此你可以制作一张魅力跑车的图片,
07:32
but you can't do a glamorized picture of traffic.
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但是你不能用同样的方式把“交通”描绘出来。
07:34
You can do a glamorized picture of an airplane, but not the inside.
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你可以制作一张彰显飞机的魅力的图片,但对其内部机制却不能。
07:38
The notion is that it's going to transport you,
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这是因为那种“被运载”的思想,
07:40
and the story is not about, you know, the guy in front of you in the airplane,
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而且事实并不是像,你知道,飞机前这个家伙,
07:44
who has this nasty little kid, or the big cough.
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和他的讨厌的小孩,或者一阵咳嗽。
07:48
The story is about where you're arriving,
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事情是你到达的目的地,
07:50
or thinking about where you're arriving.
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或者想到你在哪里到达。
07:52
And this sense of being transported
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而且这种“被运载”的感觉
07:54
is one reason that we have glamour styling.
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才是它吸引我们的一个原因。
07:58
This sort of streamlining styling is not just glamorous
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我们所说的魅力并不在于这种流程化的风格
08:02
because we associate it with movies of that period, but because,
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因为我们将其同相应时期的影片结合起来了,而是因为,
08:06
in it's streamlining, it transports us from the everyday.
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在这种流线型的体验中,我们日复一日的被它承载者。
08:09
The same thing -- arches are very glamorous.
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同样的--拱形是非常富有魅力的。
08:12
Arches with stained glass -- even more glamorous.
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再加上彩色玻璃--就更加迷人了。
08:15
Staircases that curve away from you are glamorous.
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那远远看去弯曲的楼梯十分吸引人。
08:18
I happen to find that particular staircase picture very glamorous
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我恰巧发现某种特定的楼梯图片非常吸引我
08:21
because, to me, it captures the whole promise
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因为对我来说,它牢牢的呈现了那种
08:23
of the academic contemplative life --
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思想者学术生活的风格,
08:26
but maybe that's because I went to Princeton.
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或者因为我在普林斯顿大学上过学吧。
08:28
Anyway, skylines are super glamorous,
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总之,天际线迷人的难以置信,
08:31
city streets -- not so glamorous.
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城市街道--却不这样。
08:33
You know, when you get, actually to this town it has reality.
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你知道,当你真正的,走进一个真实的小城。
08:36
The horizon, the open road, is very, very glamorous.
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地平线,开阔的公路,如此如此的迷人。
08:40
There are few things more glamorous than the horizon --
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还有几样比地平线更富有魅力的事物
08:43
except, possibly, multiple horizons.
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除了,那种,多重地平线的可能,而且
08:47
Of course, here you don't feel the cold, or the heat --
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当然,这里你不会感到冷,或者是热--
08:52
you just see the possibilities.
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你看到的只是可能性。
08:54
In order to pull glamour off, you need this Renaissance quality
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为了顺利的呈现出魅力,你需要这种sprezzatura的文艺复兴
08:58
of sprezzatura, which is a term coined by Castiglione
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的特性,这个词语的典故是Castiglione在一本书
09:03
in his book, "The Book Of The Courtier."
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“廷臣之书。”
09:05
There's the not-glamorous version of what it looks like today,
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在经历了几个世纪以后,这个版本以今天的眼光看来
09:08
after a few centuries.
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已经不再令人印象深刻了。
09:10
And sprezzatura is the art that conceals art.
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sprezzatura是那种浑然天成的艺术。
09:14
It makes things look effortless.
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它使得事物简约易懂。
09:16
You don't think about how Nicole Kidman is maneuvering that dress --
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你不用去向妮可·基德曼是如何穿着那件裙子的,
09:20
she just looks completely natural.
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这种着装在她身上就是如此的自然。
09:22
And I remember reading, after the Lara Croft movies,
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而且我还记得在看完Lara Croft电影之后,我阅读着
09:25
how Angelina Jolie would go home completely black and blue.
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Angelina Jolie如何偏题鳞伤的回到家中。
09:29
Of course, they covered that with make-up,
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不过当然,伤的痕迹都用彩妆遮盖住了,
09:31
because Lara Croft did all those same stunts --
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但是Lara Croft也上演了同样的特技,
09:33
but she doesn't get black and blue, because she has sprezzatura.
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但是因为sprezzatura,她安然无恙。
09:37
"To conceal all art and make whatever is done or said appear to be without effort":
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隐藏任何事前的痕迹,或者说,使之显得自然。
09:42
And this is one of the critical aspects of glamour.
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这是魅力的一个核心方面--
09:45
Glamour is about editing.
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魅力意味着雕琢。
09:47
How do you create the sense of transcendence,
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你是如何创造卓越的感觉,
09:49
the sense of evoking a perfect world?
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唤起一个完美世界的感觉?
09:52
The sense of, you know, life could be better, I could join this --
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那种,你知道,生活可以更美好的感觉,我可以成为其中的一份子--
09:56
I could be a perfect person, I could join this perfect world.
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我可以成为一个完美的人,我可以成为这个完美世界的一部分。
09:58
We don't tell you all the grubby details.
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我们并不必让你知道所有乱糟糟的细节。
10:01
Now, this was kindly lent to me by Jeff Bezos, from last year.
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这个,这是去年好心的Jeff Bezos借给我的。
10:05
This is underneath Jeff's desk.
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在Jeff的桌子下面是这个样子。
10:07
This is what the real world of computers,
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这是电脑的真实呈现,
10:10
lamps, electrical appliances of all kinds, looks like.
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看上去,各种各样的灯具,电子元件。
10:14
But if you look in a catalog --
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但是如果你在一个产品目录中查看--
10:16
particularly a catalog of modern, beautiful objects for your home --
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尤其是为你现代,美丽的家添置物件的商品目录中--
10:19
it looks like this.
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它是这个样子的。
10:21
There are no cords.
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没有任何线路。
10:23
Look next time you get these catalogs in your mail --
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但你下次查看邮箱中这些目录的时候--
10:26
you can usually figure out where they hid the cord.
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你可以经常地弄明白他们把杂乱无章的线路藏在哪了。
10:29
But there's always this illusion that if you buy this lamp,
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但是如果你买下这个灯具的话,总是会有这种幻觉,
10:32
you will live in a world without cords. (Laughter)
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那就是你生活在一个简洁整齐的世界中。
10:35
And the same thing is true of, if you buy this laptop
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下一个事实就是,如果你买下这个掌上电脑
10:38
or you buy this computer -- and even in these wireless eras,
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或者台式机--那么甚至在目前的无线世界中,
10:41
you don't get to live in the world without cords.
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你也不可能生活在没有线路的世界中。
10:43
You have to have mystery and you have to have grace.
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你必须拥有神秘感和优雅感。
10:47
And there she is -- Grace.
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这就是--格蕾丝(与“优雅”同音)。
10:49
This is the most glamorous picture, I think, ever.
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我认为,这是有史以来最优雅的一张图片,
10:51
Part of the thing is that, in "Rear Window,"
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部分是因为电影“Rear Window”的缘故
10:54
the question is, is she too glamorous to live in his world?
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问题是,她的优雅是否已经超出了当时的世界?
10:57
And the answer is no, but of course it's really just a movie.
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答案是否定的,理所当然的,这只是一部电影。
11:00
Here's Hedy Lamarr again.
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这还是Hedy Lamarr。
11:02
And, you know, this kind of head covering is extremely glamorous
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而且,你知道,这种风格的顶盖是非常迷人的
11:05
because, like sunglasses, it conceals and reveals at the same time.
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因为,就像太阳镜一样,它在遮掩的同时也欲盖弥彰。
11:09
Translucence is glamorous --
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半透明是富有魅力的--
11:11
that's why all these people wear pearls.
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这就是为什么人们穿戴珍珠的原因。
11:13
It's why barware is glamorous. Glamour is translucent --
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就是为什么酒吧酒具富有魅力--半透明才吸引人,
11:17
not transparent, not opaque.
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而不是透明,或者不透明。
11:19
It invites us into the world
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它使得我们进入了一个世界
11:21
but it doesn't give us a completely clear picture.
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却不将其完整的呈现出来。
11:25
And I think if Grace Kelly is the most glamorous person,
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而且我认为如果Grace Kelly是最富有魅力的人,
11:28
maybe a spiral staircase with glass block may be the most glamorous interior shot,
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也许玻璃镶嵌的旋转楼梯是是最富有魅力的室内快照
11:34
because a spiral staircase is incredibly glamorous.
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因为旋转楼梯拥有如此不可思议的吸引力。
11:37
It has that sense of going up and away,
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那种悬上即离的感觉,
11:41
and yet you never think about how you would really trip
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然后你永远不知道整个过程是怎样的
11:44
if you were -- particularly going down.
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如果你知道,大概就是下来的时候吧。
11:46
And of course glass block has that sense of translucence.
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而且毋庸置疑的,玻璃砖具有那种半透明的感觉。
11:49
So, this session's supposed to be about pure pleasure
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因此,这部分讲到的是纯粹的愉悦
11:53
but glamour's really partly about meaning.
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不过魅力确实是一定程度上和涵义相关的。
11:56
All individuals and all cultures have ideals
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所有的个人所有的文化都在现实世界中
11:59
that cannot possibly be realized in reality.
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几乎无法实现的理想。
12:03
They have contradictions,
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矛盾是存在的,
12:05
they uphold principles that are incommensurable with each other --
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它支持着互相之前不具有可比性的原则,
12:08
whatever it is -- and yet these ideals give meaning and purpose
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不管它是什么,这些理想在我们的生活里表达出了
12:11
to our lives as cultures and as individuals.
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我们身为个人和文化的涵义和目的。
12:14
And the way we deal with that is we displace them --
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而我们处理它的方式就是将其替换掉--
12:18
we put them into a golden world, an imagined world,
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我们将其放入到流金岁月,幻想的世界中,
12:21
an age of heroes, the world to come.
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即将到来的,英雄的时代。
12:24
And in the life of an individual, we often associate that with some object.
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当你以个人的状态生活时,我们经常将其和某种实体联系在一起。
12:28
The white picket fence, the perfect house.
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那白色的尖桩篱栅,完美的房屋。
12:32
The perfect kitchen -- no bills on the counter in the perfect kitchen.
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完美的厨房--在柜台上面没有任何的账单。
12:35
You know, you buy that Viking range, this is what your kitchen will look like.
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你知道,你如果买的是那种北欧海盗风格的煤气灶,那么你的厨房就是这个样子的。
12:38
The perfect love life -- symbolized by the perfect necklace,
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完美的项链象征着完美的爱情,
12:41
the perfect diamond ring.
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完美的钻戒。
12:43
The perfect getaway in your perfect car.
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开上你的爱车逃离一切喧嚣。
12:45
This is an interior design firm that is literally called Utopia.
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这是一个叫做Utopia的室内装饰公司。
12:49
The perfect office --
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完美的办公室。
12:51
again, no cords, as far as I can tell.
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同样地,整齐有序,
12:53
And certainly, no, it doesn't look a thing like my office.
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当然,不,和我的办公室一点都不像。
12:56
I mean, there's no paper on the desk.
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我的意思是,写字台上空空如也。
12:58
We want this golden world.
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我们渴望这样完美的世界。
13:00
And some people get rich enough,
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当有些人足够富有的时候,
13:02
and if they have their ideals -- in a sort of domestic sense,
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而且他们的理想又存在于那种理家的观念,
13:06
they get to acquire their perfect world.
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他们就能达到理想的生活方式。
13:08
Dean Koontz built this fabulous home theater, which is --
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Dean Koontz以装饰艺术的风格建造了
13:11
I don't think accidentally -- in Art Deco style.
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这个绝伦的小影院--我认为这不是偶然的。
13:15
That symbolizes this sense of being safe and at home.
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这象征了这种家能给予安全的感觉。
13:18
This is not always good, because what is your perfect world?
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但这并不一定总是好的,因为你到底如何定义完美的世界?
13:21
What is your ideal, and also, what has been edited out?
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你的理想模型是什么,而且,把什么剔除出去了?
13:24
Is it something important?
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是一些重要的东西吗?
13:26
"The Matrix" is a movie that is all about glamour.
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那么,“黑客帝国”是一部关于魅力的电影大片。
13:29
I could do a whole talk on "The Matrix" and glamour.
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我可以就这个话题滔滔不绝
13:31
It was criticized for glamorizing violence,
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但是你知道,有批评者认为这对暴力进行了美化。
13:35
because, look -- sunglasses and those long coats, and, of course,
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因为你看-太阳镜,拉风的外衣,还有,当然,
13:40
they could walk up walls and do all these kinds of things
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他们可以在墙上行走,做各种在现实世界中
13:42
that are impossible in the real world.
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不可思议的事情。
13:44
This is another Margaret Bourke-White photo.
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这是Margaret Bourke的另一张黑白照片。
13:46
This is from Soviet Union. Attractive.
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来自前苏联,很不错。
13:48
I mean, look how happy the people are, and good-looking too.
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我的意思是,看看这些人,多么的开心,也多么的俊俏。
13:52
You know, we're marching toward Utopia.
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你知道,我们正在向着Utopia的方向前进。
13:55
I'm not a fan of PETA, but I think this is a great ad.
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我并不太支持PETA(善待动物组织),但是我认为这是一个很好的广告。
13:58
Because what they're doing is they're saying,
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因为他们的意思再清楚不过,
14:00
your coat's not so glamorous, what's been edited out is something important.
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你的大衣不够好看,缺少的就是一些重要的东西。
14:04
But actually, what's even more important
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但是实际上,比铭记这一点更重要的是
14:06
than remembering what's been edited out is thinking, are the ideals good?
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去思考,这种理想的模型真的是好的吗?
14:10
Because glamour can be very totalitarian and deceptive.
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因为魅力这个东西是非常集权性和迷惑性的。
14:14
And it's not just a matter of glamorizing cleaning your floor.
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而且也不仅仅关乎于“祛除”是不是一个具有魅力的工作。
14:17
This is from "Triumph Of The Will" --
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这个是来自电影“意志的胜利”
14:19
brilliant editing to cut together things.
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剪辑的工作做的非常棒。
14:21
There's a glamour shot.
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这个快照很赞。
14:23
National Socialism is all about glamour.
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纳粹主义和魔力紧紧相连。
14:25
It was a very aesthetic ideology.
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有一种非常美学的意识形态。
14:27
It was all about cleaning up Germany, and the West, and the world,
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主要内容是赶走德国人,西方世界,乃至全世界,
14:30
and ridding it of anything unglamorous.
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并且去掉任何单调乏味的东西。
14:32
So glamour can be dangerous.
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因此魅力,也可能是危险的代名词。
14:34
I think glamour has a genuine appeal, has a genuine value.
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我认为'魅力"有一种真正的吸引力,真正的价值。
14:37
I'm not against glamour.
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我并不反对魅力。
14:39
But there's a kind of wonder in the stuff that gets edited away in the cords of life.
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不过一种疑惑就是是否在生活的繁琐之中有些东西被祛除掉了。
14:44
And there is both a way to avoid the dangers of glamour
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而且这两种情况下都有避免“危险魅力”的方法
14:48
and a way to broaden your appreciation of it.
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同时让你更加对其赞叹。
14:50
And that's to take Isaac Mizrahi's advice
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让我们接受Isaac Mizrahi的建议
14:53
and confront the manipulation of it all,
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坦然面对所有的蓄意操作,
14:55
and sort of admit that manipulation is something that we enjoy,
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可以这么说,承认我们享受这个过程吧,
15:00
but also enjoy how it happens.
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而且也享受它发生的方式。
15:02
And here's Hedy Lamarr.
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这是Hedy Lamarr。
15:04
She's very glamorous but, you know, she invented spread-spectrum technology.
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没错,她如此的迷人,不过你得知道,她发明了扩展频谱科技。
15:07
So she's even more glamorous if you know that she really wasn't stupid,
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所以这使得她更加富有魅力了,因为她真的很聪明,
15:10
even though she thought she could look stupid.
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即使她认为她可以看出去很傻的样子。
15:12
David Hockney talks about how the appreciation of this
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David Hockney谈论过关于这个,我认为,
15:16
very glamorous painting is heightened if you think about
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非常吸引人的绘画作品的欣赏,如果你意识到这样一个事实
15:19
the fact that it takes two weeks to paint this splash,
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虽然现实的水花四溅稍纵即逝,但是绘画这个效果花费了
15:23
which only took a fraction of a second to happen.
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整整两周的时间,那么你就会更加珍视它。
15:25
There is a book out in the bookstore --
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这是书店里的一本书--
15:28
it's called "Symphony In Steel,"
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叫做“钢筋的交响乐”
15:30
and it's about the stuff that's hidden under the skin of the Disney Center.
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这讲述的是隐藏在迪斯尼中心靓丽外表下的水泥钢筋。
15:33
And that has a fascination.
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它如此的迷人。
15:35
It's not necessarily glamorous, but unveiling the glamour has an appeal.
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这并不是严格意义上的魅力,不过“揭示魅力”也算是一种魅力吧。
15:38
There's a wonderful book called "Crowns"
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有一本非常棒的书叫做“王冠”
15:41
that's all these glamour pictures of black women in their church hats.
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讲述的是黑人女性戴着教堂礼帽的那些迷人瞬间。
15:45
And there's a quote from one of these women, and she talks about,
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引用其中一位女士的话,
15:48
"As a little girl, I'd admire women at church with beautiful hats.
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“当我还是一个小女孩的时候,我非常羡慕那些在教堂戴着美丽礼帽的女士们。
15:51
They looked like beautiful dolls, like they'd just stepped out of a magazine.
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她们看起来就像漂亮的洋娃娃,好似刚从杂志封面中走出。
15:55
But I also knew how hard they worked all week.
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但是我也知道她们背后付出的艰辛努力。
15:58
Sometimes under those hats there's a lot of joy and a lot of sorrow."
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有时候,那些帽子下隐藏的不仅仅是欢乐,还有忧伤。
16:02
And, actually, you get more appreciation for glamour
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而且实际上,当你发现创造魅力的代价是什么的时候
16:05
when you realize what went into creating it.
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你才会对其发出更加由衷的赞叹。
16:08
Thank you.
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谢谢大家。
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