Virginia Postrel: The power of glamour

Prevoditelj: Martina Peraic Recezent: Senzos Osijek

You might be wondering why I'm wearing sunglasses,

Sigurno se pitate zašto nosim sunčane naočale

and one answer to that is, because I'm here to talk about glamour.

i jedan odgovor bi bio, zato što sam ovdje da bih govorila o glamuru.

So, we all think we know what glamour is. Here it is.

Svi mislimo da znamo što je glamur. Evo ga.

It's glamorous movie stars, like Marlene Dietrich.

Glamurozne glumačke zvijezde kao Marlene Dietrich.

And it comes in a male form, too --

Dolazi i u muškom obliku --

very glamorous.

vrlo glamurozno.

Not only can he shoot, drive, drink -- you know, he drinks wine,

On zna pucati, voziti, piti -- znate, on pije vino,

there actually is a little wine in there --

zapravo se vidi malo vina ovdje --

and of course, always wears a tuxedo.

i naravno, uvijek nosi odijelo.

But I think that glamour actually has a much broader meaning --

Ali mislim da glamur ima puno šire značenje --

one that is true for the movie stars and the fictional characters,

ima jedno značenje za glumačke zvijezde i izmišljene likove,

but also comes in other forms.

ali pojavljuje se i u drugim oblicima.

A magazine?

Časopis?

Well, it's certainly not this one.

Pa svakako ne ovaj.

Ovo je najmanje glamurozan časopis na kiosku -- prepun je savjeta o seksu.

This is the least glamorous magazine on the newsstand -- it's all about sex tips.

Sex tips are not glamorous.

Savjeti o seksu nisu glamurozni.

And Drew Barrymore, for all her wonderful charm,

Ni Drew Barrymore, koliko god šarmantna bila,

is not glamorous either.

nije glamurozna.

But there is a glamour of industry.

Ali postoji glamur industrije.

This is Margaret Bourke-White's --

Ovo je jedna od fotografija

one of her pictures she did.

Margaret Bourke-White.

Fantastic, glamorous pictures

Sjajne, glamurozne fotografije

of steel mills and paper mills and all kinds of glamorous industrial places.

mlinova za čelik i papir i raznovrsnih glamouroznih industrijskih lokacija.

And there's the mythic glamour

A tu je i mitski glamur

of the garage entrepreneur.

garažnog poduzetnika.

This is the Hewlett-Packard garage.

Ovo je garaža Hewlett-Packarda.

We know everyone who starts a business in a garage

Poznato je da svatko tko pokrene posao iz garaže

ends up founding Hewlett-Packard.

na kraju osnuje Hewlett-Packard.

There's the glamour of physics.

Postoji glamur fizike.

Nema ništa glamuroznije od razumijevanja kompletnog svemira,

What could be more glamorous than understanding the entire universe,

grand unification? And, by the way, it helps if you're Brian Greene --

velikog sjedinjenja? A usput, pomaže ako ste Brian Greene --

he has other kinds of glamour.

on posjeduje druge vrste glamura.

A tu je i ovaj glamur.

And there is, of course, this glamour.

This is very, very glamorous: the glamour of outer space --

Ovo je vrlo, vrlo glamurozno: glamur svemira --

and not the alien-style glamour,

i to ne glamur u stilu izvanzemaljaca,

but the nice, clean, early '60s version.

nego lijepa, čista verzija iz ranih 60-ih.

So what do we mean by glamour?

Što podrazumijevamo pod glamurom?

Well, one thing you can do if you want to know what glamour means

Ako želite saznati što znači glamur,

is you can look in the dictionary.

možete, primjerice, pogledati u rječnik.

I zapravo, puno više pomaže ako pogledate u vrlo star rječnik,

And it actually helps a lot more if you look in a very old dictionary,

in this case the 1913 dictionary.

u ovom slučaju iz 1913. godine.

Because for centuries, glamour had a very particular meaning,

Zato što je stoljećima glamur imao vrlo specifično značenje

and the word was actually used differently from the way we think of it.

i ta riječ je korištena drugačije nego kako mi mislimo o njoj.

Imali ste "jedan" glamur.

You had "a" glamour.

Nije se radilo o glamuru kao osobini -- nego ste "bacali glamur".

It wasn't glamour as a quality -- you "cast a glamour."

Glamour was a literal magic spell.

Glamur je bio doslovno magični trik.

Not a metaphorical one, the way we use it today,

Ne metaforički, kako ga koristimo danas,

but a literal magic spell associated with witches and gypsies

nego doslovna čarolija povezana s vješticama i ciganima

and to some extent, Celtic magic.

te ponešto s magijom Kelta.

And over the years, around the turn of the 20th century,

Tijekom godina, na prijelazu u 20. stoljeće,

it started to take on this other kind of deception --

počeo je označavati jednu drugu vrstu varke --

this definition for any artificial interest in, or association with,

ova definicija: "umjetno zanimanje ili poistovjećivanje

s objektom koji se čini prividno uvećan ili obožavan."

an object through which it appears delusively magnified or glorified.

But still, glamour is an illusion.

Ali glamur je i dalje privid.

Glamour is a magic spell.

Glamur je magična varka.

And there's something dangerous about glamour

I ima nešto opasno u vezi s glamurom

throughout most of history. When the witches cast a magic spell

kroz velik dio povijesti. Kada vještice bacaju magične čini

on you, it was not in your self-interest --

na vas, to nije u vašu korist --

it was to get you to act against your interest.

to je da bi vam se nanijela šteta.

Well of course, in the 20th century,

I naravno, u 20. stoljeću

glamour came to have this different meaning associated with Hollywood.

glamur je dobio drugačije značenje vezano uz Hollywood.

And this is Hedy Lamarr.

Ovo je Hedy Lamarr.

Hedy Lamarr said, "Anyone can look glamorous,

Ona je izjavila: "Svatko može izgledati glamurozno,

all you have to do is sit there and look stupid." (Laughter)

sve što trebate činiti jest samo sjediti i izgledati priglupo." (Smijeh)

But in fact, with all due respect to Hedy --

Ali zapravo -- uz svo poštovanje prema Hedy --

about whom we'll hear more later -- there's a lot more to it.

o kojoj ćemo još čuti kasnije -- glamur je mnogo više.

There was a tremendous amount of technical achievement

Postojala je ogromna količina tehničkih dostignuća

associated with creating this Hollywood glamour.

povezanih sa stvaranjem tog holivudskog glamura.

There were scores of retouchers and lighting experts and make-up experts.

Bilo je na desetine retušera i stručnjaka za osvjetljenje i šminku.

You can go to the museum of Hollywood history in Hollywood

Možete otići u muzej povijesti Hollywooda

and see Max Factor's special rooms that he painted different colors

i vidjeti posebne sobe Maxa Factora koje je obojao u različite boje

depending on the complexion of the star he was going to make up.

ovisno o tenu zvijezde koju je trebao šminkati.

So you've got this highly stylized portrait of something

Pa dobijete ove visoko stilizirane portrete nečega

that was not entirely of this earth -- it was a portrait of a star.

što nije bilo sasvim s ovog svijeta -- bio bi to portret zvijezde.

And actually, we see glamorized photos of stars all the time --

I zapravo, svako malo možemo vidjeti glamurizirane slike zvijezda --

they call them false color.

zovu ih pseudo boje.

Glamur je oblik falsificiranja,

Glamour is a form of falsification,

but falsification to achieve a particular purpose.

ali falsificiranja da bi se postigla određena svrha.

It may be to illuminate the star; it may be to sell a film.

Primjerice, da bi se osvjetlilo zvijezdu; ili da bi se prodalo film.

And it involves a great deal of technique.

I uključuje jako puno tehnike.

It's not -- glamour is not something --

Glamur nije nešto --

ne možete se probuditi glamurozni. Ne zanima me tko ste vi zapravo.

you don't wake up in the morning glamorous. I don't care who you are.

Even Nicole Kidman doesn't wake up in the morning glamorous.

Čak ni Nicole Kidman nije glamurozna kad se probudi.

There is a process of "idealization, glorification and dramatization,"

Postoji proces "idealizacije, uzdizanja i dramatizacije",

and it's not just the case for people.

i to se ne odnosi samo na ljude.

Glamour doesn't have to be people.

Glamur se ne mora odnositi na ljude.

Architectural photography --

Arhitekturalna fotografija --

Julius Schulman, who has talked about transfiguration,

Julius Schulman, koji je govorio o transfiguraciji,

took this fabulous, famous picture of the Kauffman House.

snimio je ovu prekrasnu slavnu fotografiju kuće Kauffman.

Architectural photography is extremely glamorous.

Arhitekturalna fotografija je iznimno glamurozna.

It puts you into this special, special world.

Postavlja vas u jedan vrlo poseban svijet.

This is Alex Ross's comic book art,

Ovo je umjetnost stripa Alexa Rossa,

which appears to be extremely realistic,

koja izgleda vrlo realistično,

as part of his style is he gives you a kind of realism in his comic art.

dio njegovog stila je da vam nudi vrstu realizma u svojoj umjetnosti.

Except that light doesn't work this way in the real world.

Osim što svjetlost ne funkcionira ovako u stvarnom svijetu.

When you stack people in rows,

Kada složite ljude u redove,

the ones in the background look smaller than the ones in the foreground --

oni u pozadini izgledaju manji nego oni naprijed --

but not in the world of glamour.

ali ne i u svijetu glamura.

What glamour is all about -- I took this from a blurb

Što je glamur -- uzela sam ovo iz natpisa

in the table of contents of New York magazine,

u sadržaju New York Magazina,

which was telling us that glamour is back --

koji nam je govorio kako se glamur vraća --

glamour is all about transcending the everyday.

"glamur znači nadilaženje svakodnevnoga."

And I think that that's starting to get at what the core

I mislim da je to prilično blizu onoga što je u korijenu

that combines all sorts of glamour is.

onoga što spaja različite oblika glamura.

This is Filippino Lippi's 1543 portrait of Saint Apollonia.

Ovo je portret svete Apolonije FIlippina Lippija iz 1543. godine.

And I don't know who she is either,

Ne znam niti tko je ona,

but this is the [16th] century equivalent of a supermodel.

ali ovo ovdje je ekvivalent supermodelu iz 16. stoljeća.

It's a very glamorous portrait.

To je vrlo glamurozan portret.

Why is it glamorous?

Zašto je glamurozan?

Prvo, jer je ona prelijepa --

It's glamorous, first, because she is beautiful --

but that does not make you glamorous,

ali ni to vas ne čini glamuroznima,

that only makes you beautiful.

to vas samo čini lijepima.

She is graceful, she is mysterious and she is transcendent,

Ona je graciozna, zagonetna, nadilazi sebe,

and those are the central qualities of glamour.

a to su glavne osobine glamura.

You don't see her eyes; they're looking downward.

Ne vidimo joj oči; one su oborene.

She's not looking away from you exactly,

Ona ne odvraća sasvim pogled od vas,

but you have to mentally imagine her world.

ali morate sami zamisliti njezin svijet.

She's encouraging you to contemplate this higher world

Ona vas potiče da promišljate o jednom uzvišenom svijetu

to which she belongs, where she can be completely tranquil

kojem ona pripada, gdje može biti sasvim spokojna

while holding the iron instruments of her death by torture.

dok drži željezne alate za svoju smrt mučenjem.

Mel Gibson's "Passion Of The Christ" -- not glamorous.

"Pasija" Mela Gibsona -- nimalo glamurozna.

That's glamour:

Ovo je glamur:

ovo je Michelangelova "Pietà" gdje je Marija istih godina kao Isus

that's Michelangelo's "Pieta," where Mary is the same age as Jesus

and they're both awfully happy and pleasant.

i oboje su užasno sretni i zadovoljni.

Glamour invites us to live in a different world.

Glamur nas poziva da živimo u drugačijem svijetu.

It has to simultaneously be mysterious, a little bit distant --

Istovremeno mora biti zagonetan, pomalo udaljen --

that's why, often in these glamour shots,

zato često na ovim glamuroznim snimkama

the person is not looking at the audience,

osoba ne gleda u publiku,

it's why sunglasses are glamorous --

zato su sunčane naočale glamurozne --

but also not so far above us that we can't identify with the person.

ali opet ne toliko iznad nas da se ne bismo mogli poistovjetiti s osobom.

In some sense, there has to be something like us.

U nekom smislu, tu mora postojati nešto slično nama.

Kako sam rekla, u vjerskoj umjetnosti, znate, Bog nije glamurozan.

So as I say, in religious art, you know, God is not glamorous.

God cannot be glamorous because God is omnipotent,

Bog ne može biti glamurozan jer je svemoguć,

omniscient -- too far above us.

sveznajuć -- previše iznad nas.

And yet you will see in religious art, saints or the Virgin Mary

A ipak ćete vidjeti da su u vjerskoj umjetnosti sveci ili Djevica Marija

will often be portrayed -- not always -- in glamorous forms.

često prikazani -- ne uvijek -- u glamuroznim oblicima.

As I said earlier, glamour does not have to be about people,

Kao što sam rekla, glamur se ne mora odnositi na ljude,

but it has to have this transcendent quality.

ali mora imati tu osobinu uzvišenosti.

What is it about Superman?

Što je sa Supermanom?

Osim stila Alexa Rossa, koji je vrlo glamurozan,

Aside from Alex Ross's style, which is very glamorous,

one thing about Superman is he makes you believe that a man can fly.

Superman čini da povjerujete kako čovjek može letjeti.

Glamour is all about transcending this world

Glamur je nadilaženje ovog svijeta

and getting to an idealized, perfect place.

i odlazak na idealizirano, savršeno mjesto.

And this is one reason that modes of transportation

I to je jedan razlog zašto su sredstva prijevoza

tend to be extremely glamorous.

često iznimno glamurozna.

The less experience we have with them,

Što manje iskustva imamo s njima,

the more glamorous they are.

to su glamuroznija.

So you can do a glamorized picture of a car,

Pa možete snimiti glamuriziranu fotografiju automobila,

but you can't do a glamorized picture of traffic.

ali ne i glamuriziranu fotografiju prometa.

You can do a glamorized picture of an airplane, but not the inside.

Možete glamurizirano snimiti avion, ali ne i njegovu unutrašnjost.

The notion is that it's going to transport you,

Ideja je da će vas on prevesti,

and the story is not about, you know, the guy in front of you in the airplane,

ali priču ne čini, znate, tip ispred vas u avionu,

who has this nasty little kid, or the big cough.

koji ima zločesto dijete, ili jako kašlje.

The story is about where you're arriving,

Radi se o tome kamo stižete,

or thinking about where you're arriving.

ili razmišljanje o tome kamo stižete.

And this sense of being transported

Taj osjećaj bivanja prevezenim

is one reason that we have glamour styling.

je jedan razlog zašto imamo glamuroznu stilizaciju.

This sort of streamlining styling is not just glamorous

Ova vrsta jednostavne stilizacije nije samo glamurozna

because we associate it with movies of that period, but because,

zato što je povezujemo s filmovima toga doba, već zato

in it's streamlining, it transports us from the everyday.

što nas ta jednostavnost udaljava od svakodnevnoga.

The same thing -- arches are very glamorous.

Isto tako - lukovi su vrlo glamurozni.

Arches with stained glass -- even more glamorous.

Lukovi obojenog stakla -- još glamurozniji.

Staircases that curve away from you are glamorous.

Stepeništa koja se zakrivljuju u daljinu su glamurozna.

I happen to find that particular staircase picture very glamorous

Smatram ovu fotografiju stepeništa vrlo glamuroznom

because, to me, it captures the whole promise

zato što, za mene, ona obuhvaća kompletnu pretpostavku

of the academic contemplative life --

akademskog, misaonog života --

but maybe that's because I went to Princeton.

ali možda je to zato što sam pohađala Princeton.

Anyway, skylines are super glamorous,

Snimke vrhova zgrada su vrlo glamurozne,

city streets -- not so glamorous.

dok ulice grada baš i nisu.

Znate, kada zapravo dođete u grad, otkrijete da je stvaran.

You know, when you get, actually to this town it has reality.

The horizon, the open road, is very, very glamorous.

Obzor i otvorena cesta su vrlo, vrlo glamurozni.

There are few things more glamorous than the horizon --

Gotovo ništa drugo nije tako glamurozno kao obzor --

except, possibly, multiple horizons.

osim, možda, više obzora.

Of course, here you don't feel the cold, or the heat --

Naravno, odavde ne možete osjetiti hladnoću, niti toplinu --

you just see the possibilities.

vidite samo mogućnosti.

Kako biste postigli glamur, potrebna vam je renesansna osobina

In order to pull glamour off, you need this Renaissance quality

of sprezzatura, which is a term coined by Castiglione

"sprezzatura", pojam koji je smislio Castiglione

in his book, "The Book Of The Courtier."

u svome djelu "Knjiga dvorjanina".

There's the not-glamorous version of what it looks like today,

Ovo je njegova neglamurozna verzija kako izgleda danas

after a few centuries.

nakon nekoliko stoljeća.

And sprezzatura is the art that conceals art.

Sprezzatura je umjetnost skrivanja umjetnosti.

Čini da stvari izgledaju postignute bez truda.

It makes things look effortless.

Vi ne razmišljate o tome kako Nicole Kidman manevrira svojom haljinom,

You don't think about how Nicole Kidman is maneuvering that dress --

she just looks completely natural.

ona jednostavno izgleda potpuno prirodno.

Sjećam se da sam pročitala, nakon filmova o Lari Croft,

And I remember reading, after the Lara Croft movies,

how Angelina Jolie would go home completely black and blue.

kako bi Angelina Jolie odlazila kući kompletno plava od udaraca.

Of course, they covered that with make-up,

Naravno, pokrili su to šminkom

because Lara Croft did all those same stunts --

zato što bi Lara Croft izvodila sve te akrobacije,

but she doesn't get black and blue, because she has sprezzatura.

ali ona ne poplavi od udaraca jer posjeduje sprezzaturu.

"To conceal all art and make whatever is done or said appear to be without effort":

"Prikriti svu umjetnost i učiniti da što god se kaže ili učini izgleda bez truda":

And this is one of the critical aspects of glamour.

Ovo je ključan aspekt glamura.

Glamur znači dotjerivanje.

Glamour is about editing.

Kako stvoriti dojam uzvišenosti,

How do you create the sense of transcendence,

the sense of evoking a perfect world?

dojam prizivanja savršenog svijeta?

The sense of, you know, life could be better, I could join this --

Onaj dojam, znate, život bi mogao biti bolji, mogao bih postati ovakav --

I could be a perfect person, I could join this perfect world.

Mogao bih postati savršena osoba, mogu se pridružiti tom savršenom svijetu.

We don't tell you all the grubby details.

Ali vam ne kažemo sve prljave detalje.

Now, this was kindly lent to me by Jeff Bezos, from last year.

Ovo mi je lani rado ustupio Jeff Bezos.

This is underneath Jeff's desk.

Ovo se nalazi ispod Jeffova stola.

This is what the real world of computers,

Ovako izgleda stvarni svijet računala,

lamps, electrical appliances of all kinds, looks like.

svjetiljki, raznih električnih uređaja.

But if you look in a catalog --

Ali ako pogledate u katalog --

particularly a catalog of modern, beautiful objects for your home --

posebno katalog modernih, lijepih predmeta za vaš dom --

it looks like this.

to izgleda ovako.

There are no cords.

Nema žica.

Look next time you get these catalogs in your mail --

Pogledajte sljedeći put kad dobijete katalog poštom --

obično možete zaključiti gdje su skrili žice.

you can usually figure out where they hid the cord.

But there's always this illusion that if you buy this lamp,

Ali uvijek je prisutna iluzija da ako kupite ovu svjetiljku,

you will live in a world without cords. (Laughter)

živjet ćete u svijetu bez žica. (Smijeh)

And the same thing is true of, if you buy this laptop

Ista stvar vrijedi ako kupite ovaj laptop

ili ako kupite ovo računalo -- čak u ovom bežičnom dobu,

or you buy this computer -- and even in these wireless eras,

you don't get to live in the world without cords.

ipak ne možete živjeti u svijetu bez žica.

You have to have mystery and you have to have grace.

Morate imati zagonetku i morate imati gracioznost.

And there she is -- Grace.

I evo je -- Grace.

Ovo je, smatram, najglamuroznija fotografija ikada.

This is the most glamorous picture, I think, ever.

Part of the thing is that, in "Rear Window,"

Dio toga je što u "Prozoru u dvorište",

the question is, is she too glamorous to live in his world?

pitanje je, nije li suviše glamurozna da bi živjela u njegovom svijetu?

And the answer is no, but of course it's really just a movie.

Odgovor je ne, ali naravno, to je samo film.

Here's Hedy Lamarr again.

Ovo je opet Hedy Lamarr.

And, you know, this kind of head covering is extremely glamorous

Ova vrsta pokrivala za glavu je iznimno glamurozna

because, like sunglasses, it conceals and reveals at the same time.

zato što, poput sunčanih naočala, istodobno skriva i otkriva.

Translucence is glamorous --

Svjetlucanje je glamurozno.

that's why all these people wear pearls.

Zato svi ti ljudi nose bisere.

It's why barware is glamorous. Glamour is translucent --

Zato je barska oprema glamurozna. Glamur je svjetlucav --

not transparent, not opaque.

ne proziran, a niti posve neproziran.

It invites us into the world

Poziva nas u svijet,

but it doesn't give us a completely clear picture.

ali nam ne nudi posve jasnu sliku.

And I think if Grace Kelly is the most glamorous person,

Mislim da, ako je Grace Kelly najglamuroznija osoba,

onda su spiralne stepenice okružene staklom najglamuroznija snimka interijera,

maybe a spiral staircase with glass block may be the most glamorous interior shot,

because a spiral staircase is incredibly glamorous.

zato što su spiralne stepenice nevjerojatno glamurozne.

It has that sense of going up and away,

Imaju taj dojam penjanja i odlaska,

and yet you never think about how you would really trip

a ipak nikad ne razmišljate kako biste se zapravo spotaknuli

if you were -- particularly going down.

ako biste -- posebno ako biste silazili.

A naravno, stakleno okružje nosi taj dojam svjetlucavosti.

And of course glass block has that sense of translucence.

So, this session's supposed to be about pure pleasure

Ovaj govor bi trebao biti o čistom užitku,

but glamour's really partly about meaning.

ali glamur samo djelomično predstavlja značenje.

Svi pojedinci i kulture imaju ideale

All individuals and all cultures have ideals

that cannot possibly be realized in reality.

koje je nemoguće ostvariti.

They have contradictions,

Postoje suprotnosti,

they uphold principles that are incommensurable with each other --

održavaju se načela koja nisu međusobno sumjerljiva --

whatever it is -- and yet these ideals give meaning and purpose

što god to bilo -- a ipak ti ideali daju smisao i svrhu

to our lives as cultures and as individuals.

našim životima kao kulturama i pojedincima.

And the way we deal with that is we displace them --

Način na koji se nosimo s tim jest da se udaljimo od njih --

we put them into a golden world, an imagined world,

smjestimo ih u zlatni svijet, zamišljeni svijet,

an age of heroes, the world to come.

doba junaka, svijet koji tek dolazi.

And in the life of an individual, we often associate that with some object.

U životu pojedinca, često to povezujemo s nekim objektom.

The white picket fence, the perfect house.

Bijelom ogradom, savršenom kućom.

Savršenom kuhinjom -- u kojoj nema računa na stolu.

The perfect kitchen -- no bills on the counter in the perfect kitchen.

You know, you buy that Viking range, this is what your kitchen will look like.

Znate, ako kupite ovaj vikinški komplet, tako će izgledati i vaša kuhinja.

The perfect love life -- symbolized by the perfect necklace,

Savršen ljubavni život -- koji simbolizira savršena ogrlica,

the perfect diamond ring.

savršeni dijamantni prsten.

Savršen bijeg u vašem savršenom automobilu.

The perfect getaway in your perfect car.

Ovo je tvrtka za dizajn interijera koja se doslovno zove Utopija.

This is an interior design firm that is literally called Utopia.

The perfect office --

Savršeni ured --

opet, bez žica, koliko vidim.

again, no cords, as far as I can tell.

And certainly, no, it doesn't look a thing like my office.

I svakako, nimalo ne izgleda kao moj ured.

I mean, there's no paper on the desk.

Mislim, nema papira na stolu.

Želimo taj zlatni svijet.

We want this golden world.

And some people get rich enough,

Neki ljudi se dovoljno obogate,

and if they have their ideals -- in a sort of domestic sense,

i ako imaju ideale -- u ovom kućnom smislu,

they get to acquire their perfect world.

dobiju priliku ući u taj savršeni svijet.

Dean Koontz sagradio je ovo divno kućno kazalište, koje je --

Dean Koontz built this fabulous home theater, which is --

I don't think accidentally -- in Art Deco style.

mislim, ne slučajno -- u stilu art decoa.

On simbolizira osjećaj bivanja sigurnim u svom domu.

That symbolizes this sense of being safe and at home.

This is not always good, because what is your perfect world?

To nije uvijek dobro, jer što je vaš savršeni svijet?

What is your ideal, and also, what has been edited out?

Što je vaš ideal, i također, što je izostavljeno?

Is it something important?

Je li to nešto bitno?

"The Matrix" is a movie that is all about glamour.

Glamur je posvuda u filmu "Matrix".

I could do a whole talk on "The Matrix" and glamour.

Mogla bih održati cijeli govor samo o glamuru u "Matrixu".

It was criticized for glamorizing violence,

Film je kritiziran zbog glamuriziranja nasilja,

because, look -- sunglasses and those long coats, and, of course,

jer, vidite -- sunčane naočale i ti dugi kaputi i, naravno,

they could walk up walls and do all these kinds of things

oni mogu hodati zidovima i raditi sve te stvari

that are impossible in the real world.

koje su nemoguće u stvarnosti.

This is another Margaret Bourke-White photo.

Ovo je još jedna fotografija koju je snimila Margaret Bourke-White.

This is from Soviet Union. Attractive.

Ovo je iz Sovjetskog saveza. Privlačno.

I mean, look how happy the people are, and good-looking too.

Vidite kako su ljudi sretni, pa i zgodni.

You know, we're marching toward Utopia.

Znate, koračamo ka utopiji.

I'm not a fan of PETA, but I think this is a great ad.

Nisam obožavatelj PETA-e, ali ovo je sjajna reklama.

Because what they're doing is they're saying,

Jer ovdje nam govore,

your coat's not so glamorous, what's been edited out is something important.

vaš kaput nije glamurozan, nešto bitno je izbrisano.

But actually, what's even more important

Ali što je još važnije

than remembering what's been edited out is thinking, are the ideals good?

od prisjećanja što je izbrisano jest razmisliti, jesu li ideali dobri?

Because glamour can be very totalitarian and deceptive.

Zato što glamur može biti vrlo totalitaran i obmanjiv.

And it's not just a matter of glamorizing cleaning your floor.

I ne radi se samo o glamuriziranju čišćenja vašeg poda.

This is from "Triumph Of The Will" --

Ovo je iz "Trijumfa volje" --

brilliant editing to cut together things.

sjajno uređeno kako bi se spojile stvari.

There's a glamour shot.

Ovo je glamurozan snimak.

Nacionalsocijalizam bio je pun glamura.

National Socialism is all about glamour.

It was a very aesthetic ideology.

Bila je to vrlo estetska ideologija.

It was all about cleaning up Germany, and the West, and the world,

Bavila se čišćenjem Njemačke, Zapada i svijeta,

and ridding it of anything unglamorous.

trebalo se riješiti svega što je neglamurozno.

So glamour can be dangerous.

Stoga glamur može biti opasan.

I think glamour has a genuine appeal, has a genuine value.

Mislim da glamur ima jedinstvenu privlačnost i vrijednost.

I'm not against glamour.

Nisam protiv glamura.

But there's a kind of wonder in the stuff that gets edited away in the cords of life.

Ali postoji određeno divljenje u stvarima koje se izostave poput žica života.

And there is both a way to avoid the dangers of glamour

Postoji i način da se izbjegnu opasnosti glamura,

and a way to broaden your appreciation of it.

a i način kako proširiti naše štovanje glamura.

And that's to take Isaac Mizrahi's advice

A to je da prihvatimo savjet Isaaca Mizrahija

and confront the manipulation of it all,

i suočimo se sa svom tom manipulacijom,

and sort of admit that manipulation is something that we enjoy,

da priznamo kako uživamo u toj manipulaciji,

but also enjoy how it happens.

ali da uživamo i u načinu kako se ona postiže.

And here's Hedy Lamarr.

Evo Hedy Lamarr.

Ona je vrlo otmjena, ali, znate, ona je izmislila širokopojasnu tehnologiju.

She's very glamorous but, you know, she invented spread-spectrum technology.

So she's even more glamorous if you know that she really wasn't stupid,

Tako da je još glamuroznija ako znamo da u biti nije bila glupa,

even though she thought she could look stupid.

iako je mislila da može izgledati glupo.

David Hockney talks about how the appreciation of this

David Hockney nam govori kako više možemo cijeniti ovu

very glamorous painting is heightened if you think about

vrlo glamuroznu sliku ako pomislimo

the fact that it takes two weeks to paint this splash,

na činjenicu da je potrebno dva tjedna za slikanje ovog vala,

which only took a fraction of a second to happen.

koji se u stvarnosti dogodi za manje od sekunde.

There is a book out in the bookstore --

U knjižarama ima knjiga --

zove se "Simfonija u čeliku",

it's called "Symphony In Steel,"

govori o stvarima skrivenima pod fasadom Disneyevog centra.

and it's about the stuff that's hidden under the skin of the Disney Center.

U tome je fascinacija.

And that has a fascination.

To nije nužno glamurozno, ali razotkrivanje glamura je privlačno.

It's not necessarily glamorous, but unveiling the glamour has an appeal.

There's a wonderful book called "Crowns"

Postoji predivna knjiga "Krune",

that's all these glamour pictures of black women in their church hats.

puna glamuroznih fotografija crnkinja sa svojim šeširima za crkvu.

And there's a quote from one of these women, and she talks about,

Postoji izjava jedne od tih žena, i ona govori,

"As a little girl, I'd admire women at church with beautiful hats.

"Kao djevojčica, divila sam se ženama u crkvi s prelijepim šeširima.

They looked like beautiful dolls, like they'd just stepped out of a magazine.

Izgledale su kao prelijepe lutke, kao da su iskoračile iz časopisa.

But I also knew how hard they worked all week.

Ali znala sam i koliko naporno rade tijekom tjedna.

Sometimes under those hats there's a lot of joy and a lot of sorrow."

Ponekad se ispod tih šešira nalazilo puno radosti i puno tuge."

And, actually, you get more appreciation for glamour

I zapravo više naučite cijeniti glamur

when you realize what went into creating it.

kada znate što je sve bilo potrebno kako bi ga se stvorilo.

Thank you.

Hvala.