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譯者: Coco Shen
審譯者: Geoff Chen
00:18
You might be wondering why I'm wearing sunglasses,
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你可能會疑惑為什麼我戴著太陽眼鏡
00:20
and one answer to that is, because I'm here to talk about glamour.
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其中的一個答案就是因為我今天的主題是魅惑。
00:25
So, we all think we know what glamour is. Here it is.
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我們都以為自己知道魅惑是甚麼
00:28
It's glamorous movie stars, like Marlene Dietrich.
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一個魅力十足的電影巨星,就像 Marlene Dietrich
00:31
And it comes in a male form, too --
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也有男性。
00:33
very glamorous.
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非常迷人。
00:35
Not only can he shoot, drive, drink -- you know, he drinks wine,
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不僅僅因為他可以射擊,開車-- 他也喝酒
00:39
there actually is a little wine in there --
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照片裡也真的有酒
00:41
and of course, always wears a tuxedo.
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當然,他總是穿著燕尾服
00:44
But I think that glamour actually has a much broader meaning --
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但我認為,魅惑實際上有一個更廣泛的含義
00:48
one that is true for the movie stars and the fictional characters,
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不但實現在電影明星和虛構人物身上
00:52
but also comes in other forms.
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但也出現在其他形式。
00:54
A magazine?
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一本雜誌?
00:56
Well, it's certainly not this one.
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那麼,它肯定不是這一個。
00:58
This is the least glamorous magazine on the newsstand -- it's all about sex tips.
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這是報攤上最缺乏魅力的雜誌 - 全是性愛祕訣
01:01
Sex tips are not glamorous.
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性愛祕訣無關魅惑
01:03
And Drew Barrymore, for all her wonderful charm,
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和茱麗芭摩爾,雖然她很迷人
01:06
is not glamorous either.
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但那仍然不是魅力
01:08
But there is a glamour of industry.
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這個產業裡有一種特定的魅力
01:10
This is Margaret Bourke-White's --
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這是 Margaret Bourke White
01:12
one of her pictures she did.
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所照的照片
01:14
Fantastic, glamorous pictures
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神奇,迷人的照片
01:17
of steel mills and paper mills and all kinds of glamorous industrial places.
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鋼鐵廠和造紙廠和各種魅力的工業場所。
01:21
And there's the mythic glamour
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從車庫創業
01:23
of the garage entrepreneur.
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也帶有一種神奇魅力
01:25
This is the Hewlett-Packard garage.
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這是惠普車庫。
01:27
We know everyone who starts a business in a garage
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我們都知道誰從車庫開始創業
01:30
ends up founding Hewlett-Packard.
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最終最後成立惠普。
01:33
There's the glamour of physics.
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有物理的魅惑
01:35
What could be more glamorous than understanding the entire universe,
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有什麼比了解整個宇宙更具魅惑呢
01:37
grand unification? And, by the way, it helps if you're Brian Greene --
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全體合一,如果你是 Brian Greene 更好
01:41
he has other kinds of glamour.
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他擁有其他種類的魅力
01:43
And there is, of course, this glamour.
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還有,當然,這種魅力
01:45
This is very, very glamorous: the glamour of outer space --
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這是非常,非常迷人 - 太空的魅惑
01:48
and not the alien-style glamour,
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不是外星人的魅惑
01:51
but the nice, clean, early '60s version.
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而是美觀大方,乾淨,60年代初的版本。
01:54
So what do we mean by glamour?
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那麼,我們所說的魅惑究竟是甚麼
01:56
Well, one thing you can do if you want to know what glamour means
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如果你想知道魅惑的意思
02:00
is you can look in the dictionary.
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可以去查字典。
02:02
And it actually helps a lot more if you look in a very old dictionary,
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如果你看的是一本非常老的字典就更好了
02:05
in this case the 1913 dictionary.
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在這種情況下,1913年的字典。
02:07
Because for centuries, glamour had a very particular meaning,
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因為數百年來,魅惑 (glamour) 有一個非常特別的意義,
02:12
and the word was actually used differently from the way we think of it.
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我們使用它的方式和我們思考它的方式不同
02:17
You had "a" glamour.
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你有魅力
02:19
It wasn't glamour as a quality -- you "cast a glamour."
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這不只是一種質感 - 你還得使用它
02:21
Glamour was a literal magic spell.
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魅惑就像是一種魔咒
02:24
Not a metaphorical one, the way we use it today,
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不只是一種隱喻,像我們今日的用法
02:26
but a literal magic spell associated with witches and gypsies
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而是一種真的魔法,像巫婆和吉普賽人
02:30
and to some extent, Celtic magic.
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並在一定程度上,凱爾特人魔術。
02:33
And over the years, around the turn of the 20th century,
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這些年來,在20世紀之交,
02:36
it started to take on this other kind of deception --
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它開始帶著一種欺騙
02:42
this definition for any artificial interest in, or association with,
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像是對一個虛假的,不實放大或美化的物件
02:47
an object through which it appears delusively magnified or glorified.
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產生虛假的興趣或與其有關
02:52
But still, glamour is an illusion.
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但儘管如此,魅惑是一種錯覺。
02:54
Glamour is a magic spell.
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魅惑是一個神奇的咒語。
02:57
And there's something dangerous about glamour
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魅惑還有些危險
02:59
throughout most of history. When the witches cast a magic spell
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縱觀大部分的歷史,當女巫對你
03:03
on you, it was not in your self-interest --
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施咒
03:05
it was to get you to act against your interest.
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那往往是與你心相悖的
03:07
Well of course, in the 20th century,
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嗯,當然,在 20 世紀,
03:09
glamour came to have this different meaning associated with Hollywood.
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魅惑因為好萊塢有了全新的定義
03:13
And this is Hedy Lamarr.
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這是 Hedy Lamarr
03:15
Hedy Lamarr said, "Anyone can look glamorous,
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她說,"任何人都可以迷人
03:17
all you have to do is sit there and look stupid." (Laughter)
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只要坐著裝笨就行了。"
03:20
But in fact, with all due respect to Hedy --
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我們稍後還會繼續提到 Hedy
03:25
about whom we'll hear more later -- there's a lot more to it.
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和他的言論,與我們今天的主題息息相關
03:29
There was a tremendous amount of technical achievement
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有許多驚人的科技發展
03:32
associated with creating this Hollywood glamour.
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和創造這種好萊塢魅惑有關
03:34
There were scores of retouchers and lighting experts and make-up experts.
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有燈光師、化妝師和修片師
03:38
You can go to the museum of Hollywood history in Hollywood
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你可以到好萊塢歷史博物館
03:41
and see Max Factor's special rooms that he painted different colors
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看看 Max Factor 為了不同膚色的明星
03:44
depending on the complexion of the star he was going to make up.
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所設計的特殊房間,牆上的不同顏色
03:48
So you've got this highly stylized portrait of something
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於是你得到了這種高度設計的人像
03:51
that was not entirely of this earth -- it was a portrait of a star.
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不完全屬於這個地球,而是一張明星的相片
03:54
And actually, we see glamorized photos of stars all the time --
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試試上,我們時常看見這些造假的魅惑巨星照
03:58
they call them false color.
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他們稱之為假彩色
04:00
Glamour is a form of falsification,
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魅惑是一種形式的弄虛作假,
04:04
but falsification to achieve a particular purpose.
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為達到某種特殊目的
04:07
It may be to illuminate the star; it may be to sell a film.
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可能是哄抬明星,或是為電影行銷
04:11
And it involves a great deal of technique.
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它涉及了大量的技術。
04:13
It's not -- glamour is not something --
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這不是 - 魅惑並不自然
04:15
you don't wake up in the morning glamorous. I don't care who you are.
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無論你是誰,你都不會一醒來就如此具有魅力
04:18
Even Nicole Kidman doesn't wake up in the morning glamorous.
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就算妮可基曼也不能
04:21
There is a process of "idealization, glorification and dramatization,"
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它總是要經過理想化,美化和戲劇化,
04:25
and it's not just the case for people.
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不只針對人物
04:27
Glamour doesn't have to be people.
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魅力不只限於人物
04:29
Architectural photography --
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建築攝影 -
04:31
Julius Schulman, who has talked about transfiguration,
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討論變型的 Julius Schulman
04:34
took this fabulous, famous picture of the Kauffman House.
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照了這張著名的 Kauffman House 照
04:37
Architectural photography is extremely glamorous.
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建築攝影是非常魅惑的
04:40
It puts you into this special, special world.
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它讓你進入這個特別的世界
04:44
This is Alex Ross's comic book art,
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這是Alex Ross的漫畫
04:47
which appears to be extremely realistic,
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看上去非常真實
04:49
as part of his style is he gives you a kind of realism in his comic art.
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在他的漫畫中,他給了你一種真實感
04:54
Except that light doesn't work this way in the real world.
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但真實世界的燈光並不實這樣
04:57
When you stack people in rows,
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當你把人排成一排
04:59
the ones in the background look smaller than the ones in the foreground --
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後面的人看上去應該比前面的人小
05:02
but not in the world of glamour.
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但在魅惑世界不是這樣
05:05
What glamour is all about -- I took this from a blurb
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魅惑是怎麼一回事
05:08
in the table of contents of New York magazine,
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我在紐約一本雜誌的的目錄裡看見這個
05:11
which was telling us that glamour is back --
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告訴我們魅惑回來了
05:13
glamour is all about transcending the everyday.
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魅惑超越日常生活
05:16
And I think that that's starting to get at what the core
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我認為這已經幾乎達到
05:19
that combines all sorts of glamour is.
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結合所有魅惑的核心了
05:22
This is Filippino Lippi's 1543 portrait of Saint Apollonia.
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這是 Fiilippino Lippi 1543年所繪的聖徒 Apollonia 相
05:27
And I don't know who she is either,
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我也不知道她是誰
05:29
but this is the [16th] century equivalent of a supermodel.
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在15世紀大概相當與今日的名模
05:32
It's a very glamorous portrait.
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一幅非常魅惑的畫像
05:34
Why is it glamorous?
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魅惑在哪?
05:36
It's glamorous, first, because she is beautiful --
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魅惑,第一因為她美麗
05:38
but that does not make you glamorous,
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但這不足以讓你魅惑他人
05:40
that only makes you beautiful.
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只有讓你美麗。
05:42
She is graceful, she is mysterious and she is transcendent,
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她優雅,她是神秘的,她是超越性,
05:47
and those are the central qualities of glamour.
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這些都是魅惑的基本要素
05:49
You don't see her eyes; they're looking downward.
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你看不見她的眼睛,她垂下眼
05:53
She's not looking away from you exactly,
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她並不是不看你
05:55
but you have to mentally imagine her world.
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但你必須自己想像她的世界
05:59
She's encouraging you to contemplate this higher world
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她的鼓勵你去思考這個更高的層次
06:03
to which she belongs, where she can be completely tranquil
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她在那裡全然安靜
06:06
while holding the iron instruments of her death by torture.
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手持折磨她致死的鐵器
06:10
Mel Gibson's "Passion Of The Christ" -- not glamorous.
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梅爾吉勃遜的“基督受難記” - 不魅惑
06:13
That's glamour:
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這才是魅惑
06:15
that's Michelangelo's "Pieta," where Mary is the same age as Jesus
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這是米開朗基羅的“聖母憐子圖”,其中瑪麗和耶穌童年
06:18
and they're both awfully happy and pleasant.
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他們倆如此幸福愉快
06:21
Glamour invites us to live in a different world.
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魅惑讓我們活在不同世界
06:24
It has to simultaneously be mysterious, a little bit distant --
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它又神祕又遙遠
06:28
that's why, often in these glamour shots,
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這就是為甚麼在這些魅惑的相片中
06:30
the person is not looking at the audience,
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他們從不直視觀眾
06:32
it's why sunglasses are glamorous --
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這就是為甚麼太陽眼鏡如此魅惑
06:35
but also not so far above us that we can't identify with the person.
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但又不至於讓我們認不出那人
06:39
In some sense, there has to be something like us.
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從某種意義上說,它必須和我們有些共通處
06:43
So as I say, in religious art, you know, God is not glamorous.
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因此,正如我說,在宗教藝術,你知道,神是不魅惑的
06:46
God cannot be glamorous because God is omnipotent,
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神不迷人因為祂無所不在
06:49
omniscient -- too far above us.
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無所不知 - 這有些太遙遠了
06:51
And yet you will see in religious art, saints or the Virgin Mary
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然而,你會看到在宗教藝術,聖人或聖母瑪利亞
06:54
will often be portrayed -- not always -- in glamorous forms.
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往往被描繪 - 並不總是 - 用一種魅惑的方式
06:57
As I said earlier, glamour does not have to be about people,
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正如我剛才所說,魅惑不一定和觀眾有關
07:01
but it has to have this transcendent quality.
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但必須有一種穿透性
07:04
What is it about Superman?
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超人呢?
07:06
Aside from Alex Ross's style, which is very glamorous,
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除了來自 Alex Ross 的魅惑風格
07:08
one thing about Superman is he makes you believe that a man can fly.
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超人讓你相信人可以飛
07:12
Glamour is all about transcending this world
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魅惑有關超越這個世界
07:15
and getting to an idealized, perfect place.
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到一個理想的,完美的地方
07:19
And this is one reason that modes of transportation
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這也是為甚麼運輸系統
07:23
tend to be extremely glamorous.
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總是非常魅惑
07:25
The less experience we have with them,
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我們越不曾經歷的
07:27
the more glamorous they are.
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越魅惑
07:29
So you can do a glamorized picture of a car,
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你可以做一個魅惑的車照
07:32
but you can't do a glamorized picture of traffic.
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但你不能做出一張魅惑的塞車照
07:34
You can do a glamorized picture of an airplane, but not the inside.
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你可以做一張魅惑的飛機相片,但不包括內部
07:38
The notion is that it's going to transport you,
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那概念是:它會帶你到其它地方
07:40
and the story is not about, you know, the guy in front of you in the airplane,
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這和坐你前面的那傢伙無關
07:44
who has this nasty little kid, or the big cough.
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和這個討厭的小孩是誰的,或大聲咳嗽無關
07:48
The story is about where you're arriving,
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這故事和你的目的地有關
07:50
or thinking about where you're arriving.
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或想像你的目的地
07:52
And this sense of being transported
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這種被帶走的感覺
07:54
is one reason that we have glamour styling.
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就是魅惑風格的來源
07:58
This sort of streamlining styling is not just glamorous
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這些線條並不只是魅惑
08:02
because we associate it with movies of that period, but because,
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不只因為我們會因此想到同期的電影
08:06
in it's streamlining, it transports us from the everyday.
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而是在這些線條中,我們忘記了日常生活
08:09
The same thing -- arches are very glamorous.
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相同的,拱門很魅惑
08:12
Arches with stained glass -- even more glamorous.
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拱門和彩色玻璃,更魅惑
08:15
Staircases that curve away from you are glamorous.
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旋轉樓梯非常魅惑
08:18
I happen to find that particular staircase picture very glamorous
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某些樓梯圖片對我來說非常魅惑
08:21
because, to me, it captures the whole promise
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因為對我來說,它就像在承諾我
08:23
of the academic contemplative life --
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一個學術的、深思的生活
08:26
but maybe that's because I went to Princeton.
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但也許那是因為我去了普林斯頓大學。
08:28
Anyway, skylines are super glamorous,
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天際線非常魅惑
08:31
city streets -- not so glamorous.
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街道 - 沒這麼魅惑
08:33
You know, when you get, actually to this town it has reality.
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你知道的,真實並不魅惑
08:36
The horizon, the open road, is very, very glamorous.
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地平線上,在開闊的道路,是非常,非常魅惑
08:40
There are few things more glamorous than the horizon --
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很少有甚麼事情比地平線更魅惑
08:43
except, possibly, multiple horizons.
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除了多重的地平線
08:47
Of course, here you don't feel the cold, or the heat --
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當然,在這裡你不覺得冷,或熱 -
08:52
you just see the possibilities.
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你看到的只是可能性
08:54
In order to pull glamour off, you need this Renaissance quality
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想要達到魅惑的效果,你需要文藝復興的質感
08:58
of sprezzatura, which is a term coined by Castiglione
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Castiglione 在它的“朝臣書”中
09:03
in his book, "The Book Of The Courtier."
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創造了 sprezzatura 這個詞
09:05
There's the not-glamorous version of what it looks like today,
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經過幾個世紀,這本書今日
09:08
after a few centuries.
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看上去不再魅惑
09:10
And sprezzatura is the art that conceals art.
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sprezzatura 是一種隱藏的藝術。
09:14
It makes things look effortless.
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它使事情看起來不費吹灰之力。
09:16
You don't think about how Nicole Kidman is maneuvering that dress --
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你不想知道妮可基曼如何努力套進那件禮服
09:20
she just looks completely natural.
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她看上去非常自然舒服
09:22
And I remember reading, after the Lara Croft movies,
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裘莉在拍攝古墓奇兵期間
09:25
how Angelina Jolie would go home completely black and blue.
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打的全身是傷,滿身的瘀青
09:29
Of course, they covered that with make-up,
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但當然他們都用化妝掩蓋了
09:31
because Lara Croft did all those same stunts --
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因為女主角做了所有的動作
09:33
but she doesn't get black and blue, because she has sprezzatura.
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卻毫無瘀青,因為她有 sprezzatura
09:37
"To conceal all art and make whatever is done or said appear to be without effort":
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掩蓋所有的努力,看上去毫不費力
09:42
And this is one of the critical aspects of glamour.
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事實上,這是魅惑的一個重點
09:45
Glamour is about editing.
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魅力是有關編輯。
09:47
How do you create the sense of transcendence,
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妮如果創造穿透力
09:49
the sense of evoking a perfect world?
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喚起一個完美世界
09:52
The sense of, you know, life could be better, I could join this --
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生活可以更好,我可以加入它們
09:56
I could be a perfect person, I could join this perfect world.
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我可以是一個完美的人,加入這個完美的世界。
09:58
We don't tell you all the grubby details.
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我們不告訴你任何骯髒的細節。
10:01
Now, this was kindly lent to me by Jeff Bezos, from last year.
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這是 Jeff Bezos 好心借我的
10:05
This is underneath Jeff's desk.
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這是傑夫辦公桌下面的模樣
10:07
This is what the real world of computers,
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這是現實世界的電腦,
10:10
lamps, electrical appliances of all kinds, looks like.
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燈具,電器的各種模樣。
10:14
But if you look in a catalog --
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但如果你看今天目錄 -
10:16
particularly a catalog of modern, beautiful objects for your home --
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在你為你的家找尋一個現代的、美麗的傢具時
10:19
it looks like this.
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它看起來像這樣。
10:21
There are no cords.
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沒有電線。
10:23
Look next time you get these catalogs in your mail --
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下次當你收到這些目錄時
10:26
you can usually figure out where they hid the cord.
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你可以想像他們都把線藏到哪裡去了
10:29
But there's always this illusion that if you buy this lamp,
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但你總是有這種幻覺:如果你買了這盞燈
10:32
you will live in a world without cords. (Laughter)
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你將活在一個沒有電線的世界
10:35
And the same thing is true of, if you buy this laptop
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如果你買了這台筆記本電腦
10:38
or you buy this computer -- and even in these wireless eras,
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或者是這台電腦 - 甚至在這個無線時代
10:41
you don't get to live in the world without cords.
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你仍然無法活在無線的世界
10:43
You have to have mystery and you have to have grace.
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你必須有神祕,和風度
10:47
And there she is -- Grace.
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就像她一樣 - 葛雷斯。
10:49
This is the most glamorous picture, I think, ever.
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我想這將永遠會是史上最魅惑的照片
10:51
Part of the thing is that, in "Rear Window,"
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還有在電影”後窗“的那些鏡頭
10:54
the question is, is she too glamorous to live in his world?
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問題是,她是否魅惑到一個不屬於他的世界?
10:57
And the answer is no, but of course it's really just a movie.
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答案是否定的,當然那只是一部電影
11:00
Here's Hedy Lamarr again.
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Hedy Lamarr 又來了
11:02
And, you know, this kind of head covering is extremely glamorous
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你知道這種頭套非常魅惑
11:05
because, like sunglasses, it conceals and reveals at the same time.
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它就像太陽眼鏡,它隱藏又顯示⋯⋯
11:09
Translucence is glamorous --
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半透明的魅惑
11:11
that's why all these people wear pearls.
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於是人們戴珍珠
11:13
It's why barware is glamorous. Glamour is translucent --
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這就是為什麼酒具如此魅惑 - 魅惑是半透明的,
11:17
not transparent, not opaque.
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不透明,也不完全不透明
11:19
It invites us into the world
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它邀請我們進入
11:21
but it doesn't give us a completely clear picture.
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但我們並不知道它的全貌
11:25
And I think if Grace Kelly is the most glamorous person,
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如果葛雷斯凱莉是最為魅惑的人
11:28
maybe a spiral staircase with glass block may be the most glamorous interior shot,
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或許玻璃製的旋轉樓梯是最魅惑的室內照
11:34
because a spiral staircase is incredibly glamorous.
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因為螺旋樓梯非常魅惑
11:37
It has that sense of going up and away,
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它暗示著走上去,離開
11:41
and yet you never think about how you would really trip
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但你從未想到下來的時候
11:44
if you were -- particularly going down.
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很容易跌倒
11:46
And of course glass block has that sense of translucence.
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當然玻璃有一種透明感
11:49
So, this session's supposed to be about pure pleasure
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這次的會議討論的應該是純粹的享樂
11:53
but glamour's really partly about meaning.
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但魅惑其實有它真正的意義
11:56
All individuals and all cultures have ideals
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所以人和所有文化都有
11:59
that cannot possibly be realized in reality.
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無法實現的理想
12:03
They have contradictions,
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他們有矛盾,
12:05
they uphold principles that are incommensurable with each other --
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它們有些無法互通的原則
12:08
whatever it is -- and yet these ideals give meaning and purpose
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無論如何,但這些理想為我們的文化和個人生活
12:11
to our lives as cultures and as individuals.
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帶來意義和目的
12:14
And the way we deal with that is we displace them --
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我們處理它的方式是
12:18
we put them into a golden world, an imagined world,
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把它放到一個想像的,金色的世界
12:21
an age of heroes, the world to come.
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一個英雄的時代,即將出現的理想世界
12:24
And in the life of an individual, we often associate that with some object.
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我們把這些理想和某些物品做出聯繫
12:28
The white picket fence, the perfect house.
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白色的柵欄,完美的房子。
12:32
The perfect kitchen -- no bills on the counter in the perfect kitchen.
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完美的廚房 - 桌上沒有任何賬單的完美廚房
12:35
You know, you buy that Viking range, this is what your kitchen will look like.
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如果你買下那名牌烤箱,你的廚房就會變成這樣
12:38
The perfect love life -- symbolized by the perfect necklace,
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完美的項鍊象徵完美的愛情
12:41
the perfect diamond ring.
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完美的鑽戒
12:43
The perfect getaway in your perfect car.
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在完美的車裡開往完美假期
12:45
This is an interior design firm that is literally called Utopia.
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這是一個室內設計公司,名字就叫烏托邦
12:49
The perfect office --
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完美的辦公室
12:51
again, no cords, as far as I can tell.
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同樣,沒有電線,
12:53
And certainly, no, it doesn't look a thing like my office.
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當然,我的辦公室看起來根本不是這樣
12:56
I mean, there's no paper on the desk.
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桌上連張紙都沒有
12:58
We want this golden world.
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我們要這個金色的世界
13:00
And some people get rich enough,
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某些人賺夠了錢
13:02
and if they have their ideals -- in a sort of domestic sense,
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如果它們有自己的家居理想的話
13:06
they get to acquire their perfect world.
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他們可以買到這個完美世界
13:08
Dean Koontz built this fabulous home theater, which is --
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Dean Koontz 蓋了這個裝置藝術風格的家庭影院
13:11
I don't think accidentally -- in Art Deco style.
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我認為絕非碰巧
13:15
That symbolizes this sense of being safe and at home.
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象徵著安全和居家
13:18
This is not always good, because what is your perfect world?
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這不一定總是件好事,你的完美世界是怎樣的
13:21
What is your ideal, and also, what has been edited out?
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你的理想世界是怎樣的?在那其中
13:24
Is it something important?
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你是否剪掉了甚麼重要的細節?
13:26
"The Matrix" is a movie that is all about glamour.
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駭客任務是一部有關魅惑的電影
13:29
I could do a whole talk on "The Matrix" and glamour.
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這個演講可以全部拿來討論駭客任務和魅惑
13:31
It was criticized for glamorizing violence,
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但是你知道,它被批評為渲染暴力
13:35
because, look -- sunglasses and those long coats, and, of course,
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你看看那些太陽眼鏡和長大衣
13:40
they could walk up walls and do all these kinds of things
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他們還可以飛簷走壁之類的
13:42
that are impossible in the real world.
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在真實世界中是不可能的
13:44
This is another Margaret Bourke-White photo.
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這是另一張 Margaret Bourke White 的照片
13:46
This is from Soviet Union. Attractive.
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蘇聯。很吸引人。
13:48
I mean, look how happy the people are, and good-looking too.
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看看他們多麼開心,和美麗。
13:52
You know, we're marching toward Utopia.
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我們正邁向烏托邦
13:55
I'm not a fan of PETA, but I think this is a great ad.
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我不是保護動物組織的成員,但我覺得這是個很好的廣告
13:58
Because what they're doing is they're saying,
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因為他們在說的是
14:00
your coat's not so glamorous, what's been edited out is something important.
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你的外套並不這麼魅惑,有些重要的事情被除去了
14:04
But actually, what's even more important
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事實上,有甚麼比思考甚麼被除去了
14:06
than remembering what's been edited out is thinking, are the ideals good?
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更重要,更理想?
14:10
Because glamour can be very totalitarian and deceptive.
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由於魅惑可以非常極權和騙人。
14:14
And it's not just a matter of glamorizing cleaning your floor.
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這不只是美化你的地板
14:17
This is from "Triumph Of The Will" --
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這是“意志的勝利”
14:19
brilliant editing to cut together things.
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把所有東西精緻地消滅掉
14:21
There's a glamour shot.
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有一幅魅惑的照片
14:23
National Socialism is all about glamour.
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國家社會主義總是極為魅惑
14:25
It was a very aesthetic ideology.
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是一種理想美感
14:27
It was all about cleaning up Germany, and the West, and the world,
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有關清理德國,西方和世界
14:30
and ridding it of anything unglamorous.
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和消除任何不魅惑的事物
14:32
So glamour can be dangerous.
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魅惑可能是危險的
14:34
I think glamour has a genuine appeal, has a genuine value.
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魅惑當然是吸引人的,有它的價值
14:37
I'm not against glamour.
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我並不反對魅惑
14:39
But there's a kind of wonder in the stuff that gets edited away in the cords of life.
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但在日常生活中,那些被捨棄的東西裡,有些甚麼重要的事
14:44
And there is both a way to avoid the dangers of glamour
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有一種方法可以避開魅惑的危險
14:48
and a way to broaden your appreciation of it.
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或拓展你對魅惑的讚賞
14:50
And that's to take Isaac Mizrahi's advice
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採用 Issac Mizrahi 的堅毅
14:53
and confront the manipulation of it all,
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對面操控的事實
14:55
and sort of admit that manipulation is something that we enjoy,
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並承認我們喜歡這種操作
15:00
but also enjoy how it happens.
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享受它是如何發生的
15:02
And here's Hedy Lamarr.
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Hedy Lamarr 在此
15:04
She's very glamorous but, you know, she invented spread-spectrum technology.
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她非常迷人,但你同時知道她發明了擴頻技術
15:07
So she's even more glamorous if you know that she really wasn't stupid,
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知道她不傻,讓她更迷人了
15:10
even though she thought she could look stupid.
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儘管她知道她可能看上去很傻
15:12
David Hockney talks about how the appreciation of this
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David Hockney 談到如何欣賞這點
15:16
very glamorous painting is heightened if you think about
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我認為,那些魅惑的畫將更迷人
15:19
the fact that it takes two weeks to paint this splash,
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如果你想到它需要兩週才能完成
15:23
which only took a fraction of a second to happen.
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但其實一切在一秒內都已發生
15:25
There is a book out in the bookstore --
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書店裡有本書
15:28
it's called "Symphony In Steel,"
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叫“鋼的交響曲”
15:30
and it's about the stuff that's hidden under the skin of the Disney Center.
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有關迪士尼中心外表下的一切
15:33
And that has a fascination.
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它很神奇
15:35
It's not necessarily glamorous, but unveiling the glamour has an appeal.
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或許不魅惑,但揭開魅惑的表面也有其魅力
15:38
There's a wonderful book called "Crowns"
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有本好書叫“冠”
15:41
that's all these glamour pictures of black women in their church hats.
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有許多黑人婦女戴著教會帽的迷人照片
15:45
And there's a quote from one of these women, and she talks about,
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其中有個婦女說
15:48
"As a little girl, I'd admire women at church with beautiful hats.
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“在我還是一個小女孩的時候,我就喜歡教堂裡的這些漂亮帽子
15:51
They looked like beautiful dolls, like they'd just stepped out of a magazine.
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他們看上去像美麗的娃娃,像從雜誌中走出來的
15:55
But I also knew how hard they worked all week.
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但我也知道他們努力工作了一週
15:58
Sometimes under those hats there's a lot of joy and a lot of sorrow."
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在這些帽子下有很多很多的快樂和悲傷。
16:02
And, actually, you get more appreciation for glamour
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你更能欣賞這些魅惑
16:05
when you realize what went into creating it.
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當你了解人們花了多少心思創造它
16:08
Thank you.
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謝謝。
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