How I climbed a 3,000-foot vertical cliff -- without ropes | Alex Honnold | TED

10,625,495 views ใƒป 2018-10-29

TED


ืื ื ืœื—ืฅ ืคืขืžื™ื™ื ืขืœ ื”ื›ืชื•ื‘ื™ื•ืช ื‘ืื ื’ืœื™ืช ืœืžื˜ื” ื›ื“ื™ ืœื”ืคืขื™ืœ ืืช ื”ืกืจื˜ื•ืŸ.

ืชืจื’ื•ื: Roni Ravia ืขืจื™ื›ื”: Ido Dekkers
00:13
Hello. I'd like to show you guys 30 seconds of the best day of my life.
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ืฉืœื•ื, ื”ืจืฉื• ืœื™ ืœื”ืฆื™ื’ ื‘ืคื ื™ื›ื 30 ืฉื ื™ื•ืช ืžื”ื™ื•ื ื”ื›ื™ ื˜ื•ื‘ ื‘ื—ื™ื™.
00:50
(Applause)
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(ืžื—ื™ืื•ืช ื›ืคื™ื™ื)
00:56
So that was El Capitan in California's Yosemite National Park,
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ื–ื” ื”ื™ื” ืืœ-ืงืคื™ื˜ืŸ ื‘ืคืืจืง ื”ืœืื•ืžื™ ื™ื•ืกืžื™ื˜ื™ ืฉื‘ืงืœื™ืคื•ืจื ื™ื”,
01:00
and in case you couldn't tell,
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ื•ืื ืœื ืฉืžืชื ืœื‘,
01:02
I was climbing by myself without a rope,
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ื˜ื™ืคืกืชื™ ืœื‘ื“ื™ ืœืœื ื—ื‘ืœ,
01:04
a style of a climbing known as free soloing.
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ืกื’ื ื•ืŸ ื‘ืขื ืฃ ื”ื˜ื™ืคื•ืก ื”ื™ื“ื•ืข ื‘ืฉื ืดืคืจื™-ืกื•ืœื•ืด (ื˜ื™ืคื•ืก ื—ื•ืคืฉื™ ืœืœื ืื‘ื˜ื—ื”).
01:06
That was the culmination of a nearly decade-long dream,
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ื–ื” ื”ื™ื” ืฉื™ืื• ืฉืœ ื—ืœื•ื ื‘ืŸ ืขืฉืจ ืฉื ื™ื,
01:09
and in the video I'm over 2,500 feet off the ground.
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ื•ื‘ืกืจื˜ื•ืŸ ืื ื™ ื ืžืฆื ืœืžืขืœื” ืž-750 ืžื˜ืจื™ื ืžืขืœ ื”ืงืจืงืข.
01:12
Seems scary? Yeah, it is,
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ื ืจืื” ืžืคื—ื™ื“? ืื›ืŸ ื›ืŸ,
01:14
which is why I spent so many years dreaming about soloing El Cap
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ื•ื–ื• ื”ืกื™ื‘ื” ืฉื‘ื’ืœืœื” ื—ืœืžืชื™ ื›ืดื› ื”ืจื‘ื” ืฉื ื™ื ืขืœ ื˜ื™ืคื•ืก ืดืคืจื™ ืกื•ืœื•ืด ืฉืœ ื”ืืœ-ืงืคื™ื˜ืŸ
01:17
and not actually doing it.
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ืื‘ืœ ืœื ืžืžืฉ ืขืฉื™ืชื™ ื–ืืช.
01:18
But on the day that that video was taken,
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ืื‘ืœ ื‘ื™ื•ื ืฉื‘ื• ืฆื•ืœื ื”ืกืจื˜ื•ืŸ,
01:21
it didn't feel scary at all.
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ืœื ืคื—ื“ืชื™ ื›ืœืœ.
01:22
It felt as comfortable and natural as a walk in the park,
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ื—ืฉืชื™ ื˜ื‘ืขื™ ื•ื ื™ื ื•ื— ื›ืžื• ื‘ื˜ื™ื•ืœ ื‘ืคืืจืง,
01:25
which is what most folks were doing in Yosemite that day.
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ื‘ื“ื•ืžื” ืœืจื•ื‘ ื”ืžื‘ืงืจื™ื ืฉื˜ื™ื™ืœื• ื‘ื™ื•ืกืžื™ื˜ื™ ื‘ืื•ืชื• ื™ื•ื.
01:28
Today I'd like to talk about how I was able to feel so comfortable
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ื”ื™ื•ื ื‘ืจืฆื•ื ื™ ืœืชืืจ ืœื›ื ื›ื™ืฆื“ ื”ืฆืœื—ืชื™ ืœื”ืจื’ื™ืฉ ื›ื” ื ื™ื ื•ื—
01:31
and how I overcame my fear.
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ื•ืื™ืš ื”ืชื’ื‘ืจืชื™ ืขืœ ืคื—ื“ื™.
01:32
I'll start with a very brief version of how I became a climber,
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ืืชื—ื™ืœ ื‘ื’ื™ืจืกื” ืชืžืฆื™ืชื™ืช ืฉืœ ืชื—ื™ืœืช ื“ืจื›ื™ ื›ืžื˜ืคืก,
01:35
and then tell the story of my two most significant free solos.
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ื•ืœืื—ืจ ืžื›ืŸ ืืกืคืจ ืขืœ ืฉื ื™ ื˜ื™ืคื•ืกื™ ื”ืดืคืจื™ ืกื•ืœื•ืด ื”ืžืฉืžืขื•ืชื™ื™ื ื‘ื™ื•ืชืจ ืฉืœื™
01:38
They were both successful, which is why I'm here.
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ืฉื ื™ื”ื ื”ื™ื• ืžื•ืฆืœื—ื™ื, ื•ืžืฉื•ื ื›ืš ืื ื™ ื ืžืฆื ืคื”.
01:41
(Laughter)
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(ืฆื—ื•ืง)
01:43
But the first felt largely unsatisfying,
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ืื‘ืœ ื”ื˜ื™ืคื•ืก ื”ืจืืฉื•ืŸ ืขื•ืจืจ ื‘ื™ ืชื—ื•ืฉืช ื—ื•ืกืจ ืกื™ืคื•ืง,
01:47
whereas the second, El Cap, was by far the most fulfilling day of my life.
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ื‘ืขื•ื“ ื”ืฉื ื™, ื”ื˜ื™ืคื•ืก ืขืœ ื”ืืœ-ืงืคื™ื˜ืŸ, ื”ื™ื” ื‘ื‘ื™ืจื•ืจ, ื”ื™ื•ื ื”ื›ื™ ืžืกืคืง ื‘ื—ื™ื™.
01:51
Through these two climbs, you'll see my process for managing fear.
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ื“ืจืš ืฉื ื™ ื˜ื™ืคื•ืกื™ื ืืœื•, ืชื•ื›ืœื• ืœื”ื‘ื—ื™ืŸ ื‘ืชื”ืœื™ืš ื”ื”ืชืžื•ื“ื“ื•ืช ืฉืœื™ ืขื ืคื—ื“.
01:55
So I started climbing in a gym when I was around 10 years old,
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ื”ืชื—ืœืชื™ ืœื˜ืคืก ื‘ืื•ืœื ื˜ื™ืคื•ืก ื›ืฉื”ื™ื™ืชื™ ื‘ืขืจืš ื‘ืŸ ืขืฉืจ,
01:57
which means that my life has been centered on climbing
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ื•ืžืฉืžืขื•ืช ื”ื“ื‘ืจ ื”ื™ื ืฉื—ื™ื™ ืกื‘ื‘ื• ืกื‘ื™ื‘ ืกืคื•ืจื˜ ื”ื˜ื™ืคื•ืก
02:00
for more than 20 years.
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ื‘ืžืฉืš ืœืžืขืœื” ืžืขืฉืจื™ื ืฉื ื™ื.
02:01
After nearly a decade of climbing mostly indoors,
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ืœืื—ืจ ืขืฉื•ืจ ืฉืœ ืขื™ืกื•ืง ื‘ื˜ื™ืคื•ืก, ื‘ืขื™ืงืจ ื‘ืื•ืœืžื•ืช,
02:04
I made the transition to the outdoors and gradually started free soloing.
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ืขืฉื™ืชื™ ืžืขื‘ืจ ืœื˜ื™ืคื•ืก ืžืฆื•ืงื™ื ื•ื‘ื”ื“ืจื’ื” ื”ืชื—ืœืชื™ ืœื˜ืคืก ื‘ืกื’ื ื•ืŸ ืดืคืจื™ ืกื•ืœื•ืด.
02:07
I built up my comfort over time
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ื‘ืžืฉืš ื”ื–ืžืŸ ืฆื‘ืจืชื™ ื‘ื™ื˜ื—ื•ืŸ
02:09
and slowly took on bigger and more challenging walls.
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ื•ืื˜ ืื˜ ื”ืชื—ืœืชื™ ืœื˜ืคืก ืขืœ ืžืฆื•ืงื™ื ื’ื‘ื•ื”ื™ื ื•ืžืืชื’ืจื™ื ื™ื•ืชืจ.
02:11
And there have been many free soloists before me,
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ื”ื™ื• ืžื˜ืคืกื™ ืดืคืจื™ ืกื•ืœื•ืด ืจื‘ื™ื ืœืคื ื™,
02:14
so I had plenty of inspiration to draw from.
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ื›ืš ืฉื”ื™ื” ืœื™ ืžืžื™ ืœืงื‘ืœ ื”ืฉืจืื”,
02:16
But by 2008, I'd repeated most of their previous solos in Yosemite
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ืื‘ืœ ืขื“ 2008, ื›ื‘ืจ ื˜ื™ืคืกืชื™ ืืช ืจื•ื‘ ืžืกืœื•ืœื™ ื”ืดืคืจื™ ืกื•ืœื•ืด ืฉื˜ื•ืคืกื• ื‘ื™ื•ืกืžื™ื˜ื™ ืœืคื ื™
02:19
and was starting to imagine breaking into new terrain.
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ื•ื”ืชื—ืœืชื™ ืœืคื ื˜ื– ืขืœ ืžืกืœื•ืœื™ื ื—ื“ืฉื™ื.
02:21
The obvious first choice was Half Dome,
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ื”ื‘ื—ื™ืจื” ื”ื‘ืจื•ืจื” ื”ืจืืฉื•ื ื” ื”ื™ื™ืชื” ื”ืดื”ืืœืฃ ื“ื•ืืด (ื—ืฆื™ ื›ื™ืคื”),
02:23
an iconic 2,000-foot wall that lords over the east end of the valley.
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ื”ืžืฆื•ืง ื”ืžื™ืชื•ืœื•ื’ื™ ื‘ืื•ืจืš 600 ื”ืžื˜ืจื™ื, ื”ืฉื•ืœื˜ ื‘ื ื•ืฃ ืฉืœ ืžื–ืจื— ืขืžืง ื™ื•ืกืžื™ื˜ื™.
02:27
The problem, though also the allure,
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ื”ื‘ืขื™ื™ื”, ื•ื’ื ื”ืกื™ื‘ื” ืœืคื™ืชื•ื™,
02:29
was that it was too big.
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ื”ื™ื™ืชื” ื’ื•ื‘ื”ื• ื”ืจื‘ ืฉืœ ื”ืžืฆื•ืง.
02:30
I didn't really know how to prepare for a potential free solo.
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ืœื ื™ื“ืขืชื™ ืื™ืš ื‘ื“ื™ื•ืง ืœื”ืชื›ื•ื ืŸ ืœื ื™ืกื™ื•ืŸ ื˜ื™ืคื•ืก ืดืคืจื™ ืกื•ืœื•ืด ืฉื›ื–ื”,
02:33
So I decided to skip the preparations
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ืื– ื”ื—ืœื˜ืชื™ ืœื“ืœื’ ืขืœ ื”ื”ื›ื ื•ืช
02:35
and just go up there and have an adventure.
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ื•ืคืฉื•ื˜ ืœืœื›ืช ื•ืœื”ืชื ืกื•ืช ื‘ื”ืจืคืชืงืื”.
02:38
I figured I would rise to the occasion,
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ื—ืฉื‘ืชื™ ืฉืืชืขืœื” ืขืœ ืขืฆืžื™,
02:40
which, unsurprisingly, was not the best strategy.
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ื•ื–ื•, ื‘ืื•ืคืŸ ืœื ืžืคืชื™ืข, ืœื ื”ื™ื™ืชื” ืืกื˜ืจื˜ื’ื™ื” ื›ืดื› ืžื•ืฆืœื—ืช.
02:43
I did at least climb the route roped up with a friend two days before
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ืœืคื—ื•ืช ื™ืืžืจ ืœื–ื›ื•ืชื™, ืฉื˜ื™ืคืกืชื™ ืืช ื”ืžืกืœื•ืœ ืขื ื—ื‘ืจ ื•ืขื ื—ื‘ืœ ื™ื•ืžื™ื™ื ืœืคื ื™ ื›ืŸ
02:47
just to make sure that I knew roughly where to go
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ืจืง ื›ื“ื™ ืœื•ื•ื“ื ืฉืื ื™ ื™ื•ื“ืข ื‘ืขืจืš ืื™ืš ื”ื•ืœืš ื”ืžืกืœื•ืœ
02:49
and that I could physically do it.
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ื•ืฉืื ื™ ืžืกื•ื’ืœ ืคื™ื–ื™ืช ืœื˜ืคืก ืื•ืชื•.
02:51
But when I came back by myself two days later,
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ืื‘ืœ ื›ืฉื—ื–ืจืชื™ ืœื‘ื“ื™ ื™ื•ืžื™ื™ื ืœืื—ืจ ืžื›ืŸ,
02:53
I decided that I didn't want to go that way.
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ื”ื—ืœื˜ืชื™ ืœื ืœืœื›ืช ื‘ื“ืจืš ื”ืžื•ื›ืจืช.
02:55
I knew that there was a 300-foot variation
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ื™ื“ืขืชื™ ืฉื™ืฉ ื•ืจื™ืืฆื™ื” ื‘ืื•ืจืš 90 ืžื˜ืจื™ื
02:57
that circled around one of the hardest parts of the climb.
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ืฉืขื•ืงืคืช ืืช ืื—ื“ ื”ืžืงื˜ืขื™ื ื”ืงืฉื™ื ื‘ื™ื•ืชืจ ื‘ืžืกืœื•ืœ.
03:00
I suddenly decided to skip the hard part and take the variation,
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ื”ื—ืœื˜ืชื™ ืคืชืื•ื ืœืขืงื•ืฃ ืืช ื”ืžืงื˜ืข ื”ืงืฉื” ื•ืœื‘ื—ื•ืจ ื‘ื•ืจื™ืืฆื™ื”,
03:03
even though I'd never climbed it before,
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ืืฃ ืฉืžืขื•ืœื ืœื ื˜ื™ืคืกืชื™ ื‘ื“ืจืš ื–ื•,
03:05
but I immediately began to doubt myself.
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ื•ืžื™ื“ ื”ืชื—ืœืชื™ ืœืคืงืคืง ื‘ืขืฆืžื™.
03:07
Imagine being by yourself in the dead center of a 2,000-foot face,
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ื“ืžื™ื™ื ื• ืœืขืฆืžื›ื ืžื” ื–ื” ืœื”ื™ื•ืช ืœื‘ื“ ื‘ืืžืฆืข ืžืฆื•ืง ื‘ืื•ืจืš 600 ืžื˜ืจื™ื,
03:10
wondering if you're lost.
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ื•ืœืชื”ื•ืช ืื ื”ืœื›ืชื ืœืื™ื‘ื•ื“.
03:12
(Laughter)
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(ืฆื—ื•ืง)
03:13
Thankfully, it was pretty much the right way
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ืœืžืจื‘ื” ื”ืžื–ืœ, ื–ื• ื”ื™ื™ืชื” ืคื—ื•ืช ืื• ื™ื•ืชืจ ื”ื“ืจืš ื”ื ื›ื•ื ื”
03:16
and I circled back to the route.
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ื•ื”ืฆืœื—ืชื™ ืœื—ื‘ื•ืจ ืžื—ื“ืฉ ืœืžืกืœื•ืœ ื”ืžืงื•ืจื™.
03:18
I was slightly rattled, I was pretty rattled,
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ื”ื™ื™ืชื™ ืงืฆืช ื‘ื”ืœื, ื”ื™ื™ืชื™ ื“ื™ ื‘ื”ืœื,
03:20
but I tried not to let it bother me too much
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ืื‘ืœ ื ื™ืกื™ืชื™ ืœื ืœืชืช ืœื–ื” ืœื”ื˜ืจื™ื“ ืื•ืชื™ ื™ื•ืชืจ ืžื™ื“ื™,
03:23
because I knew that all the hardest climbing was up at the top.
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ื›ื™ ื™ื“ืขืชื™ ืฉื›ืœ ืžืงื˜ืขื™ ื”ื˜ื™ืคื•ืก ื”ืงืฉื™ื ื”ื ืœืงืจืืช ืกื•ืฃ ื”ืžืฆื•ืง.
03:26
I needed to stay composed.
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ื”ื™ื™ืชื™ ืฆืจื™ืš ืœื”ื™ืฉืืจ ืžืจื•ื›ื–.
03:28
It was a beautiful September morning, and as I climbed higher,
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ื”ื™ื” ื–ื” ื‘ื•ืงืจ ื™ืคื”ืคื” ื‘ื—ื•ื“ืฉ ืกืคื˜ืžื‘ืจ, ื•ื›ื›ืœ ืฉื”ืชืงืจื‘ืชื™ ืœืกื•ืฃ ื”ืžืฆื•ืง,
03:30
I could hear the sounds of tourists chatting and laughing on the summit.
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ื™ื›ื•ืœืชื™ ืœืฉืžื•ืข ืืช ืงื•ืœื•ืช ื”ืชื™ื™ืจื™ื ื”ืžื ื”ืœื™ื ืฉื™ื—ื” ื•ืฆื•ื—ืงื™ื ืขืœ ื”ืคืกื’ื”.
03:34
They'd all hiked up the normal trail on the back,
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ื”ื ื˜ื™ืคืกื• ืœืคืกื’ืช ื”ืžืฆื•ืง ื“ืจืš ืžืกืœื•ืœ ื”ื”ืœื™ื›ื”,
03:36
which I was planning on using for my descent.
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ืื•ืชื• ืžืกืœื•ืœ ืฉืชื™ื›ื ื ืชื™ ืœืงื—ืช ื‘ื“ืจื›ื™ ืœืžื˜ื”.
03:38
But between me and the summit lay a blank slab of granite.
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ืื‘ืœ ื‘ื™ื ื™ ืœื‘ื™ืŸ ื”ืคืกื’ื”, ื ื™ืฆื‘ ืžืงื˜ืข ืกืœืข ื’ืจื ื™ื˜ ื—ืœืง ื•ื ื˜ื•ืœ ืื—ื™ื–ื•ืช.
03:41
There were no cracks or edges to hold on to,
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ืœื ื”ื™ื• ืกื“ืงื™ื ืื• ืžื“ืคื•ื ื™ื ืœืื—ื•ื– ื‘ื”ื,
03:43
just small ripples of texture up a slightly less than vertical wall.
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ืจืง ื’ื•ืžื—ื•ืช ืงื˜ื ื•ืช ืขืœ ืžืงื˜ืข ืกืœืข ื›ืžืขื˜ ืื ื›ื™.
03:47
I had to trust my life to the friction between my climbing shoes
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ื”ื™ื” ืขืœื™ ืœื”ืคืงื™ื“ ืืช ื—ื™ื™ ื‘ื™ื“ื™ ื›ื•ื— ื”ื—ื™ื›ื•ืš ืฉื‘ื™ืŸ ื ืขืœื™
03:50
and the smooth granite.
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ืœืกืœืข ื”ื’ืจื ื™ื˜ ื”ื—ืœืง.
03:51
I carefully balanced my way upward,
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ื”ืชืงื“ืžืชื™ ืžืขืœื” ืชื•ืš ื”ืขื‘ืจืช ืžืฉืงืœ ื–ื”ื™ืจื”
03:53
shifting my weight back and forth between the small smears.
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ื•ื“ืจื™ื›ื” ืขืœ ื”ื’ื•ืžื—ื•ืช ื”ืงื˜ื ื•ืช ืฉื‘ืกืœืข.
03:55
But then I reached a foothold that I didn't quite trust.
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ืื‘ืœ ืื– ื”ื’ืขืชื™ ืœื’ื•ืžื—ื” ืฉื”ืชืงืฉืชื™ ืœื”ืชื—ื™ื™ื‘ ืœื“ืจื•ืš ืขืœื™ื”.
03:58
Two days ago, I'd have just stepped right up on it,
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ื™ื•ืžื™ื™ื ืœืคื ื™ ื›ืŸ, ื“ืจื›ืชื™ ืขืœื™ื” ืœืœื ื”ื™ืกื•ืก,
04:01
but that would have been with a rope on.
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ืื‘ืœ ืื– ื”ื™ื” ืœื™ ื—ื‘ืœ ื›ืื‘ื˜ื—ื”.
04:02
Now it felt too small and too slippery.
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ืขื›ืฉื™ื•, ื”ื’ื•ืžื—ื” ื ืจืืชื” ืœื™ ืงื˜ื ื” ื•ื—ืœืงืœืงื” ืžื™ื“ื™.
04:04
I doubted that my foot would stay on if I weighted it.
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ืœื ื”ื™ื™ืชื™ ื‘ื˜ื•ื— ืฉืจื’ืœื™ ืชื™ืฉืืจ ืขืœ ื”ื’ื•ืžื—ื” ื‘ืจื’ืข ืฉืืขื‘ื™ืจ ืขืœื™ื™ื” ืžืฉืงืœ.
04:07
I considered a foot further to the side, which seemed worse.
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ืฉืงืœืชื™ ืœื“ืจื•ืš ืขืœ ื’ื•ืžื—ื” ืื—ืจืช ืจื—ื•ืงื” ื™ื•ืชืจ, ืฉื”ื™ื™ืชื” ื ืจืื™ืช ื’ืจื•ืขื” ืœื ืคื—ื•ืช.
04:10
I switched my feet and tried a foot further out.
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ื”ื—ืœืคืชื™ ืจื’ืœื™ื™ื ื•ื ื™ืกื™ืชื™ ื’ื•ืžื—ื” ืืฃ ื™ื•ืชืจ ืจื—ื•ืงื”.
04:12
It seemed even worse.
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ืฉื ืจืืชื” ืืฃ ื™ื•ืชืจ ื’ืจื•ืขื”.
04:13
I started to panic.
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ื”ืชื—ืœืชื™ ืœื”ื™ื›ื ืก ืœืคืื ื™ืงื”.
04:15
I could hear people laughing on the summit just above me.
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ื™ื›ื•ืœืชื™ ืœืฉืžื•ืข ืื ืฉื™ื ืฆื•ื—ืงื™ื ืขืœ ื”ืคื™ืกื’ื” ืžืขืœื™.
04:17
I wanted to be anywhere but on that slab.
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ืจืฆื™ืชื™ ืœื”ื™ื•ืช ื‘ื›ืœ ืžืงื•ื ืื—ืจ ื•ืจืง ืœื ืขืœ ื”ืžืฆื•ืง.
04:19
My mind was racing in every direction.
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ืžื—ืฉื‘ื•ืชื™ ื”ืชืจื•ืฆืฆื• ืœื›ืœ ื”ื›ื™ื•ื•ื ื™ื.
04:21
I knew what I had to do, but I was too afraid to do it.
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ื™ื“ืขืชื™ ืžื” ืขืœื™ ืœืขืฉื•ืช, ืื‘ืœ ืคื—ื“ืชื™ ืœื‘ืฆืข.
04:24
I just had to stand up on my right foot.
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ื›ืœ ืžื” ืฉื”ื™ื” ืขืœื™ ืœืขืฉื•ืช ื–ื” ืœื“ืจื•ืš ื•ืœื”ืขืžื“ ืขืœ ืจื’ืœื™ ื”ื™ืžื ื™ืช.
04:26
And so after what felt like an eternity, I accepted what I had to do
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ื•ื›ืš, ืื—ืจื™ ืžื” ืฉื”ืจื’ื™ืฉ ืœื™ ื›ื ืฆื—, ื”ืฉืœืžืชื™ ืขื ืžื” ืฉืขืœื™ ืœืขืฉื•ืช
04:30
and I stood up on the right foot,
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ื•ื ืขืžื“ืชื™ ืขืœ ืจื’ืœื™ ื”ื™ืžื ื™ืช,
04:31
and it didn't slip, and so I didn't die,
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ื•ื”ื™ื ืœื ื”ื—ืœื™ืงื”, ื•ืœื ื ืคืœืชื™ ืืœ ืžื•ืชื™,
04:33
and that move marked the end of the hardest climbing.
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ื•ืฆืขื“ ื–ื” ืกื™ืžืœ ืืช ืกื•ืฃ ืžืงื˜ืข ื”ื˜ื™ืคื•ืก ื”ืงืฉื”.
04:36
And so I charged from there towards the summit.
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ื•ืžืฉื ื˜ื™ืคืกืชื™ ื‘ืžื”ืจื” ืœื›ื™ื•ื•ืŸ ื”ืคื™ืกื’ื”.
04:38
And so normally when you summit Half Dome,
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ื‘ื“ืจืš ื›ืœืœ ื›ืฉืžื˜ืคืกื™ื ืืช ื”ืดื”ืืœืฃ ื“ื•ืืด,
04:41
you have a rope and a bunch of climbing gear on you,
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ืขื•ืฉื™ื ื–ืืช ืขื ื—ื‘ืœ, ื•ืืžืฆืขื™ ืื‘ื˜ื—ื” ืื—ืจื™ื,
04:43
and tourists gasp and they flock around you for photos.
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ื•ืชื™ื™ืจื™ื ืžืฉืชืื™ื ื•ืžื‘ืงืฉื™ื ืœื”ืฆื˜ืœื ืื™ืชืš.
04:46
This time I popped over the edge shirtless, panting, jacked.
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ืื‘ืœ ื›ืขืช, ื”ื’ื—ืชื™ ืžืขื‘ืจ ืœืงืฆื” ื”ืžืฆื•ืง, ืœืœื ื—ื•ืœืฆื”, ืžืชื ืฉืฃ, ืขื ืฉืจื™ืจื™ื ืžื ื•ืคื—ื™ื.
04:49
I was amped, but nobody batted an eye.
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ืจืขื“ืชื™ ืžื”ืชืจื’ืฉื•ืช ืื‘ืœ ืœืืฃ ืื—ื“ ืœื ื”ื–ื™ื–.
04:51
(Laughter)
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(ืฆื—ื•ืง)
04:57
I looked like a lost hiker that was too close to the edge.
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ื ืจืืชื™ ื›ืžื• ืžื˜ื™ื™ืœ ืฉื”ืœืš ืœืื™ื‘ื•ื“ ื•ื”ืชืงืจื‘ ื™ื•ืชืจ ืžื™ื“ื™ ืœืงืฆื” ื”ืžืฆื•ืง.
04:59
I was surrounded by people talking on cell phones and having picnics.
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ื”ื•ืงืคืชื™ ื‘ืื ืฉื™ื ืฉื“ื™ื‘ืจื• ื‘ืกืœื•ืœืจื™ ื•ืขืฉื• ืคื™ืงื ื™ืง.
05:04
I felt like I was in a mall.
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ื”ืจื’ืฉืชื™ ื›ืžื• ื‘ืงื ื™ื•ืŸ.
05:06
(Laughter)
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(ืฆื—ื•ืง)
05:08
I took off my tight climbing shoes and started hiking back down,
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ื—ืœืฆืชื™ ืืช ื ืขืœื™ ื”ื˜ื™ืคื•ืก ื”ื”ื“ื•ืงื•ืช ืฉืœื™ ื•ื”ืชื—ืœืชื™ ืœืจื“ืช ืœืžื˜ื” ื‘ืžืกืœื•ืœ ื”ื”ืœื™ื›ื”,
05:11
and that's when people stopped me.
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ื•ืื– ืื ืฉื™ื ื”ื—ืœื• ืœืขืฆื•ืจ ืื•ืชื™.
05:13
"You're hiking barefoot? That's so hard-core."
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ืดืืชื” ื™ื•ืจื“ ื‘ืœื™ ื ืขืœื™ื™ื? ืื™ื–ื” ืงืฉื•ื—ืด
05:15
(Laughter)
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(ืฆื—ื•ืง)
05:22
I didn't bother to explain,
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ืœื ื˜ืจื—ืชื™ ืœื”ืกื‘ื™ืจ,
05:24
but that night in my climbing journal, I duly noted my free solo of Half Dome,
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ืื‘ืœ ื‘ืื•ืชื• ืœื™ืœื” ื‘ื™ื•ืžืŸ ืฉืœื™ ืชื™ืขื“ืชื™ ื›ืจืื•ื™ ืืช ื˜ื™ืคื•ืก ื”ืดืคืจื™ ืกื•ืœื•ืด ืขืœ ื”ืดื”ืืœืฃ ื“ื•ืืด,
05:28
but I included a frowny face and a comment, "Do better?"
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ืื‘ืœ ื”ื•ืกืคืชื™ ืคืจืฆื•ืฃ ื–ื•ืขืฃ ืขื ื”ืขืจื” ืดื˜ืขื•ืŸ ืฉื™ืคื•ืจ?ืด
05:33
I'd succeeded in the solo
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ื”ืฆืœื—ืชื™ ื‘ื˜ื™ืคื•ืก ื”ืดืคืจื™ ืกื•ืœื•ืด
05:34
and it was celebrated as a big first in climbing.
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ื•ื”ืฆืœื—ืชื™ ื”ื•ื›ืชืจื” ื›ืคืจื™ืฆืช ื“ืจืš ื‘ืชื—ื•ื ื”ื˜ื™ืคื•ืก.
05:36
Some friends later made a film about it.
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ืžืื•ื—ืจ ื™ื•ืชืจ, ื—ื‘ืจื™ื ืืฃ ืขืฉื• ืขืœ ื–ื” ืกืจื˜.
05:38
But I was unsatisfied.
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ืื‘ืœ ื”ื™ืชื” ื‘ื™ ืชื—ื•ืฉืช ืื™ ืกื™ืคื•ืง.
05:40
I was disappointed in my performance,
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ื”ื™ื™ืชื™ ืžืื•ื›ื–ื‘ ืžืจืžืช ื”ื‘ื™ืฆื•ืข ืฉืœื™,
05:42
because I knew that I had gotten away with something.
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ื›ื™ ื™ื“ืขืชื™ ืฉื”ืชืžื–ืœ ืžื–ืœื™.
05:44
I didn't want to be a lucky climber. I wanted to be a great climber.
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ืœื ืจืฆื™ืชื™ ืœื”ื™ื•ืช ืžื˜ืคืก ื‘ืจ ืžื–ืœ. ืจืฆื™ืชื™ ืœื”ื™ื•ืช ืžื˜ืคืก ื’ื“ื•ืœ.
05:47
I actually took the next year or so off from free soloing,
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ืœืžืขืฉื” ืœืงื—ืชื™ ืฉื ื” ื—ื•ืคืฉ ืžื˜ื™ืคื•ืกื™ ืดืคืจื™ ืกื•ืœื•ืด,
05:50
because I knew that I shouldn't make a habit of relying on luck.
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ื›ื™ ื™ื“ืขืชื™ ืฉืืกื•ืจ ืœื™ ืœื”ืคื•ืš ื”ืกืชืžื›ื•ืช ืขืœ ืžื–ืœ ืœื”ืจื’ืœ.
05:53
But even though I wasn't soloing very much,
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ืื‘ืœ ืืฃ ืฉืœื ื˜ื™ืคืกืชื™ ืดืคืจื™ ืกื•ืœื•ืด,
05:55
I'd already started to think about El Cap.
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ื”ืชื—ืœืชื™ ืœื—ืฉื•ื‘ ืขืœ ืืœ-ืงืคื™ื˜ืŸ.
05:57
It was always in the back of my mind as the obvious crown jewel of solos.
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ื”ื•ื ืชืžื™ื“ ื”ื™ื” ื‘ืขื•ืžืง ืžื—ืฉื‘ื•ืชื™ ื›ื™ื”ืœื•ื ืฉื‘ื›ืชืจ ื‘ื ื•ื’ืข ืœื˜ื™ืคื•ืก ืดืคืจื™ ืกื•ืœื•ืด.
06:01
It's the most striking wall in the world.
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ื–ื” ื”ืžืฆื•ืง ื”ืžืจืฉื™ื ื‘ื™ื•ืชืจ ื‘ืขื•ืœื.
06:03
Each year, for the next seven years,
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ื‘ืžื”ืœืš ืฉื‘ืข ื”ืฉื ื™ื ื”ื‘ืื•ืช ื›ืœ ืฉื ื” ื—ืฉื‘ืชื™ ืœืขืฆืžื™
06:05
I'd think, "This is the year that I'm going to solo El Cap."
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ืดื–ื• ื”ืฉื ื” ืฉื‘ื” ืื˜ืคืก ืดืคืจื™ ืกื•ืœื•ืด ืืช ืืœ-ืงืคื™ื˜ืŸ.ืด
06:08
And then I would drive into Yosemite, look up at the wall, and think,
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ื•ืื– ื”ื™ื™ืชื™ ืžื’ื™ืข ืœื™ื•ืกืžื™ื˜ื™, ืžืกืชื›ืœ ืขืœ ื”ืžืฆื•ืง ื•ื—ื•ืฉื‘,
06:11
"No frickin' way."
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ืดืื™ืŸ ืฉื•ื ืกื™ื›ื•ื™ืด.
06:13
(Laughter)
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(ืฆื—ื•ืง)
06:15
It's too big and too scary.
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ื–ื” ื’ื“ื•ืœ ืžื™ื“ื™ ื•ืžืคื—ื™ื“ ืžื™ื“ื™.
06:17
But eventually I came to accept that I wanted to test myself against El Cap.
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ืื‘ืœ ื‘ืกื•ืคื• ืฉืœ ื“ื‘ืจ ื”ื‘ื ืชื™ ืฉืื ื™ ืจื•ืฆื” ืœื‘ื—ื•ืŸ ืืช ืขืฆืžื™ ื›ื ื’ื“ ื”ืืœ-ืงืคื™ื˜ืŸ.
06:21
It represented true mastery,
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ื–ื” ืžื™ื™ืฆื’ ืขื‘ื•ืจื™ ืžื™ื•ืžื ื•ืช ื•ืฉืœื™ื˜ื” ื—ืกืจืช ืขื•ืจืจื™ืŸ.
06:23
but I needed it to feel different.
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ืื‘ืœ ื”ืคืขื ืจืฆื™ืชื™ ืœื”ืจื’ื™ืฉ ืื—ืจืช.
06:25
I didn't want to get away with anything or barely squeak by.
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ืœื ืจืฆื™ืชื™ ืฉื™ืชืžื–ืœ ืžื–ืœื™ ื•ืฉืืžืœื˜ ื‘ืขื•ืจ ืฉื™ื ื™.
06:28
This time I wanted to do it right.
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ื”ืคืขื ืจืฆื™ืชื™ ืœืขืฉื•ืช ื–ืืช ื›ืžื• ืฉืฆืจื™ืš.
06:31
The thing that makes El Cap so intimidating
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ืžื” ืฉื”ื•ืคืš ืืช ืืœ-ืงืคื™ื˜ืŸ ืœื›ืดื› ืžืื™ื™ื
06:33
is the sheer scale of the wall.
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ื”ื•ื ื’ื•ื“ืœื• ื”ืขืฆื•ื.
06:35
Most climbers take three to five days
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ืœืจื•ื‘ ื”ืžื˜ืคืกื™ื ื ื“ืจืฉื™ื 3 ืขื“ 5 ื™ืžื™ื
06:36
to ascend the 3,000 feet of vertical granite.
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ืขืœ ืžื ืช ืœื˜ืคืก ืžืฆื•ืง ื’ืจื ื™ื˜ ืื ื›ื™ ื‘ืื•ืจืš 915 ืžื˜ืจื™ื.
06:39
The idea of setting out up a wall of that size
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ื”ืจืขื™ื•ืŸ ืœืฆืืช ืœื˜ืคืก ืขืœ ืงื™ืจ ื‘ื’ื•ื“ืœ ื›ื–ื”
06:41
with nothing but shoes and a chalk bag seemed impossible.
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ืขื ื ืขืœื™ื™ื ื•ืฉืง ืžื’ื ื–ื™ื•ื ื‘ืœื‘ื“ ื ืจืื” ื‘ืœืชื™ ืืคืฉืจื™.
06:45
3,000 feet of climbing represents
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915 ืžื˜ืจื™ื ืฉืœ ื˜ื™ืคื•ืก
06:46
thousands of distinct hand and foot movements,
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ื—ื•ื‘ื™ื ื‘ืชื•ื›ื ืืœืคื™ ืจืฆืคื™ ืชื ื•ืขื•ืช ื™ื“ื™ื™ื ื•ืจื’ืœื™ื™ื,
06:49
which is a lot to remember.
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ืฉื–ื” ื”ืจื‘ื” ืœื–ื›ื•ืจ.
06:50
Many of the moves I knew through sheer repetition.
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ืจื‘ื™ื ืžื”ืฆืขื“ื™ื ื”ื›ืจืชื™ ืžื›ื™ื•ื•ืŸ ืฉื‘ื™ืฆืขืชื™ ืื•ืชื ื‘ืขื‘ืจ.
06:52
I'd climbed El Cap maybe 50 times over the previous decade with a rope.
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ื˜ื™ืคืกืชื™ ืืช ืืœ-ืงืคื™ื˜ืŸ ืขื ื—ื‘ืœ ื›-50 ืคืขืžื™ื ื‘ืขืฉื•ืจ ื”ืื—ืจื•ืŸ.
06:56
But this photo shows my preferred method of rehearsing the moves.
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ืชืžื•ื ื” ื–ื• ืžืจืื” ืืช ื”ื“ืจืš ื”ืžื•ืขื“ืคืช ืขืœื™ ืœืชืจื’ื•ืœ ื”ืฆืขื“ื™ื.
06:59
I'm on the summit,
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ืื ื™ ืขืœ ื”ืคืกื’ื”,
07:00
about to rappel down the face with over a thousand feet of rope
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ืขื•ืžื“ ืœื’ืœื•ืฉ ื‘ืžื•ืจื“ ืฆืœืข ื”ืžืฆื•ืง ืขื ืžืื•ืช ืžื˜ืจื™ื ืฉืœ ื—ื‘ืœ
07:03
to spend the day practicing.
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ื›ื“ื™ ืœื‘ืœื•ืช ืืช ื”ื™ื•ื ื‘ืชืจื’ื•ืœ.
07:05
Once I found sequences that felt secure and repeatable,
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ื‘ืจื’ืข ืฉืžืฆืืชื™ ืจืฆืคื™ ืชื ื•ืขื•ืช ืฉื™ื›ื•ืœืชื™ ืœืกืžื•ืš ืขืœื™ื”ื ื•ืœื—ื–ื•ืจ ืขืœื™ื”ื,
07:07
I had to memorize them.
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ื”ื™ื” ืขืœื™ ืœืฉื ืŸ ืื•ืชื.
07:09
I had to make sure that they were so deeply ingrained within me
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ื”ื™ื™ืชื™ ื—ื™ื™ื‘ ืœื•ื•ื“ื ืฉื”ื ื—ืจื•ื˜ื™ื ื‘ื–ื›ืจื•ื ื™ ื›ืดื› ื—ื–ืง
07:12
that there was no possibility of error.
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ืฉืื™ืŸ ืกื™ื›ื•ื™ ืฉืื•ื›ืœ ืœื‘ืฆืข ื˜ืขื•ืช.
07:13
I didn't want to be wondering if I was going the right way
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ืœื ืจืฆื™ืชื™ ืœืžืฆื•ื ืขืฆืžื™ ืชื•ื”ื” ืื ื–ื• ื”ื“ืจืš ื”ื ื›ื•ื ื”
07:16
or using the best holds.
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ืื• ื”ืื ืื ื™ ืžืฉืชืžืฉ ื‘ืื—ื™ื–ื•ืช ื”ื›ื™ ื˜ื•ื‘ื•ืช.
07:18
I needed everything to feel automatic.
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ื”ื™ื™ืชื™ ืฆืจื™ืš ืœื”ืจื’ื™ืฉ ืฉืื ื™ ืคื•ืขืœ ืขืœ ืื•ื˜ื•ืžื˜.
07:20
Climbing with a rope is a largely physical effort.
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ื˜ื™ืคื•ืก ืขื ื—ื‘ืœ ื”ื•ื ื‘ืขื™ืงืจ ืขื ื™ื™ืŸ ืฉืœ ืžืืžืฅ ืคื™ื–ื™.
07:22
You just have to be strong enough to hold on and make the movements upward.
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ืคืฉื•ื˜ ืฆืจื™ืš ืœื”ื™ื•ืช ื—ื–ืง ืžืกืคื™ืง ื›ื“ื™ ืœื”ืฆืœื™ื— ืœืื—ื•ื– ื‘ืื—ื™ื–ื•ืช ื•ืœื”ืชืงื“ื ืžืขืœื”.
07:26
But free soloing plays out more in the mind.
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ืื‘ืœ ื˜ื™ืคื•ืก ืดืคืจื™ ืกื•ืœื•ืด ื”ื•ื ื™ื•ืชืจ ืขื ื™ื™ืŸ ืžื ื˜ืœื™.
07:28
The physical effort is largely the same.
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ื”ืžืืžืฅ ื”ืคื™ื–ื™ ื”ื•ื ื–ื”ื”.
07:30
Your body is still climbing the same wall.
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ื”ื’ื•ืฃ ืขื“ื™ื™ืŸ ืžื˜ืคืก ืืช ืื•ืชื• ืžืฆื•ืง,
07:32
But staying calm and performing at your best
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ืื‘ืœ ืœื”ื™ืฉืืจ ืจื’ื•ืข ื•ืœืฉืžื•ืจ ืขืœ ืจืžืช ื‘ื™ืฆื•ืข ืื•ืคื˜ื™ืžืœื™ืช
07:34
when you know that any mistake could mean death
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ื›ืฉื™ื•ื“ืขื™ื ืฉื›ืœ ื˜ืขื•ืช ืขืœื•ืœื” ืœื”ืกืชื™ื™ื ื‘ืžื•ื•ืช
07:36
requires a certain kind of mindset.
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ื“ื•ืจืฉ ืกื•ื’ ืžืกื•ื™ื™ื ืฉืœ ื“ืคื•ืก ื—ืฉื™ื‘ื”.
07:38
(Laughter)
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(ืฆื—ื•ืง)
07:41
That's not supposed to be funny, but if it is, it is.
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ื–ื” ืœื ื”ื™ื” ืืžื•ืจ ืœื”ืฆื—ื™ืง, ืื‘ืœ ื–ื” ืื›ืŸ ืžืฆื—ื™ืง.
07:43
(Laughter)
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(ืฆื—ื•ืง)
07:46
I worked to cultivate that mindset through visualization,
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ืขื‘ื“ืชื™ ืขืœ ืคื™ืชื•ื— ื“ืคื•ืก ื—ืฉื™ื‘ื” ืฉื›ื–ื” ื‘ืขื–ืจืช ื•ื™ื–ื•ืืœื™ื–ืฆื™ื”,
07:49
which basically just means imagining the entire experience of soloing the wall.
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ื‘ืžื™ืœื™ื ืื—ืจื•ืช, ืคืฉื•ื˜ ื“ืžื™ื™ื ืชื™ ืืช ืขืฆืžื™ ืžื˜ืคืก ืืช ื”ืžืฆื•ืง ื‘ืกื’ื ื•ืŸ ืดืคืจื™ ืกื•ืœื•ืด.
07:53
Partially, that was to help me remember all the holds,
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ื‘ื—ืœืงื•, ื–ื” ื”ื™ื” ืขืœ ืžื ืช ืœืขื–ื•ืจ ืœื™ ืœื–ื›ื•ืจ ืืช ื›ืœ ื”ืื—ื™ื–ื•ืช,
07:55
but mostly visualization was about feeling the texture
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ืื‘ืœ ื‘ืขื™ืงืจ ื–ื” ื”ื™ื” ื›ื“ื™ ืœื“ืžื™ื™ืŸ ืืช ืชื—ื•ืฉืช ื”ืžืจืงื
07:58
of each hold in my hand
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ืฉืœ ื›ืœ ืื—ื™ื–ื” ื‘ื™ื“ื™,
07:59
and imagining the sensation of my leg reaching out and placing my foot just so.
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ื•ืœื“ืžื™ื™ืŸ ืืช ืชื—ื•ืฉืช ืจื’ืœื™ ื”ื ืžืชื—ืช ื•ืœื•ื—ืฆืช ืขืœ ื”ืื—ื™ื–ื” ื‘ืžื™ื“ื” ื”ื ื›ื•ื ื”.
08:03
I'd imagine it all like a choreographed dance thousands of feet up.
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ื“ืžื™ื™ื ืชื™ ืืช ื–ื” ื›ืžื• ื›ื•ืจื™ืื•ื’ืจืคื™ื™ืช ืจื™ืงื•ื“ ืžืื•ืช ืžื˜ืจื™ื ืžืขืœ ื”ืงืจืงืข.
08:06
The most difficult part of the whole route was called the Boulder Problem.
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ื”ืงื˜ืข ื”ืงืฉื” ื‘ื™ื•ืชืจ ื‘ืžืกืœื•ืœ ืงืจื•ื™ ื‘ืฉื ืดื‘ืขื™ื™ืช ื”ื‘ื•ืœื“ืจืด.
08:10
It was about 2,000 feet off the ground
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ื”ื•ื ืžืฆื•ื™ ื›-600 ืžื˜ืจื™ื ืžืขืœ ื”ืงืจืงืข
08:12
and consisted of the hardest physical moves on the whole route:
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ื•ื—ื•ื‘ื” ื‘ืชื•ื›ื• ืืช ื”ืฆืขื“ื™ื ื”ืคื™ื–ื™ื ื”ืงืฉื™ื ื‘ื™ื•ืชืจ ื‘ื›ืœ ื”ืžืกืœื•ืœ:
08:15
long pulls between poor handholds with very small, slippery feet.
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ืฆืขื“ื™ื ืืจื•ื›ื™ื ื‘ื™ืŸ ืื—ื™ื–ื•ืช ื™ื“ื™ื™ื ืงืฉื•ืช ื•ืื—ื™ื–ื•ืช ืจื’ืœื™ื™ื ืงื˜ื ื•ืช ื•ื—ืœืงืœืงื•ืช.
08:18
This is what I mean by a poor handhold:
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ืœื–ื” ืื ื™ ืžืชื›ื•ื•ืŸ ื›ืฉืื ื™ ืื•ืžืจ ืื—ื™ื–ื•ืช ื™ื“ื™ื™ื ืงืฉื•ืช:
08:20
an edge smaller than the width of a pencil but facing downward
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ืžื“ืคื•ืŸ ื”ืงื˜ืŸ ื™ื•ืชืจ ืžืขื•ื‘ื™ื• ืฉืœ ืขื™ืคืจื•ืŸ ื•ืžื•ืคื ื” ืžื˜ื”
08:23
that I had to press up into with my thumb.
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ืฉื“ืจืฉ ืžืžื ื™ ื”ืคืขืœืช ืœื—ืฅ ื›ืœืคื™ ืžืขืœื” ืขื ื”ืื’ื•ื“ืœ.
08:26
But that wasn't even the hardest part.
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ืื‘ืœ ืืคื™ืœื• ื–ื”, ืœื ื”ื™ื” ื”ืงื˜ืข ื”ื›ื™ ืงืฉื”.
08:28
The crux culminated in a karate kick
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ืจืฆืฃ ื”ืฆืขื“ื™ื ื”ืงืฉื™ื ื”ืกืชื™ื™ื ืขื ื‘ืขื™ื˜ืช ืงืจืื˜ื”
08:29
with my left foot over to the inside of an adjacent corner,
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ืฉืœ ืจื’ืœื™ ื”ืฉืžืืœื™ืช ืœืขื‘ืจ ืงื™ืจ ืคื™ื ืชื™ ืกืžื•ืš,
08:32
a maneuver that required a high degree of precision and flexibility,
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ืฆืขื“ ืฉื“ื•ืจืฉ ืจืžื” ื’ื‘ื•ื”ื” ืฉืœ ื“ื™ื•ืง ื•ื’ืžื™ืฉื•ืช,
08:35
enough so that I'd been doing a nightly stretching routine
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ื›ื–ื• ืฉื’ืจืžื” ืœื™ ืœื‘ืฆืข ืชืจื’ื™ืœื™ ื’ืžื™ืฉื•ืช ื‘ื›ืœ ืขืจื‘
08:38
for a full year ahead of time
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ื‘ืžืฉืš ืฉื ื” ืฉืœืžื”
08:40
to make sure that I could comfortably make the reach with my leg.
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ืจืง ื›ื“ื™ ืœื•ื•ื“ื ืฉืื•ื›ืœ ืœืžืชื•ื— ืžืกืคื™ืง ืืช ืจื’ืœื™.
08:43
As I practiced the moves,
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ืชื•ืš ื›ื“ื™ ืชืจื’ื•ืœ ื”ืฆืขื“ื™ื,
08:44
my visualization turned to the emotional component
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ื”ื•ื™ื–ื•ืืœื™ื–ืฆื™ื” ืฉืœื™ ืคื ืชื” ืœืคืŸ ื”ืจื’ืฉื™
08:46
of a potential solo.
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ืฉืœ ื˜ื™ืคื•ืก ืดืคืจื™ ืกื•ืœื•ืด ืคื•ื˜ื ืฆื™ืืœื™.
08:48
Basically, what if I got up there and it was too scary?
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ื‘ืžื™ืœื™ื ืื—ืจื•ืช, ืžื” ืื ืื’ื™ืข ืœืฆืขื“ ื•ื–ื” ื™ื”ื™ื” ืžืคื—ื™ื“ ืžื™ื“ื™?
08:51
What if I was too tired?
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ืžื” ืื ืื”ื™ื” ืขื™ื™ืฃ ืžื™ื“ื™?
08:52
What if I couldn't quite make the kick?
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ืžื” ืื ืœื ืื•ื›ืœ ืœื‘ืฆืข ืืช ื”ื‘ืขื™ื˜ื”?
08:54
I had to consider every possibility while I was safely on the ground,
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ื”ื™ื™ืชื™ ืฆืจื™ืš ืœืฉืงื•ืœ ื›ืœ ืืคืฉืจื•ืช ื‘ืขื•ื“ื™ ื‘ื˜ื•ื— ืขืœ ื”ืงืจืงืข,
08:57
so that when the time came and I was actually making the moves without a rope,
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ื›ืš ืฉื›ืฉื™ื’ื™ืข ื”ื–ืžืŸ ื•ื™ื”ื™ื” ืขืœื™ ืœื‘ืฆืข ืืช ื”ืฆืขื“ื™ื ื‘ืœื™ ื—ื‘ืœ,
09:01
there was no room for doubt to creep in.
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ืœื ื™ื”ื™ื” ืžืงื•ื ืœืกืคืงื•ืช ืœื”ื’ื™ื— ืžื‘ื™ืŸ ืžื—ืฉื‘ื•ืชื™.
09:03
Doubt is the precursor to fear,
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ืกืคืงื•ืช ืžื‘ืฉืจื•ืช ืขืœ ื”ื’ืขืชื• ืฉืœ ื”ืคื—ื“,
09:04
and I knew that I couldn't experience my perfect moment if I was afraid.
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ื•ื™ื“ืขืชื™ ืฉืœื ืื•ื›ืœ ืœื—ื•ื•ืช ืฉืœืžื•ืช ืื ืืคื—ื“.
09:08
I had to visualize and rehearse enough to remove all doubt.
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ื”ื™ื™ืชื™ ืฆืจื™ืš ืœื“ืžื™ื™ืŸ ื•ืœืฉื ืŸ ื‘ืžื™ื“ื” ื›ื–ื• ืฉืื•ื›ืœ ืœืกืœืง ื›ืœ ืกืคืง.
09:11
But beyond that, I also visualized how it would feel
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ืื‘ืœ ืžืขื‘ืจ ืœื–ื”, ื”ื™ื” ืขืœื™ ืœื“ืžื™ื™ืŸ ืื™ืš ืืจื’ื™ืฉ
09:13
if it never seemed doable.
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ืื ื–ื” ืœื ื™ืจืื” ื‘ืจ-ื‘ื™ืฆื•ืข.
09:15
What if, after so much work, I was afraid to try?
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ืžื” ืื ืื—ืจื™ ื›ืดื› ื”ืจื‘ื” ืฉืขื•ืช ืขื‘ื•ื“ื”, ืื ื™ ืืคื—ื“ ืœื ืกื•ืช?
09:19
What if I was wasting my time
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ืžื” ืื ืื ื™ ืžื‘ื–ื‘ื– ืืช ื–ืžื ื™
09:20
and I would never feel comfortable in such an exposed position?
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ื•ืืฃ ืคืขื ืœื ืื’ื™ืข ืœืžืฆื‘ ืฉื‘ื• ืื ื™ ืžืจื’ื™ืฉ ื ื™ื ื•ื— ืขืœ ืžืงื˜ืข ื›ื” ืชืœื•ืœ ื•ื—ืฉื•ืฃ?
09:24
There were no easy answers,
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ืœื ื”ื™ื• ืชืฉื•ื‘ื•ืช ืงืœื•ืช,
09:25
but El Cap meant enough to me that I would put in the work and find out.
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ืื‘ืœ ืืœ-ืงืคื™ื˜ืŸ ื”ื™ื” ื—ืฉื•ื‘ ืœื™ ืžืกืคื™ืง ื›ื“ื™ ืœื”ืฉืงื™ืข ื‘ืขื‘ื•ื“ื” ื•ืœื’ืœื•ืช ืืช ื”ืชืฉื•ื‘ื”.
09:29
Some of my preparations were more mundane.
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ื—ืœืง ืžื”ื”ื›ื ื•ืช ืฉืœื™ ื”ื™ื• ื™ื•ืชืจ ืฉื’ืจืชื™ื•ืช.
09:31
This is a photo of my friend Conrad Anker
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ื–ื•ื”ื™ ืชืžื•ื ื” ืฉืœ ื—ื‘ืจื™ ืงื•ื ืจืื“ ืื ืงืจ
09:33
climbing up the bottom of El Cap with an empty backpack.
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ืžื˜ืคืก ืืช ืืœ-ืงืคื™ื˜ืŸ ืขื ืชื™ืง ื’ื‘ ืจื™ืง.
09:36
We spent the day climbing together
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ื‘ื™ืœื™ื ื• ืืช ื”ื™ื•ื ื‘ื˜ื™ืคื•ืก
09:38
to a specific crack in the middle of the wall
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ืขืœ ืžื ืช ืœื”ื’ื™ืข ืœืกื“ืง ืกืคืฆื™ืคื™ ื‘ืืžืฆืข ื”ืžืฆื•ืง
09:40
that was choked with loose rocks
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ืฉื‘ืชื•ื›ื• ื”ื™ื• ืชืคื•ืกื•ืช ืžืกืคืจ ืื‘ื ื™ื ื—ื•ืคืฉื™ื•ืช
09:41
that made that section difficult and potentially dangerous,
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ืฉื”ืคื›ื• ืืช ื”ืงื˜ืข ืœืงืฉื” ื•ืžืกื•ื›ืŸ,
09:44
because any missed step might knock a rock to the ground
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ื›ื™ ืฆืขื“ ืœื ืžื›ื•ื•ืŸ ื™ื›ื•ืœ ื”ื™ื” ืœืฉื—ืจืจ ืื‘ืŸ ืœืชื—ืชื™ืช ื”ืžืฆื•ืง
09:47
and kill a passing climber or hiker.
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ื•ืœื”ืจื•ื’ ืžื˜ืคืก ืื• ืžื˜ื™ื™ืœ ืขื•ื‘ืจ ืื•ืจื—.
09:49
So we carefully removed the rocks, loaded them into the pack
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ืื– ื”ืกืจื ื• ืืช ื”ืื‘ื ื™ื ื‘ื–ื”ื™ืจื•ืช ื•ืฉืžื ื• ืื•ืชืŸ ื‘ืชื•ืš ืชื™ืง ื”ื’ื‘
09:52
and rappelled back down.
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ื•ืื– ื’ืœืฉื ื• ืœืžื˜ื”.
09:53
Take a second to imagine how ridiculous it feels
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ืงื—ื• ืจื’ืข ืœื“ืžื™ื™ืŸ, ืขื“ ื›ืžื” ื–ื” ืžืจื’ื™ืฉ ื˜ืคืฉื™
09:55
to climb 1,500 feet up a wall just to fill a backpack full of rocks.
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ืœื˜ืคืก 450 ืžื˜ืจื™ื ืจืง ื‘ื›ื“ื™ ืœืžืœื ืชื™ืง ื‘ืื‘ื ื™ื.
09:58
(Laughter)
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(ืฆื—ื•ืง)ึฟ
10:00
It's never that easy to carry a pack full of rocks around.
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ื–ื” ืืฃ ืคืขื ืœื ืงืœ ืœืกื—ื•ื‘ ืชื™ืง ืžืœื ืื‘ื ื™ื.
10:03
It's even harder on the side of a cliff.
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ื–ื” ืงืฉื” ืืฃ ื™ื•ืชืจ ืœืขืฉื•ืช ื–ืืช ืขืœ ืฆืœืข ืžืฆื•ืง.
10:05
It may have felt silly, but it still had to get done.
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ื–ื” ืื•ืœื™ ื”ืจื’ื™ืฉ ื˜ืคืฉื™, ืื‘ืœ ื–ื” ื”ื™ื” ื—ื™ื™ื‘ ืœื”ืขืฉื•ืช.
10:07
I needed everything to feel perfect
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ื”ื™ื™ืชื™ ืฆืจื™ืš ืฉื”ื›ืœ ื™ื”ื™ื” ืžื•ืฉืœื
10:09
if I was ever going to climb the route without a rope.
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ืื ืขืžื“ืชื™ ืœื˜ืคืก ืืช ื”ืžืกืœื•ืœ ื‘ืœื™ ื—ื‘ืœ.
10:12
After two seasons of working specifically toward a potential free solo of El Cap,
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ืื—ืจื™ ืฉืชื™ ืขื•ื ื•ืช ืฉืœ ืขื‘ื•ื“ื” ืžืžื•ืงื“ืช ืœืฉื ื˜ื™ืคื•ืก ืดืคืจื™ ืกื•ืœื•ืด ืขืœ ื”ืืœ-ืงืคื™ื˜ืŸ,
10:15
I finally finished all my preparations.
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ืกื™ื™ืžืชื™ ื‘ืกื•ืคื• ืฉืœ ื“ื‘ืจ ืืช ื›ืœ ื”ื”ื›ื ื•ืช.
10:17
I knew every handhold and foothold on the whole route,
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ื™ื“ืขืชื™ ื›ืœ ืื—ื™ื–ืช ืจื’ืœ ื•ืื—ื™ื–ืช ื™ื“ ื‘ืžืกืœื•ืœ ื›ื•ืœื•,
10:20
and I knew exactly what to do.
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ื•ื™ื“ืขืชื™ ื‘ื“ื™ื•ืง ืžื” ืขืœื™ ืœืขืฉื•ืช.
10:21
Basically, I was ready.
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ื‘ืžื™ืœื™ื ืื—ืจื•ืช, ื”ื™ื™ืชื™ ืžื•ื›ืŸ.
10:23
It was time to solo El Cap.
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ื”ื’ื™ืข ื”ื–ืžืŸ ืœื˜ื™ืคื•ืก ืดืคืจื™ ืกื•ืœื•ืด ืฉืœ ื”ืืœ-ืงืคื™ื˜ืŸ.
10:25
On June 3, 2017,
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ื‘ืฉืœื•ืฉื” ื‘ื™ื•ื ื™ 2017,
10:27
I woke up early, ate my usual breakfast of muesli and fruit
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ื”ืชืขื•ืจืจืชื™ ืžื•ืงื“ื, ืื›ืœืชื™ ืืช ืืจื•ื—ืช ื”ื‘ื•ืงืจ ื”ืจื’ื™ืœื” ืฉืœื™, ื’ืจื ื•ืœื” ื•ืคื™ืจื•ืช
10:31
and made it to the base of the wall before sunrise.
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ื•ื”ื’ืขืชื™ ืœืชื—ืชื™ืช ื”ืžืฆื•ืง ืœืคื ื™ ื”ื–ืจื™ื—ื”.
10:33
I felt confident as I looked up the wall.
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ื”ืจื’ืฉืชื™ ื‘ื˜ื•ื— ื‘ืขืฆืžื™ ื›ืฉื”ื‘ื˜ืชื™ ืžืขืœื” ืืœ ื”ืžืฆื•ืง.
10:35
I felt even better as I started climbing.
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ื”ืจื’ืฉืชื™ ืขื•ื“ ื™ื•ืชืจ ื˜ื•ื‘ ื›ืฉื”ืชื—ืœืชื™ ืœื˜ืคืก.
10:38
About 500 feet up, I reached a slab
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ืœืื—ืจ ื›-150 ืžื˜ืจื™ื ื”ื’ืขืชื™ ืœืžืงื˜ืข ืกืœืข ื—ื™ื•ื‘ื™
10:40
very similar to the one that had given me so much trouble on Half Dome,
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ืžืื•ื“ ื“ื•ืžื” ืœื–ื” ืฉื’ืจื ืœื™ ื›ืดื› ื”ืจื‘ื” ื‘ืขื™ื•ืช ืขืœ ืดื”ืืœืฃ ื“ื•ืืด,
10:43
but this time was different.
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ืืœื ืฉื”ืคืขื ื–ื” ื”ื™ื” ืฉื•ื ื”.
10:45
I'd scouted every option, including hundreds of feet of wall to either side.
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ื›ื‘ืจ ื‘ื—ื ืชื™ ื›ืœ ืจืฆืฃ ืฆืขื“ื™ื ืืคืฉืจื™, ืขืฉืจื•ืช ืžื˜ืจื™ื ืžื™ืžื™ืŸ ื•ืžืฉืžืืœ.
10:49
I knew exactly what to do and how to do it.
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ื™ื“ืขืชื™ ื‘ื“ื™ื•ืง ืžื” ืขืœื™ ืœืขืฉื•ืช ื•ืื™ืš ืœืขืฉื•ืช ื–ืืช.
10:51
I had no doubts. I just climbed right through.
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ืœื ื”ื™ื• ืœื™ ืกืคืงื•ืช, ืคืฉื•ื˜ ื‘ื™ืฆืขืชื™ ืืช ืจืฆืฃ ืฆืขื“ื™ ื”ื˜ื™ืคื•ืก.
10:54
Even the difficult and strenuous sections passed by with ease.
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ืืคื™ืœื• ื”ืžืงื˜ืขื™ื ื”ืงืฉื™ื ืขื‘ืจื• ื‘ืงืœื•ืช.
10:57
I was perfectly executing my routine.
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ื”ื•ืฆืืชื™ ืœืคื•ืขืœ ืืช ืชื•ื›ื ื™ืชื™ ื‘ืฉืœืžื•ืช.
11:00
I rested for a moment below the Boulder Problem
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ื ื—ืชื™ ืœืจื’ืข ืœืคื ื™ ืดื‘ืขื™ื™ืช ื”ื‘ื•ืœื“ืจืด
11:02
and then climbed it just as I had practiced so many times with the rope on.
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ื•ืื– ื˜ื™ืคืกืชื™ ืื•ืชื” ื‘ื“ื™ื•ืง ื›ืžื• ืฉืชืจื’ืœืชื™ ื›ืดื› ื”ืจื‘ื” ืคืขืžื™ื ื›ืฉืื ื™ ืžืื•ื‘ื˜ื— ืขื ื—ื‘ืœ.
11:06
My foot shot across to the wall on the left without hesitation,
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ืจื’ืœื™ ื ืžืชื—ื” ืœื›ื™ื•ื•ืŸ ื”ืงื™ืจ ื”ืคื™ื ืชื™ ืœืœื ื”ื™ืกื•ืก,
11:09
and I knew that I had done it.
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ื•ื™ื“ืขืชื™ ืฉืขืฉื™ืชื™ ื–ืืช.
11:12
Climbing Half Dome had been a big goal
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ื”ื˜ื™ืคื•ืก ืฉืœ ื”ืดื”ืืœืฃ ื“ื•ืืด ื”ื™ื” ืžื˜ืจื” ื—ืฉื•ื‘ื”
11:14
and I did it,
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ื•ื”ืฉื’ืชื™ ืื•ืชื”,
11:16
but I didn't get what I really wanted.
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ืื‘ืœ ืœื ื”ืฉื’ืชื™ ืืช ืžื” ืฉืจืฆื™ืชื™ ื‘ืืžืช.
11:17
I didn't achieve mastery.
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ืœื ื”ืฉื’ืชื™ ืžื•ืžื—ื™ื•ืช ื•ืฉืœื™ื˜ื” ื—ืกืจืช ืขื•ืจืจื™ืŸ.
11:19
I was hesitant and afraid, and it wasn't the experience that I wanted.
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ื”ื™ืกืกืชื™ ื•ืคื—ื“ืชื™, ื•ื–ื• ืœื ื”ื™ื™ืชื” ื”ื—ื•ื•ื™ื” ืฉืจืฆื™ืชื™.
11:22
But El Cap was different.
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ืื‘ืœ ืืœ-ืงืคื™ื˜ืŸ ื”ื™ื” ืฉื•ื ื”.
11:24
With 600 feet to go, I felt like the mountain was offering me a victory lap.
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ืขื ืขื•ื“ 180 ืžื˜ืจื™ื ืขื“ ืœืคื™ืกื’ื”, ื”ืจื’ืฉืชื™ ื›ืื™ืœื• ื”ื”ืจ ืžืขื ื™ืง ืœื™ ืกื™ื‘ื•ื‘ ื ื™ืฆื—ื•ืŸ.
11:28
I climbed with a smooth precision
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ื˜ื™ืคืกืชื™ ื‘ื“ื™ื•ืง ืื•ืคื˜ื™ืžืœื™
11:30
and enjoyed the sounds of the birds swooping around the cliff.
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ื•ื ื”ื ื™ืชื™ ืžืฆื™ื•ืฅ ื”ืฆื™ืคื•ืจื™ื ื”ื—ื’ื•ืช ืžืขืœ ื”ืžืฆื•ืง.
11:32
It all felt like a celebration.
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ื–ื” ื”ืจื’ื™ืฉ ื›ืžื• ื‘ื—ื’ื™ื’ื”.
11:34
And then I reached the summit
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ื•ืื– ื”ื’ืขืชื™ ืœืคืกื’ื”
11:35
after three hours and 56 minutes of glorious climbing.
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ืื—ืจื™ 3 ืฉืขื•ืช ื•-56 ื“ืงื•ืช ืฉืœ ื˜ื™ืคื•ืก ืžืจื”ื™ื‘.
11:38
It was the climb that I wanted, and it felt like mastery.
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ื–ื” ื”ื™ื” ื”ื˜ื™ืคื•ืก ืœื• ื™ื™ื—ืœืชื™ ื•ื”ืจื’ืฉืชื™ ืฉื”ืฉื’ืชื™ ืžื•ืžื—ื™ื•ืช ื•ืฉืœื™ื˜ื” ื—ืกืจืช ืขื•ืจืจื™ืŸ.
11:41
Thank you.
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ืชื•ื“ื” ืœื›ื.
11:42
(Applause)
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(ืžื—ื™ืื•ืช ื›ืคื™ื™ื)
ืขืœ ืืชืจ ื–ื”

ืืชืจ ื–ื” ื™ืฆื™ื’ ื‘ืคื ื™ื›ื ืกืจื˜ื•ื ื™ YouTube ื”ืžื•ืขื™ืœื™ื ืœืœื™ืžื•ื“ ืื ื’ืœื™ืช. ืชื•ื›ืœื• ืœืจืื•ืช ืฉื™ืขื•ืจื™ ืื ื’ืœื™ืช ื”ืžื•ืขื‘ืจื™ื ืขืœ ื™ื“ื™ ืžื•ืจื™ื ืžื”ืฉื•ืจื” ื”ืจืืฉื•ื ื” ืžืจื—ื‘ื™ ื”ืขื•ืœื. ืœื—ืฅ ืคืขืžื™ื™ื ืขืœ ื”ื›ืชื•ื‘ื™ื•ืช ื‘ืื ื’ืœื™ืช ื”ืžื•ืฆื’ื•ืช ื‘ื›ืœ ื“ืฃ ื•ื™ื“ืื• ื›ื“ื™ ืœื”ืคืขื™ืœ ืืช ื”ืกืจื˜ื•ืŸ ืžืฉื. ื”ื›ืชื•ื‘ื™ื•ืช ื’ื•ืœืœื•ืช ื‘ืกื ื›ืจื•ืŸ ืขื ื”ืคืขืœืช ื”ื•ื•ื™ื“ืื•. ืื ื™ืฉ ืœืš ื”ืขืจื•ืช ืื• ื‘ืงืฉื•ืช, ืื ื ืฆื•ืจ ืื™ืชื ื• ืงืฉืจ ื‘ืืžืฆืขื•ืช ื˜ื•ืคืก ื™ืฆื™ืจืช ืงืฉืจ ื–ื”.

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