Forget shopping. Soon you'll download your new clothes - Danit Peleg

翻译人员: Kuang Jijia 校对人员: Zhimin Lin

In the past few months, I've been traveling for weeks at a time

前几个月，我曾经连续几周都在旅游，

with only one suitcase of clothes.

身边只带一箱子的衣服。

One day, I was invited to an important event,

and I wanted to wear something special and new for it.

我想穿得特别一点、新潮一点，

So I looked through my suitcase and I couldn't find anything to wear.

所以我翻遍了行李箱，却找不到任何合适的衣服。

I was lucky to be at the technology conference on that day,

还好，那天我参加的是科技会议，

and I had access to 3D printers.

有3D打印机供我使用。

So I quickly designed a skirt on my computer,

所以我很快就在电脑上设计了一条裙子，

and I loaded the file on the printer.

将文件上传到打印机上，

It just printed the pieces overnight.

它当晚就把各个部分打印出来了。

The next morning, I just took all the pieces,

第二天我拿着那些布料

assembled them together in my hotel room,

在我的酒店房间里将他们缝合好，

and this is actually the skirt that I'm wearing right now.

今天我穿的正是这条裙子。

(Applause)

（鼓掌）

So it wasn't the first time that I printed clothes.

这不是我第一次打印衣服。

For my senior collection at fashion design school,

我在时尚设计学院高年级设计系列时装时，

I decided to try and 3D print an entire fashion collection from my home.

我决定尝试用3D打印机 在家里把整个系列都打印出来。

The problem was that I barely knew anything about 3D printing,

and I had only nine months to figure out how to print five fashionable looks.

而九个月内我必须掌握打印五种时尚款式的方法。

I always felt most creative when I worked from home.

我在家工作的时候感到最富有创意，

I loved experimenting with new materials,

我很喜欢去尝试新的材料

and I always tried to develop new techniques

和研究新的技术，

to make the most unique textiles for my fashion projects.

让我的时尚产品独一无二。

I loved going to old factories and weird stores

我也很喜欢去一些旧工厂或是奇怪的店铺，

in search of leftovers of strange powders and weird materials,

搜寻一些被他们剩下的奇怪粉末或是特别的材料，

and then bring them home to experiment on.

把它们带回家，进行多种尝试。

As you can probably imagine,

可以想象

my roommates didn't like that at all.

我的室友非常讨厌这一点。

(Laughter)

（笑声）

So I decided to move on to working with big machines,

所以我决定开始使用大型打印机，

ones that didn't fit in my living room.

这种机器体积很大，我的卧室根本装不下。

I love the exact and the custom work I can do

我非常喜欢我在工作中对所有新潮科技 的精准和熟练的运用，

with all kinds of fashion technologies,

like knitting machines and laser cutting and silk printing.

比如缝纫机、激光切割、丝绸印花。

One summer break, I came here to New York for an internship

有一年夏天，我到纽约唐人街的

at a fashion house in Chinatown.

一家时装商店实习。

We worked on two incredible dresses that were 3D printed.

我们用3D打印机制作出两件非常棒的衣服，

They were amazing -- like you can see here.

他们很让人称奇，就如图中所示。

But I had a few issues with them.

但是我对它们也有些不满意，

They were made from hard plastics and that's why they were very breakable.

他们制作材料是很坚硬的塑料，所以很容易被折断。

The models couldn't sit in them,

模特儿穿这种衣服根本无法坐下。

and they even got scratched from the plastics under their arms.

手臂下的塑料甚至被抓坏了。

With 3D printing, the designers had so much freedom

3D打印机使设计者能够非常自如地

to make the dresses look exactly like they wanted,

将他们脑海里想象的衣服制作出来。

but still, they were very dependent on big and expensive industrial printers

但他们却极度依赖于 这些昂贵而巨大的工业级打印机，

that were located in a lab far from their studio.

而它们也通常放在远离他们工作室的实验室里。

Later that year, a friend gave me a 3D printed necklace,

那年下半年，有一个朋友送给我一条3D打印的项链。

printed using a home printer.

是用家用打印机来打印的。

I knew that these printers were much cheaper

我知道这种打印机比我实习时使用的那种

and much more accessible than the ones we used at my internship.

便宜得多而且更容易获得。

So I looked at the necklace,

所以我看着我的项链，

and then I thought, "If I can print a necklace from home,

想着如果我能在家打印项链，

why not print my clothes from home, too?"

那为什么不在家打印衣服呢？

I really liked the idea that I wouldn't have to go to the market

想到我可以不用去市场，

and pick fabrics that someone else chose to sell --

挑选那些其他人售卖的布料我就非常高兴。

I could just design them and print them directly from home.

我能够直接在家里设计并打印衣服。

I found a small makerspace,

我发现了一个小的工作室，

where I learned everything I know about 3D printing.

在那儿我学会了有关3D打印的一切。

Right away, they literally gave me the key to the lab,

没过多久，他们甚至还把实验室的钥匙给我了，

so I could experiment into the night, every night.

所以我得以每天晚上都去那做实验。

The main challenge was to find the right filament for printing clothes with.

我发现最主要的挑战 是找到合适的用于打印的细丝。

So what is a filament?

什么是细丝呢？

Filament is the material you feed the printer with.

细丝就是打印的原料。

And I spent a month or so experimenting with PLA,

我花了一个月的时间用原生树脂做实验。

which is a hard and scratchy, breakable material.

这种材料非常的坚硬、粗糙、易折。

The breakthrough came when I was introduced to Filaflex,

在了解Filaflex之后 我取得了突破性的进展，

which is a new kind of filament.

Filaflex是一种新型的单纤维。

It's strong, yet very flexible.

很硬同时又很有韧性。

And with it, I was able to print the first garment,

我用它打印了我的第一件衣服，

the red jacket that had the word "Liberté" --

一件镶嵌着法语单词"Liberté"——

"freedom" in French --

意思是自由——

embedded into it.

的红色夹克。

I chose this word because I felt so empowered and free

我选择这个词语因为我感到获得了力量与自由，

when I could just design a garment from my home

因为我能在家自己设计一件衣服

and then print it by myself.

并且自己打印出来。

And actually, you can easily download this jacket,

实际上你也可以很方便地下载这件衣服，

and easily change the word to something else.

并且很容易地把上面的单词换成别的，

For example, your name or your sweetheart's name.

比如你的名字或者你爱的人的名字。

(Laughter)

（笑声）

So the printer plates are small,

打印板非常小，

so I had to piece the garment together, just like a puzzle.

所以我不得不把打印的布料拼接起来， 就像玩拼图。

And I wanted to solve another challenge.

还有一项挑战我希望克服。

I wanted to print textiles

我想打印纺织品，

that I would use just like regular fabrics.

就像其他材料一样。

That's when I found an open-source file

后来我在一位设计师的开源文件中

from an architect who designed a pattern that I love.

发现了一个我非常喜欢的款式。

And with it, I was able to print a beautiful textile

于是我能打印出一块非常漂亮的布料，

that I would use just like a regular fabric.

就像普通的纤维一样。

And it actually even looks a little bit like lace.

看起来还有一点像蕾丝。

So I took his file and I modified it, and changed it, played with it --

所以我使用他的文件， 进行修改和编辑，各种摆弄，

many kinds of versions out of it.

设计出了很多的版本。

And I needed to print another 1,500 more hours

一共需要1500多个小时

to complete printing my collection.

才完成我这个系列的打印。

So I brought six printers to my home and just printed 24-7.

所以我买了六台打印机放在家里， 每天24小时、一周7天连续打印。

And this is actually a really slow process,

过程的确很漫长，

but let's remember the Internet was significantly slower 20 years ago,

但是想想20年前， 互联网不也比现在慢很多么。

so 3D printing will also accelerate

所以3D技术也会不断发展，

and in no time you'll be able to print a T-Shirt in your home

很快你也可以在家打印你自己的T恤，

in just a couple of hours, or even minutes.

只花几小时甚至几分钟的时间。

So you guys, you want to see what it looks like?

在座的各位，你们想看看 我打印出来的衣服吗？

Audience: Yeah!

观众：想！

(Applause)

(掌声）

Danit Peleg: Rebecca is wearing one of my five outfits.

蕾贝卡穿的是其中的一件。

Almost everything here she's wearing, I printed from my home.

她身上几乎所有的东西 都是我在家打印出来的。

Even her shoes are printed.

甚至她穿的鞋也是打印的。

Audience: Wow!

观众：哇哦！

Audience: Cool!

观众：太厉害了！

(Applause)

（掌声）

Danit Peleg: Thank you, Rebecca.

谢谢你，蕾贝卡。

(To audience) Thank you, guys.

（对观众），谢谢大家。

So I think in the future, materials will evolve,

我认为以后打印材料也会改进，

and they will look and feel like fabrics we know today,

穿起来、看起来可能和今天我们的布料相似，

like cotton or silk.

比如棉花或丝绸。

Imagine personalized clothes that fit exactly to your measurements.

想象一下定制的完全合身的衣服。

Music was once a very physical thing.

音乐曾经也以实物形式呈现，

You would have to go to the record shop and buy CDs,

那时你必须去唱片店买CD。

but now you can just download the music --

而现在，我们都可以在网上下载音乐，

digital music --

数字音乐，

directly to your phone.

直接到手机上。

Fashion is also a very physical thing.

时尚也是实体的。

And I wonder what our world will look like

我好奇将来衣服也数字化之后，就像这条裙子一样，

when our clothes will be digital, just like this skirt is.

世界会变成什么样。

Thank you so much.

非常感谢大家！

(Applause)

（掌声）

[Thank You]

谢谢

(Applause)

（掌声）