Forget shopping. Soon you'll download your new clothes - Danit Peleg

譯者: Pao YuChen 審譯者: Max Chern

In the past few months, I've been traveling for weeks at a time

在過去幾個月， 我曾經一次旅行好幾個星期

with only one suitcase of clothes.

只帶了一個行李箱的衣服

One day, I was invited to an important event,

有一天，我受邀參加一場重要的活動

and I wanted to wear something special and new for it.

我想穿件特別的、新穎的衣服

So I looked through my suitcase and I couldn't find anything to wear.

我把我行李箱翻了一遍 但是找不到合適的衣服

I was lucky to be at the technology conference on that day,

我慶幸那天參加的是一場科技會議

and I had access to 3D printers.

有機會接觸3D印表機

So I quickly designed a skirt on my computer,

所以我在電腦上迅速地設計了一件裙子

and I loaded the file on the printer.

然後將檔案傳至印表機

It just printed the pieces overnight.

一夜間印出了各部分的布料碎片

The next morning, I just took all the pieces,

隔天早上，我拿所有印好的布料碎片

assembled them together in my hotel room,

在飯店的房間內拼湊起來

and this is actually the skirt that I'm wearing right now.

而這就是我現在穿的這件裙子

(Applause)

(掌聲)

So it wasn't the first time that I printed clothes.

所以這並不是我第一次列印衣服

For my senior collection at fashion design school,

為了我時裝設計學校的高級系列服飾

I decided to try and 3D print an entire fashion collection from my home.

我決定試著用3D列印技術 在家列印整個時尚系列的衣服

The problem was that I barely knew anything about 3D printing,

問題是我對於3D列印技術所知甚少

and I had only nine months to figure out how to print five fashionable looks.

而我只有九個月的時間想辦法 印出五款時尚的樣式

I always felt most creative when I worked from home.

我在家工作時總是靈感豐富

I loved experimenting with new materials,

我非常喜歡嘗試新的材料

and I always tried to develop new techniques

我也常設法研發新的技術

to make the most unique textiles for my fashion projects.

為我的時裝計劃創造出 最獨特的紡織品

I loved going to old factories and weird stores

我喜歡到舊工廠和奇特的商店

in search of leftovers of strange powders and weird materials,

尋找剩餘的奇怪粉末和怪異的材料

and then bring them home to experiment on.

然後帶回家嘗試新的實驗

As you can probably imagine,

你可想而知

my roommates didn't like that at all.

我室友非常討厭如此

(Laughter)

(笑聲)

So I decided to move on to working with big machines,

所以我決定改用大台機器來作業

ones that didn't fit in my living room.

機器大到我的客廳無法放得下

I love the exact and the custom work I can do

我喜歡自己用各種時尚的技術 做精密客製化的產品

with all kinds of fashion technologies,

like knitting machines and laser cutting and silk printing.

像是紡織機、雷射切割機和絲綢印刷機

One summer break, I came here to New York for an internship

在一個暑假，我來到紐約

at a fashion house in Chinatown.

中國城的一間時裝店當實習生

We worked on two incredible dresses that were 3D printed.

我們忙著完成兩件令人 難以置信的衣服用3D列印出來的

They were amazing -- like you can see here.

非常地令人驚艷，如同你所看見的

But I had a few issues with them.

但是我有些問題

They were made from hard plastics and that's why they were very breakable.

它們是用塑膠製成的，所以非常地易碎

The models couldn't sit in them,

模特兒無法穿著坐下來

and they even got scratched from the plastics under their arms.

甚至會被手臂下的塑膠刮傷

With 3D printing, the designers had so much freedom

3D列印的技術讓設計者有更多的自由

to make the dresses look exactly like they wanted,

讓禮服看起來正如 他們想像中的一樣

but still, they were very dependent on big and expensive industrial printers

但是，這需要仰賴 大型且昂貴的工業印表機

that were located in a lab far from their studio.

而它們是在離工作室很遠的實驗室裡

Later that year, a friend gave me a 3D printed necklace,

同一年稍晚時， 朋友給了我一條3D列印的項鍊

printed using a home printer.

是用家用印表機印出來的

I knew that these printers were much cheaper

我知道這種印表機便宜多了

and much more accessible than the ones we used at my internship.

而且比起我實習時用的，更容易取得

So I looked at the necklace,

所以我看了看項鍊

and then I thought, "If I can print a necklace from home,

然後我想：「如果能在家印出一條項鍊

why not print my clothes from home, too?"

我何不也在家印衣服呢？」

I really liked the idea that I wouldn't have to go to the market

我非常喜歡這點子 讓我可以不用到市面上

and pick fabrics that someone else chose to sell --

挑選別人選出來賣的布料

I could just design them and print them directly from home.

我能直接在家設計並列印出來

I found a small makerspace,

我找到一間小工作室

where I learned everything I know about 3D printing.

在那我學習一切關於3D列印技術

Right away, they literally gave me the key to the lab,

馬上，他們給了我實驗室的鑰匙

so I could experiment into the night, every night.

所以我能在晚上進行實驗，每天晚上！

The main challenge was to find the right filament for printing clothes with.

最大的挑戰是要找到合適的 紡織纖維來列印衣服

So what is a filament?

所以什麼是紡織纖維？

Filament is the material you feed the printer with.

紡織纖維就是加到印表機內的原料

And I spent a month or so experimenting with PLA,

而我花了大約一個月的時間， 用聚乳酸做實驗

which is a hard and scratchy, breakable material.

一種硬、且粗糙易碎的原料

The breakthrough came when I was introduced to Filaflex,

在我認識Filaflex之後 有了突破性的進展

which is a new kind of filament.

這是一種全新的紡織纖維

It's strong, yet very flexible.

它具有韌性而且有彈性

And with it, I was able to print the first garment,

有了這之後，我能夠列印第一件服裝

the red jacket that had the word "Liberté" --

一件紅色的外套上面印著「Liberté」

"freedom" in French --

法文的「自由」

embedded into it.

是嵌入在衣服裡的

I chose this word because I felt so empowered and free

我選擇這個字， 是我覺得充滿力量和自由

when I could just design a garment from my home

因為我能夠在家就設計出衣服

and then print it by myself.

而且自己印出來

And actually, you can easily download this jacket,

事實上，你可以很容易地下載這件外套

and easily change the word to something else.

然後輕鬆的改變上面的字

For example, your name or your sweetheart's name.

舉例來說，印上你的名字或你愛人的名字

(Laughter)

(笑聲)

So the printer plates are small,

然而印刷的板子很小

so I had to piece the garment together, just like a puzzle.

我必須一塊塊的拼湊起來，就像拼圖一樣

And I wanted to solve another challenge.

而且我決定解決另一個挑戰

I wanted to print textiles

我要印出紡織品

that I would use just like regular fabrics.

這樣就能像一般的布料一樣使用

That's when I found an open-source file

後來我找到資源開放的檔案

from an architect who designed a pattern that I love.

是一位建築設計師 所設計的圖樣，我非常喜歡

And with it, I was able to print a beautiful textile

有了這個之後， 我就能夠印出漂亮的紡織品

that I would use just like a regular fabric.

這樣我就能像一般布料一樣使用

And it actually even looks a little bit like lace.

而且這看起來甚至有點像蕾絲呢

So I took his file and I modified it, and changed it, played with it --

接著我用他的檔案進行修改、 並改變、巧妙的運用它

many kinds of versions out of it.

做出各式各樣的版本

And I needed to print another 1,500 more hours

我需要再列印至少一千五百個小時

to complete printing my collection.

來完成我的時裝系列

So I brought six printers to my home and just printed 24-7.

所以我帶回六台影印機 放在家24小時運作

And this is actually a really slow process,

而這真的是一個非常緩慢的過程

but let's remember the Internet was significantly slower 20 years ago,

但讓我們想想， 20年前的網路是多麼緩慢

so 3D printing will also accelerate

3D列印肯定會加速起飛

and in no time you'll be able to print a T-Shirt in your home

再過不久，你就能夠 在家印出一件T裇衫了

in just a couple of hours, or even minutes.

只需要幾個小時，甚至幾分鐘

So you guys, you want to see what it looks like?

所以各位，想看看這究竟是什麼樣子嗎？

Audience: Yeah!

觀眾：「想！」

(Applause)

（掌聲）

Danit Peleg: Rebecca is wearing one of my five outfits.

現在，雷貝卡所穿的是我五件作品之一

Almost everything here she's wearing, I printed from my home.

她身上幾乎所有服裝 都是我在家列印出來的

Even her shoes are printed.

甚至連鞋子都是列印的

Audience: Wow!

觀眾：「哇！」

Audience: Cool!

觀眾：「酷！」

(Applause)

（掌聲）

Danit Peleg: Thank you, Rebecca.

謝謝你，雷貝卡

(To audience) Thank you, guys.

（向觀眾）謝謝各位

So I think in the future, materials will evolve,

所以我認為在未來， 各種的材料會有所創新

and they will look and feel like fabrics we know today,

而它們會看起來及感覺起來 和我們現在所知的布料一樣

like cotton or silk.

像是棉或是絲綢

Imagine personalized clothes that fit exactly to your measurements.

想像客製化的衣服，完全吻合你的尺寸

Music was once a very physical thing.

音樂在過去是個很實體的東西

You would have to go to the record shop and buy CDs,

你需要去唱片行購買實體的光碟

but now you can just download the music --

而如今，你可以下載音樂

digital music --

數位音樂

directly to your phone.

直接下載到手機

Fashion is also a very physical thing.

時裝也是非常實體的東西

And I wonder what our world will look like

而我很好奇世界會變什麼樣子

when our clothes will be digital, just like this skirt is.

如果一天我們的 衣服數位化，就像這裙子一樣

Thank you so much.

謝謝

(Applause)

（掌聲）

[Thank You]

謝謝

(Applause)

（掌聲）

翻譯：Pao YuChen