The New Reality of Fashion is Digital | Gala Marija Vrbanic | TED

翻译人员: Jieying You 校对人员: Helen Chang

I often get this question:

经常有人问我

"Why would anyone buy a piece of clothing that doesn't exist?"

为什么会有人买一件不存在的衣服？

And as you can see, it's not that it doesn't exist.

如你所见，这些衣服并非不存在

Digital fashion is real, and it exists in so many virtual universes,

数字时尚是真实的 它存在很多虚拟世界中

ranging from basic social networks

从基本的社交网络 到高度发达的虚拟世界”元宇宙“

to fully developed virtual worlds known as the metaverse,

letting people express themselves in a way not possible before.

让人们以过去不可能的方式来表现自我

I’ve been playing video games since I [can] remember,

从我记事以来一直在玩电子游戏

dressing up my game character.

装扮我的游戏角色

Actually, I enjoyed it more than dressing up myself.

事实上，比起装扮自己 我更喜欢装扮游戏角色

Five years ago, I was running a physical fashion brand.

五年前，我在经营一个实体的时尚品牌

But because of my gaming experience,

但是由于我的游戏经历

I kept thinking:

我一直在思考

“How and why could people wear digital garments?”

大家如何以及为什么可以穿数字服装？

And there was a reason I believed they would.

我相信大家愿意穿是有原因的

In 2016, I did research on “hypebeast culture.”

2016年，我做了关于 “hypebeast文化“ 的研究

You know, those people buying and selling garments

你知道，hypebeast会买和卖一些

that are always sold out.

总是售罄的衣服

As part of this research,

作为研究的一部分

I've joined various Facebook groups where they were gathering.

我加入了hypebeast圈子的各种脸书群

What I noticed was they were usually buying those pieces

我注意到他们通常买那些衣服

just to post a photo of themselves wearing it on their social channels.

只是为了穿着它们拍个照 发到社交媒体上

And later on, they would resell it.

之后，他们就会把衣服转卖

So they didn't need or want the actual garment.

所以他们并不需要真实的服饰

They wanted its image, and that image was being used online.

他们需要的是 能够发到社交媒体上的影像

And it made sense to me,

而这对我来说非常有意义

because, like most of my generation,

因为，像我们这一代

they had their friends, peers, role models in the virtual space,

他们在虚拟网络中 有朋友、同龄人和榜样

and this is where we care to express ourselves.

而且在虚拟空间中 我们在意如何表达自己

This is when I started experimenting

这时我开始尝试

with what today we know as digital fashion.

我们今天所知道的数字时装

Now I run the world's first direct-to-consumer digital fashion brand

现在，我经营着全球第一个 直接面向消费者的数字时装品牌

and a fashion tech house.

与时装科技屋

We officially started last year,

去年我们正式开业

and our growth has been unimaginable from a traditional fashion perspective.

从传统时尚的角度来看 我们的成长是难以想象的

Apart from doing our own designs,

我们除了做自己的设计外

we regularly collaborate with the biggest names from the industry.

我们经常与业内最知名的公司合作

With Carolina Herrera, we collaborated on a runway dress

我们与卡罗琳娜·埃莱拉公司 合作了一款时尚秀礼服

and developed an app

并且开发了一个软件

where you can wear the dress on your phone using augmented reality.

软件中你可以用手机的AR技术 穿上这款裙子

And with Jean Paul Gaultier,

还有我们与让·保罗·高缇耶也有合作

we collaborated on a piece that was part of their couture collection.

我们合作了一款 高缇耶高级时装系列的服饰

We even have our flagship store in the Decentraland,

我们甚至在Decentraland里有旗舰店

a metaverse owned and created by its users.

这是一个由用户拥有和创造的虚拟世界

And we are not the only ones.

而且我们不是唯一的

For example, on Demat, an NFT marketplace,

例如，在Demat这非同质化代币的市场

fashion brands are selling authenticated digital fashion items

时尚品牌正在售卖经过认证的数字时装

that are usually sold out as soon as they are released.

这些商品通常一上架就迅速卖光

And as it was for me,

而且对我来说

the games are becoming a gateway to digital fashion for many.

这些游戏正在成为 许多人通往数字时装的大门

The biggest names in the luxury segment are eagerly trying to enter this space.

最知名的奢侈品大牌 也正渴望进入数字时装领域

Balenciaga has collaborated with Fortnite,

巴黎世家已经和堡垒之夜合作

and Gucci bag was sold inside Roblox for more than its worth in real life.

而罗布乐思里卖出的古驰包 远超出了它在现实中的价值

Fortnite itself has sold more than two billion worth of skins and game extras

堡垒之夜已售出价值 超过20亿的角色皮肤

for in-game character dressing.

还有游戏角色装扮的附加品

But it's a misconception that creating digital fashion is quick and easy.

但是，人们误以为创作数字时装 是快速且容易的

We often have to play by the same rules as in real-life physical fashion.

我们经常按照现实生活中的 实体时尚行业的规则来运行

Think back to a time when there were no computers

回想以前没有电脑的时候

and people were making posters by hand.

大家亲手制作海报

When the software like Adobe Photoshop finally arrived,

当像Photoshop这样的软件出现时

they thought making posters is going to be so much quicker and easier.

人们就认为做海报变得 更加快速和容易了

But obviously that wasn't true

但显然这并不正确

because technology just replaced outdated principles with new possibilities.

因为技术只是用新的可能取代旧的原则

So instead of doing most of the development in the physical space,

因此，与其在实体世界发展过多

we do it in front of our screens.

我们选择在荧幕前发展

The process is the same, just the tools are different.

这个过程是一样的，只是工具不同

And in the end,

最后

everything falls back to a complexity of a piece or a concept.

每样东西变成了复杂的作品或概念

For example,

例如

there's a huge difference in creating a basic T-shirt

创作基本的T恤

or a couture-like dress, regardless of the medium.

与定制高级连衣裙非常不同

不论用什么媒介

And the digital realm somehow forces you to go into that exploratory direction.

而且数字领域以某种方式 迫使你去探索更多

Because do you even need a physical T-shirt in a virtual space?

因为在虚拟空间 你还需要一件实体的T恤吗？

With digital fashion, you can experience fashion in its purest form,

依靠数字时装，你能够 以最纯粹的方式进行体验服饰

devoid of functional barriers.

没有各种功能阻碍

You don't need your sleeves there.

在那里，你不需要袖套

You don't even need your hands.

甚至不需要用手

Digital fashion is not an alternative but an evolutionary step.

数字时装并不是替代品，而是发展的一步

And we are currently at the beginning of this new era.

而我们此时正在这个新时代的开端

An era where digital garments could become an added layer to our reality,

在这个新时代 数字服装变成了现实的补充

where you will be able to instantly choose to whom you want to present yourself

在那里，你可以选择 向你希望的人展现自己

wearing multiple different outfits at the same time

同时穿着各种不同的衣服

and using most advanced technology, like AR or VR for example.

用最先进的科技，如AR或者VR技术

And not only does it allow for self-expression

数字时装不仅能够展现自己

in totally different contexts,

在完全不同的环境中

but digital fashion can be zero-waste and inclusive, available to users,

而且数字时装可以做到零污染 而且包容性很强、容易买到

regardless of their gender, size or race.

不管用户的性别、身材、人种如何

I come from Croatia,

我来自克罗地亚

a country that is nowhere on the fashion map,

克罗地亚并不在时尚的版图上

yet my company is considered one of the pioneers of this field.

然而我的公司是 公认的数字时装领域的先锋

When we started, we were among the few doing it.

一开始，我们是 从事该行业的少数人之一

And since then,

从那时起

a whole new evolving market has grown around it.

一个全新的、进步的市场 就围绕着数字时装成长起来

Digital fashion market is going to be huge.

数字服装的市场将会变得庞大

But from my experience, no one knows how far it could go.

但就我的经验来说 没有人知道数字时装能走多远

It's fairly simple.

它是十分简单的

Technology usually grows exponentially, and so will our virtual presence.

技术通常呈指数形式发展 虚拟空间也是如此

And someone has to dress these people.

所以总得有人为虚拟世界的人进行装扮

Thank you.

谢谢