The New Reality of Fashion is Digital | Gala Marija Vrbanic | TED

Translator: Tasya Rahmawati Reviewer: Prameswari Rahmanu

I often get this question:

Saya sering dengar pertanyaan:

"Why would anyone buy a piece of clothing that doesn't exist?"

“Mengapa orang mau beli pakaian yang tidak nyata adanya?”

And as you can see, it's not that it doesn't exist.

Seperti yang Anda tahu, ini bukan soal tidak nyata adanya.

Digital fashion is real, and it exists in so many virtual universes,

Fesyen digital itu nyata dan hadir di banyak dunia virtual

ranging from basic social networks

mulai dari jaringan sosial dasar

to fully developed virtual worlds known as the metaverse,

hingga dunia virtual seutuhnya yang disebut metaverse,

letting people express themselves in a way not possible before.

membiarkan orang berekspresi dengan cara yang mustahil sebelumnya.

I’ve been playing video games since I [can] remember,

Saya bermain game video dan teringat saat

dressing up my game character.

mendandani karakter dalam game saya.

Actually, I enjoyed it more than dressing up myself.

Saya lebih suka itu daripada berdandan sendiri.

Five years ago, I was running a physical fashion brand.

Lima tahun lalu, saya memiliki merek fesyen secara fisik.

But because of my gaming experience,

Tapi karena pengalaman gaming,

I kept thinking:

saya berpikir:

“How and why could people wear digital garments?”

“Mengapa orang-orang memakai garmen digital?”

And there was a reason I believed they would.

Lalu ada alasan yang saya yakini.

In 2016, I did research on “hypebeast culture.”

Di 2016, saya meneliti tentang “kultur hypebeast”.

You know, those people buying and selling garments

Yakni orang-orang melakukan jual beli garmen

that are always sold out.

yang selalu terjual habis.

As part of this research,

Bagian penelitian ini,

I've joined various Facebook groups where they were gathering.

saya ikut beberapa grup Facebook tempat mereka berkumpul.

What I noticed was they were usually buying those pieces

Yang saya pahami adalah mereka biasa beli baju

just to post a photo of themselves wearing it on their social channels.

untuk keperluan foto yang diunggah di media sosial.

And later on, they would resell it.

Lalu, bajunya akan dijual lagi.

So they didn't need or want the actual garment.

Mereka tidak butuh garmen aktual.

They wanted its image, and that image was being used online.

Mereka hanya butuh foto yang dipajang di dunia maya.

And it made sense to me,

Tampak masuk akal bagiku

because, like most of my generation,

karena kebanyakan dari generasi saya,

they had their friends, peers, role models in the virtual space,

mereka punya teman, pasangan, dan idola di dunia maya,

and this is where we care to express ourselves.

dan itulah tempat untuk berekspresi.

This is when I started experimenting

Ini awal mula eksperimen saya

with what today we know as digital fashion.

dengan fesyen digital yang kini populer.

Now I run the world's first direct-to-consumer digital fashion brand

Kini saya punya merek fesyen digital direct-to-consumer pertama dunia

and a fashion tech house.

dan rumah teknologi fesyen.

We officially started last year,

Kami resmi mulai tahun kemarin,

and our growth has been unimaginable from a traditional fashion perspective.

dan berkembang pesat dari fesyen tradisional.

Apart from doing our own designs,

Terlepas dari mendesain sendiri,

we regularly collaborate with the biggest names from the industry.

kami berkolaborasi dengan para nama besar di industri.

With Carolina Herrera, we collaborated on a runway dress

Dengan Carolina Herrera, berkolaborasi dalam gaun runway,

and developed an app

mengembangkan aplikasi

where you can wear the dress on your phone using augmented reality.

di mana Anda bisa memakai gaun dengan teknologi AR.

And with Jean Paul Gaultier,

Dengan Jean Paul Gaultier,

we collaborated on a piece that was part of their couture collection.

berkolaborasi dalam pakaian yang jadi bagian koleksi couture mereka.

We even have our flagship store in the Decentraland,

Kami punya toko unggulan di Decentraland,

a metaverse owned and created by its users.

metaverse yang dimiliki dan dibuat oleh penggunanya sendiri.

And we are not the only ones.

Kami bukan satu-satunya.

For example, on Demat, an NFT marketplace,

Ada Demat di marketplace NFT,

fashion brands are selling authenticated digital fashion items

merek fesyen yang menjual item fesyen digital autentik

that are usually sold out as soon as they are released.

yang langsung habis terjual setelah dirilis.

And as it was for me,

Bagi saya,

the games are becoming a gateway to digital fashion for many.

game jadi gerbang ke dunia fesyen digital.

The biggest names in the luxury segment are eagerly trying to enter this space.

Nama-nama besar kelas atas mencoba masuk ke dunia ini.

Balenciaga has collaborated with Fortnite,

Balenciaga berkolaborasi dengan Fortnite.

and Gucci bag was sold inside Roblox for more than its worth in real life.

Tas Gucci dijual di Roblox dan lebih laris daripada di dunia nyata.

Fortnite itself has sold more than two billion worth of skins and game extras

Fortnite menjual lebih dari 2 miliar model baju dan aksesori

for in-game character dressing.

untuk karakter dalam game-nya.

But it's a misconception that creating digital fashion is quick and easy.

Ada miskonsepsi tentang fesyen digital yang dianggap mudah.

We often have to play by the same rules as in real-life physical fashion.

Kami melakukan cara yang sama dengan fesyen fisik di dunia nyata.

Think back to a time when there were no computers

Bayangkan masa belum ada komputer,

and people were making posters by hand.

orang-orang membuat poster dengan tangan.

When the software like Adobe Photoshop finally arrived,

Saat Adobe Photoshop hadir,

they thought making posters is going to be so much quicker and easier.

mereka pikir membuat poster jadi lebih cepat dan mudah.

But obviously that wasn't true

Itu salah besar

because technology just replaced outdated principles with new possibilities.

karena teknologi hanya menggantikan prinsip lama dengan peluang baru.

So instead of doing most of the development in the physical space,

Daripada berkembang di dunia nyata,

we do it in front of our screens.

kami berkembang lewat layar dunia maya.

The process is the same, just the tools are different.

Prosesnya sama, alatnya yang beda.

And in the end,

Akhirnya

everything falls back to a complexity of a piece or a concept.

semua kembali ke kompleksitas dari sebuah konsep.

For example,

Contohnya

there's a huge difference in creating a basic T-shirt

ada perbedaan besar dalam membuat T-shirt biasa

or a couture-like dress, regardless of the medium.

dengan gaun couture, di samping medianya.

And the digital realm somehow forces you to go into that exploratory direction.

Dunia digital memaksa Anda masuk ke arah eksplorasi.

Because do you even need a physical T-shirt in a virtual space?

Memangnya Anda butuh T-shirt di dunia maya?

With digital fashion, you can experience fashion in its purest form,

Dengan fesyen digital, Anda mendapat fesyen dalam bentuk murninya,

devoid of functional barriers.

tanpa mempermasalahkan fungsinya.

You don't need your sleeves there.

Anda tak butuh baju berlengan.

You don't even need your hands.

Bahkan tak butuh tangan asli.

Digital fashion is not an alternative but an evolutionary step.

Fesyen digital bukan alternatif tetapi langkah evolusioner.

And we are currently at the beginning of this new era.

Kini kita berada di awal era baru ini.

An era where digital garments could become an added layer to our reality,

Era di mana garmen digital dapat jadi lapisan baru pada realita kita,

where you will be able to instantly choose to whom you want to present yourself

Anda bisa mudah memilih kepada siapa ingin menunjukkan diri

wearing multiple different outfits at the same time

memakai banyak gaya baju berbeda dalam satu waktu

and using most advanced technology, like AR or VR for example.

dan menggunakan teknologi mutakhir, seperti AR atau VR misalnya.

And not only does it allow for self-expression

Tidak hanya untuk ekspresi diri

in totally different contexts,

dalam konteks berbeda,

but digital fashion can be zero-waste and inclusive, available to users,

tapi fesyen digital dapat jadi inklusif dan zero-waste untuk pengguna

regardless of their gender, size or race.

tanpa memandang gender, ukuran, dan ras.

I come from Croatia,

Saya dari Kroasia,

a country that is nowhere on the fashion map,

yang tak ada sangkut pautnya dengan fesyen,

yet my company is considered one of the pioneers of this field.

tapi perusahaan saya jadi salah satu pelopornya.

When we started, we were among the few doing it.

Saat awal, kami bagian dari sedikit perusahaan fesyen.

And since then,

Sejak itu,

a whole new evolving market has grown around it.

pasar baru yang bertumbuh telah berkembang.

Digital fashion market is going to be huge.

Pasar fesyen digital mulai dikenal.

But from my experience, no one knows how far it could go.

Dari pengalaman saya, tidak ada yang tahu bagaimana ke depannya.

It's fairly simple.

Sederhananya.

Technology usually grows exponentially, and so will our virtual presence.

Teknologi berkembang secara eksponen, begitu juga presensi virtual.

And someone has to dress these people.

Seseorang perlu menggayakan ini.

Thank you.

Terima kasih.