The New Reality of Fashion is Digital | Gala Marija Vrbanic | TED

41,248 views ・ 2022-03-08

TED


Please double-click on the English subtitles below to play the video.

Translator: Tracy Hui Reviewer: Thomas Tam
00:04
I often get this question:
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我成日被人問:
00:05
"Why would anyone buy a piece of clothing that doesn't exist?"
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「點解有人會買唔存在嘅衫?」
00:09
And as you can see, it's not that it doesn't exist.
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啲衫係唔係存在 你都睇到㗎﹗
00:12
Digital fashion is real, and it exists in so many virtual universes,
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數位時裝係真實嘅 存在喺好多虛擬世界度
00:16
ranging from basic social networks
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由基本社交網絡
00:18
to fully developed virtual worlds known as the metaverse,
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到已發展俗稱元宇宙嘅虛擬世界
00:22
letting people express themselves in a way not possible before.
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俾人喺以往唔存在嘅形式嚟表現自己
00:26
I’ve been playing video games since I [can] remember,
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記憶所及 一直都玩緊電腦遊戲
00:28
dressing up my game character.
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係幫啲遊戲角色着衫
00:30
Actually, I enjoyed it more than dressing up myself.
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其實幫佢哋着衫 仲享受過幫自己着衫
00:34
Five years ago, I was running a physical fashion brand.
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五年前,我有個實體時裝品牌
00:37
But because of my gaming experience,
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但係打機嘅經驗使我
00:39
I kept thinking:
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不斷喺度諗:
00:41
“How and why could people wear digital garments?”
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「點解啲人需要 同點樣着呢啲衫?」
00:43
And there was a reason I believed they would.
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我相信係有個原因嘅
00:46
In 2016, I did research on “hypebeast culture.”
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喺 2016 年我研究過 「時尚文化」
00:49
You know, those people buying and selling garments
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嗰啲買賣衫嘅人 成日都賣晒啲衫
00:52
that are always sold out.
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00:53
As part of this research,
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喺呢個研究嘅部分
00:55
I've joined various Facebook groups where they were gathering.
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我加入有人群聚集嘅 Facebook 群組
00:58
What I noticed was they were usually buying those pieces
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留意到佢哋通常買啲衫
01:00
just to post a photo of themselves wearing it on their social channels.
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淨係為影幾張相 放喺社交平台就算
01:04
And later on, they would resell it.
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然後佢哋就賣返出去
01:06
So they didn't need or want the actual garment.
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佢哋係唔想擁有、唔再需要啲衫
01:09
They wanted its image, and that image was being used online.
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只係想喺網上穿起件衫嚟表現吓自己
01:13
And it made sense to me,
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噉做係對我好有意義
01:15
because, like most of my generation,
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由於呢個年代嘅人
01:17
they had their friends, peers, role models in the virtual space,
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喺虛擬世界入面 有朋友、同輩、仲有偶像
01:21
and this is where we care to express ourselves.
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我哋想喺嗰度表現自己
01:23
This is when I started experimenting
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就噉我開始嘗試
01:25
with what today we know as digital fashion.
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依家嘅數位時裝喇﹗
01:28
Now I run the world's first direct-to-consumer digital fashion brand
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仲經營首個直接面向客戶 數位時裝品牌
01:31
and a fashion tech house.
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同間時裝科技公司
01:33
We officially started last year,
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我哋上年先正式成立
01:35
and our growth has been unimaginable from a traditional fashion perspective.
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啲增長完全套用唔到 喺傳統時裝模式
01:39
Apart from doing our own designs,
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我哋除咗自己設計
01:41
we regularly collaborate with the biggest names from the industry.
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仲定期同最知名嘅時裝品牌合作
01:44
With Carolina Herrera, we collaborated on a runway dress
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同 Carolina Herrera 做過一條 catwalk 時裝裙
01:47
and developed an app
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仲研發咗個 app
01:49
where you can wear the dress on your phone using augmented reality.
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喺電話可用增強現實模式着呢條裙
01:52
And with Jean Paul Gaultier,
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另外同 Jean Paul Gaultier
01:53
we collaborated on a piece that was part of their couture collection.
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做咗屬於佢哋高級時裝嘅作品
01:57
We even have our flagship store in the Decentraland,
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我哋有間旗艦店喺 Decentraland :
01:59
a metaverse owned and created by its users.
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用家擁有嘅創作元宇宙
唔淨只得我哋
02:03
And we are not the only ones.
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02:04
For example, on Demat, an NFT marketplace,
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例如喺 Demat 非同質化代幣市場
02:07
fashion brands are selling authenticated digital fashion items
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有賣緊認證嘅數位時裝產品
02:11
that are usually sold out as soon as they are released.
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佢哋通常一發佈就好快賣晒
02:14
And as it was for me,
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對我同對好多人
02:15
the games are becoming a gateway to digital fashion for many.
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遊戲係通往數位時裝嘅途徑
02:18
The biggest names in the luxury segment are eagerly trying to enter this space.
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名牌奢侈品正係 急切試圖進入呢個市場
02:23
Balenciaga has collaborated with Fortnite,
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Balenciaga 同 Fortnite 合作過
02:25
and Gucci bag was sold inside Roblox for more than its worth in real life.
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曾經喺 Roblox 賣出比現實更值錢嘅 Gucci 袋
02:29
Fortnite itself has sold more than two billion worth of skins and game extras
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Fortnite 賣出超過 20 億美元皮膚同遊戲獎勵內容
02:34
for in-game character dressing.
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用喺遊戲角色嘅裝扮
但認為創造數位時裝又快又容易 就係一種錯覺
02:36
But it's a misconception that creating digital fashion is quick and easy.
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02:40
We often have to play by the same rules as in real-life physical fashion.
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我哋其實成日都要跟返實體時裝嘅規矩
02:44
Think back to a time when there were no computers
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試想下冇電腦嘅年代
02:46
and people were making posters by hand.
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用人手整出啲海報
02:48
When the software like Adobe Photoshop finally arrived,
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當類似 Adobe Photoshop 軟件面世後
02:51
they thought making posters is going to be so much quicker and easier.
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佢哋覺得整張海報 會又快又容易
02:55
But obviously that wasn't true
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但係好明顯係唔啱啦﹗
02:57
because technology just replaced outdated principles with new possibilities.
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由於科技係提供新嘅可能性 同取代過時嘅準則
03:02
So instead of doing most of the development in the physical space,
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仲代替咗喺實體空間嘅大部分開發
03:05
we do it in front of our screens.
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我哋揀咗用電腦做
03:07
The process is the same, just the tools are different.
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過程都係一樣 只係用唔同嘅工具
03:11
And in the end,
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到最後
03:12
everything falls back to a complexity of a piece or a concept.
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所有嘢都去返錯綜複雜 一個拼合或者概念
03:15
For example,
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例如
03:16
there's a huge difference in creating a basic T-shirt
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唔理用咩方法 整件基本 T 恤
03:19
or a couture-like dress, regardless of the medium.
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同高級連身裙 都存在好大分別
03:22
And the digital realm somehow forces you to go into that exploratory direction.
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數位時裝某程度迫使你探索更多
03:27
Because do you even need a physical T-shirt in a virtual space?
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你喺虛擬空間度 仲需要實體 T 恤咩?
你可借助數位時裝 用最純粹形式體驗時裝
03:32
With digital fashion, you can experience fashion in its purest form,
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03:35
devoid of functional barriers.
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冇任何功能性嘅障礙
03:37
You don't need your sleeves there.
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你唔需要兩隻袖
03:39
You don't even need your hands.
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甚至唔需要你啲手
03:41
Digital fashion is not an alternative but an evolutionary step.
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數位時裝唔係代替品 係革命性嘅進步
03:44
And we are currently at the beginning of this new era.
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我哋依家開始緊嘅新時代
03:47
An era where digital garments could become an added layer to our reality,
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數位服裝將會增添咗 現實服裝嘅層次
03:51
where you will be able to instantly choose to whom you want to present yourself
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你即時可選擇 將佢 show 俾邊啲人睇
03:55
wearing multiple different outfits at the same time
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喺同一時間著唔同嘅衫
03:58
and using most advanced technology, like AR or VR for example.
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同埋用最先進嘅科技 好似係擴增實境又或者係虛擬實境
04:02
And not only does it allow for self-expression
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佢唔單止可以喺唔同環境度表現自己
04:05
in totally different contexts,
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04:06
but digital fashion can be zero-waste and inclusive, available to users,
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係零浪費同可以包容所有用戶
04:11
regardless of their gender, size or race.
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唔論佢哋咩性別 身形同種族
04:13
I come from Croatia,
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我嚟自克羅地亞:
04:15
a country that is nowhere on the fashion map,
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完全唔喺時裝地圖入面
04:17
yet my company is considered one of the pioneers of this field.
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但係我公司被認為係時裝界嘅先峰
04:21
When we started, we were among the few doing it.
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當我哋開始時 係頭幾間嘅開創公司
04:24
And since then,
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嗰陣時,圍繞我哋 出現咗全新不斷發展嘅
04:25
a whole new evolving market has grown around it.
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數位時裝市場 將會變得好龐大
04:29
Digital fashion market is going to be huge.
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04:31
But from my experience, no one knows how far it could go.
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但係從我嘅經驗嚟睇 冇人知道會變得有幾大
04:34
It's fairly simple.
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答案好簡單
04:36
Technology usually grows exponentially, and so will our virtual presence.
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科技通常幾可級增長 虛擬世界亦都係一樣
總要有人幫虛擬人物著衫㗎﹗
04:41
And someone has to dress these people.
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04:43
Thank you.
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