The New Reality of Fashion is Digital | Gala Marija Vrbanic | TED

譯者: Lilian Chiu 審譯者: Helen Chang

I often get this question:

我經常被問道：

"Why would anyone buy a piece of clothing that doesn't exist?"

「為什麼會有人想買 不存在的衣服？」

And as you can see, it's not that it doesn't exist.

各位可以看到，它並不是不存在。

Digital fashion is real, and it exists in so many virtual universes,

數位時裝是真的，

它存在於許多虛擬世界中，

ranging from basic social networks

從基本的社群網站，

to fully developed virtual worlds known as the metaverse,

到發展完整的虛擬世界，即元宇宙，

letting people express themselves in a way not possible before.

讓大家能以前所未有的 方式來表現自己。

I’ve been playing video games since I [can] remember,

從我有記憶以來，我就在玩電玩，

dressing up my game character.

裝扮我的遊戲角色。

Actually, I enjoyed it more than dressing up myself.

事實上，我覺得這比 裝扮我自己更有意思。

Five years ago, I was running a physical fashion brand.

五年前，我在經營實體的時裝品牌。

But because of my gaming experience,

但，我玩遊戲的經驗讓我不斷在想：

I kept thinking:

「人要怎麼穿數位服裝？ 又為什麼要穿？」

“How and why could people wear digital garments?”

And there was a reason I believed they would.

而我有理由相信他們會穿。

In 2016, I did research on “hypebeast culture.”

2016 年，

我研究了「炒作獸文化」。

You know, those people buying and selling garments

炒作獸專門在買賣 那些會搶購一空的服裝。

that are always sold out.

As part of this research,

為了這個研究，我加入了數個 炒作獸會出沒的臉書社團。

I've joined various Facebook groups where they were gathering.

What I noticed was they were usually buying those pieces

我發現，他們通常買了那些衣服

just to post a photo of themselves wearing it on their social channels.

只是要為自己社交頻道拍照， 拍攝自己穿上那些衣服。

And later on, they would resell it.

然後，他們就會把衣服轉賣。

So they didn't need or want the actual garment.

所以他們並不需要 或想要那些衣服本身。

They wanted its image, and that image was being used online.

他們要的是那些衣服的圖， 讓他們在網路上使用。

And it made sense to me,

我覺得很合理，

because, like most of my generation,

因為，正如我這個世代大部分的人，

they had their friends, peers, role models in the virtual space,

虛擬空間裡有他們的朋友、 同儕，以及榜樣，

and this is where we care to express ourselves.

我們會想在這個空間中表現自己。

This is when I started experimenting

於是，我開始針對現今 所謂的數位時裝做實驗。

with what today we know as digital fashion.

Now I run the world's first direct-to-consumer digital fashion brand

現在我在經營世上第一個 直接面對消費者的數位時裝品牌

and a fashion tech house.

和一家時裝科技公司。

We officially started last year,

我們在去年正式開始營運，

and our growth has been unimaginable from a traditional fashion perspective.

從傳統時裝的觀點來看， 我們的成長速度快得超乎想像。

Apart from doing our own designs,

除了做我們自己的設計，

we regularly collaborate with the biggest names from the industry.

我們也常和產業中的名牌合作。

With Carolina Herrera, we collaborated on a runway dress

我們和卡洛琳娜‧赫瑞拉 合作過一套走秀禮服，

and developed an app

並開發 App，讓你透過擴增實境， 在你的手機上穿上這套禮服。

where you can wear the dress on your phone using augmented reality.

And with Jean Paul Gaultier,

我們和尚‧保羅‧高緹耶則合作了 他們女式時裝系列中的一件作品。

we collaborated on a piece that was part of their couture collection.

We even have our flagship store in the Decentraland,

我們甚至在 Decentraland 開設了旗艦店，

a metaverse owned and created by its users.

Decentraland 是個元宇宙， 由其使用者擁有及創造。

And we are not the only ones.

且我們並不孤單。

For example, on Demat, an NFT marketplace,

比如，NFT 市場 Demat 中，

fashion brands are selling authenticated digital fashion items

時裝品牌會販售有認證的數位時裝，

that are usually sold out as soon as they are released.

通常一釋出就被秒殺。

And as it was for me,

正如我的狀況，

the games are becoming a gateway to digital fashion for many.

許多人也是透過遊戲 進入數位時尚的領域。

The biggest names in the luxury segment are eagerly trying to enter this space.

奢侈品行業中最知名的品牌 很渴望進入這個空間。

Balenciaga has collaborated with Fortnite,

巴黎世家與堡壘之夜合作，

and Gucci bag was sold inside Roblox for more than its worth in real life.

在 Roblox 裡，古馳的包包 賣得比現實中還貴。

Fortnite itself has sold more than two billion worth of skins and game extras

堡壘之夜自己賣出的 遊戲角色造型及額外物件

價值就超過二十億美金。

for in-game character dressing.

But it's a misconception that creating digital fashion is quick and easy.

但，認為創造數位時裝既快速 又容易是個錯誤的觀念。

We often have to play by the same rules as in real-life physical fashion.

我們通常也得依循現實中 實體時裝的遊戲規則。

Think back to a time when there were no computers

回想一下還沒有電腦， 海報只能手工製作的時代。

and people were making posters by hand.

When the software like Adobe Photoshop finally arrived,

等到 Adobe Photoshop 這類軟體終於問世，

they thought making posters is going to be so much quicker and easier.

大家以為製作海報 會變得既快速又容易。

But obviously that wasn't true

但顯然不是如此。

because technology just replaced outdated principles with new possibilities.

因為科技只是用新的可能性 取代了過時的原則。

So instead of doing most of the development in the physical space,

所以，我們不再在實體空間中 進行大部分的開發工作，

we do it in front of our screens.

改成在螢幕前面進行。

The process is the same, just the tools are different.

流程是一樣的，只是工具不同了。

And in the end,

到頭來，一切還是回歸到 服裝或概念的複雜與否。

everything falls back to a complexity of a piece or a concept.

For example,

比如，

there's a huge difference in creating a basic T-shirt

不論用什麼方式， 製作一件基本款 T 恤

or a couture-like dress, regardless of the medium.

和一件女式時裝都有很大的不同。

And the digital realm somehow forces you to go into that exploratory direction.

而數位國度就是會以某種方式 迫使你往探索的方向走。

Because do you even need a physical T-shirt in a virtual space?

因為，在虛擬空間中， 你會需要實體 T 恤嗎？

With digital fashion, you can experience fashion in its purest form,

有了數位時裝，你就可以 體驗到時裝最純粹的形式，

devoid of functional barriers.

沒有功能上的障礙。

You don't need your sleeves there.

在那裡，你不需要你的袖子， 你甚至不需要你的手。

You don't even need your hands.

Digital fashion is not an alternative but an evolutionary step.

數位時裝並不是替代方案， 而是開始演化的一步。

And we are currently at the beginning of this new era.

而我們目前正在 這個新紀元的最初期。

An era where digital garments could become an added layer to our reality,

在這個紀元，數位服裝可以 成為我們現實中外加的層面，

where you will be able to instantly choose to whom you want to present yourself

在這個層面上，你可以立即選擇 你想要把自己呈現給誰看，

wearing multiple different outfits at the same time

同時穿上多套不同的服裝，

and using most advanced technology, like AR or VR for example.

並使用最先進的技術， 如擴增實境或虛擬實境。

And not only does it allow for self-expression

不僅可以在完全不同的 情境中表現自己，

in totally different contexts,

but digital fashion can be zero-waste and inclusive, available to users,

數位時裝的好處還有 零廢物，具有包容性，

各種性別、體型、 種族的使用者都可以穿。

regardless of their gender, size or race.

I come from Croatia,

我來自克羅埃西亞，

a country that is nowhere on the fashion map,

在時裝地圖上找不到這個國家，

yet my company is considered one of the pioneers of this field.

但，我的公司被視為 這個領域中的先鋒之一。

When we started, we were among the few doing it.

我們剛開始時，沒有 幾家公司在做數位時裝。

And since then,

從那時起，一個全新且不斷 演化的市場就開始成長。

a whole new evolving market has grown around it.

Digital fashion market is going to be huge.

數位時裝市場將會非常壯大。

But from my experience, no one knows how far it could go.

但，根據我的經驗， 沒有人知道它的能耐。

It's fairly simple.

很簡單。

Technology usually grows exponentially, and so will our virtual presence.

科技的成長通常是指數成長，

我們的虛擬存在也會是如此。

And someone has to dress these people.

而有人得幫這些人著裝。

Thank you.

謝謝。