Fashion that celebrates all body types -- boldly and unapologetically | Becca McCharen-Tran

Translator: Ivana Korom Reviewer: Krystian Aparta

翻译人员: Archi Xiao 校对人员: Wei Zhang

As fashion designers,

作为一名时尚设计师，

our decisions have the power to change our culture.

我们所做的决定 拥有改变文化的力量。

We choose who is cast in our runway shows and campaigns,

我们决定谁来走台步， 谁来拍广告，

and ultimately, who is celebrated and considered beautiful,

最终决定谁会被赞美， 谁才是美丽的标准，

and who is not.

而谁又与这些标准擦肩而过。

Having this platform is a responsibility.

拥有这个平台其实是一种责任。

One that can be utilized to exclude people

这个平台可以被用来排挤一些人

or to empower others.

或者赋能另一些人。

Growing up, I was obsessed with fashion.

成长过程中我曾一度沉迷时尚。

I pored over all different types of fashion magazines

我在附近的连锁书店里， 翻遍了各种各样

at my local Barnes and Noble.

的时尚杂志。

To be fashionable was to be tall, skinny, with long, shiny hair.

要想变得时尚，就意味着要身型高挑， 苗条，拥有亮丽的长发。

That's what I saw as the ideal,

这是当时我心目中的理想类型，

and it was reinforced everywhere I looked.

目之所及的一切 也加强了我这种想法。

And to be honest, it still is.

实话说，现在也是。

I wanted to be like the models, so I stopped eating.

我希望看起来更像模特， 因此我开始绝食。

It was a dark time in my life;

那是我人生中最黑暗的时刻；

my eating disorder consumed me.

进食障碍吞噬着我。

All I could think about was counting every single calorie,

我脑海里只有一件事， 就是计算我所吃下的每一个卡路里，

and waking up early before school every day

每天上学前更早起来，

so I could run a few miles.

这样就可以跑上几公里。

It took me years to finally release the grip

我花了好些年 才终于放过自己，

that the eating disorder had over my life.

不再让进食障碍控制我的生活。

But when it did,

当我真正释放的时候，

it freed up so much brain space

我的大脑也清净了许多，

to think about what I was truly passionate about.

能好好想想 真正让我热情澎湃的是什么。

For so long,

长久以来，

the fashion industry has worked hard to set an ideal of beauty

时尚界极力去 设立一个有关美的理想，

that celebrates thin, young, white, cisgender,

那个歌颂纤细， 年轻，白皙，顺性别，

able-bodied models as the ideal.

健美的模特的理想。

It's impossible not to be bombarded

几乎不可能避开

with images of models that have been photoshopped

经过精修的模特图片 的狂轰乱炸，

to where there's not a single pore,

在这些图片中根本看不见

fat roll or stretch mark in sight.

任何肥肉或者皱纹。

You don't need to look hard to find examples.

这样的例子随处可见。

This definition of beauty is damaging, dangerous and destructive,

如此对美的定义是有害的， 危险且具备破坏力，

and we need to explode it immediately.

我们必须立刻消灭这个定义。

(Applause)

（掌声）

I'm glad you agree.

我很高兴看到大家站在同一战线。

(Laughter)

（笑声）

One of the worst things I've realized over the years

这些年我体会到的 最糟糕的事情之一，

is that my experience with disordered eating

就是我那段进食障碍经历

is not an anomaly.

并不被认为是反常的。

In fact, it's par for the course.

事实上，没什么好意外的。

I think there's a study that says 91 percent of women,

我记得某项研究表明， 91% 的女性，

and likely those of all gender identities,

以及很有可能那些全性别身份的人，

are unhappy with the way they look.

对自己的外在感到不开心。

It's unforgivable

不能原谅的是，

that we live in a society where it's normal or expected

我们活在一个认为 青少年怀着讨厌自己情绪长大

for teenagers to grow up hating themselves.

是正常不过，或者正中下怀的社会。

We've been fighting for fat acceptance and women's body autonomy since the '60s.

从 60 年代起，我们一直为接受肥胖 和女性身体自主权而奋斗。

And there has been headway.

并取得了一定的进步。

We have plus-size models like Ashley Graham

我们现在有像阿什莉 · 格林汉姆 这样的大码模特

and musicians with body-positive messages,

以及传递着身体自爱信息的音乐人，

like Lizzo, breaking into the mainstream.

比如说 Lizzo，闯进了主流。

Thank God.

感谢上帝。

(Laughter)

（笑声）

There's brands like Area

有像 Area 这样的品牌

that have released campaigns without any Photoshop retouching.

他们做的广告 从不做任何修图。

But we're still inundated with unrealistic expectations.

但是我们仍然被 不切实际的期望所淹没。

I love this quote by Lizzo, who said,

我很爱 Lizzo 所说的这句话：

"Body positivity only exists because body negativity is the norm."

“身体自爱之所以存在 是因为身体不自爱是社会规范。”

So how do we change the stigma around looking different

那么我们该怎样才能改变 因长相与众不同

or not fitting into this narrow definition of beauty?

或未能符合狭隘的美的定义 所带来的羞耻感？

I believe it's by celebrating beauty in all different forms,

我相信这需要从赞美 所有不同形式的美开始，

bold and unapologetically.

大胆而恣意。

But many fashion designers continue to reinforce

但是许多时尚设计师还在强调

this narrow definition of beauty.

这种狭隘的美的定义。

From the way they are taught in school

从他们在学校被教导开始

and into the real world,

到他们进入现实世界，

they drape on mannequins that are only size four,

他们只在 4 号身形的 人体模型上做裁剪，

or sketch on bodies that are super stretched out

或者只用那些 超级修长的身体做素描

and not anatomically proportioned.

且所用的比例并不符合解剖学。

Different-size bodies aren't taken into account

在设计的过程中，不同大小的身体

during the design process.

并不被纳入考虑范围，

They're not thought of.

甚至从未出现在 设计师的脑海里。

So who are these designers designing for?

那么这些设计师在为谁设计呢？

But the conversation around exclusivity in fashion

但是对于时尚的 排他性的讨论

doesn't begin and end with size.

并不因肥瘦而起， 更不会就此而终。

It's about seeing people of all different gender expressions,

这是有关于如何看待 拥有不同性别表达的人，

different ability levels, different ages,

不同能力，不同年龄，

different races and ethnicities,

不同种族的人，

celebrated for their own unique beauty.

因其独特的美而得到赞美。

In my own work as a fashion designer,

我自己作为一名设计师，

I started a brand called Chromat,

创立了一个叫 Chromat 的品牌，

and we're committed to empowering women, femmes and nonbinary #ChromatBABES,

我们致力于通过完美合身的服装

of all shapes and sizes,

为不同身形，不同肥瘦的，

through perfectly fit garments for every body.

女性，妇女及非二元 的 #ChromatBABES 赋能。

Swimwear has become a huge focus for me,

我的一大关注点在泳装，

because of the power that this single garment can have

因为这个服装单品拥有

over the way people feel about themselves.

改变人们对自己看法的力量。

We wanted to take our focus on celebrating all body types

我们想要把对于 赞美所有身形的关注

to a garment that's fraught with insecurity.

转移到充满不安全感的 服装上来。

On our runways, you see curves, cellulite and scars worn proudly.

在我们的 T 台上，你能看见丰满的， 肥胖的，带有伤疤却自信满的模特。

We're a runway show, yes,

没错，我们只是 T 台走秀，

but we're also a celebration.

但是同时也是一场庆典。

I didn't start designing 10 years ago

10 年前我开始从事设计的时候，

with the mission to change the entire industry.

并没有怀着 要改变整个行业的使命。

But the models we cast at the time,

但是当时我们所挑选的模特

who just happened to be my friends who had begged to be in my shows,

恰巧是我的朋友， 恳求着走我的秀，

were so radical to some people,

却对一些人态度非常激进，

and, unfortunately, still are different or strange to some,

即使现在也依然对一些人 很冷淡，漠不关心，

that it became a huge part of what we're known for.

我们之所以出名， 主要就是因为这件事。

However, inclusivity means nothing if it's only surface level.

然而，如果只是流于表面， 所谓的包容性根本不存在。

Behind the scenes,

在镜头背后，

from the photographer, to the casting director,

从摄影师到选角导演，

to the interns,

再到实习生，

who is making the decisions behind the scenes

这些在镜头背后 做决定的人

is just as important.

同样重要。

It's imperative to include diverse decision-makers in the process,

在决策过程中让 多样的决策者参与进来至关重要，

and it's always better to collaborate with different communities,

与不同的社团协作 总是好过

rather than trying to speak for them.

尝试着为它们代言。

And this is an important piece of the puzzle

这是很多年轻的设计师在开始

that many young designers may not think about

他们的事业的时候从未想到过的

很重要的一个谜题，

when they're first starting their careers,

但是聘用一个大码模特 或者一个跨性别摄影师，

but hiring a plus-size or a transgender photographer,

or a woman of color as your casting director,

或者一个有色女性 作为你的选角导演，

or a black makeup artist -- hey, Fatima Thomas --

又或者一个黑人化妆师 —— 嗨，法蒂玛 · 托马斯 ——

who intimately understands how important it is

这些人都切身体会到 能和不同肤色的人共事

to be able to work with all skin tones:

是多么重要：

it's essential to creating a holistically inclusive output,

去创造这样一个 全方位包容的输出

like this one.

是必不可少的。

As a fashion designers that do a lot of swim,

作为已经做过很多 泳装设计的设计师，

we wanted to rewrite the rules around having a bikini body.

我们想改写 有关比基尼身材的规则。

So we cast a team of babe guards

因此我们挑选了一组宝贝卫士

to enforce guidelines around inclusion and acceptance at the pool.

来强化泳池边的 有关包容性和接受度的准则。

Instead of "no diving" and "no running,"

不要“禁止跳水”，不要“禁止奔跑”，

how about "celebrate cellulite,"

来“赞美丰乳肥臀”，

"body policing prohibited,"

“禁止监管身材”，

and "intolerance not tolerated."

“孰不可忍”如何？

And this was enforced by babe guards Mama Cax, Denise Bidot,

这场运动有宝贝卫士 玛玛 · 卡克斯，丹妮斯 · 比多，

Geena Rocero, Ericka Hart and Emme,

吉娜 · 罗切罗，艾瑞卡 · 哈特以及艾姆,

all activists in their own right.

这些积极分子亲自参与。

I've always felt it was important to show a range of different bodies

我一直都认为在我们的 T 台和广告中展示一系列

in our runway shows and campaigns.

不同的身材是很重要的。

But it actually wasn't until recently

但是实际上，直到最近，

that we were able to expand our size range in a major way.

我们才能够大范围地 扩大我们的码数范围。

We first launched our curve collection

五年前，我们刚发行我们的

five years ago;

丰满系列；

we were so excited.

我们异常兴奋。

But when it launched, it fell flat.

但是发行后，反响平平。

Nobody was interested.

没有人对这个系列感兴趣。

None of our department stores stocked above a size large,

我们的百货门店里没有一家 进大码的货，

and if they did, it was somewhere else in the building entirely.

哪怕进货了，全部被搁置在 大楼里的某个角落。

In fact, one time our sales team said,

事实上，一次我们的销售团队说道：

"You know, it's so cool you have trans models

“在你的T台上有跨性别模特， 丰满的模特，

and curve models on the runway --

真的挺酷的——

I love what you're doing.

我很欣赏你所做的一切。

But when the buyers come in to see the collection for market,

但是当买家来看 我们给他准备了什么产品的时候，

they want to be sold a dream,

他们想要被推销的是一个梦想，

they want to see something that they aspire to be."

他们想看到 他们能变成怎样。”

Implying that our models weren't that.

这暗示着我们的模特 根本不是这样的。

But I've realized it's so much more important

但是我认识到， 更重要的是

to open up this dream to more people.

向更多的人展示这个梦想。

I want the consumer to know

我想让消费者明白

that it's not your body that needs to change --

需要改变的 并不是你的身体——

it's the clothes.

而是服装。

(Applause)

（掌声）

There needs to be more fashion options at all sizes and in all retailers.

我们需要更全的码数，所有零售商 提供更多的时尚选择。

So finally, in 2018,

终于，在 2018 年，

Nordstrom actually placed an order up to 3X.

诺德斯特龙下了个 码数达到 3X 的订单。

And this was a huge game changer for us

这简直一举改变了我们的形势，

to have a major retailer invest in adding these units,

有了这个大型零售商 在这些服装上注资，

so we could go to the factory --

我们可以去工厂 ——

now we go up to 4X, which is about a size 32.

现在我们把码数提升到 4X， 也就是 32 码。

Having that investment

这笔投资

helped us to change and realign our entire design process.

帮助我们改变并重新调整了 我们整个设计流程。

We now have different-sized bodies to sketch and drape on in the studio.

我们现在在工作室有了 不同大小的人体模型来画素描和做裁剪。

And if more fashion schools taught these skills,

如果有更多的时尚学院 来教授这些技巧的话，

more designers would have the ability to design for all bodies.

会有更多的设计师能为 所有的身形做设计。

(Applause)

（掌声）

So as fashion designers, it's our job to utilize our platform

作为时尚设计师， 利用我们的平台去消灭

to explode this narrow and restrictive definition of beauty.

这种狭隘的，限制多多的 美的定义是我们的职责。

My goal is that one day,

我的目标是终有一天，

teenagers growing up don't feel the same pressure that I did to conform.

青少年在成长过程中 不再有我当年的压力。

And I hope that our work contributes to the fashion industry's opening up

同时我希望我们的努力 能使得时尚界敞开心胸，

to celebrate many different identities.

去接受各种不同的人。

Thank you.

谢谢大家。

(Applause and cheers)

（掌声与喝彩）