Fashion that celebrates all body types -- boldly and unapologetically | Becca McCharen-Tran

Translator: Ivana Korom Reviewer: Krystian Aparta

譯者: Lilian Chiu 審譯者: Amanda Chu

As fashion designers,

身為時裝設計師，

our decisions have the power to change our culture.

我們的決定有著改變文化的力量。

We choose who is cast in our runway shows and campaigns,

我們決定時裝秀 及廣告活動上台的人選，

and ultimately, who is celebrated and considered beautiful,

決定誰最終會被讚頌、被認定為美麗，

and who is not.

而誰不會。

Having this platform is a responsibility.

擁有這個平台是一種責任。

One that can be utilized to exclude people

它能夠被用來排擠人，

or to empower others.

或用來捧人。

Growing up, I was obsessed with fashion.

我在成長過程中就很迷戀時尚。

I pored over all different types of fashion magazines

我在當地的巴諾書店中

熟讀各種不同類型的時尚雜誌。

at my local Barnes and Noble.

To be fashionable was to be tall, skinny, with long, shiny hair.

時尚人就是要很高、很瘦， 披著一頭閃亮的長髮。

That's what I saw as the ideal,

那是我心中理想時尚的概念。

and it was reinforced everywhere I looked.

看得越多，我就越確信這一點。

And to be honest, it still is.

老實說，現在還是一樣。

I wanted to be like the models, so I stopped eating.

我曾想當模特兒，所以我不吃東西。

It was a dark time in my life;

那是我人生中的黑暗時期； 我的飲食障礙吞噬著我。

my eating disorder consumed me.

All I could think about was counting every single calorie,

我滿腦子都在斤斤計較 每一個卡路里，

and waking up early before school every day

每天上學前要提早起床，

so I could run a few miles.

才能先慢跑幾英里。

It took me years to finally release the grip

我花了數年的時間

才終於脫離了 飲食障礙對我人生的影響。

that the eating disorder had over my life.

But when it did,

在那之後，釋放出好多腦空間

it freed up so much brain space

to think about what I was truly passionate about.

來思考我真正的熱情在哪裡。

For so long,

長久以來，時尚產業很努力地 設立了一種美麗的理想標準，

the fashion industry has worked hard to set an ideal of beauty

that celebrates thin, young, white, cisgender,

讚頌纖瘦、年輕、白種、順性別、 身體健全的模特兒，

able-bodied models as the ideal.

符合這些條件才是理想的。

It's impossible not to be bombarded

要不被一大堆修圖過的模特兒 照片給轟炸是不可能的，

with images of models that have been photoshopped

且修圖修到中看不見 任何毛孔、肥肉、肥胖紋。

to where there's not a single pore,

fat roll or stretch mark in sight.

You don't need to look hard to find examples.

隨處都看到到這種例子。

This definition of beauty is damaging, dangerous and destructive,

美麗的這種定義其實 具有傷害力、危險性和破壞性，

我們必須要立刻推翻它。

and we need to explode it immediately.

(Applause)

（掌聲）

I'm glad you agree.

我很高興你們認同。（笑聲）

(Laughter)

One of the worst things I've realized over the years

最糟糕的是，這些年來我發覺

is that my experience with disordered eating

那段飲食障礙的經歷並不特別，

is not an anomaly.

In fact, it's par for the course.

事實上，這是司空見慣的現象。

I think there's a study that says 91 percent of women,

有一篇研究指出， 91% 的女性，

and likely those of all gender identities,

很可能還包括各種性別身分的人，

are unhappy with the way they look.

對他們的外貌都不滿意。

It's unforgivable

年輕女孩在討厭自己的心態下長大，

that we live in a society where it's normal or expected

我們的社會竟將此現象 視為常態或理所當然，

for teenagers to grow up hating themselves.

真是不可原諒。

We've been fighting for fat acceptance and women's body autonomy since the '60s.

從 1960 年代起我們就在努力推動 接納肥胖和女性身體自主權，

And there has been headway.

一直都有進展。

We have plus-size models like Ashley Graham

我們有加大尺碼的模特兒， 如艾希莉葛萊漢，

and musicians with body-positive messages,

以及傳遞身體自愛訊息的 音樂家，如莉佐，

like Lizzo, breaking into the mainstream.

她們打入了主流，謝天謝地。

Thank God.

(Laughter)

（笑聲）

There's brands like Area

還有像 Area 這樣的品牌， 使用完全不用修圖的宣傳照。

that have released campaigns without any Photoshop retouching.

But we're still inundated with unrealistic expectations.

但我們仍然被 不切實際的期待所淹沒。

I love this quote by Lizzo, who said,

我很喜歡莉佐說的一句話：

"Body positivity only exists because body negativity is the norm."

「身體自愛會存在是因為 身體不自愛是一種常態。」

So how do we change the stigma around looking different

我們要如何改變 這種汙名化的現象，

or not fitting into this narrow definition of beauty?

別再羞辱外表與眾不同 或不符合美麗窄隘定義的人？

I believe it's by celebrating beauty in all different forms,

我相信，做法就是讚頌 各種不同形式的美麗，

bold and unapologetically.

大膽且不用覺得抱歉。

But many fashion designers continue to reinforce

但許多時尚設計師持續強化 美麗的這種狹隘定義。

this narrow definition of beauty.

From the way they are taught in school

從他們在學校學習的方式，

and into the real world,

一直到真實世界，

they drape on mannequins that are only size four,

他們裝扮的模特兒假人 尺碼都只有四號，

or sketch on bodies that are super stretched out

時尚設計圖的素描

都把身體拉長得 不符合人體正常比例。

and not anatomically proportioned.

Different-size bodies aren't taken into account

在設計過程中，不同尺碼的 體型沒有被納入考量，

during the design process.

They're not thought of.

想都沒有想過。

So who are these designers designing for?

所以這些設計師是為了誰在做設計？

But the conversation around exclusivity in fashion

但在時尚圈中關於排他性的討論

doesn't begin and end with size.

並不止於尺碼的問題。

It's about seeing people of all different gender expressions,

重點是要看到各種人 有不同的性別表述、

different ability levels, different ages,

不同的能力高低、不同的年齡、

different races and ethnicities,

不同的種族和文化，

celebrated for their own unique beauty.

都能讚頌他們自己獨一無二的美麗。

In my own work as a fashion designer,

在我的時尚設計工作中，

I started a brand called Chromat,

我創造了一個品牌叫 Chromat，

and we're committed to empowering women, femmes and nonbinary #ChromatBABES,

我們承諾要強化女人、女同性戀， 以及非二元性別的 #Chromat 寶貝，

of all shapes and sizes,

不論體形、尺碼，

through perfectly fit garments for every body.

每個身體都有能完全合身的服裝。

Swimwear has become a huge focus for me,

泳裝已經變成了 我設計的一個主要焦點，

because of the power that this single garment can have

因為單單一件衣著就有強大的力量

over the way people feel about themselves.

足以影響人們對自己的感覺。

We wanted to take our focus on celebrating all body types

我們想把焦點放在一種最容易引發 對自己體型不安全感的衣著，

to a garment that's fraught with insecurity.

讓我們更能欣賞各種體型。

On our runways, you see curves, cellulite and scars worn proudly.

在我們的伸展台上，

你會看到豐腴的曲線、 橘皮組織、傷疤被大方展現。

We're a runway show, yes,

我們是伸展台時裝秀，

but we're also a celebration.

但我們也是一場讚頌慶典。

I didn't start designing 10 years ago

十年前我開始做設計時，

with the mission to change the entire industry.

並沒有想改變整個產業的使命感。

But the models we cast at the time,

但當時我們安排的模特兒

who just happened to be my friends who had begged to be in my shows,

剛好是我的朋友， 她們請求要參與走秀，

were so radical to some people,

某些人當時覺得這種安排很極端，

and, unfortunately, still are different or strange to some,

不幸的是，現在仍有些人 覺得她們很奇怪，

that it became a huge part of what we're known for.

但我們的與眾不同 已成了我們知名之處。

However, inclusivity means nothing if it's only surface level.

然而，包容如果只有做表面， 就一點意義也沒有。

Behind the scenes,

在幕後，

from the photographer, to the casting director,

從攝影師到選角導演，

to the interns,

到實習生，

who is making the decisions behind the scenes

在幕後做決策的人

is just as important.

也都同等重要。

It's imperative to include diverse decision-makers in the process,

當務之急是讓多樣化的決策者參與，

and it's always better to collaborate with different communities,

通常，和不同的族群共同合作設計，

rather than trying to speak for them.

好過由我們代替他們發聲。

And this is an important piece of the puzzle

我們的工作中有很重要的一環，

that many young designers may not think about

許多年輕設計師在剛開始 職涯時可能不會想到：

when they're first starting their careers,

僱用一名加大尺碼或變性攝影師，

but hiring a plus-size or a transgender photographer,

or a woman of color as your casting director,

或有色人種的女性選角導演，

or a black makeup artist -- hey, Fatima Thomas --

或黑人化妝師 ······ 嘿，法蒂瑪湯瑪斯！

who intimately understands how important it is

他們能非常切身地了解，

能處理各種皮膚色調有多麼重要，

to be able to work with all skin tones:

it's essential to creating a holistically inclusive output,

因為如此才能夠創造出 適合各種人的產物，

like this one.

像是這件作品。

As a fashion designers that do a lot of swim,

身為常常游泳的時尚設計師，

we wanted to rewrite the rules around having a bikini body.

我們想要重寫比基尼身材的規則。

So we cast a team of babe guards

所以我們安排了一組 女子救生員當模特兒，

to enforce guidelines around inclusion and acceptance at the pool.

來強化游泳池中 包容和接納的指導方針。

Instead of "no diving" and "no running,"

不要用「禁止潛水」 及「禁止奔跑」的標誌，

how about "celebrate cellulite,"

換成「讚頌橘皮組織」、

"body policing prohibited,"

「禁止體型警察」，

and "intolerance not tolerated."

「拒絕包容不包容的行為」。

And this was enforced by babe guards Mama Cax, Denise Bidot,

推行這項活動的女子救生員包括： 瑪瑪卡克斯、丹妮絲畢多、

Geena Rocero, Ericka Hart and Emme,

吉娜羅瑟洛、艾瑞卡哈特，及艾美。

all activists in their own right.

她們都是時尚群眾運動家。

I've always felt it was important to show a range of different bodies

我總覺得在時裝秀及廣告活動中

in our runway shows and campaigns.

展示一系列不同的身體是很重要的。

But it actually wasn't until recently

但一直到最近，

that we were able to expand our size range in a major way.

我們才有辦法大幅擴展尺碼的範圍。

We first launched our curve collection

我們五年前初次推出豐腴曲線系列，

five years ago;

we were so excited.

當時我們好興奮。

But when it launched, it fell flat.

但推出時，卻徹底失敗。

Nobody was interested.

沒有人感興趣。

None of our department stores stocked above a size large,

沒有百貨公司進 L 以上的尺碼，

and if they did, it was somewhere else in the building entirely.

就算有，也是存放在 大樓裡不同的地方。

In fact, one time our sales team said,

事實上，有次我們的業務團隊說：

"You know, it's so cool you have trans models

「你把變性、豐腴的模特兒 放在伸展台上是件很酷的事，

and curve models on the runway --

I love what you're doing.

我很喜歡你做的事。

But when the buyers come in to see the collection for market,

但當買家過來看上市的系列時，

they want to be sold a dream,

他們想買的是一個夢想， 他們想看到自己渴望成為的形象。」

they want to see something that they aspire to be."

Implying that our models weren't that.

暗指我們的模特兒 不是他們渴望的形象。

But I've realized it's so much more important

但我了解到，更重要的 是要把這個夢想開放給更多人。

to open up this dream to more people.

I want the consumer to know

我希望消費者知道， 要改變的不是你的身體，

that it's not your body that needs to change --

it's the clothes.

是衣服。

(Applause)

（掌聲）

There needs to be more fashion options at all sizes and in all retailers.

我們需要有更多 時尚選擇和所有尺碼，

而且所有零售據點都買得到。

So finally, in 2018,

所以終於在 2018 年，

Nordstrom actually placed an order up to 3X.

諾德斯特龍百貨公司下單， 進貨最大尺寸是 3X。

And this was a huge game changer for us

有大型零售商投資增加這些品項，

to have a major retailer invest in adding these units,

對我們來說是個很大的助力。

so we could go to the factory --

於是我們就能交給工廠做。

now we go up to 4X, which is about a size 32.

現在我們有 4X 的尺碼， 大約是 32 號。

Having that investment

有那樣的投資，

helped us to change and realign our entire design process.

讓我們能夠革新和重新調整 整個設計過程。

We now have different-sized bodies to sketch and drape on in the studio.

現在我們在工作室裡有 不同尺碼的體型供素描及裝扮。

And if more fashion schools taught these skills,

若有更多時尚學校能教這些技能，

more designers would have the ability to design for all bodies.

就會有更多設計師有能力 為各種體型做設計。

(Applause)

（掌聲）

So as fashion designers, it's our job to utilize our platform

所以身為時尚設計師，

我們的工作是要用我們的平台

to explode this narrow and restrictive definition of beauty.

來推翻對美麗所下的狹隘定義。

My goal is that one day,

我的目標是，有一天，

teenagers growing up don't feel the same pressure that I did to conform.

年輕女孩成長過程不必再感受到 我當初那種必須順應他人的壓力。

And I hope that our work contributes to the fashion industry's opening up

我希望我們的努力 能促成時尚產業更開放，

to celebrate many different identities.

去讚頌許多不同的身份。

Thank you.

謝謝。

(Applause and cheers)

（掌聲及歡呼）