The wildly complex anatomy of a sneaker - Angel Chang

譯者: Lilian Chiu 審譯者: Helen Chang

Australians call them “runners." The British know them as “trainers."

澳洲人稱它們為「跑鞋」。 英國人管它們叫做「訓練鞋」。

Americans refer to them as “tennis shoes” or “sneakers."

美國人叫它們做 「網球鞋」或「運動鞋」。

Whatever you call them, these rubber-soled, casual shoes

不論怎麼稱呼它們，全世界都有

are worn by billions of people around the world.

數十億人穿這種橡膠鞋底的鞋子。

Originally invented in the late 19th century,

這種帆布加橡膠的簡單產物，

最早是在十九世紀末期被發明出來，

these simple canvas and rubber creations have changed a lot

從最早被穿上路至今， 它們已經改變了很多。

since they first hit the pavement.

Today, sneaker consumption is at an all-time high.

現今，運動鞋的消費量是史上最高。

No country buys more sneakers than the United States,

沒有其他國家像美國 買這麼多的運動鞋，

where people purchase 3 pairs a year on average.

在美國，平均一人一年要買三雙。

To meet this demand, roughly 23 billion shoes are produced each year,

為了滿足這需求，每年大約 要製造出兩百三十億雙鞋子，

mostly in factories across China and Southeast Asia.

大部分由中國和東南亞的工廠產出。

But making shoes has become more complicated, more labor-intensive,

但鞋子的製造已經變得 更複雜、更勞力密集、

and in some ways, more dangerous,

在某種意義上，也更危險，

for the workers involved and for our planet.

對相關的工人和地球皆是如此。

Shoe manufacturing accounts for roughly one-fifth

時尚產業的碳排放

大約有五分之一來自生產鞋子。

of the fashion industry’s carbon emissions.

Sneakers alone generate 313 million metric tons of carbon dioxide every year,

每年，光是運動鞋就會產生

三億一千三百萬 立方公噸的二氧化碳，

which is equivalent to the annual emissions of 66 million cars.

等同於六千六百萬台 汽車的年排放量。

To better understand your shoe’s carbon footprint,

為了更進一步了解 你的鞋子的碳足跡，

let’s dive into the anatomy of a sneaker.

咱們先來看看運動鞋的解剖學。

For starters, the heel, insole, midsole, and upper layer

首先，鞋跟、內底、中底，及上層

are usually made from synthetic textiles like polyester, nylon, latex,

材料通常是合成織物，

如聚酯、尼龍、乳膠，及聚氨酯。

and polyurethane.

Mining the fossil fuels that make up these materials emits tons of greenhouse gases.

開採出製造這些材料 要用的化石燃料

就會排放數公噸的溫室氣體。

And processing those raw ingredients into synthetic textiles

把這些原物料加工成為合成織物

also uses a lot of energy, further compounding that pollution.

也會用掉大量能源，讓污染加劇。

Some sneaker tops are made from natural sources like leather,

有些運動鞋的鞋面是用 天然資源製成，如皮革，

but tanning this material relies on chromium;

但要用鉻讓這種材料變成棕褐色；

a carcinogenic chemical that can damage freshwater ecosystems.

鉻是一種致癌化學物， 會傷害淡水生態系統。

The outer soles of most shoes are made of rubber

大部分鞋子的外底是用橡膠做成，

that’s gone through a process called vulcanization.

橡膠會經過一種叫做硫化的過程。

This technique adds sulfur to superheated raw rubber to create a material

它的技巧在於將硫 加入過熱的生橡膠，

創造出一種又有彈性 又結實的材料。

that’s both elastic and sturdy.

Until recently, sneakers used natural rubber for this process.

到最近之前，運動鞋在這個 過程中都是使用天然橡膠。

But today, most outer soles are made with a synthetic blend of natural rubber

但現今大部分外底材料是由天然橡膠

and byproducts from coal and oil.

和媒及石油的副產品混合合成。

Producing these materials accounts for 20% of a sneaker’s carbon footprint.

運動鞋的碳足跡有 20% 來自生產這些材料。

But more than two-thirds of the shoe’s carbon impact comes from the next step:

但鞋子有超過三分之二的碳衝擊 是來自下一個步驟：

manufacturing.

製造。

A typical sneaker is comprised of 65 discrete parts,

標準的運動鞋是由 六十五個分開的部分組成，

each of which is produced by specialized machinery.

每一個部分都要用 專門的機器來製造。

This means it’s cheaper for factories to mass-produce each piece separately

那就表示，對工廠而言， 分開大量生產單一個部分，

rather than manufacturing every part under one roof.

會比在同一個屋簷下 生產所有部分更便宜。

But the transportation required to ship these pieces

但把各部分運送到 一家組裝工廠的交通運輸

to one assembly plant emits even more CO2.

會排放的二氧化碳更多。

Once the components arrive at the assembly line,

等到組件到達了組裝線，

they undergo cutting, pouring, melting, baking, cooling, and gluing,

會經過切割、傾注、熔解、 烘烤、冷卻、黏合的過程，

before the final products can be stitched together.

然後最終產品才能被縫合起來。

The assembly of a typical sneaker requires more than 360 steps,

將標準的運動鞋組裝起來 需要至少三百六十個步驟，

and accounts for the remaining 20% of a sneaker’s environmental impact.

運動鞋剩下那 20% 對環境的衝擊就來自這裡。

The dispersion of factories fuels another problem as well: labor abuse.

工廠分散，也造成另一個問題：

勞工虐待。

Most brands don’t own or operate their factories,

大部分品牌不擁有 不經營自己的工廠，

so the plants they work with are in countries

所以它們的合作工廠通常都位在

with little to no worker protection laws.

很少／沒有工人保護法律的國家。

As a result, many laborers earn below the living wage,

因此，許多勞工賺的薪水 低於生活所需的工資，

and are exposed to harmful chemicals, like toxic glue fumes.

且會暴露在有害的化學物質中， 比如有毒的黏著氣味。

When manufacturing is complete,

當製造完成時，

the shoes are packaged and transported to stores around the globe.

鞋子會被包裝 並運送到全球的店家。

For many, these shoes could last years.

對許多人而言， 這些鞋子可以穿好幾年，

But for someone running 20 miles a week,

但對於一週跑二十英里的人而言，

a pair of running shoes will start wearing out after roughly 6 months.

一雙跑鞋在大約六個月 之後就會開始磨損。

Since the shoes are made of so many different materials,

因為鞋子是由許多種 不同的材料製成，

they’re almost impossible to break down into recyclable components.

幾乎不可能拆開 成為可回收的部份。

20% of these shoes are incinerated, while the rest are tossed into landfills

這些鞋子有 20% 會被焚化， 其他的則丟到垃圾掩埋場，

where they can take up to 1,000 years to degrade.

在那裡可能要花上一千年才會分解。

So, how can we balance our love of sneakers

我們要如何在我們對運動鞋的熱愛

with the need for sustainability?

和對永續性的需求之間取得平衡？

First, designers should streamline design elements

第一，設計師應該要 將設計元素精簡，

and focus on eco-friendly materials.

並以環保材料為主。

Factories need to develop energy efficient manufacturing processes

針對合併步驟和運動鞋的各部分，

that consolidate steps and sneaker parts.

工廠得要開發能源效益高的製程。

And consumers should support companies using clean energy

消費者應該要支持使用

乾淨能源和人道製程的公司。

and ethical manufacturing processes.

We can also buy fewer shoes, wear them for longer,

我們也可以少買鞋子，穿久一點，

and donate those we no longer need.

把不要的鞋子捐出。

So no matter what your style, we can all take steps towards a sustainable future.

不論你穿哪種風格， 我們都能朝向永續的未來邁進。