The life cycle of a t-shirt - Angel Chang

Životni ciklus majice - Angel Chang

3,107,505 views

2017-09-05 ・ TED-Ed


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The life cycle of a t-shirt - Angel Chang

Životni ciklus majice - Angel Chang

3,107,505 views ・ 2017-09-05

TED-Ed


Dvaput kliknite na engleske titlove ispod za reprodukciju videozapisa.

Prevoditelj: Irma Komljenović Recezent: Ivan Stamenković
Zamisli klasičnu bijelu majicu.
00:07
Consider the classic white t-shirt.
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00:09
Annually, we sell and buy two billion t-shirts globally,
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Godišnje su širom svijeta prodane i kupljene dvije milijarde majici,
čineći ju jednim od najčešćih odjevnih predmeta na svijetu.
00:14
making it one of the most common garments in the world.
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00:17
But how and where is the average t-shirt made,
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No kako je i gdje prosječna majica napravljena,
00:20
and what's its environmental impact?
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i kakav je njen utjecaj na okoliš?
00:24
Clothing items can vary a lot,
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Postoje razni odjevni predmeti,
00:26
but a typical t-shirt begins its life on a farm in America, China, or India
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no život tipične majice počinje na farmi u Americi, Kini, ili Indiji
00:31
where cotton seeds are sown, irrigated and grown for the fluffy bolls they produce.
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gdje se posađeni pamuk, zalijeva i uzgaja zbog čupavih kuglica koje proizvodi.
00:38
Self-driving machines carefully harvest these puffs,
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Samovozeći strojevi pažljivo žanju te kuglice,
00:42
an industrial cotton gin mechanically separates the fluffy bolls from the seeds,
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industrijske egrenaljke mehanički odvajaju čupave kuglice od sjemenki,
00:47
and the cotton lint is pressed into 225-kilogram bales.
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a duga su vlakna sabijena u bale od 225 kilograma.
00:52
The cotton plants require a huge quantity of water and pesticides.
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Pamuku je kao biljki potrebna velika količina vode i pesticida.
00:56
2,700 liters of water are needed to produce the average t-shirt,
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Potrebno je 2,700 litara vode za proizvodnju prosječne majice,
01:01
enough to fill more than 30 bathtubs.
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dovoljno vode za napuniti više od 30 kada.
01:05
Meanwhile, cotton uses more insecticides and pesticides
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Pamuk istovremeno koristi više insekticida i pesticida
01:08
than any other crop in the world.
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nego bilo koji drugi usjev na svijetu.
01:11
These pollutants can be carcinogenic,
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Ti zagađivači mogu biti karcenogeni,
01:13
harm the health of field workers,
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škoditi zdravlju poljoprivrednika,
01:15
and damage surrounding ecosystems.
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i oštetiti okolne ekosustave.
01:19
Some t-shirts are made of organic cotton grown without pesticides and insecticides,
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Neke su majice od organskog pamuka uzgojenog bez pesticida i insekticida,
01:24
but organic cotton makes up less than 1%
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no organski pamuk čini manje od 1%
01:27
of the 22.7 million metric tons of cotton produced worldwide.
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od 22.7 milijuna tona pamuka proizvedenog širom svijeta.
01:33
Once the cotton bales leave the farm,
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Kad bala pamuka napusti farmu,
01:36
textile mills ship them to a spinning facility,
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tekstilni ju mlinovi šalju brodom u tvornice za predenje,
01:39
usually in China or India,
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najčešće u Kini ili Indiji,
01:41
where high-tech machines blend,
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gdje napredni strojevi miješaju,
01:44
card,
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grebenaju,
01:45
comb,
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raščešljavaju,
01:47
pull,
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razvlače,
01:48
stretch,
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rastežu,
01:49
and, finally, twist the cotton into snowy ropes of yarn called slivers.
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i, na kraju, uvijaju pamuk u bijelo predivo koje zovemo vlakna.
01:55
Then, yarns are sent to the mill,
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To je predivo poslano u mlin
01:57
where huge circular knitting machines
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gdje ga ogromni kružni strojevi za pletenje
01:59
weave them into sheets of rough grayish fabric
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utkaju u slojeve grube sivkaste tkanine
02:02
treated with heat and chemicals until they turn soft and white.
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izložene toplini i kemikalijama dok ne omekša i pobijeli.
02:08
Here, the fabric is dipped into commercial bleaches and azo dyes,
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Onda je tkanina umočena u izbjeljivač i azo boje,
02:12
which make up the vivid coloring in about 70% of textiles.
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koje su razlog jakih boja u oko 70% tekstila.
Nažalost neke od njih sadrže kancerogeni kadmij,
02:17
Unfortunately, some of these contain cancer-causing cadmium,
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02:20
lead,
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olovo,
02:21
chromium,
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krom,
02:22
and mercury.
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i živu.
02:24
Other harmful compounds and chemicals can cause widespread contamination
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Drugi štetni spojevi i kemikalije mogu uzrokovati masovno zagađanje
02:28
when released as toxic waste water in rivers and oceans.
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kad ih se pušta u rijeke i oceane kao otpadnu vodu.
02:33
Technologies are now so advanced in some countries
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Tehnologije su u nekim zemljama toliko napredne
02:36
that the entire process of growing and producing fabric
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da procesi uzgajanja i proizvodnje pamuka
02:38
barely touches a human hand.
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ne dotaknu ljudsku ruku.
02:41
But only up until this point.
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Sve do ove točke.
02:43
After the finished cloth travels to factories,
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Kad gotova tkanina doputuje do tvornica,
02:46
often in Bangladesh, China, India, or Turkey,
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često u Bangladešu, Kini, Indiji, ili Turskoj,
02:50
human labor is still required to stitch them up into t-shirts,
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potreban je ljudski rad kako bi bile sašivene u majice,
02:55
intricate work that machines just can't do.
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složen posao koji strojevi ne mogu napraviti.
02:58
This process has its own problems.
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I ovaj proces ima svoje mane.
03:00
Bangladesh, for example,
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Bangladeš, recimo,
03:02
which has surpassed China as the world's biggest exporter of cotton t-shirts,
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koji je nadmašio Kinu kao najveći izvoznik pamučnih majici na svijetu,
03:06
employs 4.5 million people in the t-shirt industry,
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zapošljava 4.5 milijuna ljudi u industriji pravljenja majici,
03:11
but they typically face poor conditions and low wages.
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no najčešće su suočeni s lošim uvjetima i lošim plaćama.
03:16
After manufacture, all those t-shirts travel by ship, train, and truck
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Poslije proizvodnje, sve te majice putuje brodom, vlakom ili kamionom
03:20
to be sold in high-income countries,
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do zemalja s visokim prihodima, gdje će biti prodane,
03:23
a process that gives cotton an enormous carbon footprint.
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proces zbog kojeg pamuk ima ogroman ugljični otisak.
03:27
Some countries produce their own clothing domestically,
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Neke države proizvode svoju odjeću u zemlji,
03:30
which cuts out this polluting stage,
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što isključuje ovaj zagađujući korak,
03:32
but generally, apparel production accounts for 10% of global carbon emissions.
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no proizvodnja odjeće uzrok je 10% svjetskih emisija ugljika.
I znatno se povećava.
03:38
And it's escalating.
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03:40
Cheaper garments and the public's willingness to buy
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Zbog jeftinije odjeće i volje javnosti za kupovinom
03:43
boosted global production from 1994 to 2014 by 400%
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globalna proizvodnja porasla je od 1994. do 2014. za 400%
03:50
to around 80 billion garments each year.
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do 80-ak milijardi odjevnih predmeta godišnje.
03:55
Finally, in a consumer's home,
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Konačno, u domu potrošača
03:57
the t-shirt goes through one of the most resource-intensive phases of its lifetime.
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majica prolazi kroz fazu u kojoj troši najviše resursa.
04:02
In America, for instance,
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U Americi, na primjer,
04:04
the average household does nearly 400 loads of laundry per year
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u prosječnom kućanstvu godišnje je oprano oko 400 hrpa rublja,
04:08
each using about 40 gallons of water.
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a svaka koristi oko 150 litara vode.
04:12
Washing machines and dryers both use energy,
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Perilice i sušilice koriste energiju,
04:14
with dryers requiring five to six times more than washers.
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s time da je sušilici potrebno pet ili šest puta više energije nego perilici.
04:20
This dramatic shift in clothing consumption over the last 20 years,
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Ta dramatična promjena u potrošnji odjeće u zadnjih 20 godina,
04:23
driven by large corporations and the trend of fast fashion
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uzrokovana velikim korporacijama i trendom brze mode,
04:27
has cost the environment,
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naštetila je okolišu,
04:29
the health of farmers,
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zdravlju farmera,
04:31
and driven questionable human labor practices.
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i dovela do kontroverznog izrabljivanja ljudi.
04:35
It's also turned fashion into the second largest polluter in the world after oil.
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Također je modu dovela na mjesto drugog najvećeg onečišćivača na svijetu, nakon nafte.
04:40
But there are things we can do.
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No postoje stvari koje možemo učiniti.
04:42
Consider shopping secondhand.
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Uzmi u obzir kupovanje polovne odjeće.
04:45
Try to look for textiles made from recycled or organic fabrics.
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Potraži tekstile napravljene od recikliranih i organskih tkanina.
04:49
Wash clothes less and line dry to save resources.
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Rjeđe peri odjeću i suši ju na zraku zbog očuvanja resursa.
04:53
Instead of throwing them away at the end of their life,
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Umjesto da ih na kraju njihova života baciš,
04:55
donate, recycle, or reuse them as cleaning rags.
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doniraj ih, recikliraj ili ponovno iskoristi kao krpe za čišćenje.
05:00
And, finally, you might ask yourself,
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I, za kraj, pitaj se
05:02
how many t-shirts and articles of clothing will you consume over your lifetime,
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koliko ćeš majici i odjevnih predmeta imati tijekom života,
05:06
and what will be their combined impact on the world?
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i kakav će biti njihov zajednički utjecaj na svijet?
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