The four fish we're overeating -- and what to eat instead | Paul Greenberg

167,177 views ・ 2016-01-13

TED


請雙擊下方英文字幕播放視頻。

譯者: 杏儀 歐陽 審譯者: 易帆 余
00:12
So when I was a kid ...
0
12880
2176
童年的時候,
00:15
this was my team.
1
15080
1296
它們就是我的玩伴。
00:16
(Laughter)
2
16400
1176
(笑聲)
00:17
I stunk at sports.
3
17600
2016
我運動很差勁,
00:19
I didn't like to play them, I didn't like to watch them.
4
19640
3216
我不喜歡做體育運動, 也不喜歡看別人運動。
00:22
So this is what I did. I went fishing.
5
22880
2256
所以我就選擇去釣魚。
00:25
And for all of my growing up I fished on the shores of Connecticut,
6
25160
3496
我的成長記憶, 都是在康涅狄格州岸邊釣魚,
00:28
and these are the creatures that I saw on a regular basis.
7
28680
3200
而這些生物, 就是我常常遇到的玩伴。
00:32
But after I grew up and went to college,
8
32600
2616
但長大之後,我上了大學,
00:35
and I came home in the early 90's,
9
35240
2656
90年代初,我回到家時,
00:37
this is what I found.
10
37920
1696
我卻發現:
00:39
My team had shrunk.
11
39640
1616
我的玩伴減少了。
00:41
It was like literally having your roster devastated.
12
41280
3095
少得不成隊形。
00:44
And as I sort of looked into that,
13
44400
2016
當我開始從釣客的個人角度
00:46
from a very personal point of view as a fisherman,
14
46440
2376
去調查這件事時,
00:48
I started to kind of figure out,
15
48840
1576
我開始有點想了解,
00:50
well, what was the rest of the world thinking about it?
16
50440
2576
究竟...世界上其他人 對這件事情是怎麼想的?
00:53
First place I started to look was fish markets.
17
53040
2216
我首先去看的地方是魚市。
00:55
And when I went to fish markets,
18
55280
1776
當我去了魚市場,
00:57
in spite of where I was --
19
57080
1256
無論是哪裡的魚市場,
00:58
whether I was in North Carolina, or Paris, or London, or wherever --
20
58360
4056
南卡羅琳娜的、巴黎的、 倫敦的、還有其他地方的,
01:02
I kept seeing this weirdly repeating trope of four creatures,
21
62440
5176
我不斷地看到這四種生物 奇異地重複組合出現,
01:07
again and again --
22
67640
1216
一次又一次地出現
01:08
on the menus, on ice --
23
68880
1576
在菜單上、在冰上:
01:10
shrimp, tuna, salmon and cod.
24
70480
2856
蝦,鮪魚,鮭魚和鱈魚。
01:13
And I thought this was pretty strange,
25
73360
2376
我覺得這樣相當奇怪,
01:15
and as I looked at it, I was wondering,
26
75760
2016
在調查時,我就想:
01:17
did anyone else notice this sort of shrinking of the market?
27
77800
3616
難道沒有別人注意到 市面上的海鮮種類在減少嗎?
01:21
Well, when I looked into it,
28
81440
1376
是的,當我深入調查時,
01:22
I realized that people didn't look at it as their team.
29
82840
2896
我發現人們並沒有 把魚看成他們的玩伴,
01:25
Ordinary people, the way they looked at seafood was like this.
30
85760
3656
普通人眼中的海鮮是這樣的。
01:29
It's not an unusual human characteristic
31
89440
2456
這是人之常情,
01:31
to reduce the natural world down to very few elements.
32
91920
3696
人們喜歡將自然界 精簡成寥寥幾個元素。
01:35
We did it before, 10,000 years ago, when we came out of our caves.
33
95640
3296
一萬年前,從洞穴人進化時, 我們就是這樣子,
01:38
If you look at fire pits from 10,000 years ago,
34
98960
2536
一萬年前的煮食火堆遺跡裡,
01:41
you'll see raccoons, you'll see, you know, wolves,
35
101520
2576
你可以發現浣熊、狼,
01:44
you'll see all kinds of different creatures.
36
104120
2056
各種各樣的生物都有,
01:46
But if you telescope to the age of -- you know, 2,000 years ago,
37
106200
3656
但,要是近觀到兩千年前,
01:49
you'll see these four mammals:
38
109880
1896
你會看到這四種哺乳類動物:
01:51
pigs, cows, sheep and goats.
39
111800
2416
豬、牛、綿羊、山羊。
01:54
It's true of birds, too.
40
114240
1216
還有一些鳥類。
01:55
You look at the menus in New York City restaurants
41
115480
2816
紐約市餐館裡的菜單,
01:58
150 years ago, 200 years ago,
42
118320
1896
在150年前、200年前,
02:00
you'll see snipe, woodcock, grouse, dozens of ducks, dozens of geese.
43
120240
4736
賣的是鷸、山鷸、松雞, 鴨和鵝更是居多,
02:05
But telescope ahead to the age of modern animal husbandry,
44
125000
2936
但再看看現代畜牧業,
02:07
and you'll see four:
45
127960
1376
大家會看到四種生物:
02:09
turkeys, ducks, chicken and geese.
46
129360
2040
火雞、鴨、雞、鵝。
02:12
So it makes sense that we've headed in this direction.
47
132480
2576
因此我們今天之所以這樣, 是可以理解的。
02:15
But how have we headed in this direction?
48
135080
1953
但我們到底是如何走到這一步呢?
02:17
Well ...
49
137057
1199
嗯...
02:18
first it's a very, very new problem.
50
138280
1856
首先這是一個相當新起的問題。
02:20
This is the way we've been fishing the oceans over the last 50 years.
51
140160
3736
我們在過去50年裡 就一直這樣在海裡捕魚。
02:23
World War II was a tremendous incentive to arm ourselves in a war against fish.
52
143920
5216
二戰給了我們極大的動力 來武裝自己、對付魚類。
02:29
All of the technology that we perfected during World War II --
53
149160
3256
我們在二戰期間完善了所有科技,
02:32
sonar, lightweight polymers --
54
152440
1656
例如聲納、輕質聚合物,
02:34
all these things were redirected towards fish.
55
154120
2296
都被轉換成用來對付魚類。
02:36
And so you see this tremendous buildup in fishing capacity,
56
156440
3416
所以你可以看到 捕撈量的驚人增長,
02:39
quadrupling in the course of time,
57
159880
1656
自二戰結束至今,
02:41
from the end of World War II to the present time.
58
161560
2896
短時間裡就翻了兩番。
02:44
And right now that means
59
164480
1376
也就是說,
02:45
we're taking between 80 and 90 million metric tons out of the sea every year.
60
165880
3656
我們現在的年均捕魚量 在 8~9千萬噸之間。
02:49
That's the equivalent of the human weight of China
61
169560
3216
這相當於每年從海裡撈出 全體中國人的重量。
02:52
taken out of the sea every year.
62
172800
1536
02:54
And it's no coincidence that I use China as the example
63
174360
2616
我用中國做例子, 不是純屬巧合,
02:57
because China is now the largest fishing nation in the world.
64
177000
3016
因為中國目前是世界上 捕魚量最大的國家。
03:00
Well, that's only half the story.
65
180040
1616
這只不過是故事的一半。
03:01
The other half of the story
66
181680
1376
故事的另一半是,
03:03
is this incredible boom in fish farming and aquaculture,
67
183080
4056
魚類養殖和水產養殖快速增長,
03:07
which is now, only in the last year or two,
68
187160
2216
在過去短短一兩年時間內,
03:09
starting to exceed the amount of wild fish that we produce.
69
189400
3376
就開始超過野生魚的產量。
03:12
So that if you add wild fish and farmed fish together,
70
192800
4016
所以野生魚和養殖魚加在一起,
03:16
you get the equivalent of two Chinas created from the ocean
71
196840
3456
就等同每年從海裡產出 全體中國人總重量的兩倍。
03:20
each and every year.
72
200320
1256
03:21
And again, it's not a coincidence that I use China as the example,
73
201600
3136
再次,我用中國做例子, 不是純屬巧合,
03:24
because China, in addition to being the biggest catcher of fish,
74
204760
3056
因為中國不僅是最大的捕魚國,
03:27
is also the biggest farmer of fish.
75
207840
2080
還是最大的魚類養殖國。
03:30
So let's look though at the four choices we are making right now.
76
210840
4536
來看看現在我們選擇的四種魚類:
03:35
The first one --
77
215400
1216
首先
03:36
by far the most consumed seafood in America and in much of the West,
78
216640
3696
在美國和許多西方國家 目前消耗最多的海鮮是
03:40
is shrimp.
79
220360
1216
蝦。
03:41
Shrimp in the wild -- as a wild product --
80
221600
2456
野生蝦在野生產品當中,
03:44
is a terrible product.
81
224080
1336
是一種糟糕的產品。
03:45
5, 10, 15 pounds of wild fish are regularly killed
82
225440
4456
一般要殺5、10、15磅的野生魚類
03:49
to bring one pound of shrimp to the market.
83
229920
2416
才能給市場帶來 1 磅蝦。
03:52
They're also incredibly fuel inefficient to bring to the market.
84
232360
3096
而且蝦的運輸燃油效率極低。
03:55
In a recent study that was produced out of Dalhousie University,
85
235480
3096
達爾豪斯大學最近的一項研究發現,
03:58
it was found that dragging for shrimp
86
238600
1816
拖網捕蝦,
04:00
is one of the most carbon-intensive ways of fishing that you can find.
87
240440
3840
是二氧化碳排放最高的捕魚方式之一。
04:04
So you can farm them,
88
244640
1656
你可以養殖蝦,
04:06
and people do farm them,
89
246320
1256
的確有人養蝦,
04:07
and they farm them a lot in this very area.
90
247600
2016
而且在這一帶養得特別多。
04:09
Problem is ...
91
249640
1216
但問題是,
04:10
the place where you farm shrimp is in these wild habitats --
92
250880
3216
養蝦是在野生棲息地養,
04:14
in mangrove forests.
93
254120
1216
在紅樹林裡面養。
04:15
Now look at those lovely roots coming down.
94
255360
2056
大家看看那些往下生長的樹根。
04:17
Those are the things that hold soil together,
95
257440
2096
這些樹根鞏固土壤,
04:19
protect coasts, create habitats for all sorts of young fish, young shrimp,
96
259560
3776
保護海線,為各種小魚蝦 以及各種生物創造棲息地,
04:23
all sorts of things that are important to this environment.
97
263360
2777
而這些生物亦同時維護這個環境。
04:26
Well, this is what happens to a lot of coastal mangrove forests.
98
266161
3000
但是,許多沿海紅樹林 卻落得此下場。
04:29
We've lost millions of acres of coastal mangroves
99
269185
2310
在過去30-40年裡,
我們喪失了上百萬畝的沿海紅樹林。
04:31
over the last 30 or 40 years.
100
271519
1416
04:32
That rate of destruction has slowed,
101
272959
2457
破壞率雖然有減緩,
04:35
but we're still in a major mangrove deficit.
102
275440
2600
但是我們仍然損失了太多的紅樹林。
04:38
The other thing that's going on here
103
278760
1736
目前另外一個狀況是
04:40
is a phenomenon that the filmmaker Mark Benjamin called "Grinding Nemo."
104
280520
3560
電影製作人Mark Benjamin所稱的 「海底碎魚總動員」現象。
04:44
This phenomenon is very, very relevant
105
284680
2496
這個現象,對於你在熱帶珊瑚礁上 看到過的生物來說,至關重要。
04:47
to anything that you've ever seen on a tropical reef.
106
287200
2496
04:49
Because what's going on right now,
107
289720
1656
因為目前捕蝦,
04:51
we have shrimp draggers dragging for shrimp,
108
291400
2176
我們用拖蝦網去捕蝦,
04:53
catching a huge amount of bycatch,
109
293600
1856
同時又兼捕大量副漁獲,
04:55
that bycatch in turn gets ground up and turned into shrimp food.
110
295480
4096
這些副漁獲會被碾碎做蝦飼料。
04:59
And sometimes, many of these vessels --
111
299600
2136
有時許多這些漁船,
05:01
manned by slaves --
112
301760
1376
都是奴工在​​工作--
05:03
are catching these so-called "trash fish,"
113
303160
2696
亦會捕獲到所謂的「垃圾魚」,
05:05
fish that we would love to see on a reef,
114
305880
1953
我們喜歡在珊瑚礁上看到的魚,
05:07
grinding them up
115
307857
1199
然後將它們碾碎,
05:09
and turning them into shrimp feed --
116
309080
1750
將它們變成蝦飼料,
05:10
an ecosystem literally eating itself and spitting out shrimp.
117
310864
3470
一個自己吃自己、自動產蝦 的生態系統。
美國消費量第二大的海鮮,
05:15
The next most consumed seafood in America,
118
315120
2176
05:17
and also throughout the West,
119
317320
1696
亦備受西方國家喜愛,
05:19
is tuna.
120
319040
1216
鮪魚(也叫吞拿魚、金槍魚)
05:20
So tuna is this ultimate global fish.
121
320280
3056
鮪魚是頂級的全球性魚類。
05:23
These huge management areas have to be observed
122
323360
3016
這些大範圍的管理區域必須接受監測,
05:26
in order for tuna to be well managed.
123
326400
1936
目的是更好地管理對鮪魚的捕撈。
05:28
Our own management area,
124
328360
1776
我們的「區域漁業管理組織」,
05:30
called a Regional Fisheries Management Organization,
125
330160
2456
05:32
is called ICCAT,
126
332640
1216
簡稱「ICCAT」,
05:33
the International Commission for the Conservation of Atlantic Tunas.
127
333880
3216
「大西洋鮪類保育委員會」的簡稱。
05:37
The great naturalist Carl Safina once called it,
128
337120
2696
偉大的自然學家 Carl Safina曾經戲稱為:
05:39
"The International Conspiracy to Catch all the Tunas."
129
339840
3256
「撈光所有鮪魚的國際陰謀會」。
05:43
Of course we've seen incredible improvement
130
343120
2056
當然,我們看到ICCAT
05:45
in ICCAT in the last few years,
131
345200
1496
在過去兩年的巨大進步,
05:46
there is total room for improvement,
132
346720
1736
雖然還有很大的改善空間,
05:48
but it remains to be said that tuna is a global fish,
133
348480
2896
鮪魚是不是全球性魚類 雖仍有待商榷,
05:51
and to manage it, we have to manage the globe.
134
351400
2816
但要管理它, 我們就必須全球管理,
05:54
Well, we could also try to grow tuna
135
354240
1936
我們也可以試試養殖鮪魚,
05:56
but tuna is a spectacularly bad animal for aquaculture.
136
356200
3160
但鮪魚極不適合水產養殖。
05:59
Many people don't know this but tuna are warm-blooded.
137
359840
3096
很多人可能不知道, 其實鮪魚是溫血動物。
06:02
They can heat their bodies 20 degrees above ambient temperature,
138
362960
3416
它們可以使自己身體的溫度 比環境溫度高20度,
06:06
they can swim at over 40 miles an hour.
139
366400
2096
鮪魚可以每小時游40英里。
06:08
So that pretty much eliminates
140
368520
1736
所以這把養殖魚類的優點 完全消滅了,對吧?
06:10
all the advantages of farming a fish, right?
141
370280
2096
06:12
A farmed fish is --
142
372400
1216
水產養殖魚或者一般魚
06:13
or a fish is cold-blooded, it doesn't move too much.
143
373640
2429
都是冷血動物,不怎麼運動。
06:16
That's a great thing for growing protein.
144
376093
2003
這有利於蛋白質生長。
06:18
But if you've got this crazy, wild creature
145
378120
2336
但要養殖這瘋狂野生動物,
06:20
that swims at 40 miles an hour and heats its blood --
146
380480
2496
每小時游40英里, 又要溫熱血液,
06:23
not a great candidate for aquaculture.
147
383000
2320
恐怕這對水產養殖來說 不是個好選擇。
06:25
The next creature --
148
385760
1216
美國和西方國家消費最多的 另一種海鮮是
06:27
most consumed seafood in America and throughout the West --
149
387000
2976
06:30
is salmon.
150
390000
1216
鮭魚(也稱三文魚)。
06:31
Now salmon got its plundering, too,
151
391240
2176
目前鮭魚也很搶手,
06:33
but it didn't really necessarily happen through fishing.
152
393440
3136
但是不必通過漁業來捕捉。
06:36
This is my home state of Connecticut.
153
396600
1776
我來自康州。
06:38
Connecticut used to be home to a lot of wild salmon.
154
398400
3056
康州以前是大量野生鮭魚的棲身地。
06:41
But if you look at this map of Connecticut,
155
401480
2056
但看看康州的這張地圖,
06:43
every dot on that map is a dam.
156
403560
3000
地圖上每個點代表一個堤壩。
06:47
There are over 3,000 dams in the state of Connecticut.
157
407400
3856
康州有超過3,000個堤壩。
06:51
I often say this is why people in Connecticut are so uptight --
158
411280
3536
我常說這就是為什麼 康州人脾氣這麼爆躁--
06:54
(Laughter)
159
414840
1576
(笑聲)
06:56
If somebody could just unblock Connecticut's chi,
160
416440
3536
要是有人能把康州通通氣,
07:00
I feel that we could have an infinitely better world.
161
420000
2496
我覺得我們會有 一個更美好的世界。
07:02
But I made this particular comment
162
422520
1736
但是有次我對一個國家公園 的工作人員提了這個提議,
07:04
at a convention once of national parks officers,
163
424280
2656
07:06
and this guy from North Carolina sidled up to me, he says,
164
426960
2736
有個來自南卡州的人 就走過來跟我說:
07:09
"You know, you oughtn't be so hard on your Connecticut,
165
429720
3296
「你可不要太跟你的康州過不去,
07:13
cause we here in North Carolina, we got 35,000 dams."
166
433040
4816
你看我們南卡州這裡, 有3萬5千個堤壩呢。」
07:17
So it's a national epidemic, it's an international epidemic.
167
437880
2856
所以說美國有個堤壩流行病, 這也是個全球流行病。
07:20
And there are dams everywhere,
168
440760
1456
堤壩無處不在,
07:22
and these are precisely the things
169
442240
1656
就是這些堤壩,
07:23
that stop wild salmon from reaching their spawning grounds.
170
443920
2776
讓野生鮭魚無法到達產卵地。
07:26
So as a result, we've turned to aquaculture,
171
446720
2096
因此我們就轉靠水產養殖,
07:28
and salmon is one the most successful, at least from a numbers point of view.
172
448840
3656
而鮭魚是最成功的水產魚類, 至少從數字上看是最成功的。
07:32
When they first started farming salmon,
173
452520
2216
人們剛開始養殖鮭魚時,
07:34
it could take as many as six pounds of wild fish
174
454760
2936
要消耗多達 6 磅野生魚,
07:37
to make a single pound of salmon.
175
457720
2176
才能產出 1 磅鮭魚。
07:39
The industry has, to its credit, greatly improved.
176
459920
2656
鮭魚養殖業的確大有進步。
07:42
They've gotten it below two to one,
177
462600
1667
現在是消耗 2 磅產 1 磅,
07:44
although it's a little bit of a cheat
178
464291
2285
雖然這其中有一點欺騙性,
07:46
because if you look at the way aquaculture feed is produced,
179
466600
2816
因為養殖飼料的生產方式,
07:49
they're measuring pellets --
180
469440
1456
是用顆粒計算的,
07:50
pounds of pellets per pound of salmon.
181
470920
2256
飼料的磅數比鮭魚的磅數。
07:53
Those pellets are in turn reduced fish.
182
473200
2656
而飼料也是用魚製造的。
07:55
So the actual -- what's called the FIFO, the fish in and the fish out --
183
475880
3496
所以實際魚的投入和產出比-- 簡稱為 FIFO--
07:59
kind of hard to say.
184
479400
1336
就很難說出一個正確數字。
08:00
But in any case,
185
480760
1216
但無論如何,
08:02
credit to the industry,
186
482000
1216
養殖業功勞很大,
08:03
it has lowered the amount of fish per pound of salmon.
187
483240
2576
降低了生產每磅鮭魚所需的魚量。
08:05
Problem is we've also gone crazy
188
485840
2176
問題是:目前我們的鮭魚產量 也開始有點瘋狂了。
08:08
with the amount of salmon that we're producing.
189
488040
2216
08:10
Aquaculture is the fastest growing food system on the planet.
190
490280
3616
水產業是全球發展最快的食物系統。
08:13
It's growing at something like seven percent per year.
191
493920
2976
年均增長率約為7%。
08:16
And so even though we're doing less per fish
192
496920
4016
雖然我們消耗更少的魚,
08:20
to bring it to the market,
193
500960
1296
產出更多的鮭魚,
08:22
we're still killing a lot of these little fish.
194
502280
2736
我們還是在捕殺很多小魚。
08:25
And it's not just fish that we're feeding fish to,
195
505040
3176
而且我們不僅用魚來餵魚,
08:28
we're also feeding fish to chickens and pigs.
196
508240
2600
我們也用魚餵雞和豬。
08:31
So we've got chickens and they're eating fish,
197
511600
2936
所以我們吃雞,雞吃魚,
08:34
but weirdly, we also have fish that are eating chickens.
198
514560
4256
但見怪不怪,我們也有魚吃雞,
08:38
Because the byproducts of chickens -- feathers, blood, bone --
199
518840
3096
因為雞的副產品: 雞毛、雞血、雞骨,
08:41
get ground up and fed to fish.
200
521960
2296
會被碾碎用來餵魚。
08:44
So I often wonder,
201
524280
1216
所以我經常想,
08:45
is there a fish that ate a chicken that ate a fish?
202
525520
3240
有沒有魚吃過吃過魚的雞?
08:49
It's sort of a reworking of the chicken and egg thing. Anyway --
203
529360
3016
好像雞生蛋蛋生雞的問題。好吧——
08:52
(Laughter)
204
532400
1096
(笑聲)
08:53
All together, though, it results in a terrible mess.
205
533520
2776
總的來說,結果是非常糟糕的。
08:56
What you're talking about
206
536320
1376
我們看到的是,
08:57
is something between 20 and 30 million metric tons of wild creatures
207
537720
5656
2 - 3千萬公噸的野生動物
09:03
that are taken from the ocean and used and ground up.
208
543400
2976
從海裡捕撈出來, 被碾碎使用。
09:06
That's the equivalent of a third of a China,
209
546400
2056
也就是三分之一中國人的重量,
09:08
or of an entire United States of humans
210
548480
2056
或者是整個美國的總人口體重,
09:10
that's taken out of the sea each and every year.
211
550560
2400
每年從海裡被撈出來。
09:14
The last of the four is a kind of amorphous thing.
212
554160
2536
四種魚裡的最後一種, 定義有點模糊,
09:16
It's what the industry calls "whitefish."
213
556720
3496
業界一般稱為「白魚」。
09:20
There are many fish that get cycled into this whitefish thing
214
560240
2976
很多種魚最後變成了所謂的「白魚」,
09:23
but the way to kind of tell the story, I think,
215
563240
2216
但要解釋個中故事,
09:25
is through that classic piece of American culinary innovation,
216
565480
2936
要先提一下美國飲食 的革命性發明:
09:28
the Filet-O-Fish sandwich.
217
568440
1376
麥香魚堡。
09:29
So the Filet-O-Fish sandwich actually started as halibut.
218
569840
2976
麥香魚堡一開始用的是大比目魚。
09:32
And it started because a local franchise owner
219
572840
2336
原因是當時一個本地食店老闆發現
09:35
found that when he served his McDonald's on Friday, nobody came.
220
575200
5536
星期五他的麥當勞店沒有顧客。
09:40
Because it was a Catholic community, they needed fish.
221
580760
2536
因為當地人信基督教,需要吃魚。
09:43
So he went to Ray Kroc and he said,
222
583320
1856
所以他去找Ray Kro,說:
09:45
"I'm going to bring you a fish sandwich, going to be made out of halibut."
223
585200
3496
「我要做一種魚肉堡, 用大比目魚做。」
09:48
Ray Kroc said, "I don't think it's going to work.
224
588720
2296
Ray Kroc就說:「我看不太好吧!」
09:51
I want to do a Hula Burger,
225
591040
1296
「我想做一種呼拉漢堡,
09:52
and there's going to be a slice of pineapple on a bun.
226
592360
2524
在麵包上放一片菠蘿。
09:54
But let's do this, let's have a bet.
227
594908
1736
我們倆各做各的, 打賭看誰贏。
09:56
Whosever sandwich sells more, that will be the winning sandwich."
228
596668
3508
誰的漢堡賣得多, 誰的漢堡是冠軍漢堡。」
10:00
Well, it's kind of sad for the ocean that the Hula Burger didn't win.
229
600200
4336
哎,呼拉漢堡最後沒有贏, 對大海真是件悲傷的事,
10:04
So he made his halibut sandwich.
230
604560
2136
所以他就做了比目魚堡。
10:06
Unfortunately though, the sandwich came in at 30 cents.
231
606720
3336
不過不妙的是, 魚堡賣30美分一個,
10:10
Ray wanted the sandwich to come in at 25 cents,
232
610080
2536
Ray想要做到25美分。
10:12
so he turned to Atlantic cod.
233
612640
1936
所以他就去用大西洋鱈魚。
10:14
We all know what happened to Atlantic cod in New England.
234
614600
2776
新英格蘭的大西洋鱈魚, 不用說大家都知道。
10:17
So now the Filet-O-Fish sandwich is made out of Alaska pollock,
235
617400
3496
所以如今的麥香魚堡 用的是阿拉斯加黃線狹鱈,
10:20
it's the largest fin fish fishery in the United States,
236
620920
2736
它是美國捕撈量最大的魚類,
10:23
2 to 3 billion pounds of fish taken out of the sea every single year.
237
623680
4376
每年捕撈20到30億磅。
10:28
If we go through the pollock,
238
628080
1536
如果黃線狹鱈撈完了,
10:29
the next choice is probably going to be tilapia.
239
629640
2456
下一個選擇應該就是羅非魚。
10:32
Tilapia is one of those fish nobody ever heard of 20 years ago.
240
632120
2976
羅非魚在20年前不出名,
10:35
It's actually a very efficient converter of plant protein into animal protein,
241
635120
4256
但可以非常有效地將植物蛋白質 轉為動物蛋白質,
10:39
and it's been a godsend to the third world.
242
639400
2056
羅非魚一直是第三世界的福音。
10:41
It's actually a tremendously sustainable solution,
243
641480
2376
它其實是一種極好的 可持續發展解決方案,
10:43
it goes from an egg to an adult in nine months.
244
643880
2216
它從卵成長為成魚只需九個月。
10:46
The problem is that when you look about the West,
245
646120
2336
問題是從西方角度看,
10:48
it doesn't do what the West wants it to do.
246
648480
2016
羅非魚卻沒有西方想要的特點。
10:50
It really doesn't have what's called an oily fish profile.
247
650520
2736
羅非魚沒有所謂的“魚油”賣點。
10:53
It doesn't have the EPA and DHA omega-3s
248
653280
2376
也沒有EPA,DHA、 omega-3不飽和脂肪酸,
10:55
that we all think are going to make us live forever.
249
655680
3296
這些我們覺得吃了 可以長生不老的東西。
10:59
So what do we do?
250
659000
1496
那我們該怎麼辦?
11:00
I mean, first of all, what about this poor fish, the clupeids?
251
660520
3176
首先來說, 這種小魚怎麼樣,鯡魚?
11:03
The fish that represent a huge part of that 20 to 30 million metric tons.
252
663720
4440
在上面提到的二、三千萬噸裡, 這種魚占了很大比例。
11:08
Well, one possibility that a lot of conservationists have raised
253
668760
3056
許多保護主義者 都提到這種可能性,
11:11
is could we eat them?
254
671840
1616
我們可以吃鯡魚嗎?
11:13
Could we eat them directly instead of feeding them to salmon?
255
673480
2896
我們可不可以直接吃它, 而不是用來餵鮭魚?
11:16
There are arguments for it.
256
676400
1336
這有些爭論。
11:17
They are tremendously fuel efficient to bring to market,
257
677760
2620
鯡魚的燃油經濟性極高,
11:20
a fraction of the fuel cost of say, shrimp,
258
680404
2092
只佔蝦的燃油費用的冰山一角,
11:22
and at the very top of the carbon efficiency scale.
259
682520
3336
碳效率的排名也相當可觀。
11:25
They also are omega-3 rich, a great source for EPA and DHA.
260
685880
4136
鯡魚含豐富EPA、DHA、 omega-3不飽和脂肪酸。
11:30
So that is a potential.
261
690040
1456
所以鯡魚有潛力。
11:31
And if we were to go down that route what I would say is,
262
691520
3696
如果我們從這點說開來, 我想說的是,
11:35
instead of paying a few bucks a pound -- or a few bucks a ton, really --
263
695240
3816
與其在每磅上支出幾美元-- 實際是每噸幾美元--
11:39
and making it into aquafeed,
264
699080
1976
用來把鯡魚變成魚飼料,
11:41
could we halve the catch and double the price for the fishermen
265
701080
3296
我們是不是可以將捕撈量減半, 讓漁民的售價提升一倍,
11:44
and make that our way of treating these particular fish?
266
704400
4120
以此作為我們對待 這些魚類的做法嗎?
11:49
Other possibility though, which is much more interesting,
267
709200
2696
另外一個選擇更有趣:
11:51
is looking at bivalves, particularly mussels.
268
711920
2376
雙殼貝類,特別是貽貝。
11:54
Now, mussels are very high in EPA and DHA, they're similar to canned tuna.
269
714320
4936
貽貝含豐富EPA和DHA, 跟鮪魚罐頭相似。
11:59
They're also extremely fuel efficient.
270
719280
1936
貽貝的燃油經濟性也極高。
12:01
To bring a pound of mussels to market
271
721240
1816
上市一磅貽貝的碳排放,
12:03
is about a thirtieth of the carbon as required to bring beef to market.
272
723080
3616
只有上市一磅牛肉的十三分之一。
12:06
They require no forage fish,
273
726720
1576
它們也不用吃魚,
12:08
they actually get their omega-3s by filtering the water of microalgae.
274
728320
4256
它們實際上可以過濾水中的藻類 得到自己的omega-3不飽和脂肪酸。
12:12
In fact, that's where omega-3s come from, they don't come from fish.
275
732600
3216
這其實是omega-3不飽和脂肪酸 的來源,而不是魚。
12:15
Microalgae make the omega-3s, they're only bioconcentrated in fish.
276
735840
4056
omega-3不飽和脂肪酸由藻類製造, 它們在魚類體內進行生物富集,
12:19
Mussels and other bivalves
277
739920
1256
貽貝和其他雙殼類
12:21
do tremendous amounts of water filtration.
278
741200
2000
能過濾大量的水。
12:23
A single mussel can filter dozens of gallons every single day.
279
743224
3552
一個貽貝每天可以過濾幾十加侖水。
12:26
And this is incredibly important when we look at the world.
280
746800
2776
這對地球的發展相當重要。
12:29
Right now, nitrification, overuse of phosphates in our waterways
281
749600
3576
如今,水體中過量的氮和磷
12:33
are causing tremendous algal blooms.
282
753200
2336
使得藻類大量繁殖。
12:35
Over 400 new dead zones have been created in the last 20 years,
283
755560
4256
過去20年裡新形成的死水區 有超過400個,
12:39
tremendous sources of marine life death.
284
759840
3600
造成大量的海洋生物死亡。
12:44
We also could look at not a fish at all.
285
764320
2176
我們還可以完全不考慮魚類,
12:46
We could look at a vegetable.
286
766520
1416
我們可以考慮植物,
12:47
We could look at seaweed, the kelps,
287
767960
1736
我們可以吃海帶,褐藻,
12:49
all these different varieties of things that can be high in omega-3s,
288
769720
3336
它們有許多不同品種, 均富含ω-3不飽和脂肪酸,
12:53
can be high in proteins,
289
773080
1296
富含蛋白質,
12:54
tremendously good things.
290
774400
1616
極好的優質食品。
12:56
They filter the water just like mussels do.
291
776040
2656
這些植物可以像貽貝那樣過濾水。
12:58
And weirdly enough,
292
778720
1256
而且信不信由你,
13:00
it turns out that you can actually feed this to cows.
293
780000
2616
你還可以用海帶來餵牛。
13:02
Now, I'm not a big fan of cattle.
294
782640
2216
我不是那麼喜歡吃牛。
13:04
But if you wanted to keep growing cattle
295
784880
1936
但要是你想養牛,
13:06
in a time and place where water resources are limited,
296
786840
2816
但是養殖時間和地點 不能提供很多水源,
13:09
you're growing seaweed in the water, you don't have to water it --
297
789680
3096
你可以在水裡養海草, 又不需要去澆水——
13:12
major consideration.
298
792800
1656
這點很重要。
13:14
And the last fish is a question mark.
299
794480
2736
最後一種魚是一個問號。
13:17
We have the ability to create aquacultured fish
300
797240
3856
我們現在有能力 去創造一種水產養殖魚,
13:21
that creates a net gain of marine protein for us.
301
801120
3416
給我們帶來豐富海洋蛋白。
13:24
This creature would have to be vegetarian,
302
804560
2136
這種魚要只吃植物,
13:26
it would have to be fast growing,
303
806720
1776
又要生長得很快,
13:28
it would have to be adaptable to a changing climate
304
808520
2656
既要容易適應氣候變化,
13:31
and it would have to have that oily fish profile,
305
811200
2336
又要有油性魚類的好處,
13:33
that EPA, DHA, omega-3 fatty acid profile that we're looking for.
306
813560
3896
給我們帶來EPA、DHA、 omega-3不飽和脂肪酸。
13:37
This exists kind of on paper.
307
817480
2936
這似乎只存在於紙面上。
13:40
I have been reporting on these subjects for 15 years.
308
820440
3616
過去15年我一直報導這類話題。
13:44
Every time I do a new story, somebody tells me,
309
824080
2896
每次我做一個新報導, 人們就說:
13:47
"We can do all that. We can do it. We've figured it all out.
310
827000
2856
「這些我們都可以做到。沒問題。 我們已經有辦法了。」
13:49
We can produce a fish
311
829880
1216
「我們可以生產一種魚,
13:51
that's a net gain of marine protein and has omega-3s."
312
831120
2576
富含海洋蛋白和 omega-3不飽和脂肪酸。」
13:53
Great.
313
833720
1216
了不起。
13:54
It doesn't seem to be getting scaled up.
314
834960
2136
但好像做不成規模。
13:57
It is time to scale this up.
315
837120
1736
是時候要把這規模做大。
13:58
If we do,
316
838880
1216
要是做到,
14:00
30 million metric tons of seafood, a third of the world catch,
317
840120
3496
三千萬噸海鮮, 全球捕撈量的三分之一,
14:03
stays in the water.
318
843640
1200
就可以留在水裡。
14:05
So I guess what I'm saying is this is what we've been going with.
319
845880
3296
所以我想說的就是, 這些是我們一直以來的選擇。
14:09
We tend to go with our appetites rather than our minds.
320
849200
3176
我們傾向於聽從自己的胃口, 而不是我們的思想。
14:12
But if we went with this, or some configuration of it,
321
852400
3496
但要是我們選擇這些, 或者類似的組合,
14:15
we might have a little more of this.
322
855920
1715
那我們就可以有更多魚類。
14:19
Thank you.
323
859120
1216
謝謝。
14:20
(Applause)
324
860360
2480
(掌聲)
關於本網站

本網站將向您介紹對學習英語有用的 YouTube 視頻。 您將看到來自世界各地的一流教師教授的英語課程。 雙擊每個視頻頁面上顯示的英文字幕,從那裡播放視頻。 字幕與視頻播放同步滾動。 如果您有任何意見或要求,請使用此聯繫表與我們聯繫。

https://forms.gle/WvT1wiN1qDtmnspy7