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譯者: Shelley Krishna Tsang
審譯者: Harvey Hao Liu
00:15
So, 120 years ago,
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在120年前
00:19
Dr. Röntgen X-rayed his wife's hand.
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倫琴醫生給他妻子的手拍攝了X光照片。
00:21
Quite why he had to pin her fingers to the floor
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只是,為什麼他要用胸針把他妻子的手指釘在地上
00:24
with her brooch, I'm not sure. It seems a bit extreme to me.
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對此我很不解。這對我來說有點不可思議。
00:27
That image was the start of the X-ray technology.
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但這張照片確實是X射線技術的開端。
00:30
And I'm still fundamentally using the same principles today.
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並且我基本上依然在使用與當年相同的原理。
00:33
I'm interpreting it in a more contemporary manner.
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但是我用的是一種比較現代的表達方式。
00:37
The first shot I ever did
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我拍攝的第一張照片
00:41
was of a soda can, which was to promote a brand that we all know,
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是一個汽水罐,用來為大家都熟悉的一個牌子做廣告,
00:44
so I'm not going to do them any favors by showing you it.
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所以我不打算給你們展示那張照片,免得為他們做廣告。
00:46
But the second shot I did was my shoes I was wearing on the day.
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我拍攝的第二張照片是我曾穿過的一雙鞋子。
00:49
And I do really like this shot, because
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我非常喜歡這張照片,因為
00:51
it shows all the detritus that's sort of embedded
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從照片上能看到所有
00:53
in the sole of the sneakers.
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嵌在鞋底上的碎石。
00:55
It was just one of those pot-luck things where you
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這只是那些有意思的事情之一,你
00:57
get it right first time.
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才剛剛開始瞭解到。
00:59
Moving on to something a bit larger,
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讓我們繼續來看看大一些的東西,
01:01
this is an X-ray of a bus.
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這是一張公交汽車的X光照片。
01:03
And the bus is full of people.
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這輛車上載滿了人。
01:05
It's actually the same person. It's just one skeleton.
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實際上他們都是同一個人,都是一具骨架。
01:07
And back in the '60s,
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讓我們把目光倒回上世紀60年代
01:09
they used to teach student radiographers
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人們以前培訓X光照相師
01:11
to take X-rays, thankfully not on you and I,
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拍攝X光照片,但幸好不是給我們拍,
01:13
but on dead people.
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而是拍攝死人。
01:15
So, I've still got access to one of these dead people
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現在,我們仍然能夠拍攝到當年的那些死人之一
01:17
called Frieda; she's falling apart, I'm afraid,
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她的名字叫Frieda。我擔心她一直在腐化,
01:20
because she's very old and fragile.
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因為她已經非常老了,而且還很脆弱。
01:22
But everyone on that bus is Frieda.
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但那輛公車上的每個人都是Frieda
01:24
And the bus is taken with a cargo-scanning X-ray,
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這張公車的照片是由X光貨物掃描器器拍攝的,
01:27
which is the sort of machine you have on borders,
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就是我們在邊境關口看到的那種機器,
01:29
which checks for contraband and drugs and bombs and things.
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用來檢查走私品,毒品和爆炸物之類的東西。
01:33
Fairly obvious what that is.
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很明顯能看出來這是什麼。
01:36
So, using large-scale objects
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拍攝大尺度的物體
01:38
does sort of create drama
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確實是相當有戲劇性的
01:40
because you just don't see X-rays of big things that often.
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因為你很少見到大型物體的X光照片。
01:43
Technology is moving ahead,
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科技在不斷進步
01:45
and these large cargo scanner X-rays
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這些大的X光貨物掃描器器
01:48
that work with the digital system are getting better and better and better.
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以及其中的數位系統正在變得越來越好。
01:50
Again though, to make it come alive
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然而,要把它變得更真實些
01:52
you need, somehow, to add the human element.
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你需要加入一些人的因素。
01:54
And I think the reason this image works, again, is because
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我認為這張圖片成功的原因在於
01:56
Frieda is driving the bulldozer.
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Frieda在駕駛這台推土機。
01:58
(Laughter)
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(笑聲)
01:59
Quite a difficult brief,
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這是個相當困難的事,
02:01
make a pair of men's pants look beautiful.
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讓一條男士褲子看起來漂亮。
02:03
But I think the process, in itself, shows how exquisite they are.
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但我認為這個過程本身就體現了它有多麼精細。
02:08
Fashion -- now, I'm sort of anti-fashion because I
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時尚,我現在是個反時尚者,因為我
02:10
don't show the surface, I show what's within.
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不展現事物的表面,而是事物的內部。
02:12
So, the fashionistas don't really like me
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所以,時尚人士一定不喜歡我
02:14
because it doesn't matter if Kate Moss is wearing it or if I'm wearing it,
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因為不論是Kate Moss或是我穿著時裝,
02:16
it looks the same.
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看起來都是一樣的。
02:18
(Laughter)
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(笑聲)
02:20
We all look the same inside, believe me.
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我們的內部看起來都是一樣的,相信我。
02:22
The creases in the material and the sort of nuances.
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面料上的褶皺和這些細微之處。
02:26
And I show things for really what they are, what they're made of.
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而我展示食物最真實的一面,他們是由什麼構成的。
02:28
I peel back the layers and expose it.
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我透視它
02:31
And if it's well made I show it, if it's badly made I show it.
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并如實的展現出來。
02:33
And I'm sure Ross can associate that with design.
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我能肯定Ross將會把它同設計聯繫起來。
02:36
The design comes from within.
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但設計源自事物的內在。
02:38
It's not just Topshop,
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而不是表面的樣子。
02:40
I get some strange looks when I go out getting my props.
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在我尋找我的拍攝道具時,我得到一些奇怪的圖像。
02:42
Here I was fumbling around in the ladies' underwear department
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這個是我在百貨商店的女士內衣部搜尋時找到的
02:44
of a department store, almost got escorted from the premises.
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幾乎要被商家趕出來。
02:48
I live opposite a farm. And this was the runt of the litter, a piglet that died.
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我住在一家農場的對面,這就是那家農場的牲口,一隻死掉的小豬。
02:51
And what's really interesting is,
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真正有趣的是,
02:53
if you look at the legs, you'll notice that the bones haven't fused.
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當你看著它的腿時,你會發現那些骨頭都沒有癒合。
02:56
And should that pig have grown,
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這只小豬還沒有生長成熟,
02:58
unfortunately it was dead, it would have certainly been dead
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不幸的是它死了,並且在我用X射線照射他之後
03:00
after I X-rayed it, with the amount of radiation I used anyway.
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應該肯定它已經死了,介於我所用的輻射劑量。
03:02
(Laughter)
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(笑聲)
03:03
But once the bones had fused together
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但是一旦那些骨頭癒合之後
03:06
it would have been healthy.
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它應該能夠很健康的。
03:08
So, that's an empty parka jacket.
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那麼,現在這就是一件皮夾克。
03:11
But I quite love the way it's posed.
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但是我很喜歡它的這個造型。
03:13
Nature is my greatest inspiration.
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自然是我最大的靈感。
03:15
And to carry on with a theme that we've already touched with
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下面繼續我們已經接觸到的一個話題
03:18
is how nature is related to architecture.
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那就是自然如何與建築相聯繫。
03:21
If you look at the roof of the Eden Project,
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如果你看到“伊甸園計畫”(一個人造的大型溫室),
03:24
or the British library, it's all this honeycomb structure.
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或者不列顛圖書館的屋頂,你會發現他們都是蜂巢結構的。
03:26
And I'm sure those architects are inspired,
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我敢肯定,這些建築師的靈感,
03:28
as I am, by what surrounds us, by nature.
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同我的一樣,都來自我們的周圍,來自大自然。
03:31
This, in fact, is a Victoria water lily leaf
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事實上,這是一片維多利亞睡蓮的葉子
03:34
that floats on the top of a pond.
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漂浮在池塘上的。
03:36
An amaryllis flower looking really three-dimensional.
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喇叭花看上去很有立體感。
03:40
Seaweed, ebbing in the tide.
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退潮時的海藻。
03:42
Now, how do I do this, and where do I do this, and all of that sort of thing.
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現在我要向大家展示我如何拍攝這些,我在哪拍攝這些,以及之類的問題。
03:45
This is my new, purpose-built, X-ray shed.
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這是我新建的X射線專用攝影棚。
03:47
And the door to my X-ray room
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這是通往X射線室的門
03:51
is made of lead and steel.
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用鉛和鋼材做成。
03:53
It weighs 1,250 kilograms and the only exercise I get is opening and closing it.
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它有1250公斤重,我唯一的鍛煉就是打開和關上這個門。
03:57
(Laughter)
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(笑聲)
04:00
The walls are 700 millimeters thick of solid dense concrete.
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牆壁都是用700毫米厚的高密度混凝土製成的。
04:03
So, I'm using quite a lot of radiation.
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我使用很大的輻射量。
04:05
A lot more than you'd get in a hospital or a vet's.
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比醫院或者獸醫那所用的量都要大。
04:08
And there I am. This is a quite high-powered X-ray machine.
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我就在那。這是一台相當高功率的X射線儀器。
04:11
What's interesting really about X-ray really
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關於X射線真正有趣的事情是,
04:14
is, if you think about it, is that that technology
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是,如果你考慮到的話,是這項技術
04:16
is used for looking for cancer or looking for drugs,
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是用來檢查癌症和搜查毒品的,
04:18
or looking for contraband or whatever.
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或者是走私物品之類的東西。
04:20
And I use that sort of technology
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而我用這種技術
04:22
to create things that are quite beautiful.
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製造美麗的畫面。
04:25
So, still working with film, I'm afraid.
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我恐怕還要是用膠片。
04:27
Technology in X-ray where it's life-size processed,
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X射線技術在實物大小的處理中,
04:30
apart from these large cargo-scanning machines,
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撇開那些大型的掃描機器不談,
04:32
hasn't moved on enough for the quality of the image
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在圖像品質上並沒有很大的改進
04:35
and the resolution to be good enough for what I want to do with it,
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解析度足夠我進行這些展示
04:37
which is show my pictures big.
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把我的圖片放大展示出來。
04:39
So, I have to use a 1980s drum scanner,
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我是用過一個20世紀80年代的鼓形掃描器,
04:43
which was designed in the days when everyone shot photographs on film.
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它被設計出來的時候,人們都還在用膠片拍照。
04:46
They scan each individual X-ray.
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它掃描單獨的X射線照片。
04:48
And this shows how I do my process of same-size X-rays.
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這個展示了我如何處理小尺寸的X光照片。
04:51
So, this is, again, my daughter's dress.
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這又是我女兒的裙子。
04:53
Still has the tag in it from me buying it,
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還帶著我買它時候的標籤,
04:55
so I can take it back to the shop if she didn't like it.
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如果她不喜歡我還能到商店退貨。
04:57
But there are four X-ray plates.
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這裏有4個X光底盤。
04:59
You can see them overlapping.
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你能看到他們重疊在一起。
05:01
So, when you move forward from something fairly small,
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如果你的注意力從那些相當小尺寸的東西,
05:04
a dress which is this size,
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比如一條這樣大小的裙子,
05:06
onto something like that which is done in exactly the same process,
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轉移到這樣的物體上,它們照片處理的過程完全是一樣的,
05:09
you can see that that is a lot of work.
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你可以看到這需要很大的工作量。
05:11
In fact, that is three months solid X-raying.
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事實上,這是三個月固定X光掃描的成果。
05:13
There is over 500 separate components.
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這由500個單獨的部分組成。
05:16
Boeing sent me a 747 in containers.
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波音公司給我送來一架747飛機放在機庫裏。
05:18
And I sent them back an X-ray.
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而我還給他們的是一張X光照片。
05:20
(Laughter) I kid you not.
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(笑聲)我可沒跟你們開玩笑。
05:22
Okay, so Frieda is my dead skeleton.
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好的,Frieda 是一具死去的骷髏。
05:24
This, unfortunately, is basically two pictures.
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這個,不幸的,本質上是兩張圖片。
05:27
One on the extreme right is a photograph of an American footballer.
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在最右邊的時一張美式足球運動員的照片。
05:30
The one on the left is an x-ray.
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最左邊的是一張X光照片。
05:32
But this time I had to use a real body.
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不過這次我用的是一個真實的身體。
05:34
Because I needed all the skin tissue to make it look real,
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因為我需要所有的皮膚組織,讓它看起來是真的,
05:36
to make it look like it was a real athlete.
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看起來是一個真的運動員。
05:38
So, here I had to use a recently deceased body.
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於是,這次我用了一具最近死亡的屍體。
05:40
And getting a hold of that was extremely difficult and laborious.
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然而把他們固定住相當困難和麻煩。
05:45
But people do donate their bodies to art and science.
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但是人們願意捐獻他們的遺體給藝術和科學事業。
05:47
And when they do, I'm in the queue.
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他們一旦捐贈,我就排隊領取。
05:49
So, I like to use them.
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說實話,我很願意是用他們。
05:51
(Laughter)
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笑聲
05:52
The coloring, so coloring adds another level to the X-rays.
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下面談談顏色,著色給X光照片則更加了難度。
05:57
It makes it more organic, more natural.
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它會讓照片更加生動,更自然。
05:59
It's whatever takes my fancy, really.
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這真的很需要想像力。
06:01
It's not accurately colored to how it is in real life.
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這並不是真實世界裏的顏色。
06:04
That flower doesn't come in bright orange, I don't think.
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這朵花並不是亮橘黃色的。
06:06
But I just like it in bright orange.
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但是我比較喜歡它是亮橘黃色的樣子。
06:08
And also with something technical, like these are DJ decks,
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同樣,一些具有技術性的東西,比如這架DJ台,
06:10
it sort of adds another level.
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這增加了新的維度。
06:12
It makes a two dimensional image look more three dimensional.
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這讓二維的圖片看起來更加立體。
06:16
The most difficult things to X-ray,
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對於X光照片來說最難的事情,
06:18
the most technically challenging things to X-ray
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最具有技術性挑戰的事情
06:20
are the lightest things, the most delicate things.
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是那些最輕的物體,最脆弱的物體。
06:22
To get the detail in a feather,
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為了得到羽毛當中的細節圖像,
06:24
believe me, if there is anyone out here who knows anything about X-rays,
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相信我,如果這裏有人懂得X光技術,
06:26
that's quite a challenge.
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是相當大的挑戰。
06:28
I'm now going to show you a short film, I'll step to the side.
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我將向你們展示一段影片,我會站到一邊。
06:33
Video: (Music)
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錄影:(音樂)
06:52
The thing in there is very dangerous.
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那裏的東西非常危險。
06:54
If you touch that, you could possibly die
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如果你接觸了他們,你很可能會死
06:56
through radiation poisoning.
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於輻射中毒。
06:58
In my career I've had two exposures to radiation,
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在我的職業生涯中,我有兩次暴露在輻射之下,
07:00
which is two too many, because it stays with you for life.
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兩次已經很多了,因為輻射會一生留在你的體內。
07:02
It's cumulative.
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它是會累積的。
07:04
(Music)
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(音樂)
07:13
It has human connotations.
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它挺有人情味的。
07:14
The fact that it's a child's toy that we all recognize,
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事實上這是一個小孩的玩具,我們都能認出來,
07:17
but also it looks like it's a robot,
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但是看上去也像一個機器人,
07:20
and it comes from a sci-fi genus.
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這來自一種科幻小說。
07:25
It's a surprise that it has humanity,
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令人驚訝的是它擁有人性,
07:28
but also man-made, future, alien associations.
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但同時也是人造的,未來的,與外星人相聯繫的。
07:36
And it's just a bit spooky.
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看上去有點詭異。
07:38
(Music)
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(音樂)
08:13
The bus was done with a cargo-scanning X-ray machine,
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這張公車的照片是由大型X光掃描器完成的,
08:16
which is used on the borders
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用在邊境線上
08:18
between countries, looking for contraband and illegal immigrants.
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檢查走私和非法移民。
08:21
The lorry goes in front of it. And it takes slices
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卡車從前面進入,然後進行切面的
08:24
of X-rays through the lorry.
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X光照片貫穿整車。
08:26
And that's how this was done. It's actually slice, slice.
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這就是如何完成的,事實上就是切面拍照。
08:28
It's a bit like a CT scanner in a hospital. Slices.
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這有點像醫院的CT掃描器。切片。
08:30
And then if you look carefully, there is all little things.
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如果你仔細觀察,這裏還有些細微的事情。
08:33
He's got headphones on, reading the newspaper,
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他帶著耳機,讀著報紙,
08:35
got a hat on, glasses, got a bag.
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帶著帽子,眼睛,和一個包。
08:38
So, these little details
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這些細節
08:41
help to make it work, make it real.
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讓照片看起來更真實。
08:44
(Music)
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(音樂)
08:51
The problem with using living people is that
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如果使用活人,那麻煩的是
08:53
to take an X-ray, if I X-ray you, you get exposed to radiation.
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照射X光,如果我用X光照射你,你將暴露在輻射中。
08:56
So, to avoid that --
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所以,為了避免這樣的事,
08:58
I have to avoid it somehow --
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我必須採取一點措施,
09:00
is I use dead people.
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那便是用死人。
09:02
Now, that's a variety of things, from recently deceased bodies,
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現在,這涵蓋了很多種類,從最近剛剛死去的屍體,
09:06
to a skeleton that was used by student radiographers
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到那些給學生的骨架
09:11
to train in taking X-rays of the human body,
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用來訓練他們拍攝人體X光照片,
09:14
at different densities.
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對於不同的密度。
09:16
(Music)
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(音樂)
09:21
I have very high-tech equipment of gloves, scissors and a bucket.
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我有一些非常高科技的裝備,手套,剪刀和一個桶子。
09:24
(Music)
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(音樂)
09:31
I will show how the capillary action works, how it feeds,
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我將展示一些微小的作用原理,它是怎樣獲得營養的,
09:34
I'll be able to get all the cells inside that stem.
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我將能得到這條莖裏面的所有細胞。
09:36
Because it transfers food from its roots to its leaves.
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因為它將養料從根傳送到葉。
09:40
Look at this monster.
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看看這個怪物。
09:42
(Music)
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(音樂)
09:54
It's so basic. It just grows wild.
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它是如此的原始,它只在野外生長。
09:57
That's what I really like about it,
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這就是我最喜歡它的地方,
09:59
the fact that I haven't got to go and buy it,
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事實上我不用去把它買來,
10:01
and it hasn't been genetically modified at all.
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它沒有被作任何修飾。
10:03
It's just happening.
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它就這麼發生了。
10:05
And the X-ray shows how beautiful nature can be.
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X射線照片展現了大自然有多美。
10:08
Not that that is particularly beautiful
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不是那個,它有很獨特的美
10:10
when you look at it with the human eye,
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當你用肉眼看它,
10:13
the way the leaves form. They're curling back on each other.
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樹葉生長的方式。它們相互卷在一起。
10:17
So the X-ray will show the overlaps in these little corners.
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X射線將展示在這些小角落的重疊。
10:31
The thicker the object, the more radiation it needs,
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物體越厚,所需要的輻射就越多,
10:33
and the more time it needs.
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也需要更多時間。
10:35
The lighter the object, the less radiation.
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物體越薄,需要的輻射也就越少。
10:38
Sometimes you keep the time up, because the time gives you detail.
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有時你需要掌握時間,因為時間能給你很多細節。
10:41
The longer the exposure goes on for,
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曝光時間越長
10:43
the more detail you get.
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你得到的細節就越多。
10:46
(Music)
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(音樂)
11:00
If you look at this, just the tube,
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如果你看這裏,這枝幹,
11:02
it is quite bright.
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它非常明亮。
11:04
But I could get a bit darker in the tube, but everything else would suffer.
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如果把枝幹弄得深色一點,其他的部分就麻煩了。
11:07
So, these leaves at the edge would start to disappear.
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於是,這些在邊緣的葉子就開始消失了。
11:11
What I like is how hard the edges are,
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我喜歡的是邊緣有多明顯,
11:13
how sharp.
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有多銳利。
11:15
Yeah, I'm quite pleased with it.
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是的,我很喜歡它。
11:17
(Music)
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(音樂)
11:19
I travel beyond the surface and show
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我在表面之下探尋並展示
11:21
something for what it's worth,
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那些有價值的東西,
11:24
for what it's really made of, how it really works.
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它是如何構成的,如何運作的。
11:26
But also I find that
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同時我也發現
11:29
I've got the benefit of taking away all the surface,
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拋開表面,我能得到很多,
11:33
which is things that people are used to seeing.
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那些人們經常見到的。
11:37
And that's the sort of thing I've been doing.
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這就是我一直在做的。
11:39
I've got the opportunity now to show you
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現在我得到一個機會
11:41
what I'm going to be doing in the future.
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向你展示我將來會做的事情。
11:43
This is a commercial application of my most recent work.
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這是我最近作品中的一個商業廣告。
11:47
And what's good about this, I think, is that it's like a moment in time,
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它好的地方是,我認為,它像某一時刻,
11:50
like you've turned around, you've got X-ray vision
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像你四處轉轉,你有了X射線視野
11:52
and you've taken a picture with the X-ray camera.
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你用X射線相機拍了一張照片。
11:54
Unfortunately I haven't got X-ray vision.
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不幸的是,我沒有X射線視野。
11:56
I do dream in X-ray. I see my projects in my sleep.
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我做過X射線的夢,在睡夢中我看到我的項目。
11:59
And I know what they're going to look like in X-ray and I'm not far off.
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我知道它們用X射線看起來是什麼樣子,而且我就在不遠處。
12:02
So, what am I doing in the future?
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那麼,在將來我要幹什麼?
12:04
Well, this year is the 50th anniversary
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今年是第50周年紀念
12:06
of Issigonis's Mini, which is one of my favorite cars.
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對於Issigoni的mini車,我最愛的汽車之一。
12:09
So, I've taken it apart, component by component,
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於是我將它分解了,一個一個的零件,
12:12
months and months and months of work.
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一個月又一個月的工作。
12:14
And with this image, I'm going to be displaying
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這些圖片,我將展出
12:17
it in the Victoria and Albert Museum
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在Victoria and Albert博物館中的
12:20
as a light box, which is actually attached to the car.
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就像你一個燈箱,事實上是附在汽車上的。
12:22
So, I've got to saw the car in half, down the middle,
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我從中間將車劈成兩半,
12:25
not an easy task, in itself.
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這本身不是一個容易的工作。
12:27
And then, so you can get in the driver's side, sit down,
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然後你可以進入駕駛室那一邊,然後坐下,
12:29
and up against you is a wall.
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對著你的是一堵牆。
12:31
And if you get out and walk around to the other side of the car,
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如果你出來,走到車的另外一邊,
12:33
you see a life-sized light box of the car showing you how it works.
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你看到一個實物大小汽車形狀的燈箱
12:36
And I'm going to take that idea
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我將採取這個創意
12:38
and apply it to other sort of iconic things from my life.
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把它應用到生活中的其他象徵性的事物。
12:42
Like, my first computer was a big movement in my life.
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比如,我的第一台電腦是我生活中的一個大行動。
12:45
And I had a Mac Classic. And it's a little box.
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我有一台Mac Classic,它是一个小盒子。
12:47
And I think that would look quite neat as an X-ray.
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我認為在X光下它看上去很漂亮。
12:50
I'm also looking to
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我也在探索
12:52
take my work from the two-dimensional form
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把我的作品從二維
12:54
to a more three-dimensional form.
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拓展到三維。
12:56
And this is quite a good way of doing it.
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這是個相當好的方法。
12:59
I'm also working now with X-ray video.
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我現在也在製作X射線錄影。
13:01
So, if you can imagine, some of these flowers,
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如果你能想像,這些花,
13:03
and they're actually moving and growing
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他們事實在移動和生長
13:05
and you can film that in X-ray, should be quite stunning.
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你能用X射線拍攝下這些,那將非常棒。
13:08
But that's it. I'm done. Thank you very much.
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好的,就是這些。非常感謝各位。
13:10
(Applause)
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(掌聲)
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