Peter Reinhart: The art of baking bread

212,261 views ใƒป 2009-01-16

TED


ืื ื ืœื—ืฅ ืคืขืžื™ื™ื ืขืœ ื”ื›ืชื•ื‘ื™ื•ืช ื‘ืื ื’ืœื™ืช ืœืžื˜ื” ื›ื“ื™ ืœื”ืคืขื™ืœ ืืช ื”ืกืจื˜ื•ืŸ.

ืžืชืจื’ื: Shlomo Adam ืžื‘ืงืจ: Sigal Tifferet
00:16
This is a wheat bread, a whole wheat bread,
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ื–ื”ื• ืœื—ื ื—ื™ื˜ื”, ืœื—ื ื—ื™ื˜ื” ืžืœืื”,
00:18
and it's made with a new technique
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ื•ื”ื•ื ืžื™ื•ืฆืจ ื‘ืฉื™ื˜ื” ื—ื“ืฉื”
00:20
that I've been playing around with,
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ืฉื”ืฉืชืขืฉืขืชื™ ื‘ื” ืœืื—ืจื•ื ื”,
00:22
and developing and writing about which, for lack of a better name,
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ื•ืฉืคื™ืชื—ืชื™ ืื•ืชื” ื•ื›ืชื‘ืชื™ ืขืœื™ื”, ื•ื‘ื”ื™ืขื“ืจ ืฉื ื”ื•ืœื
00:24
we call the epoxy method.
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ืื ื• ืžื›ื ื™ื ืื•ืชื” "ื”ืฉื™ื˜ื” ื”ืืคื•ืงืกื™ืช".
00:26
And I call it an epoxy method because --
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ื•ืื ื™ ืžื›ื ื” ืื•ืชื” "ื”ืฉื™ื˜ื” ื”ืืคื•ืงืกื™ืช" ื›ื™ -
00:28
it's not very appetizing. I understand that --
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ื”ืฉื ืœื ื”ื›ื™ ืžืขื•ืจืจ ืชื™ืื‘ื•ืŸ, ืื ื™ ื™ื•ื“ืข -
00:30
but -- but
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ืื‘ืœ... ืื‘ืœ...
00:32
if you think about epoxy, what's epoxy?
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ื›ืฉื—ื•ืฉื‘ื™ื ืขืœ ื“ื‘ืง ืืคื•ืงืกื™, ืžื”ื• ื“ื‘ืง ืืคื•ืงืกื™?
00:34
It's two resins that are, sort of,
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ืžื“ื•ื‘ืจ ื‘ืฉื ื™ ืกื•ื’ื™ ืฉืจืฃ,
00:36
in and of themselves -- neither of which can make glue,
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ืฉื›ืœ ืื—ื“ ืžื”ื ื›ืฉืœืขืฆืžื•
00:39
but when you put the two together,
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ืื™ื ื ื• ื“ื‘ืง. ืืš ื›ืฉืžื—ื‘ืจื™ื ื‘ื™ื ื™ื”ื,
00:41
something happens. A bond takes place,
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ืงื•ืจื” ืžืฉื”ื•, ืžืชืจื—ืฉืช ื”ื“ื‘ืงื”,
00:42
and you get this very strong, powerful
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ื•ืžืงื‘ืœื™ื ื“ื‘ืง
00:44
adhesive.
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ื—ื–ืง ื•ืจื‘-ืขื•ืฆืžื”.
00:46
Well, in this technique,
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ืื– ื‘ืฉื™ื˜ื” ื”ื–ื•,
00:48
what I've tried to do is kind of
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ืžื” ืฉื ื™ืกื™ืชื™ ืœืขืฉื•ืช ื”ื•ื
00:50
gather all of the knowledge that the bread-baking world,
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ืœืืกื•ืฃ ืืช ื”ื™ื“ืข ืฉืขื•ืœื ืืคื™ื™ืช ื”ืœื—ื,
00:52
the artisan bread-baking community,
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ืฉืงื”ื™ืœืช ืื•ืคื™-ื”ืœื—ื ื”ืžื™ื•ืžื ื™ื
00:54
has been trying to accumulate over the last 20 years or so --
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ื”ืฉืชื“ืœื” ืœืืกื•ืฃ ื‘ืžืฉืš ื›-20 ื”ืฉื ื™ื ื”ืื—ืจื•ื ื•ืช -
00:57
since we've been engaged in a bread renaissance in America --
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ืžืื– ืฉืื ื• ืฉื•ืชืคื™ื ืœืจื ืกื ืก ืฉืœ ื”ืœื—ื ื‘ืืžืจื™ืงื” -
01:00
and put it together to come up with a method
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ื•ืœื—ื‘ืจ ื”ื›ืœ ื›ื“ื™ ืœืคืชื— ืฉื™ื˜ื”
01:03
that would help to take whole-grain breads.
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ืฉืชืกื™ื™ืข ื‘ืืคื™ื™ืช ื”ืœื—ื ื”ืžืœื.
01:06
And let's face it, everyone's trying to move towards whole grains.
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ื•ืื ืœื”ื•ื“ื•ืช ื‘ื›ืš, ื›ื•ืœื ืžื ืกื™ื ืœืขื‘ื•ืจ ืœืœื—ื ืžืœื.
01:09
We finally, after 40 years of knowing
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ืกื•ืฃ ืกื•ืฃ, ืื—ืจื™ ืฉืžื–ื” 40 ืฉื ื” ืื ื• ื™ื•ื“ืขื™ื
01:12
that wholegrain was a healthier option,
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ืฉื”ืงืžื— ื”ืžืœื ื”ื•ื ื—ืœื•ืคื” ื‘ืจื™ืื” ื™ื•ืชืจ,
01:14
we're finally getting to the point where we actually are tipping over
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ืกื•ืฃ ืกื•ืฃ ื”ื’ืขื ื• ืœื ืงื•ื“ื” ืฉืื ื• ืขื•ืœื™ื ืžื“ืจื’ื”
01:17
and attempting to actually eat them.
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ื•ืžื ืกื™ื ื‘ืคื•ืขืœ ืœืื›ื•ืœ ืื•ืชื•.
01:19
(Laughter)
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[ืฆื—ื•ืง]
01:21
The challenge, though, for a wholegrain baker is,
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ืื‘ืœ ื”ืืชื’ืจ ืฉืœ ืื•ืคื” ื”ืœื—ื ื”ืžืœื ื”ื•ื,
01:23
you know, how do you make it taste good?
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ืื™ืš ืœืขืฉื•ืช ืฉื™ื”ื™ื” ื˜ืขื™ื?
01:26
Because whole grain -- it's easy with white flour
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ื›ื™ ื—ื™ื˜ื” ืžืœืื”... ืขื ืงืžื— ืœื‘ืŸ,
01:28
to make a good-tasting bread. White flour is sweet.
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ืงืœ ืœื™ืฆื•ืจ ืœื—ื ื˜ืขื™ื. ื”ืงืžื— ื”ืœื‘ืŸ ื”ื•ื ืžืชื•ืง.
01:31
It's mainly starch, and starch, when you break it down --
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ื”ื•ื ื‘ืจื•ื‘ื• ืขืžื™ืœืŸ, ื•ืขืžื™ืœืŸ, ื›ืฉืžืคืจืงื™ื ืื•ืชื• -
01:34
what is starch? It's -- thank you -- sugar, yes.
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ืžื”ื• ืขืžื™ืœืŸ? ื–ื” - ืชื•ื“ื” - ืกื•ื›ืจ, ื›ืŸ.
01:37
So a baker, and a good baker,
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ืื– ื”ืื•ืคื”, ื”ืื•ืคื” ื”ื˜ื•ื‘,
01:39
knows how to pull or draw forth
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ื™ื•ื“ืข ืื™ืš ืœื”ื•ืฆื™ื ืื• ืœื”ื‘ืœื™ื˜
01:42
the inherent sugar trapped in the starch.
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ืืช ื”ืกื•ื›ืจ ื”ืœื›ื•ื“ ื‘ืขืžื™ืœืŸ.
01:45
With whole grain bread, you have other obstacles.
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ื›ืฉืžื“ื•ื‘ืจ ื‘ืœื—ื ืžืœื, ื”ืžื›ืฉื•ืœื™ื ื”ื ืฉื•ื ื™ื
01:47
You've got bran, which is probably the healthiest part of the bread for us,
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ื™ืฉ ื‘ื• ืกื•ื‘ื™ืŸ, ืฉื”ื•ื ืื•ืœื™ ื”ื—ืœืง ื”ื›ื™ ื‘ืจื™ื ืขื‘ื•ืจื ื• ื‘ืœื—ื,
01:50
or the fiber for us because it is just loaded with fiber,
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ืื• ื”ืกื™ื‘ื™ื ื”ืชื–ื•ื ืชื™ื™ื, ื›ื™ ื”ื•ื ืžืคื•ืฆืฅ ื‘ืกื™ื‘ื™ื,
01:53
for the bran is fiber.
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ื›ื™ ื”ืกื•ื‘ื™ืŸ ื”ื•ื ืกื™ื‘ื™ื ืชื–ื•ื ืชื™ื™ื.
01:55
It's got germ. Those are the good things,
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ื™ืฉ ื‘ื• ื ื‘ื˜ื™ื. ืืœื• ื”ื“ื‘ืจื™ื ื”ื˜ื•ื‘ื™ื,
01:57
but those aren't the tastiest parts of the wheat.
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ืืš ืืœื• ืื™ื ื ื”ื—ืœืงื™ื ื”ื˜ืขื™ืžื™ื ืฉืœ ื”ื—ื™ื˜ื”.
01:59
So whole grain breads historically
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ื›ืš ืฉื”ืœื—ื ื”ืžืœื, ืžื‘ื—ื™ื ื” ื”ื™ืกื˜ื•ืจื™ืช,
02:02
have had sort of this onus of being health food breads,
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ืืฉื ื‘ื›ืš ืฉื”ื•ื ืžื–ื•ืŸ ื‘ืจื™ืื•ืช,
02:04
and people don't like to eat,
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ื•ืื ืฉื™ื ืœื ืื•ื”ื‘ื™ื ืœืื›ื•ืœ, ืฆื™ื˜ื•ื˜:
02:06
quote, health food. They like to eat healthy and healthily,
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"ืžื–ื•ืŸ ื‘ืจื™ืื•ืช". ื”ื ืื•ื”ื‘ื™ื ืœืื›ื•ืœ ื‘ืจื™ื ื•ื‘ืื•ืคืŸ ื‘ืจื™ื,
02:09
but when we think of something as a health food,
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ืื‘ืœ ื›ืฉืื ื• ืจื•ืื™ื ื‘ืžืฉื”ื• "ืžื–ื•ืŸ ื‘ืจื™ืื•ืช",
02:11
we think of it as something we eat out of obligation,
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ืื ื• ื—ื•ืฉื‘ื™ื ืขืœื™ื• ื›ืžืฉื”ื• ืฉืื ื• ืžื—ื•ื™ื™ื‘ื™ื ืœืื›ื•ืœ,
02:14
not out of passion and love for the flavor.
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ื•ืœื ืžืชื•ืš ืชืื•ื•ื” ื•ืื”ื‘ืช ื”ื˜ืขื.
02:17
And ultimately, the challenge of the baker,
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ื•ื‘ืฉื•ืจื” ื”ืชื—ืชื•ื ื”, ื”ืืชื’ืจ ืฉืœ ื”ืื•ืคื”,
02:20
the challenge of every culinary student, of every chef,
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ื”ืืชื’ืจ ืฉืœ ื›ืœ ืžื™ ืฉืœื•ืžื“ ื‘ื™ืฉื•ืœ, ืฉืœ ื›ืœ ืฉืฃ,
02:22
is to deliver flavor.
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ื”ื•ื ืœืกืคืง ื˜ืขื.
02:25
Flavor is king. Flavor rules.
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ื”ื˜ืขื ื”ื•ื ื”ืžืœืš. ื”ื˜ืขื ืฉื•ืœื˜.
02:27
I call it the flavor rule. Flavor rules.
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ืื ื™ ืงื•ืจื ืœื–ื” "ื›ืœืœ ื”ื˜ืขื". ื”ื˜ืขื ืฉื•ืœื˜.
02:29
And -- and
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ื•ื‘ื ื•ืกืฃ ืœื›ืš -
02:31
you can get somebody to eat something that's good for them once,
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ืืคืฉืจ ืœื’ืจื•ื ืœืžื™ืฉื”ื• ืœืื›ื•ืœ ืžืฉื”ื• ืฉื˜ื•ื‘ ื‘ืฉื‘ื™ืœื• ืคืขื ืื—ืช,
02:34
but they won't eat it again if they don't like it, right?
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ืื‘ืœ ื”ื•ื ืœื ื™ืื›ืœ ื–ืืช ืฉื•ื‘ ืื ืœื ื™ืื”ื‘ ื–ืืช, ื›ืŸ?
02:37
So, this is the challenge for this bread.
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ืื– ื–ื”ื• ื”ืืชื’ืจ ืฉื‘ืœื—ื ื”ื–ื”.
02:39
We're going to try this at lunch, and
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ืื ื—ื ื• ื ื˜ืขื ืื•ืชื• ื‘ืืจื•ื—ืช ื”ืฆื”ืจื™ื,
02:41
I'll explain a bit more about it,
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ื•ืื ื™ ืืกื‘ื™ืจ ืขืœื™ื• ืขื•ื“ ืงืฆืช,
02:43
but it's made not only with two types of pre-doughs --
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ืืš ื”ื•ื ืขืฉื•ื™ ืœื ืจืง ืžืฉื ื™ ืกื•ื’ื™ ืขื™ืกืช-ื‘ืกื™ืก -
02:46
this attempt, again, at bringing out flavor
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ืฉื•ื‘, ื ืกื™ื•ืŸ ื–ื” ื‘ื”ื‘ืœื˜ืช ื”ื˜ืขื
02:48
is to make a piece of dough
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ื›ื•ืœืœ ื”ื›ื ืช ื—ืชื™ื›ืช ื‘ืฆืง
02:50
the day before that is not leavened.
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ืฉืœื ืชืคื—, ื™ื•ื ืœืคื ื™-ื›ืŸ.
02:53
It's just dough that is wet.
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ื–ื• ืคืฉื•ื˜ ืขื™ืกื” ืœื—ื”.
02:55
It's hydrated dough we call "the soaker" --
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ื–ื• ืขื™ืกื” ืจื•ื•ื™ื™ืช-ืžื™ื, "ืฉื™ื›ื•ืจื”",
02:57
that helps to start enzyme activity.
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ืžื” ืฉืขื•ื–ืจ ืœื”ืชื—ื™ืœ ืืช ืคืขื™ืœื•ืช ื”ืื ื–ื™ืžื™ื.
02:59
And enzymes are the secret, kind of, ingredient in dough
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ื•ื”ืื ื–ื™ืžื™ื ื”ื ื›ืื™ืœื• ื”ืžืจื›ื™ื‘ ื”ืกื•ื“ื™ ื‘ื‘ืฆืง,
03:02
that brings out flavor.
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ืฉืžื‘ืœื™ื˜ ืืช ื”ื˜ืขื.
03:04
It starts to release the sugars trapped in the starch.
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ื”ื ืžืชื—ื™ืœื™ื ืœืฉื—ืจืจ ืืช ื”ืกื•ื›ืจื™ื ื”ืœื›ื•ื“ื™ื ื‘ืขืžื™ืœืŸ.
03:06
That's what enzymes are doing.
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ื–ื” ืžื” ืฉื”ืื ื–ื™ืžื™ื ืขื•ืฉื™ื.
03:08
And so, if we can release some of those,
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ื›ืš ืฉืื ืื ื• ืžืฉื—ืจืจื™ื ืงืฆืช ืžื”ื,
03:10
they become accessible to us in our palate.
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ื”ื ื ืขืฉื™ื ื ื’ื™ืฉื™ื ืœื—ื™ืš ืฉืœื ื•.
03:12
They become accessible to the yeast as food.
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ื”ื ื ืขืฉื™ื ื ื’ื™ืฉื™ื ื›ืžื–ื•ืŸ ืœืฉืžืจื™ื.
03:15
They become accessible to the oven for caramelization
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ื”ื ื ืขืฉื™ื ื ื’ื™ืฉื™ื ืœืงื™ืจืžื•ืœ ื‘ืชื ื•ืจ
03:18
to give us a beautiful crust.
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ื›ื“ื™ ืœืชืช ืœื ื• ืงืจื•ื ื™ืคื”.
03:20
The other pre-dough
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ืขื™ืกืช-ื”ื‘ืกื™ืก ื”ืฉื ื™ื” ืฉืื ื• ืžื™ื™ืฆืจื™ื
03:22
that we make is fermented -- our pre-ferment.
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ื”ื™ื ืžื•ืชืกืกืช. ื–ื” ื”ืชืกืก ื”ืจืืฉื•ื ื™ ืฉืœื ื•.
03:24
And it's made -- it can be a sourdough starter, or what we call a "biga"
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ื•ื”ื•ื ืขืฉื•ื™... ื–ื• ื™ื›ื•ืœื” ืœื”ื™ื•ืช ืžื—ืžืฆืช ืฉืื•ืจ, ืื• "ื‘ื™ื’ื”"
03:27
or any other kind of pre-fermented dough with a little yeast in it,
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ืื• ื›ืœ ืกื•ื’ ืื—ืจ ืฉืœ ื‘ืฆืง ื‘ื•ืกืจ ืฉื™ืฉ ื‘ื• ืžืขื˜ ืฉืžืจื™ื,
03:30
and that starts to develop flavor also.
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ื•ืฉื’ื ื”ื•ื ืžืชื—ื™ืœ ืœืคืชื— ื˜ืขื.
03:33
And on day two, we put those two pieces together. That's the epoxy.
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ื•ื‘ื™ื•ื ื”ืฉื ื™, ืื ื• ืžื—ื‘ืจื™ื ืืช ืฉื ื™ ื”ื‘ืฆืงื™ื. ื–ื”ื• ื”ืืคื•ืงืกื™
03:36
And we're hoping that, sort of, the
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ื•ืื ื• ืžืงื•ื•ื™ื
03:38
enzyme piece of dough
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ืฉื”ื‘ืฆืง ืขื ื”ืื ื–ื™ืžื™ื
03:40
becomes the fuel pack for the leavened piece of dough,
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ื™ื”ืคื•ืš ืœื“ืœืง ืฉืœ ื”ื‘ืฆืง ืฉืชืคื—,
03:43
and when we put them together and add the final ingredients,
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ื•ื›ืฉืื ื• ืžืฆืจืคื™ื ืื•ืชื ื•ืžื•ืกื™ืคื™ื ืืช ื”ืจื›ื™ื‘ื™ื ื”ืกื•ืคื™ื™ื,
03:46
we can create a bread that does evoke
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ื ื•ื›ืœ ืœื™ืฆื•ืจ ืœื—ื ืฉืžืขื•ืจืจ
03:48
the full potential of flavor trapped in the grain.
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ืืช ืžืœื•ื ืคื•ื˜ื ืฆื™ืืœ ื”ื˜ืขื ืฉืœื›ื•ื“ ื‘ื’ืจืขื™ืŸ.
03:51
That's the challenge. Okay, so, now, what we --
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ื–ื”ื• ื”ืืชื’ืจ. ืื– ืขื›ืฉื™ื• -
03:53
in the journey of wheat, let's go back and look at these 12 stages.
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ื‘ืžืกืขื” ืฉืœ ื”ื—ื™ื˜ื”, ื”ื‘ื” ื ื—ื–ื•ืจ ื•ื ื‘ื—ืŸ 12 ืฉืœื‘ื™ื ืืœื”
03:57
I'm going to go through them very quickly and then revisit them.
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ืืขื‘ื•ืจ ืขืœื™ื”ื ื‘ืžื”ื™ืจื•ืช, ื•ื‘ื”ืžืฉืš ืืชืขื›ื‘ ืขืœื™ื”ื.
03:59
Okay, we're going to start with the first stage.
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ื ืชื—ื™ืœ ื‘ืฉืœื‘ ื”ืจืืฉื•ืŸ.
04:03
And this is what every student has to begin with.
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ืฉื‘ื• ืžืชื—ื™ืœ ื›ืœ ืชืœืžื™ื“.
04:06
Everyone who works in the culinary world knows that
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ื›ืœ ืžื™ ืฉืขื•ื‘ื“ ื‘ืขื•ืœื ื”ื‘ื™ืฉื•ืœ ื™ื•ื“ืข
04:08
the first stage of cooking is "mise en place,"
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ืฉืฉืœื‘ ื”ื‘ื™ืฉื•ืœ ื”ืจืืฉื•ืŸ ื”ื•ื "ืžื™ื–-ื-ืคืœืืก,"
04:11
which is just a French way of saying, "get organized."
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ืฉื‘ืฆืจืคืชื™ืช ื–ื” "ืœื”ืชืืจื’ืŸ."
04:16
Everything in its place. First stage.
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ื›ืœ ื“ื‘ืจ ื‘ืžืงื•ืžื•. ืฉืœื‘ ืจืืฉื•ืŸ.
04:19
So in baking we call it scaling -- weighing out the ingredients.
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ื‘ืืคื™ื” ืื ื• ืงื•ืจืื™ื ืœื–ื” "ืžื“ื™ื“ื”": ืฉืงื™ืœืช ื”ืจื›ื™ื‘ื™ื.
04:21
Stage two is mixing. We take the ingredients and we mix them.
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ืฉืœื‘ ืฉื ื™: ืขืจื‘ื•ื‘. ืื ื• ืœื•ืงื—ื™ื ืืช ื”ืจื›ื™ื‘ื™ื ื•ืžืขืจื‘ื‘ื™ื ืื•ืชื.
04:24
We have to develop the gluten.
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ืขืœื™ื ื• ืœืคืชื— ืืช ื”ื’ืœื•ื˜ืŸ.
04:26
There's no gluten in flour. There's only the potential for gluten.
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ื‘ืงืžื— ืื™ืŸ ื’ืœื•ื˜ืŸ. ืงื™ื™ื ืจืง ื”ืคื•ื˜ื ืฆื™ืืœ ืœื’ืœื•ื˜ืŸ.
04:29
Here's another kind of prefiguring of epoxy
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ื™ืฉ ื›ืืŸ ืขื•ื“ ื“ืžื™ื•ืŸ ืœืืคื•ืงืกื™
04:32
because we've got glutenin and gliadin,
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ื›ื™ ื™ืฉ ืœื ื• ื’ืœื•ื˜ื ื™ืŸ ื•ื’ืœื™ืื“ื™ืŸ,
04:34
neither of which are strong enough to make a good bread.
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ืฉืืฃ ืื—ื“ ืžื”ื ืื™ื ื• ื—ื–ืง ืžืกืคื™ืง ืœื™ืฆื™ืจืช ืœื—ื ื˜ื•ื‘.
04:37
But when they get hydrated and they bond to each other,
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ืืš ื›ืฉืžืจื•ื•ื™ื ืื•ืชื ื‘ืžื™ื ื•ื”ื ื ืฆืžื“ื™ื ื–ื” ืœื–ื”,
04:40
they create a stronger molecule, a stronger protein we call gluten.
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ื”ื ื™ื•ืฆืจื™ื ืžื•ืœืงื•ืœื” ื—ื–ืงื”, ื—ืœื‘ื•ืŸ ื—ื–ืง ื™ื•ืชืจ: ื’ืœื•ื˜ืŸ.
04:44
And so we, in the mixing process,
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ื›ืš ืฉื‘ืชื”ืœื™ืš ื”ืขืจื‘ื•ื‘
04:46
have to develop the gluten,
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ืขืœื™ื ื• ืœืคืชื— ืืช ื”ื’ืœื•ื˜ืŸ,
04:48
we have to activate the leaven or the yeast,
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ืขืœื™ื ื• ืœื”ืชื ื™ืข ืืช ืชื”ืœื™ืš ื”ืชืคื™ื—ื” ืื• ืืช ื”ืฉืžืจื™ื,
04:51
and we have to essentially distribute all the ingredients evenly.
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ื•ืœืžืขืฉื” ืœืคื–ืจ ืืช ื›ืœ ื”ืจื›ื™ื‘ื™ื ื‘ืฆื•ืจื” ืฉื•ื•ื”.
04:54
Then we get into fermentation, the third stage,
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ื•ื›ืขืช ืื ื• ืขื•ื‘ืจื™ื ืœื”ืชืกืกื”, ืœืฉืœื‘ ื”ืฉืœื™ืฉื™,
04:56
which is really where the flavor develops.
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ืฉื‘ื• ื‘ืืžืช ืžืชืคืชื— ื”ื˜ืขื.
04:58
The yeast comes alive and starts eating the sugars,
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ื”ืฉืžืจื™ื ืžืชืขื•ืจืจื™ื ืœื—ื™ื™ื ื•ืžืชื—ื™ืœื™ื ืœืื›ื•ืœ ืืช ื”ืกื•ื›ืจื™ื,
05:01
creating carbon dioxide and alcohol --
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ื•ื™ื•ืฆืจื™ื ืคื—ืžืŸ ื“ื•-ื—ืžืฆื ื™ ื•ื›ื•ื”ืœ -
05:03
essentially it's burping and sweating, which is what bread is.
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ื”ื ื‘ืขืฆื ืžื’ื”ืงื™ื ื•ืžื–ื™ืขื™ื, ื•ื–ื”ื• ื”ืœื—ื.
05:06
It's yeast burps and sweat.
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ื’ื™ื”ื•ืงื™ื ื•ื–ื™ืขื” ืฉืœ ืฉืžืจื™ื.
05:08
And somehow, this is transformed --
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ื•ืื™ื›ืฉื”ื• ื–ื” ืžืฉืชื ื” -
05:10
the yeast burps and sweats are later transformed --
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ื”ื’ื™ื”ื•ืงื™ื ื•ื”ื–ื™ืขื” ืฉืœ ื”ืฉืžืจื™ื ื”ื•ืคื›ื™ื ื‘ื”ืžืฉืš -
05:13
and this is really getting to the heart of what makes bread so special
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ื•ื›ืขืช ืื ื• ืžืชืงืจื‘ื™ื ืœืœื‘ ื”ื“ื‘ืจ ืฉื›ื” ืžื™ื™ื—ื“ ืืช ื”ืœื—ื,
05:16
is that it is a transformational food,
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ืฉืžื“ื•ื‘ืจ ื‘ืžื–ื•ืŸ ืฉืœ ื’ื™ืœื’ื•ืœ,
05:18
and we're going to explore that in a minute.
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ื•ืžื™ื“ ื ื—ืงื•ืจ ืืช ื–ื”.
05:20
But then, quickly through the next few stages.
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ืื‘ืœ ื ืขื‘ื•ืจ ื‘ืžื”ื™ืจื•ืช ืขืœ ื”ืฉืœื‘ื™ื ื”ื‘ืื™ื.
05:22
We, after it's fermented and it's developed,
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ืื—ืจื™ ืฉื–ื” ืชืกืก ื•ื”ืชืคืชื—,
05:24
started to develop flavor and character,
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ื•ื”ืชื—ื™ืœ ืœืคืชื— ื˜ืขื ื•ืื•ืคื™,
05:26
we divide it into smaller units.
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ืื ื• ืžื—ืœืงื™ื ืืช ื–ื” ืœื™ื—ื™ื“ื•ืช ืงื˜ื ื•ืช.
05:28
And then we take those units and we shape them. We give them a little pre-shape,
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ื•ืื– ืœื•ืงื—ื™ื ื™ื—ื™ื“ื•ืช ืืœื” ื•ื ื•ืชื ื™ื ืœื”ืŸ ืฆื•ืจื” ืจืืฉื•ื ื™ืช,
05:31
usually a round or a little torpedo shape, sometimes.
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ื‘ื“ืจืš ื›ืœืœ ืขื’ื•ืœื”, ืื• ืœืคืขืžื™ื ื’ืœื™ืœื™ืช.
05:34
That's called "rounding."
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ื–ื” ืงืจื•ื™ "ืœืขื’ืœ".
05:36
And there's a short rest period. It can be for a few seconds.
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ื•ืื– ื™ืฉ ืคืจืง-ื–ืžืŸ ืฉืœ ืžื ื•ื—ื”, ื›ืžื” ืฉื ื™ื•ืช,
05:39
It can be for 20 or 30 minutes. We call that resting or benching.
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20 ืื• 30 ื“ืงื•ืช. ื–ื” ื ืงืจื "ืžื ื•ื—ื”", "ืœื”ืฉืื™ืจ ืขืœ ื”ืงืจืฉ".
05:42
Then we go into final shaping,
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ื•ืื– ืขื•ื‘ืจื™ื ืœืขื™ืฆื•ื‘ ื”ืกื•ืคื™,
05:44
"panning" -- which means putting the shaped loaf on a pan.
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ื”"ืื™ื’ื•ืŸ", ื›ืœื•ืžืจ ื”ื ื—ืช ื”ื›ื™ื›ืจ ื”ืžืขื•ืฆื‘ืช ื‘ืื’ืŸ ื›ืœืฉื”ื•.
05:48
This takes a second, but it's a distinctive stage.
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ื–ื” ืื•ืจืš ืฉื ื™ื”, ืื‘ืœ ื–ื”ื• ืฉืœื‘ ื‘ืคื ื™ ืขืฆืžื•.
05:52
It can be in a basket. It can be in a loaf pan, but we pan it.
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ื–ื• ืขืฉื•ื™ื” ืœื”ื™ื•ืช ืกืœืกืœื” ืื• ืžื—ื‘ืช-ืœื—ื, ืื‘ืœ ืื ื• ืžืื’ื ื™ื ืื•ืชื•.
05:56
And then, stage nine.
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ื•ืื–, ื”ืฉืœื‘ ื”ืชืฉื™ืขื™.
05:58
The fermentation which started at stage three is continuing
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ื”ืชืกื™ืกื” ืฉื”ื—ืœื” ื‘ืฉืœื‘ 3 ื ืžืฉื›ืช
06:01
through all these other stages. Again, developing more flavor.
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ืœื›ืœ ืื•ืจืš ื”ืฉืœื‘ื™ื ื”ืืœื”, ืฉื•ื‘, ื•ืžืคืชื—ืช ืขื•ื“ ื˜ืขื.
06:04
The final fermentation takes place in stage nine.
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ื”ืชืกื™ืกื” ื”ืกื•ืคื™ืช ืžืชืจื—ืฉืช ื‘ืฉืœื‘ ื”ืชืฉื™ืขื™.
06:06
We call it "proofing."
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ืื ื• ืงื•ืจืื™ื ืœื–ื” "ื”ื•ื›ื—ื”".
06:08
Proofing means to prove that the dough is alive.
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ื›ืœื•ืžืจ ื”ื”ื•ื›ื—ื” ืฉื”ื‘ืฆืง ื—ื™.
06:11
And at stage nine we get the dough to the final shape,
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ื•ื‘ืฉืœื‘ ื”ืชืฉื™ืขื™ ืื ื• ืžื‘ื™ืื™ื ืืช ื”ื‘ืฆืง ืœืฆื•ืจืชื• ื”ืกื•ืคื™ืช,
06:14
and it goes into the oven -- stage 10.
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ื•ื”ื•ื ืขื•ื‘ืจ ืœืชื ื•ืจ - ืฉืœื‘ 10.
06:16
Three transformations take place in the oven.
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ื•ื‘ืชื ื•ืจ ืžืชืจื—ืฉื™ื ืฉืœื•ืฉื” ื’ืœื’ื•ืœื™ื.
06:19
The sugars in the dough caramelize in the crust.
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ื”ืกื•ื›ืจื™ื ืฉื‘ื‘ืฆืง ื ืฉื–ืคื™ื ืœืงืจื•ื.
06:22
They give us that beautiful brown crust.
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ื”ื ื ื•ืชื ื™ื ืœื ื• ืืช ื”ืงืจื•ื ื”ื—ื•ื ื•ื”ื™ืคื”.
06:24
Only the crust can caramelize. It's the only place that gets hot enough.
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ืจืง ื”ืงืจื•ื ื™ื›ื•ืœ ืœื”ื™ืฉื–ืฃ. ืจืง ื”ื•ื ื—ื ืžืกืคื™ืง ืœื›ืš.
06:27
Inside, the proteins --
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ื‘ืคื ื™ื, ื”ื—ืœื‘ื•ื ื™ื -
06:29
this gluten -- coagulates.
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ืื•ืชื• ื’ืœื•ื˜ืŸ - ื ืงืจืฉ.
06:31
When it gets to about 160 degrees,
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ื›ืฉื”ื•ื ืžื’ื™ืข ืœ-160 ืžืขืœื•ืช ื‘ืขืจืš,
06:33
the proteins all line up and they create structure,
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ื”ื—ืœื‘ื•ื ื™ื ืžืกืชื“ืจื™ื ื‘ืžื‘ื ื” ื•ื™ื•ืฆืจื™ื ืžื‘ื ื”,
06:35
the gluten structure --
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ืžื‘ื ื” ื”ื’ืœื•ื˜ืŸ -
06:37
what ultimately we will call the crumb of the bread.
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ืžื” ืฉืื ื• ืžื›ื ื™ื "ื”ืชื•ืš" ืฉืœ ื”ืœื—ื.
06:40
And the starches, when they reach about 180 degrees,
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ื•ื”ืขืžื™ืœื ื™ื, ื›ืฉื”ื ืžื’ื™ืขื™ื ืœ-180 ืžืขืœื•ืช ื‘ืขืจืš,
06:42
gelatinize.
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ื”ื•ืคื›ื™ื ืœื’'ืœื˜ื™ืŸ.
06:44
And gelatinization is yet another
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ื•ื”ื”ืคื™ื›ื” ืœื’'ืœื˜ื™ืŸ ื”ื™ื
06:47
oven transformation.
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ื’ืœื’ื•ืœ ื ื•ืกืฃ ืฉืžืชืจื—ืฉ ื‘ืชื ื•ืจ.
06:49
Coagulation, caramelization and gelatinization --
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ื”ืชืงืจืฉื•ืช, ืงื™ืจืžื•ืœ ื•ื”ืคื™ื›ื” ืœื’'ืœื˜ื™ืŸ -
06:52
when the starch is thick and they absorb all the moisture that's around them,
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ื›ืฉื”ืขืžื™ืœืŸ ื ืขืฉื” ืกืžื™ืš ื•ืกื•ืคื— ืืช ื›ืœ ื”ืœื—ื•ืช ืฉืกื‘ื™ื‘ื•,
06:55
they -- they kind of swell, and then they burst.
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ื”ื•ื ืžืชื ืคื—, ื•ืื– ืžืชืคื•ืฆืฅ.
06:58
And they burst, and they spill their guts into the bread.
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ืžืชืคื•ืฆืฅ ื•ืฉื•ืคืš ืืช ืงืจื‘ื™ื• ืœืชื•ืš ื”ืœื—ื.
07:01
So basically now we're eating yeast sweats --
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ื›ืš ืฉืœืžืขืฉื” ืื ื• ืื•ื›ืœื™ื ื–ื™ืขืช ืฉืžืจื™ื,
07:03
sweat, burps and starch guts.
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ื–ื™ืขื”, ื’ื™ื”ื•ืงื™ื ื•ืงืจื‘ื™ื™ื ืฉืœ ืขืžื™ืœืŸ.
07:06
Again, transformed in stage 10 in the oven
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ืฉื•ื‘, ืฉืขื‘ืจื• ื’ืœื’ื•ืœ ื‘ืฉืœื‘ 10 ื‘ืชื ื•ืจ
07:09
because what went into the oven as dough
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ื›ื™ ื”ื ื ื›ื ืกื• ืœืชื•ื›ื• ื‘ืฆื•ืจืช ื‘ืฆืง
07:12
comes out in stage 11 as bread.
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ื•ื”ื ื™ื•ืฆืื™ื ื‘ืฉืœื‘ 11 ื‘ืฆื•ืจืช ืœื—ื.
07:15
And stage 11, we call it cooling --
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ื•ืืช ืฉืœื‘ 11 ืื ื• ืžื›ื ื™ื "ืฆื™ื ื•ืŸ" -
07:17
because we never really eat the bread right away.
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ื›ื™ ืœืขื•ืœื ืื™ื ื ื• ืื•ื›ืœื™ื ืžื™ื“ ืืช ื”ืœื—ื.
07:19
There's a little carry-over baking.
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ื”ืœื—ื ืขื•ื“ ืžืžืฉื™ืš ืœื”ื™ืืคื•ืช.
07:21
The proteins have to set up, strengthen and firm up.
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ื”ื—ืœื‘ื•ื ื™ื ืฆืจื™ื›ื™ื ืœื”ืชื™ื™ืฆื‘, ืœื”ืชื—ื–ืง ื•ืœื”ืชืžืฆืง.
07:25
And then we have stage 12, which the textbooks call "packaging,"
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ื•ืื– ืžื’ื™ืข ืฉืœื‘ 12, ืฉื‘ืกืคืจื™ื ืžื›ื•ื ื” "ืืจื™ื–ื”",
07:29
but my students call "eating."
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ืื‘ืœ ืชืœืžื™ื“ื™ ืžื›ื ื™ื "ืื›ื™ืœื”".
07:31
And so, we're going to be on our own journey today from wheat to eat,
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ืื– ื”ื™ื•ื ื ืฆื ืœืžืกืขื ื• ื”ืคืจื˜ื™ ืžื”ื“ื’ืŸ ืขื“ ืœืฉื•ืœื—ืŸ,
07:34
and in a few minutes we will try this,
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ื•ื‘ืขื•ื“ ื›ืžื” ื“ืงื•ืช ื ื ืกื” ื–ืืช,
07:36
and see if we have succeeded
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ื•ื ืจืื” ืื ื”ืฆืœื—ื ื•
07:39
in fulfilling this baker's mission of pulling out flavor.
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ืœื”ื’ืฉื™ื ืืช ืžืฉื™ืžืช ื”ืื•ืคื” ืœื”ื‘ืœื™ื˜ ืืช ื”ื˜ืขื.
07:42
But I want to go back now and revisit these steps,
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ืืš ื›ืขืช ืื ื™ ืจื•ืฆื” ืœืขื‘ื•ืจ ืขืœ ืฉืœื‘ื™ื ืืœื”,
07:45
and talk about it from the standpoint of transformation,
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ื•ืœื“ื‘ืจ ืขืœื™ื”ื ืžื”ื”ื™ื‘ื˜ ืฉืœ ื’ืœื’ื•ืœื™ ื”ืฆื•ืจื”
07:47
because I really believe that
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ื›ื™ ืื ื™ ื‘ืืžืช ืžืืžื™ืŸ
07:49
all things can be understood --
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ืฉื™ืฉ ืœื”ื‘ื™ืŸ ืืช ื›ืœ ื”ื“ื‘ืจื™ื -
07:52
and this is not my own idea. This goes back to the Scholastics and to the Ancients --
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ื•ื–ื” ืœื ื”ืจืขื™ื•ืŸ ืฉืœื™. ื–ื” ืขื•ื“ ืžื™ืžื™ ื”ืžืœื•ืžื“ื™ื ื•ื”ืงื“ืžื•ื ื™ื -
07:55
that all things can be understood on four levels:
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ืฉื™ืฉ ืœื”ื‘ื™ืŸ ืืช ื›ืœ ื”ื“ื‘ืจื™ื ื‘ืืจื‘ืขื” ืžื™ืฉื•ืจื™ื:
07:57
the literal, the metaphoric or poetic level,
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ื”ืžื™ืฉื•ืจ ื”ืžื™ืœื•ืœื™, ืžื™ืฉื•ืจ ื”ื“ื™ืžื•ื™ื™ื ืื• ื”ืคื•ืื˜ื™ืงื”,
08:01
the political or ethical level.
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ื”ืจืžื” ื”ืคื•ืœื™ื˜ื™ืช ืื• ื”ืžื•ืกืจื™ืช,
08:04
And ultimately, the mystical or sometimes called the "anagogical" level.
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ื•ืœื‘ืกื•ืฃ, ื”ืจืžื” ื”ืžื™ืกื˜ื™ืช, ื”ืงืจื•ื™ื” ืœืขืชื™ื "ืจื•ื—ื ื™ืช".
08:08
It's hard to get to those levels unless you go through the literal.
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ืงืฉื” ืœื”ื’ื™ืข ืœืจืžื•ืช ื”ืืœื” ืื ืœื ืขื•ื‘ืจื™ื ื“ืจืš ื”ืžื™ืœื•ืœื™.
08:11
In fact, Dante says you can't understand the three deeper levels
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ืœื“ื‘ืจื™ ื“ื ื˜ื”, ืื™ืŸ ืœื”ื‘ื™ืŸ ืืช 3 ื”ืจืžื•ืช ื”ืขืžื•ืงื•ืช ื™ื•ืชืจ
08:14
unless you first understand the literal level,
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ืื ืœื ืžื‘ื™ื ื™ื ืงื•ื“ื ื›ืœ ื‘ืžื™ืฉื•ืจ ื”ืžื™ืœื•ืœื™,
08:17
so that's why we're talking literally about bread.
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ื•ืœื›ืŸ ืื ื• ืžื“ื‘ืจื™ื ืขืœ ื”ืœื—ื ื‘ืžืœื™ื.
08:19
But let's kind of look at these stages again
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ืื‘ืœ ื”ื‘ื” ื ืชื‘ื•ื ืŸ ืฉื•ื‘ ื‘ืฉืœื‘ื™ื ืืœื”
08:21
from the standpoint of connections to possibly a deeper level --
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ืžืŸ ื”ื”ื™ื‘ื˜ ืฉืœ ื”ื—ื™ื‘ื•ืจ ื”ืืคืฉืจื™ ืœืจืžื” ืžืขืžื™ืงื” ื™ื•ืชืจ -
08:25
all in my quest for answering the question,
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ื•ื›ืœ ื–ื” ื—ืœืง ืžืžืืžืฆื™ ืœืขื ื•ืช ืขืœ ื”ืฉืืœื”,
08:27
"What is it about bread that's so special?"
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"ืžื” ื”ื•ืคืš ืืช ื”ืœื—ื ืœืžื™ื•ื—ื“ ื›ืœ ื›ืš?"
08:30
And fulfilling this mission of evoking the full potential of flavor.
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ื•ื”ื’ืฉืžืช ืžืฉื™ืžื” ื–ื• ืฉืœ ืขื™ืจื•ืจ ืžืœื•ื ืคื•ื˜ื ืฆื™ืืœ ื”ื˜ืขื.
08:34
Because what happens is,
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ื›ื™ ืžื” ืฉืงื•ืจื” ื”ื•ื,
08:36
bread begins as wheat or any other grain.
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ืฉื”ืœื—ื ืžืชื—ื™ืœ ืืช ื“ืจื›ื• ื›ื—ื™ื˜ื” ืื• ื’ืจืขื™ืŸ ืื—ืจ.
08:39
But what's wheat? Wheat is a grass
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ืืš ืžื”ื™ ื—ื™ื˜ื”? ื—ื™ื˜ื” ื”ื™ื ืขืฉื‘
08:41
that grows in the field.
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ืฉื’ื“ืœ ื‘ืฉื“ื”.
08:43
And, like all grasses, at a certain point it puts out seeds.
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ื•ื›ื›ืœ ืขืฉื‘ ืื—ืจ, ื‘ืฉืœื‘ ืžืกื•ื™ื ื”ื•ื ืžื•ืฆื™ื ื–ืจืขื™ื.
08:47
And we harvest those seeds, and those are the wheat kernels.
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ื•ืื ื—ื ื• ืงื•ืฆืจื™ื ื–ืจืขื™ื ืืœื•, ื•ืืœื• ื’ืจื’ืจื™ ื”ื—ื™ื˜ื”.
08:50
Now, in order to harvest it -- I mean, what's harvesting?
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ื•ื›ื“ื™ ืœืงืฆื•ืจ ืื•ืชื”... ื›ื™ ืžื”ื• ื”ืงืฆื™ืจ?
08:52
It's just a euphemism for killing, right?
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ื–ื• ืจืง ืœืฉื•ืŸ ื ืงื™ื™ื” ืœื”ืจื™ื’ื”, ื ื›ื•ืŸ?
08:56
I mean, that's what's harvest -- we say we harvest the pig, you know?
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ื›ื™ ืžื”ื• ืงืฆื™ืจ? ืื ื• ืื•ืžืจื™ื "ืœืงืฆื•ืจ ืžื™ืฉื”ื•",
08:58
Yes, we slaughter, you know. Yes, that's life.
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ื ื›ื•ืŸ, ืื ื• ื˜ื•ื‘ื—ื™ื. ืืœื” ื”ื—ื™ื™ื.
09:01
We harvest the wheat,
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ืื ื• ืงื•ืฆืจื™ื ืืช ื”ื—ื™ื˜ื”,
09:03
and in harvesting it, we kill it.
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ื•ื‘ืงืฆื™ืจ ื”ื–ื” ืื ื• ื”ื•ืจื’ื™ื ืื•ืชื”.
09:05
Now, wheat is alive,
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ืื– ื”ื—ื™ื˜ื” ื—ื™ื”,
09:07
and as we harvest it, it gives up its seeds.
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ื•ื›ืฉืื ื• ืงื•ืฆืจื™ื ืื•ืชื”, ื”ื™ื ื ื•ืชื ืช ืœื ื• ืืช ื–ืจืขื™ื”.
09:11
Now, at least with seeds we have the potential for future life.
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ื•ืœืคื—ื•ืช ื‘ื–ืจืขื™ื ื™ืฉื ื• ืคื•ื˜ื ืฆื™ืืœ ืœื—ื™ื™ื ื‘ืขืชื™ื“.
09:14
We can plant those in the ground.
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ืื ื• ื™ื›ื•ืœื™ื ืœืฉืชื•ืœ ืื•ืชื ื‘ืื“ืžื”.
09:16
And we save some of those for the next generation.
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ื•ืœืฉืžื•ืจ ื—ืœืง ืžื”ื ืœื“ื•ืจ ื”ื‘ื.
09:18
But most of those seeds get crushed
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ืืš ืจื•ื‘ ื”ื–ืจืขื™ื ื ื˜ื—ื ื™ื
09:20
and turned into flour.
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ื•ื”ื•ืคื›ื™ื ืœืงืžื—.
09:22
And at that point, the wheat has suffered the ultimate indignity.
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ื•ืฉืœื‘ ื–ื” ื”ื•ื ื”ืคื’ื™ืขื” ื”ืงืฉื” ื‘ื™ื•ืชืจ ื‘ื—ื™ื˜ื”.
09:25
It's not only been killed,
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ืœื ืจืง ืฉื”ืจื’ื• ืื•ืชื”,
09:27
but it's been denied any potential for creating future life.
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ื’ื ืฉืœืœื• ืžืžื ื” ื›ืœ ืืคืฉืจื•ืช ืœื‘ืจื•ื ื—ื™ื™ื ืขืชื™ื“ื™ื™ื.
09:30
So we turn it into flour.
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ืื– ืื ื• ื”ื•ืคื›ื™ื ืื•ืชื” ืœืงืžื—.
09:33
So as I said, I think bread is a transformational food.
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ื•ื›ืคื™ ืฉืืžืจืชื™, ื”ืœื—ื ื”ื•ื ืžื–ื•ืŸ ืฉืขื•ื‘ืจ ื’ืœื’ื•ืœื™ื,
09:36
The first transformation -- and, by the way,
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ื”ื’ืœื’ื•ืœ ื”ืจืืฉื•ืŸ... ื•ื“ืจืš ืื’ื‘,
09:39
the definition of transformation for me is
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ื‘ืขื™ื ื™, ื”ื”ื’ื“ืจื” ืฉืœ ื’ืœื’ื•ืœ ื”ื™ื,
09:41
a radical change from one thing into something else.
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ืฉื™ื ื•ื™ ืงื™ืฆื•ื ื™ ืžื“ื‘ืจ ืื—ื“ ืœื“ื‘ืจ ืื—ืจ.
09:44
O.K.? Radical, not subtle.
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ื‘ืกื“ืจ? ืงื™ืฆื•ื ื™, ืœื ืขื“ื™ืŸ.
09:46
Not like hot water made cold,
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ืœื ื›ืžื• ืœืงืจืจ ืžื™ื ื—ืžื™ื,
09:48
or cold water turned hot,
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ืื• ืœื—ืžื ืžื™ื ืงืจื™ื,
09:50
but water boiled off and becoming steam.
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ืืœื ื›ืžื• ื”ืจืชื—ืช ืžื™ื ื•ื”ืคื™ื›ืชื ืœืื“ื™ื.
09:53
That's a transformation, two different things.
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ื–ื”ื• ื’ืœื’ื•ืœ. ืฉื ื™ ื“ื‘ืจื™ื ืฉื•ื ื™ื.
09:55
Well, in this case, the first transformation
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ื•ื‘ืžืงืจื” ื–ื”, ื”ื’ืœื’ื•ืœ ื”ืจืืฉื•ืŸ
09:57
is alive to dead.
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ื”ื•ื ืžื—ื™ื™ื ืœืžื•ื•ืช.
10:00
I'd call that radical.
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ื‘ืขื™ื ื™ ื–ื” ืงื™ืฆื•ื ื™.
10:03
So, we've got now this flour.
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ื•ื›ืขืช ื™ืฉ ืœื ื• ื”ืงืžื— ื”ื–ื”,
10:06
And what do we do? We add some water.
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ื•ืžื” ืื ื• ืขื•ืฉื™ื? ืžื•ืกื™ืคื™ื ืžืขื˜ ืžื™ื.
10:08
In stage one, we weigh it.
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ื‘ืฉืœื‘ ื”ืจืืฉื•ืŸ, ืื ื• ืฉื•ืงืœื™ื ืื•ืชื•.
10:10
In stage two, we add water and salt to it, mix it together,
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ื‘ืฉืœื‘ ื”ืฉื ื™ ืื ื• ืžื•ืกื™ืคื™ื ืœื• ืžื™ื ื•ืžืœื— ื•ืžืขืจื‘ื‘ื™ื,
10:12
and we create something that we call "clay."
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ื•ื™ื•ืฆืจื™ื ืžืฉื”ื• ืฉืžื›ื•ื ื” ื‘ืคื™ื ื• "ื—ื•ืžืจ".
10:14
It's like clay.
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ื–ื” ื“ื•ืžื” ืœื—ื™ืžืจ.
10:16
And we infuse that clay
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ื•ืื ื• ื™ื•ืฆืงื™ื ืœื—ื™ืžืจ ื”ื–ื”
10:18
with an ingredient that we call "leaven."
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ืžืจื›ื™ื‘ ืฉืื ื• ืžื›ื ื™ื "ืžืชืคื™ื—".
10:21
In this case, it's yeast, but yeast is leaven. What does leaven mean?
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ื›ืืŸ ืืœื” ืฉืžืจื™ื, ืืš ื”ืฉืžืจื™ื ืžืชืคื™ื—ื™ื. ืžื” ื–ื” "ืžืชืคื™ื—"?
10:24
Leaven comes from the root word that means enliven --
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ืฉื•ืจืฉ ื”ืžื™ืœื” ื‘ืื ื’ืœื™ืช ืžืฉืžืขื• "ืœืขื•ืจืจ" -
10:28
to vivify, to bring to life.
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ืœื”ื—ื™ื•ืช, ืœืขื•ืจืจ ืœื—ื™ื™ื.
10:32
By the way, what's the Hebrew word for clay? Adam.
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ืื’ื‘, ืžื” ื”ืžื™ืœื” ื‘ืขื‘ืจื™ืช ืœ"ื—ื•ืžืจ"? - "ืื“ื".
10:36
You see, the baker, in this moment,
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ืืชื ืžื‘ื™ื ื™ื, ื‘ืฉืœื‘ ื–ื” ื”ืื•ืคื”
10:38
has become, in a sense,
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ื”ื•ืคืš ื‘ืžื•ื‘ืŸ ืžืกื•ื™ื
10:40
sort of, the God of his dough, you know, and his dough, well,
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ืœืืœื•ื”ื™ ื”ืขื™ืกื” ืฉืœื•, ื•ืื™ืœื• ื”ืขื™ืกื” ืฉืœื•, ื•ื‘ื›ืŸ,
10:43
while it's not an intelligent life form, is now alive.
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ืืฃ ืฉืื™ื ื ื” ืฆื•ืจืช ื—ื™ื™ื ืชื‘ื•ื ื™ืช, ื”ืจื™ื”ื™ ื›ืขืช ื—ื™ื”.
10:46
And we know it's alive because in stage three,
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ื•ื™ื“ื•ืข ืœื ื• ืฉื”ื™ื ื—ื™ื”. ื›ื™ ื‘ืฉืœื‘ ื”ืฉืœื™ืฉื™
10:48
it grows. Growth is the proof of life.
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ื”ื™ื ื’ื“ืœื”, ื•ื”ื’ื“ื™ืœื” ื”ื™ื ื”ื”ื•ื›ื—ื” ืœื—ื™ื™ื.
10:51
And while it's growing, all these
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ื•ื‘ืขื•ื“ื” ื’ื“ืœื”, ื›ืœ ื”ื’ืœื’ื•ืœื™ื ื”ืืœื”,
10:53
literal transformations are taking place.
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ืคืฉื•ื˜ื ื›ืžืฉืžืขื, ืžืชืจื—ืฉื™ื.
10:55
Enzymes are breaking forth sugars.
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ื”ืื ื–ื™ืžื™ื ืžืคืจืงื™ื ืืช ื”ืกื•ื›ืจื™ื,
10:57
Yeast is eating sugar and
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ื”ืฉืžืจื™ื ืื•ื›ืœื™ื ืืช ื”ืกื•ื›ืจ
10:59
turning it into carbon dioxide and alcohol.
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ื•ื”ื•ืคื›ื™ื ืื•ืชื• ืœืคื—ืžืŸ ื“ื•-ื—ืžืฆื ื™ ื•ืœื›ื•ื”ืœ.
11:02
Bacteria is in there, eating the same sugars,
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ื™ืฉ ืฉื ื—ื™ื™ื“ืงื™ื ืฉืื•ื›ืœื™ื ืืช ืื•ืชื ื”ืกื•ื›ืจื™ื,
11:04
turning them into acids.
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ื•ื”ื•ืคื›ื™ื ืื•ืชื ืœื—ื•ืžืฆื•ืช.
11:06
In other words, personality and character's being developed in this dough
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ื›ืœื•ืžืจ, ืื™ืฉื™ื•ืช ื•ืื•ืคื™ ืžืชืคืชื—ื™ื ื‘ืขื™ืกื” ื”ื–ื•
11:09
under the watchful gaze of the baker.
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ืชื—ืช ืขื™ื ื• ื”ื‘ื•ื—ื ืช ืฉืœ ื”ืื•ืคื”.
11:12
And the baker's choices all along the way
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ื•ื”ื‘ื—ื™ืจื•ืช ืฉืขื•ืฉื” ื”ืื•ืคื” ืœื›ืœ ืื•ืจืš ื”ื“ืจืš
11:14
determine the outcome of the product.
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ืงื•ื‘ืขื•ืช ืืช ื”ืชื•ืฆืื” ื”ืกื•ืคื™ืช ืฉืœ ื”ืžื•ืฆืจ.
11:18
A subtle change in temperature -- a subtle change in time --
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ืฉื™ื ื•ื™ ืงืœ ื‘ื˜ืžืคืจื˜ื•ืจื”, ืฉื™ื ื•ื™ ืงืœ ื‘ื–ืžืŸ -
11:21
it's all about a balancing act between time, temperature
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ื›ืœ ื”ืขื ื™ื™ืŸ ื”ื•ื ืžืขืจื›ืช ืื™ื–ื•ื ื™ื ื‘ื™ืŸ ื–ืžืŸ, ื—ื•ื
11:23
and ingredients. That's the art of baking.
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ื•ืจื›ื™ื‘ื™ื. ื–ืืช ืืžื ื•ืช ื”ืืคื™ื™ื”.
11:25
So all these things are determined by the baker,
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ื•ื›ืœ ืืœื” ื ืงื‘ืขื™ื ืขืœ-ื™ื“ื™ ื”ืื•ืคื”,
11:27
and the bread goes through some stages, and characters develop.
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ื•ื”ืœื—ื ืขื•ื‘ืจ ื›ืœ ืžื™ื ื™ ืฉืœื‘ื™ื, ื•ืžืืคื™ื™ื ื™ื• ืžืชืคืชื—ื™ื.
11:30
And then we divide it, and this one big piece of dough
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ื•ืื– ืื ื• ืžื—ืœืงื™ื ืื•ืชื•, ื•ื—ืชื™ื›ืช ื‘ืฆืง ื’ื“ื•ืœื” ื–ื•
11:32
is divided into smaller units, and each of those units
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ืžื—ื•ืœืงืช ืœื™ื—ื™ื“ื•ืช ืงื˜ื ื•ืช, ื•ื›ืœ ืื—ืช ืžื”ืŸ
11:34
are given shape by the baker.
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ืžืขื•ืฆื‘ืช ื‘ื™ื“ื™ ื”ืื•ืคื”.
11:36
And as they're shaped, they're raised again,
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ื•ืชื•ืš ื›ื“ื™ ืขื™ืฆื•ื‘ืŸ ื”ืŸ ืžืžืฉื™ื›ื•ืช ืœื’ื“ื•ืœ,
11:38
all along proving that they're alive,
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ื•ืžืžืฉื™ื›ื•ืช ืœื”ื•ื›ื™ื— ืฉื”ืŸ ื—ื™ื•ืช,
11:40
and developing character.
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ื•ืžืคืชื—ื•ืช ืื•ืคื™.
11:42
And at stage 10, we take it to the oven.
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ื•ื‘ืฉืœื‘ 10 ืื ื• ืžืขื‘ื™ืจื™ื ืื•ืชืŸ ืœืชื ื•ืจ.
11:45
It's still dough. Nobody eats bread dough --
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ื–ื” ืขื“ื™ื™ืŸ ื‘ืฆืง, ืื™ืฉ ืœื ืื•ื›ืœ ื‘ืฆืง ืฉืœ ืœื—ื--
11:47
a few people do, I think, but not too many.
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ื™ืฉ ืžืขื˜ื™ื, ื ืจืื” ืœื™, ืืš ืœื ืจื‘ื™ื.
11:49
I've met some dough eaters, but --
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ืคื’ืฉืชื™ ื›ืžื” ืื•ื›ืœื™ ื‘ืฆืง, ืื‘ืœ -
11:51
it's not the staff of life, right? Bread is the staff of life.
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ื–ื” ืื™ื ื ื• 'ืœื—ื ื”ื—ื™ื™ื', ื ื›ื•ืŸ? ื”ืœื—ื ืขืฆืžื• ื”ื•ื 'ืœื—ื ื”ื—ื™ื™ื'.
11:55
But dough is what we're working with,
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ื•ืื™ืœื• ื”ื‘ืฆืง ื”ื•ื ืžื” ืฉืื ื• ืขื•ื‘ื“ื™ื ืื™ืชื•,
11:57
and we take that dough to the oven,
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ื•ืื ื• ืžืขื‘ื™ืจื™ื ืืช ื”ื‘ืฆืง ื”ื–ื” ืœืชื ื•ืจ,
11:59
and it goes into the oven. As soon as the interior temperature of that dough
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ื”ื•ื ื ื›ื ืก ืœืชื ื•ืจ. ืžื™ื“ ื›ืฉื”ื—ื•ื ื”ืคื ื™ืžื™ ื‘ื‘ืฆืง ื”ื–ื”
12:03
crosses the threshold of 140 degrees,
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ื—ื•ืฆื” ืืช ืกืฃ ื”-140 ืžืขืœื•ืช,
12:05
it passes what we call the "thermal death point."
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ื”ื‘ืฆืง ืขื•ื‘ืจ ืืช "ื ืงื•ื“ืช ื”ืžื•ื•ืช ื”ืชืจืžื™ืช", ื˜ื™-ื“ื™-ืคื™.
12:10
Students love that TDP. They think it's the name of a video game.
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ื”ืชืœืžื™ื“ื™ื ืื•ื”ื‘ื™ื ืืช ื”ืฉื. ื–ื” ื ืฉืžืข ืœื”ื ื›ืžื• ืžืฉื—ืง ืžื—ืฉื‘.
12:13
But it's the thermal death point -- all life ceases there.
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ืื‘ืœ ื–ื• ื ืงื•ื“ืช ื”ืžื•ื•ืช ื”ืชืจืžื™ืช: ื›ืœ ื”ื—ื™ื™ื ื ืคืกืงื™ื ืื–.
12:16
The yeast, whose mission it has been up till now to raise the dough,
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ื”ืฉืžืจื™ื, ืฉืžืฉื™ืžืชื ืขื“ ื›ื” ื”ื™ืชื” ืœื”ืจื™ื ืืช ื”ื‘ืฆืง,
12:20
to enliven it, to vivify it,
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ืœื”ืชืคื™ื— ืื•ืชื•, ืœื”ื—ื™ื•ืชื•,
12:22
in order to complete its mission,
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ืขืœ ืžื ืช ืœื”ืฉืœื™ื ืืช ืžืฉื™ืžืชื,
12:24
which is also to turn this dough into bread,
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ืฉื”ื™ื ื’ื ื”ืคื™ื›ืช ื”ื‘ืฆืง ืœืœื—ื,
12:26
has to give up its life.
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ืฆืจื™ื›ื™ื ืœืžืกื•ืจ ืืช ื—ื™ื™ื”ื.
12:28
So you see the symbolism at work? It's starting to come forth a little bit, you know.
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ืืชื ืจื•ืื™ื ืืช ื”ืกืžืœื™ื•ืช ื›ืืŸ? ื”ื™ื ืžืชื—ื™ืœื” ืœื”ืชื‘ืจืจ.
12:31
It's starting to make sense to me --
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ื‘ืขื™ื ื™ ื–ื” ืžืชื—ื™ืœ ืœื”ื™ื•ืช ื”ื’ื™ื•ื ื™ -
12:35
what goes in is dough,
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ื ื›ื ืก ื‘ืฆืง,
12:37
what comes out is bread --
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ื•ื™ื•ืฆื ืœื—ื -
12:39
or it goes in alive,
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ืื• ื ื›ื ืกื™ื ื—ื™ื™ื,
12:41
comes out dead.
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ื•ื™ื•ืฆื ืžื•ื•ืช.
12:43
Third transformation. First transformation, alive to dead.
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ื–ื” ื”ื’ืœื’ื•ืœ ื”ืฉืœื™ืฉื™. ื”ืจืืฉื•ืŸ: ืžื—ื™ื™ื ืœืžื•ื•ืช.
12:46
Second transformation, dead brought back to life.
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ื”ืฉื ื™: ืžื”ืžื•ื•ืช - ื‘ื—ื–ืจื” ืœื—ื™ื™ื.
12:50
Third transformation, alive to dead --
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ื•ื”ืฉืœื™ืฉื™, ืžื—ื™ื™ื ืœืžื•ื•ืช -
12:52
but dough to bread.
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ืืš ืžื‘ืฆืง - ืœืœื—ื.
12:55
Or another analogy would be,
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ื“ื™ืžื•ื™ ื ื•ืกืฃ ืขืฉื•ื™ ืœื”ื™ื•ืช
12:57
a caterpillar has been turned into a butterfly.
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ื–ื—ืœ ืฉื”ื•ืคืš ืœืคืจืคืจ.
13:00
And it's what comes out of the oven
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ื•ืžื” ืฉื™ื•ืฆื ืžื”ืชื ื•ืจ
13:02
that is what we call the staff of life.
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ื”ื•ื ืžื” ืฉืื ื• ืžื›ื ื™ื "ืœื—ื ื”ื—ื™ื™ื".
13:05
This is the product
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ื–ื”ื• ื”ืชื•ืฆืจ
13:07
that
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ืฉืื•ืชื•
13:10
everyone in the world eats, that is so difficult to give up.
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ืื•ื›ืœื™ื ื‘ืขื•ืœื ื›ื•ืœื, ื•ืฉื›ืœ ื›ืš ืงืฉื” ืœื•ื•ืชืจ ืขืœื™ื•.
13:14
It's so
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ื”ื•ื ื›ืœ ื›ืš
13:16
deeply embedded in our psyches that
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ื˜ื‘ื•ืข ืขืžื•ืง ื‘ื ืคืฉื ื•, ืขื“ ื›ื™
13:19
bread is used as a symbol for life.
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ื”ืœื—ื ืžื”ื•ื•ื” ืกืžืœ ืœื—ื™ื™ื.
13:22
It's used as a symbol for transformation.
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ื”ื•ื ืžื”ื•ื•ื” ืกืžืœ ืœืฉื™ื ื•ื™ ืฆื•ืจื”.
13:27
And so, as we get to stage 12 and we partake of that,
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ื•ื›ืš, ื›ืฉืื ื• ืžื’ื™ืขื™ื ืœืฉืœื‘ 12 ื•ืžืชื›ื‘ื“ื™ื ื‘ื•,
13:30
again completing the life cycle,
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ืื ื—ื ื• ืžืฉืœื™ืžื™ื ืฉื•ื‘ ืืช ืžืขื’ืœ ื”ื—ื™ื™ื,
13:33
you know, we have a chance to essentially ingest that --
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ื•ื–ื•ื›ื™ื ื‘ื”ื–ื“ืžื ื•ืช ืœื”ื›ื ื™ืกื• ื‘ืคื•ืขืœ ืืœ ืคื™ื ื• -
13:36
it nurtures us, and we continue to carry on
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ื”ื•ื ืžื–ื™ืŸ ืื•ืชื ื•, ื•ืื ื• ืžืžืฉื™ื›ื™ื ื‘ื—ื™ื™ื ื•
13:39
and have opportunities to ponder
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ื•ื–ื•ื›ื™ื ืœื”ืจื”ืจ
13:41
things like this.
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ื‘ื“ื‘ืจื™ื ื”ืืœื”.
13:43
So this is what I've learned from bread.
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ืื– ื–ื” ืžื” ืฉืœืžื“ืชื™ ืžืŸ ื”ืœื—ื.
13:45
This is what bread has taught me in my journey.
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ื–ื” ืžื” ืฉื”ืœื—ื ืœื™ืžื“ ืื•ืชื™ ืœืื•ืจืš ืžืกืขื™.
13:48
And what we're going to attempt to do
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ื•ืžื” ืฉื ื ืกื” ืœืขืฉื•ืช
13:50
with this bread here, again,
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ืขื ื”ืœื—ื ื”ื–ื”, ืฉื•ื‘,
13:52
is to use, in addition to everything we talked about,
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ื”ื•ื ืœื”ืฉืชืžืฉ, ื ื•ืกืฃ ืขืœ ื›ืœ ืžื” ืฉืฉื•ื—ื—ื ื• ืขืœื™ื•,
13:55
this bread we're going to call "spent grain bread"
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ื‘ืœื—ื ื”ื–ื” ืฉืื•ืชื• ื ื›ื ื” "ืœื—ื ื’ืคืช"
13:58
because, as you know, bread-making is very similar to beer-making.
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ื›ื™ ื›ื™ื“ื•ืข ืœื›ื, ื”ื›ื ืช ืœื—ื ื“ื•ืžื” ืžืื“ ืœื”ื›ื ืช ื‘ื™ืจื”.
14:01
Beer is basically liquid bread,
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ื‘ื™ืจื” ื”ื™ื ื‘ืขืฆื ืœื—ื ื ื•ื–ืœื™,
14:03
or bread is solid beer.
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ืื• ืฉื”ืœื—ื ื”ื•ื ื‘ื™ืจื” ืžื•ืฆืงื”.
14:05
And --
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ื• --
14:07
(Laughter)
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[ืฆื—ื•ืง]
14:08
they -- they're invented around the same time. I think beer came first.
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ื”ื ื”ื•ืžืฆืื• ื‘ืขืจืš ื‘ืื•ืชื” ื”ืขืช. ืœื“ืขืชื™ ื”ื‘ื™ืจื” ืงื“ืžื” ืœืœื—ื
14:11
And the Egyptian who was tending the beer fell asleep
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ื”ืžืฆืจื™ื ืฉืฉืžืจื• ืขืœ ื”ื‘ื™ืจื” ื ืจื“ืžื•
14:14
in the hot, Egyptian sun, and it turned into bread.
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ื‘ืฉืžืฉ ื”ืžืฆืจื™ืช ื”ืœื•ื”ื˜ืช, ื•ื”ื‘ื™ืจื” ื”ืคื›ื” ืœืœื—ื.
14:16
But we've got this bread,
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ืื– ื™ืฉ ืœื ื• ื›ืืŸ ื”ืœื—ื ื”ื–ื”,
14:18
and what I did here is to try to, again,
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ื•ืžื” ืฉื ื™ืกื™ืชื™ ืœืขืฉื•ืช ื›ืืŸ ื”ื•ื, ืฉื•ื‘,
14:20
evoke even more flavor from this grain,
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ืœื”ื‘ืœื™ื˜ ืขื•ื“ ื™ื•ืชืจ ืืช ื”ื˜ืขื ื‘ื’ืจืขื™ืŸ ื”ื–ื”,
14:24
was we've added into it the spent grain from beer-making.
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ืข"ื™ ื”ื•ืกืคืช ื”ื’ืคืช ืฉื ื•ืชืจื” ืžื‘ื™ืฉื•ืœ ื”ื‘ื™ืจื”.
14:27
And if you make this bread, you can use any kind of spent grain from any type of beer.
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ื•ื›ืฉืชืืคื• ืืช ื”ืœื—ื ื”ื–ื” ืชื•ื›ืœื• ืœื”ื•ืกื™ืฃ ื›ืœ ื’ืคืช ืžื›ืœ ื‘ื™ืจื”.
14:31
I like dark spent grain. Today we're using a light spent grain
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ืื ื™ ืื•ื”ื‘ ื’ืคืช ืฉื—ื•ืจื”. ื”ื™ื•ื ื ืฉืชืžืฉ ื‘ื’ืคืช ื‘ื”ื™ืจื”
14:34
that's actually from, like, some kind of a lager of some sort --
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ืฉืžืงื•ืจื” ืœืžืขืฉื” ื”ื•ื ื‘ืกื•ื’ ื›ืœืฉื”ื• ืฉืœ ื‘ื™ืจืช ืœืื’ืจ -
14:37
a light lager or an ale -- that is wheat and barley that's been toasted.
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ื‘ื™ืจืช ืœืื’ืจ ืงืœื” ืื• ืฉื™ื›ืจ ืžื—ื™ื˜ื” ื•ืฉืขื•ืจื” ืงืœื•ื™ื™ื.
14:41
In other words, the beer-maker knows also how to evoke flavor from the grains
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ื›ืœื•ืžืจ, ื’ื ืžื‘ืฉืœ ื”ื‘ื™ืจื” ื™ื•ื“ืข ืœืขื•ืจืจ ืืช ื˜ืขื ื”ื’ืจืขื™ื ื™ื
14:44
by using sprouting and malting and roasting.
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ื‘ืืžืฆืขื•ืช ื”ื ื‘ื˜ื”, ื™ื™ืฆื•ืจ ืœืชืช ื•ืงืœื™ื™ื”.
14:47
We're going to take some of that, and put it into the bread.
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ื ื™ืงื— ืžืขื˜ ืžื–ื” ื•ื ื›ื ื™ืก ืœืœื—ื.
14:49
So now we not only have a high-fiber bread,
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ื•ื›ืขืช ื™ืฉ ืœื ื• ืœื ืจืง ืœื—ื ืขืชื™ืจ ืกื™ื‘ื™ื,
14:52
but now fiber on top of fiber.
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ืืœื ืกื™ื‘ื™ื ื•ืขื•ื“ ืกื™ื‘ื™ื.
14:54
And so this is, again, hopefully
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ื•ื–ื”, ืื ื™ ืฉื•ื‘ ืžืงื•ื•ื”,
14:57
not only a healthy bread,
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ืœื ืจืง ืœื—ื ื‘ืจื™ื,
14:59
but a bread that you will enjoy.
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ืืœื ื’ื ืœื—ื ืฉืชื™ื”ื ื• ืžืžื ื•.
15:01
So, if I, kind of, break this bread,
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ืื– ืื ืื‘ืฆืข ืืช ื”ืœื—ื ื”ื–ื”,
15:04
maybe we can share this now a little bit here.
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ืื•ืœื™ ื ื•ื›ืœ ืœื”ืชื—ืœืง ื‘ื• ืžืขื˜ ื›ืืŸ.
15:07
We'll start a little piece here,
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ื ืชื—ื™ืœ ืขื ื—ืชื™ื›ื” ืงื˜ื ื” ื›ืืŸ,
15:09
and I'm going to take a little piece here --
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ืืงื— ื—ืชื™ื›ื” ื ื•ืกืคืช ื›ืืŸ -
15:11
I think I'd better taste it myself before you have it at lunch.
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ื›ื“ืื™ ืฉืื˜ืขื ืื•ืชื• ื‘ืขืฆืžื™ ืœืคื ื™ ืฉื ืื›ืœ ืื•ืชื• ื‘ืฆื”ืจื™ื™ื.
15:14
I'll leave you
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ืืฉืื™ืจ ืืชื›ื
15:17
with what I call the baker's blessing.
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ืขื ืžื” ืฉืื ื™ ืžื›ื ื” "ื‘ืจื›ืช ื”ืื•ืคื”".
15:19
May your crust be crisp,
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ืžื™ ื™ื™ืชืŸ ื•ื”ืงืจื•ื ืฉืœื›ื ื™ื”ื™ื” ืคืจื™ืš,
15:21
and your bread always rise.
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ื•ืœื—ืžื›ื ืชืžื™ื“ ื™ืขืœื”.
15:24
Thank you.
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ืชื•ื“ื” ืจื‘ื”.
ืขืœ ืืชืจ ื–ื”

ืืชืจ ื–ื” ื™ืฆื™ื’ ื‘ืคื ื™ื›ื ืกืจื˜ื•ื ื™ YouTube ื”ืžื•ืขื™ืœื™ื ืœืœื™ืžื•ื“ ืื ื’ืœื™ืช. ืชื•ื›ืœื• ืœืจืื•ืช ืฉื™ืขื•ืจื™ ืื ื’ืœื™ืช ื”ืžื•ืขื‘ืจื™ื ืขืœ ื™ื“ื™ ืžื•ืจื™ื ืžื”ืฉื•ืจื” ื”ืจืืฉื•ื ื” ืžืจื—ื‘ื™ ื”ืขื•ืœื. ืœื—ืฅ ืคืขืžื™ื™ื ืขืœ ื”ื›ืชื•ื‘ื™ื•ืช ื‘ืื ื’ืœื™ืช ื”ืžื•ืฆื’ื•ืช ื‘ื›ืœ ื“ืฃ ื•ื™ื“ืื• ื›ื“ื™ ืœื”ืคืขื™ืœ ืืช ื”ืกืจื˜ื•ืŸ ืžืฉื. ื”ื›ืชื•ื‘ื™ื•ืช ื’ื•ืœืœื•ืช ื‘ืกื ื›ืจื•ืŸ ืขื ื”ืคืขืœืช ื”ื•ื•ื™ื“ืื•. ืื ื™ืฉ ืœืš ื”ืขืจื•ืช ืื• ื‘ืงืฉื•ืช, ืื ื ืฆื•ืจ ืื™ืชื ื• ืงืฉืจ ื‘ืืžืฆืขื•ืช ื˜ื•ืคืก ื™ืฆื™ืจืช ืงืฉืจ ื–ื”.

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