Peter Reinhart: The art of baking bread

211,486 views ・ 2009-01-16

TED


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譯者: Yen-chung Nora Huang 審譯者: Shelley Krishna Tsang
00:16
This is a wheat bread, a whole wheat bread,
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這是一個麵包,全麥麵包
00:18
and it's made with a new technique
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是由一個我嘗試了一段時間的
00:20
that I've been playing around with,
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全新技術所製成的
00:22
and developing and writing about which, for lack of a better name,
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我研發和撰寫這個技術,但還沒幫它取個好一點的名字
00:24
we call the epoxy method.
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就先叫它”環氧合成樹脂烘培法“
00:26
And I call it an epoxy method because --
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我知道它聽起來不是很可口
00:28
it's not very appetizing. I understand that --
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我之所以稱它為”環氧合成樹脂烘培法“ --
00:30
but -- but
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是因為
00:32
if you think about epoxy, what's epoxy?
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如果你想想,什麼是環氧合成樹脂?
00:34
It's two resins that are, sort of,
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就是兩種樹脂
00:36
in and of themselves -- neither of which can make glue,
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兩種都無法拿來單獨製成膠水
00:39
but when you put the two together,
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但如果把它們混在一起
00:41
something happens. A bond takes place,
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它就會發生作用,產生黏性
00:42
and you get this very strong, powerful
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然後形成一種非常強力的
00:44
adhesive.
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黏著劑
00:46
Well, in this technique,
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過去的20年左右,
00:48
what I've tried to do is kind of
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我嘗試著
00:50
gather all of the knowledge that the bread-baking world,
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將烘培麵包的知識、
00:52
the artisan bread-baking community,
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與整個烘培業、
00:54
has been trying to accumulate over the last 20 years or so --
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和這個技術結合在一起。
00:57
since we've been engaged in a bread renaissance in America --
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我們都致力於美國麵包的復興
01:00
and put it together to come up with a method
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也想齊心協力研發出一種能做出
01:03
that would help to take whole-grain breads.
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美味五榖麵包的方法
01:06
And let's face it, everyone's trying to move towards whole grains.
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但誰不是朝這方向邁進呢?
01:09
We finally, after 40 years of knowing
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四十年前,我們已經知道
01:12
that wholegrain was a healthier option,
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五榖麵包是個較健康的選擇
01:14
we're finally getting to the point where we actually are tipping over
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現在,終於做到更大的突破
01:17
and attempting to actually eat them.
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人們開始試著真的吃它了!
01:19
(Laughter)
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(笑聲)
01:21
The challenge, though, for a wholegrain baker is,
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但對五榖麵包烘培師父真正的挑戰
01:23
you know, how do you make it taste good?
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是要如何將它做得好吃?
01:26
Because whole grain -- it's easy with white flour
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用白麵粉很容易就能做出好吃的麵包,
01:28
to make a good-tasting bread. White flour is sweet.
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因為白麵粉是甜的
01:31
It's mainly starch, and starch, when you break it down --
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它的主要成份是澱粉,而澱粉分解後
01:34
what is starch? It's -- thank you -- sugar, yes.
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會是什麼?是...謝謝!沒錯,就是糖
01:37
So a baker, and a good baker,
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所以,一個厲害的烘培師
01:39
knows how to pull or draw forth
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就懂得要怎麼引出
01:42
the inherent sugar trapped in the starch.
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澱粉裡含有的糖
01:45
With whole grain bread, you have other obstacles.
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但做五榖麵包,你會遇到別的困難
01:47
You've got bran, which is probably the healthiest part of the bread for us,
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五榖面包含有麥麩,這大概是麵包裡最健康的部份了
01:50
or the fiber for us because it is just loaded with fiber,
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因為它含有大量的纖維
01:53
for the bran is fiber.
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麥麩富含纖維
01:55
It's got germ. Those are the good things,
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還有胚芽,也是個好東西
01:57
but those aren't the tastiest parts of the wheat.
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但卻不是小麥裡最好吃的部份
01:59
So whole grain breads historically
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所以,歷來,
02:02
have had sort of this onus of being health food breads,
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五榖麵包背負著"健康食品"的重擔
02:04
and people don't like to eat,
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人們不喜歡吃所謂的"健康食品"
02:06
quote, health food. They like to eat healthy and healthily,
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雖然大家喜歡吃得健康
02:09
but when we think of something as a health food,
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但當我們提到"健康食品"的時候
02:11
we think of it as something we eat out of obligation,
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都會想到一些不情願吃的東西
02:14
not out of passion and love for the flavor.
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不是因為自己愛那個口味而吃它
02:17
And ultimately, the challenge of the baker,
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所以,對烘培師、讀餐飲的學生、
02:20
the challenge of every culinary student, of every chef,
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以及廚師而言,最終極的挑戰,
02:22
is to deliver flavor.
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就是傳達食物的美味
02:25
Flavor is king. Flavor rules.
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美味是至尊,美味決定一切。
02:27
I call it the flavor rule. Flavor rules.
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我稱它為“美味法則”,美味決定一切。
02:29
And -- and
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因此 --
02:31
you can get somebody to eat something that's good for them once,
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你可以讓人們嘗試對他們有益的食物,
02:34
but they won't eat it again if they don't like it, right?
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但他們如果不喜歡的話,就不會再試下一次,對吧?
02:37
So, this is the challenge for this bread.
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這也是製作這個麵包的挑戰
02:39
We're going to try this at lunch, and
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待會兒午餐時間我們可以試吃看看
02:41
I'll explain a bit more about it,
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我先說多一點關於它的故事
02:43
but it's made not only with two types of pre-doughs --
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它不是只用兩種生麵團做成的
02:46
this attempt, again, at bringing out flavor
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我們是要試著把味道帶出來,
02:48
is to make a piece of dough
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秘訣是在將麵團加入酵母的前一天
02:50
the day before that is not leavened.
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就先做好一個麵團
02:53
It's just dough that is wet.
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這個麵團是濕潤的
02:55
It's hydrated dough we call "the soaker" --
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這含有水份的的麵團,我們叫它”酒鬼“
02:57
that helps to start enzyme activity.
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它對發酵過程有幫助
02:59
And enzymes are the secret, kind of, ingredient in dough
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而酵素就像是引出麵團香味的
03:02
that brings out flavor.
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秘密武器
03:04
It starts to release the sugars trapped in the starch.
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酵素的功用就是
03:06
That's what enzymes are doing.
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將澱粉裡的糖釋放出來
03:08
And so, if we can release some of those,
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所以,如果能釋放其中一部分
03:10
they become accessible to us in our palate.
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我們的味覺神經就會偵查到它
03:12
They become accessible to the yeast as food.
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酵母也會開始作用
03:15
They become accessible to the oven for caramelization
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麵包也才能在烤箱裡產生焦糖化的過程
03:18
to give us a beautiful crust.
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讓外皮香脆
03:20
The other pre-dough
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另一個麵團
03:22
that we make is fermented -- our pre-ferment.
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是已經先發酵過的,也就是老麵
03:24
And it's made -- it can be a sourdough starter, or what we call a "biga"
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可以把它當成發酵麵團的觸媒,也稱它做 ”biga(意式酵頭)“
03:27
or any other kind of pre-fermented dough with a little yeast in it,
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或是使用任何其他含有酵母、先經過發酵的麵團
03:30
and that starts to develop flavor also.
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它會把麵包的香味帶出來
03:33
And on day two, we put those two pieces together. That's the epoxy.
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第二天,我們把兩團麵混合在一起,這就是”環氧合成樹脂烘培法“
03:36
And we're hoping that, sort of, the
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然後,我們期待
03:38
enzyme piece of dough
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加入酵素的麵團
03:40
becomes the fuel pack for the leavened piece of dough,
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能夠成為酵母麵團的能量來源
03:43
and when we put them together and add the final ingredients,
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然後,將它們混合後,我們再加入最後的幾項材料
03:46
we can create a bread that does evoke
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我們就可以做出一個
03:48
the full potential of flavor trapped in the grain.
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能激發出五榖中所有香味的麵包了
03:51
That's the challenge. Okay, so, now, what we --
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這可真是個挑戰啊。好,現在,
03:53
in the journey of wheat, let's go back and look at these 12 stages.
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在這個小麥之旅中,我們來回顧一下這12道程序
03:57
I'm going to go through them very quickly and then revisit them.
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我會先很快的帶過,之後再回顧一次
03:59
Okay, we're going to start with the first stage.
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從第一個步驟開始
04:03
And this is what every student has to begin with.
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這也是所有的學生最先必須學習的
04:06
Everyone who works in the culinary world knows that
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每個烹飪界裡的人都一定知道
04:08
the first stage of cooking is "mise en place,"
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第一步驟就是 "mise en place"(法文)
04:11
which is just a French way of saying, "get organized."
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也就是“井井有條”
04:16
Everything in its place. First stage.
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每樣東西都各就各位。第一步。
04:19
So in baking we call it scaling -- weighing out the ingredients.
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而烘培裡,我們就要做秤重的工作:量材料的重量
04:21
Stage two is mixing. We take the ingredients and we mix them.
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第二步驟是混合,把材料混合在一起
04:24
We have to develop the gluten.
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我們得做出麵筋
04:26
There's no gluten in flour. There's only the potential for gluten.
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但麵粉裡並沒有麵筋這個成分
04:29
Here's another kind of prefiguring of epoxy
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所以在這兒,又有另一種類似環氧合成樹脂的做法
04:32
because we've got glutenin and gliadin,
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因為我們有 小麥蛋白 和 麥醇溶蛋白
04:34
neither of which are strong enough to make a good bread.
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兩種都沒辦法單獨製做出好麵包
04:37
But when they get hydrated and they bond to each other,
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但當遇到水份時,它們會結合在一起
04:40
they create a stronger molecule, a stronger protein we call gluten.
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形成一個更有力的蛋白質分子,我們稱之為 麵筋
04:44
And so we, in the mixing process,
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所以在混合的程序中
04:46
have to develop the gluten,
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我們要做出麵筋
04:48
we have to activate the leaven or the yeast,
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也要讓酵素、酵母產生作用
04:51
and we have to essentially distribute all the ingredients evenly.
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也要把材料按準確的比例加入
04:54
Then we get into fermentation, the third stage,
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然後進入第三階段--發酵
04:56
which is really where the flavor develops.
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也是香味真正發展的過程
04:58
The yeast comes alive and starts eating the sugars,
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酵母開始活了過來,然後開始吃掉糖類
05:01
creating carbon dioxide and alcohol --
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產生二氧化碳和酒精
05:03
essentially it's burping and sweating, which is what bread is.
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基本上,也就是酵母正在打嗝、流汗
05:06
It's yeast burps and sweat.
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而麵包就是酵母打的嗝、流的汗
05:08
And somehow, this is transformed --
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但基於某種原因
05:10
the yeast burps and sweats are later transformed --
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酵母的嗝和汗會被轉化
05:13
and this is really getting to the heart of what makes bread so special
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這過程也漸漸地讓麵包形成一個轉化食品
05:16
is that it is a transformational food,
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也正是麵包之所以特別的原因
05:18
and we're going to explore that in a minute.
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我們等一下就會談到這部份
05:20
But then, quickly through the next few stages.
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但接下來,很快的進入下幾個階段
05:22
We, after it's fermented and it's developed,
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在經過發酵、成長、
05:24
started to develop flavor and character,
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香味也引出來後
05:26
we divide it into smaller units.
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我們把它分切成小塊
05:28
And then we take those units and we shape them. We give them a little pre-shape,
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然後把這些小麵團稍微整型
05:31
usually a round or a little torpedo shape, sometimes.
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通常是做成圓形,有時也會做成魚雷的形狀
05:34
That's called "rounding."
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這步驟我們稱為"揉圓"
05:36
And there's a short rest period. It can be for a few seconds.
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然後是一小段休息時間,這可能需要幾秒鐘,
05:39
It can be for 20 or 30 minutes. We call that resting or benching.
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但也可能要2、30分鐘,我們稱這過程為"醒麵"
05:42
Then we go into final shaping,
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接下來就是最後的塑型
05:44
"panning" -- which means putting the shaped loaf on a pan.
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然後是"入模",也就是把塑型後的麵團放上烤盤
05:48
This takes a second, but it's a distinctive stage.
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過程只要幾秒鐘,但是個非常特別的步驟
05:52
It can be in a basket. It can be in a loaf pan, but we pan it.
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可以放到籃子裡、吐司模,但我們選擇烤盤
05:56
And then, stage nine.
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接著,第九步驟
05:58
The fermentation which started at stage three is continuing
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第三步驟的發酵在整段過程中一直持續進行
06:01
through all these other stages. Again, developing more flavor.
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讓麵包產出更濃郁的香味
06:04
The final fermentation takes place in stage nine.
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而最後的發酵就是在這第九階段
06:06
We call it "proofing."
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也就是"二次發酵"
06:08
Proofing means to prove that the dough is alive.
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二次發酵是為了證明這麵團是活的
06:11
And at stage nine we get the dough to the final shape,
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在這階段,我們也整理一下麵團形狀
06:14
and it goes into the oven -- stage 10.
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然後放入烤箱--這是第十個步驟
06:16
Three transformations take place in the oven.
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烤箱理會有三個轉化過程發生
06:19
The sugars in the dough caramelize in the crust.
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麵團裡的糖把表皮焦化
06:22
They give us that beautiful brown crust.
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帶來漂亮的金黃色外皮
06:24
Only the crust can caramelize. It's the only place that gets hot enough.
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只有表皮會被焦化,因為只有它會遇到夠高的溫度
06:27
Inside, the proteins --
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麵團內部,蛋白質、
06:29
this gluten -- coagulates.
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麵筋,凝結在一起
06:31
When it gets to about 160 degrees,
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當到達160度左右時
06:33
the proteins all line up and they create structure,
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蛋白質開始排列一個整齊結構
06:35
the gluten structure --
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就是麵筋結構
06:37
what ultimately we will call the crumb of the bread.
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也就是最後會看到的麵包屑
06:40
And the starches, when they reach about 180 degrees,
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然後當澱粉在達到180度時
06:42
gelatinize.
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它會呈現膠狀
06:44
And gelatinization is yet another
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這膠化的過程就是另一個
06:47
oven transformation.
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在烤箱裡發生的轉化過程
06:49
Coagulation, caramelization and gelatinization --
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凝結化、焦糖化、膠狀化
06:52
when the starch is thick and they absorb all the moisture that's around them,
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當澱粉變得濃稠,且吸取了所有週邊的水份後
06:55
they -- they kind of swell, and then they burst.
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它就膨脹起來,直到脹破為止
06:58
And they burst, and they spill their guts into the bread.
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澱粉脹破時,把它的內臟都炸到麵包裡了
07:01
So basically now we're eating yeast sweats --
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所以基本上,我們是在吃酵母流的汗、
07:03
sweat, burps and starch guts.
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打的嗝、和澱粉的內臟
07:06
Again, transformed in stage 10 in the oven
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重複一次,第十階段是在烤箱裡的轉化過程
07:09
because what went into the oven as dough
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因為進烤箱時是個麵團
07:12
comes out in stage 11 as bread.
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出烤箱時就變成麵包了,也就是第十一步驟
07:15
And stage 11, we call it cooling --
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第十一階段,我們稱之為"冷卻"
07:17
because we never really eat the bread right away.
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我們從不吃剛出爐的麵包
07:19
There's a little carry-over baking.
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因為有些部分還在運作
07:21
The proteins have to set up, strengthen and firm up.
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蛋白質還需要建構、強化
07:25
And then we have stage 12, which the textbooks call "packaging,"
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接著,才是第十二步驟,也就是教科書裡說的"包裝"
07:29
but my students call "eating."
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但我的學生稱之為"開動"!
07:31
And so, we're going to be on our own journey today from wheat to eat,
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於是今天的小麥之旅就從"小麥"到了"進食"
07:34
and in a few minutes we will try this,
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再一會兒我們就可以來試試這個
07:36
and see if we have succeeded
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看看我們是否有成功地
07:39
in fulfilling this baker's mission of pulling out flavor.
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達成烘培師的任務,把麵包香味引出來
07:42
But I want to go back now and revisit these steps,
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但我想先回顧一下幾個步驟
07:45
and talk about it from the standpoint of transformation,
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然後以轉化過程為起點、談一下那些步驟
07:47
because I really believe that
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因為我深深相信
07:49
all things can be understood --
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每件事都可以被理解
07:52
and this is not my own idea. This goes back to the Scholastics and to the Ancients --
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而且這不是我自己的想法,而是學者、先人的智慧--
07:55
that all things can be understood on four levels:
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每件事都可被理解為四種層面:
07:57
the literal, the metaphoric or poetic level,
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字面意義層面、隱喻或詩意的層面、
08:01
the political or ethical level.
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政治或道德層面、
08:04
And ultimately, the mystical or sometimes called the "anagogical" level.
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以及最深層的神祕層面,也稱作類比層面
08:08
It's hard to get to those levels unless you go through the literal.
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除非你了解字面意義,否則很難深入到其他層面
08:11
In fact, Dante says you can't understand the three deeper levels
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事實上,但丁說過:除非你先理解了字義的層面
08:14
unless you first understand the literal level,
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否則無法了解較深的這三層意義
08:17
so that's why we're talking literally about bread.
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這也是為什麼我們現在要聊麵包的字面意義
08:19
But let's kind of look at these stages again
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我們再從這些相關的要素、儘可能到更深層地
08:21
from the standpoint of connections to possibly a deeper level --
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再看一次這幾個步驟
08:25
all in my quest for answering the question,
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努力尋找出這問題的答案:
08:27
"What is it about bread that's so special?"
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"麵包到底有什麼特別?"
08:30
And fulfilling this mission of evoking the full potential of flavor.
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進而達成引出麵包裡所有潛在美味的任務
08:34
Because what happens is,
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因為事情是這樣的
08:36
bread begins as wheat or any other grain.
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麵包源於小麥或其他穀類
08:39
But what's wheat? Wheat is a grass
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但什麼是小麥?
08:41
that grows in the field.
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小麥是種長在田裡的草
08:43
And, like all grasses, at a certain point it puts out seeds.
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然後就像其他所有草一樣,長到某個程度時,它會散播種籽
08:47
And we harvest those seeds, and those are the wheat kernels.
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然後我們收割那些籽,也就是麥子仁
08:50
Now, in order to harvest it -- I mean, what's harvesting?
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然後,為了要收割--什麼是收割?
08:52
It's just a euphemism for killing, right?
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就是婉轉的說出"殺了它"嘛,對吧?
08:56
I mean, that's what's harvest -- we say we harvest the pig, you know?
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那就是收割的意義嘛 -- 我們會說"收割豬隻"嗎?
08:58
Yes, we slaughter, you know. Yes, that's life.
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其實我們屠宰呀~而那是對動物我們這麼說
09:01
We harvest the wheat,
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我們收割小麥
09:03
and in harvesting it, we kill it.
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說收割,其實就是殺了它們
09:05
Now, wheat is alive,
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現在,小麥是有生命的
09:07
and as we harvest it, it gives up its seeds.
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我們收割它,它奉獻出它的籽
09:11
Now, at least with seeds we have the potential for future life.
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至少,有種籽的話,就有機會培育新生命
09:14
We can plant those in the ground.
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我們可以把它種在土裡
09:16
And we save some of those for the next generation.
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然後也留一些到下一輪再栽種
09:18
But most of those seeds get crushed
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但多數的籽會被碾磨
09:20
and turned into flour.
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成為麵粉
09:22
And at that point, the wheat has suffered the ultimate indignity.
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在這一刻,小麥的尊嚴遭受到最嚴重的踐踏
09:25
It's not only been killed,
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不只被殺死
09:27
but it's been denied any potential for creating future life.
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而是它培育新生命的可能性都完全抹殺
09:30
So we turn it into flour.
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變成了麵粉
09:33
So as I said, I think bread is a transformational food.
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就如我說,我認為麵包是轉化食物
09:36
The first transformation -- and, by the way,
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順帶一提,對我而言
09:39
the definition of transformation for me is
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第一道轉化的定義是
09:41
a radical change from one thing into something else.
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一個物質徹底地轉變成另一個東西
09:44
O.K.? Radical, not subtle.
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可以嗎? 是徹底的,不是微微的而已
09:46
Not like hot water made cold,
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不是像熱水變成冷水
09:48
or cold water turned hot,
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或冷水變熱
09:50
but water boiled off and becoming steam.
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而是水滾了之後、昇華成水蒸氣
09:53
That's a transformation, two different things.
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是這樣的轉化喔,兩者是不一樣的
09:55
Well, in this case, the first transformation
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所以,這樣的情況下,第一道轉化
09:57
is alive to dead.
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是從生到死
10:00
I'd call that radical.
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我會說這很徹底
10:03
So, we've got now this flour.
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現在有了麵粉
10:06
And what do we do? We add some water.
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然後呢?我們加點水進去
10:08
In stage one, we weigh it.
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在第一階段,我們秤秤它
10:10
In stage two, we add water and salt to it, mix it together,
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第二階段,加點水和鹽,然後將它們混合
10:12
and we create something that we call "clay."
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然後就形成了我們說的”粘土“
10:14
It's like clay.
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它很像粘土
10:16
And we infuse that clay
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接著我們在粘土裡加入
10:18
with an ingredient that we call "leaven."
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一種叫做酵素的原料
10:21
In this case, it's yeast, but yeast is leaven. What does leaven mean?
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在這是用酵母,酵母是種酵素。什麼是酵素?
10:24
Leaven comes from the root word that means enliven --
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酵素(leaven)這個字是從enliven的字根來的
10:28
to vivify, to bring to life.
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意思是:使之活躍、有生氣
10:32
By the way, what's the Hebrew word for clay? Adam.
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對了,粘土的希伯來文怎麼說?--亞當(adam)
10:36
You see, the baker, in this moment,
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你看,這好像說明了
10:38
has become, in a sense,
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烘培師傅就如同是
10:40
sort of, the God of his dough, you know, and his dough, well,
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麵團的造物主,而麵團這個不具特別智慧的生物體
10:43
while it's not an intelligent life form, is now alive.
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現在被賦予了生命
10:46
And we know it's alive because in stage three,
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之所以知道它是有生命的,是因為在第三階段時
10:48
it grows. Growth is the proof of life.
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它會發酵脹大,而這就是生命的證明
10:51
And while it's growing, all these
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當它在膨脹的過程中
10:53
literal transformations are taking place.
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轉化的過程就產生了
10:55
Enzymes are breaking forth sugars.
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酵素開始分解糖類
10:57
Yeast is eating sugar and
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酵母開始啃食糖
10:59
turning it into carbon dioxide and alcohol.
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然後轉化成二氧化碳和酒精
11:02
Bacteria is in there, eating the same sugars,
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細菌也在裡面吃著那些糖
11:04
turning them into acids.
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然後轉化成酸類
11:06
In other words, personality and character's being developed in this dough
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換句話說,在烘培師的細心觀測下
11:09
under the watchful gaze of the baker.
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這麵團的內在和特性都被提昇了
11:12
And the baker's choices all along the way
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而烘培師在烘培過程中的所有選擇
11:14
determine the outcome of the product.
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都決定著成品的結果
11:18
A subtle change in temperature -- a subtle change in time --
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無論是些許地改變溫度、或是稍微地調整時間 --
11:21
it's all about a balancing act between time, temperature
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烘培就是在時間、溫度、材料之間取得平衡點
11:23
and ingredients. That's the art of baking.
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這就是烘培的藝術
11:25
So all these things are determined by the baker,
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這些要素是靠烘培師來決定
11:27
and the bread goes through some stages, and characters develop.
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而麵包則是通過了幾階段的考驗、內在有了提昇
11:30
And then we divide it, and this one big piece of dough
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接著,我們將它切成較小塊的麵團
11:32
is divided into smaller units, and each of those units
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然後再由烘培師幫這些小麵團
11:34
are given shape by the baker.
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塑造形狀
11:36
And as they're shaped, they're raised again,
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被塑完形後,它們會再膨脹一次
11:38
all along proving that they're alive,
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這些都證明了它們是有生命的
11:40
and developing character.
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而且內在也是在改變的
11:42
And at stage 10, we take it to the oven.
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第十階段,將它們送進烤箱
11:45
It's still dough. Nobody eats bread dough --
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它們還是麵團而已。沒有人真的生吃麵團,
11:47
a few people do, I think, but not too many.
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很少數的人會啦,但不是太多
11:49
I've met some dough eaters, but --
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我有碰過幾個愛吃生麵團的人 --
11:51
it's not the staff of life, right? Bread is the staff of life.
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不過生麵團不能當主食,對吧?但麵包就是主食啦
11:55
But dough is what we're working with,
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生麵團是還需要被我們加工的
11:57
and we take that dough to the oven,
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然後送往烤箱
11:59
and it goes into the oven. As soon as the interior temperature of that dough
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接著進入烤箱。當烤箱內的溫度
12:03
crosses the threshold of 140 degrees,
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高於140度的時候
12:05
it passes what we call the "thermal death point."
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就超過了我們所謂的”致死溫度“
12:10
Students love that TDP. They think it's the name of a video game.
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學生們很愛這個名稱,因為聽起來很像電玩遊戲
12:13
But it's the thermal death point -- all life ceases there.
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但達到這個致死溫度的時候,所有的生物都停止活動
12:16
The yeast, whose mission it has been up till now to raise the dough,
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酵母的任務要到麵團發酵膨脹後,才算完成
12:20
to enliven it, to vivify it,
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它得讓麵團活躍、有生氣
12:22
in order to complete its mission,
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才算達成任務
12:24
which is also to turn this dough into bread,
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也就是要讓麵團變成麵包
12:26
has to give up its life.
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它就必須犧牲自己的性命
12:28
So you see the symbolism at work? It's starting to come forth a little bit, you know.
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你看得出來這些象徵意義嗎?接下來會再明顯一些
12:31
It's starting to make sense to me --
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越來越有道理--
12:35
what goes in is dough,
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送進烤箱的是麵團
12:37
what comes out is bread --
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而出來的是麵包
12:39
or it goes in alive,
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或者說:活著進去
12:41
comes out dead.
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死著出來
12:43
Third transformation. First transformation, alive to dead.
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這是第三階段的轉化。第一個轉化是由活到死
12:46
Second transformation, dead brought back to life.
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第二個轉化是死而復生
12:50
Third transformation, alive to dead --
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第三個轉化是又再由活到死 --
12:52
but dough to bread.
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但從麵團變成了麵包
12:55
Or another analogy would be,
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或是可以比喻成
12:57
a caterpillar has been turned into a butterfly.
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毛毛蟲變成了蝴蝶
13:00
And it's what comes out of the oven
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也就是從烤箱出來
13:02
that is what we call the staff of life.
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被我們稱為主食的東西
13:05
This is the product
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這就是完成品
13:07
that
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這個
13:10
everyone in the world eats, that is so difficult to give up.
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是全世界的人都在吃、非常難戒掉的東西
13:14
It's so
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人們多麼地
13:16
deeply embedded in our psyches that
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根深蒂固的認為
13:19
bread is used as a symbol for life.
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麵包就是生活的象徵
13:22
It's used as a symbol for transformation.
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也是轉化的象徵
13:27
And so, as we get to stage 12 and we partake of that,
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於是,到了第十二步驟,我們參與了這過程
13:30
again completing the life cycle,
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再次完成一個生命的循環
13:33
you know, we have a chance to essentially ingest that --
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當我們有機會真的吞下麵包時
13:36
it nurtures us, and we continue to carry on
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它供給我們養分,然後我們有機會
13:39
and have opportunities to ponder
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繼續思索
13:41
things like this.
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像這類的事情
13:43
So this is what I've learned from bread.
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這就我從麵包上學到的
13:45
This is what bread has taught me in my journey.
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麵包讓我受惠良多
13:48
And what we're going to attempt to do
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接下來,關於這個麵包
13:50
with this bread here, again,
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除了我們剛提過的之外
13:52
is to use, in addition to everything we talked about,
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我們想要再試著做的是
13:55
this bread we're going to call "spent grain bread"
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把它的名字叫做”榖粕麵包“
13:58
because, as you know, bread-making is very similar to beer-making.
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因為,我們知道,做麵包跟做啤酒差不多
14:01
Beer is basically liquid bread,
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啤酒基本上就是液態的麵包
14:03
or bread is solid beer.
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麵包就是固態的啤酒
14:05
And --
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而且...
14:07
(Laughter)
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(笑聲)
14:08
they -- they're invented around the same time. I think beer came first.
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它們是在差不多時期被發明的。我想是先有啤酒
14:11
And the Egyptian who was tending the beer fell asleep
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但一個負責照料啤酒的埃及工人睡著了
14:14
in the hot, Egyptian sun, and it turned into bread.
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結果啤酒在炙熱的埃及陽光加溫下,做成了麵包
14:16
But we've got this bread,
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而對於這個麵包
14:18
and what I did here is to try to, again,
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我所做的是試著
14:20
evoke even more flavor from this grain,
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從榖類裡引出更多的香味
14:24
was we've added into it the spent grain from beer-making.
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像是加入製做啤酒後留下的穀粕
14:27
And if you make this bread, you can use any kind of spent grain from any type of beer.
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任何種類的啤酒的榖粕都可以拿來做這個麵包
14:31
I like dark spent grain. Today we're using a light spent grain
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我偏好黑啤酒的榖粕,而今天用的是淡啤酒的榖渣
14:34
that's actually from, like, some kind of a lager of some sort --
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可以用拉格啤酒
14:37
a light lager or an ale -- that is wheat and barley that's been toasted.
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或是麥酒(艾爾酒),就是用烤過的大麥和小麥來製作的
14:41
In other words, the beer-maker knows also how to evoke flavor from the grains
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換句話說,啤酒製造商都知道要用發芽、製成麥芽和烘培的技術
14:44
by using sprouting and malting and roasting.
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來把穀類裡的香味引出來
14:47
We're going to take some of that, and put it into the bread.
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我們就要把這技術放到麵包的烘培裡
14:49
So now we not only have a high-fiber bread,
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所以,我們現在有的不僅是高纖麵包
14:52
but now fiber on top of fiber.
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而是比高纖還要高纖
14:54
And so this is, again, hopefully
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也希望這不僅是一個
14:57
not only a healthy bread,
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健康的麵包
14:59
but a bread that you will enjoy.
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也是一個讓你吃到意猶未盡的麵包
15:01
So, if I, kind of, break this bread,
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我把它撥開
15:04
maybe we can share this now a little bit here.
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大家分著嚐嚐看
15:07
We'll start a little piece here,
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一人一小塊
15:09
and I'm going to take a little piece here --
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我自己也來一點
15:11
I think I'd better taste it myself before you have it at lunch.
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我想在你們吃之前,我最好自己先試試
15:14
I'll leave you
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在離開前,
15:17
with what I call the baker's blessing.
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我送給大家 “烘培師的祝福” --
15:19
May your crust be crisp,
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祝你的麵包皮香香脆脆
15:21
and your bread always rise.
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願你的麵包永遠發酵膨脹
15:24
Thank you.
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謝謝各位
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