3 creative ways to fix fashion's waste problem | Amit Kalra

譯者: Lilian Chiu 審譯者: Yanyan Hong

A few years ago, I found myself

幾年前，我發現我自己

looking for the most cost-effective way to be stylish.

在尋找最有成本效益的方式來變時髦。

So naturally, I wound up at my local thrift store,

很自然的，我最後就到了 一間當地的二手商店，

a wonderland of other people's trash

由別人的垃圾構成的仙境，

that was ripe to be plucked to become my treasure.

等著我去裡頭挖寶。

Now, I wasn't just looking for your average

我並不只是在找一般的

off-the-secondhand-rack vintage T-shirt to wear.

二手古老風格成衣Ｔ恤來穿。

For me, real style lives at the intersection of design

對我來說，真正的時髦

會出現在設計與個性的交會點。

and individuality.

So to make sure that I was getting the most out of the things I was finding,

為了確保我能夠把我 發現的東西發揮到極至，

我帶了一台縫紉機，

I bought a sewing machine

so I could tailor the 90's-style garments that I was finding,

我就可以去裁製 我找到的九十年代風格服飾，

to fit a more contemporary aesthetic.

讓它更符合當代的美學。

I've been tailoring and making my own clothes from scratch ever since,

此後，我就都是自己從頭 開始裁製和製作我的衣服，

so everything in my closet is uniquely my own.

我衣櫃中的所有東西都獨一無二。

But as I was sorting through the endless racks of clothes at these thrift stores,

但當我在這些二手商店中 從無數的架上挑選東西時，

I started to ask myself,

我開始自問：

what happens to all the clothes that I don't buy?

沒被我買走的衣服會有什麼下場？

The stuff that isn't really cool or trendy

不是很酷或流行的東西，

but kind of just sits there and rots away at these secondhand stores.

就待在這些二手商店中，漸漸凋落。

I work in the fashion industry on the wholesale side,

在時尚業中， 我在批發的這一塊工作，

and I started to see some of the products that we sell

我開始發現，我們販售的一些產品

end up on the racks of these thrift stores.

最後淪落到這些二手商店的架上。

所以，這個問題也開始 進入到我的工作生活中。

So the question started to work its way into my work life, as well.

I did some research

我做了一些研究，

and I pretty quickly found a very scary supply chain

我很快發現了一個 非常駭人的供應鏈，

that led me to some pretty troubling realities.

引導我看到了很讓人不舒服的現實。

It turned out that the clothes I was sorting though

結果發現，我在二手商店 挑選的那些衣服，

at these thrift stores

只是我們每年所丟棄的 所有服飾中的冰山一角。

represented only a small fraction of the total amount of garments

that we dispose of each year.

In the US, only 15 percent of the total textile and garment waste

在美國，每年所產生的

所有廢棄織物和衣服當中，

that's generated each year

只有 15% 最後會被捐贈 或以某種方式回收，

ends up being donated or recycled in some way,

which means that the other 85 percent of textile and garment waste

那就表示，每年剩下的 85%

廢棄織物和衣服最後會被掩埋。

end up in landfills every year.

Now, I want to put this into perspective,

我想要釐清這點，

because I don't quite think

因為我並不認為 85%

that the 85 percent does the problem justice.

對於這個問題是公平的。

This means that almost 13 million tons of clothing and textile waste

這表示，光是美國， 每年就有近 1300 萬噸的

end up in landfills every year in just the United States alone.

廢棄織物和衣服最後被掩埋掉。

This averages out to be roughly 200 T-shirts per person

這代表平均大約每個人兩百件Ｔ恤

ending up in the garbage.

最後被當垃圾丟掉。

In Canada, we throw away enough clothing

在加拿大，我們丟棄的衣服量

to fill the largest stadium in my home town of Toronto,

足以裝滿我的家鄉 多倫多最大的體育場，

one that seats 60,000 people,

那個體育場有六萬個座位，

with a mountain of clothes three times the size of that stadium.

衣服堆積起來， 會是體育場容量的三倍。

Now, even with this,

即便如此，

I still think that Canadians are the more polite North Americans,

我仍然認為加拿大人 是比較有禮貌的北美人，

so don't hold it against us.

所以不要因此貶低我們。

(Laughter)

（笑聲）

What was even more surprising was seeing that the fashion industry

更另人驚訝的是看到時尚業

竟是世界上污染排名第二的產業，

is the second-largest polluter in the world

只輸給石油天然氣業。

behind the oil and gas industry.

This is an important comparison to make.

做這個比較是很重要的。

I don't want to defend the oil and gas industry

我並不想為石油天然氣業辯護，

但如果說我聽到他們污染排名第一 而訝異，那我就是在說謊。

but I'd be lying if I said I was surprised to hear they were the number one polluter.

我只是假設，不論這假設是否公平，

I just assumed, fairly or not, that that's an industry

這個產業並不介意保持現狀。

that doesn't really mind sticking to the status quo.

在這個產業，技術不會改變，

One where the technology doesn't really change

焦點比較多放在提高獲利性上，

and the focus is more so on driving profitability

即使代價是永續的未來。

at the expense of a sustainable future.

But I was really surprised to see that the fashion industry was number two.

但時尚業會是第二名， 真的讓我很意外。

因為維持現狀

Because maintaining that status quo

is the opposite of what the fashion industry stands for.

和時尚業擁護的主張完全相反。

不幸的現實是，

The unfortunate reality is,

我們不但浪費掉了 許多我們消費的東西，

not only do we waste a lot of the things we do consume,

but we also use a lot to produce the clothes that we buy each year.

每年我們還用了很多資源 來生產我們購買的衣服。

On average, a household's purchase of clothing per year

平均而言，每年每個家庭購買的衣服

requires 1,000 bathtubs of water to produce.

需要一千個澡盆的水才能生產出來。

A thousand bathtubs of water per household, per year.

每年，每個家庭一千個澡盆的水。

That's a lot of water.

那是相當多的水。

It seems that the industry that always has been

似乎這個產業一直都是，

and probably always will be on the forefront of design,

且很可能將來也都會是， 設計的最前線，

creates products that are designed to be comfortable, designed to be trendy

這個產業創造的產品， 要設計得舒適、流行，

and designed to be expressive

且能表現自我，

but aren't really designed to be sustainable

但設計的目標並不包括永續

or recyclable for that matter.

或是具有可回收性。

But I think that can change.

但我認為那是可改變的。

I think the fashion industry's aptitude for change

我認為，時尚業喜歡改變的習性，

is the exact thing that should make it

就可以讓它成為

patient zero for sustainable business practices.

永續商業做法的「零號病人」。

And I think to get started, all we have to do

我認為，若要開始進行，我們只要

is start to design clothes to be recyclable at the end of their life.

開始設計在要丟棄時 可以回收的衣服即可。

Now, designing recyclable clothing

設計可回收的衣服，

is definitely something to leave to the professionals.

肯定是要留給專業人士去做的。

But as a 24-year-old thrift store aficionado

但身為二十四歲的二手商店愛好者，

armed with a sewing machine,

隨身帶著縫紉機，

if I were to very humbly posit one perspective,

如果我要很謙遜地假設一個觀點，

it would be to approach clothing design kind of like building with Lego.

那就是，用類似堆樂高 積木的方式來做服裝設計。

When we put together a brick of Lego,

當我們把樂高積木組裝起來，

it's very strong but very easily manipulated.

它非常堅固，但很容易再做調整。

It's modular in its nature.

它在本質上是組合式的。

Clothing design as it stands today is very rarely modular.

現今的服裝設計很少是組裝式的。

Take this motorcycle jacket as an example.

用這件摩托車夾克當例子。

It's a pretty standard jacket with its buttons, zippers and trim.

它是很標準的夾克， 有釦子、有拉鏈、有鑲邊。

But in order for us to efficiently recycle a jacket like this,

但若要能很有效地回收這種夾克，

we need to be able to easily remove these items

這些物件需要能很容易移除，

and quickly get down to just the fabric.

只留下織物的部分。

Once we have just the fabric,

一旦只剩下織物，

we're able to break it down by shredding it

我們就能把它切碎處理，

回到線狀的層級，

and getting back to thread level,

make new thread that then gets made into new fabric

做成新的線，再做成新的織物，

最終做成新的服裝，

and ultimately new clothing,

whether it be a new jacket or new T-shirts, for example.

不論是新夾克或新Ｔ恤。

But the complexity lies with all of these extra items,

但困難的就是這些額外的物件，

the buttons, the zippers and the trim.

釦子、拉鏈、鑲邊。

Because in reality, these items are actually quite difficult to remove.

在現實中，這些物件都很難移除。

在許多情況下，拆解像這樣的夾克

So in many cases it requires more time or more money

會需要更多的時間金錢。

to disassemble a jacket like this.

In some cases, it's just more cost-effective to throw it away

在某些情況下，直接丟棄會比回收

更有成本效益。

rather than recycle it.

But I think this can change if we design clothes in a modular way

但我認為這點能夠改變， 我們可以用組裝方式來設計衣服，

to be easily disassembled at the end of their lives.

讓衣服在不穿之後很容易能拆解。

We could redesign this jacket to have a hidden wireframe,

我們可以重新設計這件夾克， 用隱藏式的線框，

kind of like the skeleton of a fish, that holds all important items together.

有點像是魚骨架，把所有 重要的物件都連結在一起。

This invisible fish-bone structure can have all of these extra items,

這種隱形的魚骨結構 就能讓所有額外物件，

the zippers and the buttons and the trim,

釦子、拉鏈、鑲邊，

都縫在上面，然後再和織物結合。

sewn into it and then attached to the fabric.

So at the end of the jacket's life,

當不要這件夾克時，

你只需要移除它的魚骨以及

all you have to do is remove its fish bone

附在其上的織物即可，

and the fabric comes with it

這比以前要更快速、更簡易。

a lot quicker and a lot easier than before.

Now, recycling clothing is definitely one piece of the puzzle.

回收服裝絕對是拼圖的其中一片。

But if we want to take

但如果我們想要

fixing the environmental impact that the fashion industry has

更嚴肅看待修復時尚業所造成的

環境衝擊，

more seriously,

那麼我們就得採取下一步， 開始設計在丟棄時

then we need to take this to the next step and start to design clothes

也能夠被製成堆肥的衣服。

to also be compostable at the end of their lives.

我們衣櫃中大部分類型的衣服，

For most of the types of clothes we have in our closet

平圴壽命是大約三年。

the average lifespan is about three years.

Now, I'm sure there's many of us that have gems in our drawers

我相信許多人在抽屜中都有珍寶

放了遠超過三年，那很好。

that are much older than that, which is great.

因為若能把衣服的壽命延長， 即使只延長九個月，

Because being able to extend the life of a garment by even only nine months

就能把那件衣服 在廢棄物與水方面造成的

reduces the waste and water impact that that garment has

衝擊減少 20~30%，

by 20 to 30 percent.

But fashion is fashion.

但時尚就是時尚。

Which means that styles are always going to change

也就是說，風格一直在改變，

and you're probably going to be wearing something different than you were today

你今天穿的和你在八季之後穿的，

可能會不一樣。

eight seasons from now,

不論你有多想要做好環保。

no matter how environmentally friendly you want to be.

但我們很幸運，有些東西 是永遠不會退流行的。

But lucky for us, there are some items that never go out of style.

我在說的是基本用品—— 你的襪子、內褲、甚至睡衣。

I'm talking about your basics -- your socks, underwear, even your pajamas.

We're all guilty of wearing these items right down to the bone,

我們都會把這些東西 穿到不能穿為止，

and in many cases throwing them in the garbage

通常，就把它們當垃圾丟棄，

因為其實很難

because it's really difficult

把你那破洞的老舊爛襪子捐贈給

to donate your old ratty socks that have holes in them

當地的二手商店。

to your local thrift store.

But what if we were able to compost these items

但若能把這些東西製成堆肥，

rather than throw them in the trash bin?

而不是丟到垃圾筒呢？

The environmental savings could be huge,

環境節約會很大，

and all we would have to do is start to shift more of our resources

你所需要做的事只有 把我們更多的資源做轉移，

to start to produce more of these items using more natural fibers,

用更多的天然纖維 開始生產更多這類物品，

like 100 percent organic cotton.

比如 100% 有機棉。

Now, recycling and composting are two critical priorities.

回收和製成堆肥， 是兩件重要的優先工作。

But one other thing that we have to rethink

但我們還要重新思考一件事，

is the way that we dye our clothes.

就是把衣服染色的方式。

Currently, 10 to 20 percent of the harsh chemical dye that we use

目前，我們所使用的刺激性 化學染料中有 10~20%

end up in water bodies that neighbor production hubs in developing nations.

最後是跑到發展中國家的 製造中心附近的水中。

The tricky thing is that these harsh chemicals

棘手之處在於，這些刺激性化學物

are really effective at keeping a garment a specific color

能夠非常有效地讓 衣服保有特定的顏色，

for a long period of time.

且保持極長的時間。

It's these harsh chemicals that keep that bright red dress

是這些刺激性化學物讓亮紅色的洋裝

bright red for so many years.

多年來都能維持亮紅色。

But what if we were able to use something different?

但若我們能用不同的東西呢？

What if we were able to use something

若我們能使用大家在

that we all have in our kitchen cabinets at home

家中廚房櫃子裡都有的東西

來染色衣服呢？

to dye our clothes?

What if we were able to use spices and herbs to dye our clothes?

如果我們能使用香料 和藥草來染色衣服呢？

There's countless food options that would allow for us to stain material,

有數不清的食物可以選用 來將織物材料給染色，

but these stains change color over time.

但這些染色會隨時間而變色。

This would be pretty different than the clothes that were dyed harshly

這和我們習慣用的 刺激性化學物染色方式

with chemicals that we're used to.

有很不同的結果。

But dyeing clothes naturally this way would allow for us

但用天然方式來染色，

to make sure they're more unique and environmentally friendlier.

可確保它們更獨一無二且環保。

Let's think about it.

咱們來想想看。

現今的時尚講究個性。

Fashion today is all about individuality.

重點是要創造出你自己的個人外觀，

It's about managing your own personal appearance

to be just unique enough to be cool.

要夠獨特才酷。

These days, everybody has the ability to showcase their brand

現今，每個人都有能力 能夠展現他們的品牌、

their personal style,

他們的個人風格，

across the world, through social media.

透過社交媒體，可向全世界展示。

The pocket-sized billboards

口袋大小的廣告牌，

that we flick through on our Instagram feeds

我們在看 Instagram 時滑過的那些，

are chock-full of models and taste-makers

都滿是模特兒和引領時尚者

that are showcasing their individuality

在透過他們的個人微品牌

through their personal microbrands.

來展示他們的個性。

But what could be more personalized, more unique,

但有什麼能比隨時間改變顏色的

than clothes that change color over time?

衣服更個人化、更獨一無二？

Clothes that with each wash and with each wear

每洗一次、每穿一次這些衣服，

become more and more one of a kind.

它們就會變得更獨特。

People have been buying and wearing ripped jeans for years.

多年來，人們都在購買 磨損和破洞的牛仔褲。

So this would just be another example of clothes that exist in our wardrobe

所以，這只是另外一種 會在衣櫥中隨著我們的

that evolve with us over our lives.

人生和我們一起演化的衣服。

This shirt, for example, is one that,

比如，這件上衣就是。

令我媽媽感到驚愕的是， 我在今天來這裡之前，

much to the dismay of my mother and the state of her kitchen,

I dyed at home, using turmeric, before coming here today.

用她廚房裏的薑黃 把這件上衣染色。

This shirt is something

我這件上衣也成了

that none of my friends are going to have on their Instagram feed.

在我朋友的 Instagram 貼文上都不會出現的東西。

So it's unique,

它是獨一無二的，

更重要的是，它是天然染色的。

but more importantly, it's naturally dyed.

Now, I'm not suggesting

我並不是在建議

that everybody dye their clothes in their kitchen sink at home.

大家都在自家廚房將衣服染色。

但，若能應用這個方法，

But if we were able to apply this

或類似的流程，做到商業的規模，

or a similar process on a commercial scale,

我們依賴刺激性化學染劑 來將衣服染色的需求

then our need to rely on these harsh chemical dyes for our clothes

就很容易降低。

could be easily reduced.

The 2.4-trillion-dollar fashion industry is fiercely competitive.

在價值 2.4 兆美元的時尚業， 競爭非常劇烈。

So the business that can provide a product at scale

所以，若企業能提供大規模的產品，

同時向客人承諾

while also promising its customers

that each and every garment will become more unique over time

每一件服飾都會隨時間變得更獨特，

這企業就會有很強的競爭優勢。

will have a serious competitive advantage.

Brands have been playing with customization for years.

多年來，各品牌都在玩客製化。

The rise of e-commerce services,

電子商務服務的興起，

like Indochino, a bespoke suiting platform,

像訂製西服的平台 Indochino，

以及洋裝訂製平台 Tinker Tailor，

and Tinker Tailor, a bespoke dress-making platform,

have made customization possible from your couch.

讓你坐在沙發上就能享受訂製服務。

Nike and Adidas have been mastering their online shoe customization platforms

耐吉和愛迪達都投入發展 其線上鞋子客製化平台，

已有數年時間。

for years.

Providing individuality at scale

大規模提供個性化服務，

is a challenge that most consumer-facing businesses encounter.

是大部分要面對消費者的 企業會遇到的挑戰。

So being able to tackle this

所以若能處理這個議題，

while also providing an environmentally friendly product

同時還能提供環保產品，

could lead to a pretty seismic industry shift.

就有可能造成很巨大的產業轉變。

And at that point,

在那個時點，

就不只是在做對環境最好的事了，

it's not just about doing what's best for our environment

but also what's best for the bottom line.

同時也是做對結果最好的事。

There's no fix-all, and there's no one-step solution.

沒有萬靈丹，沒有一步登天。

But we can get started

但我們能開始行動，

by designing clothes with their death in mind.

設計衣服時要思考它們的廢棄問題。

The fashion industry is the perfect industry

若要在一個產業中實驗和擁抱改變，

to experiment with and embrace change

時尚業是完美的選擇，

that can one day get us to the sustainable future

有一天，這改變能帶給我們 迫切需要的永續未來。

we so desperately need.

Thank you.

謝謝。

(Applause)

（掌聲）