Cheyenne Cochrane: A celebration of natural hair | TED

譯者: Lilian Chiu 審譯者: 品妤 劉

I am from the South Side of Chicago,

我來自芝加哥南區，

and in seventh grade, I had a best friend named Jenny

七年級時，我最好的朋友叫珍妮，

who lived on the Southwest Side of Chicago.

她住在芝加哥的西南區。

Jenny was white,

珍妮是白人，

and if you know anything about the segregated demographics of Chicago,

若你對芝加哥的種族隔離 分佈特性略知一二的話，

you know that there are not too many black people

就會知道沒多少黑人

who live on the Southwest Side of Chicago.

住在芝加哥的西南部。

But Jenny was my girl

但是珍妮是我朋友，

and so we would hang out every so often after school and on the weekends.

所以我們經常會在放學後 以及週末混在一起。

And so one day we were hanging out in her living room,

有天，我們在她家客廳打發時間，

talking about 13-year-old things,

聊些 13 歲孩子聊的事情，

and Jenny's little sister Rosie was in the room with us,

珍妮的妹妹蘿西也 和我們一起在那房間裡，

and she was sitting behind me just kind of playing in my hair,

她坐在我身後，玩弄我的頭髮，

and I wasn't thinking too much about what she was doing.

對她的這個動作，我並沒有想太多。

But at a pause in the conversation,

但在談話中短暫的空檔時，

Rosie tapped me on the shoulder.

蘿西拍了一下我的肩膀。

She said, "Can I ask you a question?"

她說：「我能問你一個問題嗎？」

I said, "Yeah, Rosie. Sure."

我說：「蘿西，當然可以啊。」

"Are you black?"

「你是黑人嗎？」

(Laughter)

（笑聲）

The room froze.

房間內的空氣瞬間凍結。

Silence.

一片寂靜。

Jenny and Rosie's mom was not too far away.

珍妮和蘿西的媽媽就在附近。

She was in the kitchen and she overheard the conversation,

她在廚房裡，聽到了我們的對話，

and she was mortified.

她覺得很窘。

She said, "Rosie! You can't ask people questions like that."

她說：「蘿西，你不能 問別人這種問題。」

And Jenny was my friend, and I know she was really embarrassed.

珍妮是我的朋友， 我知道她十分尷尬。

I felt kind of bad for her, but actually I was not offended.

我為她感到難受， 但其實我並不覺得被冒犯到。

I figured it wasn't Rosie's fault that in her 10 short years on this earth,

我知道這不是蘿西的錯， 她來到地球才短短十年，

living on the Southwest Side of Chicago,

住在芝加哥的西南區，

she wasn't 100 percent sure what a black person looked like.

她無法完全肯定黑人 看起來是什麼樣子的。

That's fair.

那很正常。

But what was more surprising to me was,

但讓我更驚訝的是，

in all of this time I had spent with Jenny and Rosie's family --

在我和珍妮及蘿西一家人 共渡的所有時間中——

hanging out with them,

與他們一起打發時間、一起玩耍、

playing with them,

even physically interacting with them --

甚至和他們有身體上的互動，

it was not until Rosie put her hands in my hair

卻直到蘿西把手放在我的頭髮裡，

that she thought to ask me if I was black.

她才想到要問我是不是黑人。

That was the first time I would realize

這是我第一次了解到

how big of a role the texture of my hair played in confirming my ethnicity,

頭髮質感在判斷我的種族淵源上 扮演了多重要的角色，

but also that it would play a key role in how I'm viewed by others in society.

也在社會上其他人怎麼 看待我上扮演了關鍵角色。

Garrett A. Morgan and Madame CJ Walker were pioneers

嘉瑞特摩根和 CJ 沃克夫人

是二十世紀黑人護髮 和美容產業的先鋒。

of the black hair-care and beauty industry in the early 1900s.

They're best known as the inventors of chemically-based hair creams

他們最為人所知的事蹟， 是發明了化學髮乳、

and heat straightening tools

及加熱燙直的工具，

designed to permanently, or semipermanently,

這些工具是設計來 永久性地、或半永久性地

alter the texture of black hair.

改變黑人頭髮的質地。

Oftentimes when we think about the history of blacks in America,

通常在想到美國的黑人歷史時，

we think about the heinous acts

我們就會想到那些 十惡不赦的行為、

and numerous injustices that we experienced as people of color

及我們身為有色人種所 受到的許多不公平待遇，

because of the color of our skin,

原因只是我們的膚色，

when in fact, in post-Civil War America,

但事實上，在內戰後的美國，

it was the hair of an African-American male or female

非裔美國人的頭髮，不論男女，

that was known as the most "telling feature" of Negro status,

是辨識黑人身份的 最「顯著特徵」，

more so than the color of the skin.

比膚色更顯著。

And so before they were staples

所以，在這些工具與產品

of the multibillion-dollar hair-care industry,

成為市場規模達數十億元的 護髮產業的主要商品之前，

our dependency on tools and products,

我們對它們的依賴性，

對直髮膏及直髮梳之類 產品的依賴性，

like the hair relaxer and the pressing comb,

were more about our survival and advancement as a race

比較是與我們這個種族 身在奴隸制度之後的美國的

in postslavery America.

生存與進展有關。

Over the years, we grew accustomed to this idea

這些年來，我們 漸漸習慣了這個想法：

that straighter and longer hair meant better and more beautiful.

比較長、比較直的頭髮， 就是比較好、比較美。

We became culturally obsessed

我們對於這個想法，

with this idea of having what we like to call ...

產生了文化上的著迷，並稱之為

"good hair."

「好頭髮」。

This essentially means:

基本上，這意味著：

the looser the curl pattern, the better the hair.

捲髮的形態若比較鬆，就比較好。

And we let these institutionalized ideas form a false sense of hierarchy

而我們讓這些被變成慣例的想法， 形成了一種謬誤的階級觀念，

that would determine what was considered a good grade of hair

這個階級觀念能決定頭髮的

and what was not.

好壞等級。

What's worse is that we let these false ideologies

更糟的是，我們讓 這些謬誤的意識形態

invade our perception of ourselves,

入侵了我們對自己的感受，

and they still continue to infect our cultural identity

它們現今還在持續感染我們

as African-American women today.

身為非裔美國女性的文化身份。

So what did we do?

所以我們怎麼做？

We went to the hair salon every six to eight weeks,

我們每六到八週去髮廊一次，

without fail,

從來沒例外，

to subject our scalps to harsh straightening chemicals

讓我們的頭皮受到 直髮化學物的嚴厲摧殘，

beginning at a very young age --

這從非常年輕時就開始了——

sometimes eight, 10 --

有時甚至是八歲、十歲時——

that would result in hair loss,

結果會造成落髮、

bald spots,

禿斑、

sometimes even burns on the scalp.

有時甚至會有頭皮燙傷。

We fry our hair at temperatures of 450 degrees Fahrenheit or higher

我們用華氏 450 度 或更高的溫度來炙燒頭髮，

almost daily,

且幾乎是天天，

to maintain the straight look.

來維持直髮的外貌。

Or we simply cover our hair up with wigs and weaves,

或是我們就很簡單地把頭髮 用假髮及織物來蓋住，

only to let our roots breathe in private

只讓我們的髮根「私下」呼吸，

where no one knows what's really going on under there.

沒有人知道在假髮 及織物底下是什麼情況。

We adopted these practices in our own communities,

我們連在我們自己的社區內， 也採用這些慣例，

and so it's no wonder why today the typical ideal vision

也就難怪現今對於職業黑人女性的

of a professional black woman,

典型理想憧憬，

especially in corporate America,

特別是在美國的大企業中，

tends to look like this,

傾向是像這樣的，

rather than like this.

而不是像這樣的。

And she certainly doesn't look like this.

且肯定也不會是像這樣。

In September of this year,

今年九月，

a federal court ruled it lawful

聯邦法庭判定一家公司

for a company to discriminate against hiring an employee

根據應徵者是否 有細髮辮來決定是否

based on if she or he wears dreadlocks.

僱用這個人的歧視行為是合法的。

In the case,

在這個案件中，

the hiring manager in Mobile, Alabama

在阿拉巴馬州莫比爾的招聘經理

is on record as saying,

公開這麼說：

"I'm not saying yours are messy,

「我並不是說你們的頭髮邋遢，

but ...

但是……

you know what I'm talking about."

你知道我的意思的。」

Well, what was she talking about?

嗯，她的意思是什麼？

Did she think that they were ugly?

她認為他們的頭髮很醜嗎？

Or maybe they were just a little too Afrocentric

或許是對她的口味而言， 他們看來有點太

以非洲為中心且偏向支持黑人。

and pro-black-looking for her taste.

Or maybe it's not about Afrocentricity,

也許重點不在以非洲為中心，

and it's more just about it being a little too "urban"

比較是因為對於專業的環境來說，

for the professional setting.

那造型有點太「城市」。

Perhaps she had a genuine concern in that they looked "scary"

也許她有基因上的考量， 覺得他們看起來太「可怕」，

and that they would intimidate the clients and their customer base.

他們可能會嚇到 客戶以及他們的客源。

All of these words are ones that are too often associated

上述所有這些形容詞，都太常跟

with the stigma attached to natural hairstyles.

天然髮型的污名拉上關係。

And this ...

而這現象……

this has got to change.

這現象得要改變。

In 2013,

在 2013 年，

a white paper published by the Deloitte Leadership Center for Inclusion,

德勤大學包容領導力中心 出版的一篇白皮書，

studied 3,000 individuals in executive leadership roles

研究了 3,000 個擔任 主管領導角色的人，

on the concept of covering in the workplace

研究他們在工作場所

based on appearance, advocacy, affiliation and association.

依據外表、擁護、隸屬 和聯結四種概念的掩飾。

When thinking about appearance-based covering,

談到掩飾外表，

the study showed

這份研究顯示，

that 67 percent of women of color cover in the workplace

67% 的有色女性會在工作場所

掩飾她們的外表。

based on their appearance.

Of the total respondents who admitted to appearance-based covering,

所有承認會掩飾外表的受試者中，

82 percent said that it was somewhat to extremely important

有 82% 說，這樣做

對於他們的職業進展 從有點重要到極為重要不等。

for them to do so for their professional advancement.

Now, this is Ursula Burns.

這位是耳舒拉伯恩斯，

She is the first African-American female CEO of a Fortune 500 company --

她是一間全球五百大企業中的 第一個非裔美國人總裁——

of Xerox.

這間公司是全錄。

She's known by her signature look,

她以她的招牌外貌聞名，

the one that you see here.

也就是這張照片上的樣子。

A short, nicely trimmed, well-manicured Afro.

修剪整齊的短圓蓬式髮型。

Ms. Burns is what we like to call a "natural girl."

伯恩斯女士是我們 所謂的「天然女孩」。

And she is paving the way and showing what's possible

她在舖路，讓大家看見可能性，

for African-American women seeking to climb the corporate ladder,

非裔美國女性也 有可能爬上企業階梯，

but still wishing to wear natural hairstyles.

同時還能夠保有自然的髮型。

But today the majority of African-American women

但，現今，大多數仍然被我們視為

who we still look to as leaders, icons and role models,

領導人、偶像、典範的 非裔美國女性，

still opt for a straight-hair look.

都仍然選擇直髮的外觀。

Now,

那麼，

maybe it's because they want to --

也許是因為她們想要——

this is authentically how they feel best --

這確實是她們感覺最好的方式——

but maybe --

但也許，

and I bet --

且我敢說，

a part of them felt like they had to

她們當中有些人覺得必須要這樣做

in order to reach the level of success that they have attained today.

才能夠做到她們現今這樣的成功。

There is a natural hair movement that is sweeping the country

有一項自然頭髮運動正橫掃全國，

and also in some places in Europe.

歐洲的一些地方也有。

Millions of women are exploring what it means to transition to natural hair,

數百萬的女性正在探索 轉變為自然頭髮的意涵是什麼，

and they're cutting off years and years of dry, damaged ends

她們剪掉了經年累月 乾燥受傷的髮末，

in order to restore their natural curl pattern.

以回復到她們的自然捲髮形式。

I know because I have been an advocate and an ambassador for this movement

我知道這些是因為約在過去三年間

我曾任這項運動的提倡者和大使。

for roughly the last three years.

After 27 years of excessive heat and harsh chemicals,

我的頭髮經過了 27 年的 過度燙髮及化學物的嚴厲摧殘，

my hair was beginning to show extreme signs of wear and tear.

開始呈現出損耗的極端徵兆了。

It was breaking off,

頭髮開始斷裂，

it was thinning,

開始變細，

looking just extremely dry and brittle.

看起來極乾燥且易受損。

All those years of chasing that conventional image of beauty

這些年來，追求著我們 先前看到的那個

that we saw earlier

大家認定的美麗形象，

was finally beginning to take its toll.

終於開始產生惡果了。

I wanted to do something about it,

對此，我想要採取行動，

and so I started what I called the "No Heat Challenge,"

於是我開始了一個計畫， 被我稱為「無熱挑戰」，

where I would refrain from using heat styling tools on my hair

我要忍住不對我的頭髮 使用熱造型工具，

for six months.

為期六個月。

And like a good millennial,

我做了千禧世代的人會做的事，

I documented it on social media.

我用社交媒體記錄了這個計畫。

(Laughter)

（笑聲）

I documented as I reluctantly cut off

當我很不情願地 讓理髮師把我摯愛的頭髮

three to four inches of my beloved hair.

剪掉三到四英吋時， 我記錄了過程。

I documented as I struggled to master these natural hairstyles,

當我很掙扎地想要掌控好 這些自然髮型時，我記錄了過程，

and also as I struggled to embrace them

還有，當我掙扎地想要 擁抱這些髮型、說服自己

and think that they actually looked good.

它們其實真的很好看時， 我也記錄了過程。

And I documented as my hair texture slowly began to change.

我也記錄了我的髮質 開始慢慢改變的過程。

By sharing this journey openly,

藉由公開分享這趟旅程，

I learned that I was not the only woman going through this

我發現我並非唯一一個 在經歷這些的女性，

and that in fact there were thousands and thousands of other women

還有數以千計的其他女性

who were longing to do the same.

也很渴望做這件事。

So they would reach out to me and they would say,

所以她們來聯絡我，她們會說：

"Cheyenne, how did you do that natural hairstyle

「夏妍，我之前看到你的那個

that I saw you with the other day?

自然髮型，是怎麼弄的？

What new products have you started using

你開始用什麼新產品？

that might be a little better for my hair texture

我髮質開始變糟了，

as it begins to change?"

那新產品是否會有些幫助？」

Or, "What are some of the natural hair routines

或「如果想要讓我的 頭髮慢慢恢復健康，

that I should begin to adopt to slowly restore the health of my hair?"

有哪些自然頭髮的例行程序 是我應該要開始採用的？」

But I also found that there were a large number of women

但我也發現，有很多的女性

who were extremely hesitant to take that first step

非常猶豫要不要踏出第一步，

because they were paralyzed by fear.

因為恐懼讓她們無法行動。

Fear of the unknown --

對未知的恐懼——

what would they now look like?

她們現在看來會像什麼？

How would they feel about themselves with these natural hairstyles?

換了自然髮型之後， 她們對自己會有什麼感覺？

And most importantly to them,

對她們而言，最重要的是，

how would others view them?

其他人會怎麼看她們？

Over the last three years

在過去三年間，

of having numerous conversations with friends of mine

我與我的朋友們，以及世界各地

and also complete strangers from around the world,

完全不認識的人，做過多次對談，

I learned some really important things

我學到了一些很重要的事，

about how African-American women identify with their hair.

關於非裔美國女性如何 認同她們的頭髮的事。

And so when I think back

所以，當我回想起

to that hiring manager in Mobile, Alabama,

那位阿拉巴馬州莫比爾的招聘經理，

I'd say, "Actually, no.

我會說：「事實上，不，

We don't know what you're talking about."

我們不知道你的意思。」

But here are some things that we do know.

但有些事是我們知道的。

We know that when black women embrace their love for their natural hair,

我們知道，當黑人女性擁抱 她們對自己的自然頭髮的愛，

it helps to undo generations of teaching

就能協助消除延續了 數個世代的這項教誨：

that black in its natural state is not beautiful,

自然狀態下的黑人並不美麗，

or something to be hidden or covered up.

或是那是應該要被隱藏或掩飾的。

We know that black women express their individuality

我們知道，黑人女性會 藉由經常試驗不同的髮型，

and experience feelings of empowerment

來表現出她們的個性，

by experimenting with different hairstyles regularly.

並體驗到賦權的感受。

And we also know

我們也知道，

that when we're invited to wear our natural hair in the workplace,

當我們被邀請在工作場所中 留著自然的頭髮，

it reinforces that we are uniquely valued

就能強化我們對自己 獨特價值的感受，

and thus helps us to flourish and advance professionally.

因而協助我們 在職業上成功和進步。

I leave you with this.

最後，留給各位思考。

In a time of racial and social tension,

在種族及社會很緊張的時代，

embracing this movement

擁抱這項運動，

and others like this

及其他相似的運動，

help us to rise above the confines of the status quo.

能協助我們擺脫現狀的限制。

So when you see a woman with braids or locks draping down her back,

當你看見一名女性，有髮辮 或幾綹頭髮垂在背後時，

or you notice your colleague

或是你注意到你的同事

who has stopped straightening her hair to work,

不再將頭髮弄直之後才去工作，

do not simply approach her and admire

不要只是簡單地走向她、誇獎她、

and ask her if you can touch it --

問她你是否能碰看看她的頭髮——

(Laughter)

（笑聲）

Really appreciate her.

要真正去欣賞她。

Applaud her.

為她鼓掌。

Heck, even high-five her if that's what you feel so inclined to do.

管它的，甚至和她擊掌吧， 如果你想要這麼做的話。

Because this --

因為這——

this is more than about a hairstyle.

這並不只與髮型有關。

It's about self-love and self-worth.

它是關於自愛和自我價值。

It's about being brave enough

它是關於要有足夠的勇氣，

not to fold under the pressure of others' expectations.

不要在他人期望的壓力之下彎腰。

And about knowing that making the decision to stray from the norm

它是關於了解到， 做出偏離標準的決定，

does not define who we are,

並不會定義你是什麼人，

but it simply reveals who we are.

只是揭示出你是什麼人。

And finally,

最後，

being brave is easier

當我們能仰賴他人的同理心，

when we can count on the compassion of others.

就會比較容易鼓起勇氣。

So after today,

所以，今天之後，

I certainly hope that we can count on you.

我很希望我們能仰賴你們。

Thank you.

謝謝。

(Applause)

（掌聲）