The next big thing is coming from the Bronx, again | Jon Gray

78,068 views ・ 2019-07-30

TED


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翻译人员: wanting zhong 校对人员: Xiaowei Dong
00:12
My name is Jon Gray.
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我叫乔恩·格雷。
00:14
They call me "The Dishwasher."
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他们都叫我“洗碗工”。
00:17
I cofounded Ghetto Gastro,
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我是 "贫民区美食" Ghetto Gastro 的联合创始人,
00:20
a Bronx-based collective
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它是一个位于布朗克斯区的集体,
00:22
that works at the intersection of food, design and art.
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专注于美食、设计和艺术的交集。
00:27
We create experiences that challenge people's perceptions of the Bronx,
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我们创造不同的体验,
改变人们对布朗克斯—— 也就是我的家的看法。
00:33
the place that I call home.
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00:37
It's a funny thing.
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说来有趣,
00:39
I just touched down in Vancouver from Paris a few days ago.
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我几天前刚从巴黎飞回温哥华。
00:43
We took over the Place Vendôme with the Bronx Brasserie.
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我们用 Bronx Brasserie 占领了旺多姆广场。
00:48
Oui oui, chérie.
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(法语)没错没错,亲爱的。
00:50
(Laughter)
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(笑声)
00:53
It's wild, because in Paris, they have this saying,
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这是件疯狂的事, 因为在巴黎有个说法
00:56
"le Bronx,"
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“le Bronx"(布朗克斯),
00:58
which means something is in disarray or a problem.
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意思是某件事有问题 或者处于无序的状态中。
01:03
That's the Place Vendôme.
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这是旺多姆广场。
01:05
We shut it down one time.
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我们曾一度让它关门。
01:06
(Laughter)
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(笑声)
01:08
This lingo came into play when the Bronx was burning,
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这种用语诞生于布朗克斯区纵火案猖獗 的 70 年代(此处添加了译者注),
01:12
and movies like "The Warriors" and "Fort Apache"
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人们也都还记得《战士帮》《阿帕奇要塞》 【注:均为 80 年代初布朗克斯犯罪电影】
01:16
still make an impression.
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这类电影。
01:18
Some may disagree,
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有的人或许不予赞同,
01:20
but I believe the Bronx was designed to fail.
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但我认为,布朗克斯的城市规划 从根本上杜绝了它成长的可能。
01:24
The power broker was a joker.
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权力掮客是一介小丑。 【注:《权利掮客》是罗伯特·摩西的传记名】
01:28
Robert Moses, instead of parting the Red Sea,
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罗伯特·摩西并没有劈开红海, 【注:罗伯特·摩西是20世纪纽约城市规划师】
01:31
he parted the Bronx with a six-lane highway
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而是用六车道高速公路 隔开了布朗克斯,
01:34
and redlined my community.
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将我的社区列入"重点观察对象"。
01:37
My great-grandparents had a home on Featherbed Lane,
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我的曾祖父母住在 菲瑟贝德(意为“羽毛床道”)上,
01:41
and contrary to the name,
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可与这个名字相反,
01:42
they couldn't get a good night's rest
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他们没法睡一晚好觉,
01:45
due to the constant blasting and drilling that was necessary
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因为在一个街区外, 为了修建跨布朗克斯高速,
01:48
to build the cross-Bronx expressway
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爆破与打钻的声音
01:51
a block away.
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不绝于耳。
01:53
I consider these policy decisions
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我认为,这些政策决定
01:56
design crimes.
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是设计犯罪。
01:58
(Applause)
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(掌声)
02:02
Being the resilient people that we are uptown,
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作为上城区出身的 坚韧的人们,
02:05
out of the systematic oppression
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为了反抗系统性的压迫,
02:08
hip-hop culture rose from the rubble and the ashes like a phoenix.
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嘻哈文化如同凤凰, 从瓦砾与灰烬中浴火重生。
02:14
Hip-hop is now a trillion-dollar industry,
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嘻哈现在已是价值上万亿的产业,
02:17
but this economic activity doesn't make it back to the Bronx
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然而其经济活动 却未能反哺布朗克斯,
02:20
or communities like it.
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或者其他与布朗克斯相似的社区。
02:23
Let's take it back to 1986.
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让我们重回 1986 年。
02:26
I was born in the heart of the AIDS crisis,
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我出生的时候正值 艾滋病危机高峰,
02:29
the crack epidemic
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同时还有快客可卡因流行,
02:31
and the War on Drugs.
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以及禁毒战争。
02:33
The only thing that trickled down from Reaganomics was ghettonomics:
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里根经济学的涓滴效应 只带来了贫民窟经济:
02:38
pain, prison and poverty.
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痛苦、牢狱、贫穷。
02:44
I was raised by brilliant, beautiful and accomplished black women.
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养育我的是聪慧、美丽、 事业有成的黑人女性。
02:50
Even so, my pops wasn't in the picture,
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即便如此,我的老爹 并未担起家庭的重责,
02:54
and I couldn't resist the allure of the streets.
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而我也不能抗拒 街头的诱惑。
02:57
Like Biggie said,
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就像大个子(声名狼藉先生)所说的,
02:59
you're either slinging crack rock or you got a wicked jump shot.
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“你不是把快客卖, 就是跳投得贼帅。”
03:03
Don't get it twisted, my jumper was wet.
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别搞错了,我打球很牛逼。
03:06
(Laughter)
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(笑声)
03:08
My shit was wet.
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屌炸天。
03:09
(Applause)
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(掌声)
03:13
But when I turned 15, I started selling weed,
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但当我 15 岁时, 我开始卖大麻,
03:16
I didn't finish high school,
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就没能念完高中,
03:18
the New York Board of Education banned me from all of those,
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因为纽约教育局不让我毕业,
03:21
but I did graduate to selling cocaine when I turned 18.
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不过我 18 岁时开始卖可卡因。
03:25
I did well.
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我还挺成功的。
03:26
That was until I got jammed up, caught a case, when I was 20.
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直到二十岁时, 被条子抓进了局子。
03:31
I was facing 10 years.
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面临十年牢狱之灾。
03:34
I posted bail, signed up at the Fashion Institute,
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我得到保释, 报名进了时装设计学院,
03:38
I applied the skills that I learned in the streets
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我将在街头学到的技能
03:40
to start my own fashion brand.
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用于开创自己的时装品牌上。
03:42
My lawyer peeked my ambition,
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我的律师发现了我的志向,
03:45
so he suggested that the judge grant me a suspended sentence.
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他向法官建议给我缓刑。
03:49
For once in my life, a suspension was a good thing.
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人生中第一次, 暂令停缓成了件好事。
03:51
(Laughter)
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(笑声)
03:55
Over the course of two years and many court dates,
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经过了两年时间,多次出庭,
03:59
my case got dismissed.
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告我的案子被驳回了。
04:02
Both of my brothers have done jail time,
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我的两位兄弟都蹲过监狱,
04:05
so escaping the clutches of the prison industrial system
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所以躲过监狱产业系统的魔爪这件事
04:08
didn't seem realistic to me.
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对我来说有些不真实。
04:10
Right now, one of my brothers is facing 20 years.
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现在,我的一个兄弟 还面临着二十年刑期。
04:15
My mother put in great effort in taking me out to eat,
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我的母亲付出了很多努力 带我们出去吃饭,
04:18
making sure we visited museums
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去参观博物馆,
04:20
and traveled abroad,
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出国旅游,
04:22
basically exposing me to as much culture as she could.
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总之就是尽她所能 让我充分接受文化熏陶。
04:28
I remembered how as a kid,
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我还记得我小时候,
04:29
I used to take over the dinner table and order food for everybody.
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曾经负责我们的饭桌, 为所有人点菜。
04:34
Breaking bread has always allowed me to break the mold
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分享面包总能帮我破冰,
04:37
and connect with people.
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与他人建立联系。
04:39
Me and my homie Les,
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我和我的好哥们雷斯
04:40
we grew up on the same block in the Bronx,
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在布朗克斯的同一个街区长大,
04:42
two street dudes.
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两个街头小子。
04:44
He happened to be a chef.
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他碰巧是位厨师。
04:45
We always discussed the possibility of doing something in the food game
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我们总会讨论是否可能 在餐饮产业做出一番名堂,
04:48
for the benefit of our neighborhood.
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造福我们的邻里。
04:51
Les had just won the food show "Chopped."
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雷斯刚刚在美食节目 《厨艺大战(Chopped)》中夺得桂冠。
04:54
Our homie Malcolm was gearing up to run a pastry kitchen at Noma,
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我们的哥们儿马尔科姆整装待发, 准备在诺玛餐厅经营糕点厨房,
04:58
yeah, world's best Noma in Copenhagen, you know the vibes.
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没错,位于哥本哈根的全球 最佳餐厅诺玛,那里的气氛你懂的。
05:03
My man P had just finished training in I-I-Italy,
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我的老友 P 刚刚结束 在意大利的培训,
05:07
Milano to be exact.
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准确说来是在米兰。
05:09
We decided the world needed some Bronx steasoning on it,
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我们觉得世界需要一些 布朗克斯的调味,
05:13
so we mobbed up and formed Ghetto Gastro.
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所以我们结伙组建了 "贫民区美食"。
05:16
(Applause)
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(掌声)
05:26
While I'm aware our name makes a lot of people uncomfortable,
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虽说我清楚我们的名字 会让很多人感到不适,
05:29
for us "ghetto" means home.
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但对于我们来说 “ghetto”(贫民区)意味着家。
05:31
Similar to the way someone in Mumbai or Nairobi
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就像孟买或内罗毕的某人
05:34
might use the word "slum,"
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使用“slum”(贫民窟)这个词的方式,
05:37
it's to locate our people
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这是为了找到我们的人民,
05:38
and to indict the systems of neglect that created these conditions.
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以及对造成这些状况的 系统性忽视提出控诉。
05:43
(Applause)
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(掌声)
05:48
So what is Ghetto Gastro?
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那么 Ghetto Gastro 究竟是什么呢?
05:50
Ultimately, it's a movement and a philosophy.
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归根结底,它是一个运动, 一种哲学。
05:54
We view the work we do as gastrodiplomacy,
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我们将我们的工作 视为美食外交,
05:57
using food and finesse
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用食物和手艺
06:00
to open borders and connect culture.
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开拓边界,联结文化。
06:04
Last year in Tokyo,
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去年在东京,
06:06
we did a Caribbean patty,
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我们做了加勒比肉饼,
06:09
we do jerk wagyu beef,
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和牛牛肉干,
06:12
shio kombu.
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盐昆布。
06:13
We remixed the Bronx classic with the Japanese elements.
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我们将布朗克斯的经典 与日本元素进行了混合。
06:18
And for Kwanzaa,
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而在宽扎节, 【注:一个非裔美国人节日】
06:20
we had to pay homage to our Puerto Ricans,
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为了向波多黎各朋友致敬,
06:23
and we did a coconut charcoal cognac coquito. Dímelo!
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我们做了椰子木炭干邑鸡尾酒。 (西语) 嘿!
06:30
(Laughter)
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(笑声)
06:33
This here is our Black Power waffle
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这是我们的黑色力量华夫饼, 【注:与“黑人权力”双关】
06:36
with some gold leaf syrup.
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淋上了金箔糖浆。
06:40
Make sure you don't slip on the drip.
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别在金丝上滑脱了。 【注:drip 为嘻哈歌曲常用俚语】
06:42
(Laughter)
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(笑声)
06:44
Here we got the 36 Brix plant-based velato.
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这是我们的 36 Brix 植物原料制冰淇淋。 【注:名字由冰淇淋糖度系数衍生而来】
06:49
Strawberry fields, you know the deal.
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俗称草莓田。
06:53
Compressed watermelon,
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压缩西瓜,
06:55
basil seeds,
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罗勒籽,
06:56
a little bit of strawberries up there.
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上面加一点草莓。
06:59
Back to the Bronx Brasserie,
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我们回到布朗克斯餐厅,
07:02
you know we had to hit them in the head with that caviar and cornbread.
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要用鱼子酱和玉米面包给他们当头一棒。 【注:法餐和美国非裔经典食物】
07:06
(Laughter)
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(笑声)
07:08
(Applause)
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(掌声)
07:14
We also practice du-rag diplomacy.
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我们还采用“嘻哈头巾外交”。
07:16
(Laughter)
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(笑声)
07:18
Because, we don't edit who we are when we do our thing.
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因为我们在做自己的事时 不会对我们的身份进行修饰。
07:22
Due to our appearance,
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因为我们的样貌,
07:23
we often get mistaken for rappers or athletes.
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我们经常被误以为是 说唱歌手或者运动员。
07:26
It happened here last year at TED.
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去年在 TED 就发生了这样的事情。
07:29
This dude ran down on me
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有个家伙跑来问我,
07:30
and asked me when I was going to perform.
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什么时候我会表演?
07:33
How about now?
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要不要现在来一段?
07:34
(Applause)
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(掌声)
07:42
So you see,
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所以很明显,
07:44
we've been bringing the Bronx to the world
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我们已经致力于 把布朗克斯带给世界,
07:46
but now we focus on bringing the world to the Bronx.
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但现在,我们正专注于 把世界带到布朗克斯。
07:50
We just opened our spot,
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我们的店刚刚开张,
07:52
an idea kitchen
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一个概念厨房,
07:54
where we make and design products,
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在这里我们制作、设计产品,
07:57
create content --
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创造内容、
07:59
(Music)
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(音乐)
08:12
and host community events.
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并举办社区活动。
08:14
The intention is to build financial capital
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我们的目的是,在我们的地盘儿
08:17
and creative capital in our hood.
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积累金融资本以及创意资本。
08:21
We're also collaborating with world-renowned chef
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我们也和世界知名大厨
08:23
Massimo Bottura
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马西莫·波图拉合作,
08:26
on a refettorio in the Bronx.
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在布朗克斯 经营食堂(refettorio)。
08:28
A refettorio is a design-focused soup kitchen and community center.
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Reffettorio 食堂是一个专注于 设计的流动厨房与社区中心。
08:33
You see the vibes.
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就是这种氛围。
08:34
(Applause)
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(掌声)
08:40
The recent outpouring of grief about the murder
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最近对于说唱歌手、企业家 尼普西·哈塞尔的谋杀案
08:44
of rapper and entrepreneur Nipsey Hussle
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涌现出的悲痛,
08:47
is largely due to the fact that he decided to stay and evolve in place,
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很大程度是因为 他决定留下在原处发展,
08:52
rather than leave his hood.
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而不是离开他的家。
08:54
After his death, some may see this decision as foolish,
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在他死后,有些人或许会觉得 这个决定是愚蠢的,
08:57
but I'm making that same decision every day:
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但我每天都在做出 同样的决定:
09:00
to live in the Bronx,
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在布朗克斯生活,
09:01
to create in the Bronx,
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在布朗克斯创造,
09:03
to invest in the Bronx.
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为布朗克斯投资。
09:05
(Applause)
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(掌声)
09:14
At Ghetto Gastro, we don't run from the word "ghetto,"
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在 Ghetto Gastro, 我们不会逃避“贫民窟”这个词,
09:17
and we don't run from the ghetto.
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也不会从贫民窟逃跑。
09:19
Because at the end of the day,
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因为在最后,
09:21
Ghetto Gastro is about showing you what we already know:
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Ghetto Gastro 想做的 是向你们展现我们已熟知的一点:
09:24
the hood
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我们这地儿
09:26
is good.
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一切都很好。
09:28
(Applause)
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(掌声)
09:33
Thank you.
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谢谢大家。
09:34
(Applause)
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(掌声)
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