Wade Davis: The worldwide web of belief and ritual

Prevoditelj: Senzos Osijek Recezent: Tilen Pigac - EFZG

You know, culture was born of the imagination,

Znate, kultura je rođena iz mašte,

and the imagination -- the imagination as we know it --

a mašta -- mašta kakvu znamo,

came into being when our species descended

nastala je nakon što se naša vrsta izdignula

from our progenitor, Homo erectus,

iz praoca homo erectusa

and, infused with consciousness, began a journey that would carry it

i, poboljšana sviješću, započela putovanje koje će je odvesti

to every corner of the habitable world.

u sve kutke naseljivog svijeta.

For a time, we shared the stage with our distant cousins, Neanderthal,

Neko vrijeme dijelili smo pozornicu s dalekim rođakom neandertalcem

who clearly had some spark of awareness,

koji je sasvim izvjesno imao neku iskru svijesti,

but -- whether it was the increase in the size of the brain,

ali, bilo zbog porasta veličine mozga

or the development of language,

ili razvoja jezika

or some other evolutionary catalyst --

ili pak nekog drugog evolucijskog katalizatora,

we quickly left Neanderthal gasping for survival.

ubrzo smo neandertalca ostavili da se bori za opstanak.

By the time the last Neanderthal disappeared in Europe,

U vrijeme kad je zadnji neandertalac nestao iz Europe,

27,000 years ago,

prije 27.000 godina,

our direct ancestors had already,

naši su direktni preci već

and for 5,000 years,

5.000 godina

been crawling into the belly of the earth,

puzali u utrobi zemlje,

where in the light of the flickers of tallow candles,

gdje su pod treperavom svjetlošću svijeća od loja

they had brought into being

stvarali

the great art of the Upper Paleolithic.

veliku umjetnost kasnog paleolitika.

And I spent two months in the caves of southwest France

Ja sam proveo dva mjeseca u pećinama jugozapadne Francuske

with the poet Clayton Eshleman, who wrote a beautiful book called "Juniper Fuse."

s pjesnikom Claytonom Eshlemanom koji je napisao prekrasnu knjigu nazvanu „Juniper Fuse“.

And you could look at this art and you could, of course,

Gledajući tu umjetnost,

see the complex social organization

mogla se vidjeti kompleksna socijalna organizacija

of the people who brought it into being.

ljudi koji su je stvarali.

But more importantly, it spoke of a deeper yearning,

Još važnije od toga, ona govori o dubljoj čežnji,

something far more sophisticated than hunting magic.

nečemu puno profinjenijem od puke lovačke magije.

And the way Clayton put it was this way.

Clayton o tome govori ovako:

He said, "You know, clearly at some point,

„Znate, u jednom smo trenutku

we were all of an animal nature, and at some point, we weren't."

zasigurno svi imali životinjsku prirodu, a u drugom više nismo“.

And he viewed proto-shamanism as a kind of original attempt,

On gleda na proto-šamanizam kao na originalan pokušaj da se,

through ritual, to rekindle a connection

preko rituala, ponovno zapali veza

that had been irrevocably lost.

koja je bila neopozivo prekinuta.

So, he saw this art not as

On u toj umjetnosti nije vidio

hunting magic, but as postcards of nostalgia.

magiju, već nostalgične razglednice.

And viewed in that light,

Gledana tako,

it takes on a whole other resonance.

ta umjetnost sasvim drugačije rezonira.

And the most amazing thing about the Upper Paleolithic art

Najzapanjujuća stvar o umjetnosti kasnog paleolitika

is that as an aesthetic expression,

je ta da je ona kao estetski izraz

it lasted for almost 20,000 years.

trajala gotovo 20.000 godina.

If these were postcards of nostalgia,

Ako su to nostalgične razglednice,

ours was a very long farewell indeed.

naše je „zbogom“ zaista bilo dugotrajno.

And it was also the beginning of our discontent,

A bilo je i početak našeg nezadovoljstva

because if you wanted to distill all of our experience

jer, ako poželimo raščlaniti sva naša iskustva

since the Paleolithic, it would come down to two words:

od paleolitika, sve se svodi na dvije riječi:

how and why.

„kako“ i „zašto“.

And these are the slivers of insight upon which cultures have been forged.

To su luči pronicljivosti na kojima su iskovane kulture.

Now, all people share the same

Sada svi ljudi dijele iste,

raw, adaptive imperatives.

sirove, prilagodljive imperative.

We all have children.

Svi imamo djecu;

We all have to deal with the mystery of death,

svi se moramo suočiti sa zagonetkom smrti,

the world that waits beyond death,

svijetom koji nas čeka nakon smrti,

the elders who fall away into their elderly years.

starim ljudima koji zalaze u svoje staračke godine.

All of this is part of our common experience,

Sve je to dio našeg zajedničkog iskustva

and this shouldn't surprise us, because, after all,

i to nas ne bi trebalo iznenađivati

biologists have finally proven it to be true,

jer su biolozi napokon dokazali da je istina

something that philosophers have always dreamt to be true.

nešto što su filozofi oduvijek držali kao istinito,

And that is the fact that we are all brothers and sisters.

a to je činjenica da smo svi braća i sestre.

We are all cut from the same genetic cloth.

Svi smo istkani od iste genetičke tkanine.

All of humanity, probably, is descended from a thousand people

Cijelo je čovječanstvo, najvjerojatnije, poteklo od tisuću ljudi

who left Africa roughly 70,000 years ago.

koji su prije otprilike 70.000 godina napustili Afriku.

But the corollary of that is that,

Nužna posljedica toga

if we all are brothers and sisters

da smo svi braća i sestre

and share the same genetic material,

te dijelimo isti genetički materijal

all human populations share the same raw human genius,

je ta da cijela ljudska populacija dijeli istu, sirovu ljudsku genijalnost,

the same intellectual acuity.

istu intelektualnu oštrinu.

And so whether that genius is placed

Je li taj genij upotrijebljen

into -- technological wizardry

za tehnološke novine

has been the great achievement of the West --

koje su veliko dostignuće zapadnog svijeta

or by contrast, into unraveling the complex threads

ili, pak, utkan u kompleksne niti

of memory inherent in a myth,

sjećanja naslijeđenog u mitu,

is simply a matter of choice and cultural orientation.

jednostavno je stvar izbora i kulturne orijentacije.

There is no progression of affairs

U ljudskom iskustvu

in human experience.

ne postoji razvijanje,

There is no trajectory of progress. There's no pyramid

ne postoji krivulja napretka, ne postoji piramida

that conveniently places Victorian England at the apex

koja smješta viktorijansku Englesku na vrh

and descends down the flanks

te se spušta prema

to the so-called primitives of the world.

takozvanim primitivcima svijeta.

All peoples are simply cultural options,

Svi su narodi samo kulturološke opcije,

different visions of life itself.

različite vizije života kao takvog.

But what do I mean by different visions of life

Ali što mislim kada kažem da različite vizije života

making for completely different

tvore posve različite

possibilities for existence?

mogućnosti za opstanak?

Well, let's slip for a moment into the greatest culture sphere

Pa hajdemo na trenutak svratiti u najveću kulturnu površinu

ever brought into being by the imagination,

ikad dovedenu u postojanje pomoću mašte --

that of Polynesia.

Polineziju,

10,000 square kilometers,

deset tisuća kvadratnih kilometara,

tens of thousands of islands flung like jewels upon the southern sea.

desetak tisuća otoka razbacanih poput dragulja po južnom moru.

I recently sailed on the Hokulea,

Nedavno sam jedrio na Hokuleji,

named after the sacred star of Hawaii,

nazvanoj prema svetoj zvijezdi Havaja,

throughout the South Pacific to make a film

diljem južnog Pacifika kako bih napravio film

about the navigators.

o navigatorima.

These are men and women who, even today, can name

To su muškarci i žene koji, čak i u današnje vrijeme, mogu imenovati

250 stars in the night sky.

250 zvijezda na noćnom nebu.

These are men and women who can sense the presence of distant atolls

To su muškarci i žene koji mogu osjetiti prisutnost udaljenih atola

of islands beyond the visible horizon,

izvan vidokruga

simply by watching the reverberation of waves

jednostavno promatrajući odražavanje valova

across the hull of their vessel, knowing full well

o korito njihovog plovila, znajući veoma dobro

that every island group in the Pacific

da svaka grupa otoka na Pacifiku

has its unique refractive pattern

ima jedinstveni, refraktivni obrazac

that can be read with the same perspicacity

koji se može prepoznati s istom pronicljivošću

with which a forensic scientist would read a fingerprint.

s kojom forenzičari uočavaju otisak prsta.

These are sailors who in the darkness, in the hull of the vessel,

To su mornari koji u tami u koritu broda

can distinguish as many as 32 different sea swells

mogu razlikovati do 32 različite vrste bibavica

moving through the canoe at any one point in time,

koje se kreću uzduž kanua u bilo kojem trenutku,

distinguishing local wave disturbances

razlikujući lokalne valne smetnje

from the great currents that pulsate across the ocean,

od velikih struja koje pulsiraju diljem oceana

that can be followed with the same ease

i koje se mogu pratiti s istom lakoćom

that a terrestrial explorer would follow a river to the sea.

s kojom bi istraživač na kopnu slijedio rijeku do mora.

Indeed, if you took all of the genius

Zaista, kada biste uzeli istu genijalnost

that allowed us to put a man on the moon

koja nam je omogućila slanje čovjeka na Mjesec

and applied it to an understanding of the ocean,

i primijenili ju na razumijevanje oceana,

what you would get is Polynesia.

ono što biste dobili jest Polinezija.

And if we slip from the realm of the sea

Ako prijeđemo s područja mora

into the realm of the spirit of the imagination,

u područje duha mašte,

you enter the realm of Tibetan Buddhism.

ući ćemo u područje tibetanskog budizma.

And I recently made a film called "The Buddhist Science of the Mind."

Nedavno sam napravio film nazvan „Budistička znanost o umu“.

Why did we use that word, science?

Zašto smo koristili tu riječ, „znanost“?

What is science but the empirical pursuit of the truth?

Što je znanost ako ne duhovna potraga za istinom?

What is Buddhism but 2,500 years

Što je budizam ako ne 2.500 godina

of empirical observation

duhovnog promatranja

as to the nature of mind?

prirode uma?

I travelled for a month in Nepal with our good friend, Matthieu Ricard,

Mjesec sam dana putovao Nepalom s dragim prijateljem Matthieom Ricardom,

and you'll remember Matthieu famously said to all of us

i sjetit ćete se kako je on svima nama

here once at TED,

na TED konferenciji

"Western science is a major response to minor needs."

jedanput slavno rekao: „Zapadnjačka je znanost veliki odgovor na male potrebe“.

We spend all of our lifetime trying to live to be 100

Mi provedemo cijeli životni vijek nastojeći doživjeti stotu

without losing our teeth.

bez izgubljenih zubi.

The Buddhist spends all their lifetime trying to understand the nature of existence.

Budisti svoj životni vijek provode pokušavajući odgonetnuti prirodu postojanja.

Our billboards celebrate naked children in underwear.

Naši reklamni paneli slave golu djecu u donjem rublju.

Their billboards are manuals,

Njihovi su reklamni paneli priručnici,

prayers to the well-being of all sentient creatures.

molitve za dobrobit svih osjetnih bića.

And with the blessing of Trulshik Rinpoche, we began a pilgrimage

S blagoslovom Trulshika Rinpochea započeli smo svoje hodočašće

to a curious destination,

čudesnom odredištu

accompanied by a great doctor.

u pratnji dobrog liječnika.

And the destination was a single room in a nunnery,

Odredište je bila jedna soba u ženskom samostanu

where a woman had gone into lifelong retreat

gdje se jedna žena povukla u cjeloživotno utočište

55 years before.

prije 55 godina.

And en route, we took darshan from Rinpoche,

Na putu smo uzeli „darshan“ od Rinpochea

and he sat with us and told us about the Four Noble Truths,

i on je sjeo s nama i pričao nam o četiri plemenite istine,

the essence of the Buddhist path.

o srži budističkog puta.

All life is suffering. That doesn't mean all life is negative.

Sav je život patnja. To ne znači da je sav život negativan.

It means things happen.

To znači da se stvari događaju.

The cause of suffering is ignorance.

Uzrok je patnje neznanje.

By that, the Buddha did not mean stupidity;

Pod tim Buda nije mislio na glupavost,

he meant clinging to the illusion

mislio je na prianjanje uz iluziju

that life is static and predictable.

da je život statičan i predvidljiv.

The third noble truth said that ignorance can be overcome.

Treća je plemenita istina da se neznanje može nadići.

And the fourth and most important, of course,

I četvrta je i najvažnija, naravno,

was the delineation of a contemplative practice

prepoznavanje kontemplativne prakse

that not only had the possibility

koja ne samo da ima mogućnost

of a transformation of the human heart,

promjene ljudskog srca

but had 2,500 years of empirical evidence

već ima i 2.500 godina razumnih dokaza

that such a transformation was a certainty.

da je ta promjena sigurnost.

And so, when this door opened onto the face of a woman

I kada su se ta vrata otvorila i otkrila lice žene

who had not been out of that room in 55 years,

koja 55 godina nije izašla iz te prostorije,

you did not see a mad woman.

niste vidjeli ludu ženu.

You saw a woman who was more clear

Vidjeli ste ženu koja je bila bistrija

than a pool of water in a mountain stream.

od vode u planinskom potoku.

And of course, this is what the Tibetan monks told us.

I, naravno, to je ono što su nam tibetanski monasi rekli.

They said, at one point, you know, we don't really believe

Rekli su u jednom trenutku: „Znate, mi možemo ne vjerovati

you went to the moon, but you did.

da ste vi otišli na Mjesec, ali jeste.

You may not believe that we achieve enlightenment

Vi možete ne vjerovati da mi doživimo prosvjetljenje

in one lifetime, but we do.

u jednom životu, ali doživimo“.

And if we move from the realm of the spirit

A, ako odemo iz područja duhovnog

to the realm of the physical,

u područje fizičkog,

to the sacred geography of Peru --

u svetu geografiju Perua.

I've always been interested in the relationships of indigenous people

Oduvijek sam bio zainteresiran za vezu domorodačkih naroda

that literally believe that the Earth is alive,

koji doslovno vjeruju da je zemlja živa,

responsive to all of their aspirations,

da odgovara na sve njihove težnje,

all of their needs.

sve njihove potrebe.

And, of course, the human population

Naravno, ljudska populacija

has its own reciprocal obligations.

ima svoje recipročne obaveze.

I spent 30 years living amongst

Proveo sam 30 godina živeći među

the people of Chinchero

ljudima Chincherra

and I always heard about an event that I always wanted to participate in.

i slušao sam o događaju u kojem sam uvijek želio sudjelovati.

Once each year, the fastest young boy

Jedanput je godišnje u svakom zaselku

in each hamlet is given the honor of becoming a woman.

najbržem malom dječaku dana čast da postane ženom.

And for one day, he wears the clothing of his sister

I na jedan dan on nosi odjeću svojih sestara

and he becomes a transvestite,

i postane transvestit,

a waylaka. And for that day,

„waylaka“. Na taj dan

he leads all able-bodied men on a run,

on vodi sve dovoljno snažne muškarce u utrku,

but it's not your ordinary run.

ali to nije obična utrka.

You start off at 11,500 feet.

Počinje na visini od 3.505 metara.

You run down to the base of the sacred mountain, Antakillqa.

Trči se do podnožja svete planine Antkilka*.

You run up to 15,000 feet,

Trči se gore 4.572 metra ,

descend 3,000 feet.

spusti se 914 metara

Climb again over the course of 24 hours.

i opet penje u roku od 24 sata.

And of course, the waylakama spin,

Naravno, Waylakamaspin*,

the trajectory of the route,

putanja rute,

is marked by holy mounds of Earth,

obilježena je svetim brežuljcima Zemlje,

where coke is given to the Earth, libations of alcohol to the wind,

gdje se zemlji daruje koka, alkohol prolijeva u vjetar

the vortex of the feminine is brought to the mountaintop.

i vrtlog ženskog spola doveden je na vrh planine.

And the metaphor is clear: you go into the mountain as an individual,

Metafora je jasna: odlaziš na planinu kao individualac,

but through exhaustion, through sacrifice,

ali kroz iscrpljenost, kroz žrtvu,

you emerge as a community that has once again

izranjaš kao zajednica koja je još jednom

reaffirmed its sense of place in the planet.

potvrdila svoje mjesto na planetu.

And at 48, I was the only outsider ever to go through this,

U dobi od 48, ja sam bio jedini stranac koji je kroz to prošao,

only one to finish it.

jedini koji je to završio.

I only managed to do it by chewing more coca leaves in one day

I uspio sam jedino zato što sam sažvakao više listova koke u jednom danu

than anyone in the 4,000-year history of the plant.

nego itko u 4.000 godina dugoj povijesti biljke.

But these localized rituals become pan-Andean,

Ti su lokalni običaji postali karakterističnim za cijele Ande

and these fantastic festivals,

i ti su fantastični festivali,

like that of the Qoyllur Rit'i, which occurs

poput Qoyllur Rit'i-a koji se događa

when the Pleiades reappear in the winter sky.

kada se Plejade ponovno pojave na zimskom nebu,

It's kind of like an Andean Woodstock:

poput Andskog Woodstocka:

60,000 Indians on pilgrimage

60.000 Indijanaca na hodočašću

to the end of a dirt road

prema kraju prašnjavog puta

that leads to the sacred valley, called the Sinakara,

koji vodi do svete doline zvane Sinakara,

which is dominated by three tongues

kojom dominiraju tri jezička

of the great glacier.

velikog ledenjaka.

The metaphor is so clear. You bring the crosses from your community,

Metafora je veoma jasna: donesu se križevi iz zajednice

in this wonderful fusion of Christian

u prekrasnu mješavinu kršćanstva

and pre-Columbian ideas.

i pred-kolumbovske ideje.

You place the cross into the ice,

Križ se postavi u led

in the shadow of Ausangate, the most sacred of all Apus,

u sjenu Ausangate, najsvetije od svih Apusa,

or sacred mountains of the Inca.

svetih planina Inka,

And then you do the ritual dances that empower the crosses.

i tada se plešu ritualni plesovi koji osnažuju križeve.

Now, these ideas and these events

Te ideje i ti događaji

allow us even to deconstruct iconic places

dopuštaju nam da ponovno izgradimo kultna mjesta

that many of you have been to, like Machu Picchu.

koja su mnogi od vas posjetili, poput Machu Picchua.

Machu Picchu was never a lost city.

Machu Picchu nikad nije bio izgubljen grad.

On the contrary, it was completely linked in

Baš suprotno, on je bio potpuno povezan

to the 14,000 kilometers of royal roads

pomoću 14.000 km kraljevskih cesta

the Inca made in less than a century.

koje su Inke napravile u manje od sto godina.

But more importantly, it was linked in

Još važnije, bio je povezan

to the Andean notions of sacred geography.

s andskom idejom o svetoj geografiji.

The intiwatana, the hitching post to the sun,

Intiwatana, „mjesto za sunce“,

is actually an obelisk that constantly reflects the light

zapravo je obelisk koji neprestano reflektira svjetlo

that falls on the sacred Apu of Machu Picchu,

koje pada na sveti Apu Machu Picchua,

which is Sugarloaf Mountain, called Huayna Picchu.

Šećernu glavu nazvanu Huayna Picchu.

If you come to the south of the intiwatana, you find an altar.

Ako dođete na jug Intiwatane, naći ćete oltar.

Climb Huayna Picchu, find another altar.

Popnite se na Huayna Picchu, naći ćete još jedan oltar.

Take a direct north-south bearing,

Idite izravnim sjever-jug pravcem

you find to your astonishment

i na svoje zaprepaštenje

that it bisects the intiwatana stone,

vidjet ćete da on dijeli Intiwatana kamen

goes to the skyline,

na pola, odlazi prema horizontu,

hits the heart of Salcantay, the second of the most important mountains

udara posred Scalantaye, druge najvažnije planine

of the Incan empire.

carstva Inka,

And then beyond Salcantay, of course,

i tada iznad Salcantaya, naravno,

when the southern cross reaches the southernmost point in the sky,

kada južni križ dostigne najjužniju točku na nebu,

directly in that same alignment, the Milky Way overhead.

točno u tom pravcu, Mliječna staza nad glavom.

But what is enveloping Machu Picchu from below?

A što obuhvaća Machu Picchu odozdola:

The sacred river, the Urubamba, or the Vilcanota,

sveta rijeka Urubamba ili Vilcanota,

which is itself the Earthly equivalent of the Milky Way,

koja je sama po sebi zemaljski odgovarajući parnjak Mliječne staze,

but it's also the trajectory that Viracocha walked

ali je i putanja kojom je Viracocha kročio

at the dawn of time when he brought the universe into being.

u zoru vremena kada je stvorio svemir.

And where does the river rise?

A gdje se rijeka uzdiže?

Right on the slopes of the Koariti.

Upravo na padinama Koiaritia*.

So, 500 years after Columbus,

Dakle, 500 godina nakon Kolumba,

these ancient rhythms of landscape

ti drevni ritmovi pejzaža

are played out in ritual.

odigravaju se po običaju.

Now, when I was here at the first TED,

Kada sam bio ovdje na prvoj TED-konferenciji,

I showed this photograph: two men of the Elder Brothers,

pokazao sam ovu fotografiju: dva muškarca, pripadnici Starije braće,

the descendants, survivors of El Dorado.

potomci, svjedoci Eldorada.

These, of course, are the descendants

To su, naravno, potomci

of the ancient Tairona civilization.

drevne Tairona civilizacije.

If those of you who are here remember that I mentioned

Neki se od vas možda sjećaju da sam spomenuo

that they remain ruled by a ritual priesthood,

da kod njih i dalje vlada ritualno svećenstvo,

but the training for the priesthood is extraordinary.

ali obuka je za svećenstvo nevjerojatna.

Taken from their families, sequestered in a shadowy world of darkness

Odvojeni od obitelji, osamljeni u sjenovitom svijetu tame

for 18 years -- two nine-year periods deliberately chosen

18 godina, dva perioda od devet godina namjerno izabrana

to evoke the nine months they spend in the natural mother's womb.

da prizovu devet mjeseci koje su proveli u utrobi svoje biološke majke.

All that time, the world only exists as an abstraction,

Svo to vrijeme svijet postoji samo kao apstrakcija,

as they are taught the values of their society.

dok bivaju učeni o vrijednostima svog društva.

Values that maintain the proposition that their prayers,

Vrijednostima, koje pretpostavljaju da njihove molitve,

and their prayers alone, maintain the cosmic balance.

i to isključivo njihove molitve, održavaju kozmičku ravnotežu.

Now, the measure of a society is not only what it does,

Mjerilo nekog društva nije samo ono što društvo čini,

but the quality of its aspirations.

već i kvaliteta njegovih težnji.

And I always wanted to go back into these mountains,

I uvijek sam se želio vratiti u te planine

to see if this could possibly be true,

da vidim može li to ikako biti istina,

as indeed had been reported by the great anthropologist,

kao što je izvijestio veliki antropolog

Reichel-Dolmatoff.

Reichel-Dolmatoff.

So, literally two weeks ago,

I tako, doslovno prije dva tjedna,

I returned from having spent six weeks with the Elder Brothers

vratio sam se nakon što sam šest tjedana proveo sa Starijom braćom

on what was clearly the most

na najnevjerojatnijem

extraordinary trip of my life.

putovanju mog života.

These really are a people who live and breathe

To su zaista ljudi koji žive i dišu

the realm of the sacred,

u carstvu svete,

a baroque religiosity that is simply awesome.

kompleksne religioznosti koja je jednostavno fantastična.

They consume more coca leaves than any human population,

Oni konzumiraju više listova koke nego bilo tko drugi:

half a pound per man, per day.

oko 22 dkg po čovjeku i danu.

The gourd you see here is --

Tikva koju vidite ovdje

everything in their lives is symbolic.

sve je u njihovim životima simbolično.

Their central metaphor is a loom.

Njihova je centralna metafora razboj.

They say, "Upon this loom, I weave my life."

Kažu da na tom razboju tkam svoj život.

They refer to the movements as they exploit the ecological niches of the gradient

Odnose se na pokrete dok iskorištavaju ekološke niše nagiba

as "threads."

kao „niti“.

When they pray for the dead, they make these gestures with their hands,

Kada se mole za mrtve, oni rade te pokrete svojim rukama,

spinning their thoughts into the heavens.

šaljući svoje misli u nebesa.

You can see the calcium buildup on the head of the poporo gourd.

Možete vidjeti naslage kalcija na Poporo-tikvi.

The gourd is a feminine aspect; the stick is a male.

Tikva je ženski aspekt, a držak muški.

You put the stick in the powder

Držak se umoči u prašak

to take the sacred ashes -- well, they're not ashes,

kako bi se uzeo sveti pepeo. Zapravo, nije to pepeo,

they're burnt limestone --

već spaljen vapnenac,

to empower the coca leaf, to change

kako bi osnažio list koke

the pH of the mouth to facilitate the absorption

i promijenio Ph-vrijednost usta, kako bi se olakšalo upijanje

of cocaine hydrochloride.

kokain hidroklorida.

But if you break a gourd, you cannot simply throw it away,

Ako se slomi tikvu, ne može ju se jednostavno baciti

because every stroke of that stick

jer svaki udarac tog drška,

that has built up that calcium,

koji je stvorio taj kalcij,

the measure of a man's life,

mjeru čovjekova života,

has a thought behind it.

ima misao iza sebe.

Fields are planted in such an extraordinary way,

Polja su posađena na tako nevjerojatan način

that the one side of the field

da je jedna strana

is planted like that by the women.

posađena od strane žena.

The other side is planted like that by the men. Metaphorically,

Druga strana posađena je tako od strane muškaraca. Metaforički,

you turn it on the side, and you have a piece of cloth.

ako je okrenete na stranu, dobijete komad tkanine.

And they are the descendants of the ancient Tairona civilization,

I oni su potomci drevne Tairona civilizacije,

the greatest goldsmiths of South America,

najboljih zlatara Južne Amerike,

who in the wake of the conquest,

koji su se pred osvajanjem

retreated into this isolated volcanic massif

povukli u taj izolirani vulkanski masiv

that soars to 20,000 feet

koji se uzdiže do 6.096 m

above the Caribbean coastal plain.

iznad karipske obalne ravnice.

There are four societies:

Postoje četiri društva:

the Kogi, the Wiwa, the Kankwano and the Arhuacos.

Kogi, Wiwa, Kankuamo i Arhuacos.

I traveled with the Arhuacos,

Putovao sam s Arhuacosima

and the wonderful thing about this story

i predivna je stvar o toj priči

was that this man, Danilo Villafane --

da ovaj čovjek, Danilo Viathanya*,

if we just jump back here for a second.

ako samo skočimo ovdje na trenutak.

When I first met Danilo, in the Colombian embassy in Washington,

Kada sam prvi put upoznao Danila, u Kolumbijskom veleposlanstvu u Washingtonu,

I couldn't help but say, "You know,

nisam mogao, a da ne kažem: “Znaš,

you look a lot like an old friend of mine."

izgledaš kao jedan moj stari prijatelj“.

Well, it turns out he was the son of my friend, Adalberto,

Ispalo je da je on sin mog prijatelja Aroberta

from 1974, who had been killed by the FARC.

iz 1974. kojeg je ubila kolumbijska vojska

And I said, "Danilo, you won't remember this,

i rekao sam: Danilo, nećeš se sjećati ovoga,

but when you were an infant, I carried you on my back,

ali kada si bio dojenče, nosio sam te na svojim leđima

up and down the mountains."

gore i dolje po planinama.

And because of that, Danilo invited us

I zbog toga nas je Danilo pozvao

to go to the very heart of the world,

da pođemo u samo srce svijeta,

a place where no journalist had ever been permitted.

mjesto na koje nijednom novinaru nije bilo dopušteno doći:

Not simply to the flanks of the mountains,

ne samo do obronaka planina

but to the very iced peaks which are the destiny of the pilgrims.

već i na same ledene vrhove koji su sudbina hodočasnika.

And this man sitting cross-legged

A ovaj je čovjek koji sjedi prekriženih nogu

is now a grown-up Eugenio,

sada odrasli Yuhenio*,

a man who I've known since 1974.

čovjek kojeg poznajem od 1974.

And this is one of those initiates.

A ovo je jedan od tih početnika.

No, it's not true that they're kept in the darkness for 18 years,

Ne, nije istina da su oni u tami 18 godina,

but they are kept within the confines

oni su unutar granica

of the ceremonial men's circle

ceremonijalnog kruga muškaraca

for 18 years.

18 godina.

This little boy will never step outside

Taj dječak nikada neće izaći izvan

of the sacred fields

svetih polja

that surround the men's hut for all that time,

koja okružuju kolibu muškaraca;

until he begins his journey of initiation.

ne dok ne započne svoj put inicijacije.

For that entire time, the world only exists as an abstraction,

Cijelo je to vrijeme svijet apstraktan

as he is taught the values of society,

i on biva poučen vrijednostima društva

including this notion that their prayers alone

i onoj ideji da isključivo njihove molitve

maintain the cosmic balance.

održavaju kozmičku ravnotežu.

Before we could begin our journey,

Prije nego što smo mogli započeti naše putovanje,

we had to be cleansed at the portal of the Earth.

morali smo biti očišćeni na vratima zemlje.

And it was extraordinary to be taken by a priest.

I bilo je izvanredno kada te svećenik uzme

And you see that the priest never wears shoes because holy feet --

i vidiš da on nikad ne nosi cipele zbog svetih stopala

there must be nothing between the feet

jer ništa ne smije biti između stopala

and the Earth for a mamo.

i zemlje za Mamoa.

And this is actually the place where the Great Mother

I to je zapravo mjesto gdje je velika majka

sent the spindle into the world

poslala vreteno u svijet,

that elevated the mountains and created the homeland

vreteno koje je izdiglo planine i stvorilo zavičaj

that they call the heart of the world.

koji oni zovu srcem zemlje.

We traveled high into the paramo,

Putovali smo u Potomo

and as we crested the hills,

i, dok smo prelazili brda,

we realized that the men were interpreting

uočili smo da muškarci svaku izbočinu

every single bump on the landscape

u krajoliku promatraju

in terms of their own intense religiosity.

u kontekstu vlastite intenzivne religioznosti.

And then of course, as we reached our final destination,

Naravno, kada smo stigli do našeg konačnog odredišta,

a place called Mamancana,

mjesta zvanog Mananakana*,

we were in for a surprise,

iznenadili smo se

because the FARC were waiting to kidnap us.

jer je kolumbijska vojska čekala da nas otme.

And so we ended up being taken aside into these huts,

Tako smo završili u tim kolibama,

hidden away until the darkness.

skriveni do mraka.

And then, abandoning all our gear,

I tada, napuštajući svu našu opremu,

we were forced to ride out in the middle of the night,

bili smo prisiljeni uzjahati usred noći,

in a quite dramatic scene.

u vrlo dramatičnoj sceni.

It's going to look like a John Ford Western.

Izgledat će kao vestern Johna Forda.

And we ran into a FARC patrol at dawn, so it was quite harrowing.

Naletjeli smo na patrolu vojske u zoru pa je bilo vrlo iscrpljujuće.

It will be a very interesting film. But what was fascinating

Bit će to vrlo zanimljiv film. Ali ono što je bilo fascinantno

is that the minute there was a sense of dangers,

jest to da su isti trenutak kada se osjetila opasnost,

the mamos went into a circle of divination.

svećenici otišli u krug vračanja.

And of course, this is a photograph

Naravno, ova je slika

literally taken the night we were in hiding,

doslovno slikana te noći dok smo se skrivali,

as they divine their route

dok su oni blagoslivljali rutu

to take us out of the mountains.

da nas odvede u planine.

We were able to, because we had trained

Mogli smo, jer smo imali ljude osposobljene

people in filmmaking,

za snimanje filmova,

continue with our work,

nastaviti sa svojim radom

and send our Wiwa and Arhuaco filmmakers

i poslati svoje Wiwa i Arhuaco filmaše

to the final sacred lakes

do posljednjih svetih jezera

to get the last shots for the film,

da snime posljednje kadrove za film,

and we followed the rest of the Arhuaco back to the sea,

ali mi smo slijedili ostale Arhuace natrag do mora,

taking the elements from the highlands to the sea.

uzimajući elemente od brdovitog kraja do mora.

And here you see how their sacred landscape

I ovdje se moglo vidjeti kako je njihov sveti zavičaj

has been covered by brothels and hotels and casinos,

prekriven bordelima, hotelima i kasinima,

and yet, still they pray.

a oni se ipak mole.

And it's an amazing thing to think

I bila je prekrasna stvar shvatiti

that this close to Miami,

da ovako blizu Miamija,

two hours from Miami, there is an entire civilization of people

točnije dva sata od Miamija, postoji cijela civilizacija ljudi

praying every day for your well-being.

koja svaki dan moli za tvoju dobrobit.

They call themselves the Elder Brothers.

Zovu se Starijom braćom.

They dismiss the rest of us who have ruined the world

Oni odbacuju nas ostale koji smo uništili svijet

as the Younger Brothers. They cannot understand

kao mlađa braća. Oni ne mogu razumjeti

why it is that we do what we do to the Earth.

zašto radimo zemlji to što radimo.

Now, if we slip to another end of the world,

Sada, ako odemo na drugi kraj svijeta.

I was up in the high Arctic

Bio sam na Arktiku

to tell a story about global warming,

kako bih ispričao priču o globalnom zatopljenju,

inspired in part by

djelomično nadahnut

the former Vice President's wonderful book.

prekrasnom knjigom bivšeg potpredsjednika.

And what struck me so extraordinary

Ono što me se dojmilo na nevjerojatan način

was to be again with the Inuit --

bilo je opet biti s Inuitima,

a people who don't fear the cold, but take advantage of it.

ljudima koji se ne boje hladnoće, već ju iskorištavaju.

A people who

Ljudi koji

find a way, with their imagination,

svojom maštom pronalaze način

to carve life out of that very frozen.

da izrezbare život iz nečeg zamrznutog.

A people for whom blood on ice

Ljudi za koje krv na ledu

is not a sign of death, but an affirmation of life.

nije znak smrti, već potvrda života.

And yet tragically, when you now go to those northern communities,

Ali ipak tragično, kada odete u jednu od tih sjevernjačkih zajednica,

you find to your astonishment

na svoje zaprepaštenje

that whereas the sea ice used to come in in September

vidite da je morski led uobičavao doći u rujnu

and stay till July,

i ostati do srpnja,

in a place like Kanak in northern Greenland,

a na mjestima poput Kanaka na sjevernom Grenlandu,

it literally comes in now in November

sada dolazi u studenom

and stays until March.

i ostaje do ožujka.

So, their entire year has been cut in half.

Dakle, cijela im je godina prepolovljena.

Now, I want to stress that none of these peoples

Sada bih želio istaknuti da nijedan od ovih naroda

that I've been quickly talking about here

o kojima sam ovdje nabrzinu govorio

are disappearing worlds.

nisu svjetovi koji nestaju.

These are not dying peoples.

To nisu narodi koji izumiru.

On the contrary, you know,

Posve suprotno, znate,

if you have the heart to feel and the eyes to see,

ako imate srce da osjećate i oči da vidite,

you discover that the world is not flat.

otkrivate da svijet nije tako ravan.

The world remains a rich tapestry.

Svijet ostaje bogati goblen.

It remains a rich topography of the spirit.

Ostaje bogata topografija duha.

These myriad voices of humanity

To mnoštvo glasova čovječanstva

are not failed attempts at being new,

nije propali pokušaj bivanja novim,

failed attempts at being modern.

propali pokušaj bivanja modernim.

They're unique facets of the human imagination.

To su jedinstveni pogledi ljudske maštovitosti.

They're unique answers to a fundamental question:

Oni su jedinstveni odgovori na temeljno pitanje:

what does it mean to be human and alive?

Što znači biti čovjekom i živjeti?

And when asked that question, they respond

Kada im se postavi to pitanje, oni odgovaraju

with 6,000 different voices.

sa 6.000 različitih glasova.

And collectively, those voices become our human repertoire

Kolektivno, ti glasovi postaju naš, ljudski repertoar

for dealing with the challenges that will confront us

za suočavanje s izazovima koji će nas zateći

in the ensuing millennia.

u narednim tisućljećima.

Our industrial society is scarcely

Naše je industrijsko društvo staro jedva

300 years old.

300 godina.

That shallow history shouldn't suggest to anyone

Ta površna povijest ne bi trebala pretpostavljati

that we have all of the answers

da mi imamo sve odgovore

for all of the questions that will confront us

na sva pitanja koja će nas zateći

in the ensuing millennia.

u narednim tisućljećima.

The myriad voices of humanity are not failed attempts at being us.

To mnoštvo glasova nije neuspjeli pokušaj da budu mi.

They are unique answers to that fundamental question:

Ono je jedinstven odgovor na temeljno pitanje:

what does it mean to be human and alive?

Što znači biti čovjekom i živjeti?

And there is indeed a fire burning over the Earth,

I zaista postoji vatra koja gori nad zemljom,

taking with it not only plants and animals,

uzimajući sa sobom ne samo biljke i životinje

but the legacy of humanity's brilliance.

već i baštinu ljudske briljantnosti.

Right now, as we sit here in this room,

Sad, dok sjedimo ovdje u ovoj prostoriji,

of those 6,000 languages spoken the day that you were born,

od 6.000 jezika govorenih na dan kad ste se rodili,

fully half aren't being taught to children.

djeca ne uče niti pola.

So, you're living through a time

Dakle, živimo u vremenu

when virtually half of humanity's intellectual,

kada se polovici ljudskog intelektualnog,

social and spiritual legacy

društvenog i duhovnog naslijeđa

is being allowed to slip away.

dopušta da jednostavno nestane.

This does not have to happen.

To se ne mora dogoditi.

These peoples are not failed attempts at being modern --

Ti ljudi nisu propali pokušaji bivanja modernim,

quaint and colorful and destined to fade away

neobičnim, slikovitim i osuđenim na to da se iščezne

as if by natural law.

kao po prirodnom zakonu.

In every case, these are dynamic, living peoples

U svakom slučaju, to su dinamični, živi narodi

being driven out of existence by identifiable forces.

tjerani u propast silama čiji je identitet moguće utvrditi.

That's actually an optimistic observation,

To je zapravo optimistično opažanje

because it suggests that if human beings

jer predlaže da, ako je polovica ljudskih bića

are the agents of cultural destruction,

agent kulturnog uništenja,

we can also be, and must be,

mi također možemo i moramo

the facilitators of cultural survival.

poduprijeti kulturni opstanak.

Thank you very much.

Hvala Vam lijepa.