How surfboards connect us to nature | Small Thing Big Idea, a TED series

Transcriber: TED Translators admin Reviewer: Krystian Aparta

翻译人员: Feilin Hu 校对人员: Yanyan Hong

Riding a wave is like suddenly gaining speed

冲浪就像是突然加速，

and gliding at the same time.

同时开始滑行。

Like walking on water, like flying.

像在水上行走，像飞翔。

I think it's really about being one with a natural phenomenon.

我觉得就好像与自然合二为一。

[Small thing. Big idea.]

【小事物，大智慧】

The surfboard requires a lot of ergonomic thinking.

冲浪板需要许多人体工程学上的思考。

How do I stand on it? How do I not slip off?

我该怎么站？怎么站得稳？

But at the same time,

但同时，

它又得兼顾水上的环境。

it really has to work in that fluid environment.

It's really considered for the rider in some areas

一个冲浪板得同时考量到 冲浪者的许多方面，

and for water and physics in others.

还有水流和物理学等等。

A surfboard is made out of a core element

冲浪板的主要组成部分是泡沫，

which tends to be foam, which makes the board float,

这使冲浪板可以浮起来，

and the skin of the board is some kind of resin,

冲浪板的表面是由树脂，

epoxy, sometimes fiberglass.

环氧基树脂，有时是 玻璃纤维组成的材质。

There often is also a stringer,

通常冲浪板还有一根纵梁，

a wood piece down the middle,

也就是贯穿中央的木头，

which makes it stronger.

能增强冲浪板的强度。

The rocker is the curvature of the board in the front.

板弧就是板头的弧度，

That is important because that determines

板弧很重要，因为它决定了

what kind of wave you will be able to take,

你可以冲什么样的海浪，

how steep the wave is.

能冲多高的浪。

The tail affects performance.

板尾则影响冲浪的表现。

Different tails will make the board react differently,

不同的板尾会让 冲浪板展现不同的性能，

so it's a lot about personal preference.

所以这和个人偏好比较有关。

Our understanding of surfing

我们对于冲浪的了解，

comes from when the Tahitians in 1200 AD brought it to Hawaii.

可以追溯到公元 1200 年， 由大溪地人将冲浪带至夏威夷。

So when James Cook arrived around 1780,

所以当库克船长在西元 1780 年左右到达夏威夷时，

he was mesmerized by hundreds of people in the water,

他被海面上数百人的景象迷住了，

children, women, men, surfing naked.

男女老少都裸着冲浪。

Calvinist missionaries arrive

直到加尔文主义的基督教传教士抵达，

and they're scandalized by it.

将之污名化，

It becomes an illegal activity.

冲浪因此成了违法活动。

It becomes counterculture.

变成一种亚文化。

The father of modern surfing is a Hawaiian named Duke Kahanamoku.

现代冲浪之父叫杜克 · 卡哈纳莫库 （Duke Kahanamoku）的夏威夷人。

He is an extraordinary swimmer,

他是一位非凡的游泳健将，

wins gold at the Olympics in 1912.

曾于 1912 年赢得奥运会金牌。

Goes around the world to show his swimming

他走遍世界展示他的泳姿，

but brings surfboards and demonstrates surfing.

同时也将冲浪板展现于世人。

Imagine, people had never seen surfing before.

想象一下，大家从未见过冲浪运动。

Suddenly, some person from a faraway place

但突然间，从远方来了一个人，

is standing on water, riding on water.

可以就这样站在水上划水。

He comes back to Hawaii,

他回到夏威夷，

and they start to make more boards.

从此当地人开始制作更多的冲浪板。

Pre-Second World War,

二战前，

you're still looking at big, heavy wood boards.

冲浪板还是厚重巨大的木板。

Post-Second World War,

二战后，

new materials and new technologies become available,

有了新材料和新科技，

and those make the board lighter, more accessible, cheaper,

因此冲浪板变得更轻， 更易携带，也更便宜，

but it continues to be a custom object,

但它仍然是一个定制物品，

something that is made specifically for a person

一件为专人，或某个特定的冲浪点

or for a certain spot.

所量身打造的物品。

It's a very symbiotic relationship

冲浪手和冲浪板型设计师间

between surfer and shaper.

更像是共生的关系。

There's so many different criteria

影响冲浪板在水中的

that affect the physics of how that surfboard

运动性能的

is moving in water.

因素实在是太多了。

A longboard is typically used on smaller waves.

比如长板特别适合小浪。

The riding has a lot of style.

也有不同的冲浪姿势。

You can walk the board,

你可以在板上走交叉步，

put your toes over it, do a hang ten.

脚趾超过板头，做一个板头驾乘。

A shortboard will be faster.

短板则更快。

They're harder to ride, they sink under the body.

更难驾驭，浮力小。

Board design comes at the intersection between those physical factors,

板型设计就涉及到 这些不同的物理因素，

and really, how I want to put myself in the water.

以及，我自己在水中 想要什么样的体验。

It's an expression as much as it is a physical activity.

冲浪是一项体育运动， 也是一种自我表达。

The draw may be because water is so elusive.

海水是如此令人难以捉摸， 也许这就是它吸引人的地方。

You can't fight it, you can't change it.

你没法对抗大海，也没法改变它。

The best I can do is recognize what it does.

唯一能做的就是去辨识它的动向，

The surf may be big and getting bigger

一个浪可能越来越大，

and surging while you're in the water.

当你在海上时，或许会突然汹涌。

The elements are changing.

海面因素在时刻变化着，

The wind is coming up.

可能要起风了。

You have to be in symbiosis with the environment.

你必须与这些环境因素共生。

You need to look and feel for everything

你需要观察，感受

that's happening around you.

所有在你周边发生的事情。

And yet, it's so short.

然而，这个过程很短暂。

Five, eight, 15 seconds.

只有 5、8、15 秒。

It's fleeting, but you have to go back to it.

虽然转瞬即逝， 但大海依然呼唤你回来。