How surfboards connect us to nature | Small Thing Big Idea, a TED series

Transcriber: TED Translators admin Reviewer: Krystian Aparta

譯者: Polly Chen 審譯者: Marssi Draw

Riding a wave is like suddenly gaining speed

衝浪就像是突然加速

and gliding at the same time.

然後同時滑行

Like walking on water, like flying.

像在水上行走、像飛翔

I think it's really about being one with a natural phenomenon.

其實就是與一個自然現象合而為一吧

[Small thing. Big idea.]

[小東西，大思維]

The surfboard requires a lot of ergonomic thinking.

衝浪板需要很多人體工學上的考量

How do I stand on it? How do I not slip off?

我要怎麼站在上面？要怎麼不滑倒？

But at the same time,

但同時

它又得真的能用在水上

it really has to work in that fluid environment.

It's really considered for the rider in some areas

衝浪板一定要同時考量到 衝浪者的許多面向

and for water and physics in others.

水流及物理學等等

A surfboard is made out of a core element

衝浪板主要是由一種 類似泡綿的成分所組成

which tends to be foam, which makes the board float,

因此才能讓板子浮起來

and the skin of the board is some kind of resin,

而板子的表面材質是樹脂

epoxy, sometimes fiberglass.

環氧樹脂，有時是玻璃纖維

There often is also a stringer,

通常衝浪板還會有一條縱樑

a wood piece down the middle,

也就是貫穿中央的木頭

which makes it stronger.

能增加衝浪板的強度

The rocker is the curvature of the board in the front.

板弧就是板頭的弧度

That is important because that determines

板弧相當重要

因為它決定你能衝什麼樣的浪

what kind of wave you will be able to take,

how steep the wave is.

能衝多高的浪

The tail affects performance.

板尾影響了衝浪表現

Different tails will make the board react differently,

不同的板尾會使衝浪板有不同的性能

so it's a lot about personal preference.

所以這和個人偏好比較有關

Our understanding of surfing

我們對於衝浪的了解

comes from when the Tahitians in 1200 AD brought it to Hawaii.

可追溯到公元前 1200 年 由大溪地人將衝浪帶入夏威夷

So when James Cook arrived around 1780,

大概在西元 1780 年 當庫克船長抵達夏威夷時

he was mesmerized by hundreds of people in the water,

他被海面上的景象所迷住了

children, women, men, surfing naked.

上百個男人、女人、小孩都裸體衝浪

Calvinist missionaries arrive

但隨著喀爾文教派的傳教士抵達

and they're scandalized by it.

衝浪被污名化

It becomes an illegal activity.

衝浪因此變成了違法活動

It becomes counterculture.

更成了一種次文化

The father of modern surfing is a Hawaiian named Duke Kahanamoku.

現代衝浪之父是一位夏威夷人 杜克·卡哈納莫庫 (Duke Kahanamoku)

He is an extraordinary swimmer,

他是位傑出的游泳健將

wins gold at the Olympics in 1912.

曾於西元 1912 年 贏得奧林匹克金牌

Goes around the world to show his swimming

他雖因游泳而周遊列國

but brings surfboards and demonstrates surfing.

但卻帶著衝浪板 向世人展示衝浪技術

Imagine, people had never seen surfing before.

試想，當時的人從未見過衝浪

Suddenly, some person from a faraway place

突然有個遠道而來的人

is standing on water, riding on water.

竟然站在水面上滑行

He comes back to Hawaii,

他回到夏威夷

and they start to make more boards.

並開始製作更多的衝浪板

Pre-Second World War,

二戰前

you're still looking at big, heavy wood boards.

你會看到又大、又笨重的木製衝浪板

Post-Second World War,

二戰後

new materials and new technologies become available,

有了新製材和新技術

and those make the board lighter, more accessible, cheaper,

因此衝浪板變得更輕 更容易入手、更便宜

but it continues to be a custom object,

但它仍是一個客製的東西

something that is made specifically for a person

是專門替某人或某個特定的衝浪地點

or for a certain spot.

所量身打造的

It's a very symbiotic relationship

衝浪者和製板人之間的關係

between surfer and shaper.

是共生共存的

There's so many different criteria

有太多不同的因素

that affect the physics of how that surfboard

會影響到衝浪板

is moving in water.

在水面上滑行的效能

A longboard is typically used on smaller waves.

例如，長板特別適合小浪

The riding has a lot of style.

駕乘的姿勢也有很多種

You can walk the board,

你可以走交叉步

put your toes over it, do a hang ten.

讓腳趾超過板頭，然後做板頭駕乘

A shortboard will be faster.

短板的速度會更快

They're harder to ride, they sink under the body.

更難駕乘，且浮力比人體還小

Board design comes at the intersection between those physical factors,

衝浪板設計即是在物理因素

and really, how I want to put myself in the water.

和使用者體驗之間取得交會點

It's an expression as much as it is a physical activity.

衝浪是一種表達方式 也是一項體能活動

The draw may be because water is so elusive.

海水是如此難以捉摸 也許這就是它吸引人之處

You can't fight it, you can't change it.

你不能反抗、改變大海

The best I can do is recognize what it does.

唯一能做的就是辨識它的動向

The surf may be big and getting bigger

浪也許會越來越大

and surging while you're in the water.

當你在海上時，也許會突然洶湧

The elements are changing.

海上因素隨時都在改變

The wind is coming up.

也許要起風了

You have to be in symbiosis with the environment.

你必須和整個環境是共生的

You need to look and feel for everything

你得眼觀四面的同時

that's happening around you.

也要感受所有在你身邊發生的事情

And yet, it's so short.

然而，這過程非常短暫

Five, eight, 15 seconds.

只有 5、8、15 秒

It's fleeting, but you have to go back to it.

雖然稍縱即逝 但是大海會呼喚你回來