How surfboards connect us to nature | Small Thing Big Idea, a TED series

Transcriber: TED Translators admin Reviewer: Krystian Aparta

Prevoditelj: Neda Vrkic Recezent: Sanda L

Riding a wave is like suddenly gaining speed

Jahati val je kao iznenada dobiti na brzini

and gliding at the same time.

i kliziti u isto vrijeme.

Like walking on water, like flying.

Kao hodati po vodi, kao letjeti.

I think it's really about being one with a natural phenomenon.

Mislim da se zapravo radi o stapanju s prirodnom pojavom.

[Small thing. Big idea.]

[Mala stvar. Velika ideja.]

The surfboard requires a lot of ergonomic thinking.

Daska za surfanje zahtijeva mnogo ergonomskog razmišljanja.

How do I stand on it? How do I not slip off?

Kako stojim na tome? Kako da ne skliznem?

But at the same time,

Ali u isto vrijeme

stvarno mora funkcionirati u tekućem okruženju.

it really has to work in that fluid environment.

It's really considered for the rider in some areas

Stvarno uzima u obzir jahača u nekim područjima

and for water and physics in others.

i vodu i fiziku u drugim.

A surfboard is made out of a core element

Daska za surfanje izrađena je od ključnog elementa

which tends to be foam, which makes the board float,

što je najčešće pjena, zbog čega daska pluta,

and the skin of the board is some kind of resin,

i obložena je nekom vrstom smole,

epoxy, sometimes fiberglass.

epoxy smolom, ponekad staklenim vlaknom.

There often is also a stringer,

Tu je često i uzdužna pruga,

a wood piece down the middle,

drveni komad na sredini,

which makes it stronger.

što je čini čvršćom.

The rocker is the curvature of the board in the front.

Rocker je krivina na prednjem dijelu daske.

That is important because that determines

To je važno jer to određuje

what kind of wave you will be able to take,

koju vrstu vala ćete moći podnijeti,

how steep the wave is.

koliko će val biti strm.

The tail affects performance.

Rep utječe na izvedbu.

Different tails will make the board react differently,

Različiti repovi će utjecati na različito reagiranje daske,

so it's a lot about personal preference.

tu se dosta radi o osobnom izboru.

Our understanding of surfing

Naše razumijevanje surfanja

comes from when the Tahitians in 1200 AD brought it to Hawaii.

potječe iz vremena kad su ga Tahićani 1200. po. Kr. prenijeli na Havaje.

So when James Cook arrived around 1780,

Dakle, kad je James Cook došao oko 1780.,

he was mesmerized by hundreds of people in the water,

bio je očaran stotinama ljudi u vodi,

children, women, men, surfing naked.

djecom, ženama, muškarcima, kako surfaju goli.

Calvinist missionaries arrive

Dolaze kalvinistički misionari

and they're scandalized by it.

i oni su zgroženi time.

It becomes an illegal activity.

To postaje ilegalna aktivnost.

It becomes counterculture.

To postaje kontrakultura.

The father of modern surfing is a Hawaiian named Duke Kahanamoku.

Otac modernog surfanja je Havajćanin imena Duke Kahanamoku.

He is an extraordinary swimmer,

Izvanredan je plivač,

wins gold at the Olympics in 1912.

osvaja zlato na Olimpijskim igrama 1912.

Goes around the world to show his swimming

Obilazi svijet da pokaže svoje plivanje,

but brings surfboards and demonstrates surfing.

ali nosi daske za surfanje i demonstrira surfanje.

Imagine, people had never seen surfing before.

Zamislite, ljudi nikad prije nisu vidjeli surfanje.

Suddenly, some person from a faraway place

Odjednom, neka osoba iz dalekog mjesta

is standing on water, riding on water.

stoji na vodi, jaše na vodi.

He comes back to Hawaii,

Vrati se na Havaje

and they start to make more boards.

i počnu proizvoditi više daski.

Pre-Second World War,

Prije Drugog svjetskog rata

you're still looking at big, heavy wood boards.

još uvijek gledate velike, teške, drvene daske.

Post-Second World War,

Nakon Drugog svjetskog rata

new materials and new technologies become available,

novi materijali i nove tehnologije postaju dostupne

and those make the board lighter, more accessible, cheaper,

i te čine daske lakšima, dostupnijima, jeftinijima,

but it continues to be a custom object,

ali je i dalje predmet po mjeri,

something that is made specifically for a person

nešto što je napravljeno posebno za osobu

or for a certain spot.

ili za određeno mjesto.

It's a very symbiotic relationship

To je vrlo simbiozan odnos

between surfer and shaper.

između surfera i oblikovatelja.

There's so many different criteria

Postoji mnogo različitih kriterija

that affect the physics of how that surfboard

koji utječu na fiziku toga kako se daska za surfanje

is moving in water.

kreće u vodi.

A longboard is typically used on smaller waves.

Dugačka daska obično se koristi na manjim valovima.

The riding has a lot of style.

Jahanje ima mnogo stila.

You can walk the board,

Možete hodati po dasci,

put your toes over it, do a hang ten.

staviti prste preko nje, držati se tamo.

A shortboard will be faster.

Kratka daska će biti brža.

They're harder to ride, they sink under the body.

Teže su za jahanje, potonu pod tijelom.

Board design comes at the intersection between those physical factors,

Dizajn daske dolazi na sjecište između tih fizičkih čimbenika

and really, how I want to put myself in the water.

i zapravo, kako se želim postaviti u vodi.

It's an expression as much as it is a physical activity.

To je izražavanje koliko je i fizička aktivnost.

The draw may be because water is so elusive.

Do izjednačavanja dolazi jer je voda tako neuhvatljiva.

You can't fight it, you can't change it.

Ne možete se boriti protiv nje, ne možete je promijeniti.

The best I can do is recognize what it does.

Najbolje što mogu je prepoznati što čini.

The surf may be big and getting bigger

Val može biti velik i postajati većim

and surging while you're in the water.

i naglo se povećati dok ste u vodi.

The elements are changing.

Elementi se mijenjaju.

The wind is coming up.

Vjetar dolazi.

Morate biti u simbiozi s okolinom.

You have to be in symbiosis with the environment.

You need to look and feel for everything

Morate gledati i osjećati sve

that's happening around you.

što se događa oko vas.

And yet, it's so short.

A ipak, traje tako kratko.

Five, eight, 15 seconds.

Pet, osam, 15 sekundi.

It's fleeting, but you have to go back to it.

Brz je, ali morate mu se vratiti.