The Secret Ingredients of Great Hospitality | Will Guidara | TED

翻译人员: Yip Yan Yeung 校对人员: Grace Man

For nearly a decade,

在这将近十年里，

I owned and operated a restaurant called Eleven Madison Park.

我拥有并运营着一家

名为“麦迪逊公园十一号” （Eleven Madison Park）的餐厅。

To give you some context, if you don't know what that is,

如果你不知道这家餐厅， 我可以给你介绍一些背景信息，

Eleven Madison is a very fancy restaurant

麦迪逊公园十一号 是一家奢华餐厅，

on the corner of 24th and Madison here in New York City.

坐落于纽约 24 街 与麦迪逊大道的交叉路口。

I mean, like very fancy.

非常非常奢华。

We're talking servers wearing suits and ties,

服务员穿着西装、打着领带，

like, crisp, ironed white tablecloths.

熨烫平整的洁白桌布。

More than 30 cooks in the kitchen serving like 10-, 15-course tasting menus.

超过 30 名厨师在厨房里忙于制作 10 道菜、15 道菜的品尝菜单。

I think you get the gist.

我觉得你已经懂了。

When I got there in 2006, it was kind of a middling brasserie.

2006 年，我来到这家餐厅时， 它就是个中档小餐馆。

But by the time I sold it at the beginning of 2020,

但是 2020 年初 我出售这家餐厅时，

it had been named the number one restaurant in the world.

它已经名列世界餐厅之首。

(Applause)

（掌声）

Now, to be clear,

我想澄清一点，

our kitchen served unbelievably delicious and incredibly innovative food.

我们的厨房出品珍馐美馔， 也极具创新性。

Our service was so gracious

我们的服务会让你感到宾至如归，

and as close to technically perfect as possible.

无懈可击。

And our dining room ...

我们的餐厅……

I mean, just Google a picture.

上网搜张图片看看吧。

It's one of the most beautiful out there.

绝对是最漂亮的餐厅之一。

And it was because of those reasons that we were consistently on the list

以上的原因让我们持续位列

of the 50 best restaurants in the world.

世界最佳 50 家餐厅之中。

But it was a hot dog that earned us the number one spot on that list.

一个热狗让我们夺得桂冠。

Or rather, the winning strategy that it gave birth to:

或者说，是它带来的决胜策略：

unreasonable hospitality.

不遗余力的好客之道。

The principle that guided us as we took ordinary transactions

它指引着我们 将一单单普通的交易

and turned them into extraordinary experiences.

转变成一次次令人难忘的体验。

In early 2010,

2010 年初，

on a busier-than-normal lunch service,

比平常忙碌的午市，

I was in the dining room helping out the servers

我在餐厅里帮服务员打下手，

when I found myself clearing appetizers from a table of four foodies

为四位来纽约度假的美食爱好者 收拾开胃菜的餐盘。

on vacation to New York.

And they were going to the airport to head back home after their meal.

他们打算在饭后前往机场回家。

I overheard them talking.

我偶然间听到了他们的对话。

"What an amazing trip.

“多好的旅途啊。

We've been to all the best restaurants."

我们跑遍了最好的餐厅。”

And they listed a bunch:

然后他们说了一堆：

“Per Se, Le Bernardin, Daniel, Momofuku, now Eleven Madison Park.”

“Per Se，Le Bernardin，Momofuku， 现在我们来了麦迪逊公园十一号。”

Then another person jumped in:

另一个人插话道：

"Yeah, but the only thing we didn't get to try was a New York City hotdog."

“没错，但是我们 没去尝一尝纽约的热狗。”

You know those moments in a cartoon

想象一下动画片里，

where the animated light bulb goes off over the character's head,

卡通灯泡在角色头顶亮了起来，

signifying they're about to come up with a really good idea?

意思是他们想到了 一个超棒的点子。

If you’d been in the room with me that day,

如果那天你和我一起在餐厅里，

you would have seen one appear over mine.

你就会看到 我头顶就有这么一个灯泡。

As calmly as I possibly could,

我极力保持淡定，

I walked gracefully back into the kitchen, dropped off the plates,

优雅地走回厨房，放下盘子，

and then literally ran out the front door and down the block to the hotdog cart.

飞奔出前门， 冲向下个路口的热狗餐车。

I bought a hotdog and ran just as fast back into the kitchen.

我买了个热狗，又飞奔回厨房。

Now came the hard part:

难题来了：

convincing the chef to serve it in our fancy fine dining restaurant.

说服大厨在我们 这奢华高档的餐厅供应热狗。

Guys, he looked at me like I'd lost my mind.

他像看着疯子一样看着我。

Serving what New Yorkers call "a dirty water dog"

在一家四星高档餐厅 供应纽约人口中的“脏水热狗”？

in a fancy four-star restaurant?

But I asked him to trust me

但是我让他相信我，

and I told him it was important to me.

我告诉他， 这对我来说非常重要。

And eventually he agreed to cut the hotdog up into four perfect pieces,

最终，他答应把热狗 切成方方正正的四块，

adding a little swish of ketchup and a swish of mustard onto each plate

每盘加一抹番茄酱， 加一抹芥末酱，

and finishing them with a quenelle of sauerkraut and a quenelle of relish.

再加上一小簇酸菜和酸黄瓜酱。

Then, before we served at the table their final savory course --

在我们端上最后一道主菜之前，

which happened to be a honey-lavender glazed Muscovy duck

即干式熟成两周番鸭 佐蜂蜜薰衣草酱，

that had been dry aged for two weeks,

utilizing a technique that had taken years to perfect --

而干式熟成需要多年精进，

we brought them their hot dog.

我们端上了热狗。

I introduced it.

我介绍了一下。

"To make sure you don't go home with any culinary regrets,

”为了让你们不要带着 没吃成某些美食的悔恨踏上归途，

a New York City hotdog."

来尝尝纽约热狗吧。”

Guys, they freaked out.

他们目瞪口呆。

(Laughter)

（笑声）

I'm not kidding.

我没在开玩笑。

At that point in my career, I had served thousands of dishes and many, many,

在我职业生涯的那个节点， 我已经端上了上千道菜，

many thousands of dollars worth of food.

价值上万美元的食物。

And I can confidently say that no one had ever reacted to anything I served them

我可以自信地说， 没有人有过像他们

better than they reacted to that hotdog.

看到热狗时那样的反应。

Each person said it was not only the highlight of their meal,

两个人都说，这不仅仅是 他们这顿饭的亮点，

but of their entire trip to New York,

也是纽约之行的亮点，

and they'd be telling the story for the rest of their lives.

这会成为他们 接下来人生中的谈资。

See, that hotdog changed the way I approach restaurants

看看，这个热狗从这一瞬间 改变了我运营餐厅的方式。

from that point forward.

Because up until then, I had been so focused on excellence,

在此之前，我一直心无旁骛地 扑在餐品的尽善尽美上，

on all the little details that go into making a meal great,

死抠每一个细节， 让这顿饭完美无瑕，

that I somehow hadn’t realized something really important:

但是忽略了至关重要的一点：

That in restaurants,

对于一个餐厅来说，

our reason for being is to make people feel seen.

我们存在的价值就是 让人们感到他们被用心关注了。

It's to make them feel welcome.

让人们感到自己受到了款待。

It's to give them a sense of belonging.

让人们感受到归属感。

See, in restaurants, the food, the service, the design,

餐厅里的食物、服务、设计，

they're simply ingredients in the recipe of human connection.

这些都只是人际联结的 一个组成部分。

That is hospitality.

这就是好客之道。

And I realized,

我意识到，

if we could be unreasonable in our pursuit of that,

如果我们不遗余力地 追求好客之道，

we could give people the kind of experiences

我们就能给我们的顾客带来

they would remember forever.

永世难忘的体验。

It was only then that I realized

在那个瞬间，我才意识到

I wasn't actually in the business of serving people dinner.

我的工作并不是给人们送上美食。

I was in the business of serving them memories.

我的工作是给人们留下回忆。

I obsessed over that hot dog.

我沉迷于这个热狗带来的体验。

I kept on going back to the experience

我反复回味，

and trying to figure out what happened [so] that the whole thing went down,

试图理解它是如何发生的，

what happened so that it could happen and what needed to happen

如何能让它再次发生， 我们需要做一些什么

so that it could start happening all the time.

才能让它源源不断地出现。

First, being present.

首先，活在当下。

Which I get, it's like, kind of overused these days.

虽然这个词最近有点用烂了。

But for me, being present means caring so much about the thing you're doing

但是对我来说，活在当下的意思是 关心你正在做的事，

or the person you're with

关心你身边的人，

that you stop caring about all the other things you need to do.

不要费心思 关心别的需要做的事。

And it's essential in delivering unreasonable hospitality.

这对于达成不遗余力的好客之道 是至关重要的。

See, so often we have such long to-do lists

我们常常手边有太多的待办事项，

that we aren't able to slow down enough

都没时间放慢脚步

to actually listen to the people around us,

真正去聆听我们身边人的声音，

to the things they're saying

聆听他们说出口的话

and all the things they're not saying.

和没有说出口的话。

If I hadn't been present at that table,

如果我没有到那张桌子旁边，

I never would have heard that throwaway line about the hot dog.

我就不会听到他们 关于热狗的随口一说。

Second, it required taking what you do seriously

第二，要重视你所做的事，

without taking yourself too seriously.

而不是太把自己当一回事。

Way too often in customer service businesses,

常常出现在 客户服务行业的一种情况是

we let these self-imposed standards get in the way of us giving our customers

我们把一些自以为是的标准 强加于顾客，

the thing they actually want.

而没有给他们真正想要的东西。

OK, a hotdog in a four-star restaurant is sacrilegious.

四星餐厅里有一道热狗， 也太离谱了。

But look at the way it made them feel.

但是，看看这给顾客 带来了怎样的感受。

And third, it required the acknowledgment that if what you're trying to do

第三，我们需要确认 我们要做的事

is give people a sense of genuine belonging,

有没有给人们带来真正的归属感，

one size fits one.

量身打造而不是一刀切。

Hospitality is about making people feel seen.

好客之道在于 让人们感觉受到了关注。

And the best way to do that is not to treat them like a commodity,

最佳方式就是不要把他们当作商品，

but as a unique individual.

而是独特的个体。

I really do believe I could have comped that table a bottle of vintage champagne

我觉得如果我给他们送上 一瓶上好的年份香槟，

and given them a free bucket of caviar,

赠送一桶鱼子酱，

and it would not have had the same impact as that two-dollar hotdog.

也无法达成那价值两美元的热狗 所能产生的效果。

Because it would not have been specific to them.

因为那不是为他们量身定制的。

The hot dog had given us a new true north.

这个热狗为我们指明了新方向。

And now we had a road map.

我们现在有了清晰的路线。

I started talking about it constantly at staff meetings,

我在员工大会上 会时常说到这件事，

telling the team what led to the gesture

告诉员工们为什么会这样，

and encouraging them to go out into the dining room

鼓励他们走进餐厅，

to find opportunities of their own.

自己去寻找机会。

And they were just as fired up as I was.

他们和我一样兴致勃勃。

And we got started right away.

我们立马开干了。

Every night, finding a few really cool experiences

我们每晚都要探索出 一些超酷的体验，

to deliver to our guests.

带给我们的顾客。

We had unlocked something important.

我们发现了一些重要之事。

We knew it was working,

我们知道这真的有效果，

but we wanted more of it.

但是我们还想要更多。

We wanted to give these kinds of things to almost everyone.

我们想把这些体验 尽可能带给每个人。

We wanted to make it a bigger part of our culture.

我们希望这能成为我们文化中 更重要的一部分。

And we recognized that we needed to invest

我们意识到，这需要我们

in the resources to make that possible.

加大对帮助实现 这一点的资源的投入。

So, we added a position to the team,

所以，我们在团队里 增加了一个岗位，

someone whose only responsibility was to help everyone else

这个同事只负责 实现其他人的想法。

bring their ideas to life.

We called the position the Dream Weaver,

我们称之为“织梦人”，

named after the iconic song by Gary Wright.

名字来源于加里·赖特 （Gary Wright）的著名歌曲。

You've heard it, even if you don't think you have.

就算你以为自己没听过这首歌， 你也肯定听过。

I'll help you.

我来帮你。

It goes something like, (sings) Ooh, dream weaver.

歌词就是 （唱歌）哦，织梦人。

(Laughter)

（笑声）

Oh, sorry --

哦，不好意思。

(Applause)

（掌声）

I just had to sing it

我得唱出来，

because that song is actually pretty important to me,

因为这首歌对我来说非常重要，

it was playing the first time I kissed a girl.

我在初吻的时候就在放这首歌。

It will now be stuck in your head for the rest of the day, you're welcome.

接下来整天你就得被这首歌洗脑了。 不客气。

And with the addition of that position,

有了这个岗位的加持，

we were on fire.

我们干得热火朝天。

Sincerely, a guest warned us in advance

一位客人提前慎重地告诉我们，

that his dad was more of a Budweiser steak-and-potatoes kind of guy

他的父亲是喝啤酒的 “下里巴人”类型，

than Sauternes and foie gras,

而不是喝红酒的“阳春白雪”类型，

so the Dream Weavers turned our fancy champagne cart

所以我们的织梦人没有 推来香槟车，

into a Budweiser cart,

而是推来了啤酒车，

filled with every available type of Budweiser

装满了应有尽有的 百威啤酒品种，

at every bodega in the neighborhood.

搜罗了附近的所有酒窖。

(Laughter)

（笑声）

A couple came in to console themselves

一对情侣来到我们餐厅， 为了抚慰一下他们

after their beach vacation flight was canceled.

因海边度假航班惨遭取消 而受伤的心灵。

So at the end of their meal,

在这餐接近尾声之时，

we turned our private dining room into their very own private beach

我们把这间包间 变成了他们的私人海滩，

with reclining folding chairs, a ton of sand on the ground,

放上躺椅， 地上撒上一大堆沙子，

and a kiddie pool filled with water they could dip their feet into

放上一个充气水池， 让他们可以在嬉水的同时

while they drowned their sorrows over tropical mai tais

用热带迈泰鸡尾酒和小伞

with those little umbrellas.

冲淡他们的悲伤。

Or a family of four from Spain was in the restaurant.

来自西班牙的一家四口 来到了我们的餐厅。

They were in New York on vacation.

他们是来纽约度假的。

And while they were eating, the most beautiful thing happened.

用餐途中， 一件美妙至极的事发生了。

The kids were looking out our massive windows with wonder.

孩子们惊奇地眺望着 我们巨型的玻璃窗外。

It had started snowing

开始下雪了，

and it was the first time they'd ever seen real snow.

而且这是他们第一次见到真雪。

The Dream Weaver found a store

织梦人在这星期五的夜晚

that was open at eight o’clock on a Friday night.

找到了一家晚上八点还开着的店。

When they left the restaurant,

在他们离开餐厅的时候，

there was a chauffeur-driven SUV waiting to take them to Central Park

司机开着 SUV 在门口等着他们， 准备带他们去中央公园

for the most special nightcap:

为这一晚增添一抹亮色：

a few hours of play in the freshly fallen snow.

在这刚刚落下的 雪地里畅玩几个小时。

With these gestures and so many more,

有了这些别致的体验，

our guests were obviously happier than ever,

我们的客人们明显更满意了，

but you know what?

但是你知道吗？

This is the cool part, so was our team.

重点是我们的员工也很高兴。

Because for the first time, they had creative autonomy.

因为这是他们第一次有了 发挥创意的自由。

They were no longer just helping to execute someone else's vision,

他们不再只是执行别人的想法，

serving plates of food someone else had created.

端上别人制作的食物。

They were coming up with their own ideas,

他们有了自己的点子，

and those ideas were affecting the guest experience.

而这些点子会影响到顾客体验。

They were empowered.

他们有了更多的自主权。

But mostly,

但是大部分的原因是

I mean, we were all just happy

我们只是因为 为别人带来了喜悦而喜悦。

because we were making other people really, really happy.

There are few things more energizing than seeing the look of complete joy

没有什么比看到 收到你负责送出的礼物时

on someone's face when they receive a gift

人们脸上的欣喜若狂 更振奋人心的了，

that you are responsible for giving.

It can become one of the most beautiful addictions.

这美妙的感觉太让人沉醉了。

And as we all found ourselves quickly becoming addicted

在我们发现自己迅速对

to going above and beyond for our guests,

让我们的顾客心满意足、 超出预期上瘾时，

we found ourselves going above and beyond for one another as well.

我们自己也在 齐头并进、共同进步。

Now I'm going to say this because I'm sure some people are thinking it:

我现在要说的一点，我相信 大家的脑海里也是这么想的：

unreasonable hospitality is not just for fancy restaurants.

不遗余力的好客之道 不仅仅是高档餐厅该有的品质。

I get it, some of the gestures I just described

我懂你的意思， 我刚说的一些行为

were quite extravagant.

确实非常铺张浪费。

We did hire people onto the team to help us execute them more consistently.

我们确实招了一些人， 让这些服务的质量更加一致。

But remember, that hotdog only cost two dollars,

但是记住，那个热狗 只花了我们两美元，

and the impact it had was priceless.

但它产生的效果是无价之宝。

It does not take a big budget to start infusing this into your culture,

把这种思想纳入你们的文化 并不会花你很多钱，

because remember, it's not the cost of the gesture that matters.

因为请记住， 这些行为的成本不重要。

It's how it makes people feel.

它们给人们带来的感受 才是最重要的。

For most of America's history, we were a manufacturing economy.

美国历史上的大部分时间 采用的都是制造经济。

Now we're a service economy and dramatically so.

我们现在正在大步迈向服务经济。

More than three quarters of our GDP is driven by service industries.

我们国家超过四分之三的 GDP 由服务产业驱动。

Globally, it's more than 65 percent.

从全球来看，要超过 65%。

That means that whether you're in real estate

意味着无论你从事房地产、

or retail or construction

零售、建筑施工、

or finance or insurance or computer services,

金融、保险还是计算机服务行业，

you do the same thing for a living that I do.

我们谋生的方式都是一样的。

You’re in the business of serving other people.

你的工作就是服务他人。

And if you start to look closely enough,

如果你仔细观察，

you will find opportunities for unreasonable hospitality,

你会发现一些不遗余力 发挥好客之道的机会，

to give people more than they could ever possibly expect

完全突破人们的期待和想象。

all around you.

Take real estate agents, for example.

我们拿房地产中介举个例子。

Every time I've bought or rented a new apartment,

每次我购置或者租赁 一间新公寓的时候，

at best, the agent has left me a bottle of sparkling wine in the fridge

最好的情况是中介在冰箱里 给我留了一瓶气泡酒，

as my thank you/congratulations gift.

作为感谢礼或者贺礼。

At worst, they've just thrown the keys on the kitchen counter.

最差的情况是直接 把钥匙丢在厨房台面上。

Now, this is someone with whom I've spent weeks, if not months,

这可是和我共度了不说几个月， 至少好几周，

looking together for my new home.

一起寻找新家的人。

If they've been paying attention,

如果他们真的留心了，

they should know every intimate detail of my life.

就该对我生活的 点点滴滴了如指掌。

So imagine instead, if the first time my wife and I walked

想象一下，我和我的太太 第一次走进

into the apartment that we ended up choosing,

我们选好的房子，

they overheard her talking about the nook

中介悄悄听见她说 她想要一个幽静的角落，

she imagined herself doing yoga every morning.

想每天早上在那里做瑜伽。

And when we moved in,

我们搬进去的时候，

instead of that obligatory bottle of bubbles,

中介没有送上一瓶 例行公事的气泡酒，

in that nook was a brand new yoga mat with a candle and a note that said

而是在那个小角落放上 一块崭新的瑜伽垫，旁边放着蜡烛

"Welcome to your new home."

和小纸条，写着： “欢迎来到你的新家。”

I think that would be pretty cool.

想想也觉得太棒了吧。

And compared to the average commission,

比起普通的中介费，

it's a pretty insignificant investment

这只是一点小小的投资，

in what will inevitably become a lifelong relationship.

但是可以建立长久的良好关系。

This is not rocket science.

这不是什么深奥的天文地理。

It just requires caring a little bit more

它只需要多那么一点点关心，

and trying a little bit harder.

多那么一点点努力。

Being present,

活在当下，

not taking yourself too seriously

别太把自己当回事，

and remembering that one size fits one.

为每个人量身定做。

Just go with me here.

和我一起想象一下。

Imagine if the person that checked you into the dentist's office

把你带进牙医诊室的工作人员 是这么想的。

started thinking like this.

Imagine if the person that sold you your next car started thinking like this.

卖给你下一辆车的销售人员 也是这么想的。

Or better yet, imagine if everyone on your entire team

更有甚者，你整个团队

started thinking like this.

都开始这么想了。

Because making good products, it's no longer enough.

因为打造好产品 是不够的。

Serving them efficiently is no longer enough.

高效服务也是不够的。

It's how we make people feel that matters most of all.

我们给人们带来的感受 才是最重要的。

Because I believe we are on the precipice of becoming a hospitality economy.

因为我觉得我们离“好客经济” 只差临门一脚。

Listen, unreasonable hospitality helped my restaurant

不遗余力的好客之道 促使我的餐厅

accomplish every single one of our goals,

达成了每一个目标，

and it turned the people I worked with

把我的同事们

from a collection of individuals into a trusting team,

从一群松散个体的集合 变成了值得信赖的团队，

unlocking a collective creativity and capacity

集体迸发出前所未有的 创意和工作能力。

we had never experienced before.

So the next time you find yourself pursuing a relationship

下一次如果你想和

with someone you work with or someone you serve,

你的同事或者服务的对象 建立关系，

I'm just here to encourage you to try being a little bit more unreasonable.

我建议你可以 试着做一些出格的事情。

(Laughter)

（笑声）

Give people that sense of belonging.

给人们带来归属感。

Give them a memory that can last a lifetime.

带来永世难忘的回忆。

It will transform your business.

这会改变你的生意。

But I can also promise you this.

我也可以向你承诺。

It will make you and all the people around you

这会让你和你身边的所有人

feel really, really, really good.

感觉相当、相当、相当良好。

Thank you.

谢谢。

(Applause and cheers)

（掌声、欢呼声）