The Secret Ingredients of Great Hospitality | Will Guidara | TED

譯者: Lilian Chiu 審譯者: Shelley Tsang 曾雯海

For nearly a decade,

我擁有和經營「麥迪遜公園 十一號」這間餐廳近十年了。

I owned and operated a restaurant called Eleven Madison Park.

To give you some context, if you don't know what that is,

先給不知道這間餐廳的人 一些背景資訊：

麥迪遜公園十一號 是間非常高檔的餐廳，

Eleven Madison is a very fancy restaurant

on the corner of 24th and Madison here in New York City.

位在紐約市二十四街 和麥迪遜大道的路口，

I mean, like very fancy.

它真的很高檔。

We're talking servers wearing suits and ties,

服務人員穿西裝打領帶，

like, crisp, ironed white tablecloths.

純白色燙平的桌布。

More than 30 cooks in the kitchen serving like 10-, 15-course tasting menus.

廚房中有超過三十位廚師，提供 十、十五道可口菜餚的菜單。

I think you get the gist.

我想你懂我的意思。

When I got there in 2006, it was kind of a middling brasserie.

2006 年我到那裡時， 它只是間普通的啤酒店。

But by the time I sold it at the beginning of 2020,

但 2020 年初我把它賣掉時，

it had been named the number one restaurant in the world.

它已經有了世界第一名餐廳的稱號。

（掌聲）

(Applause)

Now, to be clear,

讓我說清楚，我們的廚房供應

our kitchen served unbelievably delicious and incredibly innovative food.

好到吃到難以置信 且非常創新的食物。

Our service was so gracious

我們的服務相當親切，

and as close to technically perfect as possible.

且盡可能在技術上做到最完美。

And our dining room ...

而我們的用餐間，

I mean, just Google a picture.

上網搜尋照片就知道，

It's one of the most beautiful out there.

是世界上最美的用餐間之一。

And it was because of those reasons that we were consistently on the list

因為這些理由，

我們一直都名列在世界上 最棒的五十間餐廳名單上。

of the 50 best restaurants in the world.

But it was a hot dog that earned us the number one spot on that list.

但，是熱狗讓我們爬到名單第一名。

Or rather, the winning strategy that it gave birth to:

或者該說，是從熱狗 產生出來的致勝策略：

unreasonable hospitality.

超乎情理的好客。

The principle that guided us as we took ordinary transactions

這條原則引導著我們， 讓我們把平凡的交易

and turned them into extraordinary experiences.

轉變為不凡的經歷。

In early 2010,

2010 年初，在一次比平常 還忙的午餐準備過程中，

on a busier-than-normal lunch service,

I was in the dining room helping out the servers

我在用餐間協助服務人員，

when I found myself clearing appetizers from a table of four foodies

我幫一桌客人收拾開胃菜時， 得知他們是四位美食家，

on vacation to New York.

他們到紐約渡假。

And they were going to the airport to head back home after their meal.

他們吃完之後就要前往機場返家了。

I overheard them talking.

我偶然聽見他們說：

"What an amazing trip.

「好棒的一趟旅行，我們 去了所有最棒的餐廳。」

We've been to all the best restaurants."

And they listed a bunch:

他們列了一堆：

“Per Se, Le Bernardin, Daniel, Momofuku, now Eleven Madison Park.”

「Per Se、Le Bernardin、 Daniel、Momofuku，

現在是麥迪遜公園十一號。

Then another person jumped in:

接著，另一個人插口：「對， 但我們就是沒嚐到紐約熱狗。」

"Yeah, but the only thing we didn't get to try was a New York City hotdog."

You know those moments in a cartoon

各位應該看過卡通中角色 頭上會有個動畫燈泡亮起，

where the animated light bulb goes off over the character's head,

signifying they're about to come up with a really good idea?

表示他們接下來要提出 一個很棒的點子？

如果那天你也在場，就會 看到我頭上出現了一個。

If you’d been in the room with me that day,

you would have seen one appear over mine.

我盡可能保持冷靜， 優雅地走回廚房，

As calmly as I possibly could,

I walked gracefully back into the kitchen, dropped off the plates,

放下盤子，真的是衝出前門， 跑去街上的熱狗餐車。

and then literally ran out the front door and down the block to the hotdog cart.

I bought a hotdog and ran just as fast back into the kitchen.

我買了一份熱狗，再衝回廚房。

Now came the hard part:

困難的部分來了：

convincing the chef to serve it in our fancy fine dining restaurant.

說服主廚在我們這個精緻 頂級的餐廳裡做這道菜。

Guys, he looked at me like I'd lost my mind.

各位，他看我的眼神 好像覺得我瘋了。

Serving what New Yorkers call "a dirty water dog"

在頂級的四星餐廳裡端出 紐約客所謂的「餐車熱狗」？

in a fancy four-star restaurant?

But I asked him to trust me

但我請他相信我，

and I told him it was important to me.

我告訴他，這對我很重要。

And eventually he agreed to cut the hotdog up into four perfect pieces,

最後，他同意將那根熱狗 切成完美的四份，

adding a little swish of ketchup and a swish of mustard onto each plate

幫每一盤加上一點 蕃茄醬和一點芥末，

and finishing them with a quenelle of sauerkraut and a quenelle of relish.

再用一球泡菜和一些佐料收尾。

Then, before we served at the table their final savory course --

接著，在我們把最後一道 可口菜餚端上那桌之前——

which happened to be a honey-lavender glazed Muscovy duck

最後一道菜剛好是 麝香鴨佐蜂蜜薰衣草，

that had been dry aged for two weeks,

用花了數年才做到完美的技術 乾式熟成了兩個星期——

utilizing a technique that had taken years to perfect --

we brought them their hot dog.

我們先把熱狗帶給他們。

I introduced it.

我介紹了這道菜：

"To make sure you don't go home with any culinary regrets,

「為了確保你們不會帶著 任何烹飪上的遺憾回家，

a New York City hotdog."

請享用紐約市熱狗。」

Guys, they freaked out.

各位，

他們神魂顛倒了。

(Laughter)

（笑聲）

I'm not kidding.

我沒開玩笑，那時， 我做那一行已經出過

At that point in my career, I had served thousands of dishes and many, many,

數千道菜，以及價值 成千上萬美金的食物。

many thousands of dollars worth of food.

And I can confidently say that no one had ever reacted to anything I served them

我可以很有信心地說，沒有人 對我端出的食物所做的反應

better than they reacted to that hotdog.

比得上他們對那熱狗的反應。

Each person said it was not only the highlight of their meal,

他們都說它不只是這餐中，更是 整趟紐約行中的最棒的部分，

but of their entire trip to New York,

and they'd be telling the story for the rest of their lives.

且他們將來都會不斷訴說這個故事。

See, that hotdog changed the way I approach restaurants

從那次之後，熱狗就改變了 我經營餐廳的方式。

from that point forward.

Because up until then, I had been so focused on excellence,

因為在那之前， 我全心專注在做到卓越，

on all the little details that go into making a meal great,

著重讓餐點出色的所有細節，

that I somehow hadn’t realized something really important:

不知怎麼的，我都沒有 了解一件很重要的事，

That in restaurants,

那就是，在餐廳，

our reason for being is to make people feel seen.

我們存在的目的

是要讓大家覺得被看見，

It's to make them feel welcome.

是讓他們覺得被歡迎，

It's to give them a sense of belonging.

是讓他們有歸屬感。

See, in restaurants, the food, the service, the design,

要知道，在餐廳裡，食物、

服務、設計，

they're simply ingredients in the recipe of human connection.

它們都只是原料，

人際連結食譜中的原料。

That is hospitality.

那就是好客。

And I realized,

我了解到，如果我們在追求 好客上可以做到超乎情理，

if we could be unreasonable in our pursuit of that,

we could give people the kind of experiences

我們就能帶給大家永生難忘的經歷。

they would remember forever.

It was only then that I realized

到那時我才了解，我其實不是 在做提供客人晚餐的事業。

I wasn't actually in the business of serving people dinner.

I was in the business of serving them memories.

我是在做提供他們回憶的事業。

I obsessed over that hot dog.

我念念不忘那熱狗。

I kept on going back to the experience

我不斷回想那段經歷，試圖 搞懂是什麼原因促成那件事，

and trying to figure out what happened [so] that the whole thing went down,

是什麼讓它發生的？

what happened so that it could happen and what needed to happen

必須要有什麼條件， 才能讓它不斷發生？

so that it could start happening all the time.

First, being present.

第一，活在當下。

Which I get, it's like, kind of overused these days.

我知道，這說法已經被濫用了，但，

But for me, being present means caring so much about the thing you're doing

對我而言，活在當下 意味著要非常關心

你正在做的事情或和你在一起的人，

or the person you're with

that you stop caring about all the other things you need to do.

關心到你都不去關注 其他你需要做的事情了。

And it's essential in delivering unreasonable hospitality.

要傳遞超乎情理的好客， 這點是必要的。

See, so often we have such long to-do lists

通常，我們都有很長 很長的待辦事項清單，

that we aren't able to slow down enough

讓我們無法慢下腳步，

去真正傾聽我們身邊的人，

to actually listen to the people around us,

to the things they're saying

聆聽他們所說的話，

and all the things they're not saying.

以及他們沒說的話。

If I hadn't been present at that table,

如果服務那桌時我心不在焉，

I never would have heard that throwaway line about the hot dog.

我就不可能聽到他們 隨口提到熱狗的事。

Second, it required taking what you do seriously

第二，

需要嚴肅看待你做的事，

without taking yourself too seriously.

但不要用太嚴肅的態度。

Way too often in customer service businesses,

在客服事業中太常見到的現象是

we let these self-imposed standards get in the way of us giving our customers

我們讓這些自己強加的標準 阻擋了我們給予我們的客戶

the thing they actually want.

他們真正想要的。

OK, a hotdog in a four-star restaurant is sacrilegious.

好，四星餐廳裡 出現熱狗實在太褻瀆。

But look at the way it made them feel.

但看看熱狗讓他們有什麼感受。

And third, it required the acknowledgment that if what you're trying to do

第三，需要知道你在試圖做的事情是

給人一種真實的歸屬感，

is give people a sense of genuine belonging,

one size fits one.

不是均碼，是一人一碼。

Hospitality is about making people feel seen.

好客的重點是讓人覺得被看見。

And the best way to do that is not to treat them like a commodity,

要做到這點，最好的做法 不是把他們當商品來對待，

but as a unique individual.

而是獨一無二的個體。

I really do believe I could have comped that table a bottle of vintage champagne

我真心相信，我本來可以 招待那桌一瓶上等紅酒

and given them a free bucket of caviar,

再給他們一罐免費的魚子醬，

and it would not have had the same impact as that two-dollar hotdog.

不過衝擊力不會如 那兩塊錢美金的熱狗，

因為對他們而言沒有特殊性。

Because it would not have been specific to them.

The hot dog had given us a new true north.

熱狗讓我們找到新的真正方向。

And now we had a road map.

而現在我們有了行車地圖。

I started talking about it constantly at staff meetings,

我開始在員工會議上常常談它，

telling the team what led to the gesture

告訴團隊是什麼導致 好客能夠被傳遞，

and encouraging them to go out into the dining room

並鼓勵他們進到用餐間 去找到他們自己的機會。

to find opportunities of their own.

And they were just as fired up as I was.

而他們跟我一樣激動。

And we got started right away.

我們馬上開始。

Every night, finding a few really cool experiences

每晚，都找到一些真的很酷的 體驗來傳遞給我們的客人。

to deliver to our guests.

We had unlocked something important.

我們解鎖了某樣重要的東西。

We knew it was working,

我們知道它行得通，

but we wanted more of it.

但我們還想要更多。

We wanted to give these kinds of things to almost everyone.

我們希望幾乎每個人 都能有這種體驗。

我們想讓它成為我們 文化中更大的一部分。

We wanted to make it a bigger part of our culture.

And we recognized that we needed to invest

我們知道，我們得要 投資資源才有可能辦到。

in the resources to make that possible.

So, we added a position to the team,

所以，

我們在團隊中增加了一個職位，

someone whose only responsibility was to help everyone else

這個人只有一項職責， 就是協助所有其他人

bring their ideas to life.

實現他們的想法。

We called the position the Dream Weaver,

這個職位的職稱叫織夢者，

named after the iconic song by Gary Wright.

名稱來自蓋瑞‧賴特的名曲。

You've heard it, even if you don't think you have.

你一定聽過，即使你覺得你沒有。

I'll help you.

我來幫你想起來。

It goes something like, (sings) Ooh, dream weaver.

是這樣唱的：（唱歌）喔，織夢者。

(Laughter)

（笑聲）

Oh, sorry --

喔，抱歉——

(Applause)

（掌聲）

I just had to sing it

我非唱不可，因為這首歌 對我其實很重要，

because that song is actually pretty important to me,

it was playing the first time I kissed a girl.

我初吻女孩時就是放這首歌。

現在各位一整天都會在腦中 聽到這首歌，不客氣。

It will now be stuck in your head for the rest of the day, you're welcome.

And with the addition of that position,

新增了那個職位之後， 我們火力全開。

we were on fire.

Sincerely, a guest warned us in advance

真的，有一位客人事先警告我們

that his dad was more of a Budweiser steak-and-potatoes kind of guy

他爸爸是比較偏向百威啤酒 牛排和馬鈴薯型的人，

而非蘇玳葡萄酒和肥鵝肝醬，

than Sauternes and foie gras,

so the Dream Weavers turned our fancy champagne cart

所以織夢者將我們 很炫的香檳推車變成

into a Budweiser cart,

百威啤酒推車，

filled with every available type of Budweiser

裝滿這一區所有酒店中 能找得到的各種百威啤酒。

at every bodega in the neighborhood.

(Laughter)

（笑聲）

A couple came in to console themselves

有對夫妻因為海灘假期的班機 被取消了而來餐廳自我安慰。

after their beach vacation flight was canceled.

So at the end of their meal,

所以在他們餐後，我們把私人用餐間

we turned our private dining room into their very own private beach

轉變成他們自己的私人海灘，

with reclining folding chairs, a ton of sand on the ground,

有躺椅，地上有一堆沙，

and a kiddie pool filled with water they could dip their feet into

還有個裝滿水的兒童池， 可以一邊泡腳，

while they drowned their sorrows over tropical mai tais

一邊排解沒喝到小雨傘 裝飾果汁甜酒的憂愁。

with those little umbrellas.

Or a family of four from Spain was in the restaurant.

或者，餐廳中有一家四口 是從西班牙來紐約渡假的。

They were in New York on vacation.

And while they were eating, the most beautiful thing happened.

他們用餐時發生了最美好的事。

The kids were looking out our massive windows with wonder.

孩子們帶著驚奇 看著我們巨大的窗子。

It had started snowing

開始下雪了，

and it was the first time they'd ever seen real snow.

那是他們第一次看見真的雪。

The Dream Weaver found a store

織夢者找到一家星期五 晚上八點還開著的店，

that was open at eight o’clock on a Friday night.

當他們離開餐廳時，

When they left the restaurant,

有個司機開休旅車，等著載他們 去中央公園享用最特別的睡前酒：

there was a chauffeur-driven SUV waiting to take them to Central Park

for the most special nightcap:

a few hours of play in the freshly fallen snow.

在剛降下的雪中玩幾個小時。

With these gestures and so many more,

有這些及許多其他的善意表示，

our guests were obviously happier than ever,

我們的賓客顯然比以前 更快樂，但，你知道嗎？

but you know what?

This is the cool part, so was our team.

很酷的是，我們的團隊也更快樂。

Because for the first time, they had creative autonomy.

因為這是他們頭一次 擁有創意自主權。

They were no longer just helping to execute someone else's vision,

他們不再只是協助執行別人的遠景，

serving plates of food someone else had created.

端上別人做好的菜餚。

They were coming up with their own ideas,

他們提出自己的點子，而那些 點子也影響了賓客的體驗。

and those ideas were affecting the guest experience.

They were empowered.

他們更有自信和能力。

But mostly,

但，通常，

I mean, we were all just happy

我們只是因為能讓別人 真的很快樂而感到快樂。

because we were making other people really, really happy.

There are few things more energizing than seeing the look of complete joy

很少有什麼能比得上這種振奮感：

看見別人收到禮物時臉上滿是喜悅，

on someone's face when they receive a gift

that you are responsible for giving.

而禮物是你負責給的。

It can become one of the most beautiful addictions.

這能成為最美的癮之一。

And as we all found ourselves quickly becoming addicted

當我們全都很快上了癮， 不斷想要為賓客再做更多時，

to going above and beyond for our guests,

we found ourselves going above and beyond for one another as well.

我們也發現我們開始為彼此做更多。

Now I'm going to say this because I'm sure some people are thinking it:

我要說一件事，因為 我確信有些人在想：

超乎情理的好客 不是只限於高檔餐廳。

unreasonable hospitality is not just for fancy restaurants.

I get it, some of the gestures I just described

我知道，我剛說的一些 善意表示是真的挺奢華的。

were quite extravagant.

We did hire people onto the team to help us execute them more consistently.

我們確實有僱人加入團隊 協助我們更始終如一地執行。

But remember, that hotdog only cost two dollars,

但，別忘了，那根熱狗 只要兩塊錢美金，

and the impact it had was priceless.

而它產生的影響是無價的。

It does not take a big budget to start infusing this into your culture,

不需要大預算也能將這個理念 灌注到你的文化中，

因為，切記，重要的不是 善意表示的成本多高，

because remember, it's not the cost of the gesture that matters.

It's how it makes people feel.

而是它讓人有什麼感覺。

For most of America's history, we were a manufacturing economy.

美國歷史上，我們的經濟 大部分以製造為主。

Now we're a service economy and dramatically so.

現在是服務經濟， 且非常明顯是如此。

More than three quarters of our GDP is driven by service industries.

我們的國內生產毛額超過 三分之一來自服務產業。

Globally, it's more than 65 percent.

全球來看，則是超過 65%。

That means that whether you're in real estate

意思就是，不論你從事的 是房地產、零售、營建、

or retail or construction

or finance or insurance or computer services,

金融、保險，或電腦服務，

you do the same thing for a living that I do.

你謀生所做的事就跟我一樣。

You’re in the business of serving other people.

你在做的就是服務他人的生意。

And if you start to look closely enough,

如果你能開始更仔細看，

you will find opportunities for unreasonable hospitality,

你就能找到機會來展現 超乎情理的好客，

to give people more than they could ever possibly expect

給人遠超過他們預期的，

all around you.

這些機會無所不在。

Take real estate agents, for example.

以房地產經紀人為例。

Every time I've bought or rented a new apartment,

每次我買或租一間新的公寓，

at best, the agent has left me a bottle of sparkling wine in the fridge

最好的狀況，就是經紀人 在冰箱裡放一瓶氣泡酒

當給我的「謝謝你／恭喜」禮物。

as my thank you/congratulations gift.

At worst, they've just thrown the keys on the kitchen counter.

最糟糕的狀況則是他們 把鑰匙丟在廚房檯面上。

Now, this is someone with whom I've spent weeks, if not months,

經紀人可是花了數週甚至數月 和我一起尋找新家的人，

looking together for my new home.

If they've been paying attention,

如果他們有留心，他們應該 知道我人生的所有私人細節。

they should know every intimate detail of my life.

So imagine instead, if the first time my wife and I walked

想像另一個情境：我太太和我 初次踏入我們最後選定的公寓，

into the apartment that we ended up choosing,

他們偶然聽到她說她想像自己 每天早上在那個角落做瑜伽，

they overheard her talking about the nook

she imagined herself doing yoga every morning.

And when we moved in,

當我們入住時，不是那瓶 義務性要送的氣泡酒，

instead of that obligatory bottle of bubbles,

而是在角落有張全新的瑜伽墊， 旁邊有一支蠟燭和字條，

in that nook was a brand new yoga mat with a candle and a note that said

"Welcome to your new home."

寫著：「歡迎來到你們的新家。」

I think that would be pretty cool.

我認為那樣挺酷的。

And compared to the average commission,

和平均的佣金相比，

it's a pretty insignificant investment

那算是很微不足道的投資，

in what will inevitably become a lifelong relationship.

投資在會維繫一生的關係上。

This is not rocket science.

這沒有多困難。

It just requires caring a little bit more

需要的只是多在乎一點，

and trying a little bit harder.

並再多努力嘗試一下。

Being present,

活在當下，

not taking yourself too seriously

別用太嚴肅的態度，

and remembering that one size fits one.

以及不要忘記一人一碼。

Just go with me here.

配合我一下。想像如果牙科 櫃台人員開始用這種方式思考。

Imagine if the person that checked you into the dentist's office

started thinking like this.

Imagine if the person that sold you your next car started thinking like this.

想像如果汽車銷售員 開始用這種方式思考。

Or better yet, imagine if everyone on your entire team

或更好的，想像你的整個團隊 都開始用這種方式思考。

started thinking like this.

Because making good products, it's no longer enough.

因為光是做出好的產品 已經不足夠了。

Serving them efficiently is no longer enough.

有效提供它們已經不足夠了。

It's how we make people feel that matters most of all.

最重要的，是我們 讓人有什麼樣的感受。

Because I believe we are on the precipice of becoming a hospitality economy.

因為我相信，我們正要 邁入好客經濟。

Listen, unreasonable hospitality helped my restaurant

聽著，超乎情理的好客

協助我的餐廳達成 我們的每一個目標，

accomplish every single one of our goals,

and it turned the people I worked with

它也轉變了和我共事的人，

from a collection of individuals into a trusting team,

從一群人變成一個可信任的團隊，

unlocking a collective creativity and capacity

解鎖了我們以前從未 體驗過的集體創意和能力。

we had never experienced before.

So the next time you find yourself pursuing a relationship

所以，下次若你要經營一段關係，

with someone you work with or someone you serve,

對方也許是你工作的同事 或你服務的客人，

I'm just here to encourage you to try being a little bit more unreasonable.

我只想鼓勵你嘗試一下超乎情理。

(Laughter)

（笑聲）

Give people that sense of belonging.

給人那種歸屬感。

Give them a memory that can last a lifetime.

給他們一生難忘的回憶。

It will transform your business.

那會轉變你的事業。

But I can also promise you this.

但我也能向各位保證：

It will make you and all the people around you

那也會讓你以及你身邊的所有人

feel really, really, really good.

感覺真的真的真的很棒。

Thank you.

謝謝。

(Applause and cheers)

（掌聲及歡呼）