请双击下面的英文字幕来播放视频。
翻译人员: Tony Yet
校对人员: Daqing Chu
00:12
Welcome to 10,000 feet.
0
12160
3000
欢迎来到一万英尺的高空
00:15
Let me explain why we are here
1
15160
1000
先让我介绍一下我们为什么会在这里吧
00:16
and why some of you have a pine cone close to you.
2
16160
4000
也许你们有些人手上就有松塔
00:20
Once upon a time, I did a book called "How Buildings Learn."
3
20160
3000
我曾经写过一本书,叫《建筑是如何学习的》
00:23
Today's event you might call "How Mountains Teach."
4
23160
4000
今天这一演讲你可以理解为“大山是怎么施教的”
00:27
A little background: For 10 years I've been trying to figure out how to
5
27160
2000
先谈一下一些背景:过去的十年,我一直琢磨着
00:29
hack civilization so that we can get long-term thinking
6
29160
5000
破解人类文明,使得我们能够有长远的思维
00:34
to be automatic and common instead of difficult and rare --
7
34160
4000
使得这样的思维方式成为常态,而不是这种艰难或根本就没有的思维
00:38
or in some cases, non-existent.
8
38160
3000
或者在某些情况下,它们就根本不存在
00:41
It would be helpful if humanity got into the habit of thinking
9
41160
5000
假如人类可以养成长线思考的习惯,那将是大好事
00:46
of the now not just as next week or next quarter, but you know,
10
46160
4000
就是说,现在不是指这个星期或下个季度
00:50
next 10,000 years and the last 10,000 years --
11
50160
4000
而是未来一万年以及过去的一万年
00:54
basically civilization's story so far.
12
54160
4000
那也是人类文明史所走过的时间
00:58
So we have the Long Now Foundation in San Francisco.
13
58160
2000
长久基金会就在旧金山
01:00
It's an incubator for about a dozen projects,
14
60160
2000
它是一系列项目的孵化器
01:02
all having to do with continuity over the long term.
15
62160
4000
这些项目都是与长线思考相关的项目
01:06
Our core project is a rather ambitious folly --
16
66160
5000
而我们的核心项目是一个相当宏伟的愚公移山式的工程
01:11
I suppose, a mythic undertaking: to build a 10,000-year clock
17
71160
5000
可以说是一个颇具神话色彩的项目吧,就是要建一个万年钟
01:16
that can really keep good time for that long a period.
18
76160
5000
一个可以一直很好记时的万年钟
01:21
And the design problems of a project like that are just absolutely delicious.
19
81160
7000
而这样一个计划所带来的设计难题也是相当迷人的
01:28
Go to the clock. And what we have here is something
20
88160
5000
好吧,先回到这个钟。
01:33
many of you saw here three years ago.
21
93160
2000
这里看到的其实你们很多人三年前已经看过
01:35
It's the first working prototype of the clock.
22
95160
2000
这是我们制作的第一个可以运行的万年钟模型
01:37
It's about nine feet high.
23
97160
1000
高九英尺
01:38
Designed by Danny Hillis and Alexander Rose. It's presently in London,
24
98160
5000
是由Danny Hillis以及Alexander Rose设计的,它现在放在伦敦
01:43
and is ticking away very deliberately at the science museum there.
25
103160
4000
就在科学博物馆里安静地行走着
01:47
So the design problem for today is going to be,
26
107160
4000
所以说,我们今天面临的设计上的难题是
01:51
how do you house an eventual monumental clock like this
27
111160
4000
怎样永久妥善的安放这样一个钟
01:55
so it can really tick, save time beautifully for 100 centuries?
28
115160
5000
使之可以在一万年之内都能平稳的运行,并准确的计时?
02:00
Well, this was the first solution.
29
120160
2000
这是第一个方案
02:02
Alexander Rose came up with this idea
30
122160
2000
Alexander Rose提出这个设想
02:04
of a spiraloid tower with continuous sloping ramps.
31
124160
5000
用一系列的斜坡做成一个螺旋型的塔
02:09
And it looked like a way to go, until you start thinking
32
129160
2000
这个想法似乎不错
02:11
about, what does deep time do to a building?
33
131160
3000
而一旦你想到长久时间对一座建筑带来的破坏时
02:14
Well, this is what deep time does to a building.
34
134160
3000
看,这就是长久时间对建筑带来的破坏
02:17
This is the Parthenon. It's only 2,450 years old,
35
137160
4000
这是帕提农神庙,它建成至今只有2450年之久
02:21
and look what happened to it.
36
141160
1000
看看它身上发生了什么
02:22
Here's a beautiful project. They really knew it'd last forever,
37
142160
3000
这是一个很美的工程 建筑者以为它可以永世长存
02:25
because they'd build it out of absolutely huge stones.
38
145160
4000
因为他们是用巨型的石块建成的
02:29
And now it's a pathetic ruin and no one even knows what it was used for.
39
149160
3000
现在看到的就只是一堆烂石 也没有人知道那里原来是用作何种用途的
02:32
That's what happens to buildings. They're vulnerable.
40
152160
3000
这就是建筑的命运 它们都是不堪岁月洗礼的
02:35
Even the most durable and intactable buildings,
41
155160
3000
即使是最为持久、最为坚固的建筑
02:38
like the pyramids of Giza, are in bad shape when you look up close.
42
158160
4000
比如吉萨城的金字塔,都已经满目仓荑
02:42
They've been looted inside and out.
43
162160
3000
盗墓者里里外外把坟墓淘空了
02:45
And they're built to protect things but they don't protect things.
44
165160
3000
这些建筑本来是用来保存东西的,但事实上它们起不到这个作用
02:48
So we got to thinking, if you can't put things safely in a building,
45
168160
4000
所以我们想,既然用建筑来放东西不是一个安稳的办法
02:52
where can you safely put them? We thought, OK, underground.
46
172160
3000
哪里才是好的存放地呢?我们想,不如放到地下?
02:55
How about underground with a view?
47
175160
3000
在地表上装一个观测的窗口?
02:58
Underground in a place that's really solid.
48
178160
2000
找一个相当坚固的地方。
03:00
So the obvious answer was, we need a mountain.
49
180160
4000
答案很明显,我们需要找到一座山
03:04
You don't want just any mountain.
50
184160
2000
并且不仅仅是一座山
03:06
You need absolutely the right mountain
51
186160
3000
我们需要合适的山
03:09
if you're going to have a clock for 10,000 years.
52
189160
2000
只有那样才能存放一个万年的钟
03:11
So here's an image of the long view of the search problem.
53
191160
5000
于是,我们又遇到了搜寻合适的地点的难题
03:16
And we got to thinking for various reasons it ought to be a desert mountain,
54
196160
4000
基于多方面的考虑,我们想到那必须是一个位于沙漠地带的山
03:20
so we got looking in the dry areas of the Southwest.
55
200160
3000
于是我们就到美国西南部的干旱地带搜寻
03:23
We looked at mesas in New Mexico.
56
203160
3000
我们看了新墨西哥州的山谷地
03:26
We were looking at dead volcanoes in Arizona.
57
206160
2000
看了亚利桑那州的死火山
03:28
Then Roger Kennedy, who was the director of the National Parks Service,
58
208160
3000
这时,国家公园服务处的Roger Kennedy找到我们
03:31
led us to Eastern Nevada,
59
211160
2000
把我们带到内华达州东部
03:33
to America's newest and oldest national park,
60
213160
3000
来到美国最年轻也最古老的国家公园
03:36
which is called Great Basin National Park.
61
216160
4000
那就是大盘地国家公园
03:40
It's right on the eastern border of Nevada.
62
220160
3000
就在内华达州东部的边界上
03:43
It's the highest range in the state -- over 13,000 feet.
63
223160
4000
那里是整个州最高的地方,有一万三千英尺高
03:47
And you'll notice that on the left, on the left, on the west, it's very steep,
64
227160
4000
你会看到,在左边,在西边,那里非常陡峭
03:51
and on the right it's gentle.
65
231160
3000
而在右边则非常缓和
03:54
This place is remote. It's over 200 miles from any major city.
66
234160
4000
这个地方相当偏僻,离最近的大城市都要200英里
03:58
It's nowhere near any Interstate or railroad.
67
238160
3000
旁边没有任何的州际公路或铁路
04:01
And it's -- the only thing that goes by is what's called
68
241160
4000
附近只有一个称之为
04:05
America's loneliest highway, U.S. 50.
69
245160
4000
美国50号公路,那是美国最寂寞的公路
04:09
Now, inside the yellow line here, on the right is -- that's all national park.
70
249160
5000
在这黄线里面,右边是国家公园
04:14
Inside the green line is national forest.
71
254160
3000
绿线里面就是国家森林
04:17
And then over to the left is Bureau of Land Management land and some private land.
72
257160
4000
左边是国土管理局以及其他私人领地
04:21
Now, as it happened, that two-mile-long strip right in the middle,
73
261160
3000
而刚好中间那一段两英里长的狭窄地带
04:24
this vertical, was available because it was private land.
74
264160
6000
这个竖状地带是私人领地,它可以出让
04:30
And thanks to Jay Walker who was here and Mitch Kapor who was here,
75
270160
4000
感谢Jay Walker以及Mitch Kapor,他们两个今天都在这里
04:34
who started the process, Long Now was able to get that two-mile-long strip of land.
76
274160
6000
这是在他们的支持下,我们得以启动这一项目,买下了这块地
04:40
And now let's look at the grand truth of what's there.
77
280160
3000
好吧,让我们看看那里到底有些什么吧
04:43
We're in Pole Canyon, looking west up the western escarpment
78
283160
4000
我们就在峡谷顶上,西边就是华盛顿山脉的悬崖
04:47
of Mount Washington, which is 11,600 feet on top.
79
287160
5000
那里的最高峰有11600英尺高
04:52
Those white cliffs are a dense Cambrian limestone.
80
292160
3000
那些悬崖都是由密集的寒武纪钟乳石构成的
04:55
That's a 2,000-foot thick formation,
81
295160
3000
有两千英尺厚
04:58
and it might be a beautiful place to hide a clock.
82
298160
5000
用来藏一个钟应该是不错的选择
05:03
It would be a pilgrimage to get to it; it would be a serious hike
83
303160
3000
人们要想去到那里的话,就须得像朝圣者那样徒步前往
05:06
to get up to where the clock is.
84
306160
3000
一步一步的攀上悬崖
05:09
So last June, the Long Now board, some staff and some donors
85
309160
5000
去年六月,长久基金会的董事会成员、一些职员以及捐赠者
05:14
and advisors, made a two-week expedition to the mountain
86
314160
5000
花了两周时间在那里考察
05:19
to explore it and investigate, one, if it's the right mountain,
87
319160
5000
一来是想知道那里是否真的合适
05:24
and two, if it's the right mountain, how it might actually work for us.
88
324160
4000
假如合适的话,我们可以怎么具体去开展这一项目
05:28
Now Danny Hillis sort of framed the problem.
89
328160
3000
Danny Hillis 尝试这样去解决这个问题
05:31
He has a theory of how the overall clock experience should work.
90
331160
3000
他提出了一套理论,向人们解释这一神秘的探访过程是怎么一回事
05:34
It's what he calls the seven stages of a mythic adventure.
91
334160
4000
他说,这一过程包括七个环节
05:38
It starts with the image. The image is a picture you have in your mind
92
338160
4000
一开始是一个图像,也就是在你头脑中形成的图像
05:42
of the goal at the end of the journey.
93
342160
2000
你想象着自己必须完成这一段旅程
05:44
In this case it might well be an image of the clock.
94
344160
3000
也许旅程的尽头就是一个钟在等着你
05:47
Then there's the point of embarkation, that is, the point of transition
95
347160
4000
而后就是出发,这就是行程的开始点
05:51
from ordinary life to being a pilgrim on a quest.
96
351160
4000
从平常的生活转变为求索的朝圣者
05:55
Then -- this is a nice image of it, there's the labyrinth.
97
355160
4000
而后呢,就是走进迷宫——这一点相当迷人
05:59
The labyrinth is a concept, it's like a twilight zone,
98
359160
4000
迷宫是一个概念,就有如一个幽暗地带
06:03
it's a place where it's difficult, where you get disoriented,
99
363160
3000
要走出非常艰难,你会迷路
06:06
maybe you get scared -- but you have to go through it
100
366160
3000
甚至会被吓坏了——但你必须要走过去
06:09
if you're going to get to some kind of deep reintegration.
101
369160
3000
假如你要获得某种深度的融合的话
06:12
Then there should always be in sight the draw --
102
372160
4000
再而后你肯定会看到
06:16
a kind of a beacon that draws you on through the labyrinth
103
376160
3000
像航标那样的东西,指引你走过重重的迷宫
06:19
to finish the process of getting there.
104
379160
3000
最终走出迷宫
06:22
Now Brian Eno, who's been in the thick of the Long Now process,
105
382160
3000
音乐家Brian Eno——他全程参与了长久基金会的这一项目
06:25
spent two years making a C.D. called "January 7003,"
106
385160
5000
花了两年时间制作了一张名为“7003的一月”的CD
06:30
and it's "Bell Studies for the Clock of the Long Now."
107
390160
3000
“关于万年钟的贝尔研究”
06:33
Based on -- parts of it are based on an algorithm that Danny Hillis developed,
108
393160
5000
其中一部分是根据Danny Hillis开创的算法制作的
06:38
so that a peal of 10 bells
109
398160
2000
十个铃组成一串
06:40
makes a different peal every day for 10,000 years.
110
400160
4000
万年钟在一万年的光阴里每天都可以发出不一样的系列钟声
06:44
The Hillis algorithm. 10 factorial gives you that number.
111
404160
4000
Hillis的算法可以通过指数10达到这一目的
06:48
And in fact, pretty soon we'll hear the sound.
112
408160
3000
我们马上就能听到这声音了
06:51
January 7003. There it is.
113
411160
4000
”7003的一月“。听
06:55
OK, back to Danny's list.
114
415160
2000
现在回到Danny Hillis那个七个环节
06:57
Number five of the seven is the payoff. This is it. The climax.
115
417160
4000
第五点是回报,就是它,最让人兴奋的时光
07:01
The goal. The main thing that you're trying to get to.
116
421160
4000
你到了终点了,到了你想去的地方
07:05
And then Danny says a really great journey will have a secret payoff.
117
425160
4000
Danny说这样一个伟大的旅途应该有一个神秘的收获的
07:09
Something you didn't expect that caps what you did expect.
118
429160
4000
那是你意想不到的收获
07:13
Then there's the return.
119
433160
2000
这就是你的收获
07:15
You've got to have a gradual return to the ordinary world,
120
435160
3000
你要慢慢的返回到平常世界
07:18
so you have time to assimilate what you've learned.
121
438160
4000
你才会慢慢的消化学到的东西
07:22
And then, how about a memento? Number seven.
122
442160
4000
然后呢,是不是应该有一个记念?第七个环节
07:26
At the end of it there's something physical,
123
446160
1000
到最后有一种物质的东西
07:27
a kind of reward that you take away.
124
447160
2000
一种你可以拿走的回报
07:29
It might be a piece of a core drill of the mountain.
125
449160
2000
也许是一件开山岩的钻头
07:31
Something that's just yours.
126
451160
3000
一件你自己的东西
07:34
How do you study a mountain
127
454160
3000
你如何去研究一座山?
07:37
for the kinds of things we're talking about?
128
457160
2000
研究刚才提到的那些特征?
07:39
This is not a normal building project.
129
459160
2000
这不是一个平常的建筑项目
07:41
What do you look for?
130
461160
1000
要注意些什么呢?
07:42
What are the elements that will most affect your ideas and decisions?
131
462160
6000
什么是最能影响你的思想与决定的?
07:48
Start with borders. If you look on the left side of the cliffs here,
132
468160
3000
我们从边界开始,假如你仔细看悬崖的左边
07:51
that's national park. That's sacrosanct --
133
471160
2000
那里是国家公园,是一 块神圣之地
07:53
you can't do anything with that. To the right of it is national forest.
134
473160
3000
这块地不能动用,右边则是国家森林
07:56
There's possibilities. The borders are important.
135
476160
3000
那里有可能(成为选址地),但是对边界必须非常小心
07:59
Other elements were mines, weather, approaches and elevation.
136
479160
8000
其他需要考虑的因素是矿井、天气、进去的难度以及攀登的高度
08:07
And especially trees. Look at those things up on top there.
137
487160
3000
还有特别要留意树。大家看看山顶上有些什么
08:10
It turns out that Mount Washington is covered with bristlecone pines.
138
490160
4000
事实上,华盛顿山脉上面覆盖了古刺果松
08:14
They're the world's oldest living thing.
139
494160
3000
它们是世界上现存的活下来的最古老的生物
08:17
People think they're just the size of shrubs, but that's not actually true.
140
497160
5000
人们以为它们只有灌木丛那么大小,其实不是
08:22
There are trees on that mountain that are 5,000 years old and still living.
141
502160
7000
那座山上有的树其树龄已达五千年了,还在生长着
08:29
The wood is so solid it's like stone, and it lasts for a long time.
142
509160
5000
这棵树的木质是如此坚固,简直有如石块,它已经久很长的时间了
08:34
So when you do tree ring studies of trunks that are on the mountain,
143
514160
4000
要是你对高山上的树进行年轮测试
08:38
some of them go back 10,000 years.
144
518160
3000
有些还可以追溯到上万年前呢
08:41
The stone itself is absolutely beautiful,
145
521160
2000
而这些“石头”本身也非常美丽
08:43
sculpted by millennia of very tough winters up there.
146
523160
4000
因为它们经历了千万年风雨的洗礼
08:47
We had tree ring analysts from the University of Arizona
147
527160
3000
亚利桑那大学对那里的树做了年轮测试
08:50
join us on the expedition.
148
530160
2000
他们跟我们一起去的
08:52
Now, if you guys have a pine cone handy,
149
532160
2000
好,假如你们手上有松塔的话
08:54
now's a good time to put it in your hand and feel it, especially on the end.
150
534160
5000
可以用手去摸摸它,特别是顶端。
08:59
That's interesting.
151
539160
2000
很有趣的
09:01
You'll find out why it's called a bristlecone pine. A little sensory experience.
152
541160
6000
你可以体会到它为何叫古刺果松了,你能感觉到的
09:07
Here's Danny Hillis in the midst of a bristlecone pine forest
153
547160
5000
图片上那个就是Danny Hillis,它就在一片古刺果松林里
09:12
on Long Now land. I should say that the age of bristlecones
154
552160
5000
在这块万年钟的土地上,我应该提起这一树种的树龄测算
09:17
was discovered, led by a theory.
155
557160
3000
它是由一个理论推导出来的
09:20
Edmund Schulman in the 1950s
156
560160
2000
Edmund Schulman在1950年代
09:22
had been studying trees under great stress at Timberline,
157
562160
4000
他在Timberline公司用高压研究这些树木
09:26
and came to the realization that he put in an article in Science magazine
158
566160
3000
最后推出一理论,在《科学》杂志上写一文章公布其结果。
09:29
called, "Longevity under Adversity in Conifers."
159
569160
6000
题为“困厄铸就长寿——针叶树的研究”
09:35
And then, based on that principle, he started looking around
160
575160
3000
他起初按照这一理论原理,对该地的周围进行研究
09:38
at the various trees at Timberline,
161
578160
2000
在Timerline公司研究各样的树种
09:40
and realized that the bristlecone pines --
162
580160
2000
结果发现这种古刺果松
09:42
he found some in the White Mountains that were over 4,000 years old.
163
582160
5000
他在怀特山脉发现的这种树有大约4000年的树龄
09:47
Longevity under adversity is a pretty interesting design principle in its own right.
164
587160
5000
“困厄出长寿”本身也是一个很有趣的设计法则
09:52
OK, onto the mines. The first asking price for the property
165
592160
4000
好,我们再看看矿井。最初 是以土地要价
09:56
when we looked at it in 1998 was one billion dollars for 180 acres and a couple of mines.
166
596160
10000
1998年我们第一次去看的时候,那里的要价是十亿美元可以买180英亩的地以及少许的矿井
10:06
Because the owner said, "There's one billion dollars of beryllium in that mountain."
167
606160
4000
因为土地的主人说地里有价值十亿的铍
10:10
And we said, "Wow, that's great. Listen, we'll counter. How about zero?
168
610160
5000
我们说,太棒了——我们能不能以零价购买,我们不要那些矿藏?
10:15
(Laughter)
169
615160
2000
(笑声)
10:17
And we're a non-profit foundation, you can give us the property
170
617160
4000
我们是一个非牟利的基金会,你可以直接把地给我们啊
10:21
and take a hell of a tax deduction.
171
621160
3000
还能减免一大笔的税金呢
10:24
(Laughter)
172
624160
3000
(笑声)
10:27
All you have to do is prove to the government it's worth a billion dollars."
173
627160
3000
只要你能向政府证明那块地值十亿就行了
10:30
Well, a few years went by and there was some kind of back and forth,
174
630160
2000
又过了几年,我们之间也有一些往复
10:32
and by and by, thanks to Mitch and Jay,
175
632160
2000
最后,在Mitch Kapor和Jay的帮助下
10:34
we were able to buy the whole property for 140,000 dollars.
176
634160
5000
我们最终以14万美金买下了这块地
10:39
This is one of the mines. It doesn't have any beryllium in it.
177
639160
4000
这是其中一个矿井,里面根本就没有铍
10:43
It's called the Pole Adit. And it does have tungsten,
178
643160
4000
它叫Pole Adit,里面有钨矿
10:47
a little bit of tungsten, left over, that's the kind of mine it was.
179
647160
3000
不过仅仅是一点点遗留下来的,这就是它的模样
10:50
But it goes a mile-and-a-half in a straight line,
180
650160
2000
它里面有一段是长达1.5英里的直线距离
10:52
due east into the range, into very interesting territory -- except that,
181
652160
6000
一直延伸到东部,去到一个非常有趣的地方
10:58
as you'll see when we go inside in a minute,
182
658160
3000
我们去到里面你就可以看得到
11:01
we were hoping for limestone but in there is just shale.
183
661160
4000
本希望看到钟乳石的,可惜只是看得到页岩
11:05
And shale is not quite completely competent rock.
184
665160
3000
页岩又不是很坚固的石块
11:08
Competent rock is rock that will hold itself up without any shoring.
185
668160
4000
坚固的石块是不需要任何的外物支撑即可树在那里的
11:12
The shale would like some shoring,
186
672160
2000
而页岩则是需要一些支撑的
11:14
and so parts of it are caved in in there.
187
674160
2000
它的有些部分是深深陷入洞里的
11:16
That's Ben Roberts from -- he's the bat specialist from the National Park.
188
676160
4000
这是Ben Roberts,他是国家公园的蝙蝠专家
11:20
But there are many wonders back in there, like this weird fungus
189
680160
4000
里面还有很多奇异的东西,比如这个真菌
11:24
on some of the collapsed timbers.
190
684160
2000
它就生长在一个枯萎的木头上
11:26
OK, here's another mine that's up on top of the property,
191
686160
4000
这是另外一个矿井,它在山上
11:30
and it dates back to 1870.
192
690160
2000
它的历史可以追溯到 1870年
11:32
That's what the property was originally built around --
193
692160
2000
那是这块土地最初开发的时间
11:34
it was a set of mining claims. It was a very productive silver mine.
194
694160
5000
很多矿井项目都在这里开始,那是一个高产的银矿
11:39
In fact, it was the highest-operating mine in Nevada,
195
699160
3000
事实上,它是内华达州海拔最高的作业矿井
11:42
and it ran year round.
196
702160
2000
一年到头都在开工
11:44
You can imagine what it was like in the winter at 10,000 feet.
197
704160
3000
你可以想象在冬季的时候在一万英尺的地方工作是怎么样的感觉
11:47
You may recognize a couple of the miners there.
198
707160
3000
你也许认识开矿的几位探险者
11:50
There's Jeff Bezos on the right and Paul Saville on the left looking for galena,
199
710160
6000
右边是 Jeff Bezos 左边是 Paul Saville ,他们正在找方铅矿
11:56
which is the lead-silver thing. They didn't find any.
200
716160
5000
可是找不到
12:01
They both kept their day jobs. Here's the last mine.
201
721160
5000
他们白天都有工作,这是最后一个矿井
12:06
It's called the Bonanza Adit. It's down in a canyon.
202
726160
2000
它叫Bonanza Adit,是在峡谷底下的
12:08
And Alexander Rose on the left there worked with a bunch of people
203
728160
4000
左边是Alexander Rose,他在和来自国家公园的人员
12:12
from the National Park to survey the whole mine. It's a mile deep.
204
732160
3000
一起探测整个矿井,那里有一英里深
12:15
And they also found four species of bats in there.
205
735160
3000
他们在那还发现了四个种类的蝙蝠
12:18
Now, almost all those mines, by the way, meet underneath the mountain.
206
738160
4000
现在,几乎所有的这些矿井都会聚在山底之下
12:22
They don't quite, but it's something to think about.
207
742160
3000
这是值得思考的地方
12:25
They don't quite meet.
208
745160
2000
它们没有完全的汇聚
12:27
Let's go to weather. Mountains specialize in interesting weather.
209
747160
6000
再看看天气吧。山间的天气都很特别
12:33
Way more interesting than Monterey even today.
210
753160
3000
比蒙特雷的天气有意思多了
12:36
And so one Tuesday morning last June, there we were.
211
756160
3000
去年六月的一个星期二,我们在那里的时候
12:39
Woke up in the morning -- the mountain was covered with snow.
212
759160
3000
早上醒来,山顶上盖满了积雪
12:42
That was a great time to go up and visit our weather station which again,
213
762160
4000
那天我们登上山顶去看我们的气候站,一路真是棒极了。
12:46
thanks to Mitch Kapor, we're building up there.
214
766160
3000
气象站是Mitch Kapor赞助下建起来的
12:49
And it's a pretty interesting scene.
215
769160
3000
那里的风景也很美
12:52
This is, on the left there, the joyful lady is Pat Irwin,
216
772160
3000
左边这位很快活的女士是 Pat Irwin
12:55
who's the regional head of the National Forest Service,
217
775160
3000
她是国家森林服务的地区主管
12:58
and they gave us the temporary use permit to be there.
218
778160
4000
他们允许我们短暂的使用那块地
13:02
We want a temporary use permit for the clock, eventually --
219
782160
2000
我们希望获得一个短期的土地使用许可,结果是
13:04
10,000-year temporary use permit.
220
784160
2000
一个时间为一万年的短期使用许可
13:06
(Laughter)
221
786160
2000
(笑声)
13:08
The weather station's pretty interesting.
222
788160
2000
气象站是很有趣的
13:10
Kurt Bollacker and Alexander Rose designed a radically wireless station.
223
790160
4000
Kurt Bollacker 和 Alexander Rose 设计了一个无线的气象站
13:14
It runs on solar, and it sends a signal
with that antenna
224
794160
3000
通过太阳能驱动,数据通过天线发送
13:17
and bounces it off of micrometeorite trails in the atmosphere
225
797160
6000
信号通过天际间的彗星折射回来
13:23
to a place in Bozeman, Montana, where the data is taken down
226
803160
4000
在蒙特那州的伯兹曼数据中心接收到信号
13:27
and then sent through landlines to San Francisco,
227
807160
3000
然后经由地面网络将数据传送到旧金山
13:30
where we put the data in real time up on our website.
228
810160
4000
在那我们在网上公布实时数据
13:34
And there you see a week of weather at 9,400 feet on Mount Washington.
229
814160
6000
所以你可以在网站上看到高达94000英尺的华盛顿山山顶最近一周的天气变化
13:40
Let's go to approaches.
230
820160
3000
好吧,再看看有些什么样的途径可以去到那里
13:43
As it happens, there are no trails anywhere on Mount Washington,
231
823160
4000
事实是,没有任何行路迹可以走到华盛顿山
13:47
just a few old mining roads like this,
232
827160
2000
只有一些像这样的很老的矿井路
13:49
so you have to bushwhack everywhere.
233
829160
1000
所以说去到任何一个地方都要在丛林中开路
13:50
But there's no bears, and there's no poison oak,
234
830160
4000
但没有熊,也没有毒橡木树
13:54
and there's basically no people because this place has been empty for a long time.
235
834160
6000
也没有人,因为这里的人很久之前就迁走了
14:00
You can hike for days and not encounter anybody.
236
840160
3000
你也许一连走了几天也不会遇上一个人
14:03
Well, here's a potential approach.
237
843160
2000
这里是一个可行的路径
14:05
You need to come up the Lincoln Canyon.
238
845160
3000
你要来到林肯峡谷
14:08
It's this beautiful world all of its own, surrounded by cliffs,
239
848160
3000
那里本身就很美,四周是悬崖削壁
14:11
and it's an easy hike to stroll up the canyon bottom,
240
851160
4000
有一条捷径在峡谷底部很轻松的行走
14:15
until you get to this barrier, and it actually presents a problem.
241
855160
7000
但是,当你来到这里的时候,就碰上了一个难题了
14:22
So you can scratch Lincoln Canyon as an approach.
242
862160
5000
你可以选择从头绕过林肯峡谷作为一条路径
14:27
Another possible approach is right up the western front of the mountain.
243
867160
3000
另一种可能是从山的西边上去
14:30
You can see why we sometimes call it Long Mountain.
244
870160
3000
你也可以理解为何我们称之为长山脉
14:33
And from where you're standing at 6,000 feet in the valley,
245
873160
3000
站在海拔六千英尺高的峡谷上
14:36
it's an easy hike up to the mature pinyon and juniper forest
246
876160
3000
很轻松的就能徒步走到矮松以及针叶松地带
14:39
through that knoll at the front at 7,600 feet.
247
879160
2000
就是通过7600英尺处的一个小丘
14:41
And you can carry right on up through meadows
248
881160
3000
可以继续沿着草地走
14:44
and steepening forest to the high base of the cliffs at 10,500 feet,
249
884160
5000
经过一段陡林来到一万零五百英尺高处悬崖上的基地
14:49
where there's a bit of a problem.
250
889160
3000
可到了这里又有问题了
14:52
Now, Jeff Bezos advised us when he left at the end of the expedition,
251
892160
5000
Jeff Bezos离开我们这个探险队的时候说
14:57
"Make the clock inaccessible.
252
897160
4000
“要让万年钟无路可达
15:01
The harder it is to get to, the more people will value it."
253
901160
4000
越是难以到达,人们越是 会珍视它的价值”
15:05
And check -- those are 600-foot vertical walls there.
254
905160
5000
好,看这里——这就有600英尺高的垂直峭壁
15:10
So Alexander Rose wanted to explore this route,
255
910160
5000
Alexander Rose想试一试攀上去
15:15
and he started over here on the left from his pickup truck
256
915160
4000
他从停泊卡车的左方开始
15:19
at 8,900 feet and headed up the mountain.
257
919160
3000
那里海拔8900英尺
15:22
Now, as you gain elevation your IQ goes down --
258
922160
4000
但是我们知道,去到海拔越高的地方,人的IQ也会随之下降
15:26
(Laughter)
259
926160
2000
(笑声)
15:28
but your emotional affect goes up,
260
928160
2000
但是你的情绪会高涨起来
15:30
which is great for having a mythic experience,
261
930160
3000
这对于探秘之旅而言是有益的
15:33
whether you want to or not.
262
933160
2000
不管你自身是否愿意
15:35
In fact, Danny Hillis can estimate altitude
263
935160
3000
当时,Danny Hillis还能估算高度
15:38
by how much math he can't do in his head.
264
938160
3000
靠他不能用他的大脑来进行计算的程度
15:41
(Laughter)
265
941160
3000
(笑声)
15:44
Now, I happened to be on the radio with Alexander
266
944160
2000
我曾经和Alexander出现在电台节目上
15:46
when he got to this point at the base of the cliffs, and he said, quote,
267
946160
5000
当他到达悬崖之基部这一点的时候,他说
15:51
"There's a hidden notch. I think I can get up a ways."
268
951160
5000
“那里有个隐秘的V形口,我想我可以通过那里上去的”
15:56
Now, he's a rock climber, but you know, he's our executive director.
269
956160
4000
他会攀岩,同时也是我们的项目执行总监
16:00
I don't want him killed. I know he's going to love cliffs.
270
960160
2000
我不希望他就此送命,因为我知道他很热爱那项运动
16:02
I'm saying, "Be careful, be careful, be careful."
271
962160
3000
我说,“你要小心、小心、再小心啊”
16:05
Then he starts going up, and the next thing I hear is,
272
965160
3000
他就这样上去了,我接着就听到
16:08
"I'm half-way up. It's like climbing stairs. I'm going up 60 degrees.
273
968160
6000
“我爬到一半距离了,简直跟爬楼梯没什么两样,我还是沿着60度角爬的呢”
16:14
It's a secret passage. It's like something from Tolkien."
274
974160
4000
这里是一个秘密的通道,就像是托尔金小说里描写的那样“
16:18
And I'm going, "Careful, careful. Please be careful."
275
978160
3000
我接着说:“你小心点,小心点,求你小心点!”
16:21
And then, of course, the next thing I hear is,
276
981160
1000
接下来我听到的是
16:22
"I've made it to the top. You can see all of creation from up here."
277
982160
3000
“我到山顶了,在这里你可以看到造化的万物啊!”
16:25
And he dashed across the top of the mountains.
278
985160
3000
他在山顶上狂奔
16:28
In fact, there he is. That's Alexander Rose.
279
988160
2000
看,那个就是他
16:30
First ascent of the western face to Mount Washington,
280
990160
3000
他是第一个从西侧登上华盛顿山山顶的
16:33
and a solo ascent at that.
281
993160
4000
并且完全是一个人完成的
16:37
This discovery changed everything about our sense of these cliffs
282
997160
3000
这一发现完全改变了我们对于那些悬崖的看法
16:40
and what to do with them.
283
1000160
2000
以及我们对待它们的态度
16:42
We realized that we had to name this thing that Alexander discovered.
284
1002160
4000
我们觉得有必要给这个Alexander发现的东西命名
16:46
How about Zander's Crevice? No.
285
1006160
4000
是不是叫桑德缝隙呢?不好
16:50
(Laughter)
286
1010160
4000
(笑声)
16:54
So we finally decided on Alexander's Siq.
287
1014160
3000
最后我们决定将其以Alexander命名
16:57
Zander's Siq is named after -- some of you have been to Petra,
288
1017160
3000
桑德缝隙——假如你去过Petra的话
17:00
there's this wonderful slot canyon that leads into Petra
289
1020160
4000
那里是一个非常美丽的狭长地带,它通向Petra
17:04
called the Siq, and so this is the Siq.
290
1024160
2000
名字叫Siq,这就是
17:06
And it really is hidden. I can't find it in this image,
291
1026160
3000
它真的是隐藏起来的,在地图上看不到的
17:09
and I'm not sure you can.
292
1029160
1000
不知你们能否找到
17:10
Only when you get fresh snow can you see just along the rim there,
293
1030160
4000
只有等到雪后刚过的时候,你才会看到这种轮缘
17:14
and that brings it out.
294
1034160
2000
这时它才能被发现
17:16
Now, Danny and I were up at this same area one day,
295
1036160
2000
有一天,Danny和我到了同一个地方
17:18
and Danny looked over to the right
296
1038160
2000
Danny看了看右手边
17:20
and noticed something halfway up the cliffs,
297
1040160
3000
看到悬崖的半空中
17:23
which is a kind of a porch or a cliff shelf with bristlecones on it,
298
1043160
4000
那里就是如一个小平面,上面有些古勒果松
17:27
and supposed that people going up to the clock inside the mountain
299
1047160
4000
设想一下,假如有人从山里面去寻找万年钟
17:31
could come out onto that shelf and look down at the view.
300
1051160
4000
他们可能来到这里,并且被那松树吸引探出头来
17:35
And the people toiling up the mountain could see them,
301
1055160
3000
那些想登到山顶的人能看得到他们
17:38
these tiny little people up there, incredibly halfway up the cliff.
302
1058160
3000
这些看上去很小的人在那里,就悬在半空
17:41
How did they get there? Do I have to do that?
303
1061160
3000
他们是怎么去到那里的?我是不是也要那样做?
17:44
And so that maybe becomes part of the draw and part of the labyrinth.
304
1064160
3000
那也许就是万年钟带给游人的吸引力与神秘感之一
17:47
You can get another angle on Danny's porch
305
1067160
4000
这里是另一个视角
17:51
by going around to the south and looking north at the whole formation there.
306
1071160
7000
绕到是南部,然后向北部去看整个山景
17:58
And you need to know that Danny's clock is to be kept accurate
307
1078160
3000
要知道,Danny的钟是要校对准时的
18:01
by a ray of sunshine, that perfect noon hitting it every sunny day,
308
1081160
5000
这依靠每个晴天正好在中午的太阳光照射
18:06
and the pulse of heat from that sets off a solar trigger
309
1086160
3000
那样一股热就足以驱动一个太阳能的控制器
18:09
which resets the clock to make it perfectly accurate.
310
1089160
3000
那个装置就会把时间调整过来,使时间完全正确
18:12
So even with the slowing of the rotation of the earth and so on,
311
1092160
2000
所以即使地球自转速度变慢了
18:14
the clock will keep perfectly good time.
312
1094160
3000
那个钟依然会准时的
18:17
So here we're looking from the south, look north.
313
1097160
2000
这是从南部、从北部望过去的照片
18:19
This is all Forest Service land. If you go up on top of those cliffs,
314
1099160
4000
这里是森林植被的领地。假如你登上这些悬崖的顶端
18:23
that's some of the Long Now land in those trees.
315
1103160
3000
会看到在森林中的长久基金会基地
18:26
And if you go up there and look back, then you'll get a sense of
316
1106160
5000
假如你再往上走,回头来看,你会体会到
18:31
what the view starts to be like from the top of the mountain.
317
1111160
3000
“一览众山小”的感觉
18:34
That's the long view. That's 80 miles to the horizon.
318
1114160
4000
这就是长距离的视野。这里离地平线有八万英里
18:38
And that's also timberline and those bristlecones really are shrubs.
319
1118160
4000
这也是林木线所在,这里的古勒果松则确实是灌木
18:42
That's a different place to be. It's 11,400 feet and it's exquisite.
320
1122160
8000
那是很不一样的地方。那里高11400英尺,景色非常壮观
18:50
Now, if you go over to the right from this image to looking at the edge of the cliffs,
321
1130160
4000
假如你仔细看这幅图的右边,特别是悬崖的边缘
18:54
it's 600 foot, just about a yard to the left of Kurt Bollacker's foot,
322
1134160
4000
有600英尺高,在Kurt Bollacker腿左边一步之遥
18:58
there is a 600-foot drop. He's ambling on over to Zander's Siq.
323
1138160
5000
600英尺垂直落下,他正慢慢的走到桑德缝隙 边上
19:03
That's what it looks like looking down it.
324
1143160
4000
往下看的时候就是这个样子
19:07
We should probably put in a rail or something.
325
1147160
4000
我想我们也许应该在那里放一围栏或之类的东西
19:11
Over on the eastern side it's gentle, as you can see.
326
1151160
4000
山的东峦则相对平缓得多
19:15
And that's not snow -- that's what the white limestone looks like.
327
1155160
3000
注意,那可不是雪,而是白色的钟乳石
19:18
You also see there a bighorn sheep.
328
1158160
4000
你还能看到一只长着很长的棱角的绵羊
19:22
Their herd was reintroduced from Wyoming.
329
1162160
3000
这些是从怀俄明州重新引进过来的
19:25
And they're doing pretty well, but they've got a bit of trouble.
330
1165160
3000
它们在这边过得挺好的,但它现处于困难的境地
19:28
This is Danny Hillis, and he's figuring out a design problem.
331
1168160
3000
Danny Hillis正在那里寻找着一个设计问题的答案
19:31
he's trying to determine if where he is on a bit of Long Now land
332
1171160
5000
他在想那里算不算是长久基金会的地
19:36
would appear from down in the valley to be the actual peak of the mountain.
333
1176160
6000
看起来从峡谷底下算起都是山顶
19:42
because the real peak is hidden around the corner.
334
1182160
2000
因为真正的山顶是在一个隐蔽的角落里的
19:44
This is what in the infantry we used to call the military crest.
335
1184160
4000
我们过去在部队里管那叫部队峰顶
19:48
And as it turned out the answer is, yes,
336
1188160
3000
这个问题的答案是肯定的
19:51
that is from down below in the valley it does look like the peak,
337
1191160
4000
从峡谷深处望出来可以看到,这一块还是山峰
19:55
and that might be conjured with.
338
1195160
2000
是人的视觉错误而已
19:57
We gradually realized we have three serious design domains to work on with this.
339
1197160
5000
所以我们在这里就遇到了三个设计难题
20:02
One is the experience of the mountain.
340
1202160
2000
一是关于高山的体验
20:04
Another is the experience in the mountain.
341
1204160
3000
二是山里头的体验
20:07
And the third is the experience from the mountain,
342
1207160
3000
第三个就是来自高山的体验
20:10
which is really dominated by the view shed
343
1210160
3000
第三点完全受到峡谷底下狭隘的观察视角的局限
20:13
of the spring valley there behind Danny,
344
1213160
4000
Danny 后面是河溪谷
20:17
and if you look off to the right, out there,
345
1217160
2000
要是你往右边看
20:19
15 miles across to the Schell Creek range.
346
1219160
4000
在离斯耐尔小溪 15英里以外的地方
20:23
In the front, there are 10 ranches strung right along the base of the mountains
347
1223160
3000
可以看到在大山脚下散布着10个农场
20:26
using the water from the mountains.
348
1226160
2000
其水源就来自于山间
20:28
In fact, there are artesian wells where water springs right into the air.
349
1228160
5000
在那你甚至还能看到地下水崩涌而出呢
20:33
One of the ranches is called the Kirkeby Ranch,
350
1233160
3000
其中一个农场叫Kirkeby农场
20:36
and I'll take you there for a minute.
351
1236160
2000
等下就会介绍
20:38
It's a very nice ranch.
352
1238160
2000
那里很漂亮
20:40
Alfalfa and cattle, run by Paul and Ronnie Brenham,
353
1240160
5000
处处都能看到紫花苜蓿和奶牛的踪迹,它是由Paul 和Ronnie Brenham共同经营的
20:45
and it's pretty idyllic. It's also hard work.
354
1245160
5000
田园风光很美,但他们干这活也是挺辛苦的
20:50
And most of these ranches are having trouble keeping going.
355
1250160
2000
很多农场存在着维持下去的难题
20:52
This is their view to the west of the Schell Creek range.
356
1252160
4000
这是从农场上看斯耐尔小溪之西岸景色
20:56
And if you go out to that line of trees at the far end,
357
1256160
3000
假如你去到远方的树林边
20:59
you'll see what the valley used to look like.
358
1259160
4000
还能看得到过去的峡谷是怎样的
21:03
This is Rocky Mountain junipers that have been there for thousands of years.
359
1263160
5000
这是刺柏,它们长在洛基山已有数千年时间了
21:08
And a scheme emerged that Long Now is looking to see
360
1268160
3000
长久基金会正在考虑是否有可能买下
21:11
if it might be possible to buy up the whole valley,
361
1271160
3000
这个峡谷地区的整一块地
21:14
because those 10 ranches with their 17,000 acres
362
1274160
4000
因为那十个农场包括17000英亩的土地
21:18
dominate a 500 square mile valley with their grazing allotments and so on,
363
1278160
5000
覆盖了500平方英里的矿区峡谷
21:23
and there's a possibility that you could get the whole thing
364
1283160
3000
我们认为有可能用五百万美金买下这里整一块地
21:26
for five million dollars and gradually restore it to its wild condition,
365
1286160
4000
而后使其逐步恢复到原貌
21:30
and somewhere in the process turn it back over to the National Park,
366
1290160
4000
在适当的时候,将其转变为国家公园
21:34
and it would double the size of Great Basin National Park. That would be swell.
367
1294160
4000
这样就可以使得大盘地国家公园的面积增加一倍。那就太棒了
21:38
OK, let's take one more look at the mountain itself.
368
1298160
3000
好吧,我们再看看这大山一眼吧
21:41
The clock experience should be profound,
369
1301160
4000
这样一个探寻万年钟的过程应该是能够给人带来深刻体会的
21:45
but from the outside it should be invisible.
370
1305160
4000
可是,人们在外面是不会体验到这点的
21:49
Now, at the base of the high cliffs there's this natural cave.
371
1309160
4000
在悬崖的底部,有一个天然的洞穴
21:53
It's only about 12 feet deep, but what if it were deepened from inside?
372
1313160
4000
只有12英尺深 但里面是否曾经是深拓过?
21:57
You excavated from somewhere, came up from inside and deepened it.
373
1317160
3000
你可以自己去开掘,走到里头去,接着深挖
22:00
And then you could have an entrance
374
1320160
1000
你可能找到一个出口
22:01
which was very rough and narrow as you first went in,
375
1321160
3000
一开始的时候很简陋
22:04
that gradually becomes more refined and then actually quite exquisite.
376
1324160
4000
可是慢慢的会变得更光滑更具美感
22:08
And this stone takes a perfect polish.
377
1328160
3000
这块石头则显然被很多人踩过
22:11
You'd have a polished set of passages and chambers in there
378
1331160
5000
你要经过很多关才能最终去到
22:16
eventually leading to the 10,000 year clock.
379
1336160
4000
万年钟所在地
22:20
And it's not a mine. This would be a nuanced evocation
380
1340160
4000
这里不是一个矿井,这是一个精心设计的鬼魂召唤,
22:24
of the basic structure of the mountain,
381
1344160
3000
基于这座大山的基本结构
22:27
and you would be appreciating it as much from inside as you do from outside.
382
1347160
3000
到了里面,你的欣赏感觉决不亚于在外面对大山的欣赏
22:30
This is architecture not made by building,
383
1350160
3000
这样的建筑艺术是大楼所做不到的
22:33
but by what you very carefully take away.
384
1353160
4000
是你非常仔细的开发过程中才能达到的
22:37
So that's what the mountain taught us.
385
1357160
3000
这就是大山带给我们的智慧
22:40
Most of the amazingness of the clock
386
1360160
3000
万年钟最迷人的地方
22:43
we can borrow from the amazingness of the mountain.
387
1363160
4000
也是借由神秘大山才得以体现
22:47
All we have to do is highlight its spectacular features and blend in with them.
388
1367160
4000
我们所做的,就是勾勒出其壮观的部分,并使之与大山相溶
22:51
It's not a clock in a mountain -- it's a mountain clock.
389
1371160
5000
这不是一个大山里的时钟,而是一个以大山为主体的时钟
22:56
Now, the Tewa Indians in the Southwest have a saying
390
1376160
2000
西南方土著特瓦族印第安人这么一句谚语:
22:58
for what you need to do when you want to think long term about anything.
391
1378160
6000
你要做事之时应该考虑到长远的未来,
23:04
They say, "pin peya obe" -- welcome to the mountain.
392
1384160
7000
土著语是 "pin peya obe" -- 欢迎来到大山
23:11
Thank you.
393
1391160
2000
谢谢大家
23:13
(Applause)
394
1393160
5000
(鼓掌)
New videos
关于本网站
这个网站将向你介绍对学习英语有用的YouTube视频。你将看到来自世界各地的一流教师教授的英语课程。双击每个视频页面上显示的英文字幕,即可从那里播放视频。字幕会随着视频的播放而同步滚动。如果你有任何意见或要求,请使用此联系表与我们联系。