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譯者: shun chieh liu
審譯者: Nova Upinel Altesse
00:12
Welcome to 10,000 feet.
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歡迎來到一萬英尺高的地方
00:15
Let me explain why we are here
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讓我解釋一下我們為什麼會在這兒
00:16
and why some of you have a pine cone close to you.
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還有為什麼有些人手邊有松果
00:20
Once upon a time, I did a book called "How Buildings Learn."
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我曾經寫過一本書,叫做 " 建築物如何學習."
00:23
Today's event you might call "How Mountains Teach."
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今天的演說則可以叫做 "山脈如何教導我們"
00:27
A little background: For 10 years I've been trying to figure out how to
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先介紹一點故事背景 : 過去十年來,我一直都在想辦法要如何
00:29
hack civilization so that we can get long-term thinking
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應付現代文明,好讓"長程思考"可以
00:34
to be automatic and common instead of difficult and rare --
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變得普及且自然,而不是像現在一樣鮮為人知且難以實現
00:38
or in some cases, non-existent.
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或在某些情況下,根本是不存在的
00:41
It would be helpful if humanity got into the habit of thinking
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如果人類可以習慣性地把當下想到
00:46
of the now not just as next week or next quarter, but you know,
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不只是下週、下一季,而是
00:50
next 10,000 years and the last 10,000 years --
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下一個一萬年,及之後的幾個一萬年
00:54
basically civilization's story so far.
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也就是迄今人類文明演進歷史
00:58
So we have the Long Now Foundation in San Francisco.
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所以我們在舊金山有永續基金會
01:00
It's an incubator for about a dozen projects,
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這基金會孕育、推動許多計劃
01:02
all having to do with continuity over the long term.
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每個計劃都和永續有關
01:06
Our core project is a rather ambitious folly --
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我們的核心計劃是蠻天馬行空的
01:11
I suppose, a mythic undertaking: to build a 10,000-year clock
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我想是有如登天般的艱鉅任務:建造萬年鐘
01:16
that can really keep good time for that long a period.
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真的可以走一萬年的時鐘
01:21
And the design problems of a project like that are just absolutely delicious.
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而這個計畫在設計上的問題就更有趣了
01:28
Go to the clock. And what we have here is something
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看一下這個時鐘
01:33
many of you saw here three years ago.
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有些人在三年前已經看過了
01:35
It's the first working prototype of the clock.
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這是我們做的第一個可以運行的萬年鐘原型
01:37
It's about nine feet high.
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差不多有2.7公尺高
01:38
Designed by Danny Hillis and Alexander Rose. It's presently in London,
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這是由丹尼希利斯和亞歷山大蘿絲設計,目前置於倫敦
01:43
and is ticking away very deliberately at the science museum there.
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在科學博物館裡安靜地滴答走著
01:47
So the design problem for today is going to be,
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所以現在設計上主要的難題是
01:51
how do you house an eventual monumental clock like this
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要怎樣安置一個像這樣不朽的鐘
01:55
so it can really tick, save time beautifully for 100 centuries?
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讓它可以安穩,精準地運行100個世紀之久
02:00
Well, this was the first solution.
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這是第一個方案
02:02
Alexander Rose came up with this idea
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亞歷山大蘿絲想出這個方法
02:04
of a spiraloid tower with continuous sloping ramps.
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造一個由數個斜坡形成螺旋狀的塔
02:09
And it looked like a way to go, until you start thinking
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這想法看起來似乎可行,但思考以後
02:11
about, what does deep time do to a building?
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建築物在時間的摧殘之下會有什麼結果呢?
02:14
Well, this is what deep time does to a building.
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這是一個例子
02:17
This is the Parthenon. It's only 2,450 years old,
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這是巴森農神殿,它才經過2450年而已
02:21
and look what happened to it.
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就變成這樣子
02:22
Here's a beautiful project. They really knew it'd last forever,
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這是個超棒的構思,他們知道這些石頭可以經過時間的考驗
02:25
because they'd build it out of absolutely huge stones.
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因為他們完全是用巨大的石塊所建的
02:29
And now it's a pathetic ruin and no one even knows what it was used for.
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可惜現在看起來像是廢墟一般,沒有人知道這當初的用途為何
02:32
That's what happens to buildings. They're vulnerable.
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建築物就是如此的脆弱
02:35
Even the most durable and intactable buildings,
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即使是最持久,堅固的建築物也是如此
02:38
like the pyramids of Giza, are in bad shape when you look up close.
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像吉薩金字塔,如果你靠近看,已經殘破不堪了
02:42
They've been looted inside and out.
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從裡到外都被劫空了
02:45
And they're built to protect things but they don't protect things.
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本來吉薩金字塔的功能 - "保護東西"- 已經失去了
02:48
So we got to thinking, if you can't put things safely in a building,
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所以我們要想,如果一個建築物都不能保護東西
02:52
where can you safely put them? We thought, OK, underground.
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哪裡可以呢? 後來我們想到,不如埋到地面下
02:55
How about underground with a view?
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裝一個可以透視的窗口
02:58
Underground in a place that's really solid.
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埋在一個非常堅實的地表之下
03:00
So the obvious answer was, we need a mountain.
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所以最好的答案,我們需要一座山
03:04
You don't want just any mountain.
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不是隨便的一座山
03:06
You need absolutely the right mountain
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而要合適的山
03:09
if you're going to have a clock for 10,000 years.
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只有那樣才能存放萬年鐘
03:11
So here's an image of the long view of the search problem.
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於是,我們又遇到了搜尋合適地點的問題
03:16
And we got to thinking for various reasons it ought to be a desert mountain,
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基於多方面的考量,我們認為必須是沙漠地帶的山
03:20
so we got looking in the dry areas of the Southwest.
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所以我們找到了美國西南地區
03:23
We looked at mesas in New Mexico.
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新墨西哥州的臺地
03:26
We were looking at dead volcanoes in Arizona.
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現在看到的是亞利桑那州的死火山
03:28
Then Roger Kennedy, who was the director of the National Parks Service,
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然後這個國家公園的負責人羅傑‧甘迺迪
03:31
led us to Eastern Nevada,
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帶我們到內華達東部
03:33
to America's newest and oldest national park,
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全美國最年輕也最古老的國家公園
03:36
which is called Great Basin National Park.
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-大盆地國家公園
03:40
It's right on the eastern border of Nevada.
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這個國家公園正好坐落在內華達州的東側的邊境上
03:43
It's the highest range in the state -- over 13,000 feet.
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是整個州最高的地方,將近快4000公尺高
03:47
And you'll notice that on the left, on the left, on the west, it's very steep,
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你會發現山的西側非常陡峭
03:51
and on the right it's gentle.
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東側則比較平緩
03:54
This place is remote. It's over 200 miles from any major city.
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這個地方非常偏遠,離任何一個周邊的大城市都有三百多公里
03:58
It's nowhere near any Interstate or railroad.
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旁邊也沒任何州際公路或是鐵路
04:01
And it's -- the only thing that goes by is what's called
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唯一有經過的道路是
04:05
America's loneliest highway, U.S. 50.
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US 50, 全美最淒涼的公路
04:09
Now, inside the yellow line here, on the right is -- that's all national park.
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在這黃線右邊的是國家公園
04:14
Inside the green line is national forest.
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在綠線裡的是國家森林區
04:17
And then over to the left is Bureau of Land Management land and some private land.
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左邊是國土管理局所有地及一些私有地
04:21
Now, as it happened, that two-mile-long strip right in the middle,
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剛好在這中間有個二英里的長條縱向地帶
04:24
this vertical, was available because it was private land.
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是我們可以使用的,因為不是國有地
04:30
And thanks to Jay Walker who was here and Mitch Kapor who was here,
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感謝傑·沃克和米奇·凱普那時在那邊的幫忙
04:34
who started the process, Long Now was able to get that two-mile-long strip of land.
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我們才有可能購買到這二英里的地
04:40
And now let's look at the grand truth of what's there.
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讓我們看看裡面有什麼吧
04:43
We're in Pole Canyon, looking west up the western escarpment
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我們現在在Pole峽谷,西眺華盛頓山脈的
04:47
of Mount Washington, which is 11,600 feet on top.
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西側懸崖,有3500多公尺之高
04:52
Those white cliffs are a dense Cambrian limestone.
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那些白色懸崖是由寒武紀石灰岩構成的
04:55
That's a 2,000-foot thick formation,
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有600公尺厚
04:58
and it might be a beautiful place to hide a clock.
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應該會是藏鐘的好地點
05:03
It would be a pilgrimage to get to it; it would be a serious hike
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只有像是朝聖的登山客才會來到這種地方
05:06
to get up to where the clock is.
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發現到萬年鐘
05:09
So last June, the Long Now board, some staff and some donors
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所以去年6月永續的董事會成員,職員、贊助者
05:14
and advisors, made a two-week expedition to the mountain
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以及一些顧問花了兩週在那考察
05:19
to explore it and investigate, one, if it's the right mountain,
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其一,想去調查看看這是不是合適的山
05:24
and two, if it's the right mountain, how it might actually work for us.
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其二,如果是的話,那該要如何的規劃
05:28
Now Danny Hillis sort of framed the problem.
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丹尼希利斯從另一個角度切入這個難題
05:31
He has a theory of how the overall clock experience should work.
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他有一套關於這個時鐘該怎麼運行的理論
05:34
It's what he calls the seven stages of a mythic adventure.
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他把它稱之為神秘的冒險,總共有7個階段
05:38
It starts with the image. The image is a picture you have in your mind
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第一個是圖像,就是你腦海中浮現的畫面
05:42
of the goal at the end of the journey.
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也就是在旅途終點你希望看到的目標
05:44
In this case it might well be an image of the clock.
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在這個例子裡,就是一個鐘的圖像
05:47
Then there's the point of embarkation, that is, the point of transition
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再來就是啟程,這是一個轉折點
05:51
from ordinary life to being a pilgrim on a quest.
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從一般的生活蛻變到一個朝聖的旅程
05:55
Then -- this is a nice image of it, there's the labyrinth.
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然後,這是一張不錯的圖像,這裡有一個迷宮
05:59
The labyrinth is a concept, it's like a twilight zone,
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這迷宮是個概念,有點像是一個幽暗地帶
06:03
it's a place where it's difficult, where you get disoriented,
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是一個複雜,會讓人在裡面迷路的地方
06:06
maybe you get scared -- but you have to go through it
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走進去一開始或許會害怕,但是得必須撐過去
06:09
if you're going to get to some kind of deep reintegration.
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如此才能抵達類似深層融合地帶
06:12
Then there should always be in sight the draw --
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然後視線之內應該要有一個像燈塔的東西
06:16
a kind of a beacon that draws you on through the labyrinth
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來引領你走過這個迷宮
06:19
to finish the process of getting there.
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來到達目的地
06:22
Now Brian Eno, who's been in the thick of the Long Now process,
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音樂人布萊恩·伊諾,他全程參與了這個永續計畫
06:25
spent two years making a C.D. called "January 7003,"
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花了兩年的時間製作一張專輯,『7003的一月
06:30
and it's "Bell Studies for the Clock of the Long Now."
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以及" 關於萬年鐘的貝爾研究."
06:33
Based on -- parts of it are based on an algorithm that Danny Hillis developed,
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其中一部份是根據丹尼希利斯的演算方法製成的
06:38
so that a peal of 10 bells
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所以10個鐘一組的編鐘
06:40
makes a different peal every day for 10,000 years.
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可以一萬年每天都發出不同的鐘聲
06:44
The Hillis algorithm. 10 factorial gives you that number.
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希利斯的演算方法, 透過10的階乘可以給你這個數字
06:48
And in fact, pretty soon we'll hear the sound.
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實際上,我們馬上就可以聽到聲音
06:51
January 7003. There it is.
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7003的一月,就是這個聲音
06:55
OK, back to Danny's list.
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我們回來到希利斯的7個階段
06:57
Number five of the seven is the payoff. This is it. The climax.
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第5個階段是修成正果的時候,就是這個高潮的時刻
07:01
The goal. The main thing that you're trying to get to.
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終於到達了你的努力的目標
07:05
And then Danny says a really great journey will have a secret payoff.
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後來希利斯說了,一個每一個偉大的旅程都會有一個外人不得而知的收穫
07:09
Something you didn't expect that caps what you did expect.
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一個你意想不到的收穫
07:13
Then there's the return.
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再下來的階段就是-回歸
07:15
You've got to have a gradual return to the ordinary world,
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你漸漸地必須從旅途回到一般的生活
07:18
so you have time to assimilate what you've learned.
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這樣才有時間慢慢體會這中間學到了些什麼
07:22
And then, how about a memento? Number seven.
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最後,第七個-留念
07:26
At the end of it there's something physical,
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再最後會有一些實質上的回饋
07:27
a kind of reward that you take away.
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那種你可以帶走的回饋
07:29
It might be a piece of a core drill of the mountain.
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或許是一個開山的鑽頭
07:31
Something that's just yours.
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或是一些你可以擁有的東西
07:34
How do you study a mountain
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要怎麼用剛剛我們講的東西
07:37
for the kinds of things we're talking about?
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來研究一座山脈呢?
07:39
This is not a normal building project.
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這並不是一般的建築策劃
07:41
What do you look for?
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目標是什麼?
07:42
What are the elements that will most affect your ideas and decisions?
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會有什麼因素來改變你的想法和決定呢?
07:48
Start with borders. If you look on the left side of the cliffs here,
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我們從山沿開始看起,如果你這峭壁的左側
07:51
that's national park. That's sacrosanct --
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是國家公園,沒法動的
07:53
you can't do anything with that. To the right of it is national forest.
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右邊是國家森林區
07:56
There's possibilities. The borders are important.
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是有可能,但在邊界上要很小心
07:59
Other elements were mines, weather, approaches and elevation.
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其他的因素還有-礦井、天氣、進去的難度和攀登的高度
08:07
And especially trees. Look at those things up on top there.
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還有特別是- 樹,我們看看上面
08:10
It turns out that Mount Washington is covered with bristlecone pines.
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後來我們發現在華盛頓山脈覆蓋了一層針毬松
08:14
They're the world's oldest living thing.
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這是全世界最老的生物
08:17
People think they're just the size of shrubs, but that's not actually true.
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大家會認會不就根一般的灌木大小一樣嗎? 但是這不對
08:22
There are trees on that mountain that are 5,000 years old and still living.
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上面有些針毬松活了超過5000年,而且還活著
08:29
The wood is so solid it's like stone, and it lasts for a long time.
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樹木跟石頭一樣硬,而且可以活很久
08:34
So when you do tree ring studies of trunks that are on the mountain,
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所以當你去上去研究樹輪年代時
08:38
some of them go back 10,000 years.
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你會發現有些甚至活了超過一萬年
08:41
The stone itself is absolutely beautiful,
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這"石頭"本身也非常漂亮
08:43
sculpted by millennia of very tough winters up there.
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經過了幾千年的風霜的雕塑
08:47
We had tree ring analysts from the University of Arizona
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我們有來自亞歷桑那大學的樹輪專家
08:50
join us on the expedition.
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加入我們的探勘隊
08:52
Now, if you guys have a pine cone handy,
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現在,如果你們手邊有松球
08:54
now's a good time to put it in your hand and feel it, especially on the end.
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現在正是時候可以放在手上,去感受它,特別是在尾端的地方
08:59
That's interesting.
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非常有趣地
09:01
You'll find out why it's called a bristlecone pine. A little sensory experience.
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你會非現在為什麼它們叫針毬松,可以感覺的到
09:07
Here's Danny Hillis in the midst of a bristlecone pine forest
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這張是在針毬松樹林裡的丹尼希利斯
09:12
on Long Now land. I should say that the age of bristlecones
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在永續基金會的領地上。我剛剛應該講,這個針毬松的年齡的算法
09:17
was discovered, led by a theory.
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是有一個理論的
09:20
Edmund Schulman in the 1950s
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艾德瑪舒曼在1950年代
09:22
had been studying trees under great stress at Timberline,
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研究在樹帶界線上的樹木(這些樹木承受比較大的壓力)
09:26
and came to the realization that he put in an article in Science magazine
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然後把他的研究成果發表在<科學>雜誌裡
09:29
called, "Longevity under Adversity in Conifers."
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叫做" 困境造就的長壽針葉樹"
09:35
And then, based on that principle, he started looking around
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然後,根據這個理論,他開始觀察
09:38
at the various trees at Timberline,
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其他也在樹帶界線上的的樹木
09:40
and realized that the bristlecone pines --
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然後才發現在懷特山脈的針毬松
09:42
he found some in the White Mountains that were over 4,000 years old.
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已經有4000多年的歷史了
09:47
Longevity under adversity is a pretty interesting design principle in its own right.
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困境造就的長壽本身也是很有趣的理論
09:52
OK, onto the mines. The first asking price for the property
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好,再來是礦井
09:56
when we looked at it in 1998 was one billion dollars for 180 acres and a couple of mines.
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我們1998年第一次看的時候,要價是十億元可以買180英畝及裡面的一些礦井
10:06
Because the owner said, "There's one billion dollars of beryllium in that mountain."
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因為賣方說" 山裡面有值十億元的鈹"
10:10
And we said, "Wow, that's great. Listen, we'll counter. How about zero?
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然後我們說"哇!太棒了。聽著,我們覺的不妥,可以免費給我們嗎?
10:15
(Laughter)
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(笑聲)
10:17
And we're a non-profit foundation, you can give us the property
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我們是非營利的組織,你可以給我們這塊地
10:21
and take a hell of a tax deduction.
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然後又可以拿來減稅
10:24
(Laughter)
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(笑聲)
10:27
All you have to do is prove to the government it's worth a billion dollars."
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你唯一要做的事就是像政府證明這山的確有價值十億元”
10:30
Well, a few years went by and there was some kind of back and forth,
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後來,我們討價還價了幾年後
10:32
and by and by, thanks to Mitch and Jay,
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也謝謝米奇和傑
10:34
we were able to buy the whole property for 140,000 dollars.
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我們終於用了14萬美金買了那塊地
10:39
This is one of the mines. It doesn't have any beryllium in it.
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這是其中一個礦井,裡面根本沒有鈹
10:43
It's called the Pole Adit. And it does have tungsten,
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叫做Pole Adit,但是有鎢礦
10:47
a little bit of tungsten, left over, that's the kind of mine it was.
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一些殘留的鎢礦,之前含有的礦就是這種
10:50
But it goes a mile-and-a-half in a straight line,
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但是這些鎢礦在直線一英里的深處
10:52
due east into the range, into very interesting territory -- except that,
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一直延伸到東邊一個非常奇特的地方
10:58
as you'll see when we go inside in a minute,
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你們馬上會看到
11:01
we were hoping for limestone but in there is just shale.
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我們本來想說會看到石灰岩,但是在裡面的卻是頁岩
11:05
And shale is not quite completely competent rock.
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頁岩並不是很堅硬的岩石
11:08
Competent rock is rock that will hold itself up without any shoring.
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堅硬的岩石不用任何支撐物就可以穩定在那
11:12
The shale would like some shoring,
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頁岩是要支撐物的
11:14
and so parts of it are caved in in there.
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所以頁岩的某些部份是陷在山壁裡面的
11:16
That's Ben Roberts from -- he's the bat specialist from the National Park.
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這是這個國家公園的蝙蝠專家-班羅伯茲
11:20
But there are many wonders back in there, like this weird fungus
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除此之外裡面還有很多奇景,像這些奇怪的真菌
11:24
on some of the collapsed timbers.
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就直接長在這些倒下的樹木上
11:26
OK, here's another mine that's up on top of the property,
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這是另一個礦井,在山頭上
11:30
and it dates back to 1870.
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可追朔到1870年
11:32
That's what the property was originally built around --
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這就一開始在這土地開發礦山的原因
11:34
it was a set of mining claims. It was a very productive silver mine.
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當時有非常豐富的銀礦
11:39
In fact, it was the highest-operating mine in Nevada,
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事實上,這是當時內華達州開採最盛的礦山
11:42
and it ran year round.
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全年無休
11:44
You can imagine what it was like in the winter at 10,000 feet.
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你可以想像當時在一萬英尺高採礦的情景
11:47
You may recognize a couple of the miners there.
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你們或許會認出一些礦工
11:50
There's Jeff Bezos on the right and Paul Saville on the left looking for galena,
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站在右邊的是傑夫貝佐斯,左邊的是保羅薩維爾,他們正在找方鉛礦
11:56
which is the lead-silver thing. They didn't find any.
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但是沒有找到
12:01
They both kept their day jobs. Here's the last mine.
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他們本身都有早上的工作,這是最後一個礦井
12:06
It's called the Bonanza Adit. It's down in a canyon.
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叫作- 豐收平坑,就在峽谷底
12:08
And Alexander Rose on the left there worked with a bunch of people
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站在左邊的亞歷山大羅斯,和一些來自這國家公園的人
12:12
from the National Park to survey the whole mine. It's a mile deep.
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一起探勘這整個礦井,有一英里深
12:15
And they also found four species of bats in there.
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他們還在裡面找到了四種不同種類的蝙蝠
12:18
Now, almost all those mines, by the way, meet underneath the mountain.
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幾乎所有的礦井在山的下面都是互通的
12:22
They don't quite, but it's something to think about.
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並不是很相通,但是滿值的思考的
12:25
They don't quite meet.
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並不是很相通
12:27
Let's go to weather. Mountains specialize in interesting weather.
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再來是-天氣,山上的天氣特別有趣
12:33
Way more interesting than Monterey even today.
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甚至比現在的蒙特雷有趣
12:36
And so one Tuesday morning last June, there we were.
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所以在去年六月的一個星期二 ,我們在那
12:39
Woke up in the morning -- the mountain was covered with snow.
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一早起來,整坐山蓋滿了雪
12:42
That was a great time to go up and visit our weather station which again,
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那是去我們的氣候站非常好的時間
12:46
thanks to Mitch Kapor, we're building up there.
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再一次感謝米奇·凱普,我們能在那建立氣象站
12:49
And it's a pretty interesting scene.
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這是一幅不錯的景像
12:52
This is, on the left there, the joyful lady is Pat Irwin,
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站在左邊非常開懐的女士- 帕特歐文
12:55
who's the regional head of the National Forest Service,
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他是這國家森林服務區的區域主管
12:58
and they gave us the temporary use permit to be there.
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她給了我們在那的短期的使用權
13:02
We want a temporary use permit for the clock, eventually --
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但最終我們要可以放置萬年鐘的許可
13:04
10,000-year temporary use permit.
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一萬年的”短期”使用權
13:06
(Laughter)
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(笑聲)
13:08
The weather station's pretty interesting.
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這個氣象站非常有趣
13:10
Kurt Bollacker and Alexander Rose designed a radically wireless station.
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庫爾特伯拉克和亞歷山大羅斯設計了一個全新的無線氣象站
13:14
It runs on solar, and it sends a signal
with that antenna
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它是由太陽供電,然後再由這個天線發射訊號出去
13:17
and bounces it off of micrometeorite trails in the atmosphere
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撞到大氣層裡的微流星體再反射回來
13:23
to a place in Bozeman, Montana, where the data is taken down
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到蒙大拿州的波茲曼接收資料
13:27
and then sent through landlines to San Francisco,
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再透過線路送到舊金山
13:30
where we put the data in real time up on our website.
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我們可以同步的把資料上傳到網站上
13:34
And there you see a week of weather at 9,400 feet on Mount Washington.
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在這你可以看到9400英尺高的華盛頓山脈上一周的天氣
13:40
Let's go to approaches.
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接下來聊- 進去的途境
13:43
As it happens, there are no trails anywhere on Mount Washington,
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剛開始華盛頓山脈並沒有任何一個路徑
13:47
just a few old mining roads like this,
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只有一些以前採礦的路
13:49
so you have to bushwhack everywhere.
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所以必須在叢林中開路
13:50
But there's no bears, and there's no poison oak,
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但這並沒有熊、有毒的橡樹
13:54
and there's basically no people because this place has been empty for a long time.
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這裡基本上也沒有半個人,因為這地方已經空了很久了
14:00
You can hike for days and not encounter anybody.
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你可以登好幾天的山也不會遇到人
14:03
Well, here's a potential approach.
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這裡是一個有可能的路徑
14:05
You need to come up the Lincoln Canyon.
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必須先來到林肯峽谷
14:08
It's this beautiful world all of its own, surrounded by cliffs,
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這裡本身就是一個超漂亮的小天地,四周被峭壁環繞著
14:11
and it's an easy hike to stroll up the canyon bottom,
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可以很輕鬆走到峽谷底
14:15
until you get to this barrier, and it actually presents a problem.
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直接來到了這個地方,就會有個難題
14:22
So you can scratch Lincoln Canyon as an approach.
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所以基本上可以放棄林肯峽谷這個途徑
14:27
Another possible approach is right up the western front of the mountain.
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另一個有可能的途徑是從西側的山邊山去
14:30
You can see why we sometimes call it Long Mountain.
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你可以理解我們為什麼有時候又叫它長山脈
14:33
And from where you're standing at 6,000 feet in the valley,
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從你站在6000英里高山谷上
14:36
it's an easy hike up to the mature pinyon and juniper forest
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可以輕鬆地通過那7600英尺高的小圓丘
14:39
through that knoll at the front at 7,600 feet.
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徒步到矮松和檜柏林地帶
14:41
And you can carry right on up through meadows
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再繼續往上走通過草原地帶
14:44
and steepening forest to the high base of the cliffs at 10,500 feet,
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陡峭的森林,直到這個10500英尺懸崖的平台
14:49
where there's a bit of a problem.
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這裡又有問題了
14:52
Now, Jeff Bezos advised us when he left at the end of the expedition,
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傑夫貝佐斯在探勘結束時建議我們
14:57
"Make the clock inaccessible.
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"讓萬年鐘無法到達”
15:01
The harder it is to get to, the more people will value it."
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"越難到達的地方才會有人珍惜它"
15:05
And check -- those are 600-foot vertical walls there.
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看,這是600英尺高的牆壁
15:10
So Alexander Rose wanted to explore this route,
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亞歷山大羅斯想要試探這個路徑
15:15
and he started over here on the left from his pickup truck
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然後他從左邊這開始開他的小貨車
15:19
at 8,900 feet and headed up the mountain.
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在8900英尺他開始往山上開
15:22
Now, as you gain elevation your IQ goes down --
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你會發現,隨著海拔的升高,你的智商跟著降低
15:26
(Laughter)
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(笑聲)
15:28
but your emotional affect goes up,
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但你的情緒也會隨之高漲
15:30
which is great for having a mythic experience,
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這對神秘之旅的經驗算是很棒的
15:33
whether you want to or not.
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無論你想不想要
15:35
In fact, Danny Hillis can estimate altitude
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事實上,丹尼希利斯可以透過
15:38
by how much math he can't do in his head.
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他能不能算數學來估計海拔高度
15:41
(Laughter)
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(笑聲)
15:44
Now, I happened to be on the radio with Alexander
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那時候我剛好有和亞歷山大透過話機對到話
15:46
when he got to this point at the base of the cliffs, and he said, quote,
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當他到達了這懸崖的基部,他說 -
15:51
"There's a hidden notch. I think I can get up a ways."
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這裡有個隱型的切口,我想我可以想法子過去
15:56
Now, he's a rock climber, but you know, he's our executive director.
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他是一個攀登者,但你們知道,他也是我們的執行總監
16:00
I don't want him killed. I know he's going to love cliffs.
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我知道他很熱愛攀登,但我才不想讓他因此喪命
16:02
I'm saying, "Be careful, be careful, be careful."
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所以我說" 小心一點,要小心耶!"
16:05
Then he starts going up, and the next thing I hear is,
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然後他就開始往上爬,接下來我聽到的是
16:08
"I'm half-way up. It's like climbing stairs. I'm going up 60 degrees.
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" 我已經爬到一半了!跟爬樓梯一樣,我現在是60度往上爬,
16:14
It's a secret passage. It's like something from Tolkien."
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這裡有個秘密通道,跟托爾金的小說講的一樣”
16:18
And I'm going, "Careful, careful. Please be careful."
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我還是叫他" 小心、小心、請你小心一點呀!"
16:21
And then, of course, the next thing I hear is,
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當然,之後我再聽到的是
16:22
"I've made it to the top. You can see all of creation from up here."
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"我到終於到山頂了,你可以看到所有的造化的萬物啊!"
16:25
And he dashed across the top of the mountains.
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然後他在整個山頂狂奔了一陣子
16:28
In fact, there he is. That's Alexander Rose.
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這個就是他,亞歷山大羅斯
16:30
First ascent of the western face to Mount Washington,
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第一個從西側爬上華盛頓山脈的人
16:33
and a solo ascent at that.
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並且是獨立完成的
16:37
This discovery changed everything about our sense of these cliffs
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這個發現讓我們對這整個山脈有了不同的想法
16:40
and what to do with them.
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以及如何處置它
16:42
We realized that we had to name this thing that Alexander discovered.
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我們發現我們必須命名亞歷山大發現到的東西
16:46
How about Zander's Crevice? No.
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山大的裂縫? 不
16:50
(Laughter)
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(笑聲)
16:54
So we finally decided on Alexander's Siq.
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我們最後決定命名為 "亞歷山大之狹縫"
16:57
Zander's Siq is named after -- some of you have been to Petra,
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山大的隙縫的來由是 --如果你們有到過佩特拉
17:00
there's this wonderful slot canyon that leads into Petra
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那裡有個非常漂亮的狹縫山谷,引領到佩特拉
17:04
called the Siq, and so this is the Siq.
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叫做”狹縫”
17:06
And it really is hidden. I can't find it in this image,
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這真的是隱藏的,我無法在這照片上找到
17:09
and I'm not sure you can.
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我也不認為你可以看的到
17:10
Only when you get fresh snow can you see just along the rim there,
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只有當剛下完雪的時候,在沿著縫的邊上
17:14
and that brings it out.
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會浮現出來
17:16
Now, Danny and I were up at this same area one day,
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有一天,我和丹尼爬山了同一個地方
17:18
and Danny looked over to the right
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丹尼看了右手邊
17:20
and noticed something halfway up the cliffs,
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發現在半山腰有個東西
17:23
which is a kind of a porch or a cliff shelf with bristlecones on it,
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有點像是一個突出來的平台,上面還有針毬松
17:27
and supposed that people going up to the clock inside the mountain
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設想看看,假如有人要去找藏在山裡的萬年鐘
17:31
could come out onto that shelf and look down at the view.
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可以從這個小平台走出來往下看
17:35
And the people toiling up the mountain could see them,
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那些跋山涉水的登山客可以從下面看到他們
17:38
these tiny little people up there, incredibly halfway up the cliff.
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納悶著竟然會有人爬到半山腰上了
17:41
How did they get there? Do I have to do that?
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會想著 "他們怎麼辦到的?","我要這麼做嗎?"
17:44
And so that maybe becomes part of the draw and part of the labyrinth.
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這或許會變成萬年鐘吸引力的一部份或迷宮的一部份
17:47
You can get another angle on Danny's porch
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你可以從另一個角度看丹尼發現的小平台
17:51
by going around to the south and looking north at the whole formation there.
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經由繞過南側向北眺望整個山景
17:58
And you need to know that Danny's clock is to be kept accurate
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必須要了解,萬年鐘要要維持非常精準
18:01
by a ray of sunshine, that perfect noon hitting it every sunny day,
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藉由日照、正午的曝曬
18:06
and the pulse of heat from that sets off a solar trigger
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再把產出出來的熱能啟動一個太陽能開關
18:09
which resets the clock to make it perfectly accurate.
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這個裝置就能重新效正時間,讓萬年鐘的時間非常準確
18:12
So even with the slowing of the rotation of the earth and so on,
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從所即便地球的自轉變慢了或有其他之類的是發生
18:14
the clock will keep perfectly good time.
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萬年鐘總是會維持正確的時間
18:17
So here we're looking from the south, look north.
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這是坐南朝北的照片
18:19
This is all Forest Service land. If you go up on top of those cliffs,
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這些全是森林管理區的領地,如果你爬到這懸崖上
18:23
that's some of the Long Now land in those trees.
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你會看到在那樹林裡有我們(永續基金會)的領地
18:26
And if you go up there and look back, then you'll get a sense of
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如果從上面往回看,你會有一種完全不同的感覺
18:31
what the view starts to be like from the top of the mountain.
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好似從最高的山頂看下去,一切都顯得渺小了
18:34
That's the long view. That's 80 miles to the horizon.
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這整個長距離的視野,到最後面的地平線有80英尺
18:38
And that's also timberline and those bristlecones really are shrubs.
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前面的剛好也是樹帶界線,這些針毬松確是是灌木
18:42
That's a different place to be. It's 11,400 feet and it's exquisite.
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那裡是完全不一樣的地方,高11400英尺,非常優美
18:50
Now, if you go over to the right from this image to looking at the edge of the cliffs,
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如果從這照片的右邊看下去
18:54
it's 600 foot, just about a yard to the left of Kurt Bollacker's foot,
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這有600英尺高,就在庫爾特伯拉克左邊一碼之遠處
18:58
there is a 600-foot drop. He's ambling on over to Zander's Siq.
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剛好垂直高度600英尺,他正漫步向"山大的狹縫”走過去
19:03
That's what it looks like looking down it.
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這是從上往下眺望的樣子
19:07
We should probably put in a rail or something.
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我們應該做些圍欄之類的東西
19:11
Over on the eastern side it's gentle, as you can see.
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東側相較之下確比較平緩,仔細看
19:15
And that's not snow -- that's what the white limestone looks like.
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那些並不是雪,白色的石灰岩長的就是這樣子
19:18
You also see there a bighorn sheep.
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你也可以看到這隻大角羊
19:22
Their herd was reintroduced from Wyoming.
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這一批是從懷俄明州引進來的
19:25
And they're doing pretty well, but they've got a bit of trouble.
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牠們過的其實還不錯,但是有遇到一點點的問題
19:28
This is Danny Hillis, and he's figuring out a design problem.
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這是丹尼希利斯,他正在想一個設計上的問題
19:31
he's trying to determine if where he is on a bit of Long Now land
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他在想他站的地方(永續)是不是
19:36
would appear from down in the valley to be the actual peak of the mountain.
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從山谷下看,會很像真的頂峰
19:42
because the real peak is hidden around the corner.
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因為真的頂峰在角落被埋住了
19:44
This is what in the infantry we used to call the military crest.
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這就是我們在步兵說的"軍事山脊"
19:48
And as it turned out the answer is, yes,
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而結果的確是希利斯想的
19:51
that is from down below in the valley it does look like the peak,
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就是從山谷下看會很像真的頂峰
19:55
and that might be conjured with.
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那只是錯覺而已
19:57
We gradually realized we have three serious design domains to work on with this.
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我們後來慢慢發現有三個設計上的範疇要考慮
20:02
One is the experience of the mountain.
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第一個是對山的體驗
20:04
Another is the experience in the mountain.
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第二個是在山裡面的體驗
20:07
And the third is the experience from the mountain,
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第三個是從山上看的體驗
20:10
which is really dominated by the view shed
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第三點主要由山谷下可看到的視野決定
20:13
of the spring valley there behind Danny,
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看,就在在丹尼的後面
20:17
and if you look off to the right, out there,
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如果你往右邊看,最遠端
20:19
15 miles across to the Schell Creek range.
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15英里遠處就是謝爾河山脈
20:23
In the front, there are 10 ranches strung right along the base of the mountains
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比較前面的地方呢,在山下有10個連在一塊的牧場
20:26
using the water from the mountains.
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利用山上的泉水
20:28
In fact, there are artesian wells where water springs right into the air.
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實際上,在那你還可以看到自流井,水自動從井裡噴出
20:33
One of the ranches is called the Kirkeby Ranch,
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其中一個牧場叫做 Kirkeby牧場
20:36
and I'll take you there for a minute.
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我馬上秀給你看
20:38
It's a very nice ranch.
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那是個非常漂亮的牧場
20:40
Alfalfa and cattle, run by Paul and Ronnie Brenham,
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紫花苜蓿和牛群,這是由保羅和羅尼布萊嫩經營的
20:45
and it's pretty idyllic. It's also hard work.
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很有田園風光之美,同時間他們也花很多精力在上面
20:50
And most of these ranches are having trouble keeping going.
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大部份這些牧場都經營不太下去
20:52
This is their view to the west of the Schell Creek range.
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這是從他們牧場這往謝爾河山脈的西側看過去
20:56
And if you go out to that line of trees at the far end,
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如果你走到最前面的樹林
20:59
you'll see what the valley used to look like.
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你會發現山谷以前的樣貌
21:03
This is Rocky Mountain junipers that have been there for thousands of years.
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這個是洛基山脈的檜木,已經在這裡有千年之久了
21:08
And a scheme emerged that Long Now is looking to see
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後來 永續基金會在想是否可以
21:11
if it might be possible to buy up the whole valley,
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想看看是否有可能買下這整個山谷
21:14
because those 10 ranches with their 17,000 acres
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因為那10個牧場以及他們17000英畝的地
21:18
dominate a 500 square mile valley with their grazing allotments and so on,
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含蓋了500平方英里的山谷以及其他牧場的草地等等
21:23
and there's a possibility that you could get the whole thing
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也的確有可能買下這整片土地
21:26
for five million dollars and gradually restore it to its wild condition,
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用五百萬買了,然後再慢慢的讓它回復到大自然的樣貌
21:30
and somewhere in the process turn it back over to the National Park,
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在這中間可以把他變成國家公園
21:34
and it would double the size of Great Basin National Park. That would be swell.
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藉此,大盆地國家公園就會有兩倍大,那就太棒了
21:38
OK, let's take one more look at the mountain itself.
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好,我們最再看一下這整坐山
21:41
The clock experience should be profound,
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這整個萬年鐘的經驗應該是很深奧的
21:45
but from the outside it should be invisible.
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但從外面應該看不出來
21:49
Now, at the base of the high cliffs there's this natural cave.
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在懸崖的下方有一個天然的洞穴
21:53
It's only about 12 feet deep, but what if it were deepened from inside?
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只有三點多公尺深,但如果在裡面再挖深呢?
21:57
You excavated from somewhere, came up from inside and deepened it.
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你從外面開始開鑿,挖到裡面後再從裡面往深處鑿
22:00
And then you could have an entrance
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之後就會有個入口
22:01
which was very rough and narrow as you first went in,
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一開始進去會很窄和困難
22:04
that gradually becomes more refined and then actually quite exquisite.
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但會越來越平順,甚至變得很精美
22:08
And this stone takes a perfect polish.
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這塊石頭可以是算是非常有品味的
22:11
You'd have a polished set of passages and chambers in there
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一開始會一條非常精美的通道和小洞穴
22:16
eventually leading to the 10,000 year clock.
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最終引領到萬年鐘
22:20
And it's not a mine. This would be a nuanced evocation
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這不是礦山,而只是
22:24
of the basic structure of the mountain,
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一個山脈的基本結構被喚起而已
22:27
and you would be appreciating it as much from inside as you do from outside.
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你不管從裡面或外面都會被這作山給震懾住
22:30
This is architecture not made by building,
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這並不是一般樓房的建築
22:33
but by what you very carefully take away.
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而是你仔細體會才能得到的
22:37
So that's what the mountain taught us.
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這是大山教我們的智慧
22:40
Most of the amazingness of the clock
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萬年鐘最驚人的地方就是
22:43
we can borrow from the amazingness of the mountain.
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我們可以得到這份驚奇
22:47
All we have to do is highlight its spectacular features and blend in with them.
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只要點綴出它驚奇之處,再與之相融
22:51
It's not a clock in a mountain -- it's a mountain clock.
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這並不是鐘在山裡面,而是-"萬年鐘"山
22:56
Now, the Tewa Indians in the Southwest have a saying
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特瓦族印第安人有句名言
22:58
for what you need to do when you want to think long term about anything.
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當你把每件事都以看遠方的態度來思考時
23:04
They say, "pin peya obe" -- welcome to the mountain.
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他們說 : pin peya obe ,歡迎來到山裡
23:11
Thank you.
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謝謝
23:13
(Applause)
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(掌聲)
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