The power of the Afro pick | Small Thing Big Idea, a TED series

166,390 views ・ 2020-02-04

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00:00
Transcriber: TED Translators admin Reviewer: Camille Martínez
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翻译人员: Yanyan Hong 校对人员: Wanting Zhong
00:12
You don't really look at a toothbrush and say,
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你不会看着牙刷说,
00:14
"I'm great!"
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“我超棒!”
00:15
But when you look at an Afro pick, which is a grooming tool,
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但当你看着非洲式梳子 这种梳洗工具时,
00:18
it can remind you in your subconscious to, like,
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它能在潜意识里提醒你,
00:20
really be proud and, like, "All right."
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要感到自豪,像是, ”不错。“
00:24
[Small thing.]
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【小事物】
00:25
[Big idea.]
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【大智慧】
00:29
An Afro pick is a utilitarian tool
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非洲式梳子是一种实用的工具,
00:32
used to maintain the Afro hairstyle.
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用来保持非洲式发型。
00:36
I think the Afro pick was designed
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我认为非洲式梳子的设计
00:39
for the ergonomics of creating something
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是为了在人体工程学上
00:41
that felt like you were running fingers through your hair.
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符合用手指捋头发的感觉。
00:44
The shape, even the depth that it goes in -- it's like a hand.
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它的形状,甚至是梳头的 深浅度——都像是一只手。
00:47
You have plastic or nylon teeth,
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梳齿有塑料的或尼龙的,
00:51
and then you have the stainless steel or the nickel teeth.
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还有不锈钢或镍制的。
00:54
I always prefer the metal tooth
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我一直偏爱金属的梳齿,
00:56
just 'cause I like the sound
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只是因为我喜欢它的声响,
00:58
and the ones I know have the black power fist on the handle.
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而且我知道它们的手柄上 有象征黑人力量的拳头。
01:01
When I think of black hair in America,
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当我想到美国的黑人发型,
01:04
I think of something that's been policed.
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我想到的是它受到的监管。
01:06
Back in the days, it was expected for black people
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在过去,大家都指望黑人
01:09
to chemically treat their hair.
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对他们的头发做化学处理。
01:10
Whether that's healthy for them is a secondary thing to blending in.
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融入社会比他们的健康更重要。
01:15
In the 50s, dancer Ruth Beckford and a lot of jazz singers
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在上世纪 50 年代,舞者露丝·贝克福德 (Ruth Beckford)和许多爵士歌手
01:18
were tired of straightening their hair,
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都厌倦了弄直头发,
01:20
so they said, all right, we're going to just let it grow naturally
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于是他们说,好吧, 我们要让头发自然生长,
01:23
and started rocking natural, close-cropped hair.
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开始留起自然的、剪得很短的发型。
01:26
And in the 60s, that style evolved
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而到了 60 年代, 发型发生了改变,
01:29
with the formation of the Afro,
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形成了黑人卷发(Afro),
01:31
which was the cropped hair, natural, picked out
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也就是把剪短过的天然头发梳出来,
01:34
into a more spherical shape.
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做成更加球型的样式。
01:37
You had civil rights leaders, activists, that adopted the hairstyle
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民权领袖、活动家都采用了这种发型,
01:42
as a means of rebellion and black pride.
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代表黑人的骄傲和反抗的手段。
01:44
And then you had musicians like James Brown,
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接着,像詹姆斯 · 布朗 (James Brown)这样的音乐家,
01:47
who was infamously known for chemically straightening his hair,
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过去曾因用化学试剂 把头发弄直而备受恶评,
01:50
reject that and go natural.
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他摈弃了直发,走起了自然风格。
01:51
It went hand-in-hand with his music,
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这与他的音乐相得益彰,
01:53
so he had songs like "Say it Loud, I'm Black and I'm Proud."
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比如《大声叫,我是黑人我骄傲》 这样的歌曲。
01:56
The black is beautiful movement
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“黑即美” 的社会运动
01:58
is just rejecting the notion that to be black
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对抗的是认为 “黑皮肤、
02:01
or to have darker skin, to have a curlier grade of hair,
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深色皮肤和卷曲的头发
02:04
was something to be ashamed of.
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是令人羞耻的” 这种想法。
02:06
I have one of my favorite pictures of my mother
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我有一张很喜欢的照片,
02:09
and my grandmother,
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里面是我的妈妈和祖母,
02:10
and my grandmother had a small 'fro,
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我的祖母就有小黑卷,
02:13
and that was in the 60s.
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而这是在 60 年代拍摄的。
02:14
African hair combs date back to 3500 BCE.
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非洲式梳子可以 追溯到公元前 3500 年,
02:18
The oldest African combs are found in ancient Egypt and Sudan,
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最早的非洲式梳子 出现在古埃及和苏丹,
02:23
so they were making pyramids and combs.
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也就是说他们在造金字塔和梳子。
02:26
The way the ancient African combs were embellished
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古代的非洲式梳子上的装饰
02:29
represented status or tribal affiliation.
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象征着地位或所属部落。
02:32
It's no coincidence that the fist on the modern Afro pick
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现代的非洲式梳子上的拳头
02:37
also sets the tone for affiliation
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也奠定了归属和诉求的基调,
02:39
and what set you claim.
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这点并非巧合。
02:42
And then there's the Black Power movement.
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接着,就有了 “黑人权力” 运动。
02:44
Most movements need their icons, right?
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大多数运动都需要有标志物,对吧?
02:46
You have the fist, you have the 'fro.
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比如拳头,还有黑人发型。
02:48
These things coincide with the Black Panther aesthetic,
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这些东西很符合黑豹党的美学,
02:51
where you could kind of spot your tribe from afar,
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这样从很远的地方就能看到你的党派,
02:54
because you're not just keeping a pick in, like, your beauty kit.
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因为你不只是把梳子放在化妆包里,
02:57
It's in your back pocket,
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它可以放进裤子后的口袋里,
02:58
purposely with the first outside of it,
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故意把拳头标志露在外面,
03:01
and in your hair, you'll rock it in your 'fro.
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也可以插在你的黑人卷发里。
03:03
If I think about iconic Afros,
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如果让我去想象征性的黑人卷,
03:05
I definitely think about Angela Davis.
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我肯定会想到安吉拉 · 戴维斯 (Angela Davis)。
03:07
Her 'fro personifies elegance, style,
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她的黑人卷发象征着优雅、风格、
03:10
freedom, rebellion.
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自由、反抗。
03:12
You feel all of these feelings at once
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看到安吉拉·戴维斯 站在法庭上为她的生命而战时,
03:14
when you see Angela Davis fighting for her life in federal court.
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你能同时感受到这些情感。
03:17
By the 80s, the Afro style became less radical.
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到了 80 年代,非洲发型 变得不再那么激进。
03:21
The Afro picks are still produced to this day
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时至今日,非洲式梳子上
03:23
with the clenched fist,
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仍有紧握的拳头,
03:24
so it's the remnants of the movement
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这是当年的社会运动
03:26
in the everyday object.
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在日常生活用品上残留的痕迹。
03:29
When I was young, it was just, like, another object.
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小时候,我觉得它只不过是一件物品。
03:31
It was a comb.
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它就是把梳子。
03:33
But as I became more enlightened
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但当我明白了更多事情,
03:35
to really understand the roots and the origin
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真正了解了它的根源和起源、
03:37
and the intentionality of the design
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它的设计意图、
03:40
and why the fist and all of these things ...
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为什么有拳头,所有这一切……
03:44
I woke up.
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我觉醒了。
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