The power of the Afro pick | Small Thing Big Idea, a TED series

163,778 views ・ 2020-02-04

TED


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00:00
Transcriber: TED Translators admin Reviewer: Camille Martínez
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Prevoditelj: Neda Vrkic Recezent: Sanda L
00:12
You don't really look at a toothbrush and say,
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Zapravo ne pogledate četkicu za zube i kažete,
00:14
"I'm great!"
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"Odlično sam!"
00:15
But when you look at an Afro pick, which is a grooming tool,
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Ali kad pogledate afro češalj, koji je alat za dotjerivanje,
00:18
it can remind you in your subconscious to, like,
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može vas u vašoj podsvijesti podsjetiti na, kao,
00:20
really be proud and, like, "All right."
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to da budete stvarno ponosni, kao, "U redu."
00:24
[Small thing.]
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[Mala stvar.]
00:25
[Big idea.]
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[Velika ideja.]
00:29
An Afro pick is a utilitarian tool
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Afro češalj je praktičan alat
00:32
used to maintain the Afro hairstyle.
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korišten za održavanje afro frizura.
00:36
I think the Afro pick was designed
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Mislim da je afro češalj dizajniran
00:39
for the ergonomics of creating something
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za ergonomiju stvaranja nečega
00:41
that felt like you were running fingers through your hair.
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kao da imate osjećaj da prstima prolazite kroz kosu.
00:44
The shape, even the depth that it goes in -- it's like a hand.
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Oblik, čak i dubina kojom ulazi -- poput ruke je.
00:47
You have plastic or nylon teeth,
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Imate plastične ili najlonske zupce
00:51
and then you have the stainless steel or the nickel teeth.
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i onda imate zupce od nehrđajućeg čelika ili nikla.
00:54
I always prefer the metal tooth
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Uvijek više volim metalni zubac
00:56
just 'cause I like the sound
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samo zato jer volim zvuk
00:58
and the ones I know have the black power fist on the handle.
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i one za koje znam da imaju šaku crne moći na dršci.
01:01
When I think of black hair in America,
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Kad mislim o crnoj kosi u Americi,
01:04
I think of something that's been policed.
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mislim o nečemu što je bilo kontrolirano.
01:06
Back in the days, it was expected for black people
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U ono vrijeme, bilo je očekivano od crnaca
01:09
to chemically treat their hair.
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da kemijski tretiraju svoju kosu.
01:10
Whether that's healthy for them is a secondary thing to blending in.
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Je li to zdravo za njih bila je sporedna stvar u usporedbi s uklapanjem.
01:15
In the 50s, dancer Ruth Beckford and a lot of jazz singers
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U 50-ima, plesačica Ruth Beckford i mnogi jazz pjevači
01:18
were tired of straightening their hair,
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bili su umorni od ravnanja svoje kose
01:20
so they said, all right, we're going to just let it grow naturally
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pa su rekli, u redu, pustit ćemo da prirodno raste
01:23
and started rocking natural, close-cropped hair.
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i počeli su ponosno nositi prirodnu, kratko ošišanu kosu.
01:26
And in the 60s, that style evolved
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I u 60-ima, taj se stil razvio
01:29
with the formation of the Afro,
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oblikovanjem afro frizure,
01:31
which was the cropped hair, natural, picked out
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koja je bila ošišana kosa, prirodna, raščešljana
01:34
into a more spherical shape.
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u više sferični oblik.
01:37
You had civil rights leaders, activists, that adopted the hairstyle
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Imate vođe građanskih prava, aktiviste, koji su prisvojili tu frizuru
01:42
as a means of rebellion and black pride.
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kao sredstva pobune i crnačkog ponosa.
01:44
And then you had musicians like James Brown,
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I onda ste imali glazbenike poput James Browna,
koji je neslavno bio poznat po kemijskom ravnanju svoje kose,
01:47
who was infamously known for chemically straightening his hair,
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01:50
reject that and go natural.
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koji to odbacuje i pušta kosu.
01:51
It went hand-in-hand with his music,
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Išlo je ruku pod ruku s njegovom glazbom,
01:53
so he had songs like "Say it Loud, I'm Black and I'm Proud."
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pa je imao pjesme poput "Reci glasno, ja sam crn i ponosan."
01:56
The black is beautiful movement
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Pokret Crno je prekrasno
01:58
is just rejecting the notion that to be black
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samo je odbacivanje pojma da je biti crn
02:01
or to have darker skin, to have a curlier grade of hair,
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ili imati tamniju kožu, imati kovrčaviji stupanj kose,
02:04
was something to be ashamed of.
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nešto čega se trebalo sramiti.
02:06
I have one of my favorite pictures of my mother
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Imam jednu od najdražih slika moje majke
02:09
and my grandmother,
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i moje bake,
02:10
and my grandmother had a small 'fro,
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i moja baka je imala malu afro,
02:13
and that was in the 60s.
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i to je bilo u 60-ima.
02:14
African hair combs date back to 3500 BCE.
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Afrički češljevi za kosu datiraju iz 3500. g. pr. Kr.
02:18
The oldest African combs are found in ancient Egypt and Sudan,
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Najstariji afrički češljevi nađeni su u drevnom Egiptu i Sudanu,
02:23
so they were making pyramids and combs.
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dakle pravili su piramide i češljeve.
02:26
The way the ancient African combs were embellished
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Način na koji su drevni afrički češljevi bili ukrašeni
02:29
represented status or tribal affiliation.
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predstavljao je status ili plemensku pripadnost.
02:32
It's no coincidence that the fist on the modern Afro pick
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Nije slučajnost da šaka na modernom afro češlju
02:37
also sets the tone for affiliation
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postavlja ton za pripadnost
02:39
and what set you claim.
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i na koje društvo polažete pravo.
02:42
And then there's the Black Power movement.
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I onda je tu Pokret crne moći.
02:44
Most movements need their icons, right?
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Većina pokreta treba svoje ikone, zar ne?
02:46
You have the fist, you have the 'fro.
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Imate šaku, imate afro.
02:48
These things coincide with the Black Panther aesthetic,
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Ove stvari se podudaraju s estetikom Crne pantere,
02:51
where you could kind of spot your tribe from afar,
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gdje biste nekako mogli uočiti svoje pleme izdaleka,
02:54
because you're not just keeping a pick in, like, your beauty kit.
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jer ne nosite češalj samo kao pribor za uljepšavanje.
02:57
It's in your back pocket,
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U vašem stražnjem džepu je,
02:58
purposely with the first outside of it,
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sa šakom koja namjerno viri,
03:01
and in your hair, you'll rock it in your 'fro.
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i u vašoj kosi, ponosno ga nosite u vašoj kosi.
03:03
If I think about iconic Afros,
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Kad razmišljam o ikoničnim afro frizurama,
03:05
I definitely think about Angela Davis.
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definitivno mislim o Angeli Davis.
03:07
Her 'fro personifies elegance, style,
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Njena afro oličava eleganciju, stil,
03:10
freedom, rebellion.
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slobodu, pobunu.
03:12
You feel all of these feelings at once
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Osjećate sve ove osjećaje odjednom
03:14
when you see Angela Davis fighting for her life in federal court.
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kad vidite Angelu Davis kako se na saveznom sudu bori za svoj život.
03:17
By the 80s, the Afro style became less radical.
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Do 80-ih, afro stil postao je manje radikalan.
03:21
The Afro picks are still produced to this day
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Afro češljevi još se uvijek proizvode
03:23
with the clenched fist,
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sa stisnutom šakom,
03:24
so it's the remnants of the movement
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i tu su ti ostaci pokreta
03:26
in the everyday object.
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u svakodnevnim predmetima.
03:29
When I was young, it was just, like, another object.
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Kad sam bio mlad, bio je samo kao bilo koji predmet.
03:31
It was a comb.
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To je bio češalj.
03:33
But as I became more enlightened
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Ali kad sam došao do spoznaje
03:35
to really understand the roots and the origin
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da stvarno razumijem korijene i podrijetlo
03:37
and the intentionality of the design
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i hotimičnost dizajna
03:40
and why the fist and all of these things ...
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i zašto šaka i sve ove stvari ...
03:44
I woke up.
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Probudio sam se.
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