How adaptive clothing empowers people with disabilities | Mindy Scheier

Prevoditelj: Antun Zupanc Recezent: Sanda L

I love fashion.

Obožavam modu.

I actually go to bed every night thinking about what I'm going to wear

Svake večeri odlazim u krevet i razmišljam što ću odjenuti

the next day.

sljedećeg dana.

Clothing transforms me,

Odjeća me mijenja,

defines me,

određuje,

gives me confidence.

čini me samouvjerenom.

You may not feel the same way about fashion,

Možda nemate jednak stav prema modi,

but I bet you have a favorite T-shirt or a pair of jeans that transforms you --

ali sigurno imate omiljenu majicu ili traperice koje vas čine drugačijima --

makes you feel good,

u kojima se osjećate dobro,

makes you feel confident,

u kojima se osjećate samouvjereno

makes you feel like you.

i posebno.

When I was younger,

Kada sam bila mlađa,

I wanted to be Betsey Johnson.

željela sam izgledati kao Betsey Johnson.

I thought we were kindred, crazy-hair spirits together.

Vjerovala sam da smo srodne duše čupavih frizura.

I did go to fashion design,

Završila sam modni dizajn

I worked in the industry for years

i radila u modnoj industriji niz godina,

and loved it.

obožavala sam to.

I married,

Udala sam se

I had three kids.

i dobila troje djece.

But life can be heartbreakingly ironic.

Ali život zna biti okrutno ironičan.

My middle child, Oliver, was born with a rare form of muscular dystrophy,

Srednje dijete, Oliver, rođen je s rijetkim oblikom mišićne distrofije,

or MD.

skraćeno MD.

MD affects his muscle strength,

MD pogađa njegovu mišićnu snagu,

his pulmonary system,

njegov dišni sustav,

distorts his body

iskrivljuje mu tijelo,

and makes everyday life more challenging than most.

što čini njegovu svakodnevicu punom izazova.

From the time he could walk,

Od trenutka kada je prohodao,

which wasn't until about two and a half,

s nekih dvije, dvije i pol godine,

he had to wear leg braces for stability.

morao je nositi proteze zbog stabilnosti.

Because he wasn't growing appropriately,

Uslijed teškoća u razvoju,

he had to wear a feeding tube that was placed on his face.

morao se hraniti putem sonde vidljive na njegovom licu.

He endured stares, and so did I.

Trpio je poglede i ja zajedno s njim.

But my husband Greg and I told him

Moj suprug Greg i ja smo mu govorili

that no matter what,

da bez obzira na sve,

he was just like everybody else.

on je isti kao i svi ostali.

But everyday tasks for Oliver

Oliveru su svakodnevne aktivnosti,

that we all take for granted

koje mi uzimamo zdravo za gotovo,

were incredibly challenging.

bile iznimno teške.

That simple act of dressing yourself -- the very thing that I adore --

Jednostavan čin odijevanja, upravo ono što ja obožavam --

was a nightmare for him.

njemu je bila noćna mora.

His form of MD does not affect his mind.

Njegov oblik MD-a ne utječe na inteligenciju.

His brain is an A-plus,

Njegov je mozak "čista petica",

which means he's acutely aware of his shortcomings.

zbog čega je on itekako svjestan svojih ograničenja.

This became very evident when he started school,

To je postalo vidljivo njegovim polaskom u školu

and that daily act of dressing yourself was a constant reminder

i taj ga svakodnevni čin odijevanja stalno podsjeća

of what he could and could not do.

na to što može, a što ne.

So our solution was for Oliver to wear sweatpants every day:

Naše je rješenje bilo da Oliver svaki dan nosi trenirku:

to school,

u školu,

to parties,

na zabave,

on vacations --

na izlete,

his uniform.

kao svoju uniformu.

For special occasions, he would wear proper pants.

U posebnim prilikama nosio bi prave hlače.

But many times, because he couldn't manage the button and zipper,

Kako sam nije mogao zakopčati gumb i povući zatvarač,

I would have to take him to the men's room,

često sam ga pratila u muški toalet,

which was incredibly embarrassing for him

što je za njega bilo iznimno neugodno,

and the other men that were in there.

ali i za muškarce koji su se tamo našli.

But them -- I said, "Oh, please. There's nothing I haven't seen before."

Njima sam rekla, "Ma dajte, nema tu ništa što već nisam vidjela."

(Laughter)

(Smijeh)

For years we muddled through.

Godinama smo se tako mučili.

But when Oliver was in third grade,

Oliver je bio u trećem razredu,

I found out he was more like me than I ever imagined.

kada sam shvatila koliko smo slični.

Oliver, too, cared about fashion.

I Olivera je zanimala moda.

He came home from school one day and said very definitively

Jednog dana došao je iz škole i odlučno izjavio

that he was going to wear jeans to school like everybody else gets to wear.

da će za školu odjenuti traperice kao i svi ostali.

Well, I certainly couldn't go to class with him

U školu s njim nisam mogla

and take him to the boys' room,

kako bih ga vodila na toalet,

but there was no way I was telling my eight-year-old

no, isto tako nisam mogla reći svom osmogodišnjaku

that he couldn't wear what he wanted to wear.

da ne može nositi ono što želi.

So that night,

Te sam noći

I MacGyvered the hell out of his jeans.

od tih traperica napravila ono nemoguće.

I remembered when I was pregnant

Sjetila sam se svoje trudnoće

and unwilling to stop wearing my own favorite pants,

i svoje odlučnosti da i dalje mogu navući traperice,

even though I was busting out of them,

iako se činilo da će eksplodirati,

that rubber-band trick.

sjetila sam se trika s gumicom.

You moms remember what I'm talking about?

Mame znaju o čemu govorim.

The rubber band through the buttonhole,

Provući gumicu kroz otvor za gumb,

around the button and back?

oko gumba i natrag?

Instant stretch.

I hlače su rastezljive.

So I removed the zipper

Uklonila sam zatvarač

so he could pull it up and down on his own.

kako bi ih sam mogao spustiti i opet navući.

I cut up the side seam of the bottom of his pants

Rasparala sam spojeve na nogavicama

to accommodate for his leg braces,

kako bi mogao provući proteze

applied Velcro --

i ušila čičak --

hold your ears, everybody: peel and stick, mind you --

naćulite uši: odlijepi i zalijepi --

so that it would close around it.

tako da ih pokrije.

When I showed Oliver my arts and crafts project,

Kad sam Oliveru pokazala svoj mali krojački projekt,

he absolutely beamed.

bio je oduševljen.

He went into school with his head held so high.

Otišao je u školu visoko uzdignute glave.

Those jeans transformed him.

Te su ga traperice promijenile.

He was able to get dressed on his own,

Ponovo se mogao sam odjenuti,

he was able to go to the bathroom on his own;

mogao je sam na toalet.

those jeans gave him confidence.

Traperice su mu vratile samopouzdanje.

I didn't realize it at the time,

Tada to još nisam osvijestila,

but this was my first foray into the world of adaptive clothing.

ali to je bio moj prvi korak u svijet prilagođene odjeće.

Adaptive clothing is defined as clothing designed for people with disabilities,

Prilagođena odjeća je odjeća dizajnirana za osobe s teškoćama,

the elderly

za starije osobe

and anyone who struggles with dressing themselves.

i ostale koji imaju teškoće u samostalnom odijevanju.

Adaptive clothing did exist,

Takva je odjeća već postojala,

but it was missing that mainstream fashion component.

ali joj je nedostajala modna komponenta.

It was very medicinal and very functional

Bila je medicinska i vrlo funkcionalna,

but not stylish.

ali ne baš lijepa.

And that's a huge problem,

A to je velik nedostatak,

because what you wear matters.

jer je bitno što nosiš na sebi.

Clothing can affect your mood,

Odjeća može utjecati na vaše raspoloženje,

your health

vaše zdravlje

and your self-esteem.

i na vaše samopouzdanje.

Now, being a fashion lover, I've known this forever,

Kao ljubitelj mode, svjesna sam toga oduvijek.

but scientists actually have a name for it.

Čak i znanost ima naziv za to.

It's called "Enclothed Cognition,"

"Odjevna kognicija",

the co-occurrence of two factors:

pojavnost koja ovisi o dva faktora:

the symbolic meaning of clothing

o simboličkom značenju odjeće

and the physical experience of wearing the clothing,

i tjelesnom doživljaju onog što smo odjenuli.

both of which have a direct correlation to how you feel about yourself.

Oba faktora izravno utječu na to kako se osjećate.

There's actually a professor in the UK by the name of Karen J. Pine.

Profesorica Karen J. Pine iz Velike Britanije

She wrote a book called "Mind What You Wear:

napisala je knjigu "Pazite što ćete odjenuti:

The Psychology of Fashion."

Psihologija mode."

She states in her book

Autorica u knjizi ističe,

that when you put clothes on,

da kada nešto odjenete,

you adapt the characteristics of what you're wearing,

prihvaćate karakteristike onog što ste odjenuli,

whether you realize it or not.

bilo da ste svjesni toga ili ne.

That's why you feel like a rock star

Zbog toga se osjećate poput rock zvijezde

when you put on those perfect-fitting jeans.

kada navučete traperice koje vam savršeno pristaju.

That's why you feel invincible when you put on that power suit,

Zbog toga se osjećate nepobjedivi kada obučete odijelo,

and that's why you feel beautiful

zbog toga se osjećate predivno

in that little black dress.

u maloj crnoj haljini.

But that's exactly why Oliver felt so isolated

Upravo zato se Oliver osjećao izoliranim,

when he couldn't wear what he wanted to wear.

jer nije mogao birati što će odjenuti.

He even said to me one time,

Jednom mi je čak rekao,

"Mom, wearing sweatpants every day

"Mama, zbog nošenja trenirke svaki dan

makes me feel like I'm dressing disabled."

osjećam se kao da imam posebne potrebe u odijevanju."

There are one billion people on our planet

Na svijetu je milijarda ljudi

that experience some type of disability.

s nekom vrstom teškoće.

One billion.

Milijarda.

If 10 percent of that billion experience clothing challenges,

Ako 10% od tih milijardu ima teškoće u odijevanju,

that's an enormous amount of people that may not be as confident,

to je ogroman broj ljudi koji se ne osjećaju samouvjereno,

as successful

uspješno

or even as happy as they could be.

ili sretno, a mogli bi biti.

The morning after Oliver left for school wearing those jeans,

Sljedećeg jutra kada je Oliver otišao u školu noseći te traperice,

I realized that I could do something about that.

shvatila sam da mogu nešto promijeniti.

And so I did.

I jesam.

In 2013, I founded an organization called Runway of Dreams.

2013. osnovala sam udrugu "Runway of Dreams". [Staza snova]

The mission was to educate the fashion industry

Cilj je bio poručiti modnoj industriji

that modifications could be made to mainstream clothing

da je moguće prilagoditi uobičajenu odjeću

for this community that has never been served.

ovoj zapostavljenoj grupi ljudi.

And it began with an entire year of research.

Sve je započelo jednogodišnjim istraživanjem.

I went to schools, I went to facilities, I went to hospitals.

Obilazila sam škole, ustanove, bolnice.

I literally chased down people on the street who were in wheelchairs

Doslovno sam jurila ulicom za ljudima u invalidskim kolicima

or if they had walkers

ili hodalicama,

or even if they had a slight limp.

čak i ako su samo šepali.

(Laughter)

(Smijeh)

I know I must have looked insane,

Vjerojatno sam izgledala kao luđakinja,

but I knew that if I was really going to make a difference,

no, ako uistinu želim nešto promijeniti,

I had to truly understand the clothing challenges

morala sam dobro upoznati teškoće u odijevanju

of as many different people as I possibly could.

čim većeg broja ljudi.

I met a young man who was 18 who has cerebral palsy.

Upoznala sam osamnaestogodišnjeg mladića s cerebralnom paralizom.

He was going to Harvard University.

Studirao je na Harvardu.

He said to me, "Can you imagine?

Rekao mi je, "Možete li zamisliti?

I got myself into Harvard,

upisao sam se na Harvard,

but my dream is to be able to wear jeans on campus,

a meni je san nositi traperice po kampusu,

like the other freshmen will wear."

kao što će nositi i ostali brucoši."

I met a little girl named Gianna,

Upoznala sam djevojčicu, Giannu,

who was missing her left forearm and her hand.

koja nije imala lijevu podlakticu.

Her mother told me

Njena mi je majka rekla

she could not bear to see her daughter's difference magnified

da je neizmjerno smeta što stanje njene kćeri pojačava

by a dangling sleeve,

taj rukav koji visi

so she had every single long-sleeve shirt professionally tailored.

pa stoga krojaču daje na kraćenje rukav svake košulje.

Can you imagine the time and money she spent?

Možete li zamisliti koliko je vremena i novaca potrošila?

I also had the great privilege of spending time with Eric LeGrand,

Imala sam i veliku čast upoznati Erica LeGranda,

former Rutgers football player who was paralyzed during a tackle in 2010.

bivšeg ragbijaša Rutgersa, paraliziranog od udarca na utakmici 2010.

I had, at this point, seen some unfathomable things,

Do tog sam trenutka vidjela mnogo toga neopisivog,

but this, by far, was the most heart-stopping.

no, od ovog mi je srce stalo.

You see, Eric is a really big guy,

Eric je krupan momak

and it took two aides and a lifting machine

i treba mu pomoć dva asistenta i lifta

to get him dressed.

kako bi ga se odjenulo.

I sat and watched this process for over two hours.

Sjela sam i pratila taj proces preko dva sata.

When I expressed my shock to Eric,

Rekavši Ericu koliko sam šokirana,

he looked at me and said,

pogledao me i rekao,

"Mindy, this is every single day.

"Mindy, tako je svakog dana.

What can I say?

Što da kažem?

I like to look sharp."

Volim izgledati naočito."

Research done.

Istraživanje je završilo.

I knew that if I was going to make a change in the industry,

Znala sam, ako želim učiniti promjene u industriji,

I had to use my background

moram iskoristiti svoje znanje

and really figure out how to make these clothes modified.

i pronaći način kako modificirati odjeću.

So I took the information I gathered over that past year,

Iskoristila sam informacije prikupljene tijekom godine dana

and I figured out that there were actually three categories

i utvrdila da postoje tri kategorije

that were affected across the board.

koje predstavljaju problem.

The first were closures.

Prva je zatvaranje odjeće.

Buttons, snaps, zippers, hook-and-eyes were a challenge for almost everybody.

Gumbi, zatvarači, kukice predstavljaju gotovo svima problem.

So I replaced them with a more manageable technology:

Stoga sam ih zamijenila mnogo jednostavnijom tehnologijom:

magnets.

magnetima.

Magnets made our Harvard freshman able to wear jeans on campus,

Zbog magneta, naš brucoš s Harvarda može nositi traperice,

because he could dress himself.

jer se može sam odjenuti.

Second: adjustability.

Druga kategorija je prilagodljivost.

Pant lengths, sleeve lengths, waistbands

Duljina nogavica, rukava i širina struka

were a challenge for so many different-shaped bodies.

mnogima su problem zbog građe tijela.

So I added elastic,

Stoga sam dodala elastične trake

an internal hemming system.

u sve vrste pasica.

This way, Gianna could wear a shirt right off the rack

Tako Gianna može uzeti košulju s police i odmah je odjenuti.

and just adjust the one sleeve.

Samo treba prilagoditi rukav.

Last: alternate ways to get the clothing on and off the body,

I posljednje: promijeniti način oblačenja i svlačenja odjeće

outside the traditional way of over your head.

mimo klasičnog načina navlačenja preko glave.

So I designed a way to go in arms first.

Predložila sam način da ruke idu prve.

This, for somebody like Eric,

To bi nekome, poput Erica,

could actually take five steps off his dressing process

smanjilo broj potrebnih radnji u procesu odijevanja

and give him back the gift of time.

i uštedjelo vrijeme.

So I went out,

Otišla sam u kupovinu,

I bought clothing right off the rack,

kupila odjeću s polica,

I sat at my kitchen table, ripped them apart,

sjela za kuhinjski stol, rasparala je

did prototype after prototype, until I felt I had great modifications.

i nizala prototipove, sve dok nisam našla pravo rješenje.

And then I was ready for the big leagues:

Tek sam tada bila spremna za velike face

the fashion industry.

u modnoj industriji.

Rather than designing my own collection,

Umjesto da stvaram svoju kolekciju,

I knew if I was really going to make a difference,

znala sam, da ako želim stvarnu promjenu,

I had to go mainstream.

moram se obratiti industriji.

I believed that I just needed to educate the industry

Bila sam uvjerena da industrija treba znati

of the enormity of this population

koliko je brojna ova populacija

and the fact that these were consumers

i da su to potrošači, klijenti,

that simply weren't being considered.

koji su jednostavno zaboravljeni.

And I am thrilled to say that the industry heard me.

Sa zadovoljstvom vam mogu reći da su me poslušali.

Runway of Dreams collaborated with the most amazing,

Runway of Dreams ostvario je suradnju s nevjerojatnim,

forward-thinking brand on our planet --

planetarno uspješnim brendom --

(Applause)

(Pljesak)

who took my vision to market

koji su tržištu ponudili moju viziju

and made fashion history

i ušli u povijest mode

by launching the first mainstream adaptive collection.

kao prvi brend s prilagodljivom kolekcijom.

And the rest is yet to come.

I to nije kraj.

(Applause)

(Pljesak)

So --

Stoga --

(Applause)

(Pljesak)

Fashion holds the key to a vital lifeline.

Moda zauzma važno mjesto u našim životima.

Clothing can be transformative.

Odjeća nas mijenja.

Clothing equals confidence.

Odjeća je samopouzdanje.

So tomorrow,

Stoga sutra,

when you are starting your day

kada započnete svoj dan

and you're thinking about what you're going to wear,

i razmišljate što ćete odjenuti,

I hope you appreciate the process

budite svjesni ovog procesa

and think about how what you chose

i razmislite kako se osjećate,

makes you feel.

dok birate odjeću.

Today, Oliver is 13.

Oliver sada ima 13 godina.

He wears his adaptive khakis,

Nosi svoje prilagodljive kaki hlače,

his magnetic button-front shirt --

košulju s magnetima

feels like the coolest kid around.

i osjeća se kao cool klinac.

My boy has total swagger.

Moj dečko je prava faca.

(Laughter)

(Smijeh)

As I mentioned,

Kao što sam spomenula,

Oliver's disease is degenerative,

njegova je bolest degenerativna

which means his muscles are going to break down over time.

i njegovi će mišići sve više propadati.

This, by far, is the most devastating part for me.

I to je ono što me slama iznutra.

I have to sit on the sidelines

Što moram promatrati sa strane

and watch my boy deteriorate.

i gledati kako moj dečko propada.

And there's nothing I can do about it.

Mogu samo bespomoćno promatrati.

So I am looking up from the things that I cannot control

Zato skrećem pogled visoko gore od stvari koje ne mogu promijeniti,

to the things that I can,

na one koje mogu,

because I have no option.

jer nemam izbora.

And so, I am looking up.

Zato gledam visoko gore.

And I'm asking the fashion industry to look up.

I tražim modnu industriju da to isto učini.

And now, I'm asking all of you

Molim i sve vas,

to look up, too.

pogledajte gore.

Thank you.

Hvala vam.

(Applause)

(Pljesak)