The complicated history of surfing - Scott Laderman

1,538,790 views ใƒป 2017-11-16

TED-Ed


์•„๋ž˜ ์˜๋ฌธ์ž๋ง‰์„ ๋”๋ธ”ํด๋ฆญํ•˜์‹œ๋ฉด ์˜์ƒ์ด ์žฌ์ƒ๋ฉ๋‹ˆ๋‹ค.

๋ฒˆ์—ญ: Taseaung Lee ๊ฒ€ํ† : Jihyeon J. Kim
00:06
For some, it's a serious sport.
0
6938
2018
์–ด๋–ค ์ด๋“ค์—๊ฒ ์ง„์งœ '์Šคํฌ์ธ '์ฃ .
00:08
For others, just a way to let loose.
1
8956
3021
์–ด๋–ค ์ด๋“ค์—๊ฒ ์ŠคํŠธ๋ ˆ์Šค๋ฅผ ํ‘ธ๋Š” ๋ฐฉ๋ฒ•์ด๊ธฐ๋„ ํ•ฉ๋‹ˆ๋‹ค.
00:11
But despite its casual association with fun and sun,
2
11977
3461
๊ทธ๋Ÿฐ๋ฐ ์žฌ๋ฏธ์™€ ํ–‡๋น›์ด ์ „๋ถ€์ธ ๊ฒƒ ๊ฐ™์€ ์Šคํฌ์ธ ์ธ ์„œํ•‘์€
00:15
surfing has a richer and deeper history than many realize.
3
15438
5504
๋Œ€๋ถ€๋ถ„์ด ์ƒ๊ฐํ•˜๋Š” ๊ฒƒ๋ณด๋‹ค ํ’๋ถ€ํ•˜๊ณ  ๊นŠ์€ ์—ญ์‚ฌ๊ฐ€ ์žˆ์Šต๋‹ˆ๋‹ค.
00:20
What we today call surfing originated in
4
20942
2350
์šฐ๋ฆฌ๊ฐ€ ์ง€๊ธˆ ์„œํ•‘์ด๋ผ ๋ถ€๋ฅด๋Š” ๊ฒƒ์€
00:23
the Polynesian islands of the Pacific Ocean.
5
23292
3530
ํƒœํ‰์–‘์˜ ํด๋ฆฌ๋„ค์‹œ์•„ ์„ฌ์—์„œ ์œ ๋ž˜ํ•ฉ๋‹ˆ๋‹ค.
00:26
We know from various accounts
6
26822
1950
์„œํ•‘์€ ํด๋ฆฌ๋„ค์‹œ์•„ ์—ฐ์•ˆ๊ณผ
00:28
that wave riding was done throughout the Polynesian Pacific,
7
28772
4008
์„œ์•„ํ”„๋ฆฌ์นด์™€ ํŽ˜๋ฃจ์—์„œ
00:32
as well as in West Africa and Peru.
8
32780
4213
ํ–‰ํ•ด์กŒ๋‹ค๊ณ  ์šฐ๋ฆฌ๋Š” ๋ฐฐ์› ์Šต๋‹ˆ๋‹ค.
00:36
But it was in the Hawaiian archipelago in particular
9
36993
2698
๊ทธ๋Ÿฌ๋‚˜ ์„œํ•‘์ด ๊ฐ€์žฅ ๋ฐœ๋‹ฌํ•˜๊ณ 
00:39
that surfing advanced the most,
10
39691
2471
๊ฐ€์žฅ ๊ด€๋ จ๊ธฐ๋ก์ด ์ž˜ ๋˜์–ด์žˆ๊ณ 
00:42
was best documented,
11
42162
1541
ํด๋ฆฌ๋„ค์‹œ์•„ ์—ฐ์•ˆ ๋“ฑ๊ณผ ๋‹ค๋ฅด๊ฒŒ ์˜ค๋ž˜ ์ง€์†๋˜์˜จ ๊ณณ์€
00:43
and, unlike elsewhere in Polynesia, persisted.
12
43703
4342
๋ฐ”๋กœ ํ•˜์™€์ด ์ œ๋„์ž…๋‹ˆ๋‹ค.
00:48
And for the people of Hawaii,
13
48045
1447
๊ทธ๋ฆฌ๊ณ  ํ•˜์™€์ด ์‚ฌ๋žŒ๋“ค์—๊ฒ
00:49
wave sliding was not just a recreational activity,
14
49492
3330
์„œํ•‘์€ ๋ณดํ†ต ์—ฌ๊ฐ€ํ™œ๋™์ด ์•„๋‹ˆ๋ผ
00:52
but one with spiritual and social significance.
15
52822
4682
์˜์ ์ด์ž ์‚ฌํšŒ์  ์ค‘์š”์„ฑ์„ ๊ฐ€์ง€๊ณ  ์žˆ์—ˆ์Šต๋‹ˆ๋‹ค.
00:57
Like much of Hawaiian society,
16
57504
1520
๋‹ค๋ฅธ ํ•˜์™€์ด ๊ณต๋™์ฒด์™€ ๋งˆ์ฐฌ๊ฐ€์ง€๋กœ,
00:59
nearly every aspect of surfing was governed by a code of rules and taboos
17
59024
5310
์„œํ•‘์˜ ๊ฑฐ์˜ ๋ชจ๋“  ์ธก๋ฉด์ด ์นดํ‘ธ๋ผ ์•Œ๋ ค์ ธ ์žˆ๋Š”
01:04
known as kapu.
18
64334
2961
๊ทœ์น™๊ณผ ๊ธˆ๊ธฐ์‚ฌํ•ญ์œผ๋กœ ์ด๋ฃจ์–ด์ง„ ๊ด€๋ก€์— ๋”ฐ๋ผ ํ–‰ํ•ด์กŒ์ฃ .
01:07
Hawaiians made offerings when selecting a tree to carve,
19
67295
3320
ํ•˜์™€์ด์ธ๋“ค์€ ๊นŽ์„ ๋‚˜๋ฌด๋ฅผ ๊ณ ๋ฅผ ๋•Œ ์ œ๋ฌผ์„ ๋ฐ”์น˜๊ณค ํ–ˆ๊ณ .
01:10
prayed for waves with the help of a kahuna, or an expert priest,
20
70615
4199
์นดํ›„๋‚˜๋ผ๋Š” ์ „๋ฌธ ์ฃผ์ˆ ์‚ฌ์˜ ๋„์›€์„ ๋ฐ›์•„ ํŒŒ๋„๊ฐ€ ์น˜๊ธธ ๊ธฐ์›ํ–ˆ๊ณ 
01:14
and gave thanks after surviving a perilous wipeout.
21
74814
5251
์œ„ํ—˜ํ•œ ํŒŒ๋„๊ฐ€ ์ง€๋‚˜๋ฉด ์‚ด์•„๋‚จ์€ ๊ฒƒ์— ๊ฐ์‚ฌ๋ฅผ ๋“œ๋ ธ์Šต๋‹ˆ๋‹ค.
01:20
Certain surf breaks were strickly reserved for the elite.
22
80065
4564
์–ด๋–ค ํŒŒ๋„๋Š” ์ƒ์œ„์ธต ๋งŒ์„ ์œ„ํ•œ ๊ฒƒ์ด๊ธฐ๋„ ํ–ˆ์Šต๋‹ˆ๋‹ค.
01:24
But it wasn't just a solemn affair.
23
84629
2526
๊ทธ๋ ‡์ง€๋งŒ ์—„์ˆ™ํ•˜๊ณ  ์ง„์ง€ํ•œ ์˜ˆ์‹์€ ์•„๋‹ˆ์—ˆ์Šต๋‹ˆ๋‹ค.
01:27
Surfers competed and wagered on who could ride the farthest,
24
87155
3270
์„œํผ๋“ค์€ ์„œ๋กœ ๋ˆ„๊ฐ€ ๋” ๋ฉ€๋ฆฌ ๊ฐ€๋Š”์ง€,
01:30
the fastest,
25
90425
1011
๋” ๋นจ๋ฆฌ ๊ฐ€๋Š”์ง€,
01:31
or catch the biggest wave with superior skill,
26
91436
3530
์–ผ๋งˆ๋‚˜ ํ›Œ๋ฅญํ•œ ๊ธฐ๊ต๋กœ ๋” ํฐ ํŒŒ๋„๋ฅผ ํƒ€๋Š”์ง€ ๊ฒจ๋ฃจ๊ฑฐ๋‚˜ ๋‚ด๊ธฐ๋ฅผ ํ•˜๋ฉด์„œ
01:34
granting respect,
27
94966
1251
์กด๊ฒฝ์„ ์–ป๊ณ ,
01:36
social status,
28
96217
1378
์‚ฌํšŒ์  ์ง€์œ„๋ฅผ ๋ณด์žฅ์œผ๋ฉฐ,
01:37
and romantic success.
29
97595
3811
์‚ฌ๋ž‘์— ์„ฑ๊ณตํ•  ์ˆ˜ ์žˆ์—ˆ์ฃ 
01:41
Though it was later called the sport of kings,
30
101406
2449
๋‚˜์ค‘์—๋Š” ์™•๋“ค์˜ ์Šคํฌ์ธ ๋ผ ๋ถˆ๋ ธ์ง€๋งŒ,
01:43
Hawaiian men and women of all ages and social classes participated,
31
103855
4312
ํ•˜์™€์ด์˜ ๋‚จ๋…€๋…ธ์†Œ, ์‹ ๋ถ„์— ์ƒ๊ด€์—†์ด ์ฝ”์•„์•„์นด์‹œ์•„ ๋‚˜๋ฌด, ๋นต๋‚˜๋ฌด
01:48
riding surfboards shaped from koa,
32
108167
1862
์œŒ๋ฆฌ์œŒ๋ฆฌ ๋‚˜๋ฌด๋“ฑ์—์„œ
01:50
breadfruit,
33
110029
935
01:50
or wiliwili trees.
34
110964
3067
๊นŽ์•„๋งŒ๋“  ๋ณด๋“œ๋กœ
์„œํ•‘์„ ์ฆ๊ฒผ์ฃ .
01:54
Many Hawaiians road alaia boards,
35
114031
2166
๋งŽ์€ ํ•˜์™€์ด ์‚ฌ๋žŒ๋“ค์€ ์–‡๊ณ , ์ค‘๊ฐ„์ •๋„ ํฌ๊ธฐ์—,
01:56
which were thin, midsized, and somewhat resemble today's shortboards.
36
116197
5030
ํ˜„๋Œ€์˜ ์ˆ๋ณด๋“œ๋ฅผ ๋‹ฎ์€ ์•Œ๋ผ์ด์•„ ๋ณด๋“œ๋ฅผ ์ฆ๊ฒจํƒ”์Šต๋‹ˆ๋‹ค.
02:01
Some mounted paipo boards,
37
121227
1809
๋ช‡์€ ์งง๊ณ  ๋‘ฅ๊ทผ ๋๋ถ€๋ถ„์˜
02:03
short, round-nosed boards on which riders typically lay on their stomachs.
38
123036
5731
ํŒŒ์ดํฌ ๋ณด๋“œ๋ฅผ ํƒ”๋Š”๋ฐ, ๋ณดํ†ต ์—Ž๋“œ๋ ค ํƒ€๋Š” ์ข…๋ฅ˜์˜€์Šต๋‹ˆ๋‹ค.
02:08
But only chieftains could ride the massive olo boards,
39
128767
3950
๊ทธ๋Ÿฌ๋‚˜ ์˜ค์ง ์กฑ์žฅ๋งŒ์ด ํƒˆ ์ˆ˜ ์žˆ์—ˆ๋˜ ํ˜„๋Œ€์˜ ๋กฑ๋ณด๋“œ์˜ ๋‘๋ฐฐ ํฌ๊ธฐ์˜
02:12
twice as long as today's longboards.
40
132717
2520
์˜ฌ๋กœ ๋ณด๋“œ๋„ ์žˆ์—ˆ์Šต๋‹ˆ๋‹ค.
02:15
Unlike most modern surfboards,
41
135237
2880
์˜ค๋Š˜๋‚ ์˜ ์„œํ•‘๋ณด๋“œ์™€ ๋‹ฌ๋ฆฌ,
02:18
all boards were finless,
42
138117
1872
๊ทธ๋•Œ ๋‹น์‹œ ๋ชจ๋“  ๋ณด๋“œ๋Š” ์ง€๋Š๋Ÿฌ๋ฏธ๊ฐ€ ์—†์—ˆ๊ณ ,
02:19
requiring surfers to drag their hands or feet to turn.
43
139989
4879
์†์ด๋‚˜ ๋ฐœ๋กœ ๋Œ์–ด์•ผ์ง€๋งŒ ๋ฐฉํ–ฅ์„ ํ‹€ ์ˆ˜ ์žˆ์—ˆ์Šต๋‹ˆ๋‹ค.
02:24
We don't know exactly when wave sliding was invented,
44
144868
2720
์šฐ๋ฆฐ ์•„์ง ์„œํ•‘์ด ์–ธ์ œ ์‹œ์ž‘๋˜์—ˆ๋Š”์ง€ ๋ชจ๋ฅด์ง€๋งŒ
02:27
but we know that it had already been practiced in Polynesia for centuries
45
147588
4401
์ œ์ž„์Šค ์ฟก ์„ ์žฅ์˜ ๋ฐฐ์ธ ๋ ˆ์†”๋ฃจ์…˜ ํ˜ธ์—์„œ ์ˆ˜์ˆ ์˜์‚ฌ๋กœ ์ผํ–ˆ๋˜
02:31
by the time it was described in 1777 by William Anderson,
46
151989
4729
์œŒ๋ฆฌ์—„ ์•ค๋”์Šจ์ด 1777๋…„ ๊ธฐ์ˆ ํ•œ ๊ฒƒ์— ๋”ฐ๋ฅด๋ฉด
02:36
a surgeon on Captain Cook's ship "Resolution."
47
156718
4950
์ด๋ฏธ ํด๋ฆฌ๋„ค์‹œ์•„์—์„  ์ˆ˜ ์„ธ๊ธฐ ๋™์•ˆ ํ–‰ํ•ด์กŒ๋‹ค๊ณ  ํ•ฉ๋‹ˆ๋‹ค.
02:41
Although Anderson was in awe,
48
161668
1961
์•ค๋”์Šจ์€ ์ •๋ง ๋†€๋ผ์›Œ ํ–ˆ์Œ์—๋„
02:43
most of the American Christian missionaries who arrived in Hawaii
49
163629
3731
ํ•˜์™€์ด์— ๋ช‡์„ธ๊ธฐ ํ›„์— ๋„๋‹ฌํ•œ
02:47
several decades later
50
167360
1600
๋Œ€๋ถ€๋ถ„์˜ ๋ฏธ๊ตญ ์„ ๊ต์‚ฌ๋“ค์€
02:48
regarded surfing as sinful,
51
168960
2088
์„œํ•‘์„ ์ฃ„์Šค๋Ÿฌ์šด ์Šคํฌ์ธ ๋กœ ์น˜๋ถ€ํ•ด
02:51
and they discouraged it, along with other aspects of native culture.
52
171048
4871
๋‹ค๋ฅธ ์›์ฃผ๋ฏผ ๋ฌธํ™”์™€ ํ•จ๊ป˜ ๊ทธ๊ฒƒ์„ ๊ธˆ๊ธฐ์‹œ ํ–ˆ์Šต๋‹ˆ๋‹ค.
02:55
The biggest threat to surfing, however, was the threat to the natives themselves.
53
175919
4292
ํ•˜์ง€๋งŒ, ์„œํ•‘์—๊ฒŒ ๊ฐ€์žฅ ํฐ ์œ„ํ˜‘์ด ๋๋˜๊ฑด, ์›์ฃผ๋ฏผ๋“ค์—๊ฒŒ ๋‹ฅ์ณ์˜จ ์œ„ํ˜‘์ด์—ˆ์Šต๋‹ˆ๋‹ค.
03:00
By 1890, new illnesses introduced by Europeans and Americans
54
180211
4617
1890๋…„, ์œ ๋Ÿฝ์ธ๋“ค๊ณผ ๋ฏธ๊ตญ์ธ๋“ค๋กœ๋ถ€ํ„ฐ ์ƒˆ๋กœ์šด ์งˆ๋ณ‘์— ๋…ธ์ถœ๋œ
03:04
had decimated the Hawaiian people, leaving fewer than 40,000
55
184828
4082
ํ•˜์™€์ด์ธ๋“ค์€ ์‹ ๋ฌธ๋ช…๊ณผ์˜ ์ ‘์ด‰ ์ด์ „์—๋Š” 80๋งŒ ๋ช…์ด ๋„˜๋˜ ๋ชจ๋“  ์ธ๊ตฌ๋“ค ์ค‘์—์„œ
03:08
from a pre-contact population that may have exceeded 800,000.
56
188910
5443
4๋งŒ ๋ช…๋งŒ์„ ๋‚จ๊ธฐ๊ณ  ๋ชจ์กฐ๋ฆฌ ์ฃฝ์–ด๋ฒ„๋ฆฝ๋‹ˆ๋‹ค.
03:14
At the same time, foreign influence grew
57
194353
2404
๋ฐฑ์ธ ์ •์ฐฉ๋ฏผ์ด ์›์ฃผ๋ฏผ์˜ ๊ตฐ์ฃผ์ œ๋ฅผ 1893๋…„์— ๋ฌด๋„ˆ๋œจ๋ฆฌ๊ณ 
03:16
with white settlers overthrowing the native monarchy in 1893,
58
196757
5297
๋ฏธ๊ตญ์ด ํ•˜์™€์ด ์ œ๋„๋ฅผ 5๋…„ ๋’ค์— ํ•ฉ๋ณ‘ํ•˜๋ฉด์„œ
03:22
and the U.S. annexing the islands five years later.
59
202054
3774
์™ธ์••์€ ๋” ์ปค์กŒ์ฃ .
03:25
The end of Hawaii's independence coincided with surfing's native-led revival,
60
205828
5902
์›์ฃผ๋ฏผ๋“ค์ด ์ฃผ๋„ํ•œ ์„œํ•‘์˜ ๋ถ€ํ™œ์€ ํ•˜์™€์ด์˜ ์ฃผ๊ถŒ์ด ๋ง์†Œ๋œ ์‹œ์ ๊ณผ ๋งž๋ฌผ๋ ค
03:31
a revival soon exploited by the American colonizers.
61
211730
5566
๊ฒฐ๊ตญ ๋ฏธ๊ตญ์˜ ์‹๋ฏผ์ง€ ๊ฐœ์ฒ™์ž๋“ค์—๊ฒŒ ์ฐฉ์ทจ๋˜๊ณ  ๋ง์•˜์Šต๋‹ˆ๋‹ค.
03:37
But first, some Hawaiians took surfing overseas.
62
217296
3479
๊ทธ๋•Œ, ๋ช‡ ์›์ฃผ๋ฏผ๋“ค์ด ์„œํ•‘์„ ํ•ด์™ธ๋กœ ์ „ํŒŒํ–ˆ์Šต๋‹ˆ๋‹ค.
03:40
In 1907, George Freeth, the so-called Hawaiian Wonder,
63
220775
4791
1907๋…„, ํ•˜์™€์ด์˜ ๊ธฐ์ ์ด๋ผ ๋ถˆ๋ฆฌ๋Š” ์กฐ์ง€ ํ”„๋ฆฌ์Šค๋Š” ์„œํ•ด์•ˆ์œผ๋กœ ๊ฐ€์„œ
03:45
traveled to the west coast
64
225566
1600
03:47
and gave surfing demonstrations in southern California.
65
227166
4617
์บ˜๋ฆฌํฌ๋‹ˆ์•„ ๋‚จ์ชฝ์—์„œ ์„œํ•‘์„ ์‹œ์—ฐํ–ˆ์Šต๋‹ˆ๋‹ค.
03:51
Then in 1914, Olympic swimmer Duke Kahanamoku
66
231783
3803
๊ทธ๋ฆฌ๊ณ  1914๋…„ ์˜ฌ๋ฆผํ”ฝ ์ˆ˜์˜์„ ์ˆ˜ ๋“€ํฌ ์นดํ•˜๋‚˜๋ชจ์ฟ ๋Š”
03:55
made his way to Australia and New Zealand,
67
235586
3190
๋‚จํƒœํ‰์–‘์˜ ํŒŒ๋„๋ฅผ ๋šซ๊ณ 
03:58
gliding across the southern Pacific waves
68
238776
2031
์–ด๋””๋ฅผ ๊ฐ€๋˜ ๊ด€๋žŒ๊ฐ๋“ค์„ ์—ด๊ด‘์‹œํ‚ค๋ฉฐ
04:00
and attracting rapt audiences wherever he went.
69
240807
4369
์˜ค์ŠคํŠธ๋ ˆ์ผ๋ฆฌ์•„์™€ ๋‰ด์งˆ๋žœ๋“œ๋กœ ๊ฐ”์Šต๋‹ˆ๋‹ค.
04:05
Shortly before Freeth went to California,
70
245176
2070
ํ”„๋ฆฌ์Šค๊ฐ€ ์บ˜๋ฆฌํฌ๋‹ˆ์•„๋กœ ๊ฐ€๊ธฐ ์ง์ „,
04:07
a South Carolinian named Alexander Hume Ford moved to Hawaii.
71
247246
5670
๊ทธ ๊ณณ์— ์‚ด๋˜ ์•Œ๋ ‰์‚ฐ๋” ํ„ ํฌ๋“œ๋ผ๋Š” ์‚ฌ๋žŒ์ด ํ•˜์™€์ด๋กœ ์ด์‚ฌํ–ˆ์Šต๋‹ˆ๋‹ค.
04:12
After learning to surf, he became a champion of the pastime.
72
252916
5212
์„œํ•‘ํ•˜๋Š” ๋ฒ•์„ ๋ฐฐ์šด ํ›„, ํฌ๋“œ๋Š” ์ฑ”ํ”ผ์–ธ์ด ๋˜์—ˆ์ฃ .
04:18
But Ford may have had unsavory reasons
73
258128
2309
๊ทธ๋Ÿฌ๋‚˜ ์„œํ•‘์„ ์ง„ํฅ์‹œํ‚จ ๊ทธ์˜ ํ–‰๋™ ๋’ค์—๋Š”
04:20
for his enthusiastic efforts to boost the sport.
74
260437
4590
๋ถˆ์ˆœํ•œ ์˜๋„๊ฐ€ ์ˆจ์–ด ์žˆ์—ˆ์Šต๋‹ˆ๋‹ค.
04:25
Like many settlers, he wanted Hawaii to become a U.S. state
75
265027
3851
ํฌ๋“œ๋Š” ๋‹ค๋ฅธ ์ •์ฐฉ๋ฏผ๋“ค์ฒ˜๋Ÿผ ํ•˜์™€์ด๊ฐ€ ๋ฏธ๊ตญ์˜ ์ฃผ๊ฐ€ ๋˜๊ธธ ๋ฐ”๋žฌ๋Š”๋ฐ,
04:28
but was worried about its non-white majority of natives and Asian workers.
76
268878
5132
๋ฐฑ์ธ๊ณผ ์•„์‹œ์•„๊ณ„ ๋…ธ๋™์ž์˜ ๋ถ€์žฌ๊ฐ€ ๊ทธ๋Š” ๊ฑฑ์ •์Šค๋Ÿฌ์› ๋˜ ๊ฒ๋‹ˆ๋‹ค.
04:34
Ford thus promoted surfing to attract white Americans to Hawaii,
77
274010
4798
๊ทธ๋ž˜์„œ ํฌ๋“œ๋Š” ์„œํ•‘์„ ํ™๋ณดํ•ด ๋ฐฑ์ธ๋“ค์„ ์ฒ˜์Œ์—” ์—ฌํ–‰๊ฐ ์ฐจ์›์—์„œ
04:38
first as tourists, then as residents.
78
278808
3350
๋‚˜์ค‘์—” ๊ฑฐ์ฃผ๋ฏผ ์ฐจ์›์œผ๋กœ ๋Œ์–ด๋“ค์˜€์Šต๋‹ˆ๋‹ค.
04:42
He was helped by numerous writers and filmmakers.
79
282158
3231
๋งŽ์€ ์˜ํ™”์ œ์ž‘์ž์™€ ์ž‘๊ฐ€์—๊ฒŒ์„œ ๋งŽ์€ ๋„์›€์„ ๋ฐ›์•˜์ฃ .
04:45
Ford's demographic plan would fail miserably.
80
285389
4266
ํ•˜์ง€๋งŒ ๊ฒฐ๊ตญ, ํฌ๋“œ์˜ ์ธ๊ตฌ์ •์ฑ…์€ ์‹คํŒจํ•˜๊ณ  ๋ง™๋‹ˆ๋‹ค.
04:49
Hawaii became a state in 1959
81
289655
2624
ํ•˜์™€์ด๋Š” 1959๋…„ ์ฃผ๊ฐ€ ๋˜์—ˆ์Œ์—๋„
04:52
and remains the most racially diverse state in the country.
82
292279
4610
๋‚˜๋ผ์—์„œ ๊ฐ€์žฅ ๋‹ค์–‘ํ•œ ์ธ์ข…์„ ๋ณด์œ ํ•œ ์ฃผ๊ฐ€ ๋˜์—ˆ๊ณ  ์ง€๊ธˆ๋„ ๊ทธ๋ ‡์Šต๋‹ˆ๋‹ค.
04:56
But the promotion of surfing was a far greater success.
83
296889
3680
๊ทธ๋ ‡์ง€๋งŒ ์„œํ•‘์˜ ํ™๋ณด๋Š” ํšจ๊ณผ๋ฅผ ํ†กํ†กํžˆ ์ฑ™๊ฒผ๋Š”๋ฐ์š”,
05:00
Today, surfing is a multi-billion dollar global industry,
84
300569
3701
์˜ค๋Š˜๋‚  ์„œํ•‘์€ ์ˆ˜์‹ญ์–ต ๋‹ฌ๋Ÿฌ์˜ ์„ธ๊ณ„์  ์‚ฐ์—…์ž…๋‹ˆ๋‹ค.
05:04
with tens of millions of enthusiasts worldwide.
85
304270
4230
์„ธ๊ณ„ ๊ณณ๊ณณ์— ์ฆ๊ธฐ๋Š” ์‚ฌ๋žŒ์ด ์ˆ˜์ฒœ๋งŒ ๋ช…์ด์ฃ .
05:08
And though relatively few of these surfers are aware of the once-crucial wave chants
86
308500
4760
๋งŽ์€ ์‚ฌ๋žŒ๋“ค์ด ๊ณผ๊ฑฐ์˜ ํŒŒ๋„ ์˜์‹์ด๋‚˜
05:13
or board carving rituals,
87
313260
1911
๋ณด๋“œ๊นŽ๋Š” ์˜๋ก€๋ฅผ ์žŠ์—ˆ์ง€๋งŒ
05:15
Hawaiians continue to preserve these traditions
88
315171
2749
ํ•˜์™€์ด ์‚ฌ๋žŒ๋“ค์€ ๊ณ„์†ํ•ด์„œ ์—ญ์‚ฌ์˜ ํŒŒ๋„์—์„œ ์‚ฌ๋ผ์งˆ๋ป”ํ•œ
05:17
nearly washed away by history's waves.
89
317920
3340
๊ทธ๋“ค์˜ ์ „ํ†ต์„ ์ง€ํ‚ค๋ ค๊ณ  ๋…ธ๋ ฅํ•˜๊ณ  ์žˆ์Šต๋‹ˆ๋‹ค.
์ด ์›น์‚ฌ์ดํŠธ ์ •๋ณด

์ด ์‚ฌ์ดํŠธ๋Š” ์˜์–ด ํ•™์Šต์— ์œ ์šฉํ•œ YouTube ๋™์˜์ƒ์„ ์†Œ๊ฐœํ•ฉ๋‹ˆ๋‹ค. ์ „ ์„ธ๊ณ„ ์ตœ๊ณ ์˜ ์„ ์ƒ๋‹˜๋“ค์ด ๊ฐ€๋ฅด์น˜๋Š” ์˜์–ด ์ˆ˜์—…์„ ๋ณด๊ฒŒ ๋  ๊ฒƒ์ž…๋‹ˆ๋‹ค. ๊ฐ ๋™์˜์ƒ ํŽ˜์ด์ง€์— ํ‘œ์‹œ๋˜๋Š” ์˜์–ด ์ž๋ง‰์„ ๋”๋ธ” ํด๋ฆญํ•˜๋ฉด ๊ทธ๊ณณ์—์„œ ๋™์˜์ƒ์ด ์žฌ์ƒ๋ฉ๋‹ˆ๋‹ค. ๋น„๋””์˜ค ์žฌ์ƒ์— ๋งž์ถฐ ์ž๋ง‰์ด ์Šคํฌ๋กค๋ฉ๋‹ˆ๋‹ค. ์˜๊ฒฌ์ด๋‚˜ ์š”์ฒญ์ด ์žˆ๋Š” ๊ฒฝ์šฐ ์ด ๋ฌธ์˜ ์–‘์‹์„ ์‚ฌ์šฉํ•˜์—ฌ ๋ฌธ์˜ํ•˜์‹ญ์‹œ์˜ค.

https://forms.gle/WvT1wiN1qDtmnspy7