The Simple Solution to Fast Fashion | Josephine Philips | TED

翻译人员: Cathy Chen 校对人员: suya f.

I'd like to take you all back to the late 1950s in Sierra Leone.

我想带大家回到20世纪 50年代末的塞拉利昂。

My 93-year-old grandmother is about my age.

我的93岁的祖母和我差不多大。

She lives in Freetown.

她住在弗里敦。

It is hot and she is beautiful.

那里很热，她很漂亮。

She goes to a market one day and she buys a yellow dress.

有一天她去商场 买了一件黄色的裙子。

It has stripes down it and an orange tie attached to the collar.

裙子上有条纹， 衣领上系着一条橙色的领带。

It is also beautiful.

裙子也很漂亮。

My grandmother Isa is married to my grandfather, Harry,

我的祖母艾莎 嫁给了我的祖父哈里，

and this dress is the favorite of all her dresses

这条裙子是她所有裙子里最喜欢的一条

because it's shorter than the rest,

因为这条比其他更短，

meaning he gets to see more of her legs.

意味着他可以看到她腿的更多部分。

(Laughter)

（笑声）

She wears it a lot for herself and for him,

她为了自己和他穿了很多次，

and she brings it with her in the 1960s when she comes to England.

20世纪60年代时她带着它来到英国。

Flash forward six decades

快进到六十年后

and I'm sitting with her in her room in the summer of 2018

2018年夏天， 我和她坐在她的房间里

and she gives this dress to me,

她把这条裙子给我，

entrusting me with its 60-year-long story.

把它60年的故事托付给我。

And in doing so, she teaches me an unshakable lesson

这样做，她教给了我 坚定不移的一课

about what it means to truly value what we own.

关于如何真正珍惜 我们所拥有的东西。

That lesson meant everything to me.

这一课对我来说意味着一切。

It meant everything when I went to work at a second-hand clothes tech company

当我在一家二手服装 科技公司工作时它代表一切

and it meant everything when I left to start my own startup, SOJO,

当我离开去创办自己 的公司SOJO时它代表一切，

a fashion-tech solution that's revolutionizing

一个革命性的 时尚科技解决方案

the clothing repair and tailoring industry.

服装修理和裁缝业。

And it continues to mean everything here today.

直到现在 它依旧代表了一切

Valuing clothes that we own is not the cultural norm.

重视我们拥有的衣服 并不是一种文化规范。

I've grown up as part of the fast fashion generation,

我成长于快时尚的一代，

which is all about overconsumption and hyper disposability of clothing,

这都是关于过度消费 和过度一次性化的衣服，

meaning we buy way too much

意味着我们买了太多，

and we throw it away without a second thought.

然后我们毫不犹豫地 把它们扔掉。

Think, "Oh, I've worn that top on Instagram,

想着，“哦，我在instagram 上穿过了这件上衣

so I don't want to wear it again."

所以我不想再穿它了。”

Or, "This shirt has ripped,

或，“这件衬衫破了

so I'm going to chuck it and get a new one."

所以我要把它扔掉，买一个新的。”

Or, "I've got a date lined up on Friday, so I'm going to buy a new outfit."

或，“我星期五有个约会， 所以我要去买一套新衣服。”

This is how we've been taught to engage with our clothes.

我们被教导 与衣服这样打交道的。

This is how I used to think.

我曾经也是这么想的。

But engaging with clothing in this way has an absolutely devastating cost,

但以这种方式处理衣服 代价绝对是毁灭性的，

a side we in the global North so rarely get to see.

我们在全球北方 很少能够看到的一面。

That top from that Instagram post that went to a charity shop

Instagram上那件 捐给慈善商店的上衣

instead of being reworn,

不是被重新穿上，

it could have ended up as one of 15 million items

它最终可能会成为 1500万件物品中的一件

arriving to the shores of Ghana each week.

每周抵达加纳海岸。

Or it could have ended up on the mountain of clothes

或者它可能会被扔到 堆积如山的衣服上

in the Atacama Desert in Chile, a pile so big,

在智利的阿塔卡马沙漠， 堆积非常大，

it's now viewable from space.

现在可以从太空中看到它。

Fashion waste levels have reached 92 million metric tons.

时尚垃圾已经达到了9200万吨。

To put that into perspective,

从这个角度来看，

because sometimes big numbers are really hard to conceptualize,

因为有时候很难对大的数字有概念，

if you took every single person that lived in Europe,

如果你把欧洲的每一个人

we're talking hundreds of millions of people,

我们说的是数亿人，

and you brought them all together

你把他们聚在一起

and you put them all on one massive weighing scale,

他们都站在一个巨大的体重秤上，

they still wouldn't be as heavy

他们依然比不过

as the amount of clothing waste we're producing annually.

我们每年产生的衣服垃圾的重量。

And it's growing and it's unsustainable.

而且还在增长，这是不可持续的。

But fashion waste is only one side of the coin.

但时尚浪费只是硬币的一面。

We are producing so many clothes

我们生产这么多衣服

that the fashion industry's carbon emissions each year

时装业每年的碳排放量

are more than all international air travel.

比所有国际航空飞行产生的都多。

So the question is,

问题是，

how do we go about generating less fashion waste

我们如何减少时尚垃圾的产生

and in turn reduce the amount of clothes we're producing?

从而减少我们生产的衣服的数量?

Well, to me, the answer is simple.

对我来说，答案很简单。

When we value clothes correctly,

当我们正确评价衣服的价值时，

we care for them, we repair them,

我们看重它们，修复它们，

we alter them to fit us, even if our bodies change,

即使我们的身体发生了变化， 我们改造它们以适应我们，

we don't just throw them away and buy more.

我们不直接扔到他们 然后买更多的衣服

But how did I, and how do we all,

但我和我们所有人该怎么做到，

go about changing our mindset away from one of disposability

改变我们的思维方式，远离一次性

and towards one of value and longevity?

朝着珍惜和持久的方向发展?

Well, I'd like to take you to look at my sister's jeans.

我想带大家看看我姐姐的牛仔裤。

My sister loves these jeans

我姐姐非常喜欢这些牛仔裤

ever since my parents bought them for her 15 years ago

从我父母15年前给她买的时候

before a trip to Copenhagen.

在去哥本哈根之前。

My sister is an artist.

我姐姐是一名艺术家。

There's nothing she loves more than to wear these jeans when she paints.

她画画的时候最喜欢穿这条牛仔裤了。

They're comfortable, durable,

它们舒适，耐用，

and she even uses them as a place to wipe her paintbrush.

她甚至把它们当作擦画笔的地方。

Now these jeans are made of denim, which is a natural fabric.

这些牛仔裤是由牛仔布制成的， 这是一种天然织物。

A lot of water,

很多水，

time and care has gone into making these jeans,

制作这些牛仔裤花费了时间和精力，

the time and care of many garment workers.

和许多制衣工人的时间和精力。

They have value,

他们有价值，

but their value has only grown over time

但它们的价值只会随着时间的推移而增长

as there are bits of paint on these jeans that match paintings around the world.

因为这些牛仔裤上的颜料 与世界各地的画作相匹配。

Think, there's a bit of yellow over here

想想看，这里有一点黄色

that matches yellow in a painting in a gallery in Korea.

与韩国画廊里的一幅画中的黄色相匹配。

Or a bit of red on this side that matches a painting in a home in Miami.

或者这边有一点红色 和迈阿密一户人家里的画相配。

How incredible is that?

这有多不可思议?

My sister's worn these jeans so much

我姐姐经常穿这条牛仔裤

that she's had to use SOJO to get them repaired twice,

她不得不用SOJO把它们修好两次

making them even more hers with every patch,

用每一片补丁让它们更加属于她，

making them even more valued with every stitch.

用每一针让它们更有价值。

There is so much beauty and power in repairing and caring for our clothes.

修理和保养我们的衣服时， 是如此美丽和具有力量。

So often sustainability can be about the need to give something up.

因此，可持续发展往往 意味着需要放弃某些东西。

But for me, sustainable fashion isn't about losing anything.

但对我来说，可持续时尚 并不意味着失去任何东西。

It's about gaining a deeper and truer happiness with the clothes that we own.

它是关于从我们拥有的衣服中 获得更深层次更真实的快乐。

More connection, more appreciation, and more intentional and personal joy.

更多的联系，更多的欣赏， 更多的意识的和个人的快乐。

I think we can all agree that my sister should not throw these jeans away.

我想我们都同意我妹妹 不应该把这些牛仔裤扔掉。

But that's just one example.

但这只是一个例子。

(Applause)

（鼓掌）

But that's just one example.

但这只是一个例子。

This pair of trousers that I've had tailored to fit

这条裤子是我修改后的

that I'm now wearing on the stage at TED,

是我现在在TED台上穿的这件，

they shouldn't be thrown away either.

它们也不应该被扔掉。

Neither should that dress that I bought a couple of summers ago

我几年前夏天买的那条裙子也不应该

with my best friend on a sunny day in a Camden charity shop.

是和我最好的朋友在一个晴天下 在卡姆登的一家慈善商店里买的

Neither should that jumper that I was wearing

我穿的那件套头衫也不应该

when my dad looked at me and said he was proud of me.

当我爸爸看着我说他为我感到骄傲。

Clothing can just be clothing.

衣服可以只是衣服。

It can be a quick fix, a passing trend,

它可以是暂时的，一种转瞬即逝的趋势，

a forgettable item that we wear once for that random date.

是一件我们在随机的约会中只穿一次的 容易忘记的衣服。

Or it can be something thoughtful,

或者代表有意义的事情，

a material, style and shape that works for us,

一种适合我们的材料、风格和形状，

something we want to wear over and over again

我们想要一遍又一遍地穿的衣服

and something that embodies

和代表了

the story and the experiences of our life.

我们生活中的故事和经历。

Every single one of us is wearing clothing.

我们每一个人都穿着衣服。

So I want you to stop for a second and think.

所以我想让你们停下来想一想。

That top, those trousers.

那件上衣，那条裤子。

Do you know which field in which country across the world

你知道世界上哪个国家的哪个领域

grew that amazing cotton?

种植那种神奇的棉花?

Which woman with what family and what life sewed your seam together?

哪个有着什么样家庭和 什么样生活的女人把它们缝在了一起?

Where have you worn those clothes?

你在哪里穿过那些衣服?

What experiences have you had in them?

你拥有它们的时候有什么经历?

Will you still have them in 60 years' time?

60年后你还会拥有它们吗?

Why wouldn't you?

你为什么不呢?

Imagine if when you were giving an item away,

想象一下，当你送人一件东西时，

you saw the entire creation journey of that item.

你看到了那件物品的整个创作过程。

And you saw all the times that you'd worn it.

你看到了你一直穿戴着它。

There is no denying that responsibility

不可否认的说，

for this unsustainable system that we live in lies with governments,

我们生活的这个不可持续 的体系的责任在于政府、

legislation, corporations and brands.

立法机构、企业和品牌。

But there's also no denying

但同样不可否认的

that we are the ones doing the insatiable amounts of buying

我们是无止境地购物的人

and we are the ones doing the throwing away.

我们也是在扔垃圾的人。

And with that, there is so much power and opportunity for us

因此，我们就有了这么多的力量和机会

to collectively move ourselves away from a culture

让我们共同摆脱一种文化

in which what we buy is easily thrown away

我们轻易扔掉买的东西的文化

and instead move us to a culture

而我们要进入一种文化

in which what we buy is loved and valued more.

我们更珍惜和爱护所购买的东西。

I've just been talking about clothing today,

今天我只是谈论衣服，

but really I could be talking about anything

但我真正想聊的是所有事情

as our problems of overconsumption and waste go far beyond

因为我们过度消费 和浪费的问题远远超越了

just the clothing industry.

服装行业。

We need to buy less stuff

我们需要少买东西

and we need to look after what we buy.

我们需要照顾好我们买的东西。

It will mean less global waste,

这将意味着减少全球浪费，

less global production and a reduced negative impact on this planet.

减少全球生产， 减少对地球的负面影响。

Valuing the things that we own is a climate solution.

重视我们拥有的东西 是解决气候问题的方案。

So next time you buy something --

所以下次你买东西的时候

(Applause)

（鼓掌）

So next time you buy something,

所以下次你买东西的时候

maybe it's a pair of jeans for a trip to Copenhagen,

也许是一条去哥本哈根旅行穿的牛仔裤，

or maybe you're in a market in Sierra Leone

或者你在塞拉利昂的一个市场

and you come across a yellow dress,

你看到一条黄色的裙子，

I want you to think "Do I need this?"

我想让你想想“我需要这个吗”

"What has it taken for this item to get here to me in my hands?"

“这件东西是怎么到我手里来的?”

"What story can I create alongside this item?"

“我可以与这件物品 一同创造什么样的故事?”

And "Will I really, truly value it?"

以及“我真的，真的会珍惜它吗?”

Thank you.

谢谢。

(Cheers and applause)

（欢呼和鼓掌）