The Simple Solution to Fast Fashion | Josephine Philips | TED

翻訳: Haruna Itogawa 校正: Eriko Tsukamoto

I'd like to take you all back to the late 1950s in Sierra Leone.

皆さんを1950年代後半の シエラレオネにお連れしましょう

My 93-year-old grandmother is about my age.

現在93歳の祖母は 当時 今の私くらいの年で

She lives in Freetown.

フリータウンという 暑い街に住んでいて

It is hot and she is beautiful.

祖母は花盛りです

She goes to a market one day and she buys a yellow dress.

ある日 祖母は市場で 黄色いワンピースを買います

It has stripes down it and an orange tie attached to the collar.

ストライプ柄で オレンジ色のネクタイがあり

It is also beautiful.

とても素敵です

My grandmother Isa is married to my grandfather, Harry,

祖母アイサは 祖父ハリーと結婚し

and this dress is the favorite of all her dresses

祖父も このワンピースが お気に入りでした

because it's shorter than the rest,

丈が短く 脚の露出が多いからでしょう

meaning he gets to see more of her legs.

(Laughter)

（笑）

She wears it a lot for herself and for him,

祖母はこのワンピースを愛用し 1960年代に渡英する時も持参しました

and she brings it with her in the 1960s when she comes to England.

Flash forward six decades

60年後の2018年夏

and I'm sitting with her in her room in the summer of 2018

祖母は一緒に部屋にいた私に その服を私にくれました

and she gives this dress to me,

entrusting me with its 60-year-long story.

60年の物語と共に その服を私に託したのです

この経験を通して祖母は 揺るぎない教訓を教えてくれました

And in doing so, she teaches me an unshakable lesson

about what it means to truly value what we own.

自分の持ち物を 心から大切にする精神です

That lesson meant everything to me.

これは私の指針となりました

It meant everything when I went to work at a second-hand clothes tech company

古着を扱うITの会社に勤めた時も

and it meant everything when I left to start my own startup, SOJO,

SOJOという会社を始めた時もです

a fashion-tech solution that's revolutionizing

SOJOは服の仕立てや修繕の 服飾技術業界に革新をもたらしています

the clothing repair and tailoring industry.

And it continues to mean everything here today.

祖母の教えは 今も私の指針です

Valuing clothes that we own is not the cultural norm.

既存の服を大切にすることは 現在 一般的ではありません

I've grown up as part of the fast fashion generation,

私は「ファストファッション」の世代で

which is all about overconsumption and hyper disposability of clothing,

服の過剰消費と大量廃棄の時代に 育ちました

meaning we buy way too much

過剰に購入し ためらいなく捨ててしまいます

and we throw it away without a second thought.

Think, "Oh, I've worn that top on Instagram,

“あの服を着た写真をインスタに載せたから もう着ない”

so I don't want to wear it again."

Or, "This shirt has ripped,

“シャツが破れたから 捨てて新しいのを買おう”

so I'm going to chuck it and get a new one."

Or, "I've got a date lined up on Friday, so I'm going to buy a new outfit."

“金曜のデートのために 新しい服を買おう”

This is how we've been taught to engage with our clothes.

私たちは こうして服と付き合うのだと学び

This is how I used to think.

私もその一人でした

But engaging with clothing in this way has an absolutely devastating cost,

でも こうした付き合い方には 多大な代償が伴うのです

a side we in the global North so rarely get to see.

先進国の私たちが ほとんど注目しない面です

That top from that Instagram post that went to a charity shop

インスタに投稿されたトップスは

再び着られることなく チャリティーショップに送られ

instead of being reworn,

it could have ended up as one of 15 million items

最終的な行き先は 毎週1500万着もの服が届くガーナか

arriving to the shores of Ghana each week.

Or it could have ended up on the mountain of clothes

チリのアタカマ砂漠にある 服の山かもしれません

in the Atacama Desert in Chile, a pile so big,

巨大な服の山は 宇宙から見えるほどです

it's now viewable from space.

Fashion waste levels have reached 92 million metric tons.

ファッション廃棄物は 年間9200万トンにも達します

To put that into perspective,

大きな数字は想像しにくいので 分かりやすく言うと

because sometimes big numbers are really hard to conceptualize,

ヨーロッパの全人口を

if you took every single person that lived in Europe,

we're talking hundreds of millions of people,

それも何億人という人々を 集めて体重計にのせた重さよりも

and you brought them all together

and you put them all on one massive weighing scale,

１年間に廃棄される服の方が重いのです

they still wouldn't be as heavy

as the amount of clothing waste we're producing annually.

And it's growing and it's unsustainable.

しかも廃棄量は増える一方で これは持続不能です

But fashion waste is only one side of the coin.

でも服の廃棄は 問題の一部に過ぎません

We are producing so many clothes

過剰な生産により

that the fashion industry's carbon emissions each year

ファッション業界が排出する 二酸化炭素量は

are more than all international air travel.

国際航空便の総排出量よりも 多いのです

So the question is,

つまり問題は

how do we go about generating less fashion waste

どうやって廃棄される服の量を減らすか

and in turn reduce the amount of clothes we're producing?

そして服を生産する量を減らすかです

Well, to me, the answer is simple.

私からすると答えは単純です

When we value clothes correctly,

服の価値を適切に見い出せば

we care for them, we repair them,

捨てて新しく買うのではなく

we alter them to fit us, even if our bodies change,

体型が変わっても 体に合うように仕立て直して

we don't just throw them away and buy more.

大切に着るでしょう

But how did I, and how do we all,

ではどうすれば 使い捨ての考え方から

go about changing our mindset away from one of disposability

and towards one of value and longevity?

ものを長く大事に使う考え方へ 変えられるのか？

Well, I'd like to take you to look at my sister's jeans.

ヒントは 姉のジーンズにあります

My sister loves these jeans

これは姉のお気に入りで

ever since my parents bought them for her 15 years ago

15年前 コペンハーゲンへ旅行に行く前に 両親が買ったものです

before a trip to Copenhagen.

My sister is an artist.

姉は画家で 絵を描く時によくこれを履いています

There's nothing she loves more than to wear these jeans when she paints.

着心地が良く 丈夫で

They're comfortable, durable,

and she even uses them as a place to wipe her paintbrush.

絵筆を拭くのにも便利です

Now these jeans are made of denim, which is a natural fabric.

ジーンズは 天然素材のデニムから作られます

A lot of water,

製造には 大量の水と時間と手間が必要です

time and care has gone into making these jeans,

the time and care of many garment workers.

多くの労働力も必要です

They have value,

このジーンズには価値があり

but their value has only grown over time

時と共に価値は増していきました

as there are bits of paint on these jeans that match paintings around the world.

ジーンズに付いた絵の具は 世界各地に散らばる作品に使われたものです

Think, there's a bit of yellow over here

この部分の黄色は 韓国の画廊にある絵の黄色で

that matches yellow in a painting in a gallery in Korea.

Or a bit of red on this side that matches a painting in a home in Miami.

ここの赤は マイアミの家に飾られた絵の赤

How incredible is that?

素敵だと思いませんか？

My sister's worn these jeans so much

姉はこのジーンズを愛用し

that she's had to use SOJO to get them repaired twice,

私の会社SOJOで ２度も修繕しました

making them even more hers with every patch,

継ぎ当てるごとに自分らしくなり

making them even more valued with every stitch.

繕うごとに愛着が増します

There is so much beauty and power in repairing and caring for our clothes.

服を繕い大切にすることには 美と力があります

So often sustainability can be about the need to give something up.

持続可能性とは 何かを諦めることだと 思われがちですが

But for me, sustainable fashion isn't about losing anything.

私にとって 持続可能なファッションとは 何かを失うことではなく

It's about gaining a deeper and truer happiness with the clothes that we own.

自分の服から 本当の意味の幸せを得ること

More connection, more appreciation, and more intentional and personal joy.

繋がりや ありがたみを感じ 使うことで喜びを得ることです

I think we can all agree that my sister should not throw these jeans away.

姉はこのジーンズを捨てるべきではないと 皆さん納得するはずです

But that's just one example.

これは一例です (拍手)

(Applause)

But that's just one example.

一例に過ぎません

This pair of trousers that I've had tailored to fit

私がこのステージ上で履いている 仕立てたズボンも

that I'm now wearing on the stage at TED,

捨てるべきではありません

they shouldn't be thrown away either.

Neither should that dress that I bought a couple of summers ago

数年前の夏の晴れた日に 親友と行った

with my best friend on a sunny day in a Camden charity shop.

カムデンのリサイクルショップで 買ったワンピースも

Neither should that jumper that I was wearing

“誇りに思うよ” と 父が言ってくれたセーターも

when my dad looked at me and said he was proud of me.

Clothing can just be clothing.

服は単に着る物

It can be a quick fix, a passing trend,

一時しのぎの物 流行物

a forgettable item that we wear once for that random date.

一度デートで着たきり忘れる物 かもしれません

Or it can be something thoughtful,

一方で 想いが詰まった物

a material, style and shape that works for us,

自分に合った素材やデザインで 何度も着たい物

something we want to wear over and over again

and something that embodies

個々の人生経験や物語を 体現した物にもなり得ます

the story and the experiences of our life.

私たちは皆 服を着ています

Every single one of us is wearing clothing.

So I want you to stop for a second and think.

そこで一度 考えてみてほしいのです

That top, those trousers.

あのトップス あのズボンは

Do you know which field in which country across the world

どこで栽培された綿を使っているか 知っていますか？

grew that amazing cotton?

Which woman with what family and what life sewed your seam together?

どんな家族を持ち どんな生活をした人が その服を縫ったのか

Where have you worn those clothes?

その服を着て どこに行ったか どんな経験をしたか

What experiences have you had in them?

Will you still have them in 60 years' time?

60年後も手元にあると思うか

Why wouldn't you?

なぜ手放すのか

Imagine if when you were giving an item away,

服を手放す時

you saw the entire creation journey of that item.

その製造過程を想像し

And you saw all the times that you'd worn it.

着た時のことを 思い出したらどうでしょう

There is no denying that responsibility

今の持続不能な社会への責任が

for this unsustainable system that we live in lies with governments,

政府 法律 企業 ブランドにあるのは 否定できません

legislation, corporations and brands.

But there's also no denying

でも私たち消費者が 大量に購入し廃棄していることも

that we are the ones doing the insatiable amounts of buying

and we are the ones doing the throwing away.

否定できません

And with that, there is so much power and opportunity for us

そうであれば 使い捨て文化から脱却し

to collectively move ourselves away from a culture

買った物を大切にする文化へ 移行するために

in which what we buy is easily thrown away

and instead move us to a culture

私たちにできることは たくさんあります

in which what we buy is loved and valued more.

I've just been talking about clothing today,

服の話をしてきましたが

but really I could be talking about anything

服のみならず

as our problems of overconsumption and waste go far beyond

過剰消費と大量廃棄の問題は 他の産業にも当てはまります

just the clothing industry.

We need to buy less stuff

買う物を減らし

and we need to look after what we buy.

買った物は大切に使う

It will mean less global waste,

そうすれば 廃棄量も生産量も減り

less global production and a reduced negative impact on this planet.

地球への悪影響も減るでしょう

Valuing the things that we own is a climate solution.

持ち物を大切にすることが 気候問題の解決に繋がるのです

So next time you buy something --

今度 何かを買う時

(Applause)

(拍手)

So next time you buy something,

今度 何かを買う時

maybe it's a pair of jeans for a trip to Copenhagen,

それはコペンハーゲン旅行のための ジーンズかもしれないし

or maybe you're in a market in Sierra Leone

シラレオネの市場で見つけた 黄色いワンピースかもしれませんが

and you come across a yellow dress,

I want you to think "Do I need this?"

自分に問いかけてみて下さい “本当に必要か？”

"What has it taken for this item to get here to me in my hands?"

“どれほどの資源や労力が 費やされたのか？”

"What story can I create alongside this item?"

“この服と どんな物語を紡いでいけるか？”

And "Will I really, truly value it?"

“心から大切にできるだろうか？” と

Thank you.

ありがとうございました

(Cheers and applause)

(歓声と拍手)