The Simple Solution to Fast Fashion | Josephine Philips | TED

Translator: annisa putri Reviewer: Evarini Dairi

I'd like to take you all back to the late 1950s in Sierra Leone.

Saya mau mengajak kalian kembali ke akhir 1950-an di Sierra Leone.

My 93-year-old grandmother is about my age.

Nenek saya berusia 93 tahun saat itu seusia saya.

She lives in Freetown.

Dia tinggal di Freetown.

It is hot and she is beautiful.

Kota yang panas dan dia cantik.

She goes to a market one day and she buys a yellow dress.

Dia pergi ke pasar suatu hari dan membeli gaun kuning.

It has stripes down it and an orange tie attached to the collar.

Gaun bergaris-garis di bagian bawah dan ada dasi jingga di kerah.

It is also beautiful.

Gaun yang indah.

My grandmother Isa is married to my grandfather, Harry,

Nenek saya, Isa, menikah dengan kakek, Harry,

and this dress is the favorite of all her dresses

dan gaun ini menjadi favorit dari semua gaunnya

because it's shorter than the rest,

karena lebih pendek daripada gaunnya yang lain,

meaning he gets to see more of her legs.

agar kakek bisa melihat kakinya.

(Laughter)

(Tawa)

She wears it a lot for herself and for him,

DIa sering memakainya untuk dirinya dan kakek,

and she brings it with her in the 1960s when she comes to England.

dan dia membawanya di tahun 1960-an saat datang ke Inggris.

Flash forward six decades

Setelah 60 tahun,

and I'm sitting with her in her room in the summer of 2018

saya duduk bersamanya di kamarnya saat musim panas 2018

and she gives this dress to me,

dan dia memberikan gaun ini pada saya,

entrusting me with its 60-year-long story.

menceritakan kisah panjangnya selama 60 tahun itu.

And in doing so, she teaches me an unshakable lesson

Dengan cara itu, dia mengajari saya suatu prinsip keteguhan

about what it means to truly value what we own.

tentang menghargai apa yang kita miliki.

That lesson meant everything to me.

Ajaran itu sangat berarti bagi saya.

It meant everything when I went to work at a second-hand clothes tech company

Itu sangat berarti saat saya bekerja di perusahaan teknologi pakaian bekas

and it meant everything when I left to start my own startup, SOJO,

dan juga saat memulai perusahaan rintisan saya sendiri, SOJO,

a fashion-tech solution that's revolutionizing

sebuah solusi teknologi fesyen yang merevolusi

the clothing repair and tailoring industry.

industri permak dan jahit pakaian.

And it continues to mean everything here today.

Dan itu tetap berharga hingga kini.

Valuing clothes that we own is not the cultural norm.

Menghargai pakaian kita bukanlah soal norma budaya.

I've grown up as part of the fast fashion generation,

Saya dibesarkan dalam budaya fesyen cepat,

which is all about overconsumption and hyper disposability of clothing,

yaitu konsumsi pakaian yang berlebihan dan terlalu sering dibuang,

meaning we buy way too much

artinya kita membeli terlalu banyak

and we throw it away without a second thought.

dan membuangnya tanpa berpikir panjang.

Berpikir, "Saya sudah pernah memakai atasan itu di Instagram,

Think, "Oh, I've worn that top on Instagram,

so I don't want to wear it again."

jadi saya tak mau memakainya lagi."

Or, "This shirt has ripped,

Atau, “Kemeja ini sobek,

so I'm going to chuck it and get a new one."

jadi buang saja dan beli yang baru.”

Or, "I've got a date lined up on Friday, so I'm going to buy a new outfit."

Atau, “Saya berkencan di hari Jumat, jadi saya akan membeli baju baru.”

This is how we've been taught to engage with our clothes.

Inilah yang diajarkan ke kita soal konsumsi pakaian.

This is how I used to think.

Inilah cara saya dulu berpikir.

But engaging with clothing in this way has an absolutely devastating cost,

Namun, cara konsumsi pakaian seperti ini memerlukan biaya besar,

a side we in the global North so rarely get to see.

sisi yang jarang sekali kita temui di belahan dunia Utara.

That top from that Instagram post that went to a charity shop

Atasan yang dipakai untuk unggahan Instagram

disumbangkan ke toko amal alih-alih dipakai ulang,

instead of being reworn,

it could have ended up as one of 15 million items

itu bisa saja berakhir menjadi salah satu dari 15 juta barang

arriving to the shores of Ghana each week.

yang tiba di pantai Ghana tiap minggunya.

Or it could have ended up on the mountain of clothes

Atau bisa saja berakhir di gunungan pakaian

in the Atacama Desert in Chile, a pile so big,

di Gurun Atacama di Chili, tumpukan yang begitu besar,

it's now viewable from space.

bahkan bisa dilihat dari luar angkasa.

Fashion waste levels have reached 92 million metric tons.

Tingkat limbah fesyen telah mencapai 92 juta metrik ton.

To put that into perspective,

Sebagai perspektif,

because sometimes big numbers are really hard to conceptualize,

karena terkadang angka besar sulit dikonsepkan,

if you took every single person that lived in Europe,

jika Anda menghitung tiap orang yang tinggal di Eropa,

we're talking hundreds of millions of people,

jumlahnya mencapai ratusan juta orang,

and you brought them all together

dan menyatukan mereka semua

and you put them all on one massive weighing scale,

dan menempatkannya pada satu timbangan besar,

they still wouldn't be as heavy

mereka tak akan seberat

as the amount of clothing waste we're producing annually.

jumlah limbah pakaian yang dihasilkan tiap tahunnya.

And it's growing and it's unsustainable.

Dan itu terus bertambah dan tak berkelanjutan.

But fashion waste is only one side of the coin.

Namun, limbah fesyen hanyalah satu sisi sebuah koin.

We are producing so many clothes

Kita memproduksi begitu banyak pakaian

that the fashion industry's carbon emissions each year

sehingga emisi karbon industri fesyen meningkat tiap tahunnya

are more than all international air travel.

melebihi perjalanan udara internasional.

So the question is,

Pertanyaannya adalah,

how do we go about generating less fashion waste

bagaimana cara membuat sesedikit mungkin limbah fesyen

and in turn reduce the amount of clothes we're producing?

sehingga bisa mengurangi jumlah pakaian yang diproduksi?

Well, to me, the answer is simple.

Bagi saya, jawabannya sederhana.

When we value clothes correctly,

Saat kita menghargai pakaian dengan benar,

we care for them, we repair them,

kita merawatnya, memermaknya,

we alter them to fit us, even if our bodies change,

menyesuaikannya dengan tubuh kita, meski tubuh berubah,

we don't just throw them away and buy more.

kita tak perlu membuangnya dan membeli lebih banyak.

But how did I, and how do we all,

Bagaimana saya dan kita semua,

go about changing our mindset away from one of disposability

mengubah pola pikir sekali buang,

and towards one of value and longevity?

menjadi lebih bernilai dan tahan lama?

Well, I'd like to take you to look at my sister's jeans.

Contohnya celana jin adik saya.

My sister loves these jeans

Adik saya suka sekali dengan jinnya.

ever since my parents bought them for her 15 years ago

sejak orang tua saya membelikannya 15 tahun lalu

before a trip to Copenhagen.

sebelum perjalanan ke Kopenhagen.

My sister is an artist.

Adik saya seniman.

There's nothing she loves more than to wear these jeans when she paints.

Dia sangat suka memakai jin ini saat melukis.

They're comfortable, durable,

Jinnya nyaman, tahan lama,

and she even uses them as a place to wipe her paintbrush.

dan dia memakainya sebagai penyeka kuas.

Now these jeans are made of denim, which is a natural fabric.

Jin ini terbuat dari bahan denim, yang merupakan kain alami.

A lot of water,

Memerlukan banyak air,

time and care has gone into making these jeans,

waktu dan perhatian dalam pembuatannya,

the time and care of many garment workers.

waktu dan perhatian para pekerja garmen.

They have value,

Jin ini punya nilai,

but their value has only grown over time

tapi hilang seiring berjalannya waktu

as there are bits of paint on these jeans that match paintings around the world.

sebab ada bekas cat di jin ini yang mirip dengan lukisan-lukisan di seluruh dunia.

Think, there's a bit of yellow over here

Pikirkanlah, ada sedikit warna kuning di sini

that matches yellow in a painting in a gallery in Korea.

yang cocok dengan lukisan di galeri di Korea.

Or a bit of red on this side that matches a painting in a home in Miami.

Atau sedikit merah di sisi ini yang cocok dengan lukisan

di sebuah rumah di Miami.

How incredible is that?

Luar biasa, bukan?

My sister's worn these jeans so much

Adik saya sering memakai jin ini

that she's had to use SOJO to get them repaired twice,

sampai harus memakai SOJO untuk memermaknya dua kali,

making them even more hers with every patch,

menjadikannya sebagai ciri khasnya di tiap tambalan,

making them even more valued with every stitch.

membuatnya lebih dihargai di tiap jahitan.

There is so much beauty and power in repairing and caring for our clothes.

Ada banyak keindahan dan kekuatan pada permak dan perawatan pakaian kita.

So often sustainability can be about the need to give something up.

Sering kali, keberlanjutan berarti harus merelakan sesuatu.

But for me, sustainable fashion isn't about losing anything.

Namun bagi saya, fesyen berkelanjutan bukanlah soal kehilangan sesuatu.

It's about gaining a deeper and truer happiness with the clothes that we own.

Ini soal mendapat kebahagiaan lebih dalam dan sejati dari pakaian yang dimiliki.

More connection, more appreciation, and more intentional and personal joy.

Lebih terhubung, lebih menghargai, menjadi kebiasaan dan rasa senang.

I think we can all agree that my sister should not throw these jeans away.

Saya rasa semua setuju jika adik saya tak boleh membuang jin ini.

But that's just one example.

Itu hanyalah satu contoh.

(Applause)

(Tepuk tangan)

But that's just one example.

Itu hanyalah satu contoh.

This pair of trousers that I've had tailored to fit

Celana panjang ini telah saya sesuaikan agar pas

that I'm now wearing on the stage at TED,

dan kini saya memakainya di panggung TED,

they shouldn't be thrown away either.

celana ini juga tak boleh dibuang.

Neither should that dress that I bought a couple of summers ago

Sama seperti gaun yang saya beli pada musim panas lalu

with my best friend on a sunny day in a Camden charity shop.

dengan sahabat saya di hari yang cerah di toko amal Camden.

Neither should that jumper that I was wearing

Begitu pula jumper yang saya pakai

when my dad looked at me and said he was proud of me.

saat ayah saya menatap dan barkata jika dia bangga pada saya.

Clothing can just be clothing.

Pakaian memang hanyalah pakaian.

It can be a quick fix, a passing trend,

Itu bisa menjadi solusi cepat, tren sesaat,

a forgettable item that we wear once for that random date.

barang yang terlupakan saat dipakai sekali untuk tanggal tertentu.

Or it can be something thoughtful,

Atau bisa menjadi sesuatu yang berharga,

a material, style and shape that works for us,

bahan, gaya dan bentuk yang cocok untuk kita,

something we want to wear over and over again

sesuatu yang mau kita pakai berulang kali

and something that embodies

dan sesuatu yang menyiratkan

the story and the experiences of our life.

cerita dan pengalaman hidup kita.

Every single one of us is wearing clothing.

Kita semua memakai pakaian.

So I want you to stop for a second and think.

Saya mau Anda berpikir sejenak.

That top, those trousers.

Atasan itu, celana panjang itu.

Do you know which field in which country across the world

Tahukah Anda di ladang negara mana di dunia ini

grew that amazing cotton?

yang menanam kapas luar biasa itu?

Which woman with what family and what life sewed your seam together?

Wanita dari keluarga mana dan bagaimana hidupnya

hingga bisa menjahit baju Anda?

Where have you worn those clothes?

Di mana Anda memakai pakaian itu?

What experiences have you had in them?

Pengalaman apa yang Anda punya mengenainya?

Will you still have them in 60 years' time?

Apa Anda masih memilikinya 60 tahun ke depan?

Why wouldn't you?

Mengapa Anda tak mau?

Imagine if when you were giving an item away,

Bayangkan saat Anda memberikan suatu barang,

you saw the entire creation journey of that item.

Anda melihat seluruh riwayat pembuatan barang itu.

And you saw all the times that you'd worn it.

Dan menyadari jika Anda terus memakainya.

Tak bisa disangkal jika tanggung jawab

There is no denying that responsibility

for this unsustainable system that we live in lies with governments,

atas sistem ketakberkelanjutan yang kita jalani ada pada pemerintah,

legislation, corporations and brands.

undang-undang, perusahaan, dan merek.

But there's also no denying

Juga tak bisa disangkal

that we are the ones doing the insatiable amounts of buying

jika kitalah yang membeli dalam jumlah yang berlebihan

and we are the ones doing the throwing away.

dan kita pulalah yang membuangnya.

And with that, there is so much power and opportunity for us

Dengan itu, ada banyak kekuatan dan peluang bagi kita

to collectively move ourselves away from a culture

secara kolektif menjauhi suatu budaya

in which what we buy is easily thrown away

membuang sesuatu yang dibeli dengan mudah,

and instead move us to a culture

dan beralih ke budaya

in which what we buy is loved and valued more.

mencintai apa yang dibeli dan lebih menghargainya.

I've just been talking about clothing today,

Saya baru saja membahas soal pakaian hari ini,

but really I could be talking about anything

tapi saya juga bisa membahas apa pun

as our problems of overconsumption and waste go far beyond

karena masalah konsumsi berlebihan dan limbah jauh lebih besar

just the clothing industry.

daripada industri pakaian.

We need to buy less stuff

Kita perlu membeli barang lebih sedikit

and we need to look after what we buy.

dan perlu merawat apa yang di beli.

It will mean less global waste,

Artinya berkurangnya limbah global,

less global production and a reduced negative impact on this planet.

berkurangnya produksi global dan dampak negatif di planet ini.

Valuing the things that we own is a climate solution.

Menghargai barang yang dimiliki adalah solusi iklim.

So next time you buy something --

Jadi, lain kali Anda membeli sesuatu,

(Applause)

(Tepuk tangan)

So next time you buy something,

Lain kali Anda membeli sesuatu,

maybe it's a pair of jeans for a trip to Copenhagen,

mungkin celana jin untuk ke Kopenhagen,

or maybe you're in a market in Sierra Leone

atau mungkin saat Anda di pasar di Sierra Leone,

and you come across a yellow dress,

dan Anda menemukan gaun kuning,

I want you to think "Do I need this?"

saya mau Anda berpikir “Apa saya memerlukan ini?”

"What has it taken for this item to get here to me in my hands?"

"Proses apa sajakah yang dilalui hingga barang ini sampai ke tangan saya?"

"What story can I create alongside this item?"

“Cerita apa yang bisa saya buat bersama barang ini?”

And "Will I really, truly value it?"

Dan “Apa saya akan benar-benar menghargainya?”

Thank you.

Terima kasih.

(Cheers and applause)

(Bersorak dan tepuk tangan)