The Simple Solution to Fast Fashion | Josephine Philips | TED

譯者: Lilian Chiu 審譯者: 麗玲 辛

I'd like to take you all back to the late 1950s in Sierra Leone.

我想帶大家回到 1950 年代末的獅子山。

My 93-year-old grandmother is about my age.

那時，我九十三歲的祖母 大約是我現在的年齡。

She lives in Freetown.

她住在自由城。

It is hot and she is beautiful.

天氣很熱，而她很美麗。

She goes to a market one day and she buys a yellow dress.

有一天，她去市場 買了一件黃色的洋裝。

It has stripes down it and an orange tie attached to the collar.

洋裝上有條紋，領子上 有個橘色的領帶。

It is also beautiful.

它也很美麗。

My grandmother Isa is married to my grandfather, Harry,

我的祖母艾莎嫁給了我的祖父哈利，

and this dress is the favorite of all her dresses

這件洋裝是她最愛的洋裝， 因為它比其他洋裝都更短，

because it's shorter than the rest,

meaning he gets to see more of her legs.

這意味著她會露出 更多腿給他看。（笑聲）

(Laughter)

She wears it a lot for herself and for him,

她為了他和自己，經常穿這件洋裝，

and she brings it with her in the 1960s when she comes to England.

1960 年代，她來到英國時也帶著它。

Flash forward six decades

快轉六十年，

and I'm sitting with her in her room in the summer of 2018

2018 年夏天，我和她 坐在她的房間裡，

and she gives this dress to me,

她把這件衣服給了我，

entrusting me with its 60-year-long story.

把它背後六十年的 漫長故事託付給我。

透過這麼做，她教了我 牢不可破的一課，

And in doing so, she teaches me an unshakable lesson

about what it means to truly value what we own.

她教了我「珍惜擁有事物」的真締。

That lesson meant everything to me.

那一課對我意義非凡。

It meant everything when I went to work at a second-hand clothes tech company

當我去二手服裝科技公司 工作時，它對我意義非凡，

and it meant everything when I left to start my own startup, SOJO,

當我離開去創立自己的新創公司 SOJO 時，這課對我也意義非凡，

a fashion-tech solution that's revolutionizing

SOJO 提供時尚科技解決方案， 改革服裝修補和裁縫產業。

the clothing repair and tailoring industry.

And it continues to mean everything here today.

它非凡的意義持續到今天這裡。

Valuing clothes that we own is not the cultural norm.

珍視我們擁有的衣服 並不是現今的文化規範。

I've grown up as part of the fast fashion generation,

成長過程中，我屬於快時尚的世代，

which is all about overconsumption and hyper disposability of clothing,

這個世代的特性是 過度消費服裝和超高廢棄率。

meaning we buy way too much

意思就是我們買太多了， 且想都不想就把它們丟棄。

and we throw it away without a second thought.

Think, "Oh, I've worn that top on Instagram,

比如：「喔，我已經在 IG 上 穿過那件上衣了，不想再穿了。」

so I don't want to wear it again."

Or, "This shirt has ripped,

或：「這件襯衫已經破了， 我打算扔掉它再買件新的。」

so I'm going to chuck it and get a new one."

Or, "I've got a date lined up on Friday, so I'm going to buy a new outfit."

或：「我星期五安排了約會， 所以我要去買一件新衣服。」

This is how we've been taught to engage with our clothes.

我們被教導這樣子處理我們的衣服。

This is how I used to think.

我以前就是這樣想的。

But engaging with clothing in this way has an absolutely devastating cost,

但，用這種方式處理衣服， 要付出的代價極高，

a side we in the global North so rarely get to see.

這是我們在北方世界 很難看見的面向。

That top from that Instagram post that went to a charity shop

出現在 IG 貼文中的那件上衣

沒有被再穿一次， 而是被送去慈善商店，

instead of being reworn,

it could have ended up as one of 15 million items

它的下場可能

和每週漂到迦納海岸的 一千五百萬件物品一樣。

arriving to the shores of Ghana each week.

Or it could have ended up on the mountain of clothes

它也可能淪落到

智利阿他加馬沙漠的衣服山上，

in the Atacama Desert in Chile, a pile so big,

這衣服堆已經大到 從太空都可以看見了。

it's now viewable from space.

Fashion waste levels have reached 92 million metric tons.

時尚產生的廢棄物 已經達到九千兩百萬公噸。

To put that into perspective,

用個比喻讓大家有點概念， 畢竟那麼大的數字有時很難想像：

because sometimes big numbers are really hard to conceptualize,

如果你把住在歐洲的每一個人，

if you took every single person that lived in Europe,

we're talking hundreds of millions of people,

也就是數億人，

and you brought them all together

把他們通通放在一個巨大的秤上，

and you put them all on one massive weighing scale,

他們的重量仍然比不上

they still wouldn't be as heavy

as the amount of clothing waste we're producing annually.

我們每年產生的時尚廢棄物。

And it's growing and it's unsustainable.

這類廢棄物還在增加，且很不永續。

But fashion waste is only one side of the coin.

但時尚廢棄物只是整件事的一個面向。

We are producing so many clothes

我們製造的衣服已經多到 讓時尚產業每年的碳排放

that the fashion industry's carbon emissions each year

are more than all international air travel.

超越所有的國際航空旅行。

So the question is,

所以，問題是，

how do we go about generating less fashion waste

我們要如何著手減少 我們產生的時尚廢棄物，

and in turn reduce the amount of clothes we're producing?

從而減少我們製造的的衣服？

Well, to me, the answer is simple.

嗯，對我來說，答案很簡單。

When we value clothes correctly,

當我們用正確的方式珍視衣服，

we care for them, we repair them,

我們就會照料、修補衣物，

we alter them to fit us, even if our bodies change,

即使體型改變， 也會把衣服改到合身，

we don't just throw them away and buy more.

我們不會把衣服扔掉，又去買更多。

But how did I, and how do we all,

我以前如何做到的， 可以給大家參考：

go about changing our mindset away from one of disposability

我改變了我的心態， 脫離了用完即丟的心態，

and towards one of value and longevity?

轉向珍惜和長久使用的心態。

Well, I'd like to take you to look at my sister's jeans.

我想讓大家看看我姐姐的牛仔褲。

My sister loves these jeans

我姐姐很愛這條牛仔褲，

ever since my parents bought them for her 15 years ago

那是十五年前我父母 在哥本哈根之旅前買給她的。

before a trip to Copenhagen.

My sister is an artist.

我姐姐是藝術家，她最愛 在畫畫時穿這條牛仔褲。

There's nothing she loves more than to wear these jeans when she paints.

這條牛仔褲很舒服、耐穿， 她甚至用它來擦她的畫筆。

They're comfortable, durable,

and she even uses them as a place to wipe her paintbrush.

Now these jeans are made of denim, which is a natural fabric.

這條牛仔褲是用丹寧布做的， 那是種天然布料。

A lot of water,

製造這條牛仔褲需要投入 大量的水、時間，和照料，

time and care has gone into making these jeans,

the time and care of many garment workers.

許多服裝工人的時間和照料。

They have value,

這條牛仔褲有價值，

but their value has only grown over time

但這價值是隨時間成長的，

as there are bits of paint on these jeans that match paintings around the world.

因為牛仔褲上有沾到一些顏料， 顏色和世界各地的畫作很搭。

Think, there's a bit of yellow over here

想想看，這裡有一點黃色，

that matches yellow in a painting in a gallery in Korea.

和韓國一間畫廊裡的一幅畫作相符。

Or a bit of red on this side that matches a painting in a home in Miami.

或者這裡有點紅色，和邁阿密 一間房子裡的一幅畫作相符。

How incredible is that?

那有多妙啊？

My sister's worn these jeans so much

我姐姐太常穿這條牛仔褲了，

that she's had to use SOJO to get them repaired twice,

以致於她得用 SOJO 修補它兩次。

making them even more hers with every patch,

每一塊補丁都讓 這條牛仔褲更個人化，

每一針都讓這條牛仔褲更有價值。

making them even more valued with every stitch.

There is so much beauty and power in repairing and caring for our clothes.

在修補和照料我們的衣服當中， 蘊含有如此強大的美麗和力量。

So often sustainability can be about the need to give something up.

通常，永續代表著 必須要放棄些什麼。

But for me, sustainable fashion isn't about losing anything.

但對我而言，永續時尚的 重點不是失去什麼，

It's about gaining a deeper and truer happiness with the clothes that we own.

而是從我們擁有的衣服中 得到更深刻更真實的快樂、

More connection, more appreciation, and more intentional and personal joy.

更多連結、更多欣賞，

以及更刻意和更個人化的喜悅。

I think we can all agree that my sister should not throw these jeans away.

我想大家都認同我姐姐 不應該把這條牛仔褲丟掉。

But that's just one example.

但這只是一個例子。（掌聲）

(Applause)

But that's just one example.

但這只是一個例子。

This pair of trousers that I've had tailored to fit

這條褲子我得拿去修改 才能穿得合身，

that I'm now wearing on the stage at TED,

我現在把它穿上 TED 的舞台，

它也不該被丟掉。

they shouldn't be thrown away either.

Neither should that dress that I bought a couple of summers ago

幾年前夏天一個豔陽高照的 日子，我和我最好的朋友

with my best friend on a sunny day in a Camden charity shop.

去肯頓的慈善商店購買的 那件洋裝也不該被丟掉。

Neither should that jumper that I was wearing

我爸爸看著我說他為我感到驕傲時，

when my dad looked at me and said he was proud of me.

我身上穿的那件工作服 也不該被丟掉。

Clothing can just be clothing.

衣服可以只是衣服，

It can be a quick fix, a passing trend,

可以是快速解決方案、一時的潮流、

a forgettable item that we wear once for that random date.

某次約會穿過一次就忘記的衣物。

Or it can be something thoughtful,

或者，它們也可能是很體貼的東西、

a material, style and shape that works for us,

適合我們的某種材質、風格，和外形，

something we want to wear over and over again

讓我們想一穿再穿，

and something that embodies

且能夠具體呈現

the story and the experiences of our life.

我們人生的故事和經歷。

我們每個人都要穿衣服。

Every single one of us is wearing clothing.

So I want you to stop for a second and think.

所以我想請大家停下來想一下。

That top, those trousers.

那件上衣，那些褲子。

Do you know which field in which country across the world

你們知道那麼好的棉花 是世界上哪個國家、

grew that amazing cotton?

哪塊田種植出來的嗎？

Which woman with what family and what life sewed your seam together?

接合處又是哪名女子親手縫合的？ 她擁有什麼樣的家庭和生活？

Where have you worn those clothes?

你在哪些地方穿過那些衣服？

What experiences have you had in them?

穿著它們時發生了那些經歷呢？

Will you still have them in 60 years' time?

六十年後你仍然會保有它們嗎？

Why wouldn't you?

為什麼不呢？

Imagine if when you were giving an item away,

想像一下，當你要把一項物品送人時，

you saw the entire creation journey of that item.

你知道那個物品的整個創造旅程，

And you saw all the times that you'd worn it.

你也記得你穿著它的所有時刻。

There is no denying that responsibility

我們生活在不永續的系統內， 要為此負責的無可否認就是

for this unsustainable system that we live in lies with governments,

政府、立法、企業，和品牌。

legislation, corporations and brands.

But there's also no denying

但無可否認，

that we are the ones doing the insatiable amounts of buying

貪得無厭、不斷購買的人就是我們，

and we are the ones doing the throwing away.

丟棄物品的人也是我們。

And with that, there is so much power and opportunity for us

因此，我們有很大的力量 和機會，可以同心協力

to collectively move ourselves away from a culture

遠離輕易丟棄購買物品的文化，

in which what we buy is easily thrown away

邁向另一種文化， 讓我們購買的東西更被愛惜，

and instead move us to a culture

in which what we buy is loved and valued more.

更被珍視。

I've just been talking about clothing today,

今天我一直在談衣服，

but really I could be talking about anything

但主題可以換成任何東西，

as our problems of overconsumption and waste go far beyond

因為過度消費和浪費的問題 遠遠不只服裝產業。

just the clothing industry.

We need to buy less stuff

我們需要少買些東西，

and we need to look after what we buy.

並且需要照料我們買的東西。

It will mean less global waste,

這就意味著，全球浪費 和全球生產會減少，

less global production and a reduced negative impact on this planet.

對地球的負面影響也會減少。

Valuing the things that we own is a climate solution.

珍視我們擁有的東西 就是一種氣候解決方案。

So next time you buy something --

所以下次你買東西的時候——

(Applause)

（掌聲）

So next time you buy something,

所以下次你買東西的時候，

maybe it's a pair of jeans for a trip to Copenhagen,

也許是為了哥本哈根的旅行 而買的一條牛仔褲，

or maybe you're in a market in Sierra Leone

或者是在獅子山的市場裡 碰巧看見的一件黃色洋裝，

and you come across a yellow dress,

I want you to think "Do I need this?"

這時候我希望你能想想： 「我需要這個嗎？」

"What has it taken for this item to get here to me in my hands?"

「為了讓這件物品到這裡到我手裡， 背後的代價是什麼？」

"What story can I create alongside this item?"

「帶著這件物品， 我能創造出什麼故事？」

And "Will I really, truly value it?"

以及「我會真正好好珍視它嗎？」

Thank you.

謝謝。

(Cheers and applause)

（歡呼聲及掌聲）