How to Fix Fashion and Protect the Planet | Amy Powney | TED

翻译人员: Maple Dilidili 校对人员: suya f.

I was determined to be a designer. A fashion designer.

我下定决心要成为一名设计师, 一位时装设计师。

My career was built off my childhood happy place

我的职业生涯起源于 我童年时期

of crafting with my mother,

和妈妈一起做手工 的快乐时光。

and I dreamt of unleashing my creativity

我梦想着在一个 引领潮流，时尚奢华行业中

in an industry that was borne on style and trends and luxury.

凭借自己的创造力大放异彩。

It was a contradiction to my own childhood of hand-me-downs and no logos,

与之相反，我的童年里充斥着 二手转赠的以及没有品牌的衣服，

often teased by my peers.

经常被同龄人嘲笑。

I grew up in the north of England, off grid.

我在英格兰部长大， 远离现代城市设施。

My parents worked as local food farmers,

我的父母是当地种粮食的农民，

and I had a real innate understanding of where things came from.

我对万物萌生有着 与生俱来的理解。

We were the bottom of the food chain.

我们处于食物链的底层，

We all worked as farmers,

我们都是从事耕种的农民。

and I watched our small wind turbine

我亲眼目睹了 我们的小型风力涡轮机

turn natural resources into energy firsthand.

将自然资源转化为能源。

It did also mean if it wasn't windy, I couldn't watch TV.

这也意味着如果不刮风， 我就无法看电视。

Getting into my dream industry.

进入我梦寐以求的行业。

I'm a very inquisitive person, so I decided to pick away at the seams.

我是一个非常有好奇心的人， 所以我决定刨根问底。

And so six years ago, as the creative director of Mother of Pearl,

六年前，

作为 Mother of Pearl 的创意总监，

I embarked on a mission

我开始为我的品牌

to make a fully sustainable collection for my brand.

打造一个完全可持续的系列。

I didn't really know what that meant,

我其实不知道这意味着什么，

so I journeyed from field to finished product,

所以我的设计之旅 从田间地头到终极成品，

emotionally engaging with the people and the planet,

与人们和地球真诚互动，

picking away the chains, linking them back together.

重拾关系链条， 将它们重新联系在一起。

We all get the notion of farm to table, right?

我们都明白 “从农场到餐桌” 的概念，对吧？

We understand where our fresh produce comes from.

我们了解新鲜农产品 从哪里来。

It's written on the packet

包装上注明产地，

and also from point of harvest to the final product,

并且从收获到终极产品，

it kind of looks the same.

看起来差不多。

But what about field to fashion?

但是时尚领域又是怎样的呢？

Fashion is also born of natural resources.

时尚也来源于自然资源。

Your clothes come from either an worm, an animal,

你的衣服要么 来自蠕虫、动物、

agriculture, forestry or fossil fuels.

农业、森林或化石燃料。

Without worms, there is no silk, no sheep, there's no wool.

没有蠕虫，就没有丝绸， 没有绵羊，就没有羊毛。

Without agriculture, there’s no cotton, no trees, no viscose.

没有农业，就没有棉花， 没有树木，就没有粘胶纤维。

And polyester, which is the most widely used fabric of all,

而聚酯是所有面料中 使用最广的一种材料，

because it’s cheap,

因为它很便宜，

comes from fossil fuels, is made of crude oil,

来自化石燃料， 它是由原油制成的，

which is the same oil that you put into your car,

就是你给汽车加的同一种油，

the same fuel you put into your car.

给汽车加的燃料是同一种物质。

When we talk about climate change, we talk about the big stuff.

当我们谈论气候变化时， 我们谈论的都是大事。

We talk about aviation, travel, shipping, logistics,

我们谈论航空、旅行、 航运、物流、

agriculture, industrialization,

农业、工业化、

plastic pollution, fossil fuels.

塑料污染、化石燃料。

But this is where your clothes come from, and they are playing their part.

但这就是你的衣服的来源， 他们都在其中发挥作用。

Take a polyester dress, for instance.

以涤纶连衣裙为例。

It is both fossil fuel

它是化石燃料

and plastic pollution combined.

和塑料污染的结合。

When it's made,

当它制造出来时，

it contributes to climate change in its industrial processing.

它的加工生产过程 助长了气候变化。

When it's washed, it releases microplastics into the ocean,

当它被洗涤时， 会释放塑料微粒进入海洋，

into the food chain, into us.

进入食物链、进入我们体内。

When you throw it away, it ends up in landfill,

当你把它扔掉时， 它会进入垃圾填埋场，

and in landfill, it takes hundreds of years to degrade.

而在垃圾填埋场中， 它需要数百年才能降解。

It's no different than your plastic packaging,

它和你的塑料包装 没什么不同，

but it does give trashy dressing a whole new meaning.

但它确实赋予了垃圾服饰 一个全新的含义。

(Laughter)

（笑声）

Thank you.

谢谢。

(Laughter)

（笑声）

OK, so how did we get here?

好吧，那么我们是怎么走到这一步的？

We buy three times as many clothes as we did in 1980

我们买的衣服数量 是1980年的三倍，

穿的时间是1980年的一半。

and wear them for half as long.

Your grandmother would have mended her clothes,

你的祖母 会修补她的衣服，

but now three out of five end up in landfill

但现在五分之三的衣物 在购买后的第一年内

within the first year of purchase.

内就进入了垃圾填埋场。

It changed within one generation,

一代人之内就发生了 如此变化，

and it's set to increase by 62 percent by 2030.

并且按照趋势到2030年 还会增长62%。

This is one of the biggest landfills.

这是最大的垃圾填埋场之一。

This is in Chile, and it can now be seen from space.

这个填埋场在智利， 现在大到可以从太空看到了。

It's mostly also made up of unused and unsold clothing.

它也主要由未使用 和未售出的衣服组成。

So mass industrialization

因此，大规模工业化

and a linear production model of global capitalism

和全球资本主义 的线性生产模式

gave birth to the notion that we could and should have it all faster and cheaper,

催生出了这样的观念，即我们可以 且应该更快、更便宜地拥有一切，

which means we've lost connection to our clothes.

这意味着我们已经失去了 与衣服的联结。

We do not know or seem to care where they come from.

我们不知道也不在乎 它们来自哪里。

And when I say we, I mean all of us that wear clothes,

当我说我们时， 我是指我们所有穿衣服的人，

还有制造衣服的品牌。

but also the brands that make them.

When you look in your label of your clothing,

当你查看衣服的标签时，

it will tell you where it was manufactured,

它会告诉你它的工业产地，

but it doesn't tell you how it was spun, woven, dyed, finished.

但它不会告诉你它是如何纺纱、 编织、染色、完成的。

Also, it doesn't tell you about the 3.4 billion people

此外，它也没有告诉你

在该行业工作的34亿人，

that work in the industry,

70 percent of which are female,

70％是女性，

often invisible,

通常是不被看见的，

and for the most part not paid a living wage.

而且大多数人 没有支付最低生活工资。

In fashion, we love to talk about equality, feminism,

在时尚领域，我们喜欢谈论 平等、女权主义、

diversity, empowerment.

多样性、赋权。

We celebrate the celebrities and the influencers that wear our designs,

我们庆祝穿着我们定制服装的 名人和有影响力的人，

and yet we don't talk about the women that make them.

但我们不谈论 制作这些定制服装的女性。

We treat them just like that polyester dress,

我们对待她们就像对待 那条涤纶连衣裙一样，

disposable and cheap.

一次性且便宜。

And in that search for that cheap supply chain

在寻找廉价的供应链

and cheap materials,

和廉价材料的过程中，

你所穿的华服，

your garments here,

one of your garments today, that you're wearing,

今天穿在你身上的华服， 你众多服饰中的一件，

could have traveled through five different countries,

可能经历过五个不同的国家，

and up to 20 different processes along the way.

一路上经过多达20个 不同的流程。

Chances are your outfit is better traveled than you are,

很可能你的衣服 比你去过的地方都多，

and your wardrobes most definitely are.

而且你的衣橱总和起来 肯定是这样。

So,

所以，

we have to choose ethics, too.

我们也必须选择道德。

But how do we do this?

但是我们该怎么做呢？

Fashion is borne on buying more, shopping more, consuming more.

时尚源于多买、 多购物、多消费。

When I was at design school,

当我在设计学校的时候，

他们只是教我 做出美丽的设计作品，

they just taught me to design something beautiful,

而它是怎么做出来的 几乎是事后才想到的。

and how it was made was almost an afterthought.

但是现在， 已我所了解到的一切，

But now, with everything that I've learned,

我颠覆了整个过程。

I flipped that entire process on its head.

So I start with sustainable, traceable supply chains,

所以，我从可持续、 可溯源的供应链开始，

and I design from there up.

然后从那里开始设计。

Some designers would suggest that was hindering creativity,

一些设计师会认为 这会阻碍创造力的发挥，

but to quote the economist Kate Raworth,

但引用经济学家 凯特·拉沃思 (Kate Raworth) :

"Boundaries unleash potential."

“看似触及边界， 实则潜力无穷。”

Look at what Mozart did with a five-octave piano.

看看莫扎特用五个八度音阶 的钢琴做了什么。

And I would agree.

我同意他的说法。

So with everything I learned, this is what I did for our brand.

因此，用我学到的一切， 我为我的品牌做了这些事情。

I set my non-negotiables.

我设定了不可妥协的底线。

This is the best possible practices of the supply chain.

这是供应链可实行的最佳实践。

For instance, we use natural organic farming practices for our natural fibers

例如，我们使用天然有机 耕作方法来生产天然纤维，

and replacement of synthetics or virgin synthetics like polyester.

并用它取代合成纤维 或聚酯等纯合成纤维。

There's many more, but they are just some of the solutions.

还有很多，但它们只 是其中的一些解决方案。

This was also designed for two reasons.

这也是出于两个原因设计的。

It was designed as a kind of benchmark for my team.

它被作为我的团队的基准。

So we had kind of goals to work to,

从而我们有一些目标 要为之努力，

but it was also to help educate the consumer.

与此同时，这也 有助于教育消费者。

Most online stores, when you shop,

大多数的在线商店， 当你购物时，

you can filter them by size, color, fit.

你可以按尺寸、颜色、 和版型来进行筛选。

But for us, we also let you filter it by attribute or material,

但是对我们来说，我们可以让你 按属性或材料进行筛选，

trying to put ethics and aesthetics in the same conversation.

试图将伦理和美学 容纳在同一个对话之中。

But only once I’d implemented this -- and it took a long time to do it,

但是只有一次我实现了这一点—— 花了我很长的时间，

and we were very proud --

我们感到非常自豪——

但我也意识到，

but what I also realized

is that we just made a better version of an existing system

我们刚刚为 一个已经崩溃的现有系统

which was broken.

做了一个更好的版本。

It's the best of,

这是可以办到的最好版本，

but it's still take, make, use and lose.

但它仍然是 接受、制造、使用和失败。

And so now I realized we have to add another link to that supply chain

所以现在我意识到我们必须 在供应链上再增加一个环节，

and join it all together and create a circular system.

把它们连接在一起， 创建一个循环系统。

And by that I mean so many things.

说到系统，我的意思是 它包含很多事情。

But for an example,

仅仅是一个例子，

if we're going to cut a tree down and we replace it,

如果我们要砍掉一棵树， 然后把它替换掉，

could the replacement add more value back to the forest?

那么替换物能否为森林 增加更多价值？

What about if regenerative and organic farming practices

如果再生和有机的 耕作方式

could become the new normal,

能够成为新常态，

and each picker’s lives nourished along with the soil itself?

每个采摘者的生活与土壤本身 一起得到滋养，会怎么样？

And then new links could be added for every aspect of the business.

由此可以为业务的各个方面 增添新的链接。

What if we looked at profit and loss, for instance?

例如，如果我们 看看盈亏会怎样变化？

What if we turn that into pay it forward?

如果我们把它变成 预付会怎样？

What if we reimagine the concept of success?

如果我们重新构想 成功的概念会怎样？

They say we eat a credit card's worth of plastic

据说我们每周吃掉的塑料微粒

every week with the microplastics.

相当于一张信用卡的塑料。

And when all is said and done,

而且，当一切 都尘埃落定之后，

we won't be able to eat money.

我们也不能吃钱续命。

For me, the answer is very simple.

对我来说，答案很简单。

The very notion of questioning everything is key,

质疑一切的想法 本身就是关键，

and being responsible for my actions as a business leader

作为一个商业领袖 和独立个人

and an individual is key.

对自己的行为负责 是关键所在。

And for those that are willing to not think and rethink,

对于那些主动摈弃 思考和重新考虑的人，

we have to pass legislation.

我们必须通过立法来管制。

On this journey,

在这个过程中，

I didn't think it was very revolutionary

我并不认为想见到 为我贡献衣衫的绵羊

trying to meet my sheep that made my clothes,

是富有革新精神的，

but it turns out it was.

但事实证明确实如此。

Before I knew it, I was on the news,

在我还未觉察到的时候， 我已经上了新闻，

the subject of a documentary,

成为一部纪录片的主题，

writing columns for British "Vogue."

为英国版的《Vogue》 撰写专栏文章。

And that gives me a lot of hope.

这给了我很大的希望。

But fashion is still everything you think.

但是当下的时尚 仍然是你所想象的一切。

It's trends, fast pace, logos, brands.

它是流行趋势、快速更替、 讲究标志、追求品牌。

But to fashion something is to make something.

但是塑造某件事 就是创造一些东西，

And that was where my passion came from.

这就是我的激情的来源。

And what I've learned in this journey is if I'm going to continue to design

在这段旅程中我学到的是，

如果我要继续从事时装设计行业，

and fashion clothing,

我还必须塑造我们的未来，

I must also fashion our future.

The two things come hand in hand.

这两件事是齐头并进的。

Yes, there are technical solutions to this problem, to these problems,

是的，这个问题和这些问题都有 技术性的解决方案，

and I can talk endlessly about them,

我可以无休止地谈论它们，

from biomimicry-based dyes and finishes

从基于仿生的染料和饰面

到再生和回收的纺织品。

to regenerative and recycled textiles.

And it's important. Technology is important.

而且这很重要， 技术很重要。

But the other thing I've learned in this journey

但我在这段旅程中 学到的另一件事是，

is that it's only when we reconnect back to the living world

只有当我们重新 与现实生活相连接，

and look at it in awe and wonder and the respect that it deserves

并以惊奇和赞美的态度看待它， 并给它以应有的尊重时，

will true systemic change happen.

真正的系统性变革才会发生。

And when I talk about the living world, I talk about the people and the planet.

当我谈论现实世界时， 我谈论的是人类和地球。

Box-ticking is greenwashing, and greenwashing is dangerous.

形式主义的做法是“漂绿”而已， 伪装“绿色”形象是危险的。

It's just the medicine to a symptom and not the solution to a problem.

它只是治疗症状的药物， 而不是解决问题的方法。

And fashion absolutely should not cost the Earth.

而且，时尚绝对不应该 让地球付出代价。

Nature designs or fashions the most incredible designs there are.

大自然的鬼斧神工 才是世界上最神奇的设计，

We just simply forgot to look.

我们只是忘记看了。

So my ask:

所以我请求大家：

next time you open your wardrobes,

下次你打开衣柜时，

instead of seeing clothes, brands, logos and perhaps your favorite dress,

与其看到衣服、品牌、徽标， 或者是你最喜欢的裙子，

delve a little bit deeper.

探究更深层次的意义。

Go to Narnia.

去纳尼亚吧。

去看看 那宏大而独特的生态系统，

And instead see the vast and unique ecosystem

that makes each piece individual

它的每件杰作都独一无二，

and its inherent connection to our planet

去感受它与我们 所有生命赖以生存的地球

on which all of our lives depend.

有着怎样的内在联系。

Thank you.

谢谢。

(Applause)

（掌声）