How to Fix Fashion and Protect the Planet | Amy Powney | TED

譯者: Chung Hei Franco Cheng 審譯者: Shelley Tsang 曾雯海

I was determined to be a designer. A fashion designer.

我以前很堅決要成為 設計師，時尚設計師。

My career was built off my childhood happy place

我的職涯是立基在我童年 和母親一起創作的樂園上。

of crafting with my mother,

and I dreamt of unleashing my creativity

我的夢想是到一個 以風格、潮流,，和奢華

in an industry that was borne on style and trends and luxury.

為基礎的行業施展我的創意。

It was a contradiction to my own childhood of hand-me-downs and no logos,

那和我自己的童年相矛盾， 那時我穿著沒品牌的二手衣服，

often teased by my peers.

我常被同儕取笑。

I grew up in the north of England, off grid.

我在英格蘭北部 沒有電力網的地方長大，

My parents worked as local food farmers,

我的父母是當地食物農夫，

and I had a real innate understanding of where things came from.

我生來就知道東西是哪裡來的。

We were the bottom of the food chain.

我們在食物鏈的底部， 我們都是農夫，

We all worked as farmers,

我親眼看著我們的小型風力 發電機將自然資源轉為能源。

and I watched our small wind turbine

turn natural resources into energy firsthand.

It did also mean if it wasn't windy, I couldn't watch TV.

這也意味著如果沒有風， 我就不能看電視。

Getting into my dream industry.

進入我夢想的產業。

I'm a very inquisitive person, so I decided to pick away at the seams.

我是一個非常好奇的人， 所以我決定挖掘其中的奧妙。

And so six years ago, as the creative director of Mother of Pearl,

因此，六年前，

身為「珍珠母」的創意總監，

I embarked on a mission

我開始進行一個使命：為我的品牌 製作一個完全永續的系列。

to make a fully sustainable collection for my brand.

I didn't really know what that meant,

我當時不知道那是什麼意思，

so I journeyed from field to finished product,

所以我從田野走到產品成品，

emotionally engaging with the people and the planet,

和人及地球做情感的互動， 把環節拆開再重新連起來。

picking away the chains, linking them back together.

We all get the notion of farm to table, right?

大家都知道「農田 到餐桌」的概念吧？

We understand where our fresh produce comes from.

我們了解我們的新鮮 農產品來自何處。

都寫在包裝上，且從採收點

It's written on the packet

and also from point of harvest to the final product,

到最終產品，看起來差不多。

it kind of looks the same.

But what about field to fashion?

但是從田野到時尚呢？

Fashion is also born of natural resources.

時尚也是由天然資源產生的。

Your clothes come from either an worm, an animal,

你的衣服可能是來自蟲類、動物、

agriculture, forestry or fossil fuels.

農業、林業，

或化石燃料。

Without worms, there is no silk, no sheep, there's no wool.

沒有蟲就沒有絲， 沒有羊就沒有羊毛。

Without agriculture, there’s no cotton, no trees, no viscose.

沒有農業就沒有棉花， 沒有樹木就沒有黏膠。

And polyester, which is the most widely used fabric of all,

還有聚酯纖維，它是 最廣為使用的織物，

because it’s cheap,

因為它很便宜，

comes from fossil fuels, is made of crude oil,

它來自化石燃料，

是用原油製成的， 和汽車使用的原油一樣，

which is the same oil that you put into your car,

the same fuel you put into your car.

和汽車使用的一樣。。

When we talk about climate change, we talk about the big stuff.

談論氣候變遷時，我們都會 談論很大的議題，比如：

We talk about aviation, travel, shipping, logistics,

航空、旅遊、航運、物流、

agriculture, industrialization,

農業、工業化、

plastic pollution, fossil fuels.

塑料汙染、化石燃料。

But this is where your clothes come from, and they are playing their part.

但這些就是你的衣服的來源， 正在只是在扮演自己的角色。

Take a polyester dress, for instance.

以聚酯洋裝為例。

It is both fossil fuel

它是化石燃料

and plastic pollution combined.

和塑料汙染的結合。

When it's made,

製作這件洋裝的工業加工過程 會促成氣候變遷。

it contributes to climate change in its industrial processing.

When it's washed, it releases microplastics into the ocean,

清洗它的時候，會釋放 微塑料釋放到海洋中，

into the food chain, into us.

進入食物鏈，被我們吃下去。

When you throw it away, it ends up in landfill,

你丟棄它時，它會淪落到掩埋場，

and in landfill, it takes hundreds of years to degrade.

它在掩埋場也要數百年才會分解， 和你的塑料包裝沒兩樣，

It's no different than your plastic packaging,

but it does give trashy dressing a whole new meaning.

但這確讓「垃圾服裝」 有了全新的意義。

(Laughter)

（笑聲）

Thank you.

謝謝。

(Laughter)

（笑聲）

OK, so how did we get here?

那，我們是怎麼走到這一步的？

We buy three times as many clothes as we did in 1980

我們現在購買的衣服量 是 1980 年的三倍，

穿著它們的時間卻減半了。

and wear them for half as long.

Your grandmother would have mended her clothes,

你祖母還會自己修補衣服，

但現在，在掩埋場的衣服 有五分之三才買不到一年。

but now three out of five end up in landfill

within the first year of purchase.

It changed within one generation,

才一個世代就改變了，

and it's set to increase by 62 percent by 2030.

且預計到 2030 年會增加 62％。

This is one of the biggest landfills.

這是最大的掩埋場之一。

This is in Chile, and it can now be seen from space.

位在智利，現在 從太空中都可以看到它。

It's mostly also made up of unused and unsold clothing.

掩埋場裡的主要都是 沒穿過和未售出的衣服。

So mass industrialization

大規模工業化和資本主義的線性 生產模型孕育出了這個觀念：

and a linear production model of global capitalism

gave birth to the notion that we could and should have it all faster and cheaper,

我們可以也應該 更快更便宜地取得衣服。

which means we've lost connection to our clothes.

那意味著我們失去了和衣服的連結。

We do not know or seem to care where they come from.

我們不知道或似乎 不在乎它們來自哪裡。

And when I say we, I mean all of us that wear clothes,

我指的「我們」包括所有 穿衣服的人以及做衣服的品牌。

but also the brands that make them.

When you look in your label of your clothing,

你的衣服上的標籤

it will tell you where it was manufactured,

會告訴你它的製造地， 但不會告訴你它是如何紡織、

but it doesn't tell you how it was spun, woven, dyed, finished.

織造、染色、加工處理的。

Also, it doesn't tell you about the 3.4 billion people

此外，它也不會告訴你 在這個產業工作的三十四億人

that work in the industry,

70 percent of which are female,

有 70% 是女性，

often invisible,

通常不會被看見，

and for the most part not paid a living wage.

且通常拿到的工資 不足以支付生活成本。

In fashion, we love to talk about equality, feminism,

在時尚界我們很愛談 平等、女權主義、

diversity, empowerment.

多元化、賦予能力。

We celebrate the celebrities and the influencers that wear our designs,

我們讚頌穿著我們設計 產品的名人和網紅，

and yet we don't talk about the women that make them.

卻不談論製作它們的女性，

We treat them just like that polyester dress,

我們對待她們就像對待那件 用完就丟的便宜聚酯纖洋裝。

disposable and cheap.

And in that search for that cheap supply chain

在尋找便宜供應鏈 和便宜原物料的過程中，

and cheap materials,

你今天穿的其中一件衣服可能 已經經過了五個不同國家，

your garments here,

one of your garments today, that you're wearing,

could have traveled through five different countries,

這期間還歷經高達 二十個不同的過程。

and up to 20 different processes along the way.

Chances are your outfit is better traveled than you are,

你的服裝走過的旅程可能比你 還豐富，你的衣櫥肯定如此。

and your wardrobes most definitely are.

So,

所以，

we have to choose ethics, too.

我們也必須選擇倫理。

But how do we do this?

但要怎麼做到？時尚的基礎就是 更多購買、更多購物、更多消費。

Fashion is borne on buying more, shopping more, consuming more.

When I was at design school,

設計學校只教我設計美麗的東西， 要如何做出來？以後再想。

they just taught me to design something beautiful,

and how it was made was almost an afterthought.

但現在我用我所學到的一切， 顛覆了整個流程，

But now, with everything that I've learned,

I flipped that entire process on its head.

So I start with sustainable, traceable supply chains,

也就是說我從永續且可追蹤的 供應鏈著手，從那裡開始設計。

and I design from there up.

Some designers would suggest that was hindering creativity,

有些設計師認為 這個做法會阻礙創意，

but to quote the economist Kate Raworth,

但，引用經濟學家 凱特‧拉沃斯的話：

"Boundaries unleash potential."

「邊界釋放潛力。」

Look at what Mozart did with a five-octave piano.

看看莫札特用五個八度音的 鋼琴創作了什麼。

And I would agree.

我也認同。

So with everything I learned, this is what I did for our brand.

用我所學的一切，我為我們的品牌 做了這些：設定不可妥協的事項。

I set my non-negotiables.

This is the best possible practices of the supply chain.

這是供應鏈的最佳做法。

For instance, we use natural organic farming practices for our natural fibers

例如，我們的天然纖維 是使用自然有機的耕作方式，

and replacement of synthetics or virgin synthetics like polyester.

也使用合成纖維的替代品 或聚酯纖維等新合成原料。

There's many more, but they are just some of the solutions.

上述只是一部分的 解決方案，還有更多。

This was also designed for two reasons.

這樣設計的理由有二： 它被設計來當作

It was designed as a kind of benchmark for my team.

我團隊的參考基準， 讓我們有個目標可以努力。

So we had kind of goals to work to,

but it was also to help educate the consumer.

它也能協助教育消費者。

Most online stores, when you shop,

在大部分線上商店購物時，你都能 依尺寸、顏色、版型來篩選產品。

you can filter them by size, color, fit.

But for us, we also let you filter it by attribute or material,

但對於我們來說，我們還讓你 根據屬性或材料來篩選。

trying to put ethics and aesthetics in the same conversation.

試圖讓倫理和美感 能被同時拿出來談。

But only once I’d implemented this -- and it took a long time to do it,

但這個功能我只導入了一次—— 花了很長的時間才完成，

and we were very proud --

我們非常驕傲——

但我也了解到，我們只是 把已經有問題的既有系統

but what I also realized

is that we just made a better version of an existing system

變成好一點的版本。

which was broken.

It's the best of,

它是最好的版本，但模式仍是 「取得、製造、使用、丟棄」。

but it's still take, make, use and lose.

And so now I realized we have to add another link to that supply chain

所以現在我明白了我們 得在供應鏈中再加一環，

將一切整合起來， 創造一個循環系統。

and join it all together and create a circular system.

And by that I mean so many things.

我的意思很廣泛，但，舉個例子， 如果我們要砍掉一棵樹，

But for an example,

if we're going to cut a tree down and we replace it,

它的取替品是否能 為森林增加更多價值？

could the replacement add more value back to the forest?

What about if regenerative and organic farming practices

如果再生和有機耕作的 做法能成為新的常態，

could become the new normal,

and each picker’s lives nourished along with the soil itself?

每位採摘者的生活 和土壤本身一起得到滋養呢？

And then new links could be added for every aspect of the business.

那麼這個事業的每個面向 都可以增添新的環節。

What if we looked at profit and loss, for instance?

比如，如果我們去看利潤和損失呢？

What if we turn that into pay it forward?

如果我們將它轉變成 向外傳遞分享呢？

What if we reimagine the concept of success?

如果我們重新想像成功的觀念呢？

They say we eat a credit card's worth of plastic

據說我們每個吃進的微塑料量 等同一張信用卡的塑料量。

every week with the microplastics.

And when all is said and done,

一切都說完成後，我

we won't be able to eat money.

們將無法吃錢。

For me, the answer is very simple.

對我來說，答案非常簡單。

The very notion of questioning everything is key,

質疑一切 的概念是關鍵，

and being responsible for my actions as a business leader

對我作為企業領袖 和個人的行

and an individual is key.

為負責是關鍵。

And for those that are willing to not think and rethink,

對於那些願意不思考 和重新思考的人，我

we have to pass legislation.

們必須通過立法。

On this journey,

在這次旅程

I didn't think it was very revolutionary

中，我不覺得遇見我製作

trying to meet my sheep that made my clothes,

衣服的綿羊 是非常革命性的，

but it turns out it was.

但事實證明是如此。

Before I knew it, I was on the news,

在我不知道之前，我在新聞上，是

the subject of a documentary,

紀錄片的主題，為

writing columns for British "Vogue."

英國《Vogue》撰寫專欄。

And that gives me a lot of hope.

這給了我很多希望。

But fashion is still everything you think.

但時尚仍然是你想到的一切。

It's trends, fast pace, logos, brands.

這是趨勢，快速的步伐，徽標，品牌。

But to fashion something is to make something.

但是製作一些東西 就是製作一些東西。

And that was where my passion came from.

這就是我的熱情來源。

And what I've learned in this journey is if I'm going to continue to design

我在這段旅程中學到的是，

and fashion clothing,

如果我要繼續設計和時尚服裝，

I must also fashion our future.

我也必須塑造我們的未來。

The two things come hand in hand.

這兩件事情緊密相互交織。

Yes, there are technical solutions to this problem, to these problems,

是的，這個問題和這些問題 都有技術解決方案，

and I can talk endlessly about them,

我可以不斷地談論它們，

from biomimicry-based dyes and finishes

從基於生物化學的染料和表面處理

to regenerative and recycled textiles.

到再生和回收紡織品。

And it's important. Technology is important.

而且這很重要。 技術很重要。

But the other thing I've learned in this journey

但是，我在這次旅程中學到的另一件事是，

is that it's only when we reconnect back to the living world

只有當我們重新連接到生活世界，

and look at it in awe and wonder and the respect that it deserves

並以驚喜和驚奇觀以及值得的尊重時，

will true systemic change happen.

才能發生真正的系統性變化。

And when I talk about the living world, I talk about the people and the planet.

當我談論生活的世界時， 我談論人類和地球。

Box-ticking is greenwashing, and greenwashing is dangerous.

打勾是綠色洗滌，綠化清洗是危 險的。

It's just the medicine to a symptom and not the solution to a problem.

它只是治療症狀的藥物， 而不是解決問題的解決方案。

And fashion absolutely should not cost the Earth.

而時尚絕對 不應該花費地球。

Nature designs or fashions the most incredible designs there are.

大自然設計或時尚 最令人難以置信的設計。

We just simply forgot to look.

我們只是忘了看

So my ask:

所以我問：

next time you open your wardrobes,

下次您打開衣櫃時，

instead of seeing clothes, brands, logos and perhaps your favorite dress,

而不是看到衣服，品牌，徽標 和也許您最喜歡的禮服，

delve a little bit deeper.

請深入研究一下。

Go to Narnia.

去納尼亞

And instead see the vast and unique ecosystem

而反之，看看 使每件作品都獨一無二的

that makes each piece individual

廣闊而獨特的生態系統

and its inherent connection to our planet

以及它與我們所有生命

on which all of our lives depend.

都依賴的地球的固有聯繫。

Thank you.

謝謝。

(Applause)

（掌聲）