The radical beauty of Africa, in portraits | Iké Udé

27,725 views ・ 2018-04-03

TED


請雙擊下方英文字幕播放視頻。

譯者: Lilian Chiu 審譯者: Helen Chang
00:12
In 1996, I was commissioned by the Guggenheim Museum
0
12802
5348
1996 年,古根漢美術館委託我
00:18
to execute a large body of work called "Uses of Evidence."
1
18174
6215
進行一項大型的作品, 叫做《證據的使用》。
00:25
It was a cube --
2
25370
1524
它是一個立方體,
00:27
a very well large cube, at that.
3
27696
2301
非常大的立方體。
00:30
Each side had a window
4
30759
1770
每一面都有一扇窗,
00:32
in order for the spectators to view the interior of the structure.
5
32553
4400
讓觀眾可以看到結構的內部。
00:37
The exterior of the structure was a collage of Africa and Africans
6
37680
6365
結構的外部,是非洲 和非洲人的拼貼,
00:44
as portrayed in the Western media and literature.
7
44069
3902
且呈現的是西方媒體 和文獻中描述的形象。
00:48
A look through the windows revealed a sharp contrast:
8
48627
6018
透過窗戶,則會看到強烈的對比:
00:55
within the cubes are tranquil, civilized, domestic images
9
55590
6261
在立方體內的影像,是寧靜的、 文明的、家庭的影像,
01:01
of African family members, friends
10
61875
4842
人物是非洲家庭成員、朋友,
01:07
and Nigerian professionals,
11
67585
1992
還有奈及利亞專業人士,
01:09
ranging from writers, poets, fashion designers, etc.
12
69601
6341
作家、詩人、時尚設計師等等都有。
01:17
The thing is,
13
77112
1574
重點是,
01:19
both the exterior and the interior images are quite true.
14
79829
5065
外在和內在的影像都是十分真實的。
01:25
But the images captured by Western media
15
85581
6366
但西方媒體報導中的影像
01:31
overwhelmingly depict Africans as basically primitive at best,
16
91971
6925
全都把非洲人描繪成 頂多像原始人那樣,
01:39
or barely distinguishable from the African animals.
17
99442
4632
或是和非洲動物沒什麼差別。
01:44
Not much has changed, I'm afraid, since 1996,
18
104800
5221
恐怕自從我於 1996 年 做了這作品之後,
01:50
when I executed this work.
19
110045
3560
仍然沒有多少改變。
01:56
I began my professional photography practice in 1994,
20
116219
4767
我從 1994 年開始做職業攝影,
02:01
but my passion and enthusiasm for photography
21
121812
4857
但我對攝影的熱情和熱愛,
02:06
goes back to childhood,
22
126693
2777
從小時候就有了,
02:10
when my parents arranged for us to be photographed
23
130109
5181
當時我父母安排我們合照,
02:15
by a professional photographer
24
135314
2890
由一位職業攝影師拍攝,
02:18
on almost a monthly basis.
25
138228
2397
且幾乎每個月都拍。
02:21
It was also an opportunity for my siblings to dress up in our latest gear,
26
141127
6992
那也是個機會,讓我的 兄弟姐妹們可以穿上
裁縫師為我們做的最新裝扮。
02:28
made by our tailor.
27
148639
1554
02:30
Later, when I was in boarding school,
28
150911
2912
後來,當我進入寄宿學校,
02:33
my friends and I bought Polaroid cameras,
29
153847
3645
我朋友和我買了拍立得相機,
02:38
and then I began to experiment with self-portraiture,
30
158323
4270
接著我就開始實驗自我人像攝影,
02:42
or what I would call
31
162617
1600
我則將之稱為
02:45
"proto-selfie auto-portraits."
32
165566
3039
「頭號自拍肖像」。
02:48
(Laughter)
33
168629
1850
(笑聲)
02:50
"Cover Girl 1994" was my first major work
34
170503
4404
《封面女郎 1994》 是我的第一件大作,
02:54
that was critically well received in the US and Europe
35
174931
5001
在美國和歐洲都得到好評,
02:59
and quite instantly became a part of the school anthologies
36
179956
6113
很快,它就變成了 學校選集的一部分,
03:06
at universities and colleges.
37
186093
2118
大專院校都看得到。
03:08
With the "Cover Girl" series,
38
188235
2207
有了《封面女郎》系列,
03:10
I wanted to reimagine the magazine cover
39
190466
4373
我想要重新思考雜誌的封面,
03:14
with imagery totally unexpected, yet profoundly reasonable.
40
194863
6468
用完全沒被預期到 卻又非常合理的圖像。
03:21
The "Cover Girl" series proposed a different way
41
201355
4766
《封面女郎》系列提出了 一種不同的方式,
03:26
the African can be represented in a more complex manner.
42
206145
6024
用比較複雜的手法 將非洲人描繪出來。
03:33
Like "Cover Girl," the "Sartorial Anarchy" series
43
213455
3705
如同《封面女郎》, 《男裝無秩序》系列
03:38
is made up of self-portraits.
44
218104
3386
也是用自拍肖像做成。
03:42
It is an ongoing body of work, started in 2010.
45
222521
4092
這作品從 2010 年就開始, 目前還在進行當中。
03:47
In each image, I married disparate costumes
46
227339
6255
在每張影像中,我都 結合了迥然不同的服裝,
03:53
from widely diverse traditions, countries and time frames.
47
233618
6665
來自廣泛多樣的 傳統、國家,以及時期。
04:00
And in mixing eras, cultures,
48
240307
4548
透過混合不同的時代及文化,
04:04
I was able to bring harmony, as it were,
49
244879
3824
可以說,我得以將和諧感帶到
04:08
to their similarly irreconcilable differences.
50
248727
3679
它們看似水火不容的差異上。
04:12
These differences became a source
51
252950
3595
這些差異變成了一個源頭,
04:16
of inspired artistic celebration.
52
256569
6135
富有靈感之藝術讚頌的源頭。
04:23
For example,
53
263822
1384
比如,
04:26
in "Sartorial Anarchy #4,"
54
266386
2881
在《男裝無秩序 #4》,
04:29
I mixed a boater hat,
55
269291
2738
我混合了一頂平頂硬草帽,
04:32
inspired by the traditional Eton-Oxford College Boat Race,
56
272053
6596
靈感來自傳統的伊頓-牛津大學船賽,
04:38
with a green Afghan traditional coat
57
278673
4210
加上綠色的阿富汗傳統外套,
04:42
and an American Boy Scout shirt --
58
282907
3789
以及美國童子軍上衣——
04:46
a culture clash that works.
59
286720
2252
這是有效的文化衝突。
04:50
In "Sartorial Anarchy #5,"
60
290403
2629
在《男裝無秩序 #5》,
04:53
I wore a macaroni wig,
61
293905
2632
我戴著通心麵假髮,
04:56
inspired by eighteenth-century macaroni headgear from England.
62
296561
5568
靈感來自十八世紀 從英格蘭來的通心麵髮飾。
05:02
This was paired with a British Norfolk jacket,
63
302609
4501
它搭配的是英國諾福克外套、
05:07
Yoruba Nigerian trousers,
64
307903
2964
優魯巴奈及利亞褲子,
05:11
and, improbably, a South African Zulu fighting stick.
65
311919
4628
還有最不可能的: 南非祖魯的打鬥用木棍。
05:17
All harmoniously coexist on one body.
66
317575
3684
都很和諧地共存在一個身體上。
05:22
And with "Sartorial Anarchy," I began to invest more
67
322744
4627
有了《男裝無秩序》, 我便開始投資更多
05:27
into the organization of my pictures.
68
327395
3130
在我照片中的組織上。
05:31
I also began to investigate the vast possibilities of color:
69
331149
5621
我也開始研究顏色的廣大可能性:
05:38
its emotional values,
70
338187
1736
它的情緒價值、
05:40
psychological impulse,
71
340693
1764
心理衝動、
05:43
poetic allure
72
343156
1515
詩意誘惑,
05:45
and a boundless capacity beyond the realm of meaning and logic.
73
345267
6966
以及在意義與邏輯領域 之外的無限空間。
05:52
Now, enter Nollywood.
74
352890
1837
現在,進到奈萊塢。
05:55
In October of 2014,
75
355168
2695
2014 年 10 月,
05:57
I returned to Lagos, Nigeria, after over three decades away
76
357887
5420
我在 30 年之後重返 奈及利亞的拉哥斯,
06:03
and took photographs of 64 Nollywood personalities.
77
363331
4533
為 64 位奈萊塢名人拍照。
06:08
I captured a cross section of the industry,
78
368220
4833
我捕捉到了這個產業的典型,
06:13
as well as the next generation of rising stars.
79
373844
4608
以及下一個世代的新興之星。
06:19
Nollywood is the first time that you have a school of African filmmakers
80
379559
5844
奈萊塢是第一間有非洲製片人學校,
06:25
truly, truly, profoundly in charge of telling African stories.
81
385427
6301
真正是在負責訴說非洲的故事。
06:32
In their varied movies --
82
392157
2280
在他們各式各樣的電影中——
06:34
from romantic movies, horror films, gangster movies to action movies --
83
394461
6506
從愛情片、恐怖片、 黑幫片,到動作片——
06:41
one sees Nigerians portrayed with many layers of complexities.
84
401491
6070
都能夠看到對奈及利亞人的描繪 有著多層次的複雜度。
06:47
All the Nigerian, or "Naija," archetypes, if you allow, are there --
85
407950
6426
所有奈及利亞人,或在電影中 稱為「Naija」的原型全都在,
06:55
from the divvers, the "Shakara," the coquette,
86
415264
5084
從愚蠢的人、炫耀者、調情女子、
07:00
the gangsters, the rich, the corrupt politicians,
87
420372
4873
黑幫分子、有錢人、腐敗政客、
07:05
the whore, the pimp --
88
425269
1912
妓女、皮條客——
07:07
all in their swagger.
89
427205
1477
通通都神氣活現。
07:09
And of course, you have the lowlifes and the losers, too,
90
429149
3809
當然,也有下層階級的人和魯蛇,
07:12
all vividly portrayed.
91
432982
2329
全都鮮明地刻劃出來。
07:16
Nollywood is Africa's mirror par excellence.
92
436561
3833
奈萊塢是非洲出類拔萃之鏡。
07:21
Typically, I direct all of my portraits,
93
441990
3097
通常我指導所有的拍照,
07:25
from the way my subject conducts his or her head,
94
445658
4098
如何擺放攝影對象的頭、
07:30
the way the neck is tilted,
95
450776
2273
脖子傾斜的方式、
07:33
the expression of the fingers,
96
453871
2266
手指的表現、
07:36
the gestures of the hands,
97
456728
2003
手的姿勢、
07:39
to the gaze
98
459533
1312
眼神的凝視,
07:41
and overall bearing and countenance.
99
461411
2326
以及整體的體態和面容。
07:44
Let me describe some of the photographs for you.
100
464069
2935
讓我為各位描述其中一些照片。
07:47
Genevieve Nnaji.
101
467028
1712
格內維芙內吉,
07:49
She is the reigning queen of Nollywood.
102
469228
2211
她是奈萊塢現任的皇后。
07:51
Here, I was quoting from the grand, Pharaonic African cultures
103
471876
5792
在這裡,我引用的是偉大、 有代表性的非洲文化,
07:57
of the Nile Valley civilizations;
104
477692
2663
來自尼羅河流域的文明,
08:00
namely, Egypt, Sudan and Ethiopia,
105
480379
3499
也就是埃及、蘇丹,以及衣索比亞,
08:03
so as to imbue her with a stately, ironic, calm grandeur.
106
483902
6582
讓她充滿一種莊重、 諷刺、平靜的華麗。
08:11
Taiwo Ajai-Lycett is the grande dame of Nollywood.
107
491014
5599
泰沃阿傑莉錫特是奈萊塢的貴婦人。
08:17
Every aspect of her being commands attention.
108
497283
5254
她存在的每一個面向都吸引目光。
08:23
So I posed her with her back to the audience.
109
503085
4171
所以,我幫她設計背向觀眾。
08:27
Her face turned to meet us with a redoubtable gaze.
110
507990
5388
她的臉轉過來,用令人 敬畏的凝視看著我們。
08:34
She doesn't need to seek our approval.
111
514276
3038
她不用尋求我們的同意。
08:38
She's all that.
112
518157
1272
她就是那樣。
08:40
Sadiq Daba.
113
520458
1150
沙迪克達巴。
08:42
There was an unspoken authoritarian and imperial bearing
114
522592
5111
見到達巴時,他會散發 一種不言而喻的
08:47
that Sadiq Daba exudes upon meeting him.
115
527727
4076
權力主義且宏大的氣度。
08:52
In this portrait, he simply sat
116
532522
4133
在這張照片中,他只是坐著,
08:57
and allowed his massive, massive Nigerian caftan
117
537847
5532
讓他那件厚重、有腰帶的 長袖奈及利亞服飾
09:03
to signal his status.
118
543403
2031
來傳達他的地位。
09:06
Quite an accomplishment.
119
546815
1600
很不簡單的成就。
09:09
Belinda Effah.
120
549609
1150
貝琳達埃芙法。
09:11
Belinda Effah's portrait allowed me to indulge my passion for color,
121
551521
4412
貝琳達埃芙法的照片 讓我能滿足對顏色的熱情,
09:15
dressed in a long, fitted blue dress that emphasizes her curves,
122
555957
6604
她穿著很長、很合身的 藍色禮服,強調她的曲線,
09:22
seated on an upholstered green velvet bench.
123
562585
4219
坐在有裝上墊的綠色絲絨長凳上。
09:26
I gamely employed the multicolored carpet
124
566828
4034
我很大膽地採用了多色的地毯,
09:32
and a vibrant color,
125
572106
2300
以及明亮的顏色,
09:34
in order to evoke the splendor of the multicolored painted bunting bird.
126
574430
6994
以帶出多色巫屬鳴鳥的光彩。
09:41
Everything was designed to harmonize the figure of Belinda within the frame.
127
581950
6826
所有的設計,目的都是要讓 貝琳達和整個畫面能夠很和諧。
09:49
Monalisa Chinda is, shall we say,
128
589360
4119
蒙娜莉莎秦達可以說是
09:53
the epitome of the luxe existence and lifestyle.
129
593503
4265
奢侈存在和生活風格的縮影。
09:57
Her picture, or portrait, pretty much speaks for itself.
130
597792
4182
她的照片,或肖像, 無需說明就不言自喻。
10:02
Alexx Ekubo is a sharp study
131
602919
4277
艾力克斯伊庫柏讓我敏銳地探究了
10:07
in simplified elegance and dignity
132
607220
3444
簡化的高雅和尊嚴,
10:11
and a harmony in blue and white, as well.
133
611387
3881
還有藍與白的和諧。
10:16
Enyinna Nwigwe is a Nollywood matinee idol.
134
616371
3876
艾因納維格威是 奈萊塢的日場表演偶像。
10:20
There is whiff of the rake about him,
135
620853
5105
他有一種富家蕩浪子的味道,
10:25
and that gives him an enchanting edge.
136
625982
2920
那讓他有迷人的優勢。
10:29
That's what I felt when I designed and organized the portrait.
137
629239
4943
那是我設計和組織肖像時的感受。
10:34
Now, Nollywood is a new phase of Africa.
138
634776
4143
奈萊塢是非洲的新階段。
10:39
It is modern, post-modern,
139
639856
4348
它是現代的、後現代的、
10:44
meta-modern, bold
140
644228
3111
超現代的、大膽的、
10:47
sexy, shrewd
141
647363
2881
性感的、機靈的,
10:50
and with a contagious attitude worth catching.
142
650268
5119
且有一種有感染力的態度, 很值得去捕捉。
10:55
As the finale of the project,
143
655411
2682
做為這計畫的壓軸,
10:58
I assembled the Nollywood stars
144
658117
3349
我把奈萊塢的明星組合起來,
11:01
into a group grand portrait of 64 subjects,
145
661490
5278
成為 64 個人物的大形肖像,
11:06
called "The School of Nollywood,"
146
666792
3353
取名為《奈萊塢學院》,
11:10
which was inspired by Rafael's "School of Athens,"
147
670704
5046
靈感來自於拉斐爾的《雅典學院》,
11:15
that was done circa 1509.
148
675774
3850
那是他大約 1509 年的作品。
11:20
It is at the Vatican.
149
680490
1400
現在在梵蒂岡。
11:22
This grand group portrait
150
682895
2946
這幅宏偉的團體肖像,
11:25
is the exact same size as Rafael's "School of Athens."
151
685865
5450
尺寸和拉斐爾的 《雅典學院》完全一樣。
11:31
It measures roughly 27 feet in width
152
691339
4992
大約寬 27 英尺,
11:36
by six and a half feet in height.
153
696355
3416
高 6.5 英尺。
11:40
Nollywood also exemplifies a type of modernity
154
700291
4000
奈萊塢也算是現代的例子,
11:44
never before seen in Africa.
155
704315
1866
是非洲以前不曾有過的。
11:47
Think of it:
156
707029
1150
想想看:
11:48
there has never been anything so ubiquitous
157
708760
4351
從來沒有任何東西是如此無所不在,
11:53
with such iconic optics
158
713135
2327
有著如些代表性的光學,
11:56
to come out of Africa
159
716097
1520
是出自非洲的,
11:57
since the Nile Valley civilizations
160
717641
4452
從埃及、蘇丹、衣索比亞這些
12:02
of Egypt, Sudan, Ethiopia.
161
722117
4112
尼羅河流域文明出現以來就沒見過。
12:07
Outside of Nollywood,
162
727553
1826
在奈萊塢之外,
12:09
the image of Africa remains frozen in the old "National Geographic" mode
163
729403
6325
非洲的形象仍然停留在 老式的「國家地理頻道」模式
12:15
and safari perspective.
164
735752
1674
以及狩獵角度。
12:18
But as Africans continue to step and see themselves portrayed by Nollywood
165
738703
6897
但,隨著非洲人持續前進, 並看見奈萊塢用多樣化
12:25
in their varied and fantastic complexities,
166
745624
4136
且了不起的複雜性來描繪自己,
12:29
they will, in turn, propagate and perpetuate
167
749784
3847
他們遲早也會傳播出他們的
12:33
the positive image of themselves.
168
753655
2367
正面形象並讓它永垂不朽。
12:36
This is what Hollywood did and continues to do for the West.
169
756046
4066
好萊塢從過去到現在 一直都在為西方這麼做。
12:40
As shocking as this may be,
170
760625
2000
雖然這可能很讓人震驚,
12:43
it is almost a taboo in the art world
171
763363
3301
但在藝術世界中
以現代架構呈現非洲人 幾乎是一種禁忌。
12:46
to show Africans in a modern framework --
172
766688
3567
12:51
that is to say, as polished, dry-cleaned,
173
771094
4363
也就是說,不把非洲人 以優美、穿乾洗過的衣服、
12:55
manicured, pedicured and coiffed.
174
775481
3738
修過指甲、修過趾甲、 做過頭髮的方式呈現。
12:59
(Applause)
175
779998
4817
(掌聲)
13:04
Part of my job is to keep beautifying Africa for the world,
176
784839
4807
我工作的一部分,是要持續 將非洲美化給這個世界看,
13:10
one portrait at a time.
177
790292
3111
一次一張肖像。
13:13
Thank you.
178
793427
1160
謝謝。
13:14
(Applause)
179
794611
6787
(掌聲)
關於本網站

本網站將向您介紹對學習英語有用的 YouTube 視頻。 您將看到來自世界各地的一流教師教授的英語課程。 雙擊每個視頻頁面上顯示的英文字幕,從那裡播放視頻。 字幕與視頻播放同步滾動。 如果您有任何意見或要求,請使用此聯繫表與我們聯繫。

https://forms.gle/WvT1wiN1qDtmnspy7